Straight to the point. You are an excellent teacher. When I saw this was a 16 min video I initially cringed thinking 12 minutes would be anecdotal stories and 4 minutes of useful intel. But this was time well spent and it seems others below have also noted your strength in this. So I wanted to compliment you and say Thank You!😁
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
So - leaving a comment 4 years after the post was made😂 Great video, great tutorial, great information! Been a carpenter and builder for 3o odd years. A co-worker recently recommended Rubio '2c' for a 'coffe river table' finish, topping of with their finishing oil. So, visited a demonstration in Malmö (southern Sweden). While being well informed there by a great salesman, your input is as great as it comes! Having used a lot of different products over the years (incl 'danish oil'), I am totally convinced of Rubio being a superior product. Thanks, a great video. Merry Christmas 2023 😊❤
I love your videos, however, the sound seems far lower volume from most others. I have full volume and still a bit difficult if there is any background noise at all. Keep up your good work and videos.
Just tested my first batch of the Rubio and I’m way more pumped on the color saturation and feel than I was expecting. Going to let it cure for a week and see bit I think this will be a great finish for our mid century kitchen cabinet rehab. Thanks for the clear instructions. Straight to the point.
I always thought the squeegee was the only way. Nice to learn a better way. Can you post a link to the buffing block and handle, please? I'm having hard time finding them. Thanks!
I finally found Rubio after years of messing around with various finishes for the walnut dining table I built (Tung oil, carnuba wax, Emmett's good Stuff.) I was never happy with the finish and drink rings are (were) my nemesis. This stuff is spectacular. If only I'd known about it 20 years ago. Made my table look like new and I'm about to refinish my mom's oak dining table (with my new Festool sander!) and will definitely be using this on it. Thanks for the refresher!
I only had 320 grit to use on a sofa/end tables I just finished; I thought I'd give it a go and see how the finish turned out, and it was still great. Rubio is such a good product, I think it's hard to screw up!
great video on the Rubio. I used it on a large lazy susan and i hated it. It seemed really dull and patchy so i'm gonna have to try a second coat from now on. I also didn't use the applicator pad, i just used a rag and rubbed it in well. It is very hard to get a good video showing a proper process and you nailed it. Cheers and thanks for the video!!
Thanks tons Bent, I just made a 40”x16” round coffee table outta 8/4 Ash and am getting ready to apply the Rubio Monocoat Oil+2C cotton WHite and this really does help as I usually use oil finishes but have never used the Rubio, Thanks, this helps a lot
Wonderful explanation of the steps. Building a live edge white oak kitchen table, using Rubio oil plus, 2c. What are your thoughts in using the Rubio Universal Maintenance material for the final coat?
I am looking that the Ceruse products from Rubio and that search returned me to your Video nice demo of the Oil Plus 2C which according to the walk thru on the Rubio Monocoat website is one of the steps for Ceruse of Oak and several other hardwoods.
Jason, thanks for the info. I've seen it used before but never really understood much about it. I'll keep this video in mind when I'm ready to use the product in the future.
I am making a dinning room set for my son in white oak and he wants the oak to to have little color change and to be as light in color as possible would rubio work and which one? Great presentation and I am a new subscriber.
Great videos especially about the Rubio Monocoat application. Just about to do my first Monocoat 2C Plus Pure finish on a walnut bath caddy/tray with Ecopoxy FlowCast SPR. Quick newbie question…I have the white 3M pad as well as the maroon 3M pad. Is the 3M white pad similar (but thinner) to the white application pad that you used to apply the Rubio? And is the 3M maroon pad similar to the one that you used. Thank you again for your excellent videos…I’m continuing to learn every day
@@bentswoodworking My nephew wanted me to finish his new oak table slab. I told him to drop it off with whatever finish he preferred. He brought Rubio. Looks easier than Poly now.
Im just now myself learning about the Rubio system and cant wait to try it. Thanks for all the helpful application and other useful tips. One Question is the small table top I am going to be working on has a large crack that I plan on doing a Resin pour on. Should I do that first before I apply the Rubio to the rest of the table?
Thank you so much, really great helpful video for using this product on smaller items. Planning on getting a butcher block desktop and I think this is the finish I will go with for it. Thanks again!
How'd it go for you? I'm working on a butcher block right now desktop right now. Apprehensive about a second coat but feel like I may not have let the first coat bond for long enough, or wiped too much off. Nervous about getting the details for the second coat perfect 😶🌫️
Thanks for these great Rubio videos (and your many others.) Just finished with Rubio for the first time on a pretty spectacular walnut free edge bookmatched dining table, and before each and every step of the finishing process I reviewed the applicable segment of your video as tutorial. I got a beautiful natural result and no doubt avoided a number of newbie errors that could have turned my project into a frantic nightmare. Felt like you were right there giving me instructions mano a mano. Thank you!
@@garrettjones1699 Spectacular transformation! IMO, 2 coats definitely called for, but result is fantastic if you simply follow the steps here. My client was wild about the finished piece. You can see pics in my IG feed (@michaelschuler.carpentry.tools) including this one at client's home: instagram.com/p/CSB3co1Lq8M/?
@@garrettjones1699 Thanks! The build was a blast from the past for me. I hadn't done any client furniture making for decades. My market supports my finish carpentry and door hanging specialities much better, but transforming slabs straight from the boule into something useful and beautiful once in a while is good for the Soul...
Thanks for such nice detailed instruction, very useful for first users like myself. A question remained: the cans say you should stir before use. You stir after mixing the 2 components, but I don't see you stir the original can content. Would you recommend to stir each component first, before using the syringe to extract?
This is the best 15 or so minutes I've spent on YT in a while! Thanks for the well organized and clearly presented information. You've already answered so many of my questions! I am planning to use RM to seal my walnut island top, which is not yet installed. Quick question- if I apply to the bottom of my island first, do I need to wait any length of time before I can flip it over and apply to the top and sides? Thanks in advance :)
Nope! I would do the bottom, wipe it down, then flip it and do the top. Only thing I would do is put it on some painters triangles for about 24 hours so the underside dries. 👍
Thanks for the video very informative..., I’ve been a little hesitant to use this product but seeing this video , I’m sure I can apply on my next project. Thanks again!
I've used your methods on a few projects and it worked great! On my latest project I tried your sand to 150 then water pop method and it did not work out as well as just sanding to 120, water popping and hitting it again lightly with 120. When I water popped my walnut boards, it did not raise the grain evenly, especially near knots and I can feel this on the final product. I'm sure this is one of those "only I will ever tell things" but I can feel the texture inconsistencies when rubbing my hands over the top. I have not seen this when sanding to 120 though.
A quick added note… A Rubio rep was at my local Woodcraft last week demonstrating the Monocoat product line. He used a non-abrasive pad to apply the product, but also mentioned that you could use a maroon Scotch-Brite pad as an applicator to knock the grain down while spreading the product - sort of like wet sanding. Just thought I'd throw it out there in case it's helpful.
Thanks for spreading the information. What if you need to cover two sides of the detail? How long do you wait for the 1st side to dry before flipping the detail?
Awesome video thanks. Came here via Rubio as I have been looking for a product to finish drum shells. Really taken by your knowledge and teaching style. Have been watching your videos for the last hour lol. Thanks very much
Great video and very in-depth. I was looking for something for a cherry coffee table that I’m building and I think this might be just the ticket! Thanks again and keep up the good work!
When applying the second coat, could I use 120 grit sandpape(lightly pressed) instead of the maroon pad. My local hardware stores do not supply the circular pad that you use.
Thanks for the video, it explained everything leaving no doubts, when I leave the table to dry for 5-7 minutes, when I try to remove the excess it is so hard/sticky I really have to put pressure, and it leaves marks from my piece of cloth
Great video, best one I have seen before!, The only 2 questions I have which I have not seen - Ill ask particular to my piece - I just built a one drawer night stand. 1) how long will it dry fully before I bring it to the bedroom, 2) Would you absolutely recommend I use the oil 2 C with the monocoat, I am hearing that the 2C oil is only necessary for high traffic areas and I may be ok with just the monocoat. Many thanks
@@bentswoodworking Many thanks for the quick reply Ill use the 2c and be safe. How would you recommend I stain the 4 sides of the nightstand box - stain 1 side (facing up) than flip to another side than keep flipping. Last I don't have access to the rubio cleaner and I wanted to stain today if there an alternative, can I use damp cloth or mineral spirits.
Great help! Getting ready to do a live edge slab and wonder about oractical approach to getting both sides coated? Top first then bottom? Dry time in between? Etc? Thx
Jason, thanks for this review. If you're ever up to making another video on hard wax oil, I'd love to see your thoughts on Fiddes Hard Wax oil. It's about half the price of Rubio and seems to be a promising alternative to Rubio.
Great video! I was searching for someone who applied a second coat on wood that absorbs more of the oil (in my case redwood). Thanks for covering that aspect, I'll try it out!
Your RM video was helpful. My question is this: I have hard maple kitchen counter tops; what I need is a finish resistant to water and a gloss top coat. If RM isn’t best what is?
Great video, thank you! 1. What sanding grit should I use for a desk table top made from baltic birch plywood? It's already sanded at the factory but I don't know to what grit they sanded it. 2. I understand that water popping a 150-grit-sanded-wood opens the pores to have a better molecular bond and hence make the surface more durable, but could you please explain what happens to the smoothness of the wood after water popping? Will you get as smooth a result after applying the Rubio as without water popping? In other words, are durability and smoothness opposite tradeoffs, or is the surface both durable and smooth?
I am very intrigued by this finish I am a lacquer finisher from way back, but this seems way easier and quicker. My question is when you're all said and done. How does this finish? Look compared to a lacquer finish. Both being a matte finish. thank you Mark
Question: the oil/wax liquid. Do you shake well before use? I cant read my can even with a magnifying glass. Getting old is tough on my eyes. Appreciated.
Best video I have found to date! I have two questions...if you don't mind...How many square feet does the 350ml cover? And if I choose to do a second coat, do I need to use the accelerator with it? Thanks again for the great video...cannot wait to get this stuff and start on my butcher block...!
Hey Bent cool video! Can I also use this finish for a desk or table top? Im really starting to get tired of using armrseal. It just takes too long. Thx!
Great video, we have been using Rubio for close to 8 years, great product! You may have met Justin down in Texas? We do break the "rules" (-: We send to 220 on virtually any table when using rubio, we also have never used the "wood cleaner" instead use an air gun for a few minutes. I just can't leave wood sanded to only 120-150 grit there is so much more potential when at least going to 220. In fact I have done many tables sanded to 400 grit then finished with Rubio and never had one customer come back to me with negative feedback / issues.
I did and it was a great time!!! Good to know about the sanding. I know many people have and do. It’s also reassuring from someone who has been using it successfully for so long. 👍👊🏼
Of course I am late to the party but I am just seeing this after I just went up through 100 - 150 - 220 - 320 to 400 grit on an epoxy desk top with beautiful English Walnut - seeing your comment I think I am just going to roll the dice ;-) Seems crazy to go backwards . . .
Thank you Jason, i will certainly follow your recomendations. Soon i am going to apply this product on 2.5 meter wood table. I just have a few question: if i should rub down the entire surface manually or use a machine? Should i do it in one go or partially since it is relatively big piece?
You can absolutely use a machine. I know lots of guys that get the pads for the rotex and put it on with that. It will be much faster. I would say do it in sections so it doesn’t sit long before wiping off the excess. It will blend perfectly
Very cool thanks for the tips and tricks. I am going to be using Rubio for the first time in on my benchtop bench, so thanks. So I assume on the table you would do the finish on the sides and bottom as well. Do you do them all the same time or do one surface at a time and then let it sit for 24 hours before you moved on to say the sides or bottom? Also how do you think the pure color looks on the walnut compared to the color they have for example on there website?
@@bentswoodworking so you don't have to let it sit then for 24 hours before moving on. Good to know. I figured you would need to have it do so before having it rest on something beforehand. Appreciate it.
Quick question: How much Rubio should I mix to cover all 6 sides of my Live Edge desk ? It measures 27 inches deep by 60 inches long by 2.5 inches thick. I have been using epoxy & its a lot of work. Excellent video and thank you for guiding us on your process. I have placed my Rubio order & excited to see the results. I
Less than you think. You can always mix more later and touch things up. It won’t show lines from the different applications. It is a bonding process to the wood fibres, not a layering process like polyurethane.
I have had good results. Don’t really have anything in direct sunlight. I have had normal glass with no long term effects, never placed anything hot directly on it.
Thank you for the video, really good demonstration and interesting, this is not a troll . On the first application the Rubio didn't absorb once applied due to the molecular structure. Serious Question 😃 why / how did it absorb the second coat ? Nevertheless I will be using this method soon . Many thanks Dai
No, it did absorb more into those areas. It still absorbs into the wood. It just bonds with the fibers. Certain areas it will absorb more especially on walnut
Great informative video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just have a simple question. Is it necessary to use a polish buffer for this application?
I heard you say you built a dining table I think. Have you used the Rubio Maintenance Coat? I believe it adds a bit of a sheen to the top but has to be reapplied every 3 to 6 months.
Hi, thanks for the video, Where do yo buy those rectangular pads. I have a round version that sticks to the end of a drill chuck. But not sure I like that method. I also use a festool felt pad that attaches to my orbital sander but sometimes the hairs from the felt get stuck in the wood. Super annoying!
If you want more shine and less flate looking areas, use Howards UV furniture oil over the rubio. 2 coats of rubio didnt do the trick, but howards did. It looks real shiney at first but cures more satin, but shinier than rubio.
We are going to build an island countertop and are thinking of using walnut. The countertop will be approx. 110" X 54". Do you recommend using this on an island that will get heavy use and what about setting hot items on it? How much of the Rubio do you think we will need for that size?
Jason, I love your videos. Can you tell us about the measuring tool storage zone on the wall around 12m 20sec in this video and which measuring tools you find the most convenient to use?
I believe you are talking about the woodpeckers tools. I have a use for all of them at times. My Paolini ruler is the most used. Then the T rulers probably. Then the squares are used frequently
Thanks Jason. That helps. That storage board/shelf/container is great looking as well. Maybe I'll try my hand at copying it sometime. Happy Thanksgiving!
Great video! I have a few questions: 1. What advantage is there to sanding to 150 and water popping vs just sanding to 120? 2. So you don't sand after water popping? In most other videos (not necessarily about rubio) people usually do.
Now I just sand to 120 and apply. The purpose of raising the grain is to open the pores. This isn’t needed at 120. I have actually applied at 150 without it and had the same results.
@@bentswoodworking I “water popped” and cleaned the surface with mineral spirits then applied. I can still feel the “little fuzzies” from the water popping after the Rubio has dried. Any way of getting rid of that or way to avoid in the future? Thanks!
Great Information. I have a question. I am going to try this on some original doors in my house. I have taken the many layers of paint and varnish off with sanding. The only problem I am having is the small trim around the inside panel. If I do not get this off will it affect the process on the panel and the sides of the door?
I see that you do not recommend lighting sanding after water popping. The Wood Whisperer's video on Rubio Monocoat application adds in this additional step (light sanding at the same grit which was "water popped") after water popping. I fail to see how sanding _after_ water popping for Rubio is a good idea, since you'd be closing those pores that you just "popped" open, again but, I trust the wood whisperer's advice, usually. Do you have any insight into this discrepancy? Have you ever lightly sanded after water popping? Thank you for making these videos.
The point of water popping is because you need to open the pores up to allow better bonding when sanding to grits higher that the 120 which Rubio recommends. If you sand lightly after water popping, then it may give you less bonding abilities. Now, will all that being said, water popping isn’t a necessity from my experience. Also, I know plenty of people that sand to higher grits and still use it without issues. Just test it out on a small piece before starting your project and do what you find works best for you.
Hi Ben, thank you for sharing your tips on using Rubio Monocoat oil Plus. Will this method give a similar finish to White Oak Veneer surfaces? Have you tried their 'Smoke - Rubio Monocoat' ? If so, could you upload a video demonstration of Smoke on white oak please? Thank you.
Thanks for the helpful video. I haven't used Rubio before but I'm working on a table that I plan to try it on for the top. Question- would the process be similar for the table legs? I'm making cabriole legs and would like to use it for the entire piece. Thanks in advance for the answer!
Rubio says you MUST remove ALL excess oil. Depending on the size of the piece...using a buffer just makes sure it's all gone by making that process easier...
Amazing video. Thanks for the great information. After wiping the excess finish, are you able to throw the terry clothes in the washing machine and reuse? Or does the waxy substance ruin it?
Jason, great video. I have a couple questions. Do you not sand after water popping? I tried this last night and the surface feels pretty rough. Wouldn't a non water popped, sanded to 120 be smoother? Also, how long does it take for the slight oily feel take to go away?
I water popped because I went to 150. You don’t necessarily need to at 120 cause the grain is still open and the fibers can bond with the material. Keep in mind that I applied with the pad so when buffing it in, it smooths the surface knocking down any material. Also, it feels rough because we are all use to sanding to a higher grit. As for the oily feel, after wiping Off the excess well, I let it sit for 24 hours. 👍
I just subscribed after watching a lot of your content.. Let me ask this, cutting boards or serving trays require BOTH sides to be finished (as do most things) must you do one side and wait 24 hours, flip and do other side or is it safe to do one side and chock that side with pyramids and do other side at same time?
Hi, I've some live edge counters that I want to treat. Am I correct in saying there was no buffing machine needed,, just towel and elbow grease to finish off?
Hi there! Great video, do you know what the name of the white applicator pad is called? Can I buy at home depot? I already have the 2C rubio mono, but just need the white pad (don't want to use plastic spreader). Thanks!
Straight to the point. You are an excellent teacher. When I saw this was a 16 min video I initially cringed thinking 12 minutes would be anecdotal stories and 4 minutes of useful intel. But this was time well spent and it seems others below have also noted your strength in this. So I wanted to compliment you and say Thank You!😁
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
So - leaving a comment 4 years after the post was made😂
Great video, great tutorial, great information!
Been a carpenter and builder for 3o odd years. A co-worker recently recommended Rubio '2c' for a 'coffe river table' finish, topping of with their finishing oil.
So, visited a demonstration in Malmö (southern Sweden).
While being well informed there by a great salesman, your input is as great as it comes!
Having used a lot of different products over the years (incl 'danish oil'), I am totally convinced of Rubio being a superior product.
Thanks, a great video.
Merry Christmas 2023 😊❤
Man what a difference in your videos now vs 6 months ago. Bravo. Bravo.
Lol yeah hopefully in 6 more months they will be even better
I love your videos, however, the sound seems far lower volume from most others. I have full volume and still a bit difficult if there is any background noise at all. Keep up your good work and videos.
Just tested my first batch of the Rubio and I’m way more pumped on the color saturation and feel than I was expecting. Going to let it cure for a week and see bit I think this will be a great finish for our mid century kitchen cabinet rehab. Thanks for the clear instructions. Straight to the point.
The simplicity of this process is boggling my mind. And As always you explain it like a pro. Thanks JB
Thanks!
I always thought the squeegee was the only way. Nice to learn a better way.
Can you post a link to the buffing block and handle, please? I'm having hard time finding them. Thanks!
I finally found Rubio after years of messing around with various finishes for the walnut dining table I built (Tung oil, carnuba wax, Emmett's good Stuff.) I was never happy with the finish and drink rings are (were) my nemesis. This stuff is spectacular. If only I'd known about it 20 years ago. Made my table look like new and I'm about to refinish my mom's oak dining table (with my new Festool sander!) and will definitely be using this on it. Thanks for the refresher!
Excellent video. I'm about to apply some Rubio to an antique kitchen table restored, and your video explains everything very clearly. Thanks so much!
Very useful ahead of my first monocoat job - many thanks
I only had 320 grit to use on a sofa/end tables I just finished; I thought I'd give it a go and see how the finish turned out, and it was still great. Rubio is such a good product, I think it's hard to screw up!
I have sanded over 120 plenty and never had any issues myself
Thanks, you, explained everything clear . I really like that look of the finished wood .
Glad you found it helpful
Thank you!! I should’ve known I’d find my Rubio questions answered on your channel. I continue to learn so much from your channel. 👍🏼👍🏼
great video on the Rubio. I used it on a large lazy susan and i hated it. It seemed really dull and patchy so i'm gonna have to try a second coat from now on. I also didn't use the applicator pad, i just used a rag and rubbed it in well. It is very hard to get a good video showing a proper process and you nailed it.
Cheers and thanks for the video!!
Glad you found it helpful!!
This video is better the Rubios video. Thank you for this. And I'll definitely be subscribing to the channel!
Glad you found it helpful
Excellent video and advice...doing a curved island unit oak worktop with Rubio 2c ,. Can't wait to get stuck in..
Thanks again.
You’re welcome
Best tutorial I’ve seen. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks tons Bent, I just made a 40”x16” round coffee table outta 8/4 Ash and am getting ready to apply the Rubio Monocoat Oil+2C cotton WHite and this really does help as I usually use oil finishes but have never used the Rubio, Thanks, this helps a lot
Glad to hear you found it helpful 👍
Great video. Simple and straight to the point; no bs. Well done!!!
Glad you found it helpful
Wonderful explanation of the steps. Building a live edge white oak kitchen table, using Rubio oil plus, 2c.
What are your thoughts in using the Rubio Universal Maintenance material for the final coat?
Thanks for the video and the way you explain. Very detailed and straight to the point. Good work!
Thank you for all the information, have yet to try Rubio monocoat with all the reviews and your video is a perfect tutorial.
Glad you found it helpful!!
I am looking that the Ceruse products from Rubio and that search returned me to your Video nice demo of the Oil Plus 2C which according to the walk thru on the Rubio Monocoat website is one of the steps for Ceruse of Oak and several other hardwoods.
Jason, thanks for the info. I've seen it used before but never really understood much about it. I'll keep this video in mind when I'm ready to use the product in the future.
Excellent!
Best video on the subject I’ve found. Helped so much for my project. Subscribed!!
Glad you found it helpful!
I am making a dinning room set for my son in white oak and he wants the oak to to have little color change and to be as light in color as possible would rubio work and which one? Great presentation and I am a new subscriber.
Great videos especially about the Rubio Monocoat application. Just about to do my first Monocoat 2C Plus Pure finish on a walnut bath caddy/tray with Ecopoxy FlowCast SPR. Quick newbie question…I have the white 3M pad as well as the maroon 3M pad. Is the 3M white pad similar (but thinner) to the white application pad that you used to apply the Rubio? And is the 3M maroon pad similar to the one that you used. Thank you again for your excellent videos…I’m continuing to learn every day
Yes many companies sell the pads. They actually makes them for sanders as well
Great video. Now I'm ready to try Rubio for my first time.
Good luck 👍
@@bentswoodworking My nephew wanted me to finish his new oak table slab. I told him to drop it off with whatever finish he preferred. He brought Rubio. Looks easier than Poly now.
Im just now myself learning about the Rubio system and cant wait to try it. Thanks for all the helpful application and other useful tips. One Question is the small table top I am going to be working on has a large crack that I plan on doing a Resin pour on. Should I do that first before I apply the Rubio to the rest of the table?
I would fill the holes first, yes
Thank you so much, really great helpful video for using this product on smaller items. Planning on getting a butcher block desktop and I think this is the finish I will go with for it. Thanks again!
How'd it go for you? I'm working on a butcher block right now desktop right now. Apprehensive about a second coat but feel like I may not have let the first coat bond for long enough, or wiped too much off. Nervous about getting the details for the second coat perfect 😶🌫️
Glad it was helpful!
@@user-bh8ys8ii4i I've ordered the desktop, it should be here by Friday!
Awesome video man! I think I'll try this application next time.
Do it!
Thanks for these great Rubio videos (and your many others.) Just finished with Rubio for the first time on a pretty spectacular walnut free edge bookmatched dining table, and before each and every step of the finishing process I reviewed the applicable segment of your video as tutorial. I got a beautiful natural result and no doubt avoided a number of newbie errors that could have turned my project into a frantic nightmare. Felt like you were right there giving me instructions mano a mano. Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful!
Did you find that it made the grain really pop out!?
@@garrettjones1699 Spectacular transformation! IMO, 2 coats definitely called for, but result is fantastic if you simply follow the steps here. My client was wild about the finished piece. You can see pics in my IG feed (@michaelschuler.carpentry.tools) including this one at client's home: instagram.com/p/CSB3co1Lq8M/?
@@michael.schuler Looks fantastic! I bet it looks even better in person great job!
@@garrettjones1699 Thanks! The build was a blast from the past for me. I hadn't done any client furniture making for decades. My market supports my finish carpentry and door hanging specialities much better, but transforming slabs straight from the boule into something useful and beautiful once in a while is good for the Soul...
Excellent info, I just got my first commission using this product. Thank you!
You’re welcome
Thanks Jason! Your videos are always informative. I also love the way you present your content. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!!
Thanks for such nice detailed instruction, very useful for first users like myself. A question remained: the cans say you should stir before use. You stir after mixing the 2 components, but I don't see you stir the original can content. Would you recommend to stir each component first, before using the syringe to extract?
I do stir up the oil yes.
This is the best 15 or so minutes I've spent on YT in a while! Thanks for the well organized and clearly presented information. You've already answered so many of my questions! I am planning to use RM to seal my walnut island top, which is not yet installed. Quick question- if I apply to the bottom of my island first, do I need to wait any length of time before I can flip it over and apply to the top and sides? Thanks in advance :)
Nope! I would do the bottom, wipe it down, then flip it and do the top. Only thing I would do is put it on some painters triangles for about 24 hours so the underside dries. 👍
@@bentswoodworking Awesome! That's just what I'll do. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the video very informative..., I’ve been a little hesitant to use this product but seeing this video , I’m sure I can apply on my next project.
Thanks again!
You’re welcome !
I've used your methods on a few projects and it worked great! On my latest project I tried your sand to 150 then water pop method and it did not work out as well as just sanding to 120, water popping and hitting it again lightly with 120. When I water popped my walnut boards, it did not raise the grain evenly, especially near knots and I can feel this on the final product. I'm sure this is one of those "only I will ever tell things" but I can feel the texture inconsistencies when rubbing my hands over the top. I have not seen this when sanding to 120 though.
Newbie here. Trying to use rubios monocoat 2c to pop the grain on a sepele chest. Testing on on a spot now.
I used this on a pair of speaker cabinets last spring. I liked it but I just tried Osmo 2K on another pair and I prefer the Osmo.
A quick added note… A Rubio rep was at my local Woodcraft last week demonstrating the Monocoat product line. He used a non-abrasive pad to apply the product, but also mentioned that you could use a maroon Scotch-Brite pad as an applicator to knock the grain down while spreading the product - sort of like wet sanding.
Just thought I'd throw it out there in case it's helpful.
Thanks!! 👍
Is woodcraft going to carry the Rubio line of products? Haven't seen these in any woodworking store or home center.
@@troymeredith521 - The Woodcraft store in St. Louis carries the Rubio products. I suppose any Woodcraft can get them.
Good luck!
Thanks for spreading the information. What if you need to cover two sides of the detail? How long do you wait for the 1st side to dry before flipping the detail?
Awesome video thanks. Came here via Rubio as I have been looking for a product to finish drum shells. Really taken by your knowledge and teaching style. Have been watching your videos for the last hour lol. Thanks very much
Thank you so much! Glad you are finding the video’s helpful!!
Great video - I'm going to try Rubio on my next project. This was super informative and gives me the confidence to go for it. Thanks!
Awesome!!
Great video and very in-depth. I was looking for something for a cherry coffee table that I’m building and I think this might be just the ticket! Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Glad you found it helpful
When applying the second coat, could I use 120 grit sandpape(lightly pressed) instead of the maroon pad. My local hardware stores do not supply the circular pad that you use.
I couldn’t say yes or no. I personally think it may be fine with light pressure
Thanks for the video, it explained everything leaving no doubts, when I leave the table to dry for 5-7 minutes, when I try to remove the excess it is so hard/sticky I really have to put pressure, and it leaves marks from my piece of cloth
Try breaking it up into smaller sections. You only want it to sit for a short time.
Couple of questions plz :
1) what are the impacts of not using an accelerator
2) is rubio monocoat good for maple wood slab ?
Jason best rubiomonocoat video on RUclips. Very thorough! And I don’t think you talked a lot haha
Oh I always talk a lot. 🤣🤣 But thank you 👊🏼👊🏼
We are using the Maintenance Oil 36 hours later to get a higher sheen, but only doing the 1st coat with Rubiomono Coat C Pure.
Interesting
Great video, best one I have seen before!, The only 2 questions I have which I have not seen - Ill ask particular to my piece - I just built a one drawer night stand. 1) how long will it dry fully before I bring it to the bedroom, 2) Would you absolutely recommend I use the oil 2 C with the monocoat, I am hearing that the 2C oil is only necessary for high traffic areas and I may be ok with just the monocoat. Many thanks
I let it sit for 24 hours, then avoid heavy use for about 4 more days. I always use the two part mix.
@@bentswoodworking
Many thanks for the quick reply Ill use the 2c and be safe. How would you recommend I stain the 4 sides of the nightstand box - stain 1 side (facing up) than flip to another side than keep flipping. Last I don't have access to the rubio cleaner and I wanted to stain today if there an alternative, can I use damp cloth or mineral spirits.
Great help! Getting ready to do a live edge slab and wonder about oractical approach to getting both sides coated? Top first then bottom? Dry time in between? Etc? Thx
I always start on the bottom. I let sit for 24 hours prior to doing the top.
@@bentswoodworking if you want to do two coats, would you do them both on the bottom and then flip over, or go back and forth? Thanks!
Jason, thanks for this review. If you're ever up to making another video on hard wax oil, I'd love to see your thoughts on Fiddes Hard Wax oil. It's about half the price of Rubio and seems to be a promising alternative to Rubio.
I haven’t heard of that before. I’ll have to check it out
Excellent instruction! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! I was searching for someone who applied a second coat on wood that absorbs more of the oil (in my case redwood). Thanks for covering that aspect, I'll try it out!
Glad you found it helpful
Always a great video! I am a believer now in this product brother!
Your RM video was helpful. My question is this: I have hard maple kitchen counter tops; what I need is a finish resistant to water and a gloss top coat. If RM isn’t best what is?
Take a look at waterlox
Great video, thank you!
1. What sanding grit should I use for a desk table top made from baltic birch plywood? It's already sanded at the factory but I don't know to what grit they sanded it.
2. I understand that water popping a 150-grit-sanded-wood opens the pores to have a better molecular bond and hence make the surface more durable, but could you please explain what happens to the smoothness of the wood after water popping? Will you get as smooth a result after applying the Rubio as without water popping? In other words, are durability and smoothness opposite tradeoffs, or is the surface both durable and smooth?
I am very intrigued by this finish I am a lacquer finisher from way back, but this seems way easier and quicker. My question is when you're all said and done. How does this finish? Look compared to a lacquer finish. Both being a matte finish. thank you Mark
Question: the oil/wax liquid. Do you shake well before use?
I cant read my can even with a magnifying glass. Getting old is tough on my eyes. Appreciated.
Best video I have found to date! I have two questions...if you don't mind...How many square feet does the 350ml cover? And if I choose to do a second coat, do I need to use the accelerator with it? Thanks again for the great video...cannot wait to get this stuff and start on my butcher block...!
I don’t know the exact square footage but a little goes a long way. And yes I would always use the accelerator either way
Thanks for this, im making my table today very useful video !!! XD
Awesome!!
Hey Bent cool video! Can I also use this finish for a desk or table top? Im really starting to get tired of using armrseal. It just takes too long. Thx!
Thank you very much for this video. Really helped. Appreciate it.
You’re welcome
Fantastic demonstration! Thank you for posting this.
You’re welcome
Thank you for the video, very informative. One quick question, can I use a dye before applying the monocoat. thanks,
Great video, we have been using Rubio for close to 8 years, great product! You may have met Justin down in Texas? We do break the "rules" (-: We send to 220 on virtually any table when using rubio, we also have never used the "wood cleaner" instead use an air gun for a few minutes. I just can't leave wood sanded to only 120-150 grit there is so much more potential when at least going to 220. In fact I have done many tables sanded to 400 grit then finished with Rubio and never had one customer come back to me with negative feedback / issues.
I did and it was a great time!!! Good to know about the sanding. I know many people have and do. It’s also reassuring from someone who has been using it successfully for so long. 👍👊🏼
Of course I am late to the party but I am just seeing this after I just went up through 100 - 150 - 220 - 320 to 400 grit on an epoxy desk top with beautiful English Walnut - seeing your comment I think I am just going to roll the dice ;-) Seems crazy to go backwards . . .
Do you water pop at any of the grits when going to 220? I agree - best to go to at least 220...
When using Rubio mono coat how long do you have to wait till you can use the table? Liked your viedo
I moved it inside and started using 24 hours after I was done with application
Thank you Jason, i will certainly follow your recomendations. Soon i am going to apply this product on 2.5 meter wood table. I just have a few question: if i should rub down the entire surface manually or use a machine? Should i do it in one go or partially since it is relatively big piece?
You can absolutely use a machine. I know lots of guys that get the pads for the rotex and put it on with that. It will be much faster. I would say do it in sections so it doesn’t sit long before wiping off the excess. It will blend perfectly
Great video! Thank you for all the tips.
Glad you found it helpful
Very cool thanks for the tips and tricks. I am going to be using Rubio for the first time in on my benchtop bench, so thanks. So I assume on the table you would do the finish on the sides and bottom as well. Do you do them all the same time or do one surface at a time and then let it sit for 24 hours before you moved on to say the sides or bottom? Also how do you think the pure color looks on the walnut compared to the color they have for example on there website?
I do the bottom first then I flip it and do everything else. I do it all at once.
@@bentswoodworking so you don't have to let it sit then for 24 hours before moving on. Good to know. I figured you would need to have it do so before having it rest on something beforehand. Appreciate it.
Quick question: How much Rubio should I mix to cover all 6 sides of my Live Edge desk ? It measures 27 inches deep by 60 inches long by 2.5 inches thick. I have been using epoxy & its a lot of work. Excellent video and thank you for guiding us on your process. I have placed my Rubio order & excited to see the results. I
Less than you think. You can always mix more later and touch things up. It won’t show lines from the different applications. It is a bonding process to the wood fibres, not a layering process like polyurethane.
Jason How does this product hold up to sunlight and hot and cold cups. glasses, plates etc. Thanks Paul
I have had good results. Don’t really have anything in direct sunlight. I have had normal glass with no long term effects, never placed anything hot directly on it.
Thank you for the video, really good demonstration and interesting, this is not a troll . On the first application the Rubio didn't absorb once applied due to the molecular structure.
Serious Question 😃 why / how did it absorb the second coat ?
Nevertheless I will be using this method soon .
Many thanks
Dai
No, it did absorb more into those areas. It still absorbs into the wood. It just bonds with the fibers. Certain areas it will absorb more especially on walnut
@@bentswoodworking thank you for your time, I will be looking to try it with walnut soon .
Thank you for the excellent video .
Dai
Great informative video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just have a simple question. Is it necessary to use a polish buffer for this application?
I heard you say you built a dining table I think. Have you used the Rubio Maintenance Coat? I believe it adds a bit of a sheen to the top but has to be reapplied every 3 to 6 months.
I haven’t used it myself
Hi, thanks for the video, Where do yo buy those rectangular pads. I have a round version that sticks to the end of a drill chuck. But not sure I like that method. I also use a festool felt pad that attaches to my orbital sander but sometimes the hairs from the felt get stuck in the wood. Super annoying!
From rubios website
If you want more shine and less flate looking areas, use Howards UV furniture oil over the rubio. 2 coats of rubio didnt do the trick, but howards did. It looks real shiney at first but cures more satin, but shinier than rubio.
We are going to build an island countertop and are thinking of using walnut. The countertop will be approx. 110" X 54". Do you recommend using this on an island that will get heavy use and what about setting hot items on it? How much of the Rubio do you think we will need for that size?
I think it would be ok and is easy to repair when it gets damaged. May be better options out there for that application though.
Jason, I love your videos. Can you tell us about the measuring tool storage zone on the wall around 12m 20sec in this video and which measuring tools you find the most convenient to use?
I believe you are talking about the woodpeckers tools. I have a use for all of them at times. My Paolini ruler is the most used. Then the T rulers probably. Then the squares are used frequently
Thanks Jason. That helps. That storage board/shelf/container is great looking as well. Maybe I'll try my hand at copying it sometime. Happy Thanksgiving!
Great video! I have a few questions:
1. What advantage is there to sanding to 150 and water popping vs just sanding to 120?
2. So you don't sand after water popping? In most other videos (not necessarily about rubio) people usually do.
Now I just sand to 120 and apply. The purpose of raising the grain is to open the pores. This isn’t needed at 120. I have actually applied at 150 without it and had the same results.
@@bentswoodworking I “water popped” and cleaned the surface with mineral spirits then applied. I can still feel the “little fuzzies” from the water popping after the Rubio has dried. Any way of getting rid of that or way to avoid in the future? Thanks!
@@trentfeeney1263 I'm pretty sure he missed the part where you sand after water popping.
Very useful video, thanks for sharing it with us 🙏🏼
Was looking into finishes to use for Intarsia work, this looks like a good one to try
I enjoy using it
Great Information. I have a question. I am going to try this on some original doors in my house. I have taken the many layers of paint and varnish off with sanding. The only problem I am having is the small trim around the inside panel. If I do not get this off will it affect the process on the panel and the sides of the door?
I would think it would need the wood fibers in order to bond.
I see that you do not recommend lighting sanding after water popping. The Wood Whisperer's video on Rubio Monocoat application adds in this additional step (light sanding at the same grit which was "water popped") after water popping. I fail to see how sanding _after_ water popping for Rubio is a good idea, since you'd be closing those pores that you just "popped" open, again but, I trust the wood whisperer's advice, usually. Do you have any insight into this discrepancy? Have you ever lightly sanded after water popping? Thank you for making these videos.
The point of water popping is because you need to open the pores up to allow better bonding when sanding to grits higher that the 120 which Rubio recommends. If you sand lightly after water popping, then it may give you less bonding abilities. Now, will all that being said, water popping isn’t a necessity from my experience. Also, I know plenty of people that sand to higher grits and still use it without issues. Just test it out on a small piece before starting your project and do what you find works best for you.
if you have epoxy in a hole with something in hole will you still see it through the monocoat?
Yes you would
Great video. How do you find the durability to compare with a standard wipe on oil poly like miniwax?
A film forming finish will naturally be more durable but harder to repair
Great video. Does using Rubio Monocoat Precolor change any part of your application?
Hi Ben, thank you for sharing your tips on using Rubio Monocoat oil Plus. Will this method give a similar finish to White Oak Veneer surfaces? Have you tried their 'Smoke - Rubio Monocoat' ? If so, could you upload a video demonstration of Smoke on white oak please? Thank you.
I plan to do an oak finish comparison soon. Pure on white oak give an orange tint
Great vid Jason! I can smell the Rubio deliciousness from here! And thanks for the syringe shoutout!
Smelled so good for days!
Thanks for the helpful video. I haven't used Rubio before but I'm working on a table that I plan to try it on for the top. Question- would the process be similar for the table legs? I'm making cabriole legs and would like to use it for the entire piece. Thanks in advance for the answer!
I like to use the pads on vertical surfaces. Easy to apply
I see others using a buffer after removing the excess. They make it sound like this is an essential step. What do you think?
I have never used a actual buffer
Rubio says you MUST remove ALL excess oil. Depending on the size of the piece...using a buffer just makes sure it's all gone by making that process easier...
Amazing video. Thanks for the great information. After wiping the excess finish, are you able to throw the terry clothes in the washing machine and reuse? Or does the waxy substance ruin it?
I don’t reuse them. I soak them in water and then toss them after they dry.
Jason, great video. I have a couple questions. Do you not sand after water popping? I tried this last night and the surface feels pretty rough. Wouldn't a non water popped, sanded to 120 be smoother? Also, how long does it take for the slight oily feel take to go away?
I water popped because I went to 150. You don’t necessarily need to at 120 cause the grain is still open and the fibers can bond with the material. Keep in mind that I applied with the pad so when buffing it in, it smooths the surface knocking down any material. Also, it feels rough because we are all use to sanding to a higher grit. As for the oily feel, after wiping Off the excess well, I let it sit for 24 hours. 👍
Awesome video/information...thanks so much!
You’re welcome
I think the knots and voids are the prettiest part of that wood 😂
Nothing wrong with that 👍
Hello can this be used on veneer wood as well and will it have more or less the same pattern?
I just subscribed after watching a lot of your content.. Let me ask this, cutting boards or serving trays require BOTH sides to be finished (as do most things) must you do one side and wait 24 hours, flip and do other side or is it safe to do one side and chock that side with pyramids and do other side at same time?
Hi, I've some live edge counters that I want to treat. Am I correct in saying there was no buffing machine needed,, just towel and elbow grease to finish off?
Correct
Hi there! Great video, do you know what the name of the white applicator pad is called? Can I buy at home depot?
I already have the 2C rubio mono, but just need the white pad (don't want to use plastic spreader).
Thanks!
They are non abrasive pads. I haven’t found the exact ones but have found similar. Rubio does sell the pads on their website
@@bentswoodworking is it something like this shorturl.at/jsDUZ ?? Thanks for this video! your demo has convinced me to try oil based products.