Trick for viewers for hydro hoses without dropping $$$ on parktool stuff: leave existing hoses in, routed, not screwed it to callipers. Thread an old shift cable through the house until it's out both ends. Pull the hydro hose out over the shift cable. The shift cable will be left routed. Route the new hose in over the shift cable until it's through where you need it, pull the shift cable out, hose is now routed. Works a treat.
@@richardhaselwood9478 like Katana for example, it's the red anodized one that is sold by 10 different brands (such as Katana) and is all made by the same Chinese OEM
Nice to know I'm not the only one who put deep wheels on a climbing frame. LOL! I was buying new wheels and for some reason went with the 60s rather than the 40s for my SuperSix. I got them and thought, "what have I done?" But, I actually like them. I've even done a lot of climbing and honestly haven't noticed a difference over the very shallow climbing wheels that came on it when doing a lot of climbing.
Had SuperSix, but I alway use deep wheels (56mm and 65mm). They look fine, really. Eventually I found a deal on SystemSix and think, why not? So, I switch from SuperSix to SystemSix and now that deep wheels don't look so deep anymore next to the deep frame tube.
Great job. I just did this few days ago. My first di2 install. The new Ultegra shifters and derailleurs calipers and 165 mm crank set. Dura ace rotors cassette and chain. Not bad. I opted to run battery cables to the shifter to increase shifter battery life. Supposed to double it.
Love waxing the chain! Started doing it a year ago and haven't looked back. 5K on it with almost no wear😊 I just put DI2 on my Trek, love the new system, now it's easier to use the app without the additional dongle. I bought Ultegra and am very pleased with the ease of installation and performance.
Hey mate how many KMs do you get between a full pot wax? Do you use dripwax inbetween? I read you have to do a full wax every 500km or so, I ride around 400km/week and don't have time to do it once a week....
@@mrwezbo I get 200 +/- miles. I don't use a drip wax in between. TBH i've never tried it. This method isn't for everyone. Somewhat time consuming and you ride a lot of miles.
How many kms is a great question. I hear different numbers 300-400 kms usually. I run multiple chains so I wax all in 1 go. Shane’s video was the first I saw letting the wax cool before removing it.
@@glenmcfarlane I used to let the was cool but then the chain makes a massive flaky mess on the bike. I wipe it down as i remove it from the wax. The inner rollers and pins are what matters for the wax.
Run the chain on a round pole/handle to fully loosen up the links before putting it on the bike. You also don't need to leave it in the pot while the wax cools off.
Another tip is to buy a few chains more (I use 4) and rotate between them instead of using drip wax. If you wax them all together, it is not much more work than waxing just one chain. Using a quicklink makes changing chains really easy, less then a minute work. By using the crockpot every time, you are sure that the wax goes *inside* the chainlinks, (unlike dripwax) where you want it.
Another wax tip - it tends to build up in the cassette - when you rotate chains just run a correctly size flat screwdriver between the cogs to remove the built up wax.
This 2 part video saved me a lot of stress and anxiety lol. I just got my di2 groupset today and I thought I am missing some parts. These videos provided me everything I needed to know, Thanks a lot mate!
Should there be any front/back play in the front cage? I can wiggle mine with my fingers after shop set it up and not sure its supposed to be that loose.
Heyo Shane: Friendly little FYI re: 4:14 :When using a crowsfoot and a torque wrench, the crowsfoot has to be at 90degrees for the torque to be accurate.
I used this method for waxing my chain, but rather than use a slow-cooker like you have, I used a stainless steel pan and a melted down scented candle my mum got given to her for Christmas.
with tires getting wider (25-28mm) on road bikes...to achieve the 4:1 ratio...you almost need 80mm rims to get best "bang for depth" in terms of aerodynamics.
Great vid! Thanks a lot! I'm thinking about switching from SRAM Rival AXS to Ultegra Di2 12s on my cube litening. I found plenty of useful info in your vid and I might also be interested in mounting a wheel manufacturing threaded-together bottom bracket. You're lucky Shimano uses mineral oil and not DOT5 as SRAM 😅
Nice! That's lots of work. Only aesthetic complaint is that the thin tubes of the Giant TCR Advanced don't go so well together with these very deep rims.
Great video and love your work Shane. The dancing when shaking the bottles gave me a laugh. I’m looking at my 2019 TCR differently. I still love the bike, but that upgrade cost more than I paid for the bike! Plus I’m handy, but not as handy as you when it comes to being a bike mechanic. Maybe time to talk to my local shop here in Singapore.
Tip for tuning with a stiff waxed train without riding on it. Run the chain slowly with a hair dryer focused on the rear hanger, which is where the chain bends the most. After 2 minutes it will be good to tune, and no rough riding on your next ride initially
Thank you Shane, your tutorial helped me sync my shifters today. I haven't done the firmware updates yet. I hope they wont be too much trouble. Also, I'm using an ultegra groupset with dura ace chain rings. I cant set the rings to 54/40 in the app. I hope that won't make a difference. Great video.
Sorta raced passed it but to install a brake line you will need an "olive" to clamp it to the lever. You might re-use them but I'd probably not recommend it. So for setting up a new frameset it will be necessary, as I found, to purchase new "olives" for the brake line installation. Remarkably, the $600+ Dura-Ace shifter/caliper combos I purchased don't include this $1.50 part. (They did through in a single barb each. Awfully nice of Shimano there.)
I was a Di2 early adopter all those years ago. I've been riding it for a lot of years. But I have to confess that I don't see the semi-wireless Di2 as an upgrade. The shifting with fully wired 11-speed is more immediate and is always there. I despise that semi-wired is asleep sometimes when I want it to be awake. I understand why it happens . . . but I like fully wired better.
I ended wiring my 12s di2, that was one of the main reasons, instant wake up. The others, 50% more battery range, no need to change coin cells. You can still pair it wireless so in the event of a cable disconnection it will kick in if you have a coin cell installed.
Wait! I didn't realize it had to be "woke up". Sorry. My bikes have SRAM and there is no waking it up. It just always works. I didn't realize Shimano decided to go that route. I guess to extend battery life.
@@DaveCM My experience is that AXS also sleeps but is much less conservative, minimum movement will wake up the system. Seems that Shimano is being too conservative.
@@LainOTN Sir Lama told me that SRAM put accelerometers in the system, which is also why they recommend removing the batteries when you travel with the bike. Shimano didn't put accelerometers in these levers :)
Hi, really enjoy this build, maibe i'm missing a bit the part about bottom bracket, did you have talk about it with another video? Could you explain a bit more about it? What do you install?
You'd know Shane lived in Australia his old groupset looked box fresh, my r8020 callipers and groupset in general have been nicely aged by Irish wet and sh1tty roads!
Fantastic video. I am just in the process of upgrading same so the video is a great help. Just a question please, the bike computer mount off the stem looks really neat, what manufacture is the computer mount/
Fantastic video! Impressive editing. Thank you so much for sharing. Always loved that frame, but I can't see putting a new $2,500 12 speed Di2 groupset on a frame without fully integrated hoses. And 50 or 60mm rims are the outer limit on a climbing bike for me, but to each his own.
i'm about to put 12speed ultegra on a trek 5200, each his own. going from 4 wires out front to 2 for half of new frame price$ means i can do the same on my ti bike for less.
Might wanna wipe the excess wax off the outside of chain while waiting for it to solidify. When I first started I did the same without wiping and there's so much wax flying off the chain from the outer plate. Making a mess when I m tuning the bike
Awesome video Shane 👏 I have little knowledge on bike mechanics but was able to follow along; first time I changed a chain this week 🤭 Did like how you sized up the chain; I went with lining up side by side with old one which was messy 🤣 Bike looks sweet and looking forward to future videos. Ride Safe 🦙
If you have an existing chain to use for size reference (assuming it worked well), it's always preferential to use the old chain vs any of the other sizing methods. If the old chain is really dirty, just wipe it down with a rag and some light solvent (alcohol, etc..).
Really interesting that the biggest faff of the whole thing was the chain! Fair play, don’t know how you can be bothered. Does it really make that much difference? Look forward to the next part of the series👍🏻
Big difference in overall cleanliness - no more covering yourself in sludge when you drop a chain or getting chain grease on the car seats/lounge, calf. :)
One huge advantage to DI2 that has made it possible for me to upgrade to a Modern road bike is the synchro shift feature. With limited use of my right forearm I could not use traditional paddle shifters. With Synco shift programmed to use just the left paddles to shift and brake I’m able to ride a great bike. I have tried to write Shimano to thank them for that feature but could not find a contact method on there website. Please pass this on if have a contact at Shimano. Thanks
I have the mechanical GRX 820 12-speed groupset, and I’d like to upgrade to the GRX 825 12-speed Di2 version. This means I don’t need to replace the brake hoses, calipers, or crankset, as the 825 series remains unchanged in this points. I only need to remove the shift cables and housings and wire the derailleur and front derailleur to the battery. Now my question: Do I need to remove the bottom bracket (press-fit) to remove the shift cables and wire the front derailleur and derailleur? For your information: The shift cables and brake hoses are internally routed.
Awesome video Shane. Thanks for taking the time to make all of these cool videos with great explanations and details. I want to switch over to Di2 on my 2021 TCR and this video is going to help me get there. :D A local shop quoted my $2K for the parts and then they would have to add labor to that.:O Ouch! I can get the parts for quite a bit less and it looks easy enough to install myself. p.s. if you want to send that old 11 speed Di2 my way I will message you my addy. ;) :D
Hi Shane. I watched your video only few minutes ago. I saw you setting the battery of your new Ultegra group and I have a question for you. Please let me know if the 2 cables for connecting the battery can be put into the connectors of the battery regardless of positive and negative or there is a specific way to set them. Thank you so much for your instruction. However, very nice and interesting video. Pino. Rome.
Di2 batteries don’t have the standard positive/negative terminals. The cables just plug into it. The only limit with the newer batteries is that I believe something has to be plugged into the center port. Be it a cable or dummy plug. I can’t recall the exact specifics.
Beautiful video. How long does the wax last in clean riding conditions? And oh man i developed disc rub on SWISS STOP rotors, will go back to Shimano. And would it not make dense riding the original packaging chain grease fo 100-200 kms, break it in, THEN wax?
It's a faff for sure. The wear rate on the gravel bike has converted me though. After almost two years the chain shows no measurable sign of wear. Very handy given the cost of chains and cassettes these days. The chain prep with the solvents is only a once-off and they can all be stored/filtered/reused.
Thanks for that looks like an easy enough build and wire up system. 🤔 Now I need a new bike as mine is rim brakes only unless there are hydro rim brakes I know SRAM done some many years ago lol
At time 8:25 in the video - is that 52/36 Dura Ace or bigger.. like 54/40 ? The chain-rings look bigger than 52/36, but ultegra 12 speed only take 52/36... you need Dura Ace for 54/40 (Dura Ace Front Derailer for 54/40)
@@sergmelikyan It depends where you're riding. If it's flat and fast and not all that windy, go DEEEEEEP. If you want more of an all-rounder wheelset then the 454. And you've just given me an idea for a video, so thanks! 🙏🏼
Can’t wait for the video! To give a bit more background - I have Roval CLX 64mm that weight 1560g. Going 454, drops weight to 1360g, but also drops depth - do I make my bike slower fro aerodynamic perspective for mere 150g of saving? Going 858 keeps the weight the same-ish (lighter by 60g), but gets extra 20mm of depths. Do I make my bike significantly more twitchy without improving much in aerodynamics? In addition I like hookless, tubeless promise of Zipp vs Roval CLX but that is not that important to me.
Also instapot for wax is not recommended. It can burn the wax because it gets hot too fast. A cheap slow cooker is better. You can also just pull the chain out. Don’t need to wait for it to cool.
Hey Shane, VERY nice upgrade, and you make it look all so very easy. Of course, will be very interested in your evaluation of the Dura Ace power meter. Thanks for excellent vid as always...
Llama, were you able to route the new rear brake hose through the foam tube in the down tube? I’ve never been able to get the rear brake hose in the anti-rattle foam tube without first taking the headset apart and running it down the brake hose - then routing the brake hose up the correct ports to the handlebars. If you have rattling, check for the rear brake hose hitting the down tube from inside. Also check out hexagon Boron Nitride powder (hBN) as an additive for your waxing; my experience is it last 2-3x longer than PTFE as hBN is one of the best inert dry lubricants easily 500 mile intervals between re-waxing and hearing just the hum of the tires is awesome.
Shane, I want to do this upgrade, I have a frame with the Junction A box in the downtube. I assume I have to leave it in there, even with it being unnecessary with the rear derailleur now taking care of this ?
Hi Shane. What is the name of the tool which you use during tighten the connecting bolt (while pushing the brake hose)? This tool is between torque wrench and blot. There is no possibility to tightening the bolt with proper torque without this tool.
Great video! Really clear. Is it necessary to completely replace the braking cables or can I just use the old ones? I'm updating from shimano Ultegra mechanical to shimano 105 DI2. Thnx in advance!
Trick for viewers for hydro hoses without dropping $$$ on parktool stuff: leave existing hoses in, routed, not screwed it to callipers. Thread an old shift cable through the house until it's out both ends. Pull the hydro hose out over the shift cable. The shift cable will be left routed. Route the new hose in over the shift cable until it's through where you need it, pull the shift cable out, hose is now routed. Works a treat.
There are much cheaper tools out these too. I've got one that is rebranded by several retailers
@@richardhaselwood9478 like Katana for example, it's the red anodized one that is sold by 10 different brands (such as Katana) and is all made by the same Chinese OEM
Nice to know I'm not the only one who put deep wheels on a climbing frame. LOL! I was buying new wheels and for some reason went with the 60s rather than the 40s for my SuperSix. I got them and thought, "what have I done?" But, I actually like them. I've even done a lot of climbing and honestly haven't noticed a difference over the very shallow climbing wheels that came on it when doing a lot of climbing.
Had SuperSix, but I alway use deep wheels (56mm and 65mm). They look fine, really.
Eventually I found a deal on SystemSix and think, why not?
So, I switch from SuperSix to SystemSix and now that deep wheels don't look so deep anymore next to the deep frame tube.
Similar boat -- I run 50mm rims on a Look 785 Huez. Love it. Even the deep rims are 300-400g lighter than the aluminum rims that came stock.
Great job. I just did this few days ago. My first di2 install. The new Ultegra shifters and derailleurs calipers and 165 mm crank set. Dura ace rotors cassette and chain. Not bad. I opted to run battery cables to the shifter to increase shifter battery life. Supposed to double it.
mate what a farkin weapon, I hope people appreciate how much work you've put into making this video - top notch! its the hell ride special.
Wonderful video. Love your narration, pacing and edits. Informative without being too dry, fun without being over the top. Will be following for sure!
I'm a SRAM guy and totally enjoy these Shimano install videos. Always appreciate how clean and well assembled your bikes are Shane.
Love waxing the chain! Started doing it a year ago and haven't looked back. 5K on it with almost no wear😊 I just put DI2 on my Trek, love the new system, now it's easier to use the app without the additional dongle. I bought Ultegra and am very pleased with the ease of installation and performance.
Hey mate how many KMs do you get between a full pot wax? Do you use dripwax inbetween? I read you have to do a full wax every 500km or so, I ride around 400km/week and don't have time to do it once a week....
@@mrwezbo I get 200 +/- miles. I don't use a drip wax in between. TBH i've never tried it. This method isn't for everyone. Somewhat time consuming and you ride a lot of miles.
How many kms is a great question. I hear different numbers 300-400 kms usually. I run multiple chains so I wax all in 1 go. Shane’s video was the first I saw letting the wax cool before removing it.
@@glenmcfarlane I used to let the was cool but then the chain makes a massive flaky mess on the bike. I wipe it down as i remove it from the wax. The inner rollers and pins are what matters for the wax.
Really needed a good visual for this, thanks!
I'll be honest Lama, I'm most impressed you were able to get your hands one the pure unobtanium that is Ultegra 12 speed....
Brilliant as usual Shane. So easy to follow and pumped that you are hot waxing now (no more dirty chains)
Enjoyed this high-speed, narrated, rock-n-roll format! Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on the upgrades overall.
Shane an excellent video, inspirational, your enthusiasm is infectious - I even tried the chain wax thing! Well done!
Run the chain on a round pole/handle to fully loosen up the links before putting it on the bike. You also don't need to leave it in the pot while the wax cools off.
Good tip! 👌🏼
came here to say this. If it's good enough for @Bikespeeds and all that. They dust the chain too, but admit it's an optional extra
Another tip is to buy a few chains more (I use 4) and rotate between them instead of using drip wax. If you wax them all together, it is not much more work than waxing just one chain. Using a quicklink makes changing chains really easy, less then a minute work. By using the crockpot every time, you are sure that the wax goes *inside* the chainlinks, (unlike dripwax) where you want it.
Another wax tip - it tends to build up in the cassette - when you rotate chains just run a correctly size flat screwdriver between the cogs to remove the built up wax.
I always assumed the wax needed to cool down before removing the chain from the crock pot... 🤔
This 2 part video saved me a lot of stress and anxiety lol. I just got my di2 groupset today and I thought I am missing some parts. These videos provided me everything I needed to know, Thanks a lot mate!
Should there be any front/back play in the front cage? I can wiggle mine with my fingers after shop set it up and not sure its supposed to be that loose.
Heyo Shane: Friendly little FYI re: 4:14 :When using a crowsfoot and a torque wrench, the crowsfoot has to be at 90degrees for the torque to be accurate.
🙏🏼
That's a very recent screenshot of the site - I only published that "Install battery/junction in aero bars" page yesterday evening! 🥳
Nice to see it’s not just me that over pressures the syringe when bleeding brakes . Great vid !!
I used this method for waxing my chain, but rather than use a slow-cooker like you have, I used a stainless steel pan and a melted down scented candle my mum got given to her for Christmas.
🕯👌🏼
Beautiful Vid Shane! Thanks for all the hard work on the editing
Appreciate your videos and also thank you for providing a list of the parts & tools used in the description.
This rebuild video is an excellent addition to your library, Lama. I have an old frame worth a similar upgrade so you have me thinking. Well done. 👍🏻
those deep sections look unreal - big fan of a climbing bike with 80mm rims
with tires getting wider (25-28mm) on road bikes...to achieve the 4:1 ratio...you almost need 80mm rims to get best "bang for depth" in terms of aerodynamics.
The chain cleaning part was pure comedy! 🤣🤣🤣
Those wheels are so much "in your face" that they kind of become really cool!!
Fantastic! A pro building a bike! I learn tons by watching! Thanks Shane!!
Cycling is so simple back then, its all about fun and friends. Now its all about gears and weights, they even cook the chain now.
This setup isn't representative of 'cycling' in general.
Nice build. On the park tool internal cable set there should be a treaded cone to screw into the hydraulic hose.
Rear brake is on the left in the UK too. I have an older German bike as well with the rear brake on the right. I’m used to switching between the two.
Great vid! Thanks a lot! I'm thinking about switching from SRAM Rival AXS to Ultegra Di2 12s on my cube litening. I found plenty of useful info in your vid and I might also be interested in mounting a wheel manufacturing threaded-together bottom bracket.
You're lucky Shimano uses mineral oil and not DOT5 as SRAM 😅
For a Lama vid…always watch to the end 😁
Love your Di2 videos. Thanks for making them
Nice! That's lots of work. Only aesthetic complaint is that the thin tubes of the Giant TCR Advanced don't go so well together with these very deep rims.
Great video and love your work Shane. The dancing when shaking the bottles gave me a laugh. I’m looking at my 2019 TCR differently. I still love the bike, but that upgrade cost more than I paid for the bike! Plus I’m handy, but not as handy as you when it comes to being a bike mechanic. Maybe time to talk to my local shop here in Singapore.
If you can fish cables through a bike frame, congratulations 🎊 you know how to do about 40% of what we do as electricians 👏🏽
Tip for tuning with a stiff waxed train without riding on it. Run the chain slowly with a hair dryer focused on the rear hanger, which is where the chain bends the most. After 2 minutes it will be good to tune, and no rough riding on your next ride initially
Thank you Shane, your tutorial helped me sync my shifters today. I haven't done the firmware updates yet. I hope they wont be too much trouble. Also, I'm using an ultegra groupset with dura ace chain rings. I cant set the rings to 54/40 in the app. I hope that won't make a difference. Great video.
Glad it helped 👌🏼
@@gplama The groupset mis-match doesn't seem to be a problem. I gave you a shout out in my latest little video. Thanks for the reply.
Sorta raced passed it but to install a brake line you will need an "olive" to clamp it to the lever. You might re-use them but I'd probably not recommend it. So for setting up a new frameset it will be necessary, as I found, to purchase new "olives" for the brake line installation. Remarkably, the $600+ Dura-Ace shifter/caliper combos I purchased don't include this $1.50 part. (They did through in a single barb each. Awfully nice of Shimano there.)
Came back 2 relize this builed beacuse im intrested in similar upgrade! She is a beauty
Good timing. After first ordering in December I’m finally expecting my set to be delivered this week.
That's crazy, you are very patient haha.
@@abedfo88 terrible long wait, believe me. Multiple delivery estimates have come and gone, but it’s all finally en route now.
As a complete non technical person that was thoroughly therapeutic
I was a Di2 early adopter all those years ago. I've been riding it for a lot of years. But I have to confess that I don't see the semi-wireless Di2 as an upgrade. The shifting with fully wired 11-speed is more immediate and is always there. I despise that semi-wired is asleep sometimes when I want it to be awake. I understand why it happens . . . but I like fully wired better.
I ended wiring my 12s di2, that was one of the main reasons, instant wake up. The others, 50% more battery range, no need to change coin cells.
You can still pair it wireless so in the event of a cable disconnection it will kick in if you have a coin cell installed.
Wait! I didn't realize it had to be "woke up". Sorry. My bikes have SRAM and there is no waking it up. It just always works. I didn't realize Shimano decided to go that route. I guess to extend battery life.
@@DaveCM My experience is that AXS also sleeps but is much less conservative, minimum movement will wake up the system. Seems that Shimano is being too conservative.
@@LainOTN Sir Lama told me that SRAM put accelerometers in the system, which is also why they recommend removing the batteries when you travel with the bike. Shimano didn't put accelerometers in these levers :)
@@BetterShifting that makes perfect sense with my experience.
there is a tool included for the brake hose on the newest park tool kit
More upgrades to purchase! 😀
Great vid Shane! I would upgrade the ugly fork to the latest model as well since you are upgrading to 12 speed, just my 2 cents
Great informative vlog Shane.👏👏
As always, very interesting Shane, thanks for sharing.
Happy cycling:)
Hi, really enjoy this build, maibe i'm missing a bit the part about bottom bracket, did you have talk about it with another video? Could you explain a bit more about it? What do you install?
Never heard Grandpa’s Axe before. In the UK we’d call it Triggers Broom
There it is! Thanks legend.
You'd know Shane lived in Australia his old groupset looked box fresh, my r8020 callipers and groupset in general have been nicely aged by Irish wet and sh1tty roads!
Fantastic video. I am just in the process of upgrading same so the video is a great help. Just a question please, the bike computer mount off the stem looks really neat, what manufacture is the computer mount/
Silca Chisela.
whats the best bleed kit Shane as you mention one in the video and then put links to a different one
loved the chain cleaning. thank you. ha-ha
Fantastic video! Impressive editing. Thank you so much for sharing. Always loved that frame, but I can't see putting a new $2,500 12 speed Di2 groupset on a frame without fully integrated hoses. And 50 or 60mm rims are the outer limit on a climbing bike for me, but to each his own.
i'm about to put 12speed ultegra on a trek 5200, each his own. going from 4 wires out front to 2 for half of new frame price$ means i can do the same on my ti bike for less.
@@daniel.s8126 had to go etap axs due to rim brakes
I did this back in February. Now the only original part on my 2020 Trek Domane SL is the frameset.
Might wanna wipe the excess wax off the outside of chain while waiting for it to solidify. When I first started I did the same without wiping and there's so much wax flying off the chain from the outer plate. Making a mess when I m tuning the bike
Great Video - Quick question if i may, what is the adaptor on your tourque wrench?
Awesome video Shane 👏 I have little knowledge on bike mechanics but was able to follow along; first time I changed a chain this week 🤭 Did like how you sized up the chain; I went with lining up side by side with old one which was messy 🤣 Bike looks sweet and looking forward to future videos. Ride Safe 🦙
If you have an existing chain to use for size reference (assuming it worked well), it's always preferential to use the old chain vs any of the other sizing methods. If the old chain is really dirty, just wipe it down with a rag and some light solvent (alcohol, etc..).
Really interesting that the biggest faff of the whole thing was the chain! Fair play, don’t know how you can be bothered. Does it really make that much difference? Look forward to the next part of the series👍🏻
Big difference for chain/equipment wear (based on my experience with the gravel bike waxed setup).
Big difference in overall cleanliness - no more covering yourself in sludge when you drop a chain or getting chain grease on the car seats/lounge, calf. :)
@@andyking8464 And no having to wash little lama's hands when he touches it.
@@gplama Good Point. :)
Hi, I am about to do the same upgrade. Does it matter which port I plug in the FD and RD in the battery? Thank you.
One huge advantage to DI2 that has made it possible for me to upgrade to a Modern road bike is the synchro shift feature. With limited use of my right forearm I could not use traditional paddle shifters. With Synco shift programmed to use just the left paddles to shift and brake I’m able to ride a great bike. I have tried to write Shimano to thank them for that feature but could not find a contact method on there website. Please pass this on if have a contact at Shimano. Thanks
Shane. I received a notification of a message from you but not on Telegraph. Only Facebook
I have the mechanical GRX 820 12-speed groupset, and I’d like to upgrade to the GRX 825 12-speed Di2 version. This means I don’t need to replace the brake hoses, calipers, or crankset, as the 825 series remains unchanged in this points. I only need to remove the shift cables and housings and wire the derailleur and front derailleur to the battery.
Now my question: Do I need to remove the bottom bracket (press-fit) to remove the shift cables and wire the front derailleur and derailleur? For your information: The shift cables and brake hoses are internally routed.
Sweet montage !
Nice one Shane!
Awesome video Shane. Thanks for taking the time to make all of these cool videos with great explanations and details. I want to switch over to Di2 on my 2021 TCR and this video is going to help me get there. :D A local shop quoted my $2K for the parts and then they would have to add labor to that.:O Ouch! I can get the parts for quite a bit less and it looks easy enough to install myself.
p.s. if you want to send that old 11 speed Di2 my way I will message you my addy. ;) :D
Have I missed you putting those 808's on the tcr?? They're HUGE 👌
the hose nut on the shifter has to be fully threaded in then torqued down
808’s on a TCR? Interesting combo!
That ending! 😂
Nice one, Shane! I am green with envy :)
Ooofff! Looks amazing!
Triggers broom.
P.S. Those wheels, I bloody love em
Patiently waiting for the SW-RS801-T install video…
Hi Shane.
I watched your video only few minutes ago.
I saw you setting the battery of your new Ultegra group and I have a question for you.
Please let me know if the 2 cables for connecting the battery can be put into the connectors of the battery regardless of positive and negative or there is a specific way to set them.
Thank you so much for your instruction.
However, very nice and interesting video.
Pino. Rome.
Di2 batteries don’t have the standard positive/negative terminals. The cables just plug into it. The only limit with the newer batteries is that I believe something has to be plugged into the center port. Be it a cable or dummy plug. I can’t recall the exact specifics.
Beautiful video. How long does the wax last in clean riding conditions? And oh man i developed disc rub on SWISS STOP rotors, will go back to Shimano. And would it not make dense riding the original packaging chain grease fo 100-200 kms, break it in, THEN wax?
That crank spin test…. Hambini would cryyyyyy
It’s unloaded. And that was the first turn after install.
@@gplama I must be missing something man, it won’t get better from there. Something’s misaligned or otherwise off
I'll give it another spin if I remember in Part III after a few good/hard kms. 👌🏼
@@gplama Did you remember? 🫣
@@thedownunderverse Nope... but I'll to test it now....
I'm still on the fence regarding wax chains, and seeing how much solvents are consumed 😬
It's a faff for sure. The wear rate on the gravel bike has converted me though. After almost two years the chain shows no measurable sign of wear. Very handy given the cost of chains and cassettes these days. The chain prep with the solvents is only a once-off and they can all be stored/filtered/reused.
Thanks for that looks like an easy enough build and wire up system. 🤔 Now I need a new bike as mine is rim brakes only unless there are hydro rim brakes I know SRAM done some many years ago lol
At time 8:25 in the video - is that 52/36 Dura Ace or bigger.. like 54/40 ? The chain-rings look bigger than 52/36, but ultegra 12 speed only take 52/36... you need Dura Ace for 54/40 (Dura Ace Front Derailer for 54/40)
52/36
very useful video, thanks! How do you adjust rear derailleur high limit to avoid burning the electric engine of the mech? Greetings from Italy
Ahh burning out the RD? Hasn’t occurred on this bike.
Great video as always Shane, you seem to have a GoPro mount above your saddle bag, which mount is it?
That’s the adapter for the Pro Stealth saddle.
HI Shane,
Did you mention you where going to show us how to upgrade the lever software at a later date using the PC?
Yep. I still have to open the new PC Link that I’ll use for the task.
Nice bike!!! 💣💣💣👌👌👌
Can't wait for wheels review! I am curios how is it running such deep wheels on a road bike!
They roll well. They sound fast. The front gets pushed around with crosswinds. That's about it really.
I am trying to choose between NSW 454 and 858 and struggling to choose :) Getting both is a bit expensive
@@sergmelikyan It depends where you're riding. If it's flat and fast and not all that windy, go DEEEEEEP. If you want more of an all-rounder wheelset then the 454. And you've just given me an idea for a video, so thanks! 🙏🏼
Can’t wait for the video! To give a bit more background - I have Roval CLX 64mm that weight 1560g. Going 454, drops weight to 1360g, but also drops depth - do I make my bike slower fro aerodynamic perspective for mere 150g of saving? Going 858 keeps the weight the same-ish (lighter by 60g), but gets extra 20mm of depths. Do I make my bike significantly more twitchy without improving much in aerodynamics?
In addition I like hookless, tubeless promise of Zipp vs Roval CLX but that is not that important to me.
Hi there.... Just wonder on how much does your bike weighs? , it looks deadly man.. 👍👍
Hi Shane, what is the part you use to stop the battery falling out? Thanks
There's a wedge that goes into the post that secures it in place.
Great video Shane, is that the Sigeyi derailleur hanger?
Yes
Also instapot for wax is not recommended. It can burn the wax because it gets hot too fast. A cheap slow cooker is better. You can also just pull the chain out. Don’t need to wait for it to cool.
Very true. Make sure to keep the temperature below whatever silca says Max Temp is. It can burn (smoke) and even flash off (fire) if it gets too hot.
There's a b tension tool included? Gonna have to have a look cause I don't remember seeing it
Tool/guide.
Hi Shane, which setting do you use on your instant pot for melting the wax?
Nice work....I subtract points however for not using a Gold chain😉
🙅🏻♂️🙅🏻♂️🤣
Hi, thank you for this video. Could you please tell me how we can get the gauge for the B-tension setting you used at 13:23? Thank you.
That came in the box with the rear derailleur.
@@gplama I see. Thank you for the prompt reply.
Even if you don't have the gauge, its user manual will state the gap you need in millimetres depending on your cassette size.
Great video. could you inform about the threat press-fit BB detalis? Maybe Token Ninja?.
8:10 in the video shows the BB.
What’s the little bit called that you use to torque the hydro screw into the calliper? Been looking for one like that for ages…
Crow foot. Came with the SRAM bleed kit.
Hey Shane,
VERY nice upgrade, and you make it look all so very easy. Of course, will be very interested in your evaluation of the Dura Ace power meter. Thanks for excellent vid as always...
That review coming soon….
Llama, were you able to route the new rear brake hose through the foam tube in the down tube? I’ve never been able to get the rear brake hose in the anti-rattle foam tube without first taking the headset apart and running it down the brake hose - then routing the brake hose up the correct ports to the handlebars. If you have rattling, check for the rear brake hose hitting the down tube from inside. Also check out hexagon Boron Nitride powder (hBN) as an additive for your waxing; my experience is it last 2-3x longer than PTFE as hBN is one of the best inert dry lubricants easily 500 mile intervals between re-waxing and hearing just the hum of the tires is awesome.
I didn't use any foamy anti-rattle on the brake hose. I'll go down that path if I have any issues with it out on the road.
@@gplama Nice looking build!
@@gplama Jagwire ZSK600 foam sleeve is great for this.
Shane, I want to do this upgrade, I have a frame with the Junction A box in the downtube. I assume I have to leave it in there, even with it being unnecessary with the rear derailleur now taking care of this ?
You should be able to get a blank/dummy plug for it from your frame manufacturer.
good video. do you have disc rub with this setup.?
Nope
Hi Shane. What is the name of the tool which you use during tighten
the connecting bolt (while pushing the brake hose)? This tool is between torque wrench and blot. There is no possibility to tightening the bolt with proper torque without this tool.
Crow’s foot.
Great video! Really clear. Is it necessary to completely replace the braking cables or can I just use the old ones? I'm updating from shimano Ultegra mechanical to shimano 105 DI2. Thnx in advance!
I re-used the old hoses. They are both BH90...so same same. Made my upgrade go even faster.
If they're still in good shape, no problem.