I tried inverting my JL Audio subwoofer once. I did not like it. Sounded "sloppy". I put it back the normal way. I never invert my subs. In the end, you are sacrificing cone area and sound quality by doing so. The majority who do it is just for show. Some people like em that way but to each their own. If I want to display my sub's magnet or basket, Id just build an acrylic enclosure.
The only advantage of investing a sub is if the box was too small or if you run sealed at high power. If the box is too small it will give a little more airspace. If you invert the sub in a spec box you'll have to much air and cause sloppy bass. If you run sealed subs at high power levels under building the box and inverting will create better cooling and you can smell the coils if they get hot
The noise from sub is just mechanicle noise all subs are like it have you never heard a sub in free air they sound shite and very mecanicle. The box doesnt look like its been built the best but i have to give you props for making content on something you love doing and alot of people will find it very informative keep up the good work
Not all subs sound like like shit in free air. That's the difference between an SQ sub and one just designed for SPL. Technically, NO speakers should make ANY noise at all but that's a difficult task to do when you have parts moving back and forth so fast, Very few companies actually make subs that are considered SQ like... Morel, Audio Frog, JL Audio, Stereo Integrity, Singer, Kicker Q's and a few others.
Maybe you could do a vid on the difference in mechanicle noise between spl sub and an SQ sub. It would be very interesting to see. Thanks for your reply not many people reply to their comments. Just watching ur vid on custom box thats how i seen u replyed to me haha 👍
@@Bassotronics I have subwoofers of all brands, some of the most expensive subs ever made... and one thing they have in common is that all of them sound like total shit in free air. So yes, every sub sounds bad in free air, because every sub requires mechanical resistance of the air pressure a box provides. There are no subwoofers designed to run completely free air, at least not for car audio. Some subs are designed to run in infinite baffle, but that's still not free air. There's also no such thing as an "SQ" sub, that's marketing and you fell for it. Sorry. 30Hz is 30Hz. Subs aren't midbass speakers or tweeters handling large sound bandwidth, so "quality" is not something a human can detect unless there's literally something wrong with the sub or installation and it's behaving in a manner out of line with it's designed intent.
@ I guess you never heard a JL Audio subwoofer that I gave praise many years ago for having great excursion with almost no inheritance mechanical noises. As well as Stereo Integrity. Of coarse, all speakers are gonna make some type of noise when pushed to its limits, that’s logical but in moderate circumstances what I said holds true. I think you need to do a bit more research.
@@Bassotronics All speakers make mechanical noise, some more than others... none of which you can hear under normal conditions of operation unless you're specifically listening/looking for things or using something like a DATS to record it. Barevids has debunked the idea multiple times that there's a "sound quality" difference when it comes to subwoofers and subwoofer amplifiers. I've done plenty of research mate, I've been building SPL systems since the 1990's - no offence, because your content is pretty good and you are making a good effort to provide good information - but there's a lot of BS in the industry and many people still fall for it even now. Most of it's marketing and nothing more than a belief in something...
Inverting your sub is good in two situations. First, the motor structure has an inherent noise. Inverting one sub in a pair can cancel this sound and give you more pure sound. Ensure you phase match the woofers. Secondly, equalizing suspension movements. Remembering back to cerwin vega stroker, a tunable spider could be important if the sub is biased high or low in the xmas. Inverting one sub in a pair will help normalize the xmas bias in an identical pair, similar to point one. Third you mentioned in the video; improved cooling Fourth you also mentioned, box size could be designed with out the subs structure taking up space. For this though, you have to normalize the cone space that adds to the box due to the inversion of the sub since the cone volume doesn't start with a flat surface most of the time. Fifth you also mentioned it looks killer to invert the sub sometimes. Great content, keep up the videos.
Killing me with the screw driver man. Where’s your power tools? You’re very smart I see…you need to invest in power tools to make things easy on yourself.
The SDR 18 and 15 both sound great and do sound a little bit similar in terms of sound quality. The SDR 15 does get pretty low, but the SDR 18 definitely plays the lows with more authority as my 18 goes down to 12hz. They both can get loud with not too much power but the 18 can get quite a bit louder than the 15. They both are great subs, but I would recommended spending the bit of extra money and get the 18 if you're able to fit it. The 18 has that bass I can really feel, but I can still feel the 15 but not as much as the 18 especially when they're playing low.
I killed the 18 sdr on a JP8 on in very little time. Skar allowed me to upgrade tot he evl 15 and it was a good choice. I would not recommend the SDR. Bass is like weed the more you hit it the more you want it.
@WaveImages they are fantastic for getting loud on low power. Their sound quality isn't too bad but I find they sound a little sloppy in a way that's hard to explain. I had one and upgraded to ddx then vxf then 2 sundown uv2 12s. If you ever feel like stepping it up a bit a ddx is quite alot better and still get loud on not much power and is a fantastic upgrade from a sdr and they absolutely do sound a good but better. I just found the sdr wasn't great with transitions from one bass note to another. Not very tight and responsive other than that they sound awesome and ddxs can pound alot harder. Not shitting on you're stuff just saying if you a good upgrade and don't wanna break the bank try a ddx
Yeah, that sub is dead brodie. My Atomic APXX sounded the same way in the early days and I thought the same thing another guy here said, "it's just mechanical noise", it's not. It's a partial burn of the voice coil that's causing it to unwind. As time goes on, it will unravel more and more until that rattley noise is unbearably loud. I bought my sub the same time as another guy I'm familiar with, he had the same amps, very nearly an identical setup to mine, and his does not rattle, it's not mechanical noise. Unlike a full burn, the sub will still work and still make bass, but you'll notice that it'll rattle like crazy on certain frequencies, play a sine sweep and you'll see what I mean. When you buy your new sub, play it in free air and tell me how much "mechanical noise" you hear, dudes be having damaged subs and gaslighting themselves into believing it being broken is normal.
Also also, this is exactly why I make sure to never blast my shit as full volume for at least a few minutes, let the coils warm up, because sudden spikes of energy cause spot burns, the voicecoil can handle a lot more power, but it's ice cold and there might be a slight weakness in that particular piece of coil that causes it to heat up a little faster than the rest. Once it's all evenly warmed up, it can transfer heat evenly through the coil and into the basket to be vented, but if it hot spots in one place repeatedly every time you turn it on, it's going to burn out that one spot.
Thanks for pointing that out. My audio track got slightly moved and I only noticed once my video was finished and ready to upload, but will be synced correctly next video.
Both agree and disagree, MDF is a pretty "dead" board and without dampening it will hit hard and loud, so good for spl. A chipboard have less glue and you will have to make the sides thicker to hold its form, but instead its a softer board you will get a warmer sound, a bit softer sound and a bit better sound. So its really up to the lisener what sound you prefer ;) but if i would build it i would go for build quality and a bit more easy to build i would say MDF and ported i would dampen 2 sides for ex top and back to make the box a bit better soulding, and buy real dampening not that you used in this vid
Ofc has less resistance/impedance than other common types of wire. Ofc won't increase clarity. Wire diameter is important for power transfer, too thin will cause impedance which will cause wire heat instead of coil power. Wire size is much more important than the actual composition at these power levels. I've never heard clarity be used with a subwoofer; clarity is usually used with midrange and tweeter ranged frequencies.
That is one janky box but I’m not hating. Use what you have at your expense and it being only a SDR as opposed to 60+ pound powerhouse. I had 2 SDR 15’s years ago and enjoyed them for what they were, but I am someone who is a whore when it comes to buying and selling subs, I have tried a bit of everything that is on the market.
I was watching some of your vids. And I noticed you know nothing about what you're talking about. retire from content creation and stick with things you know. thanks! also are you the bay harbor butcher.
@@WaveImages in the trunk of my car, single concept CSP 18D2. 4" coil 10" 3 layer spider pack. I'm not sure why but it's not giving me the option to post pic in comments
Do you have Discord or something so I can add you on there and if you want to show me how to build a good box cuz if you look in my old videos I try to build a box for my subwoofer and it looks like a trash can
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I tried inverting my JL Audio subwoofer once. I did not like it. Sounded "sloppy".
I put it back the normal way. I never invert my subs. In the end, you are sacrificing cone area and sound quality by doing so.
The majority who do it is just for show. Some people like em that way but to each their own. If I want to display my sub's magnet or basket, Id just build an acrylic enclosure.
The only advantage of investing a sub is if the box was too small or if you run sealed at high power. If the box is too small it will give a little more airspace. If you invert the sub in a spec box you'll have to much air and cause sloppy bass. If you run sealed subs at high power levels under building the box and inverting will create better cooling and you can smell the coils if they get hot
Start using weather stripping around your sub/seal, no leaks!
The noise from sub is just mechanicle noise all subs are like it have you never heard a sub in free air they sound shite and very mecanicle. The box doesnt look like its been built the best but i have to give you props for making content on something you love doing and alot of people will find it very informative keep up the good work
Not all subs sound like like shit in free air. That's the difference between an SQ sub and one just designed for SPL.
Technically, NO speakers should make ANY noise at all but that's a difficult task to do when you have parts moving back and forth so fast,
Very few companies actually make subs that are considered SQ like... Morel, Audio Frog, JL Audio, Stereo Integrity, Singer, Kicker Q's and a few others.
Maybe you could do a vid on the difference in mechanicle noise between spl sub and an SQ sub. It would be very interesting to see.
Thanks for your reply not many people reply to their comments.
Just watching ur vid on custom box thats how i seen u replyed to me haha 👍
@@Bassotronics I have subwoofers of all brands, some of the most expensive subs ever made... and one thing they have in common is that all of them sound like total shit in free air. So yes, every sub sounds bad in free air, because every sub requires mechanical resistance of the air pressure a box provides. There are no subwoofers designed to run completely free air, at least not for car audio. Some subs are designed to run in infinite baffle, but that's still not free air. There's also no such thing as an "SQ" sub, that's marketing and you fell for it. Sorry. 30Hz is 30Hz. Subs aren't midbass speakers or tweeters handling large sound bandwidth, so "quality" is not something a human can detect unless there's literally something wrong with the sub or installation and it's behaving in a manner out of line with it's designed intent.
@
I guess you never heard a JL Audio subwoofer that I gave praise many years ago for having great excursion with almost no inheritance mechanical noises.
As well as Stereo Integrity.
Of coarse, all speakers are gonna make some type of noise when pushed to its limits, that’s logical but in moderate circumstances what I said holds true.
I think you need to do a bit more research.
@@Bassotronics All speakers make mechanical noise, some more than others... none of which you can hear under normal conditions of operation unless you're specifically listening/looking for things or using something like a DATS to record it. Barevids has debunked the idea multiple times that there's a "sound quality" difference when it comes to subwoofers and subwoofer amplifiers. I've done plenty of research mate, I've been building SPL systems since the 1990's - no offence, because your content is pretty good and you are making a good effort to provide good information - but there's a lot of BS in the industry and many people still fall for it even now. Most of it's marketing and nothing more than a belief in something...
Inverting your sub is good in two situations. First, the motor structure has an inherent noise. Inverting one sub in a pair can cancel this sound and give you more pure sound. Ensure you phase match the woofers. Secondly, equalizing suspension movements. Remembering back to cerwin vega stroker, a tunable spider could be important if the sub is biased high or low in the xmas. Inverting one sub in a pair will help normalize the xmas bias in an identical pair, similar to point one.
Third you mentioned in the video; improved cooling
Fourth you also mentioned, box size could be designed with out the subs structure taking up space. For this though, you have to normalize the cone space that adds to the box due to the inversion of the sub since the cone volume doesn't start with a flat surface most of the time.
Fifth you also mentioned it looks killer to invert the sub sometimes.
Great content, keep up the videos.
I've got 4 gothic 12s inverted in a 6 cube it hits much better inverted I picked up 6 db from inverting
Also I'm pushing em with a sundown 2k
I've heard about the gothic subwoofers being a good value for the money. I bet your quad sub setup hits hard.
Killing me with the screw driver man. Where’s your power tools?
You’re very smart I see…you need to invest in power tools to make things easy on yourself.
I was watching some of your vids. And I noticed you have the skar sdr 15 and 18. Which one do you like better? And do they sound similar?
The SDR 18 and 15 both sound great and do sound a little bit similar in terms of sound quality. The SDR 15 does get pretty low, but the SDR 18 definitely plays the lows with more authority as my 18 goes down to 12hz. They both can get loud with not too much power but the 18 can get quite a bit louder than the 15. They both are great subs, but I would recommended spending the bit of extra money and get the 18 if you're able to fit it. The 18 has that bass I can really feel, but I can still feel the 15 but not as much as the 18 especially when they're playing low.
I killed the 18 sdr on a JP8 on in very little time. Skar allowed me to upgrade tot he evl 15 and it was a good choice. I would not recommend the SDR. Bass is like weed the more you hit it the more you want it.
Just released a new video comparing the two here: ruclips.net/video/Wz6GuRROiDk/видео.html
@WaveImages they are fantastic for getting loud on low power. Their sound quality isn't too bad but I find they sound a little sloppy in a way that's hard to explain. I had one and upgraded to ddx then vxf then 2 sundown uv2 12s. If you ever feel like stepping it up a bit a ddx is quite alot better and still get loud on not much power and is a fantastic upgrade from a sdr and they absolutely do sound a good but better. I just found the sdr wasn't great with transitions from one bass note to another. Not very tight and responsive other than that they sound awesome and ddxs can pound alot harder. Not shitting on you're stuff just saying if you a good upgrade and don't wanna break the bank try a ddx
Yeah, that sub is dead brodie. My Atomic APXX sounded the same way in the early days and I thought the same thing another guy here said, "it's just mechanical noise", it's not. It's a partial burn of the voice coil that's causing it to unwind. As time goes on, it will unravel more and more until that rattley noise is unbearably loud. I bought my sub the same time as another guy I'm familiar with, he had the same amps, very nearly an identical setup to mine, and his does not rattle, it's not mechanical noise. Unlike a full burn, the sub will still work and still make bass, but you'll notice that it'll rattle like crazy on certain frequencies, play a sine sweep and you'll see what I mean. When you buy your new sub, play it in free air and tell me how much "mechanical noise" you hear, dudes be having damaged subs and gaslighting themselves into believing it being broken is normal.
Also also, this is exactly why I make sure to never blast my shit as full volume for at least a few minutes, let the coils warm up, because sudden spikes of energy cause spot burns, the voicecoil can handle a lot more power, but it's ice cold and there might be a slight weakness in that particular piece of coil that causes it to heat up a little faster than the rest. Once it's all evenly warmed up, it can transfer heat evenly through the coil and into the basket to be vented, but if it hot spots in one place repeatedly every time you turn it on, it's going to burn out that one spot.
Agreed, its coil wrap scraping the wall of the motor.
keep up the good work because i love your content and im also a basshead i drive 2 pa 12 inch subs and they go deep
Good video.
🤯🤯🤯🤯wait... did dude really just do that without a power drill?....im dyiiiiing
Whatever gets the job done
the video was awesome but your video latency is kinda rough i can notice your lips and voice have a delay whenever you spoke in from of your camera
Thanks for pointing that out. My audio track got slightly moved and I only noticed once my video was finished and ready to upload, but will be synced correctly next video.
Make your Box out of MDF sounds better
Both agree and disagree, MDF is a pretty "dead" board and without dampening it will hit hard and loud, so good for spl. A chipboard have less glue and you will have to make the sides thicker to hold its form, but instead its a softer board you will get a warmer sound, a bit softer sound and a bit better sound. So its really up to the lisener what sound you prefer ;) but if i would build it i would go for build quality and a bit more easy to build i would say MDF and ported i would dampen 2 sides for ex top and back to make the box a bit better soulding, and buy real dampening not that you used in this vid
Bro is using a hand saw and a screwdriver i don't think mdf is in the budget he made the tools work but still.
Who does work like this with a hand screwdriver
I have a drill but just decided to use the screwdriver.
I bet everything he did not reverse the polarity.
The polarity was reversed.
I bet if you got some ofc wire you would gain some clarity
Ofc has less resistance/impedance than other common types of wire. Ofc won't increase clarity. Wire diameter is important for power transfer, too thin will cause impedance which will cause wire heat instead of coil power. Wire size is much more important than the actual composition at these power levels. I've never heard clarity be used with a subwoofer; clarity is usually used with midrange and tweeter ranged frequencies.
Did you invert also the speaker connection?
Yes I inverted the connection so it was playing with correct polarity.
The SUB RATTLING is annoying? It comes from the WOOFER itself.🤗🤑🤔🎤🎸🎶😭
Literally changes nothing but adding some volume to the enclosure
He explained that in the video as as well.
That is one janky box but I’m not hating. Use what you have at your expense and it being only a SDR as opposed to 60+ pound powerhouse. I had 2 SDR 15’s years ago and enjoyed them for what they were, but I am someone who is a whore when it comes to buying and selling subs, I have tried a bit of everything that is on the market.
What a waste of six minutes! It’s been proven over and over if you use junk, it’s gonna sound like junk
Sounds great to me.
@@WaveImages
Haters gonna hate...
I was watching some of your vids. And I noticed you know nothing about what you're talking about. retire from content creation and stick with things you know. thanks! also are you the bay harbor butcher.
It will never reach the output levels it's designed for with a box made from trailer park wall paneling, SMH!
Where's your subwoofer at?
@@WaveImages in the trunk of my car, single concept CSP 18D2. 4" coil 10" 3 layer spider pack. I'm not sure why but it's not giving me the option to post pic in comments
I'm running it with a true 2500watt RMS amp, big alt, 100amhr lithium cell, all 0 gadge ofc welding lead.
@@jasondeshazo7754...you must feel like a big man now that you've -made up- *shown off* how good your system is...
🙄
In your dreams...
Do you have Discord or something so I can add you on there and if you want to show me how to build a good box cuz if you look in my old videos I try to build a box for my subwoofer and it looks like a trash can