Nice, quick video! (If only refinishing floors was this quick--I am now into my 4th weekend, and out much more $ than I anticipated, but I am excited to see the final results.) I filled in the many cracks on my 360 SF white oak floor using Rubio's Woodfiller Quick (light) product (which took six .5 kg containers). When I sampled seven different colors on the sanded, crack-filled floor, I found that the only one that looked seamless on the crack filled areas compared to the natural wood was Pure. Are you able to confirm that Pure is the best color to use (particularly if the Woodfiller Quick color matches the natural color of the sanded wood)?
Thanks for the crisp, informative video! Got my first ($mall) can of 2C in Pure today, and about to apply it to some test patches of white oak for a desk top. Do you wait more than, say, overnight before placing objects on a Rubio’d surface?
Thanks for watching! 3-4 days the first coat would be ideal just to ensure the finish is fully cured, but if you're pressed for time you can push that a bit. We've delivered tables two days after finishing them and our clients didn't have any issues. Worst case, if it does mark up, it's a quick spot sand and refinish to remove it. Hope that helps! 👍
Looks like all the finish disapeared with that 320 grit? Ive tried a red maroon pad instead which leaves a frosty finish, and then the 2nd layer of oil. Also, ive never heard Rubio recommended 10-15 min to dry. They recommend at most 3-5 min, if not right away. At least thats what i've got from Rubio them selves.
We actually do the top first and flip it to do the bottom while the oil is still soaking in! Then we do the bottom, let it sit for about 10 minutes, wipe it off and flip it back over and wipe the top off. This way you don't have a freshly finished top sitting face down while the finish cures, and then also gets the whole piece finished at the same time. If the bottom gets marked up or a bit uneven during curing it doesn't matter since you won't see it. Hope that helps! 👍
hi i have few questions: 1) how long should i wait after I apply 1st coat. should I wait for 24 hours before I start sand it using sand pad grit 320 2) after sand it using geit 320 should I clean it using rubio monocoat raw wood cleaner or just wipe it using dry towel
While the first coat will offer lots of protection, we find that the second coat does a great job in evening out the sheen and ensuring the piece is fully sealed. When working with solid wood pieces like this, you get softer vs. harder spots throughout the slab and will soak in differently in different places, so that second coat just ensures a great finish. Yes you can use it on birch plywood!
No need to water pop with an oil based finish, as oil based finishes don't raise the grain like water based finishes do! When we are working with the Rubio PreColor (water based) we will water pop between coats but not with the Oil+2C. We use non-abrasive hand or sander pads to buff in while the finish is being worked in, but then buff off by hand using microfiber cloths and blue shop rags. Hope that helps!
I’m curious, why so much emphasis on using the 2C when NOT using the isocyanate plastic forming chemicals is actually a more authentic hand rubbed finish? By not using the isocyanate plastic in the finish, the finish becomes a lot more repairable, versatile and frankly longer lasting due to the reason of being able to add more oil to it in the years to come. By calling Rubio a European hardwax oil, and then introducing isocyanate plastic hardener to it, you’ve basically just turned it into a polyurethane that’s spread with a buffing process. There’s so much more that can be done with the oils in years to come in keeping with the heritage of truly finishing wood with natural oils and historic longevity and ease of care, I just don’t see the point in adding plastic to an already superior finish product. Is it just Americans that are dumb enough to believe the product is somehow better by adding the isocyanate plastic forming chemicals to the oil?
@@backwoodstimbercreations Grreat job prevailing over the ad hominem, while completely dodging the very salient and substantive criticism in his post. Isocyanates have been creeping in to finish products lately and people are mindlessly jumping on the bandwagon with zero concept that finishes didnt NEED the isocyantes in the first place. You know the accelerator is very NOT green. Thats what the exclamation mark inside the triangle is trying to tell you. Yet everyone keeps repeating how green Rubio Monocoat is. And it likely is, without the hardener. But then you have to wait 21 days to even look at it. Now that you have defeated the ad hominem part of william's question, would you mind responding to the pertinent challenge presented in his post, because I would also like to hear your answer.
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Nice, quick video! (If only refinishing floors was this quick--I am now into my 4th weekend, and out much more $ than I anticipated, but I am excited to see the final results.) I filled in the many cracks on my 360 SF white oak floor using Rubio's Woodfiller Quick (light) product (which took six .5 kg containers). When I sampled seven different colors on the sanded, crack-filled floor, I found that the only one that looked seamless on the crack filled areas compared to the natural wood was Pure. Are you able to confirm that Pure is the best color to use (particularly if the Woodfiller Quick color matches the natural color of the sanded wood)?
Thanks for the crisp, informative video! Got my first ($mall) can of 2C in Pure today, and about to apply it to some test patches of white oak for a desk top. Do you wait more than, say, overnight before placing objects on a Rubio’d surface?
Thanks for watching! 3-4 days the first coat would be ideal just to ensure the finish is fully cured, but if you're pressed for time you can push that a bit. We've delivered tables two days after finishing them and our clients didn't have any issues. Worst case, if it does mark up, it's a quick spot sand and refinish to remove it. Hope that helps! 👍
Pure sucks on white oak imo. Makes it too orange. Works best for walnut. I like natural for white oak.
Can it be applied to birch plywood?
Looks like all the finish disapeared with that 320 grit? Ive tried a red maroon pad instead which leaves a frosty finish, and then the 2nd layer of oil. Also, ive never heard Rubio recommended 10-15 min to dry. They recommend at most 3-5 min, if not right away. At least thats what i've got from Rubio them selves.
Do you apply Rubio to the bottom side first? How long should you wait before flipping the tabletop over to coat the other side?
We actually do the top first and flip it to do the bottom while the oil is still soaking in! Then we do the bottom, let it sit for about 10 minutes, wipe it off and flip it back over and wipe the top off. This way you don't have a freshly finished top sitting face down while the finish cures, and then also gets the whole piece finished at the same time. If the bottom gets marked up or a bit uneven during curing it doesn't matter since you won't see it. Hope that helps! 👍
hi i have few questions:
1) how long should i wait after I apply 1st coat. should I wait for 24 hours before I start sand it using sand pad grit 320
2) after sand it using geit 320 should I clean it using rubio monocoat raw wood cleaner or just wipe it using dry towel
dry towel
How long does it take to dry
Hi, I thought rubio was just a single coat, I didn't realise you could put another coat on.
Can you use rubio on birch plywood?
While the first coat will offer lots of protection, we find that the second coat does a great job in evening out the sheen and ensuring the piece is fully sealed. When working with solid wood pieces like this, you get softer vs. harder spots throughout the slab and will soak in differently in different places, so that second coat just ensures a great finish. Yes you can use it on birch plywood!
did you water pop and buff?
No need to water pop with an oil based finish, as oil based finishes don't raise the grain like water based finishes do! When we are working with the Rubio PreColor (water based) we will water pop between coats but not with the Oil+2C. We use non-abrasive hand or sander pads to buff in while the finish is being worked in, but then buff off by hand using microfiber cloths and blue shop rags. Hope that helps!
No need to sand first. Just wipe the dust off. WTH??? This video is worthless.
ok. this is pretty worthless.
I’m curious, why so much emphasis on using the 2C when NOT using the isocyanate plastic forming chemicals is actually a more authentic hand rubbed finish?
By not using the isocyanate plastic in the finish, the finish becomes a lot more repairable, versatile and frankly longer lasting due to the reason of being able to add more oil to it in the years to come.
By calling Rubio a European hardwax oil, and then introducing isocyanate plastic hardener to it, you’ve basically just turned it into a polyurethane that’s spread with a buffing process.
There’s so much more that can be done with the oils in years to come in keeping with the heritage of truly finishing wood with natural oils and historic longevity and ease of care, I just don’t see the point in adding plastic to an already superior finish product.
Is it just Americans that are dumb enough to believe the product is somehow better by adding the isocyanate plastic forming chemicals to the oil?
No it's not just Americans... We're Canadian, so I guess we are also dumb :)
@@backwoodstimbercreations
Grreat job prevailing over the ad hominem, while completely dodging the very salient and substantive criticism in his post.
Isocyanates have been creeping in to finish products lately and people are mindlessly jumping on the bandwagon with zero concept that finishes didnt NEED the isocyantes in the first place.
You know the accelerator is very NOT green. Thats what the exclamation mark inside the triangle is trying to tell you. Yet everyone keeps repeating how green Rubio Monocoat is. And it likely is, without the hardener. But then you have to wait 21 days to even look at it.
Now that you have defeated the ad hominem part of william's question, would you mind responding to the pertinent challenge presented in his post, because I would also like to hear your answer.