The Truth - Rubio Monocoat Really That Good?
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Is Rubio Monocoat all it is cracked up to be?
Rubio Monocoat pure: amzn.to/3G45ZxW
Wood Whisperer's video: • How to Apply Rubio Mon...
Are Rubio Monocoat products really that good? In this video, we test out Rubio Monocoat to see if it's really that great!
After using Rubio Monocoat for half a decade, it is now my go-to finish for furniture and woodworking. The protection of Rubio Monocoat is top notch and nothing beats that smell!
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Been using Rubio almost exclusively for a couple years and love it. I’d recommend using a white Scotch Brite pad as the applicator. Cut off the smallest piece needed rub it in.
Thanks for the video.
I second the white scotch pad.
I’ve used Rubio and Osmo both and have got to say that the color of the two influences my choice quite a bit; but then I’m also thinking the cost shapes even that. If it’s a lighter color like white oak, elm, ash, beech etc, then I’m reaching for Osmo. If it’s walnut, sycamore, black cherry then the Rubio. If it’s quartersawn then absolutely the Rubio. I think they both have their place.
I prefer Osmo in most applications. I've finished walnut, mahogany, cherry, oak, and ash with it in the past few years and I've had no complaints or fuss at all. My standard application practice is to wipe a flood coat on with a white scotchbrite pad then wipe off 20 minutes later with an old teeshirt. I don't typically buff it out until the second coat 24 hours later. The second coat I apply with a clean cloth with a thin film layer and again wipe off 20 minutes later. I will say that hard wax oils aren't the best if you work in any cold environment. I think it realistically needs to be 55F or higher.
Rubio's colors are noticeably better in my eyes. To be fair I've only used a few offerings from each manufacturer....but even still, I think I prefer Rubio.
I love using Rubio; just like you said it is very easy and hard to mess up. I found I like using their applicator pads to rub in the finish. The pad is pretty much non-absorbent, so you don’t lose much Rubio compared to using a cloth applicator. Pour on some finish, use the applicator pad to distribute and buff into the wood, then a few minutes later come back with a clean cloth to remove any excess remaining.
I'm curious your thoughts on tongue oil vs linseed oil. I use mostly lacquer due to the fast dry time, no sanding between, and most of my projects are carvings and have irregular shapes so spraying is necessary. Recently I've started using tongue oil for cutting boards but it takes weeks to cure. However, food save no VOCs. I've always stayed away from linseed oil because of the combustibility with rags. Curious your thoughts on tongue oil.
Functionally true tongue oil is basically identical to linseed oil. They both can combust and catch rags on fire under the right circumstances. They both have a very similar look and feel and application. You have to be careful with tung oil as most brands have almost no tung oil in them and they end up being a linseed oil mixed with other things. Pure tongue oil comes from the tongue tree. And it is distilled and treated much like boiled Linseed oil. As to the vocs you can get boiled linseed oil without. And same thing with tung oil you can get it with and without. Drying time in both depends heavily on the processing and what was added into the oil. Both of them can dry in under 24 hours or a couple weeks depending upon how they're processed.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks!
I've not used Rubio, but have done some work with Odie's Oil (another hard-wax oil)---mostly on Cherry---and I like it for all the reasons you mention... easy & foolproof to apply, not time-sensitive, doesn't require a completely dust-free environment like poly, smells nice, no VOCs, don't need gloves, hard-wearing, easy-to-repair, etc. It's great to work with.
Odie's doesn't have pre-colored oil, but they have (powdered) pigments you can add to create your own colors. I love this stuff too! It's similarly foolproof... the resulting color depends only on the pigment you add, and not on how long you leave the oil before wiping (unlike a stain, which is *very* time sensitive).
The only potential drawback w/Odie's is that they don't have a hardener like Rubio does, so a full cure takes a few weeks (though it's OK for light duty after a few days, and it smells nice enough that I don't mind leaving it inside the house while it cures).
This just popped up in my feed at a very appropriate time. I'm not too far off from finishing a dining table and have been agonizing over how to finish it. I think I may have the answer now 😊
The cost is deceptive because so very little of it goes a very long way. The per-piece or per-square-foot isn't that high, so you just have to justify that in your head. :)
I used it for a mahogany door ( as in the main door). And now, three years after, still looks like new. It is , of course , the outdoor version. But, it is the best stuff I have ever used
Is your house close to either coast of the US or is it landlocked?
It is actually in Danmark. About 800 meters from the sea. A lot of rain and wind
Does your door get sunshine on it ? How well does it protect the door from UVs and does it break down like a Helmsman?
@@webcrawler3332 It gets sun in the afternoon.
Thank you for the response.
I just applied this product to a greenland style kayak paddle, definitely an endurance test, it goes on easily, and not too difficult to buff out, looks great, smells good too, a lot easier than linseed and wax, thanks for your video as I have had some difficulty finding proper instruction from the company, the technical sheet doesnt say much, just wait 12 hours to cure, so the information you supplied has certainly helped a lot
It’s good stuff. I’m not quite sold on it for everything because of the labor to put it on and buff off. It does look cool though. Many options with color. Lots you can do. However: the smell! 😅No, sorry. Just no. I’ve spent hours in the wood shop working with this stuff and at the end of the day it’s the last thing I want to smell.
An adamant Poly guy for thirty plus years. Perfectly dry, clean, ventilated(???) and conditioned space required. Apply first coat. Light sand. Rinse repeat three or four times. Last coat, find three paint brush bristles......one more coat. Found Rubio Monocoat through a RUclipsr and tried it out maybe two years ago. Amazingly simple. Almost hard to screw up as long as you make sure you remove the excess. Put it on a toy box for my grandkids. Banging in and out of it for over a year now. Drinks sitting on it. Some pretty good test subjects and it still looks awesome. Have started to use it on furniture builds and even refinishing some antiques. Doesn't yellow like Poly. Not killing my lungs. When I have a top that I think will be exposed to liquid, I have tried a ceramic top coat. Will let you know how it works over time, but for most things, I am now a Rubio man. Yes, it is expensive, but for the ease of use and durability, worth every penny.
Have you used it on cutting, charcuterie boards?
@@sjb3460 No, I use cutting board oil on cutting boards. I have heard it is food safe, but haven't tried it.
T@@poppamad979 thanks. I have decided not to make cutting boards for now. I will be making premium, heirloom-grade charcuterie boards. Last week I bought zebra wood, curly cherry, purple heart, calico walnut, rainbow sycamore, curly maple and some leopard wood.
Right now I'm investigating finishing the charcuterie boards. I don't want them to be used as a cutting board or tossed in the back of the cabinet with the pots and pans. I want my customers to proudly display their charcuterie boards as decorating accessories. I have plans to buy other premium quality wood with lots of figure and character (no wormholes or hollow knotty wood). I'm considering a French polish but I'm concerned that someone will use my board as a chopping block and ruin the finish. My goal is to have my charcuterie boards fought over like Grandma's cast iron skillets are fought over by daughters and daughters-in-law. hahaha My sister has my mother's and our grandmother's which is fine as I'm a poor cook. I'm a retired tool and die maker and Army CH47 helicopter mechanic.
@@poppamad979did you ever try a ceramic? It seems the idea for the ceramic coatings came from automotive finishes. Which I want to explore more because there are tons of highly rated automotive branded ceramic finishes for a fraction of the price of those marketed towards woodworkers.
Rubio Monocoat is def my fav as well, but a good alternative is Fiddies. Half the price as Rubio.
I make and sell my own finish called Tung Honey. Pure Tung Oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax blend. I bet you'd love it for ur hand tools but i mostly use it on spoons, charcuterie boards, etc.
I also like the Rubio monocote. Just started using it, when before, my favorite was the old Deft wipe on poly. There now is a 'ceramic' top cote that originated in the auto paint industry, and now is available for wood. Not sure if Rubio has it or not, but there are several sources.
hey James, thanks for this feed back, been on BLO since the begining, i see many youtuber using this product and i was like .. damn i would give it a try ... and then my blo looks at me angrily .. so does my wallet , and i m back in the old habbits :D
I'll give it a try, hope to be as positively pleased as you seems to be!
love Rubio, (natural). to me it smells like applesauce.
Loved this, thanks!
Brian Shulz over at Cape Falcon Kayak used this in his kitchen, he had similar results to you. And now he's been experimenting with Ruben on ... kayak paddles! See ruclips.net/video/Y6phfHyfvpM/видео.html
For walnut and cherry it's my go to finish and I will do the maintenance oil after 36 hours to give it a bit more depth and shine. It is an oil though and it gives lighter colored wood that ambering that makes it look like every other lighter colored wood with oil on it. Make sure you use something like Bloxygen or similar to displace the air because it will crust over in the can. If your going to mortgage the house to buy some you better take care of it.
Are there really any downsides to rubbing down with finer grits? I've got a nice Hi-Fi record deck which I've rubbed down to 400 grit, and would struggle to roughen it up with 180 to apply Rubio. Has anyone tried applying Rubio after finer sanding? If so, what was the result? Any thoughts? Brilliant video as usual.
I will often go down to 400 grit. It only suggests 180 for floors.
I like boiled linseed oil sometimes I would let it set sit for about a month and put poly on it
Using Rubio on a pine dresser top. I applied two heavy coats of General Finishes wood dye, that sat for about a week. Then applied one coat of Oil Plus 2C Pure. There are a few places where the finish is dull and I read that when working with softwoods, Rubio recommends using a second coat. Any thoughts?
Yes. It is very difficult for it to bond to softwood. Particularly if you already applied a stain or other finish. I would hit it very lightly with around 300. Great sandpaper and that will give the surface something to bond to.
Love Rubio. Your demo used way too much Monocoat. Read the directions. You can put too much on but never take too much off. This stuff is expensive yet requires so little it evens out the investment. I thought the little 350 ml can was not enough but the directions say it will cover 105 to 175 sq. ft. Indeed, I wasted a lot on my first project because unlike oil finishes you don't let it pool "to soak in" as it bonds to the surface completely in about 5 minutes. We old guys of traditional oil finishes just need to learn the efficiency of this product.
Yeah for the video I made up a minimum batch which was too much for the space provided. But that's the cost of making videos.
Is this finish compatible with mahogany deck around a above ground pool
Sure. But I would use their exterior version.
Instead of boiled linseed oil, I’ve become a fan of Tung oil and a coat of wax Similar Results between the two but linseed oil turns yellow (more and more over time) and takes longer to dry.
Thanks! I don’t recall you discussing tung oil in previous videos. Why don’t you use, or like, it?
I don't use it much as it it almost identical to BLO but it is harder to get true raw.
Will this work on a reclaimed English wood beam table from Restoration Hardware? Lots of marks and imperfections.
If you can run a rag across it and wipe it up then yes it will work. But if there are splinters and snags that they rag gets ripped up on then no it will not.
I graduated from OSMO to Monocoat - what's your take on comparing thetwo?
Monocoat is much better in my book.
can Rubio Monocoat be used on a table slab with an epoxy filled crack? I was told that it would not adhere to the epoxy in the crack but I am not so worried about the epoxy in the crack. I just want the would to be protected and have a great finish.
Yes. I did that and epoxy filled table a couple times. It doesn't adhere to the epoxy but the epoxy doesn't need it it's its own finish. But it blends in perfectly with the wood around it.
After switching to it for game tables I instantly fell in love with it. Especially being a smell and ease of application are a godssend.
When you consider time applying other finish, lower volume usage I would argue you're saving money in finish if you're doing it as a business and can afford it I highly recommend. My dicetrays have never looked better than after I switched!
love it. but smells like old cooking grease.
dang thanks for the info, i been using oil from my duramax to finish my black walnut projects. ill try this stuff next time
I am doing a video here soon comparing a few of the new finished. it is interesting so far.
This is fantastic! Been wondering what is so great about Rubio mono-coat.. so many ppl use and mention it but few have explained it this simply. Can't wait to pick some up now. I too love the boiled linseed oil and paste wax finish (Rex Kruger introduced me) but hated that it didn't offer protection! And hated the fake plastic look of built up finishes, thx for the video, simple and to the point!!!
There are a lot of people online that discuss rubio monocoat on floors and how dog drool leaves spots that will not come up. Any experience with dogs and getting drool on the finish. We are looking at it for kitchen cabinets and wondering how it would hold up.
I don't have any dogs. But I have three kids and our dining room table and kitchen counters are all finished with it. And it is incredibly resilient. And if there's anything that does stick it's literally two or three minutes worth of work to repair it. You can spot scrape it and slather on another coat it's just that spot and it blends in perfectly. I've only had to do that once and that was when one of the kids was chewing on the edge of the table putting deep scratches into it. But it's held up to all their art projects and paints over the years.
My preferred oil is finished - first choice Tung oil because of its durability - it is creating protective film but it takes a lot of time to fully cure, color, food safe and love the smell of it and love the texture after it's cures . Second BLI love the way it gives color tunes to the wood, the texture, because i am not using home made it's not food safe and it doesn't give the protective film like the Tung but i think it cure faster. Denish oil for fast cure, much less durable than the above but it is keeping the natural colors of the wood. I using also water based poly if doing properly it's can be beautiful and give an excellent protective film on the wood fir indoor projects but not so for outdoor projects while the project is subjected to direct sun light - i live in the desert
First and foremost James, best wishes to you and your family.
In Belgium (Flanders), Rubio Monocoat is mainly sold for the treatment of parquet floors. It will therefore have to give a very good protection to the wood.
Fantastic video, James! Thanks! 😃
I just hope products like that end up getting to Brazil as well!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And happy new year!
Love your positive spirit, the in depth, but still simple explanaitions for "average Joe".
Just used Osmo on a harp - looks and feels great, we’ll see how it holds up
Smart. Can't use a film finish on an acoustical musical instrument, as it will change the tone. Well, unless that's what you want.
Thanks James! This is why I love this channel, impartial information about great products
excellent dad joke at the end!
Thanks for sharing an always no nonsense layman's explanation...I've started using either Odies Oil or Tried & True which both appear to provide a handsome, durable finish, but I'll invest the $60 to try this Rubio because you were impressed with its results...with me, nearly everything is R & D..Thanks again!
Never heard of Rubio before, but I'll certainly have to check it out. I'm a huge fan of using Stockholm Tar on wood. Everyone talks about the nasty BLO stuff, but gimme Stockholm Tar any day of the week! It's more expensive than BLO, hence why so many have turned their backs on it, but I love the color it gives to wood and the anti-microbial action that stops the blooms of mold and mildew in humid environments. Thinned with turpentine, a little Tar goes a long way, and you can add shellac flakes to it to make a harder surface, what's sometimes referred to as "boat soup" by nautical enthusiasts. For tool handles, Stockholm Tar is hard to beat.
Oldies oil smells and protects better
I just finished a 60 x 84" hickory dining room extension pedestal table for my daughter and finished it with Rubio. I didn't think one small set of the finish (off hand I cannot remember the volume but it wasn't 1.3 L) would be enough so I bought two. This was the first time I used Rubio. One would have been plenty. Wow it really goes far. Also, It is so fast and easy to apply and looks and feels great. I burnished it with a white Scotch Brite pad as the final finishing touch and it looked great. I am building two low back Maloof inspired chairs out of cherry right now and am definately using Rubio. One reason is that before the final glue up and assembly I can pre-finish the components and if any final adjustments have to be made to the chair after assembly it will be super easy to just finish the unfinished wood without having to worry about having the finish be level. I have been using Maloof's finish (or a version of it) for my chairs and have been happy with the look and feel but 4-5 coats and the fact that the odor lingers for 2-3 months made me try Rubio. So much better.
For a daily-use dining table- do you need to reapply? If so, how often?
I have not had to refinish it yet.
Can Rubio be applied to a surface sanded down to 320?
Sure.
Only downside for fixing is with woods like cherry that darken over time. If you scrape too much you expose the pink fresh wood and it will stick out a long time. I like to use Howards Feed and Wax for maintenance oil.
I love BLO and Paste Wax. I've started using more mineral oil and paste wax or a Howard's Feed Wax. Rubio worked great on my table. It was expensive ouch, but worked great, but BLO and mineral oil with paste wax is cheap and still easy to fix. Rubio is definitely more resilient.
NO VOC's?? Do you also drink non-alcoholic beer and decaffeinated coffee?? ??
Lol 😅 Yes and yes.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo That's just cooky talk...
I have found Rubio Monocoat about 15 years ago, and I love it.
This year I switched from Rubio to Fiddes Hard Wax Oil, which applies the same, with a great natural color that doesn’t cast lighter wood towards piss yellow like Rubio.
I used monocoat on for the solid cherry countertop in our laundry room. It sees quite a bit of use, gets wet often, and still looks great. I love it. I'm using it on my table once I'm done.
It is really nice...but I can't bring myself to use it.
I genuinely can't say why, but I just like using the traditional finishes-it feels neat to do it the same way people have done it for hundreds of years.
So personally I usually go with tung oil followed by a wax polish, or a french polish instead if I'm feeling masochistic.
Way late to this video but fantastic insight to Rubio Monocoat. Also, awesome to find out that you are a board gamer! Ticket to Ride, Isle of cats, Seven Wonders, Mysterium, love it!
James. Please try a fix that may work for your stain in the wood table. I had my cat knock over a glass of water on my teak table. The water ran under a steel box we had on the table and it stained it deeply and was very black. I put on a thick damp coat of "Bar Keepers Best Friend" its a powder like ajax cleaner. I found it at the orange box store. I made a paste with water and the powder and left it over the stain overnight. It lightened the staining by 75% the first application. I applied it three times and it removed almost 95% of it. I then lightly scraped the table and re-finished it. We couldn't see the stain anymore! Worth a try!
BKF contains Oxalic acid, a.k.a. wood bleach. Works well on tannin stains.
Keep meaning to try Rubio. But seeing as I have 100 litres of BLO in stock I keep going yeah nah, next project😆 Guess it is time to take the plunge and give it a try....*EDIT* But then I saw the price. AUD 112 for 350 ML. Yeah nah, I don't care how good it is at that price🤣
Just cracked open a can of osmo for the first time and I loved it for the same reasons- easy to apply, low VOC, and a nice warm color and natural texture.
Thanks for the great review and video. Rubio Monocoat is new to me, and I really appreciate your detailed thoughts. Liked and subscribed!
I had my floors refinished recently and used Pallmann Magic Oil 2K. So far it seems to hold up better than the poly it replaced. Walking on the floor feels like soft velvet. As a bonus they left me the extra oil and hardener for future repairs.
I love your videos! I’ve been a woodworker for a long time and I learn a great deal from you. This finish looks amazing, and you’re right…it’s a little pricey. Prior to mixing the two parts together, what’s the shelf life? Thanks for this.
Rubio is my favorite also. Don’t forget precolor raises the grain so unless you knock that down a bit it’s not ok. I’ve got a habit of using black precolor, let it dry for 24 hours. Then use two parts black Rubio along with one part charcoal for a crystal effect on wood you are not trying to bring out the wood color itself.
Thanks for your vid’s!! How do you add a sheen to it?
There are a bunch of different top coats that you can add. But usually it means another two or three coats of something else. But if you want Sheen you might as well do something else like Polly
Any thoughts on a black walnut top I am aboutvto table.
it would look great.
I mostly clicked to see your beautiful shop wall, learned something tho 👍
We are just finishing 2000 plus metres of European oak as coving, skirting, picture rail etc. smoked oak finish was required and we could achieve this with the tinted product. Our experience:
- 240 grit finish is fine
- we don’t use the accelerator and it dries for handling in hours
- apply it with white scotch pad; leave 5 minutes (no need for longer) and wipe off excess
- expensive to buy but it goes so far - the cost in material per square metre is easily offset by less labour cost
Thank you. Cape Falcon Kayaks also recommends Rubio for kayak paddle finishing.
Can I put that over linseed oil? Or does the mono coat need to be on clean wood.
as long as the oil is fully cured. you might want to hit it with just a quick pass of 200 grit paper.
Thank you for your take. I’ve only just started using this product after years of Lacquer and many dead brain cells Or shellac.
For the potato stain, you might want to try a little oxalic acid. Watch out though, it "bleaches" wood (no chlorine), so might bleach the surrounding wood as well. I've used it to get nasty gray-black stone flour stains out of a table top.
(Don't use a tile saw on the dining table kids :D)
I have Osmo PolyX on order just to try it out (thanks Rocker 20% off coupon), but what I'm using on my current project is Tried & True Varnish Oil. We'll see how it goes... Normally I use T&T original or shellac. I've never had great luck with poly, and I do not miss leaving that behind along with my table saw.
Just picked up a 2" thick round slab of Monkey Pod that is going to be a coffee table, but have been debating what finish to use.......I've got my answer now. Always wanted to try Rubio's, so here's my chance.
That last comment sounded very much like Dad joke 🤣. Good content I have seen many references to Rubio so I might have to look into it. Thanks
Loved the informative video! Like you have been an oil and poly man for decades, and used my first rubio on a project last month. Love the finish and loved the ease, the cost...well something to get used to.
Made a few oak samples for a book case I'm going to make, so I ordered the smalle tester cans. First time I ever used it, but, boy it was very easy and it does look and smell very good!
This video cost me $60
I'm a HUGE fan of Rubio Monocoat. It's a big hit with my wife since I'm not leaving toxic fumes around our home and the stuff does smell great. Once the scent wears off I'm due for another project!
I will have to give that a try! Currently my go to finish is Howard's Butcher Block finish.
I'm going to try Rubio someday. Currently using Simple Finish. It does have some VOCs, but not to the same extent as oil based poly. And like its name, it's a simple to use finish.
Hard wax oils are not new they were not new fangled even 10-20 years ago Europeans have been using hard wax oils for hardwood floors for decades just kinda re-introduced here in the states for woodworking and furniture so they could sale them tiny quarts for extremely high prices as you can buy a 1 or 2 or 3 gallon kits for a couple hundred bucks yeah alot of money but literally thousands of times less than buying buy the quart
It does smell great! Great video. Thanks for sharing your process and experience. 👍
Good video, I want to try monocoat, but I look at my shelf of options that I already have and think, I will try it later. I am on a kick of mixing tung oil, orange oil, and different waxes (beeswax, paraffin, monocrystiline) just to see what works best. Though if I am using something for food, I usually just stick with mineral oil and beeswax. Or basically a paste wax solution. Though I have linseed oil on my shelf I rarely use it, mostly just an oversight.
I haven't used Rubio yet, but its on my list to try. Now... my next project will be finished with it.
I have irrational thoughts about wanting a film finish for additional protection. Might need to bite the bullet and try it out
I have been watching you for years at this point and I never noticed until now that you are a fellow woodworking boardgamer!
oh yes. lots of family fun there!
Tyvm from a random sparky who plays with tree carcasses on occasion
Perfect timing…thank you! I am just about done with a coffee table ( hackberry live edge slab) and have been pondering what finish to use. After making some BLO/beeswax per your vid, I was going to do several BLO applications and several coats of the homemade paste wax. Now I think I’ll do Rubio. The table top is from a tree that fell next to our cabin so having a coffee table inside that is from said tree should be great.
Great video! Super straightforward and informative
Ah James, I was hoping you were going to say no difference, lol. I’m sold. Hope you have a great new year
Way I see it is if I'm spending hundreds of dollars on lumber and loads of time working on something, spending extra on some high-quality finish is a no-brainer
It's awesome
I love my Rubio and now I'm looking forward to receiving Cam's (Blacktail Studio) Nano finish to see how much more it adds from a protection factor.
Thanks!
I love this stuff. I heard from I don’t remember who that you can rub off too little, but you can’t rub off too much, because of how it bonds to wood. Being that was originally created for hardwood floors, it was designed with extreme durability first and foremost, aka bulletproof on furniture. My brain says “it’s a chemical! It’s not supposed to smell this good! It has to be really bad!” My projects that I didn’t mix with hardener cured in about 3 days, vs 1 day with the hardener. As far as staining goes, Rubio has around 40 different tints that can be added when you’re mixing up a batch, you can also mix and match. So adding color, almost any color, to your project couldn’t be easier, and you won’t be stuck with a large volume of product that’s tinted some crazy color.
Hello from Finland! I also love simplicity especially about finishes. I hate painting, multiple coats and cleaning up the brushes etc. So far I've mainly used some oil finishes but now I dare to try Rubio Mono coat. Thanks for the explanation and justification for a handtool worker to use mono coat. Though I might find some Finnish finish as an alternative.
For deep stains like that from rotten potatoes, something that MIGHT work is ordinary laundry bleach. After removing the old finish, soak the area in bleach straight from the bottle, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, wash it off with lots of water, and let it dry. Whether this will work depends on the wood, if and how it's stained, and what made the stain. I've had good luck with things like magic marker ink that had soaked deep into unstained pine. Like the bottle always says, test on an inconspicuous area first.
I have used it over walnut veneer and over epoxy, both times with stunning results. I have 30 plus years of professional finishing experience and I think that I’m switching. Done deal.
Have always used either a wipe on poly or a spray (rattle can) lacquer. As well as yours, I’ve seen several videos on Rubio Monocoat, will definitely give it a try.
Great video, I will have to try out this finish! Would this work well for butcher block countertops or cutting boards? I wanted to know more about the "food safety" aspects of this finish. Thanks!
I actually used it on my maple countertop.
I have white oak stair treads and rails. I want to match the white oak
Flooring that is pre finished with what appears to be a multi step color stain in the light to warm tone. The floor appears to have a grey wash then a warm stain then a white wipe on wipe off. So the depth is grey in the grain… natural to warm stain on the majority of the wood and finally just an hint of white in the pours on some pieces.
I can figure out how to accomplish the same for my raw stairs.