Yeah, the episodes on BCW where Benny goes to get his car tuned and Benny and Scotty end up talking for ages about cars are gold. I could listen to smart, articulate people taking about their area of expertise for hours.
One of the things to consider is also doing dyno runs with the hood closed. I've seen some setups that could make more power on the dyno because the hood was open and it could pull in fresh air. But, with the hood closed it would either restrict the filter box, or made it pull in hot air. It's a good test since you don't normally drive with the hood open.
Yep...Gale Banks of Banks Engineering is adamant about this as well, do the runs with the hood closed...it makes the vehicle act like it was if it was on the actual road. A vital key is making sure you have enough air being blown at the front end of the vehicle to simulate the windforce as if the thing was moving down the road too.
Loving these educational videos. Studying mechanical engineering so i can appreciate a good design and the details about things like intakes and suspension
I like how the recent videos have this extra content on the second channel, it makes the main video short and easy while giving more information on this channel if I want to hear it
I find the better intakes on newer cars replace the end of the intake. My RamAir intake is sealed to the bonnet but gets more cold air from the grill using the existing channels. Definitely improved throttle response and noise is gnarly.
My last car had a pod filter that was from the OEM's performance division, but it replaced the factory air box lid with an adapter and lived in the stock air box itself.
Short answer, Yes. I tune / remap engines for a living. "Open Air Filters" in a closed Bonnet environment generally cause -4bhp loss. Even more than that in a long heat soak test. Then it can be over -10bhp. Just use a replacement panel filter guys !.
It all depends on the orginal air box and how you install these open air filters. Most poeple choice the cheap dumb ass root of sucking in all the hot air of the engine bay(Killing performance....). These days buy a 3D printer and print the exact box for it so only cold air can be sucked in(Bonus if you create extra ducts for more cold air here, for example create from the brake duct in your bumper a tube to your 3D printed air box increase the cold air comming to the box). And only if you can defeat the same heat as the orginal air box you will see a improvement and if you can get it colder all kudos to you. But mostly its indeed better to stay orginal since these people will not take the time to fight this big problem with open air filters. You probably know this to already but the performance increase if done correctly is not that big if the OEM manufacturer didn't fuck the orginal air box up for emissions or sounds reasons(Really small chance that you have a car with OEM filter box that sucks so much for this to outway a shitty install of a open air filter.).
I just noticed how fekking tall he is! To be fair this is only the second video I've seen with him in it but he was by himself in the other. What is he 0.00126263 miles tall?
I used to keep all factory air cleaner parts on all the cars I've owned. The first time I ever installed a short ram intake it was on a maroon 94 Honda Accord. The air cleaner was getting brittle and I was going to have to remove it to do maintenance. Before I did, just in case, i dropped by the junkyard and wandered up on a metal short ram from a Mitsubishi and a stumpy pod filter with some life left from another car. I bought the pipe and filter for only 7 US dollars. I kept it on hand in my parts pile for a while. The day came where I had to remove the stock air cleaner for maintenance. The plastic and rubber immediately cracked and ripped in my hands. After my maintenance was done I then had an open throttle body and no coupler/ appropriate clamp to just slap the junkyard pipe onto. I had a parts store like 3 miles away and no other way to safely get there. I took a pair of old clean cotton boxers and I used the stock clamp to hold it on the throttle body. I let the car drive itsself to the store. I didn't give it much throttle because I didn't want to blow a hole in the cotton and suck the boxers into the engine. Got to the store and grabbed up a cheap Spectre brand coupler to throw on. It was slow at the store so I told the teenage counter guy about what I did to get there and he came out and watched as I put it on in the parkinglot. We both had a laugh and it looked silly because the filter was a half sized stumpy filter but the thing that caught me off guard was the sound. THE SOUND. I loved it. I could hear more from the car. The car felt more responsive throttle wise and the sound to go with it was great. Later on I found that the air cleaners falling apart on 90's Hondas is extremely common. All but 1 of our Hondas we replaced the plastic with 7-35 dollar metal air cleaners. This last week that 1's air cleaner had a bracket fall apart so It's now a metal pipe as well. If you are someone that wants a bit of whistle and a bark you can hear in the cab get a cone filter with the conical valve bit in the end if you just need to put an air cleaner on to replace the old plastic but you don't want the extra noise get a cone filter with a flat front. Those are quiet. I like ditching the plastic and going to metal it just feels right and reliable. As far as any gains I like to think that I feel a difference on the Accords. Civics I don't notice too much. Ultimately changing out a major engine part on a Honda for a better part will give you more results than changing the air cleaner. However it gives you something fancy that you can see and hear to go with your other real upgrades that you've done with the car. For me it's just the personal Cherry on top of my work for myself to enjoy.
The K&N typhoon intake on my car works great. The sound is worth the money alone. The provide dyno charts which showed an improvement to power but I could honestly care less. The sound and intake whooshes are where its at.
The old NA EJ20’s get a massive flat spot in the rev range if you remove the big intake box coming off the throttle body. It was my introduction to intake importance 15 years ago 😅
Genuinely think you'd have been better off just changing the panel filter for a high flow one. Modern intake systems are generally far superior to anything you can buy off the shelf. There's a few different systems for my 208gti and in a comparison test, all the induction kits currently available lost plenty of power over stock and the k&n and pipercross panel filters had a marginal gain.
I bought a car used with a cold air intake, the filter was located in the fender pulling cold air totally sepaerate from the engine bay, it sounded good not sure it added any horsepower, most modern cars have the inlet in the airstream anyway so it is already a cold air intake. The length and diameter of the intake is carefully considered by the automakers so if they are selling a performance car its likely they have it sorted out already.
Not always right. Depends on the car to be honest. My Mazda MX5 k8 engine just responds better with the pod then a stock air box. I have reverted it back and forth and unfortunately it feels like a lug after 4000 rpm with a stock air box high panel filter. Nicer under 4000 rpm.... but feels like it's choked. With a greddy M Pod filter it lost power and felt sluggish. It's bigger then the SCA Pod filters and shape. With a cheap SCA pod filter it just revved freely and pulled past 4000 rpm to redline. Just felt smoother, better and not choking. Gets the revs up quick and performs IMO much better. I love my car better now. so much more fun
my K11 Micra had a pod filter sat right on top of the throttle body. Hard to loose power when you're starting with none! That's why Nuggets are soo cool.
Something I’ve always wondered about, if you could incorporate a cooling coil from a small D/C fridge into the intake somehow would it lower the intake temp’s enough to make a difference? Hmm smells like a good video I’d love to see 👍
In some motorcycles, an exhaust system design has been used where, right after the header pipes, the exhaust transitions into a structure that incorporates a perforated inner tube wrapped in sound-absorbing material, which is then enclosed by an outer shell. This dampened section is followed by the actual mufflers. I am planning to build a similar system for my car, as my preference is for minimal exhaust noise while retaining substantial power. My question is: does this type of exhaust design reduce engine performance? I believe it shouldn’t have much of an impact since the system remains a fully free-flowing setup that effectively reduces sound levels.
The first thing I did when I got my ST was tear the airbox out and throw a Mishimoto pod on it. The obnoxious speed snail noises far outweighed any lost performance and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
I've had a £800 carbon enclosed kit and a £50 ebay short ram kit and the IAT was only really higher when sat in traffic or crawling. Can you please do some IAT temps on a moving car at different speeds and compare them.
Regardless of whether they gain or lose power, the fact is they allow much more dirt and debris into your engine which will shorten its lifespan. Look up "ISO 5011 Duramax air filter test" if you don't believe me. A stock paper air filter allowed 0.4 grams of dirt through the filter, and took 60 minutes to clog up. The K&N filter allowed 7 grams of dirt to pass and clogged up in 24 minutes. So not only do you get worse filtration, you also have to clean the filter regularly otherwise that 1hp gain turns into a 10hp loss lol.
I had a '93 C**ic Si many moons ago and did a hot air intake on it. Ended up selling the intake to the next biggest fool and put a drop in K&N in the stock airbox!
Those oiled cotton filters let in far more dust than a paper filter. I race a car in budget endurance racing and I send in an oil sample for analysis after each race. I was getting silica numbers higher than normal, so I switched back to an OEM intake and the silica basically went away.
Mad question lads, can you run an intercooler on a naturally aspirated car to produce colder air ? Sorry for the edit but just to clarify, if you have no space in the bay and have to run your pod hot.
Using a conventional air to air intercooler will not lower the intake air temp. The air passing through the intercooler fins is at the same temperature as the air going in through the pipe. The reason you run an intercooler after a turbo is because of how hot the air gets when compressed. So in that case the outside air is much cooler. I would like to see a test with a water to air intercooler with chilled water on a NA engine.
If you have an issue of the car sucking in hot air from the engine, an intercooler would help slightly with that. But you'd also be adding restrictions in your airflow and throttle response so any minute gain from it would be lost from the downside. Solution is to just put your intake where it can get fresh cold air.
I keep seeing an intake for a Caprice PPV/ Holden Statesman that pulls “cool” air over the top of the radiator, expensive but it seem like it would be a hot air intake
Turbo probably impacts all that theory. Tuned intake resonance goes out the window with a compressor turbine chopping up any pressure waves. Also heating of the intake air by the turbo probably is worse than a pod filter picking up warmer air. Hopefully the FMIC will cool it all back down anyway.
The Planet of The Tuning Apes is going bananas in a parallel universe right now boys. The apes will always worship the pod air filter as if it's some sort of cooling machine. People who don't understand "heat soak" will never believe the truth of losing power with a "cold air intake". I love how Moog calls it a "hot air intake" @4:03. Long time fan
better to use stock system and just connect a hose from your cabin AC under dash box to your air engine intakes before the filters of course for a true cold air intake...cheaper too
Not everyone that uses a pod filter or a cold air intake, does it for performance. You can't deny they look better than the stock intake, even if performance is negligible.
As 62 year old. Car nut. Raced Rx 3 at Bathurst. Hj van with 202 stroker. 300hp.. um. Pod filters are a Huge Wank.. The air that comes into front of car is all you get. A pod filter isn't going to change it..
Do POD FILTERS Make You Lose Power? - Depends on the car, the cars intake system from factory, the elevation at which you live at ( yes this matters), and the quality of the filter. Something like a Sprint air filter for a Super Bike, is time and time again proven to increase power figures. However it is also well known to be a TRACK ONLY filter. Barely "Filters" anything, K&N are bad for this too, but they filter a LOT more than a Sprint... So if you are daily driving you car.. or Bike.,, Highly Recommended against. However a Decent one with an intake tube system can obviously help get more air in faster. Whether the car/bike and ECU can do anything with that is another story completely.
It used to be a joke years ago, using the air conditioner to do this... But then Dodge actually does exactly this, with one of the Hellcat-derived models :D
All facts 👌 but did you take into account intake pipe length pre throttle body ? I did testing on this year's ago using a vacuum gauge and found the longer the pipe pre throttle body the more vacuum is made leading me to believe that's a restriction. Anything over 30 cm long at the same size as throttle body starts to create restriction I could be wrong I'm only a mechanic not an engineer 😂👍
@@sinAnon6689 no even a turbo has to suck harder to overcome that same effect if it's intake is to long there for still a restriction how ever slight. Just look at the highest hp drag cars not much before the turbo if anything at all
The longer and more bends a tube has, the less flow it get. Best option is one bend and just create a barrier (shield) from the hot side with a hose driving cold air to it.
Cheap pod filter,the metal round thingy in the center of the pod will come loose,and your intake will suck it straight to the engine Thats why better to use stock filter than cheap pod filter
You'll lose power but you'll gain fuel economy imo. Everytime I hypermile Poland to England Install a pod filter just above the transmission. I can get an extra 60 miles or so to a tank of fuel. When you do the trip often and use 2 tanks of fuel for the journey one way it pays off in the long run when you're not chasing an extra HP. I want to know the science why I get more fuel economy with a hot intake as appose to a stock air box. I know a small bit from HP academy days but I never got too far into it to understand fully why. I've covered so many miles in my civic for nearly 8 years so I know it like the back of my hand. Maybe it's something to do with the vtec-e I just don't know
ok so ... for the Suzuki : pod filter on the right fog light (headlight pls make it happen). annnnnd for the Peugeot : hood air vent (MAKE IT HAAAAPPPEEENNN). Mmmmmmhh fresh air!
OK, so obviously they can't cover every single minutiae of detail about air intake systems. One thing that I learned the hard way that I'd like to warn anybody here if they don't already know is you never put an oiled filter on a car that has a math sensor. The reason that is is no matter how good the filter is if you have to oil it at some point particles of that oil will build up on the map sensor and destroy it. I learned this the hard way and it costs me between 400 and $700 to get the part.
I've always wondered I know cold air is better and makes more power. That being said over here it gets -10c in winter and peaks at 40c in the summer. And I've never really felt a difference in power in my car. Maybe it's because my car doesn't have a lot of power to begin with. Or maybe it just happens so gradually that I don't notice. But if someone could explain I'm really interested.
Cold air packs in more oxygen molecules. Oxygen is an oxidizer, which blends with fuel in an optimized ratio to be ignited for combustion. Taking that same ratio, but increasing the amount of oxygen, allows you to burn more fuel, which results in increased combustion.
Air gets denser as it gets colder, the molecules pack together closer and closer so the same volume of air will contain more oxygen to burn fuel with - just to clarify that first bit.
Would it be possible to force feed the air from the climate system into the intake? I know Dodge did something along those lines, and it seems with a larger AC or a dual unit you could route boosted air into the intake. Any numbers for losses or gains, if someone has done this?
Yes the colder air will definitely help, BUT you have to power the air conditioner somehow. I guess the Dodge is set up for drag racing, so they might run the AC to get the air as cold as possible, and then turn it off for the actual run, and hope that the AC stayed cold for the 10s or so it would take to do a pass. For track racing, you'd have to run the AC all the time, and I think you'd loose more power to the AC than you'd gain from the colder air. If it did work then you'd see race cars running AC intakes, and as far as I know, none do. Oh, and it will also add a bit of weight (and complexity).
You are correct. Dodge did this with their "Demon" Challenger, but it's somewhat of a gimmick. It only applies to drag racing. In theory, you run the AC to get cold air, which gets routed to the intake. Once you go wide-open-throttle (WOT), your AC shuts off (as an accessory, it's belt-driven). The air is still cool enough for the few seconds it takes to run the strip, thus you get a small amount of cold air benefitting combustion. The thing is, air conditioners are already heavy, and this setup introduces further complexity (weight). A better solution is to simply install an intercooler, which adds weight, but is _substantially_ more efficient. Alternatively, AC, Power Steering, and any other accessories are typically the first things to go on a dedicated drag car in order to save weight.
Grab a mystery box - you never know what you'll get... mightycarmods.com/collections/multipacks/products/mystery-box
CHERYL'S Mystery Box.
i can listen to this dude educate for hours, no joke. compliments the MCM boys really well too
I agree. It's the same way with me and Mike from MotoIQ.
Your account is very old with that pfp
Yeah, the episodes on BCW where Benny goes to get his car tuned and Benny and Scotty end up talking for ages about cars are gold. I could listen to smart, articulate people taking about their area of expertise for hours.
Crushing teenagers +25 hp dreams one video at a time.
Truth hurts. Good lesson to learn early in life. I hope they appreciate what mcm had done for them.
They can paint the calipers and get that back, nbd
Thats why you get maaaad stickers
@@irishwristwatch2487 stickers are %1 more hp per slap.
You have to buy a system from a reputable company. Not some shit you put together yourself.
1 thing I learned from this video.....Scott is an absolute unit.
I love the see the dyno charts of the change in the power curve rather that the peak HP on a pod filter versus standard airbox
It's crazy that you guys have done this video for the third time now. It never changes
One of the things to consider is also doing dyno runs with the hood closed. I've seen some setups that could make more power on the dyno because the hood was open and it could pull in fresh air. But, with the hood closed it would either restrict the filter box, or made it pull in hot air. It's a good test since you don't normally drive with the hood open.
Yep...Gale Banks of Banks Engineering is adamant about this as well, do the runs with the hood closed...it makes the vehicle act like it was if it was on the actual road. A vital key is making sure you have enough air being blown at the front end of the vehicle to simulate the windforce as if the thing was moving down the road too.
Also a lot of places don’t have big fans blowing in like a simulated road also.
Like at trade school. Technically meant to tune the carb with filter off. My point to the Turtor was it doesn't run with the filter off
Thats because it has less airflow then actually driving. Doing a full pull in fourth gear all the way to limiter would be very high speed
@@nbrowser Not true, its missing a lot of air flow that you would have from the running the car to limiter in 4th gear
Loving these educational videos. Studying mechanical engineering so i can appreciate a good design and the details about things like intakes and suspension
I like how the recent videos have this extra content on the second channel, it makes the main video short and easy while giving more information on this channel if I want to hear it
Now can we see the tuning fork in the drivers seat of each of these subcompacts? I really want to see him try and fit. 😂
I find the better intakes on newer cars replace the end of the intake. My RamAir intake is sealed to the bonnet but gets more cold air from the grill using the existing channels. Definitely improved throttle response and noise is gnarly.
My last car had a pod filter that was from the OEM's performance division, but it replaced the factory air box lid with an adapter and lived in the stock air box itself.
Short answer, Yes. I tune / remap engines for a living. "Open Air Filters" in a closed Bonnet environment generally cause -4bhp loss. Even more than that in a long heat soak test. Then it can be over -10bhp. Just use a replacement panel filter guys !.
It all depends on the orginal air box and how you install these open air filters. Most poeple choice the cheap dumb ass root of sucking in all the hot air of the engine bay(Killing performance....). These days buy a 3D printer and print the exact box for it so only cold air can be sucked in(Bonus if you create extra ducts for more cold air here, for example create from the brake duct in your bumper a tube to your 3D printed air box increase the cold air comming to the box).
And only if you can defeat the same heat as the orginal air box you will see a improvement and if you can get it colder all kudos to you. But mostly its indeed better to stay orginal since these people will not take the time to fight this big problem with open air filters.
You probably know this to already but the performance increase if done correctly is not that big if the OEM manufacturer didn't fuck the orginal air box up for emissions or sounds reasons(Really small chance that you have a car with OEM filter box that sucks so much for this to outway a shitty install of a open air filter.).
Scotty is just such a legend. He is as educated and experienced AF and a nice guy to boot! Cheers boys.
Scott is a guy they really look up to
Literally
He's head and shoulders above the rest.
I just noticed how fekking tall he is! To be fair this is only the second video I've seen with him in it but he was by himself in the other.
What is he 0.00126263 miles tall?
Love my fully enclosed Cobb intake kit, got a ram air vent as well to get extra extra air 🥹
Love this series and collab with tuning fork 🦶 ⬆️
This explains why night time interstate driving you get far better fuel economy
Can't go wrong loosing power with those massive sound gains! 😂😂😂
dB > HP
💯
@@dbeaudoin80 honk power > horse power
I used to keep all factory air cleaner parts on all the cars I've owned. The first time I ever installed a short ram intake it was on a maroon 94 Honda Accord. The air cleaner was getting brittle and I was going to have to remove it to do maintenance. Before I did, just in case, i dropped by the junkyard and wandered up on a metal short ram from a Mitsubishi and a stumpy pod filter with some life left from another car. I bought the pipe and filter for only 7 US dollars. I kept it on hand in my parts pile for a while. The day came where I had to remove the stock air cleaner for maintenance. The plastic and rubber immediately cracked and ripped in my hands. After my maintenance was done I then had an open throttle body and no coupler/ appropriate clamp to just slap the junkyard pipe onto. I had a parts store like 3 miles away and no other way to safely get there. I took a pair of old clean cotton boxers and I used the stock clamp to hold it on the throttle body. I let the car drive itsself to the store. I didn't give it much throttle because I didn't want to blow a hole in the cotton and suck the boxers into the engine. Got to the store and grabbed up a cheap Spectre brand coupler to throw on. It was slow at the store so I told the teenage counter guy about what I did to get there and he came out and watched as I put it on in the parkinglot. We both had a laugh and it looked silly because the filter was a half sized stumpy filter but the thing that caught me off guard was the sound. THE SOUND. I loved it. I could hear more from the car. The car felt more responsive throttle wise and the sound to go with it was great. Later on I found that the air cleaners falling apart on 90's Hondas is extremely common. All but 1 of our Hondas we replaced the plastic with 7-35 dollar metal air cleaners. This last week that 1's air cleaner had a bracket fall apart so It's now a metal pipe as well. If you are someone that wants a bit of whistle and a bark you can hear in the cab get a cone filter with the conical valve bit in the end if you just need to put an air cleaner on to replace the old plastic but you don't want the extra noise get a cone filter with a flat front. Those are quiet. I like ditching the plastic and going to metal it just feels right and reliable. As far as any gains I like to think that I feel a difference on the Accords. Civics I don't notice too much. Ultimately changing out a major engine part on a Honda for a better part will give you more results than changing the air cleaner. However it gives you something fancy that you can see and hear to go with your other real upgrades that you've done with the car. For me it's just the personal Cherry on top of my work for myself to enjoy.
Scotty is a legend.
The K&N typhoon intake on my car works great. The sound is worth the money alone. The provide dyno charts which showed an improvement to power but I could honestly care less. The sound and intake whooshes are where its at.
The old NA EJ20’s get a massive flat spot in the rev range if you remove the big intake box coming off the throttle body. It was my introduction to intake importance 15 years ago 😅
Genuinely think you'd have been better off just changing the panel filter for a high flow one. Modern intake systems are generally far superior to anything you can buy off the shelf. There's a few different systems for my 208gti and in a comparison test, all the induction kits currently available lost plenty of power over stock and the k&n and pipercross panel filters had a marginal gain.
208 GTI ftw!
The induction note thou ❤beep beep 😂
I bought a car used with a cold air intake, the filter was located in the fender pulling cold air totally sepaerate from the engine bay, it sounded good not sure it added any horsepower, most modern cars have the inlet in the airstream anyway so it is already a cold air intake. The length and diameter of the intake is carefully considered by the automakers so if they are selling a performance car its likely they have it sorted out already.
Phew! I knew it 20 years ago. When I wacked a pod filter on my starlet, I knew the car sounded good but was down on power.
This reminds me of the cold air intake epsiode years ago
Based on this, Scotty is losing power by being so tall in the high altitude less dense air.
He has a tube in his pants to help pull in cold air
That was an epic explanation from Scotty.👍👍
Have you guys ever done a test on a propper boxed cold air ducted pod filter?
Not always right. Depends on the car to be honest. My Mazda MX5 k8 engine just responds better with the pod then a stock air box. I have reverted it back and forth and unfortunately it feels like a lug after 4000 rpm with a stock air box high panel filter. Nicer under 4000 rpm.... but feels like it's choked. With a greddy M Pod filter it lost power and felt sluggish. It's bigger then the SCA Pod filters and shape. With a cheap SCA pod filter it just revved freely and pulled past 4000 rpm to redline. Just felt smoother, better and not choking. Gets the revs up quick and performs IMO much better. I love my car better now. so much more fun
my K11 Micra had a pod filter sat right on top of the throttle body. Hard to loose power when you're starting with none! That's why Nuggets are soo cool.
Marty & Moog are about 1.8m tall right? So just how tall is Scotty??? Great content guys :)
Done many tests on a Fietsa ST180.
Stock Air Box for the win.
Something I’ve always wondered about, if you could incorporate a cooling coil from a small D/C fridge into the intake somehow would it lower the intake temp’s enough to make a difference? Hmm smells like a good video I’d love to see 👍
In some motorcycles, an exhaust system design has been used where, right after the header pipes, the exhaust transitions into a structure that incorporates a perforated inner tube wrapped in sound-absorbing material, which is then enclosed by an outer shell. This dampened section is followed by the actual mufflers.
I am planning to build a similar system for my car, as my preference is for minimal exhaust noise while retaining substantial power. My question is: does this type of exhaust design reduce engine performance? I believe it shouldn’t have much of an impact since the system remains a fully free-flowing setup that effectively reduces sound levels.
Sounds like Scotty got himself a Mclaren
The first thing I did when I got my ST was tear the airbox out and throw a Mishimoto pod on it. The obnoxious speed snail noises far outweighed any lost performance and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
I've had a £800 carbon enclosed kit and a £50 ebay short ram kit and the IAT was only really higher when sat in traffic or crawling. Can you please do some IAT temps on a moving car at different speeds and compare them.
The info the car scene needed to here with the nuance we wanted.
What if I 'rerouted' the AC system to cool the air intake or intercooler. Am I likely to see less gain than parasitic loss from the AC or...?
Regardless of whether they gain or lose power, the fact is they allow much more dirt and debris into your engine which will shorten its lifespan. Look up "ISO 5011 Duramax air filter test" if you don't believe me.
A stock paper air filter allowed 0.4 grams of dirt through the filter, and took 60 minutes to clog up. The K&N filter allowed 7 grams of dirt to pass and clogged up in 24 minutes. So not only do you get worse filtration, you also have to clean the filter regularly otherwise that 1hp gain turns into a 10hp loss lol.
I had a '93 C**ic Si many moons ago and did a hot air intake on it. Ended up selling the intake to the next biggest fool and put a drop in K&N in the stock airbox!
Those oiled cotton filters let in far more dust than a paper filter. I race a car in budget endurance racing and I send in an oil sample for analysis after each race. I was getting silica numbers higher than normal, so I switched back to an OEM intake and the silica basically went away.
Mad question lads, can you run an intercooler on a naturally aspirated car to produce colder air ? Sorry for the edit but just to clarify, if you have no space in the bay and have to run your pod hot.
Using a conventional air to air intercooler will not lower the intake air temp. The air passing through the intercooler fins is at the same temperature as the air going in through the pipe. The reason you run an intercooler after a turbo is because of how hot the air gets when compressed. So in that case the outside air is much cooler. I would like to see a test with a water to air intercooler with chilled water on a NA engine.
If you have an issue of the car sucking in hot air from the engine, an intercooler would help slightly with that.
But you'd also be adding restrictions in your airflow and throttle response so any minute gain from it would be lost from the downside.
Solution is to just put your intake where it can get fresh cold air.
@@MrManBuzz thanks for the reply, I was just wondering if an intercooler would counteract the bad/restricted placement of the pod
@@the-bat-man You'd have to run more piping to do that so you'd be better off just ducting outside air to the intake one way or another. :)
NEXT EPPISODE…. Are hot air intakes better if you paint them BLACK
I keep seeing an intake for a Caprice PPV/ Holden Statesman that pulls “cool” air over the top of the radiator, expensive but it seem like it would be a hot air intake
or you can combine the best of both worlds - factory air routing with a K&N, (insert other performance brand) PANEL filter in the airbox.
Someone needs to show this video to basically every Honda Facebook group.
Turbo probably impacts all that theory. Tuned intake resonance goes out the window with a compressor turbine chopping up any pressure waves. Also heating of the intake air by the turbo probably is worse than a pod filter picking up warmer air. Hopefully the FMIC will cool it all back down anyway.
You can get power with velocity stack that goes trough the headlight but again...water and dirt will directly go into the engine.
The Planet of The Tuning Apes is going bananas in a parallel universe right now boys. The apes will always worship the pod air filter as if it's some sort of cooling machine. People who don't understand "heat soak" will never believe the truth of losing power with a "cold air intake". I love how Moog calls it a "hot air intake" @4:03. Long time fan
better to use stock system and just connect a hose from your cabin AC under dash box to your air engine intakes before the filters of course for a true cold air intake...cheaper too
So what about a long ass pipe to grab some cold air from behind the headlight? One downside might be weight compared to plastic intake parts.
Can you guys buy some dry ice, and put it somewhere close to air filter, what about then? I imagine could be good for drag racing?
Question so I’ve just slapped a podfilter on my br9 liberty/legacy gt and it now bogs at 2.5k rpm what have I done wrong 😂
Would that intake work better if you added heat insulation wrap to it?
Does the size of the airfilter matters??
As usual, Tuning Fork brings the maths.
Can we get a look at this twin turbo SS ute with a snork
Guessing a Landy or a Silverado?
Not everyone that uses a pod filter or a cold air intake, does it for performance. You can't deny they look better than the stock intake, even if performance is negligible.
As 62 year old. Car nut. Raced Rx 3 at Bathurst.
Hj van with 202 stroker.
300hp.. um.
Pod filters are a Huge Wank..
The air that comes into front of car is all you get. A pod filter isn't going to change it..
How about carb engine Scotty? I feel the only logical thing to do is put a twin carb on the my 323 with a tasteful bonnet scope to get cold air?
Okay but what if I rout my intake through the firewall and into the cabin so it can suck in air-conditioned air
Me love long time, those shiitake boxes!!!
Do POD FILTERS Make You Lose Power? - Depends on the car, the cars intake system from factory, the elevation at which you live at ( yes this matters), and the quality of the filter. Something like a Sprint air filter for a Super Bike, is time and time again proven to increase power figures. However it is also well known to be a TRACK ONLY filter. Barely "Filters" anything, K&N are bad for this too, but they filter a LOT more than a Sprint... So if you are daily driving you car.. or Bike.,, Highly Recommended against. However a Decent one with an intake tube system can obviously help get more air in faster. Whether the car/bike and ECU can do anything with that is another story completely.
But isn’t a stock air meter only going to register air is there not how much?
Is that the Swift's muffler hanging on the wall behind them?
Have you guys ever worked on a VY commodore
There should be some part or device than can chill the air as it goes into the motor.
It used to be a joke years ago, using the air conditioner to do this... But then Dodge actually does exactly this, with one of the Hellcat-derived models :D
@@eTiMaGo fair dinkum hey. I've always thought of collecting the cold water from your aircon drain and spraying/misting it on the intercooler.
Just realised the headlights on the swift are mismatched - surely a cash vs trash headlight option
I was disappointed you didnt hold the Peugeot on limiter with no filter 😂 it dose sound good 💯🤙
Just removed mine off my miata, runs a lot better especially at low rpms. I've been a fool!
Tuning Fork should have his own cooking channel..
What about the length of the tube does that matter?
Thanks mates!
Huge pod filter here! Not interested in performance it’s all on out the noise for me 😂
All facts 👌 but did you take into account intake pipe length pre throttle body ? I did testing on this year's ago using a vacuum gauge and found the longer the pipe pre throttle body the more vacuum is made leading me to believe that's a restriction. Anything over 30 cm long at the same size as throttle body starts to create restriction I could be wrong I'm only a mechanic not an engineer 😂👍
@@sinAnon6689 no even a turbo has to suck harder to overcome that same effect if it's intake is to long there for still a restriction how ever slight. Just look at the highest hp drag cars not much before the turbo if anything at all
So, what you are saying is... I should install my pod filter in a refrigerator?
tbh i thought the maf would relocate to the bumper so when i saw how it was mounted and that tube i was like ummm wait a min.
What if i put a snorkel ? I will lose power or win power?
Hope we get a tech report on every 20+ episode this series ✌🏼
How tall is the tuning sasquatch?!
i directed the aircon ducts to the air box an gained 100hp now when i want a bit of boost i flick the ac on
Location is everything
The longer and more bends a tube has, the less flow it get. Best option is one bend and just create a barrier (shield) from the hot side with a hose driving cold air to it.
Tuning fork ftw!
Cheap pod filter,the metal round thingy in the center of the pod will come loose,and your intake will suck it straight to the engine
Thats why better to use stock filter than cheap pod filter
You'll lose power but you'll gain fuel economy imo. Everytime I hypermile Poland to England Install a pod filter just above the transmission. I can get an extra 60 miles or so to a tank of fuel. When you do the trip often and use 2 tanks of fuel for the journey one way it pays off in the long run when you're not chasing an extra HP. I want to know the science why I get more fuel economy with a hot intake as appose to a stock air box. I know a small bit from HP academy days but I never got too far into it to understand fully why. I've covered so many miles in my civic for nearly 8 years so I know it like the back of my hand. Maybe it's something to do with the vtec-e I just don't know
ok so ... for the Suzuki : pod filter on the right fog light (headlight pls make it happen). annnnnd for the Peugeot : hood air vent (MAKE IT HAAAAPPPEEENNN). Mmmmmmhh fresh air!
probably want it on the left side considering that's where the intake routes
Awesome guys, you look like naughty little children standing next to Scotty.
I love Scottie
OK, so obviously they can't cover every single minutiae of detail about air intake systems. One thing that I learned the hard way that I'd like to warn anybody here if they don't already know is you never put an oiled filter on a car that has a math sensor. The reason that is is no matter how good the filter is if you have to oil it at some point particles of that oil will build up on the map sensor and destroy it. I learned this the hard way and it costs me between 400 and $700 to get the part.
Does a math sensor detect when you're doing maths? 😂
I've always wondered I know cold air is better and makes more power. That being said over here it gets -10c in winter and peaks at 40c in the summer. And I've never really felt a difference in power in my car. Maybe it's because my car doesn't have a lot of power to begin with. Or maybe it just happens so gradually that I don't notice. But if someone could explain I'm really interested.
Cold air packs in more oxygen molecules. Oxygen is an oxidizer, which blends with fuel in an optimized ratio to be ignited for combustion. Taking that same ratio, but increasing the amount of oxygen, allows you to burn more fuel, which results in increased combustion.
Air gets denser as it gets colder, the molecules pack together closer and closer so the same volume of air will contain more oxygen to burn fuel with - just to clarify that first bit.
Why cant we modify an oxygen tank to hookup to the air intake and slowly increase the oxygen content of the air????
Cold, humid air... Can't beat it.
Thank you!🙌👌🙌
Would it be possible to force feed the air from the climate system into the intake? I know Dodge did something along those lines, and it seems with a larger AC or a dual unit you could route boosted air into the intake. Any numbers for losses or gains, if someone has done this?
Yes the colder air will definitely help, BUT you have to power the air conditioner somehow.
I guess the Dodge is set up for drag racing, so they might run the AC to get the air as cold as possible, and then turn it off for the actual run, and hope that the AC stayed cold for the 10s or so it would take to do a pass.
For track racing, you'd have to run the AC all the time, and I think you'd loose more power to the AC than you'd gain from the colder air. If it did work then you'd see race cars running AC intakes, and as far as I know, none do.
Oh, and it will also add a bit of weight (and complexity).
@@phuzz00 Yeah, weight to performance not worth it likely.
You are correct. Dodge did this with their "Demon" Challenger, but it's somewhat of a gimmick. It only applies to drag racing.
In theory, you run the AC to get cold air, which gets routed to the intake. Once you go wide-open-throttle (WOT), your AC shuts off (as an accessory, it's belt-driven). The air is still cool enough for the few seconds it takes to run the strip, thus you get a small amount of cold air benefitting combustion.
The thing is, air conditioners are already heavy, and this setup introduces further complexity (weight). A better solution is to simply install an intercooler, which adds weight, but is _substantially_ more efficient. Alternatively, AC, Power Steering, and any other accessories are typically the first things to go on a dedicated drag car in order to save weight.
It’s different with forced induction motors