Hello Frank, I have watched many of your videos and appreciated your comment about trying to keep these projectors out of the landfills. I have an Optoma HD200X which has served us well for the past ~15 years and have been nursing it along recently with a new bulb and DIY repair to the color wheel (re-gluing 5 of 6 color segments into the motor) and a thorough cleaning (sadly the first in it's life with us). Since replacing the bulb, the unit inconsistently shuts down for 'Over Temperature' (per status led lights). Sometimes it will run fine, other times it will shut down in the first 10-15 minutes but will run fine after I reset the fault memory by unplugging the power cord. The blower/bulb fan was part of the cleaning and is seen running when I have tested the unit without the cover in place, similar for the main housing fan (which kicks into high when powering down properly). Do you have any recommendations for this random over temp shut down condition? The bulb is a Osram replacement bulb. A second issue showed up since performing the above. I was starting to notice "cloudy" images, most noticeable on white image/scene, but visible on blue menu background as well. It was progressively getting worse, when I noticed a smell and saw fumes/smoke from the area of the light tunnel. I took the optic block/lens/color wheel assembly out (guided by your video) and discovered that my light tunnel glue was not holding to the metal sleeve (thankfully the mirrors are still together). The two adjusting screws seems to have 'resin' holding their threads (even with the optic block out I can't get a good purchase with my screw driver in the lower/rear facing screw head to turn it .. but will work on this carefully so I don't damage the screw head). Is the 'cloudy' (not sure if this is the term?) image/resolution a result of a loose or shifted light tunnel? Could the heat from the bulb (defective/hot bulb or insufficient blower/cooling fan) cause this area to get so hot that glue starts to smoke? I did not check the light tunnel with an IR temperature reader before shutting down. Appreciate any recommendations you can provide.
Firstly thank you for the kind words! I appreciate that. Secondly I think you have a defective lamp assembly. It sounds like it has no IR filter. That would explain the temp warning and shut down. It would also explain the cloudy image. See if your new lamp assembly has the reddish blue tint to the lens or if it's greenish/clear. If it's greenish or clear, that is your root cause. There is also a chance one of the fans is not working properly. Temp warning means either a true over temp situation or that a fan is failing. Hard to say which one without it here. I hope this gets you in the right direction!
Thanks, I compared the new bulb to the previous bulbs and was not able to get any type of tint, where as the old bulbs do. Discovered why the cloudy image was happening … the 3rd (largest lens) in the optic block was melting and the brown residue was blocking the center and puddling at the bottom !! The convex side facing the mirror (which has a smoky film on it .. cloud causing) is now concave. The bulb must have turned into a laser? Are replacement lenses available? Sadly, I took all this as the final straw and retired the projector. An Epson HC2250A has the throw distance (and price point) I want (14’-6” = 92” W). Do you have an opinion on the HC2250A?
Awesome video! Projector made a horrible noise that made me jump out of my seat to get away from it. After shutting down and disassembly I found a green segment had been thrown from the color wheel. I was ready to throw it out when I found this video on replacing the color wheel. The new color wheel went in easily as you demonstrated. Feeling cocky, I put everything back together without testing. When powering up the lights came on and everything looked good but there was a loud buzzing sound. I assumed it was the bulb at end of life so replaced the projector lamp. When trying to power up with the new lamp the green light illuminated but the projector lamp didn't come on. After a few seconds the cooling fan came on and the unit seemed to through the shutdown sequence. Further investigation and using your testing sequence led to the discovery that one of the color wheel segments was rubbing against the light tunnel frame. The wheel had stopped in the rubbing position and the motor wasn't strong enough to start the wheel spinning. If the wheel isn't spinning, the projector lamp does not illuminate. After pondering my options for a few days, I removed the optical assembly and used a dremel tool to shave off the end of the light tunnel frame that was touching the wheel. With no interference between the wheel and optical tunnel frame it started spinning on power up and the projector lamp illuminated. I sure learned a lot and would not have attempted any of it without the lessons you provided in this video. Thank you!
Hey Frank, great video! You always put some care and detail into each of your videos. Really appreciate your explanations and knowledge, I really learn a lot watching you work. Thanks to you I was able to diagnose a similar issue with the light tunnel with my projector that was causing a shadow on the bottom right on the screen. Cleaned up some old glue that had melted onto the calibration screws and calibrated the light tunnel to get rid of shadow. Much appreciated
Thanks for letting me know! This is why I keep putting the videos up. I'm learning as I go too. Granted I already made a lot of the mistakes so I make it look easy sometimes. Seeing posts like yours where you were able to use the information is awesome 😊
I really like the patience you have when something goes a little wrong. I have this exact Optoma and it needs the color wheel replaced. My projects always turn out to be a major one. Wish you lived close to me so I could pay you. Lol
Thank you! I learned early on that stuff is going to happen and I can either deal with it or lose my mind. I like my mind and dont want to lose it so I take a step back, deal with it and move on. Granted I wish I was better about that with non electronic things in life! If you're in the states, I do take in shipped projectors but honestly this color wheel replacement is one of the easiest. You just need to take your time and don't be scared. Worse case you need a new projector and as it stands you need one anyway so you really have nothing to lose except a broken projector.
I have another color wheel (new) but it looks like the colors have blurred into one another. The red has yellow mixed in it. The blue and green have blank spaces... Should I just trash this?
Hey Frank, If the color on the wheel is faded off, from all the usage, is the wheel still OK? Should I get a new color wheel? The color on the screen has been fading in and out (greenish). And at times I a hear buzzing /grinding. Looking at the color wheel, I can tell that it's been rubbing on something, which may explain the sound. Can I send my unit to you to repair? Thanks!!!
I've honestly never heard of that happening! You might want to try cleaning the surface with some lens cleaner. You might just be seeing dirt that messes with the way the colors are reflected. Otherwise, yes a new color wheel should solve it.
Hi Frank! Love your videos. I have one of these and I am getting an error. So on the cover it says it is the lamp but on the control board it says it is the Temp. I've tried 2 different lamps, both fans seem to spin fine, and the thermal switch has cont. I've tried another ballast as well. I even pulled it out and jumpered the pins and I still get the error most of the time. Are there any thermistors anywhere in the system? Only other thing I can think of is the main board, at least according to the manual. Any thoughts are appreciated. Oh and the color wheel spins fine.
Its probably a fan even though they are spinning. The fan status wire can stop reporting properly, but the blades are still going. Check this video on testing fans, I think it'll get you closer. ruclips.net/video/kCOSQ8dVZvc/видео.html Thanks so much for your kind words! I hope the fan video helps you figure it out for sure. I have seen the blower fan do this more often than the exhaust fan but it can happen on either fan.
With my light tube assembly out, if I shine a light into tunnel and look into lens I see a surface that seems to be super dusty. I used air to blow off the light tunnel and the lens after it, the dust didn't change, should I remove lens to clean or not?
Less is more. Dust is ok to a degree. If you dont see blobs on the screen I'd leave it be. You can cause a lot of hassle moving or opening the light tunnel or optic assembly. Projectors are designed to handle some dust. They are never super clean so as long as your lamp assembly is good and the majority of the dust is gone you are ok. I'd try it where you are at and see how it looks.
@@FixitFrank Well I went and disassembled, to try and clean and man, are those lenses a pain when loose. I had to add a dab of super glue to hold that metal C clip down in the main housing, it kept falling out, and setting all three lenses in the part that removes. The smallest lens seemed to be still held on by that little black rubber tab on bottom but not the first fatter lens. It is now cleaner but I can still see dust on two layers when shining a flashlight into light tunnel and looking into lens. I tried. Probably not worth the effort due to minimal results. Couldn't have done the job without your videos. Thanks again.
Im glad to hear it! I happened to check your channel and we might be pretty close if you want me to take a look at it. I'm also SE PA. IF you want to email me, we can talk. I kind of want to talk to you anyway. I used to keep bees years ago and want to get back into it but I need someone to talk to who is currently involved and you seem to be the right guy to talk to.
@@FixitFrank I'm heavily involved in the Chester County Beekeeping Association, (as well as Montco, Philly Guild, and the Berks clubs. I am licensed and inspected to sell honeybees in PA as well. Get in touch. 484-752-2527. PS- I never did takes pics through lens to show the dust on two layers. Projector back in our theater and looking pretty good. Had some dangling bit internally that make a cloudy small waving blurr at top left middle of screen. Now it's not there and the unit got cleaned pretty good thanks to help from your videos.
Frank. Where can I get a “real” replacement for the Sunan turbo fan in my HD20. Have purchased 2 so far both pull the signal voltage to ground (27mV) when spinning. 3.25V when idle at system startup. System shuts down after about 20 seconds of turbo fan running. Original fan signal is at 1.7V when on - system runs but the bearings are shot and it’s LOUD. Guessing I keep getting cheap counterfits...
Hi Tom, before you buy another fan, try jumping the fan signal lead from another fan to the same input via a 1K resistor. I've found its a good way to make sure the fan IC on the board is not the problem. Its most likely the fan like you think, but just make sure. I get my fans from Time Electronics in China. They are on holiday until the 18th for lunar new year though. I've also found them on eBay searching for HD20,HD22 or HD23 fans.
@@FixitFrank thanks...good advice. I will try that. I am going back and forth with the old fan and new to see if I am getting consistent signal voltages or whether as you say there is something intermittent going on in the circuit.
@@FixitFrank signal always 1.7v with original running. Always drops to 27mV on signal line when new fan in system. Gonna try buying one from your recommended source.
@@tomkirby2355 I see a few that look safe on eBay. "gb1245PKVX-8AY" That is the part # you want to match. It has to match exactly so that you have the right status wire option. Another thing I noticed was the proper replacements already had the blue shrink tubing and proper connector already installed. As an example: www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-SUNON-GB1245PKV1-8AY-8UC01G001-FAN-FOR-OPTOMA-PROJECTOR-DC12V-1-2W/333454290610 I don't recommend this seller since the rating is kind of poor but the picture looks correct. I don't know if they are all celebrating the new year or if they are currently shipping but as long as you match that part # exactly, you should be ok. The fans you have sound like they are 'hi on stall'. How close are the part numbers?
I have the same model but have three horizontal lines on the upper half of the screen. I recently cleaned the projector as the screen was flashing from a dusty color wheel. Any suggestions on what is wrong?
I suspect your connection between the mainboard and the DMD/DLP board is not quite seated or has some debris in the connector. Vertical lines is almost always a connection problem between those 2 boards. If you had the mainboard out, that would be the first place I would check. Take out the screws and reseat the board. I suspect that will solve it for you.
@@FixitFrank I have taken it apart a few times to try and clean/reseat. I have not tried using a corrosion cleaner, yet. Also, the lines are Horizontal not Vertical. Would it still be the same thing?
Sorry about that. I am so used to seeing vertical line questions, my brain kind of replaced it. That is probably a different story. I would still suspect a connection but something to do with the rows instead of the columns. It still may be in that connection area. If it did not do it before you took it apart, there must be something interfering with a connection. If you didn't have the dlp chip/dmd out, I wouldn't worry about that. You may want to see if any "gentle" flexing changes the lines. Kind of twist the case ever so gently or apply pressure to an area to flex the board.
Hello, my Optoma uhd30 stopped working and not under warranty. I replaced lamp. Fan comes on but no light. Color wheel appears to not spin up and has a voltage. Sensors are clean and wheel spins freely. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hi Chris, did you try it with the lamp switch bypassed? I'm wondering if the lamp comes on for a brief moment? Did your old lamp burst or just stop lighting? Lastly what are the indication LEDs showing after it fails?
@@FixitFrank Hi there , thanks for getting back. After replacing power suply and lamp with no luck I cut my losses. Spoke with optama and a new mainboard was the cost of a ne projector. was hoping i could have fixed, but not this time. Thanks a bunch!
Can you please advise? Have have had the cycle of turning on with a flashing green light making the sound if the fans are engaging and eventually lights turning to red & orange. Have changed the bulb & initially the light cam on, but as I was re-fitting to the ceiling turned it off not to damage it. Have spent the day cleaning it & cannot get the projector to turn on with the blue screen, and now keep getting the flashing green to orange red lights! Can you please advise, have checked the colour wheel and I am feeling gutted that I may need to get a new projector after getting a new bulb!!!!!
Hi Mr frank I have a Optoma hd20 my unit plays ok for a minute then the color turns purple is that the color wheel bad if so can I ship to u to fix thanks
OMG Very nice video! You know what you are doing! I have the exact same projector, but it look like I don't know enough. I was wondering if you could validate what I am thinking. Symptom : After +/-30minutes of usage, the image flickering between normal and red-ichh.. What I have done : Changed the light, cleaned up the inside, both fans are running but it look like the blower one doesn't spin enough When it flickering, I blew some air manually inside from the side and the image come back to normal. it look like it's coming to hot, would you suggest to change the blower fan? or both of them? Thanks and once again I love the way you are showing your troubleshooting steps.. easy to understand!
That is most likely your color wheel. The reddish symptom is what makes me think that. also if you never have changed the color wheel, you are likely past due. Most of these are on wheel 3 or 4 by now. It's an easy replacement as you can see. The blower will spin alittle slower but dont worry unless it gives you a temp error. My suspicion is your color wheel.
It really depends on the model of projectors. Some use a cold mirror, some use 2 light tunnels. I have a video on a christie DHD670-E that I replace the cold mirror in. That is a dual lamp. I don't have anything right now to show dual lamp behavior on, but I will keep it in mind. Thanks for the suggestion/question!
@@FixitFrank I have a Barco DP1200 projector, the lamp source burned out. I removed the lamp house and adapted a 300w uhp lamp. I need two lamps to make 700w, but I don't know how to mix the two lamps. I need to see how the light mixes .. good moning
Ohhh. That isn't an option unfortunately. These are arc lamps and do not use a filament. You will damage the ballast at the worst, but more likely it won't light. The ignition voltage and run current are much different and not compatible between the Xenon and HG short arc lamps. You may actually need a 1200W XBO lamp depending on the specific projector. These all use Xenon which runs much differently than mercury vapor. These also need to be aligned so that you do not overheat the internals using the wrong lamp. Your best option is the proper lamp or you risk really ruining the projector.
I eliminated the house lamp, and the original ballast. I'm adapting a new ballast and two new lamps, they have 350w (mixed they go 700w). I'm using it on a screen with 150inch, so, I dont need 1200w to have a good image on it. So I'm reinventing my Barco for a more home use. Both lamps are in a heat filter, it's working with one lamp, but now the only thing I need to understand is: How can I make the prism or where can I found to buy it, to mix the lamps. Like u did it. Thanks!
Ahh, that makes much more sense. I was going to say, using the xenon driver that way would be a problem. I am not really sure though on how to combine them. You may want to look around for a 'cold mirror prism'. You may also want to try and find an old panasonic dual lamp projector or christie/Sanyo dual lamp to harvest optical parts from. This is a curious project, I would love to see it if you have any videos to share.
This was very helpful, thank you! However, it powers up as yours did, but nothing seems to be projecting. Lamp is on, and was replaced not that long ago. I think the wheel is making some noise, maybe I got a bad one. Any thoughts you may have would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks for the helpful video! Maybe you can give me another hint. While cleaning my HD131xe (which I'm very happy with) I apparently put dust behind the lens. There are now many stains on the picture. When I focus the dust, I see a lot of particles, almost like under a microscope. I have sprayed compressed air behind the left foam cover at the front of the lens. The projector is now very clean, but with many spots. Can I fix it and how? Thanks for an answer!
Hey Frank, Need your help again...I hope you can help me? I've got an estimate of $384.00 to REPAIR the LIGHT ENGINE of my Optoma hd20. I love my projector but it's 8 years old. Here is the issue: IT WORKS GREAT THE 1st 10 MINUTES, but AFTER THAT IT GETS BLURRY. THERE IS A NEW BULB NEW COLOR WHEEL INSTALLED IN THE PROJECTOR. What are your thoughts? Thanks a bunch!!!
Hola! That is insane! When you say blurry, do you mean the focus is off or something else? could you post a picture or video of the problem? I feel like I know these HD20s pretty good and think that $384 is way too much to quote someone.
I'm sorry. There just isn't much to show and its really difficult to get a camera inside the casing. I also figured it was kind of self explanatory. The clip lifts up and the wire comes out, The wires slides and the clip goes down. Its just a normal latching ZIF connector. Plus I have tons of other videos showing that sort of connector and it gets repetitive so I don't bother. What happened to your wire? Did the clip pop off?
@@FixitFrank the little connector was smaller than some of the videos I’ve seen and it came apart. I could hold the ribbon in there and make it connect but I couldn’t get it to stay. But I thought you needed the keyboard to use the remote but they are independent. Since it’s mounted upside down on the ceiling, I left it disconnected. But got it working.
@@alancham4 Thats awesome! Nice work! You are correct, they are independent (the IR and KB). Im glad to hear it worked out. next chassis I work on with that setup, I will be sure to show the connector. I appreciate you mentioning it.
Great video! I just finished watching your similar video on the HD20 from 3 years ago and was thrilled to see this updated vid! I didn't see (hear) the following mentioned in either video. When I'm cleaning my projector with compressed air, do I need to be concerned about dust getting into the light tunnel? I live by the adage that dust is the enemy of any optical components, especially ones made of glass. What's been your experience?
Most of the projectors in this category($1000-3000) tend to have a pretty sealed optical assembly. The dust should not really sit on the light tunnel or cause and problems for the most part. There is a gap between the end of the light tunnel that the fist lens that the dust should go past. They are designed to run correctly with a little dust so I mostly go for the large blobs of dust. The light itself should not suffer from dust blobs too much. Unless its in the DMD area. I try to use air as a way to loosen and release the dust so I can use the vacuum to collect it. Now inside the optical assembly I like to clean by hand. I do not want to scratch or damage that area since there is a picture.
Great video, thanks for sharing! If i have a "burn mark" at the bottom of the screen, would this be resolved by tightening/loosening the 2 screws on the light tunnel?
I'd have to see a picture to say for sure. Sometimes the shape lens in the optical housing can burn but if its a relatively straight line of a problem, then the light tunnel adjustment could help. If it's a roundish mark, then it might be something else.
@@GoatOfArmour Thats perfect! Yup that is a light tunnel issue for sure. You might have to take it out to -rebend the springs but try and adjust it first. You only need to remove and re-bend the return springs if you can't adjust it with the screws. Sometimes the segments lose their glue and one will come loose. That is worse case scenario and even then its not that bad. Just take your time and take lots of pictures.
While fixing my colour wheel, I completely removed my light tunnel screw and then put it back. I’m facing a misalignment at the top. I’m able to adjust the screw up till a point beyond which there is no change, but there is still misalignment. Does that mean that I need to rebend the springs?
@@MkHase most likely. The metal used is 'springy' but I don't think it's true spring steel. Or the heat as caused some annealing. Bending the springs a little will give you the extra push back you need.
I've always used CA(super glue). The heat does not seem to bother it once the tunnel is in position. Then as far as longevity, I know of at least 2 projectors with CA repairing the light tunnels that are still in use over 4 years later. I like to use the thicker/gap filling CA because its easier to prevent it from getting on the mirror surface like the thin stuff can do.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the reply... I didn't have any of the thick CA on hand so I am trying Bondic. The UV set was nice but we will see how it holds up to the heat. Thanks much for your vid, I had the exact same problem and didn't know it (tunnel not color wheel) until watching your vid.
@@3StorysProductions You're very welcome! Bondic will probably be fine. Once the mirrors are mounted and set, the chance of them moving again soon are pretty low anyway. I have some Bondic. The top temp from their website says 150c. I highly doubt the light tunnel gets up to 300F. I'll check some day but 300F sounds way too high. You've inspired me. The next light tunnel I do, I am going to try Bondic.
Hi Mr. FixitFrank I own Optoma HD131Xe, recently my projector is acting up. At first when the problem just happen, I give it a few smack and the picture comes back, now when the same issue comes I do the same, but no picture coming up at all. If there are pictures coming up, there are vertical lines all over the screen, but now the whole nothing comes up, all I see is the light source, no picture is showing at all. I wonder if this projector is fixable or doom. Please reply when you have a chance.
ruclips.net/video/CZfe_Z0Wjio/видео.html&ab_channel=mathew1224 I found this clip, similar problem like this clip, but in vertical. Shifted vertical pixels at first, now no pictures at all.
I think it might be fixable. Without it in front of me I have to guess a little but I think you had a bad connection between the DMD board and the mainboard. Smacking it would wiggle it enough to get it connected enough. Then over time it fell apart, probably from smacking it compounded with whatever made it loose in the first place (Bad assembly at coretronic is my guess). At this point you don't have anything to lose. All you have to do is take it apart and put it back together. I don't think I would go as far as taking the mainboard out but I would take the screws out and see if the mainboard is seated OK or if there is a wire pushing the mainboard up from the DMD board. Some of the larger wires can get pinched and push up in the wrong place. Basically something made the DMD and mainboard not to be seated. I would not just open the top and push down because you may have it pop right apart again. There is a good chance the screws in the bottom are going to spin(at least one). the plastic inside tends to get brittle around them. As long as you can get at least one screw back in you will be fine.
@@FixitFrank Hi Mr Frank, I just had chance to open up the projector, now the projector can project images from the source, but the vertical line still exists, is there anyway I can PM you?
@@DCHEN824 Sure! The problem is still with the DMD area. Either the connector or a pcb trace. You can reach me at rostit@ultrafark.com and I will reply from my personal email.
Hey Frank, Great break down! Can you help me? I have the same unit. I changed both the color wheel and bulb but now am getting a RED & AMBER warning light. Any suggestions on what I should do? I can't find any repair places near me in Indiana. Thanks!!!
How far are you from Indy? I know a place in town there who has some real good techs if you get really stuck. If you did not have that error before you disassembled, I would just go back over your work. Take it apart and put it back together again if you have to. There have been times where I did that 4-5 times. Most likely there is a wire not sitting straight or the something might not be connected. That thermal breaker comes to mind. The one that is mounted on the blower fan? Make sure that wire is plugged in. I have forgotten that wire more times than I can count.
I reviewed your video again and "IT WORKED!!!" Not sure if the color wheel wasn't seeded properly or what. But I have TV again. Because I replaced both the color wheel as well as replacing the bulb, it looks like a new projector. Frank, I can't thank you enough!!!! You Rock!!!
It's actually really easy to find online. And its Free! Just google Optoma HD20 Service manual. Elektrotanya.com has it among other places. What problem are you having?
I can't seem to find the schematic for the whole unit. Which part is causing problems? Other models share some parts and they may have schematics. If you had the 8pin chip in the power supply explode, the transformer is probably bad and you will need to replace the entire power supply. Whole parts for this model are not too expensive currently.
It could be. I hope it is not the problem. To change that, I think you need to program it with an EDID box. I would also check , U51(on top near the color wheel connector) and U49 (next to photo connector). Then on the bottom check for shorts(or just remove them), U55, U56, U57, U58(maybe just U55,U56 in the HD20, I am looking at an HD23mainboard). They are all TVS diode packs that are made to short to ground to protect MST3367. They are the small black components right behind the HDMI plug. Worse case, you can contact Crystal at Time Electronics for a used but good mainboard. GYDZ@timeprojectorlamp.com They are very good for parts.
Hi frank.. maybe an already answered question. In this case if its the problem with the color weel, than it issnt the lamp right? When do you know when you fix the color weel the lamp still works and is not the isseu. Grtz
Hi Frank. I really learned a lot from watching your thorough videos. I have a question for you. I'm new in the fixing projectors thing because I bought a ten year old Optoma eh1020 from work (60$). I put in a new lamp and that helped a little. I cleaned it from most of the dust (it had a lot!) and that also helped a little. I checked the color wheel and cleaned it and that helped a little. BUT I still have an overall problem with color representation. Especially the red and greens are "dim" and not vibrant but all colors look dimmed and "tired" in lack of better word. The reds look purple and dark. It might be all colors but it is most visible in the reds and greens. Maybe it's the contrast but nothing really happens when I try to calibrate the colors through the menu. Could it be the color wheel that is too old? Maybe the colors on the wheel have faded or it's spinning just a little slow? (the index mark looks fine) I'm thinking of just trying to change the color wheel with a new one and see if that helps, but do you have any other ideas of what might be the problem? If it's something out of my league, or the projector is just too old, I'll just give up on it. Thank you very much for your help, it is greatly appreciated! :-) All the best, Stig Hansen
Hi Stig! I'd be suspect of the lamp personally. Was it a name brand Osram inside? Also the surface you are projecting onto can affect the color brilliance in my experience. Personally I have never seen a color wheel lose its filtering ability from age. I suspect it is possible but I can't weigh in as I have never dealt with it. If you are projecting onto glossy white or flat white, that might be a problem. DLP prefers more of a grey background. Sherwin Williams paint had a grey color that really helped the colors "pop" (I dislike that term yet it is fitting). The lamp would be my first suspect. A non osram bulb may not have a proper gas mix inside. Second would be the screen. Replacing the color wheel is the same steps as with the HD20. They share a lamp and construction, but I doubt the color wheel is the issue.
@@FixitFrank It's an osram lamp indeed. I was actually able to crank a little bit more color out in the calibration. The screen is a super cheap IKEA window screen roller, quite white so I suspect that you could have a case with that. I'll try something more grey and made specifically for projection. Thank you very much! 🙂
HI, I find your videos very informative. Thank you for posting them. I have a specific issue with my BenQ W1400 I would really appreciate some guidance on. Generally the image is very good. Colours are as they should be, but in dark scenes, with small highlights, they have a blue cast, looking almost neon. I have cleaned the colour wheel and sensor. And I have adjusted the colour wheel offset in the service menu. Any help as to an alternate cause, greatly appreciated!
Curious. The lamp assembly or the screen actually might be the cause. The blue cast is what makes me think the lamp assembly. If it is not an original Osram lamp or Philips lamp, the color rendering may not be correct. Amazon lamps are known for this.
@@FixitFrank thank you for the suggestions and quick response. I was really stymied, but then found some suggested settings for all the picture settings so decided to try following that before going too in depth. I'm not sure which of the settings was the culprit, but the picture is great now. Hopefully it remains that way
Hi, i have problem with Optoma HD20, my color wheel exploded and i bought replacement color wheel on ebay and after i installed it the screen is very green, all is just green, is the color wheel bad or what could be the problem, the color settings doesnt help at all.
weird! I'd make sure you got a proper version of the wheel. It shoudl have just worked. There is a setting in the service menu called the index setting. Might be worth checking that but I'd make 100% sure you have a good color wheel.
i have a optoma HD23 none of my control buttons are working i can power it up with the projector and remote but i have to unplug it to turn it off i cant play no movies only thing it displays is hemi 2 1080p 60hz
Does it start to work normally after you unplug it and plug it back in? Since its the same as the HD20, I'd suspect the capacitors in the low voltage side of the power supply as being leaky/bad. It might be something else so be sure to check the voltages. The service manual for the HD20 should cover the same power supply. There is a chance it is a mainboard issue but since it does start up, I bet it's a power supply problem. If at some point HDMI1 was hit in a power surge that can also cause this sort of damage. When did the issue start?
@@FixitFrank I was changing the screen size on the settings on the projector and it just locked me out of the buttons I couldn't get no video on it it had been working fine until I tried to adjust the screen size
@@FixitFrank no it doesn't go back to working normally after I unplug it and plug it back in The only thing it does that I could touch the power of button and it starts up on the projector or on the remote but I can't turn it off with the button or the remote I have to unplug it but it doesn't play any movies it just displays that square with the HDMI 2 1080p that's all when it starts up it starts up normal with the advertisement of the name brand and then it goes to that display
@@robertgonzalez8069 I have one other suggestion. It is probably not the issue but just make sure the buttons on the keypad are not jammed. I highly doubt it, but that is one of those things that would drive me nuts until I found a stuck button.
@@robertgonzalez8069 Thanks for the explanation. That makes more sense. I'd still be suspect of the capacitors in the power supply, but it kind of sounds like possibly a mainboard/firmware problem. Check the voltages feeding the mainboard would be my first step.
I bought a colour wheel for my hd 25 that was supposed to be compatable,went through the same procedure as u installing it all I got was a green picture had to put the old one back in which is on it last legs very noisy .The hd20 wheel your using looks identical to mine ,and on ebay they say they sell a hd20 that's supposed to work in mine the hd 25 as well ,yr projecter looks exactly the same as mine .do you no the diameter of the wheel in yours of hand ?every seller on ebay apart from one sells wheels from china for mine the hd25 but the colour segments in the description apart from one seller the hd20 wheel looks rite for mine.
Hello Frank, I have watched many of your videos and appreciated your comment about trying to keep these projectors out of the landfills. I have an Optoma HD200X which has served us well for the past ~15 years and have been nursing it along recently with a new bulb and DIY repair to the color wheel (re-gluing 5 of 6 color segments into the motor) and a thorough cleaning (sadly the first in it's life with us). Since replacing the bulb, the unit inconsistently shuts down for 'Over Temperature' (per status led lights). Sometimes it will run fine, other times it will shut down in the first 10-15 minutes but will run fine after I reset the fault memory by unplugging the power cord. The blower/bulb fan was part of the cleaning and is seen running when I have tested the unit without the cover in place, similar for the main housing fan (which kicks into high when powering down properly). Do you have any recommendations for this random over temp shut down condition? The bulb is a Osram replacement bulb.
A second issue showed up since performing the above. I was starting to notice "cloudy" images, most noticeable on white image/scene, but visible on blue menu background as well. It was progressively getting worse, when I noticed a smell and saw fumes/smoke from the area of the light tunnel. I took the optic block/lens/color wheel assembly out (guided by your video) and discovered that my light tunnel glue was not holding to the metal sleeve (thankfully the mirrors are still together). The two adjusting screws seems to have 'resin' holding their threads (even with the optic block out I can't get a good purchase with my screw driver in the lower/rear facing screw head to turn it .. but will work on this carefully so I don't damage the screw head). Is the 'cloudy' (not sure if this is the term?) image/resolution a result of a loose or shifted light tunnel? Could the heat from the bulb (defective/hot bulb or insufficient blower/cooling fan) cause this area to get so hot that glue starts to smoke? I did not check the light tunnel with an IR temperature reader before shutting down.
Appreciate any recommendations you can provide.
Firstly thank you for the kind words! I appreciate that. Secondly I think you have a defective lamp assembly. It sounds like it has no IR filter. That would explain the temp warning and shut down. It would also explain the cloudy image. See if your new lamp assembly has the reddish blue tint to the lens or if it's greenish/clear. If it's greenish or clear, that is your root cause.
There is also a chance one of the fans is not working properly. Temp warning means either a true over temp situation or that a fan is failing. Hard to say which one without it here. I hope this gets you in the right direction!
Thanks, I compared the new bulb to the previous bulbs and was not able to get any type of tint, where as the old bulbs do.
Discovered why the cloudy image was happening … the 3rd (largest lens) in the optic block was melting and the brown residue was blocking the center and puddling at the bottom !! The convex side facing the mirror (which has a smoky film on it .. cloud causing) is now concave. The bulb must have turned into a laser? Are replacement lenses available?
Sadly, I took all this as the final straw and retired the projector. An Epson HC2250A has the throw distance (and price point) I want (14’-6” = 92” W). Do you have an opinion on the HC2250A?
Awesome video! Projector made a horrible noise that made me jump out of my seat to get away from it. After shutting down and disassembly I found a green segment had been thrown from the color wheel. I was ready to throw it out when I found this video on replacing the color wheel. The new color wheel went in easily as you demonstrated. Feeling cocky, I put everything back together without testing. When powering up the lights came on and everything looked good but there was a loud buzzing sound. I assumed it was the bulb at end of life so replaced the projector lamp. When trying to power up with the new lamp the green light illuminated but the projector lamp didn't come on. After a few seconds the cooling fan came on and the unit seemed to through the shutdown sequence. Further investigation and using your testing sequence led to the discovery that one of the color wheel segments was rubbing against the light tunnel frame. The wheel had stopped in the rubbing position and the motor wasn't strong enough to start the wheel spinning. If the wheel isn't spinning, the projector lamp does not illuminate. After pondering my options for a few days, I removed the optical assembly and used a dremel tool to shave off the end of the light tunnel frame that was touching the wheel. With no interference between the wheel and optical tunnel frame it started spinning on power up and the projector lamp illuminated.
I sure learned a lot and would not have attempted any of it without the lessons you provided in this video. Thank you!
Great job 👍
Hey Frank, great video! You always put some care and detail into each of your videos. Really appreciate your explanations and knowledge, I really learn a lot watching you work. Thanks to you I was able to diagnose a similar issue with the light tunnel with my projector that was causing a shadow on the bottom right on the screen. Cleaned up some old glue that had melted onto the calibration screws and calibrated the light tunnel to get rid of shadow. Much appreciated
Thanks for letting me know! This is why I keep putting the videos up. I'm learning as I go too. Granted I already made a lot of the mistakes so I make it look easy sometimes.
Seeing posts like yours where you were able to use the information is awesome 😊
instaBlaster.
I really like the patience you have when something goes a little wrong. I have this exact Optoma and it needs the color wheel replaced. My projects always turn out to be a major one. Wish you lived close to me so I could pay you. Lol
Thank you! I learned early on that stuff is going to happen and I can either deal with it or lose my mind. I like my mind and dont want to lose it so I take a step back, deal with it and move on. Granted I wish I was better about that with non electronic things in life!
If you're in the states, I do take in shipped projectors but honestly this color wheel replacement is one of the easiest. You just need to take your time and don't be scared. Worse case you need a new projector and as it stands you need one anyway so you really have nothing to lose except a broken projector.
I have another color wheel (new) but it looks like the colors have blurred into one another.
The red has yellow mixed in it. The blue and green have blank spaces...
Should I just trash this?
Amazing video! Buy what is what you adjust at the end with the screw driver and tweezer? Thanks!
Hey Frank,
If the color on the wheel is faded off, from all the usage, is the wheel still OK?
Should I get a new color wheel?
The color on the screen has been fading in and out (greenish). And at times I a hear buzzing /grinding.
Looking at the color wheel, I can tell that it's been rubbing on something, which may explain the sound.
Can I send my unit to you to repair?
Thanks!!!
I've honestly never heard of that happening! You might want to try cleaning the surface with some lens cleaner. You might just be seeing dirt that messes with the way the colors are reflected. Otherwise, yes a new color wheel should solve it.
Hi Frank! Love your videos. I have one of these and I am getting an error. So on the cover it says it is the lamp but on the control board it says it is the Temp. I've tried 2 different lamps, both fans seem to spin fine, and the thermal switch has cont. I've tried another ballast as well. I even pulled it out and jumpered the pins and I still get the error most of the time. Are there any thermistors anywhere in the system? Only other thing I can think of is the main board, at least according to the manual. Any thoughts are appreciated. Oh and the color wheel spins fine.
Its probably a fan even though they are spinning. The fan status wire can stop reporting properly, but the blades are still going. Check this video on testing fans, I think it'll get you closer. ruclips.net/video/kCOSQ8dVZvc/видео.html Thanks so much for your kind words! I hope the fan video helps you figure it out for sure. I have seen the blower fan do this more often than the exhaust fan but it can happen on either fan.
Hi frank would you happen to hav a video to change the light tunnel of an optoma hd33?
Im sorry I don't. for what its worth, its the same as this one. The HD33 and HD20 are essentially the same.
Mucho thanks for this! Mine is the HD39 Darbee but i think its almost the same inside.
With my light tube assembly out, if I shine a light into tunnel and look into lens I see a surface that seems to be super dusty. I used air to blow off the light tunnel and the lens after it, the dust didn't change, should I remove lens to clean or not?
Less is more. Dust is ok to a degree. If you dont see blobs on the screen I'd leave it be. You can cause a lot of hassle moving or opening the light tunnel or optic assembly. Projectors are designed to handle some dust. They are never super clean so as long as your lamp assembly is good and the majority of the dust is gone you are ok. I'd try it where you are at and see how it looks.
@@FixitFrank Well I went and disassembled, to try and clean and man, are those lenses a pain when loose. I had to add a dab of super glue to hold that metal C clip down in the main housing, it kept falling out, and setting all three lenses in the part that removes. The smallest lens seemed to be still held on by that little black rubber tab on bottom but not the first fatter lens. It is now cleaner but I can still see dust on two layers when shining a flashlight into light tunnel and looking into lens. I tried. Probably not worth the effort due to minimal results. Couldn't have done the job without your videos. Thanks again.
Im glad to hear it! I happened to check your channel and we might be pretty close if you want me to take a look at it. I'm also SE PA. IF you want to email me, we can talk. I kind of want to talk to you anyway. I used to keep bees years ago and want to get back into it but I need someone to talk to who is currently involved and you seem to be the right guy to talk to.
@@FixitFrank I'm heavily involved in the Chester County Beekeeping Association, (as well as Montco, Philly Guild, and the Berks clubs. I am licensed and inspected to sell honeybees in PA as well. Get in touch. 484-752-2527. PS- I never did takes pics through lens to show the dust on two layers. Projector back in our theater and looking pretty good. Had some dangling bit internally that make a cloudy small waving blurr at top left middle of screen. Now it's not there and the unit got cleaned pretty good thanks to help from your videos.
Frank. Where can I get a “real” replacement for the Sunan turbo fan in my HD20. Have purchased 2 so far both pull the signal voltage to ground (27mV) when spinning. 3.25V when idle at system startup. System shuts down after about 20 seconds of turbo fan running. Original fan signal is at 1.7V when on - system runs but the bearings are shot and it’s LOUD. Guessing I keep getting cheap counterfits...
Hi Tom, before you buy another fan, try jumping the fan signal lead from another fan to the same input via a 1K resistor. I've found its a good way to make sure the fan IC on the board is not the problem. Its most likely the fan like you think, but just make sure. I get my fans from Time Electronics in China. They are on holiday until the 18th for lunar new year though. I've also found them on eBay searching for HD20,HD22 or HD23 fans.
@@FixitFrank thanks...good advice. I will try that. I am going back and forth with the old fan and new to see if I am getting consistent signal voltages or whether as you say there is something intermittent going on in the circuit.
@@FixitFrank thanks to your videos I’ve gotten pretty quick at pulling this thing apart
@@FixitFrank signal always 1.7v with original running. Always drops to 27mV on signal line when new fan in system. Gonna try buying one from your recommended source.
@@tomkirby2355 I see a few that look safe on eBay. "gb1245PKVX-8AY" That is the part # you want to match. It has to match exactly so that you have the right status wire option. Another thing I noticed was the proper replacements already had the blue shrink tubing and proper connector already installed. As an example: www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-SUNON-GB1245PKV1-8AY-8UC01G001-FAN-FOR-OPTOMA-PROJECTOR-DC12V-1-2W/333454290610 I don't recommend this seller since the rating is kind of poor but the picture looks correct. I don't know if they are all celebrating the new year or if they are currently shipping but as long as you match that part # exactly, you should be ok. The fans you have sound like they are 'hi on stall'. How close are the part numbers?
I have the same model but have three horizontal lines on the upper half of the screen. I recently cleaned the projector as the screen was flashing from a dusty color wheel. Any suggestions on what is wrong?
I suspect your connection between the mainboard and the DMD/DLP board is not quite seated or has some debris in the connector. Vertical lines is almost always a connection problem between those 2 boards. If you had the mainboard out, that would be the first place I would check. Take out the screws and reseat the board. I suspect that will solve it for you.
@@FixitFrank I have taken it apart a few times to try and clean/reseat. I have not tried using a corrosion cleaner, yet. Also, the lines are Horizontal not Vertical. Would it still be the same thing?
Sorry about that. I am so used to seeing vertical line questions, my brain kind of replaced it. That is probably a different story. I would still suspect a connection but something to do with the rows instead of the columns. It still may be in that connection area. If it did not do it before you took it apart, there must be something interfering with a connection. If you didn't have the dlp chip/dmd out, I wouldn't worry about that. You may want to see if any "gentle" flexing changes the lines. Kind of twist the case ever so gently or apply pressure to an area to flex the board.
Hello, my Optoma uhd30 stopped working and not under warranty. I replaced lamp. Fan comes on but no light. Color wheel appears to not spin up and has a voltage. Sensors are clean and wheel spins freely. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hi Chris, did you try it with the lamp switch bypassed? I'm wondering if the lamp comes on for a brief moment?
Did your old lamp burst or just stop lighting? Lastly what are the indication LEDs showing after it fails?
@@FixitFrank Hi there , thanks for getting back. After replacing power suply and lamp with no luck I cut my losses. Spoke with optama and a new mainboard was the cost of a ne projector. was hoping i could have fixed, but not this time. Thanks a bunch!
Can you please advise? Have have had the cycle of turning on with a flashing green light making the sound if the fans are engaging and eventually lights turning to red & orange. Have changed the bulb & initially the light cam on, but as I was re-fitting to the ceiling turned it off not to damage it. Have spent the day cleaning it & cannot get the projector to turn on with the blue screen, and now keep getting the flashing green to orange red lights! Can you please advise, have checked the colour wheel and I am feeling gutted that I may need to get a new projector after getting a new bulb!!!!!
Hi Mr frank I have a Optoma hd20 my unit plays ok for a minute then the color turns purple is that the color wheel bad if so can I ship to u to fix thanks
Hi Dorothy, I am inbetween shops currently. i should be up and running in the next few weeks though.
OMG Very nice video! You know what you are doing! I have the exact same projector, but it look like I don't know enough. I was wondering if you could validate what I am thinking.
Symptom : After +/-30minutes of usage, the image flickering between normal and red-ichh..
What I have done : Changed the light, cleaned up the inside, both fans are running but it look like the blower one doesn't spin enough
When it flickering, I blew some air manually inside from the side and the image come back to normal.
it look like it's coming to hot, would you suggest to change the blower fan? or both of them?
Thanks and once again I love the way you are showing your troubleshooting steps.. easy to understand!
That is most likely your color wheel. The reddish symptom is what makes me think that. also if you never have changed the color wheel, you are likely past due. Most of these are on wheel 3 or 4 by now. It's an easy replacement as you can see. The blower will spin alittle slower but dont worry unless it gives you a temp error. My suspicion is your color wheel.
Good afternoon, you have a picture of how the prism tunnel for two lamps works on the DLP ptojetor, Thanks ...
It really depends on the model of projectors. Some use a cold mirror, some use 2 light tunnels. I have a video on a christie DHD670-E that I replace the cold mirror in. That is a dual lamp. I don't have anything right now to show dual lamp behavior on, but I will keep it in mind. Thanks for the suggestion/question!
@@FixitFrank I have a Barco DP1200 projector, the lamp source burned out. I removed the lamp house and adapted a 300w uhp lamp. I need two lamps to make 700w, but I don't know how to mix the two lamps. I need to see how the light mixes .. good moning
Ohhh. That isn't an option unfortunately. These are arc lamps and do not use a filament. You will damage the ballast at the worst, but more likely it won't light. The ignition voltage and run current are much different and not compatible between the Xenon and HG short arc lamps. You may actually need a 1200W XBO lamp depending on the specific projector. These all use Xenon which runs much differently than mercury vapor. These also need to be aligned so that you do not overheat the internals using the wrong lamp. Your best option is the proper lamp or you risk really ruining the projector.
I eliminated the house lamp, and the original ballast. I'm adapting a new ballast and two new lamps, they have 350w (mixed they go 700w). I'm using it on a screen with 150inch, so, I dont need 1200w to have a good image on it. So I'm reinventing my Barco for a more home use. Both lamps are in a heat filter, it's working with one lamp, but now the only thing I need to understand is:
How can I make the prism or where can I found to buy it, to mix the lamps. Like u did it.
Thanks!
Ahh, that makes much more sense. I was going to say, using the xenon driver that way would be a problem. I am not really sure though on how to combine them. You may want to look around for a 'cold mirror prism'. You may also want to try and find an old panasonic dual lamp projector or christie/Sanyo dual lamp to harvest optical parts from. This is a curious project, I would love to see it if you have any videos to share.
This was very helpful, thank you! However, it powers up as yours did, but nothing seems to be projecting. Lamp is on, and was replaced not that long ago. I think the wheel is making some noise, maybe I got a bad one. Any thoughts you may have would be greatly appreciated.
Excellent video. Thanks a ton.
Glad it was helpful!
Many thanks for the helpful video! Maybe you can give me another hint. While cleaning my HD131xe (which I'm very happy with) I apparently put dust behind the lens. There are now many stains on the picture. When I focus the dust, I see a lot of particles, almost like under a microscope. I have sprayed compressed air behind the left foam cover at the front of the lens. The projector is now very clean, but with many spots. Can I fix it and how? Thanks for an answer!
Hi Frank I have an optoma hd25 that has the same light tunnel issue. Can I ship to you for repair? Not sure I could do this.
Hi David, currently I am in between shops. I plan to be up and running in August.
Before you start pulling your projector apart, make sure its not on 3d mode, which causes colour fluxtuation and flickering
Hey Frank,
Need your help again...I hope you can help me?
I've got an estimate of $384.00 to REPAIR the LIGHT ENGINE of my Optoma hd20. I love my projector but it's 8 years old.
Here is the issue: IT WORKS GREAT THE 1st 10 MINUTES, but AFTER THAT IT GETS BLURRY. THERE IS A NEW BULB NEW COLOR WHEEL INSTALLED IN
THE PROJECTOR.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks a bunch!!!
Hola! That is insane! When you say blurry, do you mean the focus is off or something else? could you post a picture or video of the problem? I feel like I know these HD20s pretty good and think that $384 is way too much to quote someone.
I was waiting for you to show how you reattached the delicate ribbon from the keyboard as I had damaged mine the same way. Then you skipped over it.
I'm sorry. There just isn't much to show and its really difficult to get a camera inside the casing. I also figured it was kind of self explanatory. The clip lifts up and the wire comes out, The wires slides and the clip goes down. Its just a normal latching ZIF connector. Plus I have tons of other videos showing that sort of connector and it gets repetitive so I don't bother. What happened to your wire? Did the clip pop off?
@@FixitFrank the little connector was smaller than some of the videos I’ve seen and it came apart. I could hold the ribbon in there and make it connect but I couldn’t get it to stay. But I thought you needed the keyboard to use the remote but they are independent. Since it’s mounted upside down on the ceiling, I left it disconnected. But got it working.
@@alancham4 Thats awesome! Nice work! You are correct, they are independent (the IR and KB). Im glad to hear it worked out. next chassis I work on with that setup, I will be sure to show the connector. I appreciate you mentioning it.
Is it a RGBRGB color wheel?
That is correct. 6 segment RGBRGB.
@@FixitFrank Ok thanks!
Great video! I just finished watching your similar video on the HD20 from 3 years ago and was thrilled to see this updated vid!
I didn't see (hear) the following mentioned in either video. When I'm cleaning my projector with compressed air, do I need to be concerned about dust getting into the light tunnel? I live by the adage that dust is the enemy of any optical components, especially ones made of glass. What's been your experience?
Most of the projectors in this category($1000-3000) tend to have a pretty sealed optical assembly. The dust should not really sit on the light tunnel or cause and problems for the most part. There is a gap between the end of the light tunnel that the fist lens that the dust should go past. They are designed to run correctly with a little dust so I mostly go for the large blobs of dust. The light itself should not suffer from dust blobs too much. Unless its in the DMD area. I try to use air as a way to loosen and release the dust so I can use the vacuum to collect it. Now inside the optical assembly I like to clean by hand. I do not want to scratch or damage that area since there is a picture.
Great video, thanks for sharing! If i have a "burn mark" at the bottom of the screen, would this be resolved by tightening/loosening the 2 screws on the light tunnel?
I'd have to see a picture to say for sure. Sometimes the shape lens in the optical housing can burn but if its a relatively straight line of a problem, then the light tunnel adjustment could help. If it's a roundish mark, then it might be something else.
@@FixitFrank Here's a quick view of the issue: imgur.com/G9xaYbJ forgive the alignment (quick lash-up onto a wall) :D.
@@GoatOfArmour Thats perfect! Yup that is a light tunnel issue for sure. You might have to take it out to -rebend the springs but try and adjust it first. You only need to remove and re-bend the return springs if you can't adjust it with the screws. Sometimes the segments lose their glue and one will come loose. That is worse case scenario and even then its not that bad. Just take your time and take lots of pictures.
While fixing my colour wheel, I completely removed my light tunnel screw and then put it back. I’m facing a misalignment at the top. I’m able to adjust the screw up till a point beyond which there is no change, but there is still misalignment. Does that mean that I need to rebend the springs?
@@MkHase most likely. The metal used is 'springy' but I don't think it's true spring steel. Or the heat as caused some annealing. Bending the springs a little will give you the extra push back you need.
What type of glue/adhesive is recommended for the light tunnel?
I've always used CA(super glue). The heat does not seem to bother it once the tunnel is in position. Then as far as longevity, I know of at least 2 projectors with CA repairing the light tunnels that are still in use over 4 years later. I like to use the thicker/gap filling CA because its easier to prevent it from getting on the mirror surface like the thin stuff can do.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the reply... I didn't have any of the thick CA on hand so I am trying Bondic. The UV set was nice but we will see how it holds up to the heat. Thanks much for your vid, I had the exact same problem and didn't know it (tunnel not color wheel) until watching your vid.
@@3StorysProductions You're very welcome! Bondic will probably be fine. Once the mirrors are mounted and set, the chance of them moving again soon are pretty low anyway. I have some Bondic. The top temp from their website says 150c. I highly doubt the light tunnel gets up to 300F. I'll check some day but 300F sounds way too high.
You've inspired me. The next light tunnel I do, I am going to try Bondic.
Hi Mr. FixitFrank I own Optoma HD131Xe, recently my projector is acting up. At first when the problem just happen, I give it a few smack and the picture comes back, now when the same issue comes I do the same, but no picture coming up at all. If there are pictures coming up, there are vertical lines all over the screen, but now the whole nothing comes up, all I see is the light source, no picture is showing at all. I wonder if this projector is fixable or doom. Please reply when you have a chance.
ruclips.net/video/CZfe_Z0Wjio/видео.html&ab_channel=mathew1224
I found this clip, similar problem like this clip, but in vertical. Shifted vertical pixels at first, now no pictures at all.
I think it might be fixable. Without it in front of me I have to guess a little but I think you had a bad connection between the DMD board and the mainboard. Smacking it would wiggle it enough to get it connected enough. Then over time it fell apart, probably from smacking it compounded with whatever made it loose in the first place (Bad assembly at coretronic is my guess). At this point you don't have anything to lose. All you have to do is take it apart and put it back together. I don't think I would go as far as taking the mainboard out but I would take the screws out and see if the mainboard is seated OK or if there is a wire pushing the mainboard up from the DMD board. Some of the larger wires can get pinched and push up in the wrong place. Basically something made the DMD and mainboard not to be seated. I would not just open the top and push down because you may have it pop right apart again. There is a good chance the screws in the bottom are going to spin(at least one). the plastic inside tends to get brittle around them. As long as you can get at least one screw back in you will be fine.
@@FixitFrank Thanks so much for your reply, I will try to open up and give it a try, will update with you of the progress. Thanks so much again :)
@@FixitFrank Hi Mr Frank, I just had chance to open up the projector, now the projector can project images from the source, but the vertical line still exists, is there anyway I can PM you?
@@DCHEN824 Sure! The problem is still with the DMD area. Either the connector or a pcb trace. You can reach me at rostit@ultrafark.com and I will reply from my personal email.
Hey Frank, Great break down! Can you help me? I have the same unit. I changed both the color wheel and bulb but now am getting a RED & AMBER warning light. Any suggestions on what I should do? I can't find any repair places near me in Indiana. Thanks!!!
How far are you from Indy? I know a place in town there who has some real good techs if you get really stuck.
If you did not have that error before you disassembled, I would just go back over your work. Take it apart and put it back together again if you have to. There have been times where I did that 4-5 times. Most likely there is a wire not sitting straight or the something might not be connected. That thermal breaker comes to mind. The one that is mounted on the blower fan? Make sure that wire is plugged in. I have forgotten that wire more times than I can count.
I reviewed your video again and "IT WORKED!!!"
Not sure if the color wheel wasn't seeded properly or what. But I have TV again.
Because I replaced both the color wheel as well as replacing the bulb, it looks like a new projector.
Frank, I can't thank you enough!!!! You Rock!!!
Hi, please, did you have schematic this hd20 model to give me or buy?
It's actually really easy to find online. And its Free! Just google Optoma HD20 Service manual. Elektrotanya.com has it among other places. What problem are you having?
@@FixitFrank yep, i know, the manual service i got but not the schema.
I can't seem to find the schematic for the whole unit. Which part is causing problems? Other models share some parts and they may have schematics. If you had the 8pin chip in the power supply explode, the transformer is probably bad and you will need to replace the entire power supply. Whole parts for this model are not too expensive currently.
@@FixitFrank the problem is in the HDMI port.
I supouse the problem is in MST3367CMK-LF-170.
It could be. I hope it is not the problem. To change that, I think you need to program it with an EDID box.
I would also check , U51(on top near the color wheel connector) and U49 (next to photo connector). Then on the bottom check for shorts(or just remove them), U55, U56, U57, U58(maybe just U55,U56 in the HD20, I am looking at an HD23mainboard). They are all TVS diode packs that are made to short to ground to protect MST3367. They are the small black components right behind the HDMI plug.
Worse case, you can contact Crystal at Time Electronics for a used but good mainboard. GYDZ@timeprojectorlamp.com They are very good for parts.
Hi frank.. maybe an already answered question. In this case if its the problem with the color weel, than it issnt the lamp right? When do you know when you fix the color weel the lamp still works and is not the isseu. Grtz
That is correct. Sorry for the super late reply. Some how your comment did not show for me.
@@FixitFrank no worries you helpt a lot and its already fixed. Youre video were the answer!!!!
Amazing video!!!
Thank you!!
Hi Frank. I really learned a lot from watching your thorough videos. I have a question for you. I'm new in the fixing projectors thing because I bought a ten year old Optoma eh1020 from work (60$). I put in a new lamp and that helped a little. I cleaned it from most of the dust (it had a lot!) and that also helped a little. I checked the color wheel and cleaned it and that helped a little. BUT I still have an overall problem with color representation. Especially the red and greens are "dim" and not vibrant but all colors look dimmed and "tired" in lack of better word. The reds look purple and dark. It might be all colors but it is most visible in the reds and greens. Maybe it's the contrast but nothing really happens when I try to calibrate the colors through the menu. Could it be the color wheel that is too old? Maybe the colors on the wheel have faded or it's spinning just a little slow? (the index mark looks fine) I'm thinking of just trying to change the color wheel with a new one and see if that helps, but do you have any other ideas of what might be the problem? If it's something out of my league, or the projector is just too old, I'll just give up on it. Thank you very much for your help, it is greatly appreciated! :-) All the best, Stig Hansen
Hi Stig! I'd be suspect of the lamp personally. Was it a name brand Osram inside? Also the surface you are projecting onto can affect the color brilliance in my experience. Personally I have never seen a color wheel lose its filtering ability from age. I suspect it is possible but I can't weigh in as I have never dealt with it.
If you are projecting onto glossy white or flat white, that might be a problem. DLP prefers more of a grey background. Sherwin Williams paint had a grey color that really helped the colors "pop" (I dislike that term yet it is fitting).
The lamp would be my first suspect. A non osram bulb may not have a proper gas mix inside. Second would be the screen. Replacing the color wheel is the same steps as with the HD20. They share a lamp and construction, but I doubt the color wheel is the issue.
@@FixitFrank It's an osram lamp indeed. I was actually able to crank a little bit more color out in the calibration. The screen is a super cheap IKEA window screen roller, quite white so I suspect that you could have a case with that. I'll try something more grey and made specifically for projection. Thank you very much! 🙂
HI, I find your videos very informative. Thank you for posting them. I have a specific issue with my BenQ W1400 I would really appreciate some guidance on. Generally the image is very good. Colours are as they should be, but in dark scenes, with small highlights, they have a blue cast, looking almost neon. I have cleaned the colour wheel and sensor. And I have adjusted the colour wheel offset in the service menu. Any help as to an alternate cause, greatly appreciated!
Curious. The lamp assembly or the screen actually might be the cause. The blue cast is what makes me think the lamp assembly. If it is not an original Osram lamp or Philips lamp, the color rendering may not be correct. Amazon lamps are known for this.
@@FixitFrank thank you for the suggestions and quick response. I was really stymied, but then found some suggested settings for all the picture settings so decided to try following that before going too in depth. I'm not sure which of the settings was the culprit, but the picture is great now. Hopefully it remains that way
Hi, i have problem with Optoma HD20, my color wheel exploded and i bought replacement color wheel on ebay and after i installed it the screen is very green, all is just green, is the color wheel bad or what could be the problem, the color settings doesnt help at all.
weird! I'd make sure you got a proper version of the wheel. It shoudl have just worked. There is a setting in the service menu called the index setting. Might be worth checking that but I'd make 100% sure you have a good color wheel.
i have a optoma HD23 none of my control buttons are working i can power it up with the projector and remote but i have to unplug it to turn it off i cant play no movies only thing it displays is hemi 2 1080p 60hz
Does it start to work normally after you unplug it and plug it back in? Since its the same as the HD20, I'd suspect the capacitors in the low voltage side of the power supply as being leaky/bad. It might be something else so be sure to check the voltages. The service manual for the HD20 should cover the same power supply. There is a chance it is a mainboard issue but since it does start up, I bet it's a power supply problem.
If at some point HDMI1 was hit in a power surge that can also cause this sort of damage.
When did the issue start?
@@FixitFrank I was changing the screen size on the settings on the projector and it just locked me out of the buttons I couldn't get no video on it it had been working fine until I tried to adjust the screen size
@@FixitFrank no it doesn't go back to working normally after I unplug it and plug it back in The only thing it does that I could touch the power of button and it starts up on the projector or on the remote but I can't turn it off with the button or the remote I have to unplug it but it doesn't play any movies it just displays that square with the HDMI 2 1080p that's all when it starts up it starts up normal with the advertisement of the name brand and then it goes to that display
@@robertgonzalez8069 I have one other suggestion. It is probably not the issue but just make sure the buttons on the keypad are not jammed. I highly doubt it, but that is one of those things that would drive me nuts until I found a stuck button.
@@robertgonzalez8069 Thanks for the explanation. That makes more sense. I'd still be suspect of the capacitors in the power supply, but it kind of sounds like possibly a mainboard/firmware problem. Check the voltages feeding the mainboard would be my first step.
Make video on optoma or Epson full HD projector both HDMI input not working most common expensive fault thanks
Muito bom ! Vera goog ! Tks
I bought a colour wheel for my hd 25 that was supposed to be compatable,went through the same procedure as u installing it all I got was a green picture had to put the old one back in which is on it last legs very noisy .The hd20 wheel your using looks identical to mine ,and on ebay they say they sell a hd20 that's supposed to work in mine the hd 25 as well ,yr projecter looks exactly the same as mine .do you no the diameter of the wheel in yours of hand ?every seller on ebay apart from one sells wheels from china for mine the hd25 but the colour segments in the description apart from one seller the hd20 wheel looks rite for mine.
Hi, I have an optoma HD230X which is projecting inverted colors, what do you think could be the cause of it ?
sounds like the colour wheel index/offset setting needs tweaking. It is in the service menu