I agree about the impedance. Dayton needs to make a 4+4 version of this. There are people who don't want to run 1 ohm loads and destroy the damping factor of the amplifier.
@@kylevanwinkle2081 Damping factor does matter. If you don't believe it does, hook up a high damping factor amplifier and listen. Then wire the same amp down as low in ohms as it can handle and listen to the difference. Where do people come up with this stuff?
@subbassrules umm the simple fact that you can go to the rawcat youtube channel and which him test the damping factor of amps with drastically different stats yet the audible result is pretty much the same. Like no audible difference. I've done your test it makes no difference on a measurement mic than output since the wattage is lower. Damping factor has been tested to nauseum. Anything over 200 isn't an audible difference for even those with golden ears.
@@kylevanwinkle2081 the part your missing is every time you cut the impedance in half, the damping factor does the same. So if the damping is 200 at 4 ohms, it's 100 @2, then 50 at 1 and 25 at 1/2 ohm. Here's a simpler test. Hook your sub up with 100 feet of 18 gauge wire. Then switch to 8-12 gauge.
I was looking at the 18 for an IB setup in my car. I waited until the TS specs were realeased for the UMII and decided to pull the trigger on the original UM18 due to the higher Q and lower Fs. I still have it sitting in the box, but the build will commence soon. I definitely agree about the dual 2 option, but for my purposes, 4 ohms will be fine.
Thanks to Dayton Audio, I now have a new dream subwoofer with the Ultimax II. It used to be the Reference Series High Excursion, but those were discontinued. Thank goodness they came up with this model. I really wanted a subwoofer with the same power handling and features. Thanks for the review, Justin!! 👌
Is the High Excursion for SPL? I picked up a pair of the 8" High Fidelity. Not here yet.. wasn't sure if the HF is a newer HE.. or what.. cause they have the HO (as @DIYAudioGuy links to) as well. I want quality over SPL for home theater use (and frankly car too). I am curious how much louder but less clean the HO is to the HF
I remember he took it out at some point today and placed it in the sink. Check if he did that again. He also was placing things in that tissue box again.
Excellent vid! I would love a pair of theses, since i always get em in pairs...i was very impressed by the V1 ultimax, even though i was looking for a good car audio sub and it didnt reall shine as an spl sub, it made me realize not all subs are equal and that SQ is some thing else entirely. As a powerful high SQ it is amazing in home. If your cars is nice and quiet, this sub will also be a fantastic choice. Cant wait to try out the V2. I think a SQL build with a ton of these would be great either in home cinema or car.
Sub looks great. I have aways been a huge fan of dayton audio, everything I have ever seen from them was amazing. Unfortunatly where I am I have dificulty buying their products
I bought the UMII 10" based on this video. They were super cheap and I wanted to see if I could upgrade the RSL Speedwoofer 10E I've had for a few months. The Speedwoofer is a great sub but lacks the lower bass heft I thought it would have. The UMII makes the stock RSL driver look soggy in comparison. Can't use the stock RSL grill either from that fat surround. I had to wire the coils on the new Ultimax in series to get 4 ohms but it works amazingly well. There's a big fat low end that was missing before. I came home to my GF watching the new Inside Out movie and that sub sounded incredible. Not the biggest room, but it was definitely reconfiguring the ambient pressure of the room. I love it. Might do a second one the same way.
I was always hesitant to get the Dayton um because of all the qc issues which stopped me. When I saw this revision I figured I’d take a shot. Unfortunately right out of the box the paper cone neck joint was not glued onto the carbon fiber cone properly and is coming apart and all 4 terminals are sideways. Guess much has not changed :( thanks for the video I can’t wait to see you make a box and run some tests for us :)
You are so close to 100 k subscribers! Good job! Have you done or thought about doing a review on parts express 21 inch Kraken? I heard it's supposed to be as loud as 2 18 s. I know all speakers aren't created equally as far as performance, but that claim grabbed my attention.
I have twelve of the 18" original Ultimax in Infinite Baffle in my HT operating from about 10 to 35 Hz. For this I need very little power, only about 60 watts/driver. I'm pretty happy with the performance but it would be interesting to try the new version. I see one negative at least for my application, the originals had two additional unused terminal mounts that I use to couple the drivers together with threaded rods. It appears the new version doesn't have this so I would need a new way to couple them to get the mechanical energy cancellation I have with the originals. I've also heard that the new version is not a drop in replacement due to a different basket flange diameter, that would make replacing originals with the new more difficult. Personally I'm finding the performance of the originals to be excellent for my application so if the new version is even better, it should definitely be a good choice for a DIY HT subwoofer.
I have the old 18", works great but power handling sucks. Needs to have a huge enclosure to have enough excursion to cool the voice coil on 1000W clamped power. It has only 2-layer voice coil and all modern subwoofers have 4-layer coils like the new version does. So maybe the upgraded version works better 🔊
V1 vs V2: In a 4.5 cu ft ported box, the V1 has an F3 of ~17hz and can reach ~110dB SPL. The V2 needs to be tuned at 25hz to get an F3 of 22hz. But it can reach ~115dB. So V2 is a lot louder, but you will struggle to get flat bass extension down to 20hz for a HT application.
The sensitivity plots indeed do not show conversion efficiency, I.E. True maximum performance. The new Ultimax II looks really tempting now. Thanks for the preview.
@@DIYAudioGuy Still looking around into hifi and car audio, but PA recently got quite some price/performance boosts, and does very well with price/motor force/displacement volume ratios. This Dayton seem to do (scale price wise) fine as long as the enclosure can be somewhat large. I wish for next iteration of Dayton HO then. 🙂
I can't wait to get a couple of the new 18s. I just hope Dayton comes out with a class D that can power them properly. I'd love a 1500w RMS amp with DSP that isn't a pro audio amp.
I still like the Dayton reference high excursion it's has a triple magnet more excursion but Dayton stopped making them. Lucky i bought a 12" before they were gone.
I got the Daytona 6.5" in my truck for mids. Also have 6" showllow and tweeters in another vehicle. Love the way they sound. I gonna have to ma5a video
The old ultimax is actually fiberglass, hence the weight difference. I'm kind of interested because I have a carbon fiber floor standing speaker project. However, I ran the numbers and found the V2 is actually worse for an HT. It won't quite extend down to 20hz! (But it is a lot louder.)
I have 4 of the 10” in my truck (you can see it on my RUclips channel. They pound!! My box is tuned around 24hz with a 3 cubic foot box. It drops low!!! When people hear me coming they are surprised to know that it’s only 10” woofers not 12” or 15”. I love these woofers well the original ones. I’m curious on how the new ones sound
Unless my eyes are deceiving me, judging by your pictures, the mounting flange is narrower on the new Ultimax. Did that present a mounting issue when you built your new box?
@DIYAudioGuy would you use one of these (or their HF model) 8" size in a bandpass 4th order design? I am really curious if I can get pretty good bass out of a tiny sub/box. The 8" HF which I ordered says it fits in a .95 cuft. I have some SQL 12s that claim they can fit in as small as .75 or so.. which is insane to me a 12" with as big as it is could go in a small sealed box than the 8". But I have always loved the cleaner (and I thought deeper but maybe not) sound of the 4th order bandpass. I remember hearing the Bose acoustimas with the tiny cube speakers and hidden sub and was amazed at how the low freq sounded like it was coming from the small cubes. Then a friend built a 4th order 2cuft box (1.25 front side with dual 2" ports and .75 back side sealed, speaker inside) and it was insane how much bass it put out.. single 10" Orion or Hifonics sub.. cant remember it was like 30 years ago.. but it was hitting harder and louder than my dual 12s with 400watts at the time. So I have an itch to build a 4th order box of some sort, ideally small.. that could house something like one of these $100 8" subs and put out some good bass. Ideal for a small home theater or bedroom setup. What do you think? Worthy of a build video for you? Consider it a challenge. :D
Hey, you should seriously do a video on odd ball sized and shaped subwoofer enclosures. Like, does it affect sound if a box is to spec but has to be shaped like an S to fit.
Now that I've got the CNC, I guess I could build a box like that. The problem is the material cost. That's something you can help with. patreon.com/diyaudioguy
I'm just giving you ideas for videos that other creators haven't done yet. Like I'm doing an install in a camaro that to make spec for this guys subwoofers, I need to do odd ball rectangular pockets on the 2 sides to gain the correct air space. Would be interesting to know if that will change the sound much. I have more ideas as well for ya. Set yourself apart from the other creators to gain more views. I wouldn't even charge ya much and can give you my PayPal to deposit tips for my ideas and helping you gain viewers.
5:17 I don't see a point in simulating a fullrange response for a subwoofer, which will be cut off at 60-80Hz. Adding LPF into the sim does change the perspective a bit and might even result in different box tuning.
i have the ultimax 10 and this thing is crazy 4th order Bassreflex tune for around 20 hz i forgot it, but at home its stupid you put it in your car with the carbin gain it is brutal, i had outperform some 12inch woofers. i will build a new smaller boxed closed, its better for my SQL build
I had a Dayton ultimax 12, and measured the maximum excursion, placing the driver below a shelf and measuring the distance between the cone and the shelf, the furthest that I could physically push the cone before ripping the spider, was 12mm, I was a bit disappointed, because the spec says 19mm. (Perhaps the xmax is rated peak to peak, so that would be 9.5mm, and xmech 12mm, each way). Seems to me that the new version is the same, 12mm or less, given the performance that you have shown.
I don't believe you. Spiders are made out of very durable material, I have cut a few out over the past few years and they don't just break like that. Plus, that is not how xmax is measured.
They're decent drivers, but are by no means a long throw. 12mm is ok. I replaced my um12 with a scanspeak 30w, much better, and a longer throw, I measured it to be 18mm each way
On some of the forums allot of people say the carbon cone daytons don't use any kind of resin or seal over the carbon so it let's air through, have you experienced that at all?
Carbon fiber with no resin would be way too flexible. I highly doubt Dayton Audio was worried about cost enough to save 5 cents on resin. Whoever told you this probably thinks all carbon fiber needs excess resin so it is smooth.
ive heard this also.. not really that there is no resin, but between the weeves of the carbon leaks... it was on the epique drivers.. maybe just a quality defect that went through for a batch? i have sundown components for my car that i havnt hooked up yet.. i feel like this issue is going to effect these drivers as well.. i can blow through the carbon cones it seems... kinda weirded me out after spending 500 bones... they look good tho.. one day ill install them.. 🤷
I like Dayton Audio "H.O." and "H.F." series better, because they actually have a dust cap! Looks much better IMO. And these two little Subs have nothing on the Kraken 21!🍺
My kids are finally at that age that I don’t need to keep the back of my Toyota Venza available for strollers….so I’m in the market for some subs. I’m starting from scratch, and in all honesty, I’m very naive to this process. I’ve found a 2400w Skar 12 prefab on Amazon……should I just pull the trigger on these? Or is there a better avenue for me? Appreciate any responses
I have never heard an Ultimax, but I want to. I like a sealed sub with a broad operating range (fast and low). Looks like I can get one from Solen for about 300 bucks, should I go for it?, I used to have a sealed Eclipse 8700 series sub setup that i have never been able to replicate.
Hate how plate amps get exponentially more expensive the more powerful they get. Like a plate amp that could run this woofer could easily be twice the price of the woofer. I'd happily pay 300 bones for this woofer but 600 for an amp is just too much for me:(
reference series have much lower Qts, so are more suitable for a more effective, bigger bass reflex enclosures. Ultimax is ideal for small sealed, or veeery low tuned bassreflex.
I would say the two drivers are built for a different purpose. Pretty sure the evl12 can handle more power, it'll play it louder. Both the ultimax is more of a sound quality driver.
@@teenperfect5092 I personally would go with the ultimax because it's going to sound better. But there are plenty of other good reasons to buy the Skar.
I have a goofy plan, maybe someone could give me advice. I can't have a sub box in my Sequoia because I need the room so I'm planning modifying the existing sub box (around .5 ft cu) with fiber glass. My plan is to use one Memphis Mojo 8 at RMS tuned with a Audison DSP. I'm not a base head and a prefer a balanced full sound, with excellent sound quality, that I can play loudly. Is that Mojo driver the right choice or would something like this 400 w RMS 8in sub be sufficient?
That sounds like a lot of work for very little return. Instead, I would recommend a 10-in subwoofer down firing in a thin box. That would definitely hit your goal of rounding out the lower end and if you needed the cargo space you can stack stuff on top of the box.
@@DIYAudioGuy that's sad to hear. Unfortunately that's not an option. I use all my trunk space for vast amounts of production equipment that slide in through my trunk. An immovable box would be extraordinary counter productive. Have you tried the Mojo 8 before. Is the sound quality atleast decent? I can't tell is it's loud and sloppy or loud and decent.
@@SimplestUsername I have no direct experience with Memphis Audio. If fiberglass in stock location is your only choice try to get as much airspace as you can, maybe try one on both sides of the rear hatch.
.Pulled the trigger on the 10". Need a quote for a win isd work for a passive radiator box. This is the only way to contact you for now. I do not follow mainstream social media outlets. . So, i guess mainstream or bust huh? So many views and likes wasted on this channel
I wouldn't have another UM if it were FREE ..... the build quality SUCKS ASS and i have 2 15s that are paper weights as do many others - the HYPE is all bullshit ..... you're welcome
Get the Subwoofer* here: parts-express.sjv.io/5gRRBb
Use the code DIY5 for a discount.
Says "this coupon code has expired or is invalid"
@@joejensen5962 well, that explains why nobody is using it.
I agree about the impedance. Dayton needs to make a 4+4 version of this. There are people who don't want to run 1 ohm loads and destroy the damping factor of the amplifier.
Same thing for this big monster: parts-express.sjv.io/9WYvQy
Then wire it to 4ohm. Not that damping factor actually matters
@@kylevanwinkle2081 Damping factor does matter. If you don't believe it does, hook up a high damping factor amplifier and listen. Then wire the same amp down as low in ohms as it can handle and listen to the difference. Where do people come up with this stuff?
@subbassrules umm the simple fact that you can go to the rawcat youtube channel and which him test the damping factor of amps with drastically different stats yet the audible result is pretty much the same. Like no audible difference.
I've done your test it makes no difference on a measurement mic than output since the wattage is lower.
Damping factor has been tested to nauseum. Anything over 200 isn't an audible difference for even those with golden ears.
@@kylevanwinkle2081 the part your missing is every time you cut the impedance in half, the damping factor does the same. So if the damping is 200 at 4 ohms, it's 100 @2, then 50 at 1 and 25 at 1/2 ohm. Here's a simpler test. Hook your sub up with 100 feet of 18 gauge wire. Then switch to 8-12 gauge.
I like the old magnet look more than the new
I was looking at the 18 for an IB setup in my car. I waited until the TS specs were realeased for the UMII and decided to pull the trigger on the original UM18 due to the higher Q and lower Fs. I still have it sitting in the box, but the build will commence soon. I definitely agree about the dual 2 option, but for my purposes, 4 ohms will be fine.
Thanks to Dayton Audio, I now have a new dream subwoofer with the Ultimax II. It used to be the Reference Series High Excursion, but those were discontinued. Thank goodness they came up with this model. I really wanted a subwoofer with the same power handling and features. Thanks for the review, Justin!! 👌
I never had a chance to try the HE, but the HO is awesome: ruclips.net/video/uT_oAJM_n1M/видео.htmlsi=m4Nc6c490UvxxfLv
Is the High Excursion for SPL? I picked up a pair of the 8" High Fidelity. Not here yet.. wasn't sure if the HF is a newer HE.. or what.. cause they have the HO (as @DIYAudioGuy links to) as well. I want quality over SPL for home theater use (and frankly car too). I am curious how much louder but less clean the HO is to the HF
I remember when the first version came out. They looked epic, and were a real bargain before inflation hit
Yea, inflation really hit these subs.
I’ve always loved the look of this series.
Me too. I like plain subwoofer cones with no logo.
I remember he took it out at some point today and placed it in the sink. Check if he did that again.
He also was placing things in that tissue box again.
Excellent vid! I would love a pair of theses, since i always get em in pairs...i was very impressed by the V1 ultimax, even though i was looking for a good car audio sub and it didnt reall shine as an spl sub, it made me realize not all subs are equal and that SQ is some thing else entirely. As a powerful high SQ it is amazing in home. If your cars is nice and quiet, this sub will also be a fantastic choice. Cant wait to try out the V2. I think a SQL build with a ton of these would be great either in home cinema or car.
I got to play with them the other day when I was at Dayton. Looks like they would make great daily subs with mid range power.
I agree.
Sub looks great. I have aways been a huge fan of dayton audio, everything I have ever seen from them was amazing. Unfortunatly where I am I have dificulty buying their products
Outside of the US?
@@DIYAudioGuy Yep, Brazil. (You got fans from all over. Your content is great and the delivery is even better. Thank you very much)
You video convinced me to make a dual opposed 18“ Ultimax II box
I bet that will sound awesome.
I bought the UMII 10" based on this video. They were super cheap and I wanted to see if I could upgrade the RSL Speedwoofer 10E I've had for a few months. The Speedwoofer is a great sub but lacks the lower bass heft I thought it would have. The UMII makes the stock RSL driver look soggy in comparison. Can't use the stock RSL grill either from that fat surround. I had to wire the coils on the new Ultimax in series to get 4 ohms but it works amazingly well. There's a big fat low end that was missing before. I came home to my GF watching the new Inside Out movie and that sub sounded incredible. Not the biggest room, but it was definitely reconfiguring the ambient pressure of the room. I love it. Might do a second one the same way.
I'm glad you like it!
I run the xmax Dayton and it has become one of my top 3 favorite drivers. I have run the older ultimax and I have nothing bad to say about it.
I was always hesitant to get the Dayton um because of all the qc issues which stopped me. When I saw this revision I figured I’d take a shot. Unfortunately right out of the box the paper cone neck joint was not glued onto the carbon fiber cone properly and is coming apart and all 4 terminals are sideways. Guess much has not changed :( thanks for the video I can’t wait to see you make a box and run some tests for us :)
They have a good return policy, stick it in a box and send it back.
GETTING SO CLOSE TO 100k!!!
Grinding every day.
You are so close to 100 k subscribers! Good job! Have you done or thought about doing a review on parts express 21 inch Kraken? I heard it's supposed to be as loud as 2 18 s. I know all speakers aren't created equally as far as performance, but that claim grabbed my attention.
I have twelve of the 18" original Ultimax in Infinite Baffle in my HT operating from about 10 to 35 Hz. For this I need very little power, only about 60 watts/driver. I'm pretty happy with the performance but it would be interesting to try the new version.
I see one negative at least for my application, the originals had two additional unused terminal mounts that I use to couple the drivers together with threaded rods. It appears the new version doesn't have this so I would need a new way to couple them to get the mechanical energy cancellation I have with the originals.
I've also heard that the new version is not a drop in replacement due to a different basket flange diameter, that would make replacing originals with the new more difficult.
Personally I'm finding the performance of the originals to be excellent for my application so if the new version is even better, it should definitely be a good choice for a DIY HT subwoofer.
I have the old 18", works great but power handling sucks. Needs to have a huge enclosure to have enough excursion to cool the voice coil on 1000W clamped power. It has only 2-layer voice coil and all modern subwoofers have 4-layer coils like the new version does. So maybe the upgraded version works better 🔊
2 layer coils keep inductance lower, better for sound quality but not power handling.
V1 vs V2: In a 4.5 cu ft ported box, the V1 has an F3 of ~17hz and can reach ~110dB SPL. The V2 needs to be tuned at 25hz to get an F3 of 22hz. But it can reach ~115dB. So V2 is a lot louder, but you will struggle to get flat bass extension down to 20hz for a HT application.
Would love to see a comparison video between these and the Stereo Integrity HT-18v3. Of course that would be the 18” versions
The sensitivity plots indeed do not show conversion efficiency, I.E. True maximum performance. The new Ultimax II looks really tempting now.
Thanks for the preview.
I can't wait to build a box, it will be a few weeks before I can get started!
@@DIYAudioGuy Still looking around into hifi and car audio, but PA recently got quite some price/performance boosts, and does very well with price/motor force/displacement volume ratios. This Dayton seem to do (scale price wise) fine as long as the enclosure can be somewhat large. I wish for next iteration of Dayton HO then. 🙂
Always wanted to make a front slot ported single 15" home theatre sub with this series but I need to improve my wood working skills first 😅
I can't wait to get a couple of the new 18s. I just hope Dayton comes out with a class D that can power them properly. I'd love a 1500w RMS amp with DSP that isn't a pro audio amp.
I still like the Dayton reference high excursion it's has a triple magnet more excursion but Dayton stopped making them. Lucky i bought a 12" before they were gone.
I got the Daytona 6.5" in my truck for mids. Also have 6" showllow and tweeters in another vehicle. Love the way they sound. I gonna have to ma5a video
My home theater is all DIY with Dayton Audio.
@@DIYAudioGuy bet it sounds good. The vehicle with the showllows in it is going to be active
Sweet review
It will be a few weeks before I will have time to build a box, can't wait to see how it sounds!
The old ultimax is actually fiberglass, hence the weight difference. I'm kind of interested because I have a carbon fiber floor standing speaker project. However, I ran the numbers and found the V2 is actually worse for an HT. It won't quite extend down to 20hz! (But it is a lot louder.)
I have 4 of the 10” in my truck (you can see it on my RUclips channel. They pound!! My box is tuned around 24hz with a 3 cubic foot box. It drops low!!! When people hear me coming they are surprised to know that it’s only 10” woofers not 12” or 15”. I love these woofers well the original ones. I’m curious on how the new ones sound
Unless my eyes are deceiving me, judging by your pictures, the mounting flange is narrower on the new Ultimax. Did that present a mounting issue when you built your new box?
it is narrower. That just means you have a little less margin of error when you cut you speaker holes.
Right now at the "free air resonance meaning more lows" theory part, FS doesnt mean much, all subs can smash lows with the correct box.
yes.
Hopefully better build quality, mine died after 3 months and started with coil rub so I never bothered with another
They make great headphones these days, Boom, boom boom boom .
I have been beating the sheet out of (2) ho12's for years in my truck and i WILL never own anything else ❤
@DIYAudioGuy would you use one of these (or their HF model) 8" size in a bandpass 4th order design? I am really curious if I can get pretty good bass out of a tiny sub/box. The 8" HF which I ordered says it fits in a .95 cuft. I have some SQL 12s that claim they can fit in as small as .75 or so.. which is insane to me a 12" with as big as it is could go in a small sealed box than the 8". But I have always loved the cleaner (and I thought deeper but maybe not) sound of the 4th order bandpass. I remember hearing the Bose acoustimas with the tiny cube speakers and hidden sub and was amazed at how the low freq sounded like it was coming from the small cubes. Then a friend built a 4th order 2cuft box (1.25 front side with dual 2" ports and .75 back side sealed, speaker inside) and it was insane how much bass it put out.. single 10" Orion or Hifonics sub.. cant remember it was like 30 years ago.. but it was hitting harder and louder than my dual 12s with 400watts at the time. So I have an itch to build a 4th order box of some sort, ideally small.. that could house something like one of these $100 8" subs and put out some good bass. Ideal for a small home theater or bedroom setup. What do you think? Worthy of a build video for you? Consider it a challenge. :D
Hey, you should seriously do a video on odd ball sized and shaped subwoofer enclosures. Like, does it affect sound if a box is to spec but has to be shaped like an S to fit.
Now that I've got the CNC, I guess I could build a box like that. The problem is the material cost. That's something you can help with. patreon.com/diyaudioguy
I'm just giving you ideas for videos that other creators haven't done yet. Like I'm doing an install in a camaro that to make spec for this guys subwoofers, I need to do odd ball rectangular pockets on the 2 sides to gain the correct air space. Would be interesting to know if that will change the sound much. I have more ideas as well for ya. Set yourself apart from the other creators to gain more views. I wouldn't even charge ya much and can give you my PayPal to deposit tips for my ideas and helping you gain viewers.
5:17 I don't see a point in simulating a fullrange response for a subwoofer, which will be cut off at 60-80Hz. Adding LPF into the sim does change the perspective a bit and might even result in different box tuning.
These subs remind me of my Atomic subs. Maybe made in the same plant. 😃
i have the ultimax 10 and this thing is crazy 4th order Bassreflex tune for around 20 hz i forgot it, but at home its stupid you put it in your car with the carbin gain it is brutal, i had outperform some 12inch woofers. i will build a new smaller boxed closed, its better for my SQL build
I had a Dayton ultimax 12, and measured the maximum excursion, placing the driver below a shelf and measuring the distance between the cone and the shelf, the furthest that I could physically push the cone before ripping the spider, was 12mm, I was a bit disappointed, because the spec says 19mm. (Perhaps the xmax is rated peak to peak, so that would be 9.5mm, and xmech 12mm, each way).
Seems to me that the new version is the same, 12mm or less, given the performance that you have shown.
I don't believe you. Spiders are made out of very durable material, I have cut a few out over the past few years and they don't just break like that. Plus, that is not how xmax is measured.
It didn't break, I just pushed it until I couldn't possibly push it any further. So the um12 has a max excursion of 12mm each way
They're decent drivers, but are by no means a long throw. 12mm is ok. I replaced my um12 with a scanspeak 30w, much better, and a longer throw, I measured it to be 18mm each way
@@DIYAudioGuy perhaps you could measure the excursion on your ultimax drivers, old and new. Don't trust the specs
Single 10" with a Passive radiator pairing. EBP?
On some of the forums allot of people say the carbon cone daytons don't use any kind of resin or seal over the carbon so it let's air through, have you experienced that at all?
Carbon fiber with no resin would be way too flexible. I highly doubt Dayton Audio was worried about cost enough to save 5 cents on resin. Whoever told you this probably thinks all carbon fiber needs excess resin so it is smooth.
That is a new one on me.
Right, it is a lot like fiberglass, with no resin then it would just be fibers flopping around.
ive heard this also.. not really that there is no resin, but between the weeves of the carbon leaks... it was on the epique drivers.. maybe just a quality defect that went through for a batch?
i have sundown components for my car that i havnt hooked up yet.. i feel like this issue is going to effect these drivers as well.. i can blow through the carbon cones it seems... kinda weirded me out after spending 500 bones... they look good tho.. one day ill install them..
🤷
So how did it actually compare to the old version,? Im curious if it was able to play pretty low
It'll be a few weeks before I have a chance to build a box.
I want to try the PSS555-8...
I like Dayton Audio "H.O." and "H.F." series better, because they actually have a dust cap! Looks much better IMO. And these two little Subs have nothing on the Kraken 21!🍺
My kids are finally at that age that I don’t need to keep the back of my Toyota Venza available for strollers….so I’m in the market for some subs. I’m starting from scratch, and in all honesty, I’m very naive to this process. I’ve found a 2400w Skar 12 prefab on Amazon……should I just pull the trigger on these? Or is there a better avenue for me? Appreciate any responses
😊I'm in the same boat and just got a Stinger prefab box and amp. Wow, for the money it pounds.
I have never heard an Ultimax, but I want to. I like a sealed sub with a broad operating range (fast and low). Looks like I can get one from Solen for about 300 bucks, should I go for it?, I used to have a sealed Eclipse 8700 series sub setup that i have never been able to replicate.
I had the other one in a passive radiator box, it was tuned a little bit too low so it wasn't very loud, but man would it shake!
Hate how plate amps get exponentially more expensive the more powerful they get. Like a plate amp that could run this woofer could easily be twice the price of the woofer. I'd happily pay 300 bones for this woofer but 600 for an amp is just too much for me:(
Tiene una jaula parecida a los MA, y el cono a los antiguos audiobahn
How does it compare to the reference HO range for sound quality?
I've not had a chance to do a comparison.
reference series have much lower Qts, so are more suitable for a more effective, bigger bass reflex enclosures. Ultimax is ideal for small sealed, or veeery low tuned bassreflex.
Nice looking sub but There rms is too dam low for me
You keep saying the OG is carbon fiber but its not, its fiberglass composite
I didn't believe you so I went to look it up, apparently it's made out of nomex. I learn something new everyday.
Would the ultimate 12"have better/more bass than a skar evl 12"?
I would say the two drivers are built for a different purpose. Pretty sure the evl12 can handle more power, it'll play it louder. Both the ultimax is more of a sound quality driver.
@@DIYAudioGuy does that mean the evl would have better bass? The evl handles 1500w rms and 2500w max
@@teenperfect5092 I personally would go with the ultimax because it's going to sound better. But there are plenty of other good reasons to buy the Skar.
I have a goofy plan, maybe someone could give me advice.
I can't have a sub box in my Sequoia because I need the room so I'm planning modifying the existing sub box (around .5 ft cu) with fiber glass.
My plan is to use one Memphis Mojo 8 at RMS tuned with a Audison DSP.
I'm not a base head and a prefer a balanced full sound, with excellent sound quality, that I can play loudly. Is that Mojo driver the right choice or would something like this 400 w RMS 8in sub be sufficient?
That sounds like a lot of work for very little return. Instead, I would recommend a 10-in subwoofer down firing in a thin box. That would definitely hit your goal of rounding out the lower end and if you needed the cargo space you can stack stuff on top of the box.
@@DIYAudioGuy that's sad to hear.
Unfortunately that's not an option. I use all my trunk space for vast amounts of production equipment that slide in through my trunk. An immovable box would be extraordinary counter productive.
Have you tried the Mojo 8 before. Is the sound quality atleast decent? I can't tell is it's loud and sloppy or loud and decent.
@@SimplestUsername I have no direct experience with Memphis Audio. If fiberglass in stock location is your only choice try to get as much airspace as you can, maybe try one on both sides of the rear hatch.
New ones need to big of a box
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.Pulled the trigger on the 10". Need a quote for a win isd work for a passive radiator box. This is the only way to contact you for now. I do not follow mainstream social media outlets. . So, i guess mainstream or bust huh? So many views and likes wasted on this channel
I wouldn't have another UM if it were FREE ..... the build quality SUCKS ASS and i have 2 15s that are paper weights as do many others - the HYPE is all bullshit ..... you're welcome
I have never had a problem with them, sorry you had a bad experience.
Needs 1 more ferrite