Straight to the point. You are an excellent teacher. When I saw this was a 16 min video I initially cringed thinking 12 minutes would be anecdotal stories and 4 minutes of useful intel. But this was time well spent and it seems others below have also noted your strength in this. So I wanted to compliment you and say Thank You!😁
I love your videos, however, the sound seems far lower volume from most others. I have full volume and still a bit difficult if there is any background noise at all. Keep up your good work and videos.
So - leaving a comment 4 years after the post was made😂 Great video, great tutorial, great information! Been a carpenter and builder for 3o odd years. A co-worker recently recommended Rubio '2c' for a 'coffe river table' finish, topping of with their finishing oil. So, visited a demonstration in Malmö (southern Sweden). While being well informed there by a great salesman, your input is as great as it comes! Having used a lot of different products over the years (incl 'danish oil'), I am totally convinced of Rubio being a superior product. Thanks, a great video. Merry Christmas 2023 😊❤
Just tested my first batch of the Rubio and I’m way more pumped on the color saturation and feel than I was expecting. Going to let it cure for a week and see bit I think this will be a great finish for our mid century kitchen cabinet rehab. Thanks for the clear instructions. Straight to the point.
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I finally found Rubio after years of messing around with various finishes for the walnut dining table I built (Tung oil, carnuba wax, Emmett's good Stuff.) I was never happy with the finish and drink rings are (were) my nemesis. This stuff is spectacular. If only I'd known about it 20 years ago. Made my table look like new and I'm about to refinish my mom's oak dining table (with my new Festool sander!) and will definitely be using this on it. Thanks for the refresher!
I always thought the squeegee was the only way. Nice to learn a better way. Can you post a link to the buffing block and handle, please? I'm having hard time finding them. Thanks!
great video on the Rubio. I used it on a large lazy susan and i hated it. It seemed really dull and patchy so i'm gonna have to try a second coat from now on. I also didn't use the applicator pad, i just used a rag and rubbed it in well. It is very hard to get a good video showing a proper process and you nailed it. Cheers and thanks for the video!!
I only had 320 grit to use on a sofa/end tables I just finished; I thought I'd give it a go and see how the finish turned out, and it was still great. Rubio is such a good product, I think it's hard to screw up!
Thank you so much, really great helpful video for using this product on smaller items. Planning on getting a butcher block desktop and I think this is the finish I will go with for it. Thanks again!
How'd it go for you? I'm working on a butcher block right now desktop right now. Apprehensive about a second coat but feel like I may not have let the first coat bond for long enough, or wiped too much off. Nervous about getting the details for the second coat perfect 😶🌫️
Thanks tons Bent, I just made a 40”x16” round coffee table outta 8/4 Ash and am getting ready to apply the Rubio Monocoat Oil+2C cotton WHite and this really does help as I usually use oil finishes but have never used the Rubio, Thanks, this helps a lot
Thanks for these great Rubio videos (and your many others.) Just finished with Rubio for the first time on a pretty spectacular walnut free edge bookmatched dining table, and before each and every step of the finishing process I reviewed the applicable segment of your video as tutorial. I got a beautiful natural result and no doubt avoided a number of newbie errors that could have turned my project into a frantic nightmare. Felt like you were right there giving me instructions mano a mano. Thank you!
@@garrettjones1699 Spectacular transformation! IMO, 2 coats definitely called for, but result is fantastic if you simply follow the steps here. My client was wild about the finished piece. You can see pics in my IG feed (@michaelschuler.carpentry.tools) including this one at client's home: instagram.com/p/CSB3co1Lq8M/?
@@garrettjones1699 Thanks! The build was a blast from the past for me. I hadn't done any client furniture making for decades. My market supports my finish carpentry and door hanging specialities much better, but transforming slabs straight from the boule into something useful and beautiful once in a while is good for the Soul...
@@bentswoodworking My nephew wanted me to finish his new oak table slab. I told him to drop it off with whatever finish he preferred. He brought Rubio. Looks easier than Poly now.
Jason, thanks for the info. I've seen it used before but never really understood much about it. I'll keep this video in mind when I'm ready to use the product in the future.
Awesome video thanks. Came here via Rubio as I have been looking for a product to finish drum shells. Really taken by your knowledge and teaching style. Have been watching your videos for the last hour lol. Thanks very much
Great video, we have been using Rubio for close to 8 years, great product! You may have met Justin down in Texas? We do break the "rules" (-: We send to 220 on virtually any table when using rubio, we also have never used the "wood cleaner" instead use an air gun for a few minutes. I just can't leave wood sanded to only 120-150 grit there is so much more potential when at least going to 220. In fact I have done many tables sanded to 400 grit then finished with Rubio and never had one customer come back to me with negative feedback / issues.
I did and it was a great time!!! Good to know about the sanding. I know many people have and do. It’s also reassuring from someone who has been using it successfully for so long. 👍👊🏼
Of course I am late to the party but I am just seeing this after I just went up through 100 - 150 - 220 - 320 to 400 grit on an epoxy desk top with beautiful English Walnut - seeing your comment I think I am just going to roll the dice ;-) Seems crazy to go backwards . . .
Great video and very in-depth. I was looking for something for a cherry coffee table that I’m building and I think this might be just the ticket! Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Thanks for the video very informative..., I’ve been a little hesitant to use this product but seeing this video , I’m sure I can apply on my next project. Thanks again!
Great videos especially about the Rubio Monocoat application. Just about to do my first Monocoat 2C Plus Pure finish on a walnut bath caddy/tray with Ecopoxy FlowCast SPR. Quick newbie question…I have the white 3M pad as well as the maroon 3M pad. Is the 3M white pad similar (but thinner) to the white application pad that you used to apply the Rubio? And is the 3M maroon pad similar to the one that you used. Thank you again for your excellent videos…I’m continuing to learn every day
This is the best 15 or so minutes I've spent on YT in a while! Thanks for the well organized and clearly presented information. You've already answered so many of my questions! I am planning to use RM to seal my walnut island top, which is not yet installed. Quick question- if I apply to the bottom of my island first, do I need to wait any length of time before I can flip it over and apply to the top and sides? Thanks in advance :)
Nope! I would do the bottom, wipe it down, then flip it and do the top. Only thing I would do is put it on some painters triangles for about 24 hours so the underside dries. 👍
I am making a dinning room set for my son in white oak and he wants the oak to to have little color change and to be as light in color as possible would rubio work and which one? Great presentation and I am a new subscriber.
I am looking that the Ceruse products from Rubio and that search returned me to your Video nice demo of the Oil Plus 2C which according to the walk thru on the Rubio Monocoat website is one of the steps for Ceruse of Oak and several other hardwoods.
Im just now myself learning about the Rubio system and cant wait to try it. Thanks for all the helpful application and other useful tips. One Question is the small table top I am going to be working on has a large crack that I plan on doing a Resin pour on. Should I do that first before I apply the Rubio to the rest of the table?
I've used your methods on a few projects and it worked great! On my latest project I tried your sand to 150 then water pop method and it did not work out as well as just sanding to 120, water popping and hitting it again lightly with 120. When I water popped my walnut boards, it did not raise the grain evenly, especially near knots and I can feel this on the final product. I'm sure this is one of those "only I will ever tell things" but I can feel the texture inconsistencies when rubbing my hands over the top. I have not seen this when sanding to 120 though.
Great video! I was searching for someone who applied a second coat on wood that absorbs more of the oil (in my case redwood). Thanks for covering that aspect, I'll try it out!
Jason, thanks for this review. If you're ever up to making another video on hard wax oil, I'd love to see your thoughts on Fiddes Hard Wax oil. It's about half the price of Rubio and seems to be a promising alternative to Rubio.
Wonderful explanation of the steps. Building a live edge white oak kitchen table, using Rubio oil plus, 2c. What are your thoughts in using the Rubio Universal Maintenance material for the final coat?
Thanks for spreading the information. What if you need to cover two sides of the detail? How long do you wait for the 1st side to dry before flipping the detail?
A quick added note… A Rubio rep was at my local Woodcraft last week demonstrating the Monocoat product line. He used a non-abrasive pad to apply the product, but also mentioned that you could use a maroon Scotch-Brite pad as an applicator to knock the grain down while spreading the product - sort of like wet sanding. Just thought I'd throw it out there in case it's helpful.
Great video, best one I have seen before!, The only 2 questions I have which I have not seen - Ill ask particular to my piece - I just built a one drawer night stand. 1) how long will it dry fully before I bring it to the bedroom, 2) Would you absolutely recommend I use the oil 2 C with the monocoat, I am hearing that the 2C oil is only necessary for high traffic areas and I may be ok with just the monocoat. Many thanks
@@bentswoodworking Many thanks for the quick reply Ill use the 2c and be safe. How would you recommend I stain the 4 sides of the nightstand box - stain 1 side (facing up) than flip to another side than keep flipping. Last I don't have access to the rubio cleaner and I wanted to stain today if there an alternative, can I use damp cloth or mineral spirits.
Thanks for such nice detailed instruction, very useful for first users like myself. A question remained: the cans say you should stir before use. You stir after mixing the 2 components, but I don't see you stir the original can content. Would you recommend to stir each component first, before using the syringe to extract?
Great video and just in time i have 4 dining table builds coming up and all of them are walnut tops with Ash bases. Can't wait to use it. Also will there be a build video on the table. Btw i love peach state lumber great great company
Thanks for the video, it explained everything leaving no doubts, when I leave the table to dry for 5-7 minutes, when I try to remove the excess it is so hard/sticky I really have to put pressure, and it leaves marks from my piece of cloth
Best video I have found to date! I have two questions...if you don't mind...How many square feet does the 350ml cover? And if I choose to do a second coat, do I need to use the accelerator with it? Thanks again for the great video...cannot wait to get this stuff and start on my butcher block...!
Thank you for the video, really good demonstration and interesting, this is not a troll . On the first application the Rubio didn't absorb once applied due to the molecular structure. Serious Question 😃 why / how did it absorb the second coat ? Nevertheless I will be using this method soon . Many thanks Dai
No, it did absorb more into those areas. It still absorbs into the wood. It just bonds with the fibers. Certain areas it will absorb more especially on walnut
Great video, thank you! 1. What sanding grit should I use for a desk table top made from baltic birch plywood? It's already sanded at the factory but I don't know to what grit they sanded it. 2. I understand that water popping a 150-grit-sanded-wood opens the pores to have a better molecular bond and hence make the surface more durable, but could you please explain what happens to the smoothness of the wood after water popping? Will you get as smooth a result after applying the Rubio as without water popping? In other words, are durability and smoothness opposite tradeoffs, or is the surface both durable and smooth?
When applying the second coat, could I use 120 grit sandpape(lightly pressed) instead of the maroon pad. My local hardware stores do not supply the circular pad that you use.
Great video! The syringe tip should not be included in the mm amount. That will actually throw off the ratio. Flip syringe up and measure without any in the tip.
Quick question: How much Rubio should I mix to cover all 6 sides of my Live Edge desk ? It measures 27 inches deep by 60 inches long by 2.5 inches thick. I have been using epoxy & its a lot of work. Excellent video and thank you for guiding us on your process. I have placed my Rubio order & excited to see the results. I
Less than you think. You can always mix more later and touch things up. It won’t show lines from the different applications. It is a bonding process to the wood fibres, not a layering process like polyurethane.
I just subscribed after watching a lot of your content.. Let me ask this, cutting boards or serving trays require BOTH sides to be finished (as do most things) must you do one side and wait 24 hours, flip and do other side or is it safe to do one side and chock that side with pyramids and do other side at same time?
Great help! Getting ready to do a live edge slab and wonder about oractical approach to getting both sides coated? Top first then bottom? Dry time in between? Etc? Thx
I am very intrigued by this finish I am a lacquer finisher from way back, but this seems way easier and quicker. My question is when you're all said and done. How does this finish? Look compared to a lacquer finish. Both being a matte finish. thank you Mark
Great video! I have a few questions: 1. What advantage is there to sanding to 150 and water popping vs just sanding to 120? 2. So you don't sand after water popping? In most other videos (not necessarily about rubio) people usually do.
Now I just sand to 120 and apply. The purpose of raising the grain is to open the pores. This isn’t needed at 120. I have actually applied at 150 without it and had the same results.
@@bentswoodworking I “water popped” and cleaned the surface with mineral spirits then applied. I can still feel the “little fuzzies” from the water popping after the Rubio has dried. Any way of getting rid of that or way to avoid in the future? Thanks!
Your RM video was helpful. My question is this: I have hard maple kitchen counter tops; what I need is a finish resistant to water and a gloss top coat. If RM isn’t best what is?
Rubio says you MUST remove ALL excess oil. Depending on the size of the piece...using a buffer just makes sure it's all gone by making that process easier...
Jason, I love your videos. Can you tell us about the measuring tool storage zone on the wall around 12m 20sec in this video and which measuring tools you find the most convenient to use?
I believe you are talking about the woodpeckers tools. I have a use for all of them at times. My Paolini ruler is the most used. Then the T rulers probably. Then the squares are used frequently
Thanks Jason. That helps. That storage board/shelf/container is great looking as well. Maybe I'll try my hand at copying it sometime. Happy Thanksgiving!
I see that you do not recommend lighting sanding after water popping. The Wood Whisperer's video on Rubio Monocoat application adds in this additional step (light sanding at the same grit which was "water popped") after water popping. I fail to see how sanding _after_ water popping for Rubio is a good idea, since you'd be closing those pores that you just "popped" open, again but, I trust the wood whisperer's advice, usually. Do you have any insight into this discrepancy? Have you ever lightly sanded after water popping? Thank you for making these videos.
The point of water popping is because you need to open the pores up to allow better bonding when sanding to grits higher that the 120 which Rubio recommends. If you sand lightly after water popping, then it may give you less bonding abilities. Now, will all that being said, water popping isn’t a necessity from my experience. Also, I know plenty of people that sand to higher grits and still use it without issues. Just test it out on a small piece before starting your project and do what you find works best for you.
Great informative video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just have a simple question. Is it necessary to use a polish buffer for this application?
Thank you Jason, i will certainly follow your recomendations. Soon i am going to apply this product on 2.5 meter wood table. I just have a few question: if i should rub down the entire surface manually or use a machine? Should i do it in one go or partially since it is relatively big piece?
You can absolutely use a machine. I know lots of guys that get the pads for the rotex and put it on with that. It will be much faster. I would say do it in sections so it doesn’t sit long before wiping off the excess. It will blend perfectly
Amazing video. Thanks for the great information. After wiping the excess finish, are you able to throw the terry clothes in the washing machine and reuse? Or does the waxy substance ruin it?
Straight to the point. You are an excellent teacher. When I saw this was a 16 min video I initially cringed thinking 12 minutes would be anecdotal stories and 4 minutes of useful intel. But this was time well spent and it seems others below have also noted your strength in this. So I wanted to compliment you and say Thank You!😁
Man what a difference in your videos now vs 6 months ago. Bravo. Bravo.
Lol yeah hopefully in 6 more months they will be even better
I love your videos, however, the sound seems far lower volume from most others. I have full volume and still a bit difficult if there is any background noise at all. Keep up your good work and videos.
So - leaving a comment 4 years after the post was made😂
Great video, great tutorial, great information!
Been a carpenter and builder for 3o odd years. A co-worker recently recommended Rubio '2c' for a 'coffe river table' finish, topping of with their finishing oil.
So, visited a demonstration in Malmö (southern Sweden).
While being well informed there by a great salesman, your input is as great as it comes!
Having used a lot of different products over the years (incl 'danish oil'), I am totally convinced of Rubio being a superior product.
Thanks, a great video.
Merry Christmas 2023 😊❤
The simplicity of this process is boggling my mind. And As always you explain it like a pro. Thanks JB
Thanks!
Just tested my first batch of the Rubio and I’m way more pumped on the color saturation and feel than I was expecting. Going to let it cure for a week and see bit I think this will be a great finish for our mid century kitchen cabinet rehab. Thanks for the clear instructions. Straight to the point.
Excellent video. I'm about to apply some Rubio to an antique kitchen table restored, and your video explains everything very clearly. Thanks so much!
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I finally found Rubio after years of messing around with various finishes for the walnut dining table I built (Tung oil, carnuba wax, Emmett's good Stuff.) I was never happy with the finish and drink rings are (were) my nemesis. This stuff is spectacular. If only I'd known about it 20 years ago. Made my table look like new and I'm about to refinish my mom's oak dining table (with my new Festool sander!) and will definitely be using this on it. Thanks for the refresher!
Thanks, you, explained everything clear . I really like that look of the finished wood .
Glad you found it helpful
Very useful ahead of my first monocoat job - many thanks
This video is better the Rubios video. Thank you for this. And I'll definitely be subscribing to the channel!
Glad you found it helpful
Best video on the subject I’ve found. Helped so much for my project. Subscribed!!
Glad you found it helpful!
I always thought the squeegee was the only way. Nice to learn a better way.
Can you post a link to the buffing block and handle, please? I'm having hard time finding them. Thanks!
Thank you!! I should’ve known I’d find my Rubio questions answered on your channel. I continue to learn so much from your channel. 👍🏼👍🏼
Great tutorial. Thanks!
Best tutorial I’ve seen. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Simple and straight to the point; no bs. Well done!!!
Glad you found it helpful
great video on the Rubio. I used it on a large lazy susan and i hated it. It seemed really dull and patchy so i'm gonna have to try a second coat from now on. I also didn't use the applicator pad, i just used a rag and rubbed it in well. It is very hard to get a good video showing a proper process and you nailed it.
Cheers and thanks for the video!!
Glad you found it helpful!!
Excellent video and advice...doing a curved island unit oak worktop with Rubio 2c ,. Can't wait to get stuck in..
Thanks again.
You’re welcome
I only had 320 grit to use on a sofa/end tables I just finished; I thought I'd give it a go and see how the finish turned out, and it was still great. Rubio is such a good product, I think it's hard to screw up!
I have sanded over 120 plenty and never had any issues myself
Jason best rubiomonocoat video on RUclips. Very thorough! And I don’t think you talked a lot haha
Oh I always talk a lot. 🤣🤣 But thank you 👊🏼👊🏼
Thank you for all the information, have yet to try Rubio monocoat with all the reviews and your video is a perfect tutorial.
Glad you found it helpful!!
Thank you so much, really great helpful video for using this product on smaller items. Planning on getting a butcher block desktop and I think this is the finish I will go with for it. Thanks again!
How'd it go for you? I'm working on a butcher block right now desktop right now. Apprehensive about a second coat but feel like I may not have let the first coat bond for long enough, or wiped too much off. Nervous about getting the details for the second coat perfect 😶🌫️
Glad it was helpful!
@@user-bh8ys8ii4i I've ordered the desktop, it should be here by Friday!
Excellent info, I just got my first commission using this product. Thank you!
You’re welcome
Thanks Jason! Your videos are always informative. I also love the way you present your content. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!!
Thanks tons Bent, I just made a 40”x16” round coffee table outta 8/4 Ash and am getting ready to apply the Rubio Monocoat Oil+2C cotton WHite and this really does help as I usually use oil finishes but have never used the Rubio, Thanks, this helps a lot
Glad to hear you found it helpful 👍
Awesome video man! I think I'll try this application next time.
Do it!
Thanks for these great Rubio videos (and your many others.) Just finished with Rubio for the first time on a pretty spectacular walnut free edge bookmatched dining table, and before each and every step of the finishing process I reviewed the applicable segment of your video as tutorial. I got a beautiful natural result and no doubt avoided a number of newbie errors that could have turned my project into a frantic nightmare. Felt like you were right there giving me instructions mano a mano. Thank you!
Glad you found it helpful!
Did you find that it made the grain really pop out!?
@@garrettjones1699 Spectacular transformation! IMO, 2 coats definitely called for, but result is fantastic if you simply follow the steps here. My client was wild about the finished piece. You can see pics in my IG feed (@michaelschuler.carpentry.tools) including this one at client's home: instagram.com/p/CSB3co1Lq8M/?
@@michael.schuler Looks fantastic! I bet it looks even better in person great job!
@@garrettjones1699 Thanks! The build was a blast from the past for me. I hadn't done any client furniture making for decades. My market supports my finish carpentry and door hanging specialities much better, but transforming slabs straight from the boule into something useful and beautiful once in a while is good for the Soul...
Great video. Now I'm ready to try Rubio for my first time.
Good luck 👍
@@bentswoodworking My nephew wanted me to finish his new oak table slab. I told him to drop it off with whatever finish he preferred. He brought Rubio. Looks easier than Poly now.
Jason, thanks for the info. I've seen it used before but never really understood much about it. I'll keep this video in mind when I'm ready to use the product in the future.
Excellent!
Great vid Jason! I can smell the Rubio deliciousness from here! And thanks for the syringe shoutout!
Smelled so good for days!
Thanks for the video and the way you explain. Very detailed and straight to the point. Good work!
Awesome video thanks. Came here via Rubio as I have been looking for a product to finish drum shells. Really taken by your knowledge and teaching style. Have been watching your videos for the last hour lol. Thanks very much
Thank you so much! Glad you are finding the video’s helpful!!
Great video, we have been using Rubio for close to 8 years, great product! You may have met Justin down in Texas? We do break the "rules" (-: We send to 220 on virtually any table when using rubio, we also have never used the "wood cleaner" instead use an air gun for a few minutes. I just can't leave wood sanded to only 120-150 grit there is so much more potential when at least going to 220. In fact I have done many tables sanded to 400 grit then finished with Rubio and never had one customer come back to me with negative feedback / issues.
I did and it was a great time!!! Good to know about the sanding. I know many people have and do. It’s also reassuring from someone who has been using it successfully for so long. 👍👊🏼
Of course I am late to the party but I am just seeing this after I just went up through 100 - 150 - 220 - 320 to 400 grit on an epoxy desk top with beautiful English Walnut - seeing your comment I think I am just going to roll the dice ;-) Seems crazy to go backwards . . .
Do you water pop at any of the grits when going to 220? I agree - best to go to at least 220...
Great video and very in-depth. I was looking for something for a cherry coffee table that I’m building and I think this might be just the ticket! Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Glad you found it helpful
Thanks for the video very informative..., I’ve been a little hesitant to use this product but seeing this video , I’m sure I can apply on my next project.
Thanks again!
You’re welcome !
Great videos especially about the Rubio Monocoat application. Just about to do my first Monocoat 2C Plus Pure finish on a walnut bath caddy/tray with Ecopoxy FlowCast SPR. Quick newbie question…I have the white 3M pad as well as the maroon 3M pad. Is the 3M white pad similar (but thinner) to the white application pad that you used to apply the Rubio? And is the 3M maroon pad similar to the one that you used. Thank you again for your excellent videos…I’m continuing to learn every day
Yes many companies sell the pads. They actually makes them for sanders as well
This is the best 15 or so minutes I've spent on YT in a while! Thanks for the well organized and clearly presented information. You've already answered so many of my questions! I am planning to use RM to seal my walnut island top, which is not yet installed. Quick question- if I apply to the bottom of my island first, do I need to wait any length of time before I can flip it over and apply to the top and sides? Thanks in advance :)
Nope! I would do the bottom, wipe it down, then flip it and do the top. Only thing I would do is put it on some painters triangles for about 24 hours so the underside dries. 👍
@@bentswoodworking Awesome! That's just what I'll do. Thank you so much!
I am making a dinning room set for my son in white oak and he wants the oak to to have little color change and to be as light in color as possible would rubio work and which one? Great presentation and I am a new subscriber.
Great video - I'm going to try Rubio on my next project. This was super informative and gives me the confidence to go for it. Thanks!
Awesome!!
I am looking that the Ceruse products from Rubio and that search returned me to your Video nice demo of the Oil Plus 2C which according to the walk thru on the Rubio Monocoat website is one of the steps for Ceruse of Oak and several other hardwoods.
Im just now myself learning about the Rubio system and cant wait to try it. Thanks for all the helpful application and other useful tips. One Question is the small table top I am going to be working on has a large crack that I plan on doing a Resin pour on. Should I do that first before I apply the Rubio to the rest of the table?
I would fill the holes first, yes
Always a great video! I am a believer now in this product brother!
Thanks Jason!!
You’re welcome
I think the knots and voids are the prettiest part of that wood 😂
Nothing wrong with that 👍
Thanks JB!
👊🏼
I've used your methods on a few projects and it worked great! On my latest project I tried your sand to 150 then water pop method and it did not work out as well as just sanding to 120, water popping and hitting it again lightly with 120. When I water popped my walnut boards, it did not raise the grain evenly, especially near knots and I can feel this on the final product. I'm sure this is one of those "only I will ever tell things" but I can feel the texture inconsistencies when rubbing my hands over the top. I have not seen this when sanding to 120 though.
I used this on a pair of speaker cabinets last spring. I liked it but I just tried Osmo 2K on another pair and I prefer the Osmo.
Thanks for this, im making my table today very useful video !!! XD
Awesome!!
Thank you very much for this video. Really helped. Appreciate it.
You’re welcome
Fantastic demonstration! Thank you for posting this.
You’re welcome
Excellent instruction! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! I was searching for someone who applied a second coat on wood that absorbs more of the oil (in my case redwood). Thanks for covering that aspect, I'll try it out!
Glad you found it helpful
Great video! Thank you for all the tips.
Glad you found it helpful
Awesome video/information...thanks so much!
You’re welcome
Jason, thanks for this review. If you're ever up to making another video on hard wax oil, I'd love to see your thoughts on Fiddes Hard Wax oil. It's about half the price of Rubio and seems to be a promising alternative to Rubio.
I haven’t heard of that before. I’ll have to check it out
Very useful video, thanks for sharing it with us 🙏🏼
Wonderful explanation of the steps. Building a live edge white oak kitchen table, using Rubio oil plus, 2c.
What are your thoughts in using the Rubio Universal Maintenance material for the final coat?
Would love to hear your thoughts below!! 👍
Newbie here. Trying to use rubios monocoat 2c to pop the grain on a sepele chest. Testing on on a spot now.
Thanks for spreading the information. What if you need to cover two sides of the detail? How long do you wait for the 1st side to dry before flipping the detail?
This video is so informative Jason! Thanks so much!!
Thanks Donny! Glad you found it helpful 👊🏼
A quick added note… A Rubio rep was at my local Woodcraft last week demonstrating the Monocoat product line. He used a non-abrasive pad to apply the product, but also mentioned that you could use a maroon Scotch-Brite pad as an applicator to knock the grain down while spreading the product - sort of like wet sanding.
Just thought I'd throw it out there in case it's helpful.
Thanks!! 👍
Is woodcraft going to carry the Rubio line of products? Haven't seen these in any woodworking store or home center.
@@troymeredith521 - The Woodcraft store in St. Louis carries the Rubio products. I suppose any Woodcraft can get them.
Good luck!
Great video, best one I have seen before!, The only 2 questions I have which I have not seen - Ill ask particular to my piece - I just built a one drawer night stand. 1) how long will it dry fully before I bring it to the bedroom, 2) Would you absolutely recommend I use the oil 2 C with the monocoat, I am hearing that the 2C oil is only necessary for high traffic areas and I may be ok with just the monocoat. Many thanks
I let it sit for 24 hours, then avoid heavy use for about 4 more days. I always use the two part mix.
@@bentswoodworking
Many thanks for the quick reply Ill use the 2c and be safe. How would you recommend I stain the 4 sides of the nightstand box - stain 1 side (facing up) than flip to another side than keep flipping. Last I don't have access to the rubio cleaner and I wanted to stain today if there an alternative, can I use damp cloth or mineral spirits.
Thanks for such nice detailed instruction, very useful for first users like myself. A question remained: the cans say you should stir before use. You stir after mixing the 2 components, but I don't see you stir the original can content. Would you recommend to stir each component first, before using the syringe to extract?
I do stir up the oil yes.
Great video and just in time i have 4 dining table builds coming up and all of them are walnut tops with Ash bases. Can't wait to use it. Also will there be a build video on the table. Btw i love peach state lumber great great company
Yes, there will be in the coming weeks. I’m excited to get it all together.
Great tutorial
Thanks for sharing your info.
You’re welcome
Thanks for the video, it explained everything leaving no doubts, when I leave the table to dry for 5-7 minutes, when I try to remove the excess it is so hard/sticky I really have to put pressure, and it leaves marks from my piece of cloth
Try breaking it up into smaller sections. You only want it to sit for a short time.
We are using the Maintenance Oil 36 hours later to get a higher sheen, but only doing the 1st coat with Rubiomono Coat C Pure.
Interesting
this video was very helpful
Glad to hear
Great Video..thanks so much sharing this information...
Your very welcome
Great instruction!
Thank you!!
@@bentswoodworking You're welcome.
Best video I have found to date! I have two questions...if you don't mind...How many square feet does the 350ml cover? And if I choose to do a second coat, do I need to use the accelerator with it? Thanks again for the great video...cannot wait to get this stuff and start on my butcher block...!
I don’t know the exact square footage but a little goes a long way. And yes I would always use the accelerator either way
Was looking into finishes to use for Intarsia work, this looks like a good one to try
I enjoy using it
Thank you for the video, really good demonstration and interesting, this is not a troll . On the first application the Rubio didn't absorb once applied due to the molecular structure.
Serious Question 😃 why / how did it absorb the second coat ?
Nevertheless I will be using this method soon .
Many thanks
Dai
No, it did absorb more into those areas. It still absorbs into the wood. It just bonds with the fibers. Certain areas it will absorb more especially on walnut
@@bentswoodworking thank you for your time, I will be looking to try it with walnut soon .
Thank you for the excellent video .
Dai
Great video, thank you!
1. What sanding grit should I use for a desk table top made from baltic birch plywood? It's already sanded at the factory but I don't know to what grit they sanded it.
2. I understand that water popping a 150-grit-sanded-wood opens the pores to have a better molecular bond and hence make the surface more durable, but could you please explain what happens to the smoothness of the wood after water popping? Will you get as smooth a result after applying the Rubio as without water popping? In other words, are durability and smoothness opposite tradeoffs, or is the surface both durable and smooth?
When applying the second coat, could I use 120 grit sandpape(lightly pressed) instead of the maroon pad. My local hardware stores do not supply the circular pad that you use.
I couldn’t say yes or no. I personally think it may be fine with light pressure
Great video! The syringe tip should not be included in the mm amount. That will actually throw off the ratio. Flip syringe up and measure without any in the tip.
Thanks for the info!
Couple of questions plz :
1) what are the impacts of not using an accelerator
2) is rubio monocoat good for maple wood slab ?
Quick question: How much Rubio should I mix to cover all 6 sides of my Live Edge desk ? It measures 27 inches deep by 60 inches long by 2.5 inches thick. I have been using epoxy & its a lot of work. Excellent video and thank you for guiding us on your process. I have placed my Rubio order & excited to see the results. I
Less than you think. You can always mix more later and touch things up. It won’t show lines from the different applications. It is a bonding process to the wood fibres, not a layering process like polyurethane.
Hi i thought the white pad is for whiping oil of as finish. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Good intel, thanks.
I just subscribed after watching a lot of your content.. Let me ask this, cutting boards or serving trays require BOTH sides to be finished (as do most things) must you do one side and wait 24 hours, flip and do other side or is it safe to do one side and chock that side with pyramids and do other side at same time?
Great help! Getting ready to do a live edge slab and wonder about oractical approach to getting both sides coated? Top first then bottom? Dry time in between? Etc? Thx
I always start on the bottom. I let sit for 24 hours prior to doing the top.
@@bentswoodworking if you want to do two coats, would you do them both on the bottom and then flip over, or go back and forth? Thanks!
Ben is right Jason can talk
You could have said my name during Get Bent. Thanks Jason!
I am very intrigued by this finish I am a lacquer finisher from way back, but this seems way easier and quicker. My question is when you're all said and done. How does this finish? Look compared to a lacquer finish. Both being a matte finish. thank you Mark
Thanks!
You’re welcome
Great video! I have a few questions:
1. What advantage is there to sanding to 150 and water popping vs just sanding to 120?
2. So you don't sand after water popping? In most other videos (not necessarily about rubio) people usually do.
Now I just sand to 120 and apply. The purpose of raising the grain is to open the pores. This isn’t needed at 120. I have actually applied at 150 without it and had the same results.
@@bentswoodworking I “water popped” and cleaned the surface with mineral spirits then applied. I can still feel the “little fuzzies” from the water popping after the Rubio has dried. Any way of getting rid of that or way to avoid in the future? Thanks!
@@trentfeeney1263 I'm pretty sure he missed the part where you sand after water popping.
Your RM video was helpful. My question is this: I have hard maple kitchen counter tops; what I need is a finish resistant to water and a gloss top coat. If RM isn’t best what is?
Take a look at waterlox
I see others using a buffer after removing the excess. They make it sound like this is an essential step. What do you think?
I have never used a actual buffer
Rubio says you MUST remove ALL excess oil. Depending on the size of the piece...using a buffer just makes sure it's all gone by making that process easier...
I am going to GO AHEAD and give you a thumbs up
Thanks
Good video
Thanks
Jason, I love your videos. Can you tell us about the measuring tool storage zone on the wall around 12m 20sec in this video and which measuring tools you find the most convenient to use?
I believe you are talking about the woodpeckers tools. I have a use for all of them at times. My Paolini ruler is the most used. Then the T rulers probably. Then the squares are used frequently
Thanks Jason. That helps. That storage board/shelf/container is great looking as well. Maybe I'll try my hand at copying it sometime. Happy Thanksgiving!
I see that you do not recommend lighting sanding after water popping. The Wood Whisperer's video on Rubio Monocoat application adds in this additional step (light sanding at the same grit which was "water popped") after water popping. I fail to see how sanding _after_ water popping for Rubio is a good idea, since you'd be closing those pores that you just "popped" open, again but, I trust the wood whisperer's advice, usually. Do you have any insight into this discrepancy? Have you ever lightly sanded after water popping? Thank you for making these videos.
The point of water popping is because you need to open the pores up to allow better bonding when sanding to grits higher that the 120 which Rubio recommends. If you sand lightly after water popping, then it may give you less bonding abilities. Now, will all that being said, water popping isn’t a necessity from my experience. Also, I know plenty of people that sand to higher grits and still use it without issues. Just test it out on a small piece before starting your project and do what you find works best for you.
Great informative video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I just have a simple question. Is it necessary to use a polish buffer for this application?
Thank you Jason, i will certainly follow your recomendations. Soon i am going to apply this product on 2.5 meter wood table. I just have a few question: if i should rub down the entire surface manually or use a machine? Should i do it in one go or partially since it is relatively big piece?
You can absolutely use a machine. I know lots of guys that get the pads for the rotex and put it on with that. It will be much faster. I would say do it in sections so it doesn’t sit long before wiping off the excess. It will blend perfectly
Great video
Amazing video. Thanks for the great information. After wiping the excess finish, are you able to throw the terry clothes in the washing machine and reuse? Or does the waxy substance ruin it?
I don’t reuse them. I soak them in water and then toss them after they dry.
Great video - thank you!
You’re welcome