Hi, Is there a possibility to dismantle the (12) buttons on the base. Because i spilled soda on it and now some are like glued. I don't know if I can use some alcohol for exemple to clean the inside of the 2 blocks that host the buttons. Thank you
So far the trigger is the only thing that has give me problems. I removed the pin by placing one side on a peice of wood with a hole in it, and tapped the otherside using a small nail with the point removed. It took some moving. Thanks for your time and efforts in producing this guide.
Hey guys! I followed this tip too, to get this rod out, using a mallet and a folded hoodie. Problem is, I broke my joystick in the process (Z axis twisted, no neutral position anymore, can't join the two external parts of the joystick back again). Even if i was holding it, locking it as best has i could, the handle kept moving while i was hammering the rod, which ended up badly. So, as mine is now completely unusable, i recommend that you use a mallet ONLY if you're able to lock the handle of the joystick in place (ask someone to hold it firmly while you hammer the rod out, don't to it alone, 2 arms and 2 hands aren't enough). Don't break it like i did, please! Hope this helps any lad here before trying it!
Well, you can leave out the 'be gentle'. I spend an hour being gentle.. less and less so. At some point I switched to a full sized hammer, I broke my small screwdriver, made a pin from a nail and smacked it with 25x the force of 'gentle'. It finally started to come out just enough for me to crab it with clippers. Now, lets see if the entire thing broke in the process.
Just fixed my 16000m, thanks so much for the videos! My pin was stuck pretty hard and even the hammer method wouldn't work. What did the trick for me was taking another small metal rod and pushing it against the one inside with pliers, basically gently squeezing the rod and the opposite side of the trigger, therefore slowly forcing the stuck rod out.
I fixed mine after someone pointed me at your video several months ago but ended up replacing it with the vkb gladiator premium. The dual triggers and never having to deal with any more nipple of dooms is totally worth it. Not to mention most of the buttons are on the grip instead of the base.
I ended up using a dumber but safer solution: I layed the trigger on its side on the corner of the table, so only the orange part would be in contact with the surface. I added a spacer with a hole in it under it, so the pin could go through (in my case the loop of a pair of scissors). Then I pushed the rod with a small screwdriver. Here's the fun part: my left hand was holding the screwdriver, my right hand was balancing the trigger on the corner of the table. Having no third hand but a hefty cranium, I banged my head on the top of the (rounded) screwdriver and the pin came right out without too much force. Or just get someone to help you out 😅
Haha Haha oh I wish I could have been there to see that! That's using your head! Glad it worked for you... and that you don't now have a brain injury as a result of your industriousness.
i used the small self-tapping screw near the trigger to track the rod out and pull them with pliers. The diameter is perfect and the screw could tap the trigger rod hole and have enough force to track the rod.
Had a major scare trying to hammer it out. Something slipped and the controller was off its axis inside the handle. The square sensor got knocked out of its position on top of the stick and i had to finagle with it to get it back in place, which was tough since the pin never was able to be removed. Thankfully think i got it back in place by bending the two halves apart enough to fiddle with it with some tools and tweezers. The bottom of the square sensor has a nub that points forward that needs to slip into the top of the stem. The good news is, I found I could get a q-tip with solution into it and swabbed the square sensor without having to take off the entire two halves of the joystick! so, if you can't get the pin to come out just carefully bend the two halves apart and poke q-tip in and it'll work fine.
For those that have a pin that is stuck even more than in this video, you can use PB Blaster / WD-40 to lubricate the hole where the pin is resting in. I also had to go to the extreme and use a sharp knife to carve out a portion of the plastic that rests against the pin to reduce the surface area that the pin is making contact with the plastic trigger.
very nice thank you. I used a gunsmith block to position the trigger on something flat with a space under it. I also put the two screws back in the stalk. I am planning to do the hall effect mod and your take down video is superior.
Hi Jay, After researching some other videos, I see that the rudder axis is controlled by a pot. That explains, already, the jitter. Like a dirty volume control causes noisy audio, a bad or dirty pot will cause jitter. You must have gotten some alcohol inside and wiped away the crud. You were very lucky. CAIG Labs sells deoxit for these issues. Or replace the pot with a new one from Thrustmaster (If they'll sell you one.)
Thanks for the comment. I think you're right in that getting some cleaner into the pot is what gets rit of the issue, hence why soaking the cotton wool and dabbling it on top of the pot seems to work for everyone. Cheers 👍
Hello All, Before you go and take it apart, slowly and carefully drill a 1/4" hole about 1/2" below the center switch (below the hat). Insert a plastics safe electronics cleaner nozzle and spray upwards and downwards. It worked for me and spared me the tear down. When you're done put a piece of tape across the hols
I found that the trigger on this stick has significant slack. I use it as my cannon trigger when I play WarThunder, and I miss half my shots because of trigger pull slack. Also, the stick axes have a huge deadzone, and the spring resistance is not gradual. It makes joystick aiming super difficult
Hammering it is a terrible idea. I've been doing it a bit, being careful of not hitting too hard (although it did bend my screwdriver), and I can already tell that there is a lot more sideways play in that trigger than before. The inside piece is really not made to withstand so much force. To make matters worse, the pin has not moved at all. I'm guessing it is bent inside like others have found, which probably means that I'm pulling this trigger quite hard in the heat of the action.
I have the issue for a while now that the slider in the T16000M will only register 50% output when pushing it all the way up, and there doesn't seem to be a way to calibrate it in the windows control panel. Do you know a way to fix this?
I had to set it on the pillow of my bed... and put a sweater under the stick. Before I hit it with the force of Mjolnior only the thunder god could wield... the stick survived, the pin is out. This was a lot harder
Hi Jay, I'm thinking that a small hole, the diameter of an electronics spray cleaner nozzle, could be drilled at a location just in line with the sensor. Spray for 10 seconds, allow for evaporation, and perhaps a teardown is unnecessary. What do you think? Can you tell us whereabouts we might drill that hole? WOuld make a great video too. Thanks Mate, L.G. Of USA
The funny thing about brute force is that if it doesn't work, you aren't using enough. Turns out the pin was bent like another user mentioned in the comments. Serendipitously, though, I have another pin of the exact same dimensions so I'll just replace the bad one with thta.
@@KickstandOptional nice one! So weird that it was bent though. I wonder if that is a manufacturer fault and perhaps why others have been having so much trouble.
![[FR] TUTO réparer le joystick TCA sidestick AIRBUS de Thrustmaster. Réparer l'axe Z des palonniers](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/e0lc5TOjZmQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Main video dealing with entire fix here: ruclips.net/video/gVzhEgHS4bA/видео.html
Hi,
Is there a possibility to dismantle the (12) buttons on the base. Because i spilled soda on it and now some are like glued.
I don't know if I can use some alcohol for exemple to clean the inside of the 2 blocks that host the buttons.
Thank you
So far the trigger is the only thing that has give me problems. I removed the pin by placing one side on a peice of wood with a hole in it, and tapped the otherside using a small nail with the point removed. It took some moving. Thanks for your time and efforts in producing this guide.
A standard toothpick worked for me, if you don't have anything fancy! Just gently tap the end with one of your screwdrivers. Thanks for the guide!
Nice one. That's one strong toothpick!
Hey guys! I followed this tip too, to get this rod out, using a mallet and a folded hoodie. Problem is, I broke my joystick in the process (Z axis twisted, no neutral position anymore, can't join the two external parts of the joystick back again). Even if i was holding it, locking it as best has i could, the handle kept moving while i was hammering the rod, which ended up badly.
So, as mine is now completely unusable, i recommend that you use a mallet ONLY if you're able to lock the handle of the joystick in place (ask someone to hold it firmly while you hammer the rod out, don't to it alone, 2 arms and 2 hands aren't enough). Don't break it like i did, please!
Hope this helps any lad here before trying it!
Hey mate, bummer!! Thanks for sharing the tip with us all.
Well, you can leave out the 'be gentle'. I spend an hour being gentle.. less and less so. At some point I switched to a full sized hammer, I broke my small screwdriver, made a pin from a nail and smacked it with 25x the force of 'gentle'. It finally started to come out just enough for me to crab it with clippers.
Now, lets see if the entire thing broke in the process.
It worked. Don't know how long it will be like this but it stopped pulling to the left like it was before.
Just fixed my 16000m, thanks so much for the videos! My pin was stuck pretty hard and even the hammer method wouldn't work. What did the trick for me was taking another small metal rod and pushing it against the one inside with pliers, basically gently squeezing the rod and the opposite side of the trigger, therefore slowly forcing the stuck rod out.
I fixed mine after someone pointed me at your video several months ago but ended up replacing it with the vkb gladiator premium. The dual triggers and never having to deal with any more nipple of dooms is totally worth it. Not to mention most of the buttons are on the grip instead of the base.
Mine is really jammed in there... YES!. I just got it out. Thanks so much. You have to hit it way harder than I thought.
Yeah you do. So glad it worked for you!
Thanks for this video and the entire fix video. They both worked like a charm.
I ended up using a dumber but safer solution: I layed the trigger on its side on the corner of the table, so only the orange part would be in contact with the surface. I added a spacer with a hole in it under it, so the pin could go through (in my case the loop of a pair of scissors). Then I pushed the rod with a small screwdriver.
Here's the fun part: my left hand was holding the screwdriver, my right hand was balancing the trigger on the corner of the table.
Having no third hand but a hefty cranium, I banged my head on the top of the (rounded) screwdriver and the pin came right out without too much force.
Or just get someone to help you out 😅
Haha Haha oh I wish I could have been there to see that! That's using your head! Glad it worked for you... and that you don't now have a brain injury as a result of your industriousness.
Hilarious!
omg thanks for making me laught during this frustrating tear down.
i used the small self-tapping screw near the trigger to track the rod out and pull them with pliers. The diameter is perfect and the screw could tap the trigger rod hole and have enough force to track the rod.
Had a major scare trying to hammer it out. Something slipped and the controller was off its axis inside the handle. The square sensor got knocked out of its position on top of the stick and i had to finagle with it to get it back in place, which was tough since the pin never was able to be removed. Thankfully think i got it back in place by bending the two halves apart enough to fiddle with it with some tools and tweezers. The bottom of the square sensor has a nub that points forward that needs to slip into the top of the stem. The good news is, I found I could get a q-tip with solution into it and swabbed the square sensor without having to take off the entire two halves of the joystick! so, if you can't get the pin to come out just carefully bend the two halves apart and poke q-tip in and it'll work fine.
For those that have a pin that is stuck even more than in this video, you can use PB Blaster / WD-40 to lubricate the hole where the pin is resting in.
I also had to go to the extreme and use a sharp knife to carve out a portion of the plastic that rests against the pin to reduce the surface area that the pin is making contact with the plastic trigger.
very nice thank you. I used a gunsmith block to position the trigger on something flat with a space under it. I also put the two screws back in the stalk. I am planning to do the hall effect mod and your take down video is superior.
Hi Jay,
After researching some other videos, I see that the rudder axis is controlled by a pot. That explains, already, the jitter. Like a dirty volume control causes noisy audio, a bad or dirty pot will cause jitter. You must have gotten some alcohol inside and wiped away the crud. You were very lucky. CAIG Labs sells deoxit for these issues. Or replace the pot with a new one from Thrustmaster (If they'll sell you one.)
Thanks for the comment. I think you're right in that getting some cleaner into the pot is what gets rit of the issue, hence why soaking the cotton wool and dabbling it on top of the pot seems to work for everyone. Cheers 👍
Hello All,
Before you go and take it apart, slowly and carefully drill a 1/4" hole about 1/2" below the center switch (below the hat). Insert a plastics safe electronics cleaner nozzle and spray upwards and downwards.
It worked for me and spared me the tear down. When you're done put a piece of tape across the hols
Good alternate solution. A few others have suggested this as well and it helps if you ever have to do it again!
Thanks alot :) this and the other guide helped me alot :D
I found that the trigger on this stick has significant slack. I use it as my cannon trigger when I play WarThunder, and I miss half my shots because of trigger pull slack. Also, the stick axes have a huge deadzone, and the spring resistance is not gradual. It makes joystick aiming super difficult
Hammering it is a terrible idea. I've been doing it a bit, being careful of not hitting too hard (although it did bend my screwdriver), and I can already tell that there is a lot more sideways play in that trigger than before. The inside piece is really not made to withstand so much force.
To make matters worse, the pin has not moved at all. I'm guessing it is bent inside like others have found, which probably means that I'm pulling this trigger quite hard in the heat of the action.
I have the issue for a while now that the slider in the T16000M will only register 50% output when pushing it all the way up, and there doesn't seem to be a way to calibrate it in the windows control panel. Do you know a way to fix this?
thanks works like a charm
I had to set it on the pillow of my bed... and put a sweater under the stick. Before I hit it with the force of Mjolnior only the thunder god could wield... the stick survived, the pin is out. This was a lot harder
Hi Jay,
I'm thinking that a small hole, the diameter of an electronics spray cleaner nozzle, could be drilled at a location just in line with the sensor. Spray for 10 seconds, allow for evaporation, and perhaps a teardown is unnecessary. What do you think? Can you tell us whereabouts we might drill that hole? WOuld make a great video too.
Thanks Mate,
L.G. Of USA
I used a caulk gun to apply a gentle pressure on the screwdriver and the rod pop right out
I don't have a green sweater, would a red sweatshirt work?
You MUST use a green one otherwise it will not work 🤣🤣
@@ArveyJay That explains why I was having so much trouble. I'll go to the hardware store tomorrow and see if I can find one.
@@BrianGefrich I'm glad we got to the bottom of it! 🤣👍
i have the same problem rn and can i fix it somehow without removing any parts?
Not that I can think of, as you need to get to the sensor to fix it. It's really not that hard, you can do it!
@@ArveyJay Ok i will try!
@@onnipatri3810 let me know how you go!
I bent my rod :( assuming it wasn't bent before i took it out.
Dang! Can you gently hammer it straight again?
I've been working at this rod for three days. The metal is chipping away and it hasn't budged a bit. I'm losing my grip on reality at this point.
Oh dear. Sorry to hear it. Hope you make some progress soon!
The funny thing about brute force is that if it doesn't work, you aren't using enough.
Turns out the pin was bent like another user mentioned in the comments.
Serendipitously, though, I have another pin of the exact same dimensions so I'll just replace the bad one with thta.
@@KickstandOptional nice one! So weird that it was bent though. I wonder if that is a manufacturer fault and perhaps why others have been having so much trouble.
@@ArveyJay in all fairness, I bought this one refurbished and whoever did the "restoration" did, to be generous, an absolute piss-poor job of it.
@@KickstandOptional Ah! Well that makes more sense! Glad you got it sorted though.
The hammering didn't work for me. But I was able to get it out with a firm and hard push with the screwdriver at the right angle
Good stuff mate!
I want to make that orange trigger more silent