Hey, Arch - Rein here! I'm still working on perfecting my valve adjustment after almost 3 years! I already try this method (skosh tightening without messing with lock screw) and sometimes it does work. Of course it all depends on how tight the previous person left things and how far off from spec the clearance is not, but I've found it's always worth trying that first - nothing to lose after all! I've also seen a method where the clearance is set .001 looser than desired and the tightening process snugs it up and makes it .001+/- tighter. I really like that method in theory but haven't had a chance to try it out.
'Nother subject altogether! ;-) Below I describe a recent resto/paint job I did. From that experience (my first) I now have a better eye for flaws. In this video the paint on that Toro looks like it's not the factory job but a recoat in some areas. Is that correct? Waiting for 2nd coat of clear to dry enough to lay on 3rd/final coat on a Cub Cadet push mower (SC 300 E electric start, self-propelled) I'm restoring to flip. I did my first large paint job in the past week on a lawn tractor deck that had at least half the top paint gone and all the underside paint gone (of course). I stripped it down completely so nothing remained except the body of the deck. I prepped with knotted wire wheels with angle grinder on both sides, trying to feather existing/bonded paint to get a nice gradation to the bare spots. Wiped top with acetone, layed on one primer, one topcoat and three quick clearcoats. Bottoms I always brush into the surface with used motor oil - I figure all the things people put on the bottom always get sandblasted off eventually so why bother? My problem is, after the primer dried it was obvious I had missed some feathering and even the areas that I know I feathered well stuck out as well-delineated lines or areas. D'oh! Since this was a mowing deck it didn't seem appropriate to go with another coat of primer, although if I'd had another can I might have but the customer was pushing me to get the mower back to him pronto so I just continued with the rest of the painting, reassembly, mounting and test mowing. I've seen you using body putty stuff to even things out, so in preparation for the day I want to really produce a first class job I'd like to know a lot more about the entire process in one clear video designed to end up with a perfect result. I've learned a lot from you so far but I think I want to understand more about the process in detail as well as specifics about tools, products, consumables used so I can really attack this technique head on. Any chance you could do a video specifically on this subject, going all the way to produce a really great end result? Maybe a push mower deck you're fitting with a replacement engine, where the deck is solid but a lot of paint has come off and there's moderate rust all over.
Got one right now and once hot the thing will not start. It has spark, could be a weak coil but leaning towards checking valves first. Once it cools off it starts……..
Yes,, all OEM stuff is.. I am concerned that aftermarket coils may not have the quality and the proper spark timing. I have had that issues before with other engines. I have no easy way of testing this as in prior experience they just wouldn't work. I would need to make a machine that I could use to properly test coils as they fire during rpm variations. Good luck with your project/repair!
So something IS rocket science! 😁
Hey, Arch - Rein here! I'm still working on perfecting my valve adjustment after almost 3 years! I already try this method (skosh tightening without messing with lock screw) and sometimes it does work. Of course it all depends on how tight the previous person left things and how far off from spec the clearance is not, but I've found it's always worth trying that first - nothing to lose after all!
I've also seen a method where the clearance is set .001 looser than desired and the tightening process snugs it up and makes it .001+/- tighter. I really like that method in theory but haven't had a chance to try it out.
'Nother subject altogether! ;-)
Below I describe a recent resto/paint job I did. From that experience (my first) I now have a better eye for flaws. In this video the paint on that Toro looks like it's not the factory job but a recoat in some areas. Is that correct?
Waiting for 2nd coat of clear to dry enough to lay on 3rd/final coat on a Cub Cadet push mower (SC 300 E electric start, self-propelled) I'm restoring to flip. I did my first large paint job in the past week on a lawn tractor deck that had at least half the top paint gone and all the underside paint gone (of course). I stripped it down completely so nothing remained except the body of the deck. I prepped with knotted wire wheels with angle grinder on both sides, trying to feather existing/bonded paint to get a nice gradation to the bare spots. Wiped top with acetone, layed on one primer, one topcoat and three quick clearcoats. Bottoms I always brush into the surface with used motor oil - I figure all the things people put on the bottom always get sandblasted off eventually so why bother?
My problem is, after the primer dried it was obvious I had missed some feathering and even the areas that I know I feathered well stuck out as well-delineated lines or areas. D'oh! Since this was a mowing deck it didn't seem appropriate to go with another coat of primer, although if I'd had another can I might have but the customer was pushing me to get the mower back to him pronto so I just continued with the rest of the painting, reassembly, mounting and test mowing.
I've seen you using body putty stuff to even things out, so in preparation for the day I want to really produce a first class job I'd like to know a lot more about the entire process in one clear video designed to end up with a perfect result. I've learned a lot from you so far but I think I want to understand more about the process in detail as well as specifics about tools, products, consumables used so I can really attack this technique head on. Any chance you could do a video specifically on this subject, going all the way to produce a really great end result? Maybe a push mower deck you're fitting with a replacement engine, where the deck is solid but a lot of paint has come off and there's moderate rust all over.
Waaaay to much to answer here!
I think I will make a segment on this for my Next Saturday night Live show!
Perfect timing! Thanks
Got one right now and once hot the thing will not start. It has spark, could be a weak coil but leaning towards checking valves first. Once it cools off it starts……..
That sounds like a bad coil!
Often they work when cool but wont once hot!
@@TheNovaJohn yeah I ordered one, 75$ for an oem coil what a rip off
Yes,, all OEM stuff is.. I am concerned that aftermarket coils may not have the quality and the proper spark timing. I have had that issues before with other engines. I have no easy way of testing this as in prior experience they just wouldn't work.
I would need to make a machine that I could use to properly test coils as they fire during rpm variations.
Good luck with your project/repair!