Ive got a 2011 Colorado with the 5 cylinder engine. I bought it with 200,000 miles. It currently has 231,000 miles. No check engine light or brake light or anything. I do all my own maintenance. Great truck. I think 2011 was a good year for chevy. I also had a 2011 cruze that got around 230,000 miles before it died.
Bought a 2005 unit with 60,000 miles on it in October of '08 and knock wood, it's been a good one. At almost 290,000 miles I've serviced the transmission fluid/filter once, one water pump, 3 or 4 batteries, one alternator, two thermostats, both tie rod ends, all the U joints one time each., a radiator, belt tensioner and normal tire replacement. Can't complain! 👍
2007 5 cylinder 131,000 miles and never had any of these problems. Haven't really had any issues. Only have had to replace the thermostat once in 2021 and one window motor. Has been a great truck.
I had an '05 with the 5-cylinder engine. The blower motor resistor failed, a small exhaust heat shield rusted loose and when it got to about 60,000 miles the ABS light would come on every so often. A pretty good truck overall. Driving a 2015 3.6L LT now.
Do you remember how often the blower motor resistor failed on you? I own an 05 Colorado, like yours, as well. Just blew my 2nd one this year and had to replace
07 Crew cab, had all of those plus the enclave code. Replaced the front left hub and sensor to fix the abs. Cut off the heat shield and a new gas cap solved the evap code. I haven’t fixed the resistor yet because it only affects the 3rd speed and I still have 1, 2 and 4 to use.
My first truck was an 05 Chevy Colorado I got in 2010. My truck still runs like it's new and I will keep that truck until it is done. But this video did help me know what to look out for, but other than that, I'll always love my 05 Colorado.
My 2009 Colorado had this problem with the resistor for the blower motor and the wiring harness shorting out. I found out there is also a problem with the Grounding block on the passenger side fender well shorting out and causing the resistor to burn out. I solved this problem by removing the poorly designed grounding block and soldering the wires together and using a copper ground lug from a household breaker panel to secure the wires back to the fender well.
The valve problems were mostly an issue on the 2004-2007 trucks, the ones with the 2.8 and 3.5 liter engines. The later model trucks with the 2.9 liter and 3.7 liter avoided it. The evap canister is one gremlin on the fuel system, another one is the evap valve under the intake manifold. It's a miserable pain in the ass to reach, and the big symptom pointing to that valve is when you fill the truck up with gas, it acts like it's flooded when you try and start it. One issue I had with my 2010 is a cracked exhaust manifold. I thought I needed a gasket, but when I took the manifold off it broke in half right between the #2 and #3 runners. A stainless steel pacesetter header with the catalyst was cheaper than the factory manifold, so now my little 4-cylinder plain-jane truck has a header pipe on it.
Great video but my 09 with 230,000 miles has suffered none of these issues. I’ve had a couple bad front wheel hubs and an ABS light. But again, I do watch many of your videos and have gained great knowledge from them.
2012 with 194k miles. None of these issues. Replaced a few leaking seals and gaskets over the years, a new belt tensioner a few months ago, and replaced brake light switch. Other than that, just regular wear and tear items replaced as needed.
211k miles, i had to replace the evap valve, cat. converter, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket. Now rear wheel cylinders, serpintine belt, tensioner, idler pully. It's been a good truck all in all.
We had a fleet of these about 8 of them. Ranging from 04/ 06 we didn’t have hardly any major issues. However we couldn’t keep all the lights on them on for more than a couple days , I swear we were replacing bulbs on all of them constantly , as soon as you would replace one another would go out , tail lights headlights , back up lights , blinkers constantly changing them on every single truck. We bought 2 of them that were 2012’s later on that don’t seem to have the electrical issues the old ones had. When we bought one though I think it had 80 thousand miles on it and about as soon as we drove out the lot check engine light came on. Was the timing chain , dealership replaced it drove it couple years with no issues until some teenager we hired was texting on his phone and ran right into a light pole in a parking lot totaling the truck… he’s no longer employed here lmao
I own a first gen 2005 Colorado. Never had any of these issues. I had to replace my thermostat at around 30 thousand miles, rear differential started to leak at around 50 thousand, intake gasket started to go at 125 thousand, and recently replaced the break light switch at 150 thousand.
My brakelights work, but the tailights only come on when in auto mode? I recently got around this issue by covering the censor on the dash so that the auto lights run always like its night time 🤣
Had my 06 since 11/05 and had really no issues. Except the fuse box. Had to take it apart and squeeze the pins, other than that it runs great. Over 200,000 miles, with just a water pump and a al aluminum radiator, cause i knew the srock one wouldnt last forever. I wouldn't get rid of my truck for anything in the world, I love it and the wifey does as well
2008 Colorado bought it 4 years ago with 89k miles currently at 118k ( mostly highway miles) I am the third owner. I had issues with my thermostat at around 100k miles, blower motor resister also at 100k, both passenger side windows stoped working at 110k, at 115k my fuel pump module assembly had to be replaced. I’ve also experienced “sticky” fuel gauges. Also an EVAP leak however that was a cheap fix Other issue is frame rust however I drive in an area that gets salted in the winter heavily which I’m sure caused that.
My 2005 GMC Canton has 300,000 miles. The only trouble I’ve ever had was a noisy timing chain at 200,000 and a few electrical shorts. If you see a GMC Canyon or Chevy Colorado around 200k miles, call a mechanic to inspect it cause they’re beasts!
Your spot on, my heater will only blow on high, egr tripping service engine light, and my thermostat won't move at all from the bottom lol, Thank you so so much
On my 2009 Chevy Colorado, I replaced the window regulator, blower motor resistor, did a coolant flush at 150,000 miles, and replaced the clutch. Everything eise is working great.
I have a 2007 I bought 2 years ago. I had the infamous passlock issue, replaced the ignition switch and no more problems, and I had multiple brake light failures. The socket the bulb goes into would melt from the heat of the bulb. After replacing the sockets on both sides, I put in LED bulbs and no more issues!
@@jessicatucker4720 I think he is referring to the problem where some people would try to start their truck only to have it passlock light turn on and the truck wouldn't think you had an invalid key. Sometimes when driving you would see the passlock light suddenly turn on and flash. Sometimes it would stall the truck and when you tried to restart it, it wouldn't turn over and the passlock light would illuminate.
I have 2011 with 3.7 5-cylinder engine. 110,000 miles. I had some wires get worn out around 50,000 miles causing an electric short that sent my engine into low-power mode. Next problem I had was fuel pressure sensor failing. Then I had a belt tensioner wearing into some front part of the engine causing a big rattle. I got that fixed and the rattle went away. Other than that everything's fine, except the rust that is creeping around on the frame. I've been using NH Oil Undercoating treatments and their rust converter to help. Do I ever have to replace the timing chain?
Rebuilt the transmission on my wifes 08 colorado this year, it was at 190000 when it started slipping (6 months and no issues so I guess I did it right lol), and tomorrow putting in a new fuel sending unit due to fuel gauge giving up. Other than that good little truck.
Have an 08 5 cyl 85k miles, replaced the EVAP myself, and thermostat because it was shutting off the AC, and the wiper motor. Those were things I could do myself and save $100s. Also drilled holes so the blinkers would drain, and sealed the rear 3rd stop light so it wouldn't leak down the inside of the back window any more. The AC speed quit working on 3 so I am looking at replacing the resistor as mentioned in the article. Overall this is a big LEGO vehicle. Easy to snap apart and together. Bought it new. It's a good truck. There, you asked.
It's not ultimately the blower regulator or fan speed; it's the fact that there are no cabin filters installed in ANY of these trucks. The leaves and dirt that collects in the blower motor malfunctions because of that. The back pressure on the fan causes the overload and shorts out the wires at the quick disconnect points.
Well hell....This video answered several : "S.O.B.!! Why doses it not work!!!" questions I have had regarding my 234,000+ mile 5cyl Colorado Z71 "beater truck" I purchased two years ago.
2012 with almost 250,000 miles! Other than the normal wear-and-tear parts, I've replaced the blower motor resistor and the MAF sensor. The A/C issues stem from a bad ground - GM uses a grounding "splice pack" (one on each inner fenderwell). The one for the A/C is behind the air filter box. Just cut it out of the equation, and put a crimp-on connector - problem solved!
Had every single problem shown in the video. Had a 2012. When the truck worked, it was great. But one day the truck eventually killed itself when a valve came loose. This of course happened 2 months after I spent 2 grand getting the timing chain replaced. After owning trucks from Chrysler, Ford, and GM I have to say, sorry America, I've gone Oriental.
I have had a great truck and upgraded to a 4x4 as I speak. Sorry dude you probably missed a deal. Watch Scotty he is a Toyota fan and talks great on these trucks.
2008 four-banger here. I've had the EVAP vent valve issue. Instead of the level sensor, my original fuel pump quit at approximately 93,500 miles. My windshield washer pump is questionable. Nothing about the blower motor resistor or the valve seats yet.
If you need to replace a fuel pump or sender unit, the bed comes off with 6 15mm bolts. Get a friend to help you lift it off then you can access it from the top. Took me less than an hour to replace and I didn’t have to drop the tank
The only problem I had on this list is the problem with the blower motor resister. I mostly had electrical problems such as the power doors and power windows suddenly stopped working and for some reason after a few days, they would start working again. Other times I would have the theft deterrent light turn on or start flashing while driving and sometimes the truck would suddenly stall when this happens and when I try to restart it, nothing would happen. It appeared to think my key was invalid. Then after an hour or so, it would start right up without any problems. I also had other electrical issues such as all the headlights and side marker lights would stop working on one side. I would replace bulbs thinking they were burned out but it wasn't the bulbs. Suddenly, the problem would stop after a few days. My tail lights would also stop working and there was two recalls on this but it still didn't work. Glad when I traded it in for a Tacoma.
I should add that I did take my truck to the dealer and with the power window problem and one side of my lights not working they would replace the BCM module and it would seem to fix it for a while. Most of the time it was under warranty but when the warranty expired I found out it costs $500 to replace this thing and it sounds like the dealer had no idea what was causing the electric problems.
Good video! My dad has a 06 Colorado. The wheel well lights stay on as well as the radio! What is the problem? It's very frustrating! I'm keeping his until I solved the problems with mine!
Its funny, the 3.7 gets so much hate for reliability yet the handful guys i know that own them all have over 200k miles and going strong. Mine has 301k miles and never anything serious. Im vigilant about upkeep though ao maybe as always, thats the key!
I must have the wval issue as you mentioned. Like you said....changing light is on but truck seems to drive well. Thanks for the tip. Much appreciated 👍👊
If you truck is in passlock, keep the key turned on in the accessory position for 10 minutes. When the lock/car light on the dash stops flashing, turn the key to off then to ignition the truck will start.
#2 options: if you can't stand the pass lock. Do what i did. Next time the truck is running cut the pass lock wire under the steering column and never deal with the BS again.
I drive a 05 Colorado that fuel sensor is my biggest problem. I have had it die (only at low speeds) because it "ran out of gas" at a quarter of a tank multiple times.
I have an 06, I recommend you do what I do and reset your odometer Everytime you fill up. I go about 300 miles on a tank then fill up. My fuel gauge works properly but just in case, I always have my trip odometer!
I have the same problem but always suspect that was the pump. I never hear anything about fuel level sensor but i want to know more about that. I already got a new pump so if its there another part that i need to change i better know.
I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado and have had issues where are the reduced power showed up in the truck stalled. It wouldn’t start if it was cold but when it warmed up it would start again and be fine. I ran a check on the computer and it said that there was a fuel level sensor issue. Needless to say I’m bewildered. I can’t use the truck while it’s cool and have to wait for the warm weather. I’m not even sure if the issue is a fuel level sensor or it might be something else.
My 2004 colorado z71 package was a nightmare. Biggest piece of crap I’ve ever owned . At 20 thousand miles the head had to be replaced. The four wheel drive system had about everything in it replaced over a 4 year period. This truck spend more time in the shop then on the road. I still have that truck but it is a spare vehicle. Don’t ever really drive it anymore. Truck still looks like new inside out.but I’ll never buy another chevy after this truck
I got a '04 with 362,000 miles on it. Lots of issues but until this week, it was very reliable. I think the PCM is bad. Second one, the first one started going bad after driving like 6 hours in a tropical downpour on I-10 in Louisiana and then up into Mississippi.
This video is boggus... he didn't mention overheating issue and the security system fault. The security system causes the truck to lock itself out and won't start. The overheating issue is still a mystery I've yet to figure out. Over 50% of colorado's have these 2 issues in there lifetime's, so it's ridiculous he didn't mention them....🤦♂️🤦♂️
ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS should be number 6 on this list I've had to replace my PCM (2005) 3 times and I know other people who have had to change them too thankfully its a lot cheaper to replace them now first change out cost me $900, now you can buy them online programmed for $150
Was this due to the truck not starting? I have a 2009 and sometimes it won't start...then I take the key out of the ignition and wait 10 minutes and then it usually starts. Sometimes I have to do this twice.
what about the exhaust manifolds that break or better yet the variable valve timing solenold not only have i had to replace that on many customers trucks have had to do it twice on my own 04 model
One thing to add in with the resistor. I went through a few of them before discovering I had a bad ground. Its located in a splice pack tucked in by the air filter box. I took care of that and never blew another resistor.
@@joshbayly7462 No, it only seemed to be the ground for the blower that was having issues. So I pulled that wire out, and grounded it to another spot by itself.
have 05 colorado. Rear drivers side running light won’t light up but brake and reverse light do. front passenger blinker doesn’t work, but rear does and blinks fast like bulb is bad but all have been changed and issues persist. any idea what to try? fuses are good as well.
I know an old lady who worked the assembly lines in Detroit with a 2.5 4 and she still gets speeding tickets. Maybe she sits too close to the steering wheel. It certainly had more pep than the 2.7 F150 work truck but it probably has a company limiter. 12 mpg with A/C isn't enough for me to give up my Dakota 4.6 even though the best I can do is 16mpg. The last time I drove the work truck it was stuck in limp mode because it wouldn't pull more than 1000rpm in any gear, so I had to turn it in for service. Many thanks to 1A Auto for the best prices on parts! ✌
+donyboy73 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I had the same replace the front wheel bearings they come with sensors go ahead and replace brakes also. You have to pull the bearings to replace the rotors so do it at the same time.
Rotting windshield cowl. Roof molding comes loose. Ditto that blower motor resistor! Rough idle caused by carbon buildup on throttle body air intake. Freaking cup holder brackets break off! Blown brake light prevents cruise control from working. Four door crew cab has the industry’s shortest bed, and no pockets in side rails.
Here in Michigan the frame is a problem. I've had a 04 and 08 colorado frame rust and break on me. Everywhere I look I see the same issue with other first gen colorados around here. My parents own a 02 trailblazer and an 05 silverado and their frames are fine. It's something to do with the first gen frames that cause failure.
I have an 09 and I have the fuel sensor issue. Usually if I get to a quarter of a tank and then get gas it says tank empty. I usually yell at it and say no you’re full shut up. After driving a bit, (knock on wood) it corrects itself.
Yep, blower motor resistor. Evap vent valve. Gas cap. Fuel pump, washer pump.. have all those and need a new computer. Every time it rains it's a surprise as to what's going to happen. Blinker just stays on, windshield wipers stay on, hazards on etc. Oh and when its cold..it wont start the 1st time then the security crap kicks in so you gotta wait 10 minutes to start it. Still, I like my 04 Colorado, just annoying at times.
Well I'm planning to rebuild my 2.9L engine soon but I want to do upgrades better than OEM stock and still pass smog only that I can think of is Forge H-beam steel connecting rods and Forge flat top pistons and moly pistons rings and what else can I do to improve it to make is bullet proof please send me some recommendations
Timing chain is one of the biggest , most prevalent problems on this truck. Mine stretched at 45k . It took about 20 hours to replace it. I also replaced the water pump , because it,and about 50 other,items,have to be removed to swap the chains. I don't think I would do it again...and certainly not without a lift ! Parts were not overly expensive,but labor time...uggh ! This is no job for the average mechanic. Chevy engineering is garbage !!! Definitely my last Chevy product .
I've got a 2012, and I've noticed that if you don't keep the grounding wire unit clean, located just behind the air filter box ( wondering why they put it there ), the blower motor won't work or works periodically.
2005, replaced thermostat a few times. The resistor issue, seems to more be an issue of crappy connectors. I have had them replaced multiple times, the issue always comes back. I soldered some wires together, and currently i only get 4 setting usually, and I have to open or slam the glove box or jiggle wires to get it to work sometimes 😭
I have an issue with my 2006 Chevy Colorado. It won’t start when it’s cold, and If it does sometimes stalls out with a reduced power showing up on the dash, but it seems to be OK when it’s warm weather in the summer. I checked the code and it said PO 461 fuel level sensor and also PO 601. It is possible to let a mechanic change out the fuel level sensor or does a dealer have to reset any computer connections.
I am having trouble with the p0601 code on my '04. I've done a bunch of stuff, but still get no start or start stall and the code when it is cool out. 60 this morning no running, just after lunch, it started up and runs nicely. The truck is just like me, don't like mornings and cold weather. I am retired, but I need my truck. I am going to work on the grounds again, and then maybe order a reman PCM. I got 362,000 miles on it. Time for a new one?
2007 Canyon 3.7L here with 114k miles. Warped rotors have been the norm. Only problem on the list it's had is the evap issue. Was fixed under warranty around 50k miles (emissions warranty is 80k miles). Ignition replaced at 70k miles. Timing chain started rattling on cold startup around 100k miles. Not looking forward to that repair $$$$. It's been a solid truck overall. Can't complain. I hope to get another 100k miles out of it.
I replaced my front rotors with some cross drilled/slotted rotors almost 2 years ago and thankfully I have not had issues. I did have to replace the pads because the ones that came with the rotors ended up making a lot of noise after a few months even tho they were mostly new.
I can't believe there is an engine issue with the 5 cylinder, that doesn't also affect the 4 cylinder, as well as the 6 cylinder in the Chevy Trailblazer, since they are all Atlas engines, manufactured in the same way.
Thanks, good overviews…. But……….Ultimately still on one (with CANYON 2007/4 CYL )Problem:: crank engine, *& NO START OCCASIONALLY, ETC. Interestingly, just got a new BATTERY & , NEW Alternator from Shop?…..Also, Still,, working on FAN STOP random Speeds 3 & 4( just replaced FAN Resistor with Orielly (CHINESE )part… I am WAITING to do: ON SHOP suggestion for Fan Motor replacement……..
Will never change that again. Changed a heating core in chevy corsica and 4got to tighten hose sand fixed that.didnt know if u do a pressure test but ended up blowing a freezer plug right off the engine.Never ever again
I dunno why the mpg is so bad on them. Isn’t that the point is buying a small truck?? I have a 1988 S10 with 4 cylinder 5 speed and it gets almost 30mpg on the highway. But it’s a nice classic now and I don’t want to wear it out as daily driver. I had it restored to new again. My dad bought it new in 1988. So I looked into colorados and wasn’t impressed with the mpg they get
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2004 Colorado. 300 miles when I bought it, 411 K now.
Replaced the blower motor resistor but no drive train issues at all.
Love the truck!!
Ive got a 2011 Colorado with the 5 cylinder engine. I bought it with 200,000 miles. It currently has 231,000 miles. No check engine light or brake light or anything. I do all my own maintenance. Great truck. I think 2011 was a good year for chevy. I also had a 2011 cruze that got around 230,000 miles before it died.
Bought a 2005 unit with 60,000 miles on it in October of '08 and knock wood, it's been a good one. At almost 290,000 miles I've serviced the transmission fluid/filter once, one water pump, 3 or 4 batteries, one alternator, two thermostats, both tie rod ends, all the U joints one time each., a radiator, belt tensioner and normal tire replacement. Can't complain! 👍
2007 5 cylinder 131,000 miles and never had any of these problems. Haven't really had any issues. Only have had to replace the thermostat once in 2021 and one window motor. Has been a great truck.
I had an '05 with the 5-cylinder engine. The blower motor resistor failed, a small exhaust heat shield rusted loose and when it got to about 60,000 miles the ABS light would come on every so often. A pretty good truck overall. Driving a 2015 3.6L LT now.
Do you remember how often the blower motor resistor failed on you? I own an 05 Colorado, like yours, as well. Just blew my 2nd one this year and had to replace
07 Crew cab, had all of those plus the enclave code. Replaced the front left hub and sensor to fix the abs. Cut off the heat shield and a new gas cap solved the evap code. I haven’t fixed the resistor yet because it only affects the 3rd speed and I still have 1, 2 and 4 to use.
220 thousand miles and only owner and haven’t had any of these issues.
Bought one with 224xxx, seems to run great but engine light it's on.
Gotta check that..
I have 223,000 miles. And I've had only 2 of these problems. Blower motor and gas cap.
Mine has 175000 miles, check engine light is on, but it runs great even with a giant bed topper, I wonder what it could be.
365,000 miles and I’ve had a few. Lol
Im the second owner of my 2012 colorado, 140k miles. Ive had 2 of the problems he’s talking about and i also had to replace the starter.
I’ve had all these problems but still definitely my favorite truck
My first truck was an 05 Chevy Colorado I got in 2010. My truck still runs like it's new and I will keep that truck until it is done. But this video did help me know what to look out for, but other than that, I'll always love my 05 Colorado.
I would make sure the grounds are good.
I'm looking at a 09 2.9 Colorado currently, 1 owner/60k miles, i think i'm gunna pull the trigger on it
My 2009 Colorado had this problem with the resistor for the blower motor and the wiring harness shorting out. I found out there is also a problem with the Grounding block on the passenger side fender well shorting out and causing the resistor to burn out. I solved this problem by removing the poorly designed grounding block and soldering the wires together and using a copper ground lug from a household breaker panel to secure the wires back to the fender well.
The valve problems were mostly an issue on the 2004-2007 trucks, the ones with the 2.8 and 3.5 liter engines. The later model trucks with the 2.9 liter and 3.7 liter avoided it.
The evap canister is one gremlin on the fuel system, another one is the evap valve under the intake manifold. It's a miserable pain in the ass to reach, and the big symptom pointing to that valve is when you fill the truck up with gas, it acts like it's flooded when you try and start it.
One issue I had with my 2010 is a cracked exhaust manifold. I thought I needed a gasket, but when I took the manifold off it broke in half right between the #2 and #3 runners. A stainless steel pacesetter header with the catalyst was cheaper than the factory manifold, so now my little 4-cylinder plain-jane truck has a header pipe on it.
I had the same problem with my 2012 chevy colorado. My manifold broke right on the middle😅.
Great video but my 09 with 230,000 miles has suffered none of these issues. I’ve had a couple bad front wheel hubs and an ABS light. But again, I do watch many of your videos and have gained great knowledge from them.
2004 Colorado.Mine constantly had electrical problems.
Tired of it.Never again.
Bought a Tacoma.
Love it.
2012 with 194k miles. None of these issues. Replaced a few leaking seals and gaskets over the years, a new belt tensioner a few months ago, and replaced brake light switch. Other than that, just regular wear and tear items replaced as needed.
211k miles, i had to replace the evap valve, cat. converter, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket. Now rear wheel cylinders, serpintine belt, tensioner, idler pully. It's been a good truck all in all.
We had a fleet of these about 8 of them. Ranging from 04/ 06 we didn’t have hardly any major issues. However we couldn’t keep all the lights on them on for more than a couple days , I swear we were replacing bulbs on all of them constantly , as soon as you would replace one another would go out , tail lights headlights , back up lights , blinkers constantly changing them on every single truck. We bought 2 of them that were 2012’s later on that don’t seem to have the electrical issues the old ones had. When we bought one though I think it had 80 thousand miles on it and about as soon as we drove out the lot check engine light came on. Was the timing chain , dealership replaced it drove it couple years with no issues until some teenager we hired was texting on his phone and ran right into a light pole in a parking lot totaling the truck… he’s no longer employed here lmao
I own a first gen 2005 Colorado. Never had any of these issues. I had to replace my thermostat at around 30 thousand miles, rear differential started to leak at around 50 thousand, intake gasket started to go at 125 thousand, and recently replaced the break light switch at 150 thousand.
You replace the brake lights before or after the recall?
GM fought that recall for years.
My brakelights work, but the tailights only come on when in auto mode? I recently got around this issue by covering the censor on the dash so that the auto lights run always like its night time 🤣
Had my 06 since 11/05 and had really no issues. Except the fuse box. Had to take it apart and squeeze the pins, other than that it runs great. Over 200,000 miles, with just a water pump and a al aluminum radiator, cause i knew the srock one wouldnt last forever. I wouldn't get rid of my truck for anything in the world, I love it and the wifey does as well
2008 Colorado bought it 4 years ago with 89k miles currently at 118k ( mostly highway miles) I am the third owner. I had issues with my thermostat at around 100k miles, blower motor resister also at 100k, both passenger side windows stoped working at 110k, at 115k my fuel pump module assembly had to be replaced. I’ve also experienced “sticky” fuel gauges. Also an EVAP leak however that was a cheap fix Other issue is frame rust however I drive in an area that gets salted in the winter heavily which I’m sure caused that.
My 2005 GMC Canton has 300,000 miles. The only trouble I’ve ever had was a noisy timing chain at 200,000 and a few electrical shorts. If you see a GMC Canyon or Chevy Colorado around 200k miles, call a mechanic to inspect it cause they’re beasts!
Your spot on, my heater will only blow on high, egr tripping service engine light, and my thermostat won't move at all from the bottom lol, Thank you so so much
On my 2009 Chevy Colorado, I replaced the window regulator, blower motor resistor, did a coolant flush at 150,000 miles, and replaced the clutch. Everything eise is working great.
2005 with
Look up the swap out fix with a Hummer H2.
@@johnhopkins6565 Did you mean the H3?
I have a 2007 I bought 2 years ago. I had the infamous passlock issue, replaced the ignition switch and no more problems, and I had multiple brake light failures. The socket the bulb goes into would melt from the heat of the bulb. After replacing the sockets on both sides, I put in LED bulbs and no more issues!
What is the passlock issue? My boyfriends 2007 will not go in drive or reverse? Do you think it is the transmission?
@@jessicatucker4720 I think he is referring to the problem where some people would try to start their truck only to have it passlock light turn on and the truck wouldn't think you had an invalid key. Sometimes when driving you would see the passlock light suddenly turn on and flash. Sometimes it would stall the truck and when you tried to restart it, it wouldn't turn over and the passlock light would illuminate.
Also I would add the ground terminal blocks located on the inside of each front fender. If you have weird electrical gremlins clean or repair those.
As someone who is looking at an 09 Colorado this video helps a lot!
I'm looking at a 2012 of this, canyon, or dakota. I can't afford a Toyota Tacoma.
You should go into it my dad has a 2004 and it runs smoothly
@@angelozicarelli541 same lmao
I have 2011 with 3.7 5-cylinder engine. 110,000 miles. I had some wires get worn out around 50,000 miles causing an electric short that sent my engine into low-power mode. Next problem I had was fuel pressure sensor failing. Then I had a belt tensioner wearing into some front part of the engine causing a big rattle. I got that fixed and the rattle went away. Other than that everything's fine, except the rust that is creeping around on the frame. I've been using NH Oil Undercoating treatments and their rust converter to help. Do I ever have to replace the timing chain?
Rebuilt the transmission on my wifes 08 colorado this year, it was at 190000 when it started slipping (6 months and no issues so I guess I did it right lol), and tomorrow putting in a new fuel sending unit due to fuel gauge giving up. Other than that good little truck.
Have an 08 5 cyl 85k miles, replaced the EVAP myself, and thermostat because it was shutting off the AC, and the wiper motor. Those were things I could do myself and save $100s. Also drilled holes so the blinkers would drain, and sealed the rear 3rd stop light so it wouldn't leak down the inside of the back window any more. The AC speed quit working on 3 so I am looking at replacing the resistor as mentioned in the article. Overall this is a big LEGO vehicle. Easy to snap apart and together. Bought it new. It's a good truck. There, you asked.
Good content as always, but which motor has the valve seat issue? They. Had 3 options. Was it all of them?
It's not ultimately the blower regulator or fan speed; it's the fact that there are no cabin filters installed in ANY of these trucks. The leaves and dirt that collects in the blower motor malfunctions because of that. The back pressure on the fan causes the overload and shorts out the wires at the quick disconnect points.
Well hell....This video answered several : "S.O.B.!! Why doses it not work!!!" questions I have had regarding my 234,000+ mile 5cyl Colorado Z71 "beater truck" I purchased two years ago.
2012 with almost 250,000 miles! Other than the normal wear-and-tear parts, I've replaced the blower motor resistor and the MAF sensor. The A/C issues stem from a bad ground - GM uses a grounding "splice pack" (one on each inner fenderwell). The one for the A/C is behind the air filter box. Just cut it out of the equation, and put a crimp-on connector - problem solved!
Got 135k on my 2012, no problems yet lol. Hopefully preventative maintenance keeps it that way
2004 manual trans here.
Haven't had the issues mentioned, but I have replaced my gas tank twice from fuel pump ring failure.
Resistor and thermostat. Not bad for 2005 I5 @ 300,000 miles!
Had every single problem shown in the video. Had a 2012. When the truck worked, it was great. But one day the truck eventually killed itself when a valve came loose. This of course happened 2 months after I spent 2 grand getting the timing chain replaced. After owning trucks from Chrysler, Ford, and GM I have to say, sorry America, I've gone Oriental.
I have had a great truck and upgraded to a 4x4 as I speak. Sorry dude you probably missed a deal. Watch Scotty he is a Toyota fan and talks great on these trucks.
ruclips.net/video/AeGUqurRZdY/видео.html
The Toyota works great because they are 100% built in the USA. All parts made in Tennessee then shipped to Texas for assembly.
Thank you so much. Something to consider.
2008 four-banger here. I've had the EVAP vent valve issue. Instead of the level sensor, my original fuel pump quit at approximately 93,500 miles. My windshield washer pump is questionable. Nothing about the blower motor resistor or the valve seats yet.
Check that your hose lines are still connected to the reservoir and nozzle
If you need to replace a fuel pump or sender unit, the bed comes off with 6 15mm bolts. Get a friend to help you lift it off then you can access it from the top. Took me less than an hour to replace and I didn’t have to drop the tank
Another problem is the frame rot or rust.
240,000 miles. Owned it for the last 150,000. Replace the evap vent solenoid and a fuel pump.
I’ve had my 2010 for 6 years and put about 100K on it, the only thing I’ve replaced is a $20 heater hose connector.
2008 Chevy Colorado here. Had it for years 190 000 miles. One light bulb
Thanks for posting this dude. Considering a used midsized truck. Very helpful.
The only problem I had on this list is the problem with the blower motor resister. I mostly had electrical problems such as the power doors and power windows suddenly stopped working and for some reason after a few days, they would start working again. Other times I would have the theft deterrent light turn on or start flashing while driving and sometimes the truck would suddenly stall when this happens and when I try to restart it, nothing would happen. It appeared to think my key was invalid. Then after an hour or so, it would start right up without any problems. I also had other electrical issues such as all the headlights and side marker lights would stop working on one side. I would replace bulbs thinking they were burned out but it wasn't the bulbs. Suddenly, the problem would stop after a few days. My tail lights would also stop working and there was two recalls on this but it still didn't work. Glad when I traded it in for a Tacoma.
I should add that I did take my truck to the dealer and with the power window problem and one side of my lights not working they would replace the BCM module and it would seem to fix it for a while. Most of the time it was under warranty but when the warranty expired I found out it costs $500 to replace this thing and it sounds like the dealer had no idea what was causing the electric problems.
Good video! My dad has a 06 Colorado. The wheel well lights stay on as well as the radio! What is the problem? It's very frustrating! I'm keeping his until I solved the problems with mine!
The main problem is the damn pass lock security system
Its funny, the 3.7 gets so much hate for reliability yet the handful guys i know that own them all have over 200k miles and going strong. Mine has 301k miles and never anything serious. Im vigilant about upkeep though ao maybe as always, thats the key!
I must have the wval issue as you mentioned. Like you said....changing light is on but truck seems to drive well. Thanks for the tip. Much appreciated 👍👊
+Chi Town House Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Can you do a video on the Colorado passlock issue thanks
All u have to do is turn the wheel while cranking. Usually works for me
If you truck is in passlock, keep the key turned on in the accessory position for 10 minutes. When the lock/car light on the dash stops flashing, turn the key to off then to ignition the truck will start.
#2 options: if you can't stand the pass lock. Do what i did. Next time the truck is running cut the pass lock wire under the steering column and never deal with the BS again.
@@dlm9477 I heard that doesn't work. But where is that at I need to find it
@@dlm9477 I did the same 10 years ago and never had a start Up issue since
Thanks for the video!
I have one for 10 years, never had a problem
I drive a 05 Colorado that fuel sensor is my biggest problem. I have had it die (only at low speeds) because it "ran out of gas" at a quarter of a tank multiple times.
I have an 06, I recommend you do what I do and reset your odometer Everytime you fill up. I go about 300 miles on a tank then fill up. My fuel gauge works properly but just in case, I always have my trip odometer!
I have the same problem but always suspect that was the pump. I never hear anything about fuel level sensor but i want to know more about that. I already got a new pump so if its there another part that i need to change i better know.
I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado and have had issues where are the reduced power showed up in the truck stalled. It wouldn’t start if it was cold but when it warmed up it would start again and be fine. I ran a check on the computer and it said that there was a fuel level sensor issue. Needless to say I’m bewildered. I can’t use the truck while it’s cool and have to wait for the warm weather. I’m not even sure if the issue is a fuel level sensor or it might be something else.
Valve seats are a recall, had GM top end rebuild if your truck has less than 100,000.
06 3.5 here with 247k miles never had any of these issues
#1 if your in the rust belt, frame disappearing right around the front leaf spring bracket.
Thanks you all are awesome👍👍
My 2004 colorado z71 package was a nightmare. Biggest piece of crap I’ve ever owned . At 20 thousand miles the head had to be replaced. The four wheel drive system had about everything in it replaced over a 4 year period. This truck spend more time in the shop then on the road. I still have that truck but it is a spare vehicle. Don’t ever really drive it anymore. Truck still looks like new inside out.but I’ll never buy another chevy after this truck
Owner operated error lol jk og engine and trans 246000 on mine 2 fuel pumps and a alternator now it's time for the vent valve
@@frankboykin3940 you're probably right it's the person driving the vehicle
04 z71 4x4 here with 211,000 miles
I got a '04 with 362,000 miles on it. Lots of issues but until this week, it was very reliable. I think the PCM is bad. Second one, the first one started going bad after driving like 6 hours in a tropical downpour on I-10 in Louisiana and then up into Mississippi.
This video is boggus... he didn't mention overheating issue and the security system fault. The security system causes the truck to lock itself out and won't start. The overheating issue is still a mystery I've yet to figure out. Over 50% of colorado's have these 2 issues in there lifetime's, so it's ridiculous he didn't mention them....🤦♂️🤦♂️
ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS should be number 6 on this list I've had to replace my PCM (2005) 3 times and I know other people who have had to change them too thankfully its a lot cheaper to replace them now first change out cost me $900, now you can buy them online programmed for $150
Was this due to the truck not starting? I have a 2009 and sometimes it won't start...then I take the key out of the ignition and wait 10 minutes and then it usually starts. Sometimes I have to do this twice.
@@michaelvaughn9798 That's an issue with the security alarm system
Thanks for this video
You forgot to mention not starting up, because of the ignition quirk. It will start up 10 to 15 minutes later each time.
Hey bro my truck is licking oil out of the spark plug on number 2 … can you help me how to fix it ..? Or if you have a video that I can watch..!
215k miles on mine and I’m experiencing almost all of those problems! I live in Nevada so I think this heat is speeding up my trucks decay!!
muchas gracias.👍👍
what about the exhaust manifolds that break or better yet the variable valve timing solenold not only have i had to replace that on many customers trucks have had to do it twice on my own 04 model
One thing to add in with the resistor. I went through a few of them before discovering I had a bad ground. Its located in a splice pack tucked in by the air filter box. I took care of that and never blew another resistor.
did you replace the splice pack?
@@joshbayly7462 No, it only seemed to be the ground for the blower that was having issues. So I pulled that wire out, and grounded it to another spot by itself.
Yeah, for some reason they added the ground after the body was painted so it doesn't have a good contact
I ended up having to replace all the wires under the dash too. No problems since I did both, improving the ground and the wires.
I saw someone else make this same comment. The 3rd speed went out on my truck this summer, I’ll have to take a look at that.
have 05 colorado. Rear drivers side running light won’t light up but brake and reverse light do. front passenger blinker doesn’t work, but rear does and blinks fast like bulb is bad but all have been changed and issues persist. any idea what to try? fuses are good as well.
Mines got 345000km, original engine and trans. Only issue I've had is the blower resistor and a permanent EVAP engine light. She runs like new
+Austin K Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
2010 2.9 lt- 310k and never have had much of an issue at all.
I know an old lady who worked the assembly lines in Detroit with a 2.5 4 and she still gets speeding tickets. Maybe she sits too close to the steering wheel. It certainly had more pep than the 2.7 F150 work truck but it probably has a company limiter. 12 mpg with A/C isn't enough for me to give up my Dakota 4.6 even though the best I can do is 16mpg. The last time I drove the work truck it was stuck in limp mode because it wouldn't pull more than 1000rpm in any gear, so I had to turn it in for service. Many thanks to 1A Auto for the best prices on parts! ✌
I drive an 05 2.8l colorado with almost 113k miles the only issue I’ve had from this list is the was the blower motor resistor
2009 2.9 100k miles
Timing chain is streached
Blower speed selector melted
Evap valve rusted solid
Rear diff spider gear missing tooth
I'm having problems with abs light, i have two new front sensors
+donyboy73 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I had the same replace the front wheel bearings they come with sensors go ahead and replace brakes also. You have to pull the bearings to replace the rotors so do it at the same time.
What is the best little pickup in this size other than clapped out rusted out Ranger?
Rotting windshield cowl.
Roof molding comes loose.
Ditto that blower motor resistor!
Rough idle caused by carbon buildup on throttle body air intake.
Freaking cup holder brackets break off!
Blown brake light prevents cruise control from working.
Four door crew cab has the industry’s shortest bed, and no pockets in side rails.
Here in Michigan the frame is a problem. I've had a 04 and 08 colorado frame rust and break on me. Everywhere I look I see the same issue with other first gen colorados around here. My parents own a 02 trailblazer and an 05 silverado and their frames are fine. It's something to do with the first gen frames that cause failure.
The only of the 5 I have experienced is the blower motor resistor. I have a video about it.
Thanks GM for another outstanding product 😸
I have an 09 and I have the fuel sensor issue. Usually if I get to a quarter of a tank and then get gas it says tank empty. I usually yell at it and say no you’re full shut up. After driving a bit, (knock on wood) it corrects itself.
Problema de cabezas y de cadenas de distribución ..... gracias por este video genial
Yep, blower motor resistor. Evap vent valve. Gas cap. Fuel pump, washer pump.. have all those and need a new computer. Every time it rains it's a surprise as to what's going to happen. Blinker just stays on, windshield wipers stay on, hazards on etc. Oh and when its cold..it wont start the 1st time then the security crap kicks in so you gotta wait 10 minutes to start it. Still, I like my 04 Colorado, just annoying at times.
Well I'm planning to rebuild my 2.9L engine soon but I want to do upgrades better than OEM stock and still pass smog only that I can think of is Forge H-beam steel connecting rods and Forge flat top pistons and moly pistons rings and what else can I do to improve it to make is bullet proof please send me some recommendations
180K miles on my Colorado. I am 4 for 5.
Timing chain is one of the biggest , most prevalent problems on this truck. Mine stretched at 45k . It took about 20 hours to replace it. I also replaced the water pump , because it,and about 50 other,items,have to be removed to swap the chains. I don't think I would do it again...and certainly not without a lift ! Parts were not overly expensive,but labor time...uggh ! This is no job for the average mechanic. Chevy engineering is garbage !!! Definitely my last Chevy product .
I've got a 2012, and I've noticed that if you don't keep the grounding wire unit clean, located just behind the air filter box ( wondering why they put it there ), the blower motor won't work or works periodically.
It's easier to remove the truck bed, 4 bolts and prop up, replace fuel pump.
Unless you have a crew cab and the sending unit is under the cab and not the bed.
Sure, if you have six of your closest friends around to help you lift it. Any suggestions for doing this single-handed? 😭
My 08 was brutal 3 front wheel bearings ,,waterpump,thermostat,,fuelpump ,,frame rotted out badly ,,fuel lines ,windshield
2005, replaced thermostat a few times. The resistor issue, seems to more be an issue of crappy connectors. I have had them replaced multiple times, the issue always comes back. I soldered some wires together, and currently i only get 4 setting usually, and I have to open or slam the glove box or jiggle wires to get it to work sometimes 😭
I have an issue with my 2006 Chevy Colorado. It won’t start when it’s cold, and If it does sometimes stalls out with a reduced power showing up on the dash, but it seems to be OK when it’s warm weather in the summer. I checked the code and it said PO 461 fuel level sensor and also PO 601. It is possible to let a mechanic change out the fuel level sensor or does a dealer have to reset any computer connections.
Same issue we are having, but no check engine light on. Would a code still come up without the check engine light on
I am currently having the same problem.2007 colorado
Probably the sending unit but it shouldn't prevent the vehicle from starting.
I am having trouble with the p0601 code on my '04. I've done a bunch of stuff, but still get no start or start stall and the code when it is cool out. 60 this morning no running, just after lunch, it started up and runs nicely.
The truck is just like me, don't like mornings and cold weather.
I am retired, but I need my truck. I am going to work on the grounds again, and then maybe order a reman PCM. I got 362,000 miles on it. Time for a new one?
2007 Canyon 3.7L here with 114k miles. Warped rotors have been the norm. Only problem on the list it's had is the evap issue. Was fixed under warranty around 50k miles (emissions warranty is 80k miles). Ignition replaced at 70k miles. Timing chain started rattling on cold startup around 100k miles. Not looking forward to that repair $$$$. It's been a solid truck overall. Can't complain. I hope to get another 100k miles out of it.
I replaced my front rotors with some cross drilled/slotted rotors almost 2 years ago and thankfully I have not had issues. I did have to replace the pads because the ones that came with the rotors ended up making a lot of noise after a few months even tho they were mostly new.
2008 with the 3.7, 170,000 miles and have only had the resistor issue.
Can u clean out the fuel E vac at spare tire or do u have to buy a new one?
Guess no one knows I may have to just check mine and see cause I’m sick of check engine light on over the e vac junk stupidest system ever
@@shotgunz124 I simply replaced the Solenoid on mine fixed the problem
You can clean the evap canister
07, i have 3, evap valve fuel level sensor and blower resistor plus both front hubs and speed sensors and water pump.
I can't believe there is an engine issue with the 5 cylinder, that doesn't also affect the 4 cylinder, as well as the 6 cylinder in the Chevy Trailblazer, since they are all Atlas engines, manufactured in the same way.
156,691miles had the evap code from under bed. only$20 fix! Now changing front rotors sucks!!
Thanks, good overviews…. But……….Ultimately still on one (with CANYON 2007/4 CYL )Problem:: crank engine, *& NO START OCCASIONALLY, ETC. Interestingly, just got a new BATTERY & , NEW Alternator from Shop?…..Also, Still,, working on FAN STOP random Speeds 3 & 4( just replaced FAN Resistor with Orielly (CHINESE )part… I am WAITING to do: ON SHOP suggestion for Fan Motor replacement……..
Your pump might be going out that’s why it won’t start. Check your gas pressure
Will never change that again. Changed a heating core in chevy corsica and 4got to tighten hose sand fixed that.didnt know if u do a pressure test but ended up blowing a freezer plug right off the engine.Never ever again
+Ricky Damiano Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I dunno why the mpg is so bad on them. Isn’t that the point is buying a small truck?? I have a 1988 S10 with 4 cylinder 5 speed and it gets almost 30mpg on the highway. But it’s a nice classic now and I don’t want to wear it out as daily driver. I had it restored to new again. My dad bought it new in 1988. So I looked into colorados and wasn’t impressed with the mpg they get