Horizontal Boring Mill Restoration: Reassembling the Saddle and Cutting Oil Grooves
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- Опубликовано: 23 фев 2023
- Horizontal Boring Mill Restoration: Reassembling the Saddle and Cutting Oil Grooves
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It has been very enjoyable watching you rebuild this Lucas Boring Mill. As a young man I cut my teeth on the same machine. With a little imagination you can make almost any machined part on this machine.
Thank You
Bill
I noticed Keith's Philmont belt. My uncle, for whom I am his namesake, went there. I don't know if as a scout or leader. He wore his belt a lot. He would be about 90 yo by now. Seeing Keith's belt took me back in time to fondly remember days spent with a terrific uncle.
Being a scouter for many years I recognized Keith's belt right away. Keith has worn it in many of his videos. Nice to know Keith is a fellow scouter!
OH the joys of working by your self!
Keith, if you listen very carefully you will hear all of us high fiving clapping and cheering for you.
Art from Ohio
It's never too early to get the grandkids into the shop! Hands and eyes, right! Great work, as usual. Thanks for the videos.
Exciting to see it getting close to being back in service and working as originally designed! I am looking forward to seeing it working and making chips.
Those mechanical power feeds are really impressive in their engineering. Thanks for demonstrating them so clearly.
The engineering and manufacturing quality they put into that thing is really really impressive.
Man if I didn't live all the way in New York I'd come over and give you a hand whenever you wanted Keith. 👍👍
I can't wait to see the project that you need the boring machine for.
You do a great job of restoring old iron.
Good morning Keith!😀
your lifes work is going to be seen for years and years to come. The work it took to build these machines seems to be lost except for what ever documents/photos were left behind for us to decipher. Your videos are going to be.a valuable resource for many years to come.
I love old iron and those like you that love it too. Saved two machines myself that were sitting outside for years. Luckily I got them before they were too far gone and bought them back to life.
Love what you are doing. I watch every video.
Thanks for sharing your interesting assembly job with us. I could feel your pain getting all those shafts and gears lined up and fitted together. Looking forward to seeing this big boy running again.
Great seeing the progress on the big iron lump, cannot wait to see it in action
Coming together. Will be real nice once it is done. Thanks for sharing.
Just wanted to say I think you finally got it down and it looking good. Thanks for sharing your expertise. Looking forward to the rest of it.
Exciting stuff! “We’ve never been closer!”
so pleased to see the saddle assembled and back on the boring mill well done keith!
Enjoying this series, as with all your projects. Well done on the weight loss, looks like it's going well!
Nice to see you found your groove;)
Geez you're really carving it up out here aren't ya 😜🤣 that was a great pun, you got a thumbs up from me lol
Had same sort of joke in my mind 😁😉
Closer & closer. With patience and enough fiddling, almost anything is possible.
As many have said already, it's exciting to see this coming together. Each installment cause anticipation for the next. Thanks Keith.
Thanks for the video Keith, you're really good with the audio and such.
I like your belt. T2010 Texas.
Very, very cool Keith
Nice one Keith and nearly there.
Good morning Keith. Great progress.
Thanks, Keith. Great video.
A beautiful beast comes together!
Great progress Keith.👍🇦🇺
If you have to epoxy turcite under the tail stock or back ways don't use cling wrap to line the ways. Use plain old kitchen waxed paper.
As you surely know most epoxies do not stick to plastics well. The epoxy used for turcite has obviously been formulated to stick to plastic, which is why the cling wrap did not come off the ways cleanly.
Nothing stick to paraffin, which is what wax paper is made with. Wax paper should peel off the epoxy cleanly.
Of course, it's always best to test first.
Just a notion.
GREAT JOB
Thanks for sharing 👍
This was a big step forward !
Hiya Keith
Thank you for sharing.👍
Thanks. I look forward to seeing how this is used.
Great work, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing
Looking good Keith!
Nice!! 🙂
Really please for you well done. Very interested in this entire project
Great video Keith, keep'um coming.
Most excellent.
A gorgeous job
Another great "how to" video.😀
KEITH, COMING WRIGHT ALONG A GREAT JOB, TELL ALL HELLO...SEE YOU WHEN...
I wonder if this might be better done with carving tools where the turkite be grooved with semi-circular grooves instead of abrupt deep cuts. The worm gear my work for a long time, but what about backlash, play in the shaft before the bed moves in any direction. Would this be a bother or something you can deal with when you get the feel of it? I'll bet you are one happy guy to have this together. Nice job.
The instructions from Turcite (spelled with a c not a k) state to make the grooves no deeper than half the thickness of the Turcite. My milling machine had the grooves all the way through from the manufacturer and the way oil destroyed the adhesive bond. When I was reconditioning it the Turcite fell off when I took the machine apart. So on that basis I think Keith screwed up. I cut the new grooves in my machine with a round cutter in a Dremel tool so they had the profile you suggest. I don't know if that profile is better or not.
I'm curious if Keith or anyone else repairing old machines think adding a discreet brass tag outlining they restored or repaired something on the machine and when? Or would that be a general waste of time and brass?
I don't think that would be any different than woodworkers branding pieces they make. It would be nice for a future owner to know what was done to a machine and when.
Makes me wonder if these videos will still exist 100 years from now and how hard it will be to find them. What a boon they would be for the next Keith Rucker that comes along.
You are an absolute perfectionist! I also like to work very accurately, but you put the crown on everything! 👏👍🛠😎
Best regards from Dresden! 🇩🇪❤🇺🇸
have you ever used Rulon for your project. we used it on injection equipment under the moving carriage along with bronze. worked great for us
I am looking carefully at all your videos where you have applied turcite, and I know from the turcite specifications, that you should not cut the oil grooves so deep that its passing through it.
Here I see that your oil grooves went up to the cast iron. Do you think that may end up being an issue?
Also I saw on one of your videos that you have applied turcite on the bottom of a X axis slide. I am planning to do the same thing on my machine. Do you think that may become an issue with chips getting embedded into the soft turcite, then rubbing & scratching the bottom surface?
Put some wood blocks under the ends of the lead screws in case someone or something might press down on them.
Looks like there a gap on each end of the saddle from the Tercite gap. Thinking may be time for a video on fabricating way wipers to a machine that's without them. Looks like a swarf trap as is.
I admire everything you do, You are an extreme professional who pays attention to detail Please find a helper when you need one so you wont get injured trying to do a two man task, I love your videos' and need you around to make more OK so be safe Thanks Joe.
salut
jais remarquer si il a pas des essuie traque pour les ripes de métal
tu a boucau avancer dans le travail sur la machine
continu de faire des bon vidéo pour tout tes Spectateur
partout dans le monde moi DU CANADA MERCI
Can't wait to see this working. Is it going to be used on the stoker engine?
Keith, great work. I've been wondering about the Turcuite though. On a lathe I get it, as the saddle and head are in a fixed vertical relationship, but surely on a Horizontal Boring Mill, the head is moving in the vertical plane?
Are there way wipers for the saddle? It looks like there probably should be.
👌👌👍👍
An amateur question. would or wouldn't it be a good idea to put some anti seize compound on things like tapered pins? I'm thinking in 30 -50 years someone will bless you making the pins easier to remove. Or is that a bad idea?
Keith, I'm curious, what makes cutting a worm gear more challenging/different than cutting a helical gear? Is there a curve or something in the teeth that isn't apparent on the video?
Yes. If you look closely, you can see that the center of the worm gear is a smaller diameter than the sides. This is so it will wrap around the worm itself, which of course is a cylinder, so the teeth on the matching gear need to be cut cylindrically.
I can’t for the life of me figure out why you didn’t take some of the round pieces and chuck them up in the lathe so you could take some scotch brite and polish them to get rid of the surface rust and allow them to slide better for metal to metal contact as long as they were off the machine. They don’t have to look new but it sure would have helped with the friction. Also after scraping the zig zag pattern, you could have put a dab of way oil on them so any oiling of the parts would quickly follow the pre-oiled pattern.
Are you going to install way covers.
How do you know how tight to make the gib?
Whom sells the oiler cups?
Did Keith learn to polish hammer faces from Mark Novak or did Mark learn from Keith?
Did this machine have wipers?
Those drive rods look like they could of used a little rust cleaning.
😛😛😛😛❤❤❤🦾🦾🦴👍👍👍👍👍👍
I have been told by machine re builders that turcite is not a good material to use under a tail stock. Brass, bronze, steel, and or cast iron would be my considerations!
Curious why some rebuilders would have that opinion. I restored my Harding HLVH that included a bed plate regrind. We installed Rulon on the saddle AND the tailstock. The results were remarkable and the accuracy of the machine is better than when it left Elmira back in 1969. The factory taper spec is .0001 in 6 inches. This lathe ended up at less than .0001 in 10 inches. Most, if not all Hardinge rebuilders shim the bed plate, which considerably less time consuming, especially because machining the underside of the tailstock is a workholding challenge.We beat it by designing and building a custom fixture that has pitch and yaw adjustment capability. I am surprised Keith scraped the oil grooves down to the cast iron which exposes the epoxy to the way oil.
Nice seeing it slolwy coming closer to being usable again
Although I wonder, now that the saddle is a little bit raised up from the turkite, how do you make sure the shafts line up perfectly with the couplings at the headstock? I didn't see you adjust anything with shims etc. so did the turkite just randomly put everything to the perfect height to make up for wear and scraping?
It was ground with intent of Turcite being applied. Any grinding shop familiar with the process can figure out the geometry and correctly grind ways to allow for necessary clearance.
It’s something you need to plan ahead for, and I’m sure Keith went over dimensions, bed wear, etc with the grind shop so it went together correctly.
The headstock can rise up and down , so that lil' turkite makes no problem. It is a horizontal boring mill , not a lathe or bridgeport mill.
@@bernardwill7196 I think you're missing the point, the studs where the shafts go into don't move with the headstock so you have to get the dimensions right before assembly. But seeing Kenny's comment, I think I forgot about what Keith said about getting the bed ground to a dimension fitting for the turcite. That does answer my question, even though I should have known that already lol...
Does not matter. The head and out board support / tail stock move up and down in sync.
@@CatNolara Ok you are right right and Keith is not an idiot, he know what he did. On the other hand that are old machines and so shims and such things are necessary to bring them proper alive.
I really want to reach into my screen and lend a hand.
28:50 Whats that noise? Sounds like a bell-
Sounds to me like the straight cut gear noise from running the feed.
Is there anybody else here who thinks Keith’s wife is like Captain Mainwaring’s wife?
I don’t understand why you scraped the underside faces very precisely but then put a layer of turquite over it.
Need to maintain standard height so feed rods can run concentric.
@@BrianEltherington but what determined the thickness of the turcite(sorry, I don’t know how to spell it!!
That gear is very badly worn Keith....you could shave with it . (but good enough)?
WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO DO SOME WORK?
Are you losing weight?
*_I don't know that I like the tercite. I think Id rather chrome the ways and build up that way._*
Nice to see a sleek you. You sound better, too less huffing and puffing.
Thanks for sharing