Thanks Frank. The video is EXCELLENT: very detailed and always in focus, accurate and with great audio. I was surprised to realize that I had EXACTLY the same problem with my old but great HD20 (including the problem of the plastic of the 2 screws…). Got the power supply from China ($57), and now it works great. Thanks!!!
Great job Frank. I'm working on a Benq TH670. It seems like the bulb is broken. Though the LED code shows that the color wheel should be bad. I will see soon when a replacement bulbs comes in. I would suggest getting a Hakko solder socker. it makes life so much easier. For me, those blue suckers never worked.
I love my sucker! I've had that particular pump since 1998. It's had 27 tips since then. I still have 3 left(it's how I know many). This pump is a large type. It actually works really well. The small ones are kind of a joke though. I have a powered Weller desoldering station with the foot pedal and all but I love my old hand solder sucker. It's had it's snout in a lot of gear since I first used it. That sucker and my Weller iron have been with me for over 20 years now. It's weird to think about...
Hello there Frank! In the past days I too learned a lot about Optoma (HD26) unfortunately. All is fixed, all is working, however, last time, when I put the housing together, the heat shield on the back of the DLP chip heat sink was loose. It reached the metal housing of the power supply board, caused a short, and blew a capacitor. In your video, at 13:42, on the left side of the board, it is the green, disk shaped capacitor. Thing is that, projector works perfectly (all functions, cooling, settings, ports etc). Do you (or anyone here) have any idea what is the function of that cap? I am planning to replace in 1 or 2 months, when I get a new color wheel, but it would nice to know, if it had only some auxiliary function I can live without. Thanks in advance!...unfortunately I haven't found any schematic/tech drawing either.
That is actually a resistor. Technically its called an NTC thermistor. It's job is to slow the inrush of current when the power supply starts up. I'd also check the large ceramic resistor that is connected to the negative lead of the bridge rectifier.
No but it is basically the same as the HD20. I do have a color wheel video and light tunnel alignment for the HD20. ruclips.net/video/_smYnIJKjYs/видео.html
Hi there! The specs are better on the models you list. They are a lot newer. I believe the HD20 was last made in 2013. The HD142-144x were made starting in 2016 and later. The HD20 is rated at 1700lumens. The HD models were much higher with less powerful bulbs. They are more efficient in light transfer. The HD20 is still a good projector. For being 7 years old, this one has a very nice picture. After I clean the mirror I will replace the lamp. On eBay US, I see the HD20 around $2-250, versus an HD142X for $500. The HD143x and 144x are export models here. I have seen the HD141 and HD142x and found them to be nice projectors for under $2000.
Hello Frank. Thank you so much for the in depth videos. I am on my second HD20, using the first as a parts machine. Recently it is having the following symptoms: the green power light flashes three times, and then the power light flashes amber while the lamp light illuminates steadily. the main lamp does not start and the color wheel does not spin. switching the mainboard did not solve the problem, infact all it would do is flash the green power led 6 times and then return to it's normal amber standby mode with spinning color wheel. Any tips you would offer?
Hmm. Kind of sounds like a lamp but also might be the lamp door switch. Check the lamp door switch and the filter caps in the power supply. the service manual is downloadable here. file.io/d2F15J7HrGfF
@@FixitFrank Thank you for the advice! It looks like that file has been deleted. I have looked at the service manual and all it says is that that led pattern means is "lamp failure" which isn't very helpful. I have three different lamps and none of them change the results. I will investigate what you suggest. Thanks!
I check the continuity of the fuse on my Optoma projector and nothing. But when I check the voltage on the power supply it shows voltage on the board except there is no power to the main board. So I don't get that or is it the fuse is for the main board an not the ballast. Oops made a novice mistake. I was testing with the positive terminal of the power plug connector not the fuse. Fuse is good, coapacitor are good, rectifier is good. So I'm guessing the fuse just may of had the issue.
@@FixitFrank I mean the powerboard code but as I can see it's not exactly the same I have. Anyway thankyou very much for your video I have to do something very similar to mine and your info is very helpfull
I have an hd33 and have been watching this testing video over and over again. If I run it assembled the bulb does not light and gives me an error of lamp failure. I tested voltage running to the bulb and it shows 96volts. I tested the power supply as per your video and it shows 9volts. I tested the cord and I get 120volts going in. How is it even possible to have 120 going in but only showing 9 volts to the ballast board. Any help would be great.
Sounds like your power supply is bad. Ballasts need 380vdc being fed to them. In the power supply there is a circuit called power factor correction that generated the 380vdc from the 120vac. If you only measure 9 then something is up or you're using the incorrect ground reference point. Ideally measure the voltage to the ballast across the dc input wire. If it's anything but 380ish it has a bad power supply. However I would make 100% sure you have a good lamp. A bad lamp will run you in circles. Don't buy a knock off lamp either. They will also cause problems. Make sure it's a name brand bulb(Osram) inside and has a good lens coating(red blue hue to it). Lastly don't measure the ballast output. During startup it can output thousands of volts and blow up your meter and or hurt you. See what you find voltage wise on that 380vdc input to the ballast(both pins).
FixitFrank where is this specific ground reference as used the ground wire off the power supply to the case. I also checked the voltage right from the power supply on dc right off the power supply board that outputs to the ballast controller? I have put in two legit osrams with the same results. Is there a way we can pm?
For measuring the 380DC to the ballast, I would measure across both pins that the wire is connected to. You can get the probes into the back of the connector. Then to measure the low voltage power to the mainboard, you can use the shielding on the casing as a ground. The two areas have different ground potentials so you can get weird readings.
FixitFrank I measured across both pins with the wire on the board and off and same voltage. I have ordered a new ballast/ power supply from AliExpress and hopefully that’s all it is. You can email me at bob_ n46@hotmail.com if you like to talk more.
I received the new power supply today and put in to check voltages and it’s 20v dc of the white wire to the ballasts using the ground off the heat sink on top. Are there certain things I have to have hooked up to get the proper voltages like the bulb door? Do I need a bulb in? I have to be missing something here it just doesn’t add up lol.
@@WilsonBradleyTheOfficial RUclips comments are confusing to me. I sometimes get comments that were posted some time ago as "new" but in spam even though its a follow up from someone I clicked as not spam. I have a source for the entire power supply, $60-70 if I recall.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for replying. I replaced the same IC chip and still no go.. so its prob. time to upgrade. I found a 4k projector on Sale at Amazon for $539 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HH68M8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - long shipping wait though..
Many thanks Fixit Frank, as your videos inspired me to dismantle my Optoma HD23 with similar 'no startup from stand-by' troubles, due to a bad power supply unit. As HD23 parts (power supply) apparently are much more difficult to find than HD20, could you confirm that HD23 and HD20 use similar power supply and I can use an HD20 power supply in my HD23? Thanks for your advice and succes with all future projects!!
@@FixitFrank That is very hopeful Frank, Thanks! And in more detail : Can a CT-319 - the LVPS I ordered - (for HD20), properly replace a CT-320B3 which is the ID-code on the LVPS of the Optoma HD23? And how to know? As Optoma says, it is different types, but what is different, how to know?? Thanks in advance!
That I do not know. I don't have any literature that explains the two. The important parts are that it fits, and has the right connectors. As long as they are the same, it should be okay.
Hi Frank! Thanks a lot for all great videos! My Optoma HD200X (same as HD20) has a strange issue which i can not find any similar cases of. The Main bulb is strobing/flashing every second and makes a popping sound. No error lamps is turned on. Only power light is flashing green as it does during start-up. I removed main bulb and the popping sound persist. I followed your ballast diagnosis video and can not find any fault on that board. If removing power wire coming from the main power board the popping sound stops. Messured 320 Volt output from main power board to the ballast. Tested with another known good main power board and projector did now start up as normal with picture and everyting for about 3 minutes. Then projector shutted down and popping sound is back and also the main bulb strobing. Is it the ballast board that is causing this or what do you think ? Greetings from Sweden. BR Emil
Greetings from Pennsylvania! 320V from the main supply tells me your power factor correction circuit is not working. You should have 380-400V at the ballast if you line voltage is 220-240ac. That is why your lamp is strobing. The ballast is almost getting enough power but not quite. The power supply has a large mosfet that handled the PFC that crates your 380VDC. I would check that large FET first. That said, a new power supply is pretty easy to find and PFC errors can be a huge pain without access to parts. I have a contact in China if you need it. Let me know if you do. I want to say I paid $40-60 US for a new power supply for an HD20. Focus on the main power supply and the components that feed the ballast, One of them is your problem.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for your reply :) I just received a new main power supply from china, put that one in and everything worked fine for about 3 minutes. Then same issue came along again with lamp strobing. Im just wondering if you think something on the ballast is causing this voltage drop from the power supply as it happend on 2 power supply boards now. BR Emil
@@in0012 I follow you now. It might be something on the ballast end pulling it down. I think I would see what part on the power supply is failing. Then you will know if its the ballast putting too much load. Have you checked the ballast for any shorted or leaking mosfets? One pair is for ignition of the lamp, the other pair is for running the lamp. I would see if one pair of mosfets checks out differently than the other pair. Of course you could just throw another ballast at it, but would still see what failed on the power supply. If it is cost effective , replacing the power supply and ballast together would probalby solve your problem. I should ask about the lamp. Is it using a proper osram bulb inside? A poor quality lamp may cause this too.
@@FixitFrank Ok, thanks for the info. i will check the ballast once again and compare the mosfests on it. I just did a quick test and removed the power wire from the main supply and it is showing 379 volt so hopefully the new supply board has not taken any damage. Lamp is still the original osram lamp. never been replaced. Thanks, Emil
@@in0012 Hi Emil, If the lamp is orignal...that might be your problem. The flickering you describe is a symptom of a failing lamp. You may want to try another lamp if you have access to one. Even though it may be lighting, if it was run in eco mode for a while, the arc points can get a buildup of scale that will prevent a clean arc. However, since you said the voltage went back up to 380 with the ballast removed, that is encouraging. Check the stand alone FET too. It is the "switch" that enables the ballast. If it is leaky or failing it may be the reason too. I think you are getting very close. My money is leaning towards the ballast.
Hi Tibor, I did some research and verified the epsons use software for the 3d. I'm trying to track down a service manual in your series. That will tell us more.
If I say no, then it will end up being bad. However I kind of doubt it. The fact that is works, just in 3D mode makes me think its software. The software is going to tell the chip or chips to change the image properties. What I don't know is if the change is handled by the hdmi chip or by the main microcontroller or if there is another chip that only handles when its in 3D mode. Can you get me a few high res pics of the mainboard? Whatever side has all the chips or both sides if possible. Another thing to try is talking to the projector via RS232. You might be able to force a reset or mode change. You will need a terminal program like Putty or Hyperterminal, a null modem cable (DB9) and a usb-serial (or a pc with a real serial port). Go through here epson.com/Support/wa00573a for the zip file with serial commands and terminal setup. It's in excel format which is unusual, but on the TW6100 worksheet, there is a list of commands to send via RS232. One of the commands batches has a lot of 3D specific settings. You may find the setting there that will straighten it out. I would verify the software before going after the hardware. The software will actually be easier to rule out. If you go through all of the possible commands via RS232, then it might be a bit of hardware. I will look at the pics of the mainboard when you get them and I will try and determine what is controlling the 3D. My worry is that the problem is a separate micro controller. Replacing the chip itself wont fix it unless you can load its firmware which is not available to you or me.
@@FixitFrank My model is the 3020e, that would be the TW6100, right? It has to be RS232, I'm not sure if I have a PC, with that input. I have serial to USB adapter and Putty though. It has to be both connected to the PC?
@@19mati67 Correct. The serial to usb gets you to the RS232 port(serial is usually RS232). The TW6100 section is where the 3020E commands are located. Putty is how you talk to the projector, the serial to usb cable is how you conenct to it.
Thanks Frank. The video is EXCELLENT: very detailed and always in focus, accurate and with great audio. I was surprised to realize that I had EXACTLY the same problem with my old but great HD20 (including the problem of the plastic of the 2 screws…). Got the power supply from China ($57), and now it works great. Thanks!!!
Great job Frank. I'm working on a Benq TH670. It seems like the bulb is broken. Though the LED code shows that the color wheel should be bad. I will see soon when a replacement bulbs comes in. I would suggest getting a Hakko solder socker. it makes life so much easier. For me, those blue suckers never worked.
I love my sucker! I've had that particular pump since 1998. It's had 27 tips since then. I still have 3 left(it's how I know many). This pump is a large type. It actually works really well. The small ones are kind of a joke though. I have a powered Weller desoldering station with the foot pedal and all but I love my old hand solder sucker. It's had it's snout in a lot of gear since I first used it. That sucker and my Weller iron have been with me for over 20 years now. It's weird to think about...
@@FixitFrank It ended up, only a bad bulb. Replaced it and already sold it($380 !). Today, I will pick up a W1070, which is completely dead.
Found that i was looking for! That hidden door switch at 8:25
Hello there Frank! In the past days I too learned a lot about Optoma (HD26) unfortunately. All is fixed, all is working, however, last time, when I put the housing together, the heat shield on the back of the DLP chip heat sink was loose. It reached the metal housing of the power supply board, caused a short, and blew a capacitor. In your video, at 13:42, on the left side of the board, it is the green, disk shaped capacitor.
Thing is that, projector works perfectly (all functions, cooling, settings, ports etc). Do you (or anyone here) have any idea what is the function of that cap? I am planning to replace in 1 or 2 months, when I get a new color wheel, but it would nice to know, if it had only some auxiliary function I can live without. Thanks in advance!...unfortunately I haven't found any schematic/tech drawing either.
That is actually a resistor. Technically its called an NTC thermistor. It's job is to slow the inrush of current when the power supply starts up. I'd also check the large ceramic resistor that is connected to the negative lead of the bridge rectifier.
Ah I see. This case I guess I’ll do a quick check / replace tomorrow. Thanks for the quick reply! :)
Do you have any videos on how to change the light tunnel on optoma hd33
No but it is basically the same as the HD20. I do have a color wheel video and light tunnel alignment for the HD20. ruclips.net/video/_smYnIJKjYs/видео.html
Hello. Do you know if this model is better than models hd 142x, 143x or 144x ?
Hi there! The specs are better on the models you list. They are a lot newer. I believe the HD20 was last made in 2013. The HD142-144x were made starting in 2016 and later. The HD20 is rated at 1700lumens. The HD models were much higher with less powerful bulbs. They are more efficient in light transfer. The HD20 is still a good projector. For being 7 years old, this one has a very nice picture. After I clean the mirror I will replace the lamp. On eBay US, I see the HD20 around $2-250, versus an HD142X for $500. The HD143x and 144x are export models here. I have seen the HD141 and HD142x and found them to be nice projectors for under $2000.
My one has power click on but switch off after....what is it?
Hello Frank. Thank you so much for the in depth videos. I am on my second HD20, using the first as a parts machine. Recently it is having the following symptoms: the green power light flashes three times, and then the power light flashes amber while the lamp light illuminates steadily. the main lamp does not start and the color wheel does not spin. switching the mainboard did not solve the problem, infact all it would do is flash the green power led 6 times and then return to it's normal amber standby mode with spinning color wheel. Any tips you would offer?
Hmm. Kind of sounds like a lamp but also might be the lamp door switch. Check the lamp door switch and the filter caps in the power supply. the service manual is downloadable here. file.io/d2F15J7HrGfF
@@FixitFrank Thank you for the advice! It looks like that file has been deleted. I have looked at the service manual and all it says is that that led pattern means is "lamp failure" which isn't very helpful. I have three different lamps and none of them change the results. I will investigate what you suggest. Thanks!
I check the continuity of the fuse on my Optoma projector and nothing. But when I check the voltage on the power supply it shows voltage on the board except there is no power to the main board. So I don't get that or is it the fuse is for the main board an not the ballast. Oops made a novice mistake. I was testing with the positive terminal of the power plug connector not the fuse. Fuse is good, coapacitor are good, rectifier is good. So I'm guessing the fuse just may of had the issue.
Same happens to me in an optoma HD66. That board is the 258C?
258C ? I apologize. I am not sure what you mean?
@@FixitFrank I mean the powerboard code but as I can see it's not exactly the same I have.
Anyway thankyou very much for your video I have to do something very similar to mine and your info is very helpfull
Ohhh! I got you. Yeah they are different. Similar though like you said.
I have an hd33 and have been watching this testing video over and over again. If I run it assembled the bulb does not light and gives me an error of lamp failure. I tested voltage running to the bulb and it shows 96volts. I tested the power supply as per your video and it shows 9volts. I tested the cord and I get 120volts going in. How is it even possible to have 120 going in but only showing 9 volts to the ballast board. Any help would be great.
Sounds like your power supply is bad. Ballasts need 380vdc being fed to them. In the power supply there is a circuit called power factor correction that generated the 380vdc from the 120vac. If you only measure 9 then something is up or you're using the incorrect ground reference point. Ideally measure the voltage to the ballast across the dc input wire. If it's anything but 380ish it has a bad power supply. However I would make 100% sure you have a good lamp. A bad lamp will run you in circles. Don't buy a knock off lamp either. They will also cause problems. Make sure it's a name brand bulb(Osram) inside and has a good lens coating(red blue hue to it). Lastly don't measure the ballast output. During startup it can output thousands of volts and blow up your meter and or hurt you. See what you find voltage wise on that 380vdc input to the ballast(both pins).
FixitFrank where is this specific ground reference as used the ground wire off the power supply to the case. I also checked the voltage right from the power supply on dc right off the power supply board that outputs to the ballast controller? I have put in two legit osrams with the same results. Is there a way we can pm?
For measuring the 380DC to the ballast, I would measure across both pins that the wire is connected to. You can get the probes into the back of the connector. Then to measure the low voltage power to the mainboard, you can use the shielding on the casing as a ground. The two areas have different ground potentials so you can get weird readings.
FixitFrank I measured across both pins with the wire on the board and off and same voltage. I have ordered a new ballast/ power supply from AliExpress and hopefully that’s all it is. You can email me at bob_ n46@hotmail.com if you like to talk more.
I received the new power supply today and put in to check voltages and it’s 20v dc of the white wire to the ballasts using the ground off the heat sink on top. Are there certain things I have to have hooked up to get the proper voltages like the bulb door? Do I need a bulb in? I have to be missing something here it just doesn’t add up lol.
I have the same at home with the same problem / sames composants was fault on power pcb
I wonder if that transformer is shoddy? I have seen this happen on many HD20s.
@@FixitFrank Same here.. Got the chip in yesterday and will swap..From Part 2, seems the transformer is no avail and so will be ditching it.
@@FixitFrank BTW: not sure what's going on , but you might not get a response... I asked , never got a response in part #2.
@@WilsonBradleyTheOfficial RUclips comments are confusing to me. I sometimes get comments that were posted some time ago as "new" but in spam even though its a follow up from someone I clicked as not spam.
I have a source for the entire power supply, $60-70 if I recall.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for replying. I replaced the same IC chip and still no go.. so its prob. time to upgrade. I found a 4k projector on Sale at Amazon for $539 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HH68M8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - long shipping wait though..
Many thanks Fixit Frank, as your videos inspired me to dismantle my Optoma HD23 with similar 'no startup from stand-by' troubles, due to a bad power supply unit. As HD23 parts (power supply) apparently are much more difficult to find than HD20, could you confirm that HD23 and HD20 use similar power supply and I can use an HD20 power supply in my HD23? Thanks for your advice and succes with all future projects!!
I had to find the one I had in scrap to check and it does look like they are the same.
@@FixitFrank That is very hopeful Frank, Thanks! And in more detail : Can a CT-319 - the LVPS I ordered - (for HD20), properly replace a CT-320B3 which is the ID-code on the LVPS of the Optoma HD23? And how to know? As Optoma says, it is different types, but what is different, how to know?? Thanks in advance!
That I do not know. I don't have any literature that explains the two. The important parts are that it fits, and has the right connectors. As long as they are the same, it should be okay.
Hi Frank! Thanks a lot for all great videos! My Optoma HD200X (same as HD20) has a strange issue which i can not find any similar cases of. The Main bulb is strobing/flashing every second and makes a popping sound. No error lamps is turned on. Only power light is flashing green as it does during start-up. I removed main bulb and the popping sound persist. I followed your ballast diagnosis video and can not find any fault on that board. If removing power wire coming from the main power board the popping sound stops. Messured 320 Volt output from main power board to the ballast. Tested with another known good main power board and projector did now start up as normal with picture and everyting for about 3 minutes. Then projector shutted down and popping sound is back and also the main bulb strobing. Is it the ballast board that is causing this or what do you think ? Greetings from Sweden. BR Emil
Greetings from Pennsylvania! 320V from the main supply tells me your power factor correction circuit is not working. You should have 380-400V at the ballast if you line voltage is 220-240ac. That is why your lamp is strobing. The ballast is almost getting enough power but not quite. The power supply has a large mosfet that handled the PFC that crates your 380VDC. I would check that large FET first. That said, a new power supply is pretty easy to find and PFC errors can be a huge pain without access to parts. I have a contact in China if you need it. Let me know if you do. I want to say I paid $40-60 US for a new power supply for an HD20. Focus on the main power supply and the components that feed the ballast, One of them is your problem.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for your reply :) I just received a new main power supply from china, put that one in and everything worked fine for about 3 minutes. Then same issue came along again with lamp strobing. Im just wondering if you think something on the ballast is causing this voltage drop from the power supply as it happend on 2 power supply boards now. BR Emil
@@in0012 I follow you now. It might be something on the ballast end pulling it down. I think I would see what part on the power supply is failing. Then you will know if its the ballast putting too much load. Have you checked the ballast for any shorted or leaking mosfets? One pair is for ignition of the lamp, the other pair is for running the lamp. I would see if one pair of mosfets checks out differently than the other pair. Of course you could just throw another ballast at it, but would still see what failed on the power supply. If it is cost effective , replacing the power supply and ballast together would probalby solve your problem. I should ask about the lamp. Is it using a proper osram bulb inside? A poor quality lamp may cause this too.
@@FixitFrank Ok, thanks for the info. i will check the ballast once again and compare the mosfests on it. I just did a quick test and removed the power wire from the main supply and it is showing 379 volt so hopefully the new supply board has not taken any damage. Lamp is still the original osram lamp. never been replaced.
Thanks, Emil
@@in0012 Hi Emil, If the lamp is orignal...that might be your problem. The flickering you describe is a symptom of a failing lamp. You may want to try another lamp if you have access to one. Even though it may be lighting, if it was run in eco mode for a while, the arc points can get a buildup of scale that will prevent a clean arc.
However, since you said the voltage went back up to 380 with the ballast removed, that is encouraging. Check the stand alone FET too. It is the "switch" that enables the ballast. If it is leaky or failing it may be the reason too. I think you are getting very close. My money is leaning towards the ballast.
great video ..... i have the same and power supply its a problem on me one also .... good picture but poor build quality
Frank, do you know how a projector works in 2D and 3D? It is software, or hardware based? (Epson 3 LCD)
Hi Tibor, I did some research and verified the epsons use software for the 3d. I'm trying to track down a service manual in your series. That will tell us more.
@@FixitFrank Thank you Frank. I appreciate it. SM will be hard to find. I'm wondering, if an IC that switches 2D to 3D may be damaged?
If I say no, then it will end up being bad. However I kind of doubt it. The fact that is works, just in 3D mode makes me think its software. The software is going to tell the chip or chips to change the image properties. What I don't know is if the change is handled by the hdmi chip or by the main microcontroller or if there is another chip that only handles when its in 3D mode. Can you get me a few high res pics of the mainboard? Whatever side has all the chips or both sides if possible.
Another thing to try is talking to the projector via RS232. You might be able to force a reset or mode change. You will need a terminal program like Putty or Hyperterminal, a null modem cable (DB9) and a usb-serial (or a pc with a real serial port).
Go through here epson.com/Support/wa00573a for the zip file with serial commands and terminal setup.
It's in excel format which is unusual, but on the TW6100 worksheet, there is a list of commands to send via RS232. One of the commands batches has a lot of 3D specific settings. You may find the setting there that will straighten it out. I would verify the software before going after the hardware. The software will actually be easier to rule out. If you go through all of the possible commands via RS232, then it might be a bit of hardware.
I will look at the pics of the mainboard when you get them and I will try and determine what is controlling the 3D. My worry is that the problem is a separate micro controller. Replacing the chip itself wont fix it unless you can load its firmware which is not available to you or me.
@@FixitFrank My model is the 3020e, that would be the TW6100, right? It has to be RS232, I'm not sure if I have a PC, with that input. I have serial to USB adapter and Putty though. It has to be both connected to the PC?
@@19mati67 Correct. The serial to usb gets you to the RS232 port(serial is usually RS232). The TW6100 section is where the 3020E commands are located. Putty is how you talk to the projector, the serial to usb cable is how you conenct to it.