Optoma HD20 Projector Cleaning
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- I had someone drop off an Optoma HD20 DLP Projector. Their complaint was the colors would start to flash and the projector would shut down. Because of the symptoms, I suspected a dirty CW sensor. The insides turned out to be pretty dirty, but a good cleaning did it right. I also repaired the cracked screw socket that holds the top on. This just shows how you need to clean your projectors. I recommend seasonally. Thanks for watching!
I had a fan error. I did what a gal in here suggested. I removed the bulb assembly and top cover. There are two fans. One large one blowing square on the bulb. There is another in a metal housing with two narrow openings. I sprayed compressed air at the blades and heard them spin. I did that a couple times and assembled the projector. It worked like a champ.
Thank you! My zoom wheel wasn't working. Your video suggested I didn't need to take the whole back off. Just used a screwdriver to move the zoom pin.
Nice! Im glad it helped! Thanks for letting me know.
5 years later and this video identified exactly what I have to clean to avoid the color flickering i've been experincing for a year. No matter how much i cleaned the projector I didnt know about the sensor.
7 years later and the same here. Thanks @FixitFrank for posting this.
Great video! My projector was down, and with your help I took it apart for the first time and gave it the cleaning that fixed it! Your step-by-step with the color wheel was so thorough that I would have loved to see you take the main board out, but I just applied the basic process you demonstrated to that phase & it worked out. Thanks for the great instruction and the succinct voiceover!!!
awesome, my hd20 works again, thx! in the end all i had to do was blow the dust of the colour wheel
Thank you so much for the general tip on the color wheel. I was trying to find out why my new lamp on an Optoma DLP projector was not working, especially when the troubleshooting manual indicated that the blinking light in the projector was related to a faulty lamp. The user manual never related the blinking light to a potential problem with the color wheel. I was initially considering buying another lamp again, assuming I had purchased a bad lamp. Imaging!!! More $$$ spent on lamps when it was not necessary.
After seeing this video, I realized it was the color wheel that was not rotating due to dirty bearings and dust build up in the sensor rather than a bad lamp. After cleaning the bearings and sensor, I was successful in starting up the projector.
I have an Optoma HD131X (black version of HD25) and I noticed a dramatic reduction in brightness at approximately 4000 hours. I thought I needed a new lamp, then I saw your tutorial, opened it up, took out the color wheel (which was literally coated in dust) and gave it a really good clean... And viola! I now I have a much brighter and more clear image!!! 😁👍 Thank you for such an informative breakdown.
I do have one problem though? When opening up the case, I was a perhaps a little too rough with taking off the top cover and did it from front to back (the wrong way around to what you suggested). As a result, I snapped off the plastic clip/tab off which holds on the front. The whole thing fits back together fine, but there is a tiny gap in the middle at the front, which also points upwards when ceiling mounted. 😟 Now I'm really kicking myself over it and worried I've ruined the whole projector by letting dust get in easy and make it build up fast again inside, or shorten the remaining lifespan of it. Would you say it's anything to worry about or be overly concerned over?
You're very welcome! Nah, don't stress the gap. That dust takes years to build up. Just run it and consider replacing the lamp assembly soon. 4000 hours is a lot. you will notice even more of a difference with a new bulb installed. If you run it too long, the bulb will explode and possibly cause some real damage.
Thank you so much for your advise! Now I can sleep without worrying too much about the gap! ☺👍
One more question I do have about another small issue I do have which has been a thing for the past year or so, when displaying brighter images, red and yellow seem to skew slightly? I have my projector calibrated (to Rec.709/D65 using a colorimeter) and I can replicate the issue by displaying a 100% Red or Yellow pattern and lowering the contrast to -11 (even going from -10 to -11 the color snap fixes accurately). The correct value is -3 without clipping. Obviously this affects very little in real world content, just more occasionally in cartoon and graphics stuff. More of an annoyance than a dealbreaker. In refresh rates that use the 3x color wheel speed (24 and 50) instead of 2x (60), the issue gets made slightly worse? 🤔 I'd of thought cleaning the colour wheel would fix this but sadly not. Also when the projector starts, I notice a weird screech, which I guess is the colour wheel starting up (also newly developed this past year)?
As for the lamp, this projector has an estimated lamp life of 6000 hours in Eco mode, which I run it in 100% of the time. Worry not, I will replace the lamp as that time approaches! 👍
@@BedfordMarcus that sounds like the wheel is failing. Most versions of that projector are on their 3rd or 4th color wheel by now. If this is still your first, it is well past time for a new one. The squeal is very indicative of that as is the color shift.
@@FixitFrank Awesome, thanks! I never knew that the color wheels in these had such a short lifespan despite routine cleaning?! Now I know where to look! 😁👍
@@FixitFrank Just an update, my new colour wheel came in (100% identical to my original one, with the index mark in the exact same place) and I fitted it (after a good clean all accessible areas, colour wheel photosensor and lamp bay/assembly). Unfortunately it didn't fix my colour issue, in fact, it only made the issue with the banding even worse. Blue was terrible. I had a quick play about with changing the colour wheel index in the service menu, but that did nothing. 🤔
In the end, I ended up reverting back to my old colour wheel (thankfully the seller refunded me in full), and gave the bearing/hub a good blast with an air duster. The noises are now gone and it starts up with no issues (indicating the wheel is healthy). Banding maybe a little better (could be to do with cleaning the sensor) but still predominantly there in red. What else could be the cause apart from the colour wheel, given adjusting the index in the service menu doesn't really help it?
It's still a very good projector (and definitely gonna be much better now I cleaned so much burnt dust of there) but it's just a bit annoying about the red and would love to have it right. I really don't want to throw money after bad things, that's all.
Thanks Frank, my HD20 was pretty clean inside but I did find the color wheel looked hazy so I cleaned it up and problem solved! I did have one small snag when disconnecting the cover cable, the small black clip on the plug broke into pieces. I managed to push the cable back in holding it in place with some tape and everything works!
Wonderful! Those clips can be a royal pain. As long as you have the little 'wedge' held in place I expect you will be fine. There is no tension pulling on it once its put together. Great job!
Fantastic video, really helped me be thorough in taking out screws in right order and being careful with the cables. Just in case anyone else has this issue, I cleaned the sensor and the colour wheel but still the snow appeared on the screen, I pushed the HDMI cable to display adaptor more securely in my laptop and bingo! no more snow :-)) Yes I should have checked the obvious before spending an evening cleaning the insides of a projector but now i know it is clean and in good working order thanks to this video lol!
Thanks for the comment! Im glad you are up and running! Thats my goal with all of this.
Nice instructional video. Used it to clean the sensor on the color wheel of an Optoma HD72, and viola! We are enjoying LARGE screen entertainment again. Thanks :)
I love hearing this. It's exactly why I make the vids. Thanks for letting me know it was helpful!
Very informative video. I liked how you repaired the broken part with the shrink tube. Great idea.
Thanks so much for watching
Had cleaned everything bar this sensor on my Optoma HD131Xe. Fixed the flickering a treat. Cheers for this dude!
Thanks so much! This did the trick, great video 😊
Rostit, Thanks for this. Helped me no end and now my projector is as good as new. Greetings from Spain.
So glad to hear that! The more projectors we keep running the better!
Dude your a beast with this stuff. 👍👍
*You’re
@@Tazza17 joker
Just found this channel and video after getting a second hand HD200X (Pretty much the same unit except it's black?). Anyway I've ordered a new cheap lamp (might get a knockoff one but the one I replaced in my HD65 was a cheap Hong Kong lamp and it has worked flawlessly for me for several years now).
Mine starts up but 'suggests' switching out the lamp so I'm going to do that before I mount and use it. While doing that I might as well clean the whole thing out since it was covered in dust when I got it.
Sounds good. Watch out on the knock off lamps . Some use Krypton 85 to get around the patents on the gas mix. As long as the seller is decently rated you should be OK though.
Thanks, they had 99.3% on their account so my hopes are high. :)
www.ebay.com/itm/Bare-Lamp-for-OPTOMA-HD200X-HD200X-LV-HD20-LV-HD22-HD2200-HT1081-Projector/172072181198?hash=item28104d1dce:g:TokAAOSw-zxWofEj
I have an Optoma HD25e with flashing lamp and temp lights errors. I ordered a new lamp, blower and system fan. Followed your terrific video and replaced all. Also cleaned the color wheel and sensor and gently blew it all out with an air compressor. Now when it powers up I'm getting a flashing power and temp light error. The new lamp, both fans and color wheel are spinning well. Any suggestions?
Hi Shane, You probably have a fan either stuck(wire tucked into a blade) or maybe a wire isn't quite plugged in on one of the fans. That error(if happening instantly) usually means a bad fan. If all fans are spinning, it might be the tachometer lead of a fan that isn't working. How are you with a volt meter?
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the reply. I have and can use a volt meter but it's been awhile. The errors don't happen immediately. After I replaced the fans and bulb I tested with the top cover off like you did in the video. It powers up, bulb comes on, fans and color wheel all spinning. I get the errors after about 30 seconds later, then it shuts down. I'll ensure all the connections to the main board are solid and try again. How would I use a volt meter to test? Thanks!
Ty for the video, you save my Optoma HD 25 !!!
Hello Pierre-Etienne! I am so glad to hear that! That is why I do this. Bonne année!
Thanks for this very informative breakdown.
I have a second-hand HD20 I've been trying to repair. Perhaps you have some insight. After several minutes of use, and as it heats up, the image will begin to flicker rapidly for a few seconds and turn green. The image will remain green until the unit cools down.
There are two ways I have been able to get around this issue as temporary fixes. For reference, I have the HD20 ceiling mounted.
1) I run the HD20 in High Altitude mode (fan on high the whole time).
2) I run the HD20 with the outer casing removed (I position and tape up pieces of charcoal filter to block the stray light flooding out the bottom but leave the lamp area wide open). Even so, after an hour it may still shift image to green. However, selecting High Altitude mode at ths point and running it for 5 minutes or so will typically be enough to shift the image back to full color without having to power down completely.
I've cleaned the unit thoroughly as well, however , based on your video I will pay closer attention to the color wheel chip. Another RUclips video suggested I replace the thermal paste where the chip touches the heatsink. I've attempted this twice with no luck.
It's also very possible that the "Osram" bulb that came second-hand with this unit is a knock-off and is overheating the unit. Though I am not prepared to shell out the $150+ needed to test that possibility yet. I've inspected the Lamp housing and lens and do not see any indication of burning at this point.
Is there anything else I should be looking at that would be affecting the image coloration like this? Thanks CG
Hi there! I'd be glad to help. You likely have a dirty color wheel/CW sensor. How freely does it spin if you give it a little flick with your finger? The drifting color is what had me leaning that way. If the DMD was overheating you would see more spotty flickering pixels (in my experience). Im pretty well versed with this model. Im happy to help further.
Hey pal! You are right on the mark my man. Cleaned the CW sensor and running for nearly 2 hours now and the image is holding steady, beautiful. Thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Awesome!! That makes me so happy to hear! Thanks for letting me know!
Bin it? The way he explained how to clean this projector is just a way of damage the dmd chip
@@FixitFrank Frank I just replaced my bulb after 8 years of use! Now I have the same issue (picture turns green after 5 minutes). What are you using to clean the CW?
Hi dude, this video is great and will help me a lot!
After 20 minutes on, my HD20 (lamp with 2,000 hours), starts to project practically in green. Could this be dirt on the fan and the color wheel?
What kind of plastic did you use to heat and repair the nut holder? This was awasome!!!
Thanks a lot and best regards from Brazil!
Dear Frank, thanks for the video, I was able to solve the color flashing! The IR sensor and color wheel were very dusty, like all of the inside...Now I can see some lite bubbles, only on very dark scenes, like I have some dust inside the lens...the outside is perfectly clean...any ideas on how to remove dust inside the lens?
Wish you showed the removal of the circuit board
I do in other videos. I have a bunch of this chassis. Just search Optoma HD20 on my channel. edit: Just saw that you did! Glad it helped.
FixitFrank, thanks a million for this video. Key for me was seeing you pop off the focus ring for disassembly.
I had a horrible buzzing sound from my HD20, which went away after about 5 minutes of operation. And then next time, unit wouldn't turn on. It would try, then light up the lamp failure red and shut itself down.
Got it apart and what was happening is the color wheel barely touching the sensor board (buzzing). Then apparently the unit quit starting up because color wheel had totally jammed against sensor board.
Amazingly it functions fine after freeing up the color wheel and just barely filing away the edge of the sensor board.
Both fans run fine. What do you reckon caused this if not overheating? Is failure mode of the color wheel to get wobbly bearings and then start dragging?
Again, thanks for taking time to make the vid!
Further inspection and the color wheel has a segment separating. That's why it's rubbing. Either way i figured on ordering a new color wheel.
I was going to mention that you may have a segment pulling free. You can get away with superglue for little while but replacement is your best option. After you put that new wheel in, you should be good for a long time.
GREAT TUTORIAL!!!
I know you're not a mind reader but here is my Question:
I recently replaced my bulb with one that I bought on line but am still getting the same amber & or red lights. Is it safe to assume that this replacement bulb is defective? Or could I have bigger problems?
It cant hurt to try another lamp. The problem may be elsewhere though. These are known for color wheel failures after 5-7 years. If you have never changed the color wheel, I would check my video on HD20 color wheel replacement to see if the same applies.
@@FixitFrank Yep. Did that worked out really well, then about 2 weeks later... the bulb. Just ordered a replace bulb again and hoping this will work. Thanks again. I really appreciate your tutorials!!!
on the color wheel sensor. are you using any solution like alcohol or just a dry q-tip?
I try for the 'less is more' approach. If its really dirty, some isopropyl won't hurt, but if you can get away without anything, that is better in my opinion.
I ripped the blue ribbon wire that connects the projector to its cover. Now the buttons on the projector don’t work. Where can I find replacement wire?
How bad is it ripped? Is it just one end? Finding a replacement will be difficult. Repairing the end might be an option. Otherwise if you find a ribbon from something else, you can trim it down.
Where is the temperature sensor located? I own a HD81 that shuts off after 10 mins. Everything has been cleaned but still does this so I was thinking if there could be a temp sensor.
What are the LEDs doing when it turns off? If it is overheating and shutting down it will display a temp warning. If you are getting a lamp light flashing, it is probably not a thermal sensor that is your problem. You may want to get into the service menu and see if any of the fans are reporting errors or if there is another error being recorded.
Be careful about ending up on a wild goose chase. I have done that and ended up wasting a lot of time. 10min until shutdown does make me lean towards a thermal issue but unless you are getting a temp warning when it shuts down, it isn't a sensor. There are actually multiple temp sensors.
I'd check the fans personally. If the blower fan for the lamp is worn out, it will not move enough air and the lamp will slowly overheat and turn itself off without a temp warning.
Check the error reporting in the service menu next and see what that points to.
@@FixitFrank It turned out to be the temp sensor. I'm not sure why it was acting this way but I took it out and just reseated it back in but not super tight it works fine now.
You are a genius, your video was super useful for me! Thanks Man from Argentina!
Just one question, how did you plug-out the orange conector from the mainboard at 3:19. I just can´t plug it out it´s totally stucked, is there any tip for doing this? I will appreciate your answer.....
They can be sticky. One trick it to rock it side to side, while pulling on the wire gently. You may want to take a very small flat blade screwdriver and work it around between the connectors. Another method which I do not recommend (unless you are very careful) is using wire cutters to gently hold the connector (barely biting into the plastic) and working the connector out. It is a hard area to work in, with little clearance. The last option is to leave it plugged in and unscrew the board from the color wheel and leave the board hanging. That might be a good option for you to be safe. Thank you so much for the kind words!! I really appreciate it!
I have an Optoma HD180 unit which is a re-branded HD20. I have had issues with the image turning green in the past. I found running it in High Altitude mode would solve this issue until recently. I have had this unit apart in the past and it is clean inside. I however did not clean the CW sensor. So I took the color wheel out and dusted off the sensor. It looked pretty clean. After putting the CW back in my unit now powers on, color wheel spins up but I get no Lamp.
After doing some research on Color Wheels mine was pretty noisy and did not spin freely. I read that if the CW does not spin up to speed the lamp will not turn on.
I just replaced the CW and the same issue is still there. Color Wheel spins up but I get no lamp (I have switched lamps out to be sure)
It will cycle a few times which the fans will spin up to full then power down and attempt to restart. eventually it will give me a Lamp failure indicator.
Have you run into anything like this before. It was running until I took out the color wheel the first time. Everything looks to be in place. Could the sensor be bad? Can you buy just the sensor?
Thanks
One thing I always recommend checking is all of the wires. Even if you don't think you touched them. More than once I had similar problems and just unplugging/replugging the wires helps. As far as the sensor, I would see what its sending to the projector. A scope is ideal but you can use a volt meter. Measure the 3 pins on the mainboard with the sensor plugged in. Start up the projector and you should have 0v, 5v, and then the sense line. It will be lower than 5v. Maybe 1-2v? Depends on the meter. If you measure 5 on both power and signal, the sensor went bad or more likely the wire broke where it goes into the sensor board. Take a look at those. Its really rare for the sensor to go bad. You will need to get into the service menu to adjust the color wheel index position or your color will be off. See what you find with the sensor pins.
Rostit I'll check again tomorrow. I'm going to tear the whole system apart to make sure nothing came loose removing it from the ceiling mount. Thanks for your reply.
Hey Frank, can you help me here..
My HD20 had a problem where the colours would flicker often and the general colour of the display would turn weird sometimes the negative colours...
I opened it up and cleaned almost everything.. one of the screws around the colour wheel was stuck so i didn't force it out and just cleaned it with a small (clean) brush 🖌️ i also cleaned the small sensor besides it
The general colours are now back to original (thanks to you!) But now a new problem is that the top left the screen (just the corner) has distorted colours
Thanks again Frank
hello! I'd have to see a picture but I have a theory the light tunnel moved or shifted. the 2 screws with glue on them are the adjustments for the light tunnel. Check out this video and see if anything points to your issue. ruclips.net/video/_smYnIJKjYs/видео.html
@@FixitFrank oh whoops there was glue on them 😬 i was wondering why one of them wasn't coming out 😵💫 alright I'll try to do sth
Btw the plastic piece holding the nut did crack just as you mentioned in the beginning 😁
I have a problem.
I start the beamer and it comes a beep, then turns the color wheel for about 5 sec, within the 5 sec buzzing the color wheel 3 times. Then the color wheel shuts off and comes to a standstill. After stopping, both fans (fan of the lamp and the sensor) start to blow, then the yellow operating light starts flashing (flashes on and off and on, and so on) and the LED lights steady red.
According to the operating instructions, it is a lamp error. Lamp errors can be, for example, lamp defective, color wheel or sensor defective, power supply lamp defective and so on.
I changed the projector lamp for a new one, but the error is still there.
Please help me.
Hi Robert, I would be glad to. Is it an HD20 as well? My first suspect is always the color wheel if the lamp has been changed. Have you opened it yet?
I have the same model. I have a black spot that just appeared while I have my presentation on screen. I have wiped the lens very well and even changed out the bulb thinking it was a bad bulb. The spot is still on the screen. Any idea on how to approach this? thanks for any help you can provide.
Could you share a picture of what you are seeing? There are a few possible causes and its hard to say without seeing the issue. Imgur.com offers free and anonymous picture sharing.
@@FixitFrank Hi Frank, I went ahead and looked at your second video about cleaning the lens. upon opening the lens assembly I found the big main lens of the 3 had a burn mark. Do you have a link on where I can order a new one? I see alot available on ebay but thats all from china and takes weeks to deliver.
That's what I was wondering if you would find. That's a shape lens. You might need a new lamp assembly. They tend to cause that if it has a bad lens coating. It can happen from age and dust too. Let me see if I have any old but good lense
@@FixitFrank Hello Frank, If you do have any extra lenses I would greatly appreciate it.
Hey Frank, thanks a lot for the videos. They have been really helpful. One question, I have an Optoma hd20 bought second hand that has a lot of yellow built up in the hot air exit grid (as the one in this video but much heavier) and I wonder how could I clean it up. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks a lot and keep it up!
Compressed air and projectors is a no no, so why do you persist with the risk of getting dust into to optical engine...??
I partly and politely disagree. At some point the risk is outweighed by the benefits. Properly done is works wonderfully. Some of the units I work on have dust so thick that a vacuum will never get it out. Low pressure high volume air works fine. Will it get into the optic assembly sometimes? Sure. They need to be cleaned anyway so its not really an issue.
Frank, fantastic video, thank you very much. However, I'm having an issue and I'm not sure if you even will see this, but it's worth a try. I had the flickering issue, and of course took everything apart prior to this video and cleaned the fan, took out the lamp bulb and blew everything off well. Flickering still. This time I watched your video and took out the color wheel and sensor. Cleaned the sensor, but didn't go as far as removing the circuit board. Reassembled and got a flashing green light for about 2 minutes then a red bulb light and amber power LED. Took apart and carefully blew the color wheel and sensor, still same issue. Also tried different lamp and that didn't work, I'm stumped. Any ideas on what to try? I have made sure that cables are right and reseated them as well.
Hi Dan, Its hard to say 100% without it in front of me, but the color wheel bearings may be worn out. Could you post a video of the flickering so I can see what you are seeing?
Great video, thanks... I have a Optoma TH1060p, that just went down on me . It won't turn on, could it be that it's dirty? I have had it a couple of years and never cleaned it...
Hi James, I have a th1060 as well. Cleaning won't make it come back on but it will help it once it does.
Are you getting and standby LED? Also check the lamp. I bet your lamp died and the blower fan in front is what did it. I have a video on a polyvision pj905 cleaning that is identical to the th1060. Just search for pj905 and you'll see it. Review that video for cleaning yours. I also have a video on replacing the power supply in the th1060. You should be able to search on the model number. I'd link it here but yt makes it hard to do on mobile.
I often watch your video when I clean and do repairs on my projector but I’m kinda stumped on the issue I have now and I have not been able to find it on the internet. I have a black mark on the left top corner of my screen that stretches over to the right top corner. I can still see images and words behind the black spot if I get up close to it, it seems like something is in the way but I can’t seem to find it. If you don’t mind helping me out I can email you if you need more information. Thank you:)
I wonder if its a light tunnel issue? Sure thing, you can contact me at sales@weezytech.com Just let me know what model you have just so I can make sure Im looking at the right info.
I'm so happy I found this video. Thank you. My HD20 optoma projector has a kind of yellow glow in some parts of the screen. You can see this for example on peoples faces in the image. In the beginning the colour of the rest of the screen is good. The longer the beamer stays on, the worst it gets. the yellow turns into weird moving lines and eventually the whole screen turns greenish and distorted. Could this be the color wheel or maybe the mainboard? what do you think?
I'd like to see a video of the issue if that is possible. Or even some pictures (you can host them for free at imgur.com). it sounds similar to a color wheel problem except for the moving lines. It might be failing capacitors in the power supply as well. If you can get me a video to see of the problem, it will give me better info to go on.
@@FixitFrank Hi Frank, I decided to open the projector and clean it. I also cleaned the tiny sensor. Now it's running smooth again and the colours are how they should be. I hope it stays this way. I cannot thank you enough for posting your videos and for helping all of us. Much appreciated, thank you.
@@SSS-tr3zk I am happy to hear that! I suspect you will be fine for a while. Happy Holidays to you
thanks for the tutorial, i got a lot of good tips from your gideo! .Could you specify which product i should use to clean up the color wheel? I was thinking on Isopropilic alchohol in aerosol or you have to use another specific product? Thanks!
Hello Nacho! I use anhydrous isopropyl alcohol, window cleaner with ammonia or just a little water. I will use isopropyl if the wheel is really bad. The thing you have to watch out for is the type of glue used. Sometimes alcohol can attack the glue and loosen the segments. If you are careful and do not get alcohol against the center of the hub(where the glue is) you can use 99% isopropyl. Normal 72% or even 91% has too much water for my comfort. If the wheel only has dust, try a dry microfiber cloth. The less you can do the better. For the alcohol or glass cleaner I will use a cotton swab to apply it. Microfiber would be my first method, then go to using chemicals. Remember Less is more! Thanks again for watching my videos and if you have any other questions please let me know.
Very similar to the hd131xe which is an epic projector
It's interesting how many projectors are almost the same. Even when they take different lamps, I find a lot that have almost identical guts. Between Coretronic, Delta, Mitsubishi and other OEMs, I bet there are only a half dozen companies who actually construct projectors.
@@FixitFrank m8 on my hd131xe im noticing the left side of the picture is slightly darker than the right, any help here would be greatly appreciated
IF you can show me a pic or video I can give you better advice, but I'd suggest the lamp (if its more than 2 years old) might be failing or the light tunnel perhaps has shifted. It all depends on how drastic the dim area is. If you see a clear edge where it gets bright again, I'd lean towards a light tunnel shifting. If it is a soft change from dim to bright, I'd try a new lamp (if it is older) or give it a cleaning in case dust is blocking some light.
@@FixitFrank hello m8, ive cleaned all the optics with lens cleaner, the bulb has 580 hours on it, the bulb looks immaculate no dust on it but there was dust everywhere else but ive shifted it all, yea it is a subtle shift in brightness, the left side is not as bright as the right, its noticable on a white or coloued full screen, the bulb is the factory one its got 580 hours on it from new in 2015, thank you for replying mate
That is a tough one. Subtle issues are the worst. If you are comfortable trying this, bypass the lamp door switch and power up the projector. Try pushing the lamp slightly to one side.
You could use a long thin piece of something non-metal tpo push against the light tunnel edge a little. If you see that dimness shift, it points more to a light tunnel moving. Light tunnel moves by two small screws set 90degrees apart. They have a spring that pushes back on each axis.
Try shifting the lamp first. 4 years
Hi. Im kind a noob in this but i have the same one. Started my projector and message came up. (Clean Filter) where is filter?
don't stress it! this model does not have a filter. I think when you see that warning it means either a fan isn't working right or the temperature is going too high. if you changed the lamp lately, make sure it has the same colored glass filter on the front of the housing. if you replaced it recently and it has a greenish tint to the glass, that is possibly your problem. the green filters let too much Infrared inside and that can raise the internal temperature quickly. I'd check for that and a clogged fan, especially the turbine fan that blows air into the lamp.
@@FixitFrank thank you som much for the input.
How do I test the optoma hd20 color wheel sensor? I've replaced the lamp and the color wheel and cleaned the projector using your tips. The unit starts then the color wheel seem to spin at Ludacris speed then fans come on then it repeats a few times then I get solid red and a flashing amber light. Lamp never turns on?
I'll do a video on it this week. I have an HD20 here that I can show you how. Give me a few days to get it all together. this is a good idea for another video.
@@FixitFrank AwW Man, Thanks a lot!!!
@@TallStarlite I just recorded it. Check back on Wednesday or if you are desperate, email me and I will send you the raw video (pre-edited) tonight.
@@FixitFrank Frank thank you so much I didn't mean for to go threw so much trouble. Ive had this projector sitting a shelf for about 4 years after I replace the lamp then a few weeks later the color wheel exploded one night so I replace it but as stated the lamp won't turn on. I'm in no rush I have a BenQ 1070 working flawlessly. Optoma would just be a spare if it'll ever work again. Thanks again !!
@@TallStarlite No trouble at all. It honestly happened to work out that I had the projector around when you asked, so it was kind of meant to be. I'll have it posted on Wednesday.
Is this a similar lay out to a optoma hd25? ,as mine doent sound to healthy ,I think the colour wheel bearing has gone .maybe a fan ,but when I put a film on it gets louder ,compared to gaming ,it's not the normal sound u would expect from new, sound rough.
You are likely right. If this is the original wheel then it is well past time for it to fail. The HD25 is almost the same thing. If it's a loud vibration or whining, then you are on the right path. These wheels are pretty inexpensive these days and the HD25 is a good projector.
@@FixitFrank
Thanks for getting back to us ,I'm ordering one .
HiRostit! Great video! I have the same projector with lens problem is showing a black spot on the screen just wondering if you fix this problems also and where you located thx!
Hi Javier, If you are getting a black spot that is probably the lens inside the optic area. Unfortunately its not a reasonable repair. The entire optics assembly needs to be changed and thats expensive. Well over $400. I would sell the projector for parts on eBay and treat yourself to a new one.
Hi Frank, I got one of these projectors on eBay and managed to get it back up and running again but the seller took out and never replaced any of the screws that hold down the top of the housing. Do you know what kind of screws they are by any chance ?
Hi Joe, I have one in my closet at work. I will check tomorrow and let you know. I think they are pretty standard plastic thread screws, but I will find out for sure and get back to you.
FixitFrank Brilliant, that’d be super!
Hi Joe, I checked and they should be M3 by 7 or 8mm long(7.6mm or so. Same size as some of the screws holding the bits together inside.
FixitFrank That’s Brilliant thanks so much for that Frank!
I wish I knew we were breaking stuff before he showed us how to clean it. Smh
How did you get the mother board out?
elektrotanya.com/showresult?what=hd20%20optoma&kategoria=&kat2=all Here is a link to the service manuals. You need to remove the screws around the motherboard as well as the bracket on the top of the optic block. I have a newer video where you can see me remove it. ruclips.net/video/IBs7E5pkS1s/видео.html
The video beam worked perfect when I turn it off that night the next day I just start the led color ambar and do nothing else any solution
tomas di maio amber led is normal when not on. Unplug power and wait 1 minute. Plug in power. Press power button on beamer and it should start. If you use remote, replace batteries first. if still amber and no fan or light, the problem is more severe.
I want to buy a used one. Is $100 a fair price in 2019?
That's on the cheaper side. They go for 150-200. It's an old but good projector. If you can get one for $100, that's good
hi Frank.....i have some faint white circles on my screen only can see i dark seens....i am assuming this is due to dust in the optical path......my pj is an optoma eh500. do u have experience with thia pj if so how much would u charge to clean tbe optical path of dust?
Hi dear this is zee khan my optoma hd20 when i turn on the green power light plinking the projector doesn't on plz tell me how to fix it thanks
Hello, I have been looking for a help and based on your tutorial you might help me. I have the Optoma HD131xe and I followed your insturction. Everything is clean but when I start my projector it will run for 10sec and than the lamp will go off and by the LED signals it say that it is overheated. The fan will rise the rpm like during the end cooling and after cca 30sec it will turn off the entire projector. Have you experienced this before, the lamp is not brand new, but it has not been using so much. And it seems that there is some wierd noise coming from the projector.
In my experience that is a fan not reporting the proper speed. The noise may be a damaged fan or some debris. Check the lamp blower fan especially. See if the tachometer wire reports a low DC voltage. Usually it should be under 1volt. Compare each RPM voltage. If one is significantly different, it may be that fan. That noise may be the root cause of everything. If a blade broke or an old lamp exploded and left glass inside, it can cause all sorts of grief. If it was working before disassembly, then just check your wiring and make sure nothing is pushing against a fan blade. I've done that before.
Is there any way I can contact you to fix my hd20?
I have an email address listed in the about section. sales@weezytech.com What kind of problem are you having?
friend I'm Brazilian would like to know which is the volar of lnk of the main source because my torro helps there please
Hi Luci, I apologize, I do not understand your question. Feel free to post in Brazilian/Portuguese. I use google translate.
Oi Luci, peço desculpas, não entendi sua pergunta. Sinta-se à vontade para postar em brasileiro. Eu uso Google Tradutor.
A fonte energia principal de alimentação do projetor queimo um c.i regulador de tensão o qual não consigo ler o nome porque queimo, pelo que pesquisei pode ser que seja um c.i ( lnk364pn ) queria saber se isto está correto e obrigado por sua atenção.
@@beatrizoliv765 ESTÁ BEM! Compreendo. LNK364pn está correto. Veja este vídeo ruclips.net/video/j4Sp7xS_cMU/видео.html. Eu tive o mesmo problema. O transformador falha e queima o regulador. O novo regulador não resolveu o problema. Eu compro nova fonte de alimentação da China, US $ 65. Verifique o transformador para procurar o enrolamento aberto. O transformador não é vendido para ninguém. Eu espero que você consiga consertar sua fonte de alimentação. Eu não fui bem sucedido. Muito obrigado por assistir meu vídeo! Espero ter sido útil para você.
Awesome video, my optoma HD 20 died , no power, no led, no nothing. Is there a fuse or something like a fusable link or sensor that could cause this. My wife did perceive a smell of heated plastic .your help would be appreciated.
Don
Hi Don, that is possible that the thermal fuse tripped but it should have reset after cooling. Aside from that there is no temp protection that would render it without power. If I had to guess you have a failed power supply near the secondary. There is a chip that fails and can burn the board. Have you looked inside yet?
FixitFrank I haven't opened it that deep yet, when I do, I will let you know, but first Caribbean cruise.
How can I get ahold of you to fix my optoma projector
Hi Paul, Feel free to email me at rostit@ultrafark.com . I will then reply from my real email address and we can discuss. Thanks -Frank
Hi, I bought a second hand HE415 Optoma.. I had to buy a new lamp and when I turned it on it has white looking dots all over the screen. I did take it apart and tried to blow air in the color wheel but still having the white dots...any ideas or help?
The white dots are from a bad DLP chip. The only way to fix that is to replace the DLP chip itself. They are some of the mirrors that cant flip back anymore and they show up as white dots and sometimes even flicker. This thing is what is bad. d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/VdJ5MYVMlULKubZK.medium
thanks so much...am I in for an expensive repair? is it worth doing or is it a lot of trouble?
They can be expensive. Im having a hard time finding service info on that model but I think its close to an HD142X. They use a DLP chip that you can buy for $130-170 depending on where you find it. The total job can run around $250-300 depending on where you live. Its doable yourself and not super hard as long as you arent scared about taking it apart. Fortunately you cant make it any worse. If you want to move ahead, Ill get some videos up that show a general DLP chip replacement. Most DLP units these days are basically the same and involve almost identical steps to replace the chip. The important thing first is to find what the part# is. Is there any other model info on it besides that HE415? A regulatory model # maybe?
I've already had it apart to clean it with slight air to the color wheel and whatever I could get to because that's what I was told originally that it was probably dust. There is no actual model number on the projector itself. I had to search by pictures and then finally found the manual to download it. All I know is the EH415. I did buy a new lamp for it that's why I hate to give up on it. I can definitely try and do it myself...thanks for all the help. would love to get this thing working properly
OK. You should be alright replacing it if you are comfortable with that work. The chip is behind the heatsink on the back of the optical assembly. I recommend removing the whole assembly(colorwheel and all) and working on it outside the projector. The chip will have a # on the back of it. Some are locked in with something like a CPU latch that you turn with a screw driver. Others just pop out of a socket. You can search that # on eBay or Aliexpress for replacements. Likely in the $100-150 range. My only hesitation with some DLP replacements is that the new DMD chip is made as well as the old DMD chip so its only a matter of time before that one fails. Here is an example of the part # and what the DMD in your projector looks like. www.amazon.com/Multiple-Brand-1910-6143W-Chip-1920X1080/dp/B00AK4QBUE Im not sure if that is yours, but if the 1910-xxxx matches yours it might be.
When cleaning the circuit boards and fans do you use rubbing alcohol or just an air can to remove all the dust?
I use an aircompressor personally and then use a dry cloth to wipe off the rest. Alcohol would work, but Id be careful in case it attacks the plastic. The goal is get as much dust out as possible. I wouldnt go overboard and remove too many things to clean. You then stand the chance of having issues re-assembling. I would use some canned air if you have it available and then maybe a dust rag to wipe off the fan blades. less is more when it comes to disassembly.
Rostit aweosme thank you very much
FixitFrank
2 weeks ago
Hi Shane, You probably have a fan either stuck(wire tucked into a blade) or maybe a wire isn't quite plugged in on one of the fans. That error(if happening instantly) usually means a bad fan. If all fans are spinning, it might be the tachometer lead of a fan that isn't working. How are you with a volt meter?
Shane Monson
Shane Monson
1 week ago
@FixitFrank Thanks for the reply. I have and can use a volt meter but it's been awhile. The errors don't happen immediately. After I replaced the fans and bulb I tested with the top cover off like you did in the video. It powers up, bulb comes on, fans and color wheel all spinning. I get the errors after about 30 seconds later, then it shuts down. I'll ensure all the connections to the main board are solid and try again. How would I use a volt meter to test? Thanks!
Hi Shane! I am editing a video right now that shows me checking the fans inside an HT1075. I do have an older video on testing fans ruclips.net/video/stIYr2bI2fQ/видео.html The new one might be a little more comprehensive if this one isn't enough. I should have the new one up in the next day or so.
Oh shoot. After teardown and cleaning the color wheel, fans and the rest of the projector, it does not fire up again. When I switch on, the power LED just goes from orange to blinking green and after three seconds back to orange. The projectors remains dead without making any fan noise or light bulb action. Nothing is moving or happening. Checked the internal connectors several times. Can somebody help?
Ooh, the screw of the bulb closure was not tight enough, I guess. Now it is working :)
Hi Frank, I own an Optoma hd25e. About 3 months ago it shut down suddenly the day after the usual use from the night before. It worked during a month aproximately with scrambling image and colour; I thought it was the satelite box (source) and replaced with a new one, but when I tried to put it on it didn't work and both lights of temperature and lamp turned on and it's since then I can't use. When I try to turn it on it gives the logo but not the image and goes on protection mode. Note that I replaced the lamp with brand new genuine one just in those days. Contacted Optoma Europe and they told me by symptoms it could be the mainboard, but checking on forums like this I learned about the CW sensor and dirty into whole case and parts. According to your competence and experience, is it possible my problem could be solved by deep cleaning?
Hi Mario, It does sound possible. When the image starts to fail, do you hear what sounds like a fan changing speed? The CW sensor will cause the CW to change its speed up and down until it shuts down. A simple method to clean the sensor is to remove the lamp and blow out the inside with compressed air. That may loosen and remove enough dust to allow the sensor to work again. You can see its pretty small. This one is not much different than the HD25. Was the image itself ok? or was the issue both image and colors? A CW sensor issue will not affect the actual outline of the image. Only the colors will flicker and change. If you can post a video I can weigh in more specifically.
Hi again F, if I will post a video you will see the projector not running to give an image, but it starting to project the logotype OPTOMA and then shutting down with both lamp and temp lights on. To explain better when the image had started scrambling during that month the colors kept or, for very few seconds, instants, appeared only one (green or yellow). When I replaced the lamp I tried to remove most of dirty, especially from the fan, but I was conscious that it wasn't enough, because I didn't open the whole case to replace the lamp. I think the problem was more about image than about color(s). Bye, by now. Tomorrow I will post a video of the projector running.
Sounds good. I only ask because it will be easier for me to tell what the cause is with a video.
Hi again, I tried to upload a video and send you, can you confirm you received? thank you
Hi Mario, I see what you mean. That is most certainly a failing colorwheel. You may be able to save it though. I sent you my email in the PM. Thanks! Frank
I have an Optoma HD20 and the bulb broke a few days ago. I replaced the bulb, but now I am having the following issue. The unit will power on and run just fine for about 5 or 10 minutes and then all of a sudden, the color will turn grey/green and start to jitter or flicker slightly then the unit will power itself down and then the red light stays solid and the amber light will flash. I can unplug the unit for a minute or two, plug it back in and start it back up and the exact same issue will occur. Any ideas?
Absolutely. Let me ask a few questions first. Is the lamp using an name brand bulb? Also, does the glass on the front look like it has a tint to it? If not, you were sent a bum lamp. A lot of places sell cheap knock offs. There are lamps that are not OEM that are perfectly fine, but also some that are pure junk. Your description sounds like when I tested lamps from a new vendor that were improperly coated. Where did you get the lamp from? One trick that might work, is move the lens from the old lamp to the new lamp. If it then works, that was the issue. Basically the Infrared light is not being filtered and its confusing the color wheel sensor. The other possibility is that when you changed the lamp, some dust was knocked loose and clogged the sensor. Either way something is causing your colorwheel to lose its place and then the unit is shutting down to protect itself.
It was the little lens! I removed the lens from the old unit, put it on the new one and it's been working fine for the last couple of day! Thanks so much for your info. You saved me a trip to the repair guy down the road and probably around $150 for him to check it out and repair it!
Well, it's me again but using a different account.....the fix above worked great, but about 4 days after I fixed it, I started getting Fan Failure errors and then the unit would automatically shut off. I don't really want to spend a fortune taking this to the repair store....any info on how to fix the Fan Failure error? I can see and hear the large fan moving when the unit is on.
Id bet you have a wire that is falling into the fan. Open it up again, and very carefully make sure all the wires are clear of the fans. I doubt anything is actually wrong. Ive seen that before myself when a wire slips and causes a fan to drag.
Ok thanks, I'll give that a try tonight or tomorrow! =)
Hey there! I have Optoma TW 605 ST, very similar inside. All componenst located same way, just a bit different mobo. Had to replace bulb, did so, and also disassabled to clean, also with air compressor. Did it gently. However, once everything is assambled together I have many light spots on picture with one big.. See picture in that link: imgur.com/DcHcp0Y
imgur.com/lK0d3xQ
Can you help me and say what the heck is wrong?
Thx in advance...
Hello Krzysztof! You have a dirty DMD module. The front side of the DLP chip has lots of dust on it now. Sometimes, if there is a lot of dust, it will blow into the optic module and cause this.
ruclips.net/video/K_bCP74xsPo/видео.html I go over the optic cleaning. This should help. Also, make sure the bulb is a good brand. It should be made by Osram or Philips. If it is not, it may not be bright enough. Projectors are made to tolerate a certain amount of dust. The lamp should be bright enough to shine around the dust particles if they are not too numerous. If you have a lamp with an Osram bulb, then you are probably ok there. If it is a cheap knock off, I would be suspect of the bulb as well.
Where are you located I like for you to lean mine
Hello Dorothy! I am in PA. My email is listed on the about page about halfway down.
Review by Will Forte haha