Audi A4 A6 3.0L Timing Belt Replacement DIY - BGN AVK B6 C5 Platform
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- Applicable to all 2002-2005 A4 3.0 and 1999-2005 A6 3.0.
Timing kit acquired from Rockauto : CONTITECH kit number CK330LK1
Torque specifications
Water pump 10nm / 7foot pounds
Hydraulic dampener 10nm
Dampener roller bracket to block 28nm / 21foot pounds (BLAUPARTS)***
Dampener roller bracket to block 30nm / 22foot pounds + 90 DERGEES (BENTLY)***
***NOTE: This bolt has a small o-ring or bushing on the bolt. If not installed, it will leak oil. The torque specification is conflicting between sources, it is believed that the OEM bolt it TTY while aftermarket bolts are not.
Dampener roller to bracket 21nm / 16foot pounds
Eccentric pulley 45nm / 33foot pounds
Idler roller 25nm / 18foot pounds
2 Cam reset 10nm
4 Cam bolts 100nm / 73foot pounds
1 Crank pin locking plug 25nm / 19foot pounds
3 Power steering pulley bolts 23nm / 17foot pounds
Valve cover bolts 10nm
6 Crank pulley bolts 25nm / 19foot pounds
Some of the tools required:
Allen sockets:
M4 - After run coolant pump bolts x2, timing cover bolts
M5 - Crank pulley bolts x6, crank locking pin plug
M6 - Various pulleys
M8 - Various pulleys
Allen Key:
M4 - bolt holding coolant line to block in front of timing belt covers
Triple Square:
M10 for the power steering pump bracket
Torx Sockets/Bits:
T30 for valve covers, headlights and rad carrier
T27 for bumper shock absorbers
T25 for fender liner
Mini ratchet for driver rear lower bolt
Sockets, if you can use 6 point, use 6 point:
12 point 24mm socket - to rotate crank
6 point 18mm socket for cam pulleys
6/12 point 10mm wrench to operate the cam lock bars
6/12 point 8mm socket to insert the crank pin
6/12 point 10mm socket for water pump, hydraulic tensioner
Misc:
Cam locking bars
Exhaust cam reset socket
Torque wrenches - 3/8 and 1/2
Various extensions
Various flat heads
Zip tie to remove coil pack
Pick tool to remove crud and electrical connectors if they are stubborn
WD-40 to lube things, remove/installing lower coolant rad hose, pulley shafts
Magnet pick up tool - because you will drop shit
Timestamp:
00:00 Intro
00:37 Checking Timing Belt Condition
00:56 Timing Tool Review
02:23 Other Misc Tools Needed
03:09 Parts - Minimum
03:56 Parts - "While you're in there..."
04:55 Peripheral Removal
07:46 Bolt Scum
09:10 Valve Cover Removal
09:55 3.0 Cam Review
10:34 Valve Cover Gasket re/re
11:44 Accessory Belt and Pulley Removal
13:23 Top Dead Centering and Locking the Motor
14:18 Crank Lock Pin Installation
15:50 Crank Pin Location
16:23 Crank Pulley and Timing Cover Removal
17:23 Breaking Cam Bolts Loose
18:09 Timing Belt Removal
18:45 Water Pump Removal
20:00 Water Pump Installation
20:13 Timing Pulley Reinstallation
20:30 Torque Spec Review and Sequence
21:03 Eccentric Pulley Install Review
22:18 Tensioner and Cam Reset Sequence
24:55 Interference Test Rotating the Motor
25:15 Reassembly
Using the jack to hold the wrench while taking that bolt off made me appreciate this video
Thanks!
Thank you for posting a comprehensive video of the 3.0 timing belt. Ive been holding on to all my parts because the other videos didnt provide clear info. Nice work. Please post more.
Happy to help! Good luck with your project. Thats why I made this video, could not believe no one has made a comprehensive one yet. Let us know if you have any questions along the way.
I can't thank you enough for the video! Amazing job here! Just did my first audi timing belt on this 3.0l and used your video to get me through it! 🤘🙏 keep up the great work!
Happy to help! nice work as well, not the simplest of tasks that is for sure.
Great job! You make it look so easy.
Thank you! 😊
Wow super helpful and detailed thanks so much. I'm doing this next week.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice thorough video. Definitely useful. That beat is gutter too. I freestyled half the video so I had to rewatch lol.
ha its just a youtube beat too!
Thank so much this help alot very detailed work. I was planing on changing the crank pulley myself noticed it was shaking side to side but couldn't find a good DIY until I came across yours I just purchased a 2002 audi a6 96k with paper work at 95k for timming belt. glad to see hows its done. Amazing work post more !
Thanks, we're always slowly releasing various material. Happy to hear it helped.
Thanks for the video bud, I'm looking at a A4 3.0 Quattro 6-speed myself and was debating on whether or not to pull the gun on it. It's at 125,000 miles and probably needs this job done, now I have a reference. Thank you for posting this in depth video.
Yea definitely have a peek at the timing belt when looking at it. Good luck with the purchase.
@@PBGarage thanks bud, looking forward to joining the A4 club and diving more into your videos
Excellent video thanks! I'm considering a C5 allroad with 159K miles with no timing belt history. While the car and engine bay are stupid clean, I'm planning to do this job pretty soon after purchase.
Nice, keep us posted on how it goes!
12:09 Tip: no need for special tool or having with the belt on, just use 2 wrenches on different screws applying force in opposite directions.
Yes, that works too! Or you can span across a bolt and the center shaft with a prybar or screw drivers. Many different options.
Good beer choice 👍
I think so too!
I followed on your procedure on the motor mount part and i didnt take it out but i did unbolt the coolant pump with a long extension and had plenty of room and to take out the crank pin bolt i ran a tripple long extension thrue the front wheel in between and got it pain in the ass thro im hopefully it comes out good just got the locking cam tool
Nice work. I took the motor mount out only because I wad replacing it anyways. Otherwise it can certainly stay. Happy the video helped!
Excellent ... I removed the entire front end as I wanted to get in and delete my broken Air conditioning compressor.
Glad the video helped!
@@PBGarage Yes doing the job right now .. but I have a really rusty harmonic balancer and I cant make out my TDC from it at all .. Any advice on that? I am replacing it and waiting on it to arrive.
You might want to use the crankshaft locking tool to lock it at TDC to be sure.
@@PBGarage I have ordered the crank and cam lock kit as no one around here has one, some say you can do it without the kit but I am playing it safe and will wait for the kit to arrive.
I just completed my timing belt but have zero compression. I used the cam and crank lock kit but what I didn't quite get was the zeroing out of the the exhaust cams. When I used that tool there was nothing to tighten or zero out ... any idea's? I am sure I did it by the book and no valves where bent in the process as everything was locked down.
Sorry to hear that, not really sure what could have gone wrong other than mistimed cams and bent valves...
Thank you for the video. I am wondering why the cam sprokets need to be losened? Though that may be my issue. I did my belt transfering the old marks to the new belt. My car runs fine at higher roms, but misses at idle.
Loosening the cam sprockets ensures correct phasing between the left and right bank as you set the tension on the timing belt. If your cam timing is causing your miss at idle it will show a cam timing code in VCDS. If no code then I would look for a vacuum leak somewhere throwing the MAF reading off.
This, 'cam timing code's info was the gem I was looking for. I bought a wagon, ASN engine, with these codes. P0360 & P0340 & misfire 4,5,6. Having just tried to place the cam tool on, I find the cam timings out. Ex on bank 1 & inlet on bank 2. There's white marks on the pulleys so I'm sure the last mechanic never used the proper tools.
It runs, but badly. I will post my results.
Thanks for the best ASN/BBJ + cam timing video on RUclips.
@@martinee4901 Thank you for the kind words, keep us posted on the results!
Hi
Dampener roller bracket to block 30nm / 22foot pounds + 90 DERGEES (BENTLY)***
***NOTE: This bolt has a small o-ring or bushing on the bolt. If not installed, it will leak oil. The torque specification is conflicting between sources, it is believed that the OEM bolt it TTY while aftermarket bolts are not.
Which one is the bolt with o-ring?
what does TTY mean?
Thank you
Google both audi 3.0 dampener roller bracket and Torque to Yield Bolts(stretch bolts)
Awesome video, it really helped so far. I have a question though. How the hell did you get the front coolant pipe off? Is it held on by bolts? I can't seem to find them. Maybe if I take the thermostat off first?
Nevermind. Turns out there's a torx bolt right under that pipe on the top and again down toward the soft pipe connection. Hidden bastards.
@@noyou1252 yep it was an allen bolt similar to timing cover bolts for mine. I had to use a allen key ball/swivel to get in on an angle because you cannot get perfectly perpendicular on it.
What happens if you don't use the lock pin and only use the cams on the motor to do this job?, I can't seem to get the pin on it it's way far behind a loose bolt any ideas
As long as you keep the crank pulley located and it doesn’t move, you will be fine. Guys do it without the lock pin all the time.
Hi, I am going to tackle this job on my own vehicle, but noticed oil is being slung around in the timing covers. Is there a special procedure to remove the cam sprockets? I believe it may be the seals behind the sprockets, but don't want to dig myself into a hole I cannot get out of.
I cannot recall what the procedure is for the cams, but the seal is know to leak, probably your source but should be visible where it's coming from, ir behind the sprocket. I think you just remove the bolt completely and reassemble.
Where did you purchase the coolant hose clips?
ECS Tuning for those in the video. The dealer will have them as well.
Hey! Quick question im working on my 02 a4 and i was wondering would locking the cams still be necessary if only the crank is locked? Or does that work vice versa only? Thanks in advance!
locking the cams is much more critical than the crank.
I spinned my crankshaft counter clockwise will I be fine I did it about half rotation back and fourth 3 times cuz the bolts where moving the balancer
As long as the timing was all set, then it will be fine to counter rotate the crank
Yes I made my marks way before I started messing around the crankshaft thank you I got scared I messed it up
@@PBGarage I did not use locking tool and my marks moved when I removed the belt how can I fix this?
Is this the same procedure for the bbj engine engine 30L A4 Qauttro?
Yes the BBJ is the same as the asn or avk motor
So with the crank locking pin seated all the way in, should it still have some play in it? When I rotate the crank back and forth I can hear it hitting the pin… Great video!
there might be some ever so slight play, but mine was tight. It is purely to hold it in place, and keep it from moving. As long as the mark on you pulley remains timed, then you will be fine, as guys do this job without the pin.
Can you show me where on the cams you put those cam locks exactly?
Google audi v6 3.0 cam lock and find the audizine thread that shows how it's I stalled
nice vid. I just finished mine but the belt is riding to the rear cutting into the plastic on the passengers side any idea what I did wrong?
Not sure, do you mean the timing cover plastic? I dont think it is possible install a pulley backwards, but that is all I can really think of.
@@PBGarage yes the back of the timing belt cover. Well I guess back in I go lol :(
Quick question when resetting the cam with the special tool how do you know you are resetting the timing right is there any marks to show how far to torque ?
There are no visual markers on those cams. My understanding is that no more than 10 foot pounds of torque is all that is needed to rotate them. All you are doing is rotating it until it binds/resets. You do not necessarily need a torque wrench to rotate this, but I think it is used as a safety measure. The teeth on the tool are very narrow/shallow and small and if you overload it with torque it’ll probably strip the cam or break something internally to the adjuster.
Awesome thank you I changed my timing belt and is looking good I watched your video around a hundred times thank you it was very helpful
Great video, this hepls me a lot
Just please give me more instructions or explain
What are you doing when reset the camshaft? Are you rotate it back to the baseline?
Why needed to do it?
Sorry but this engine timing very new for me
Thanks a lot and the quick answer
Cheers from Hungary ✌️✌️✌️
Where did you get the kit from? Trying to do the timing belt as well at home, just not sure if all the kits are the same.
rockauto: kit name and number: CONTITECH CK330LK1
only thing I would really recommend to add are crank pulley bolts. I hate re-using crusty old bolts, but I had to do it in the vid. Not that it really matters since its not coming off for the next 10 years, but nice to know in 10 years the bolts will come out without stripping, if the car last that long.
@@PBGarage thanks. Oh btw would you say the power steering is easy to replace? I mean since I'll be taking all this off was thinking of maybe replacing that as well.
Don't know if anyone has any answers to my issue but when I installed the cam lockers the crank was past its mark on the the cover by 12mm give or take and the crank pin wouldn't go in so I just removed the old belt and rotated the crank back counter clockwise so the crank pin fitted into its slot then installed the belt with the cams locked and the crank locked hopefully all is well going to start it up tomorrow also engine spins over freely no binding up, only issue is the valves do make a cluck noise on the way back up is this because I've lost oil pressure inside the hydraulic lifters ?
I would have done the same as in rotating the crank back and putting the pin in. Not sure what the clunk is to be honest. How did the start up go?
@@PBGarage start up went perfectly it runs way better then before I really don't know how nothing got bent like the valves if the crank was that far off its mark when everyone says these engines are a interference fit all I know is it runs better sounds quieter and happy and pulls abit better then before.
@@willaldworth8127 That is good to hear! I do love the 3.0 engine, despite all the hate it gets! I hope our video helped!
Amazing video, thanks so much for your time. I have to ask... Why must the Germans make things so incredibly complicated? Just the accessory tensioner alone, Mein Gott!
Thank you for the feedback. That tensioner is certainly a weird looking one for sure. All the other motors I've worked on, 3.2, 2.0, 1.8, 2.7, 4.2 all have normal tensioners... not sure why the 3.0 ended up with that style!!! the rest of it is pretty standard issue!
Watching this while looking to purchase a car with one of those 3.0 V6 engines... thanks for the insight on what's to come!
Btw with this background music you could have just rapped your narration all the way. :D
Make sure you check out all our vids with our 3.0 avant, amazing sounding engine with an exhaust.
@@PBGarage Thanks for the tip will do!
Btw, is there any experience about how much difference there is between an A6 C5 and A4 B6 having the same 3.0 V6?
I'm really on the fence but I fear that the extra weight of the A6 is noticeable even with a 220HP engine.
@@Blazs120gl Out fleet hasnt had the pleasure of that exact chasis/drive train set up, but it definitely wouldnt feel as fast. If is what you are looking for then the b6 3.0 is great out the box.
@@Blazs120gl Check out our other 3.0 vs 1.8 vs 1.8 video. the 3.0 crushes 1.8 stage 1+ all day long.
@@PBGarage Having a 1.8 TSI Octavia I can tell you I'm done with inline 4 for life. I had an A4 B5 V6 ABC quattro but it has just disintegrated so I'm looking for its successor.
What I'm looking for is driving pleasure and a wide power band with no lag. That's why I avoid the 2.7 V6 biturbo as well.
Apart from the A6 being heavier I always had the background info that A6's are designed by a different team than the A4 and somehow, A4's using the same components, end up being the better package. Thanks again for all the insights, looking forward for your next video! Have an awesome Saturday! :)
Great information! Wish you had some different BGM options tho.
Working on some more BGM!
@@PBGarage Danke!
Great video, why did you loosen the cam sprockets but not remove them?
You only loosen them since they are on a tapered shafted, which allows them to spin freely. If the old timing stays in time, there they wont move much. I should have showed that, but but didnt.
PB Garage Thanks so much for the reply. I just bought my first Audi yesterday, 2002 A4 Quattro 3.0. Crank, no start. While it cranks it has an irregular sound, was thinking possible bent valves/jumped timing, but then you talked about the exhaust cam on the passenger side, great info. I’m going to check fuel, crank sensor, and cam sensors. Do you recommend checking anything else for a crank no start condition?
I would start by finding out if you have spark. If no spark then likely an issue with crank sensor. If you have spark try spraying starting fluid in the intake, if it fires up and runs on starting fluid then you know you have a fuel issue. If it doesn’t fire on starting fluid then it could be an issue with compression indicating bent valves or something of that nature.
Great job. What did it all cost you?
If I recall correctly somewhere around 700-800 canadian.
@@PBGarage thank you. I will be doing 1 soon. This video is a God-sent!!!
Can anyone tell me why all data is saying to remove the cam gears when it seem to be completely unnecessary? The water pump and right side tensioner look unobstructed by the gears.
In reviewing the Audi literature I have it specifically says "Loose securing bolts - 1-4 camshaft sprockets. Note Leave bolts screwed in loosely"
Where are you reaching that they need to be removed? that might be for another motor? I should have made a point of it in the video that they do not need to come off, it is purely to reset the exhaust cam gear if needed, mine didnt, but some do.
@@PBGarage You have the best video on RUclips for this particular job. I accidentally said remove the CAMS. My mistake. I was curious about why you would loosen them though. I talked to another guy about why you would need to do that and he said it help to fit the cam locker. Then it dawned on me this is most like due to belt stretching.
@@whodareswins18 Without a long winded speal yes in a way. The cam locker is installed before loosening the bolts though.
@@blakegoss8720 If over time the belt stretches, you lose prefect timing slightly. Which would prohibit you from installing the cam lockers properly. What necessary info would you add making it long winded?
Great video ! Thanks
But what about uploading b8 s4 rear seats in a4 b7 avant?
Many guys waiting on it including me.
Cheers!
I know, if we just did that video, we would be super yachting in a week!
@@PBGarage can't wait for it !
How can i contact you privatly?
You can find PB Garage on Facebook and message us privately there.
Why don't you remove the radiators on the right side of the car?
You can't swing the A/C Condenser out to one side on B6s the way you can on B5s. Sometimes depending on the job you can unhook it at both ends and tuck it under the bellypan, but you don't need that much access to do timing belt, so just sliding the whole carrier forward gives you plenty of room without having to disconnect any A/C lines.
so that means the a6 c5 3.0 petrol 220hp from 2001 i bought uses a timing belt cause i couldnt figure it out the seller said it a chain. (probaly didnt know better) but yeah might need to look into that... cause i got no service history after 2013....
Yes you would have a belt driven motor. Lots of people dont know what their engine actually has/use the term interchangeable to simply describe the timing components. Hard for non car people to keep track since VW/Audi bounced around a bit with belts or chains, then mixed the two on some motors/belts for the main and chains for the cams.
@@PBGarage yeah i see i have a belt, jsut toke of both covers on the front a nice thick belt but i got no history on when it was done... belt looks fine not dry, or cracked. but yeah so that be something im gonna do soon. gearbox feels fine but same he told me it was done... it shifts smooth every gear.
and okay yeah cause my friend has vw golf 4 v6 2.8, 4 motion and his is chain.
i dont hate belt but dont like that u need to change it that sucks and cost alot... and seems like a horrible job om this audi
Im buying an audi a6 3.0 v6 2003 or a mercedes 320 v6 2004! After watching this i go for the mercedes with timing chain
Ha it's not that bad!!! But I get it, there is simpler out there.
wow man, nice work. How much would this cost? I am currently looking to buy a 2003 B6 convertible ,3.0 quattro and manual.I just want to know how much should I save for such a job. Thank you
I would say parts alone close to 800Cad. And labour would be another 1200-1500cad eqsy
@@PBGarage Thank you for sharing all this information with us! I wish you and your family only the best!
@gratzy1989 thank you!
NEVER use WD40 around rubber; it will break-down the elastomers in the rubber and cause it to fail prematurely. Instead, use ATF, it is an excellent break-er-loose, really gets into tight corners well.
ATF makes rubber swell like crazy.
@@PBGarage ATF isn't in a spray, you can control where it goes.
Tayingi
Mauruuru koe!