South Main Auto Repair LLC I'd pay to see that lol.. Looks like you guys see about as much salt as we do up here in Canada.. I can't believe they didn't need a hammer for those drums
Exactly, they have no idea what we go through... When they just magically unscrewed that brake line from the wheel cylinder, I was like yeah right, that never happens here - time to get out the penetrating fluid, blow torch, and probably end up having to bend up new brake lines if I'm lucky. The show would be 4x as long, but would be more accurate for most people.
15:27 That tip actually saved my ass one day. I was about 3 hours away from home on the interstate when I noticed a bad misfire and loss of power. Turns out, my cylinder 3 spark plug cable grounded out and melted to the header. I remember I kept the best cables in my truck box and ended up throwing a new one on and hitting the road again. I was thanking myself for actually keeping a few old ones.
I've owned 3 box Chevy trucks. One a 96 Tahoe, gotten 325,000 miles before I gave to a friend. The other 2 I still have 99 suburban, and 99 Yukon with 260,000 miles and I get alot of compliments with both trucks. All trucks have had schedule maintenance performed and the transmissions have held up even. If there trucks are taken care of they will be extremely reliabile! As a matter of fact among technicians these trucks are known for there super reliability. As Master Auto Technician, I haven't seen this kind of consistent reliability in later model trucks. Not even close!!!
“Something crazy like that”. Before I really knew what I was doing, I did a tune up on my 1980 Caddy. Had the Haynes manual and everything. Yanked all the wires, followed the instructions, and ended up 180* out, with no idea how to fix it. That was the last time I yanked all the wires at once.
@Darrin Hart, better replacement axle seals have a slightly reduced inside diameter to help compensate for the wear. Some are even marketed and marked as 'problem solver', or something along that name.
I ran into that very thing on my 82 k10. Axle seals leaked on the brakes, did brakes and seals. 3 months later I was doing the outside bearing cause it was leaking again.
@@danareynolds1786 you are correct about the seal diameter, but he's right about the need to change the outside axle bearing, sloppy bearing will blow the seal right away. Lived it. Learned from the experience
I thought he was talking about wear at the seal. I've seen where the seal has worn through and the inner spring has worn the axle surface requiring attention.
Ford never builds a truck that last like a Chevy. I know i had plenty of ford trucks because there cheaper than a Chevy truck rather pay more for a Chevy last alot longer.
266000 on my 98 GMC k1500 all orignal drivetrain other than replacing the lower intake and regular maintenance. Great trucks! Very very easier to work on and get parts!
I enjoyed watching this, I’m not driving a 99 truck but my first car is a 15 Impala Limited was used at 37K, doing self maintenance has helped me saving lots of money just doing simple things and I’m at 79K already. Almost 3 years of owning my car, wishing many more years to own.
pretty cheap for insurance and knowing the fluid is half changed and filter is good. i just did mine 400 miles ago in my 290k 93 4l80e ran around 45 i even used supertech trans oil which is fine
Because most of your local mechanics will not fix everything even if it needs replaced, I wanted my thermostat changed after a radiator flush on a 30 year old vehicle. Mechanic bitched about “Why” what’s it doing theirs nothing wrong with it. Guess he was never taught preventative maintenance. Stopped going to him and do my own shit now
Nice instructional video,..BUT, for folks just staring into this kind of repair, please bear SAFETY in mind,..Ryan was NOT wearing safety glasses when he was installing those new drum brake parts, and it's really easy for a piece of dirt to fly off those spring and put your eye(s) into a world of hurt! Also, he cleaned all the dirt/dust from the backing plates that holds all the brake stuff, BUT he neglected to show washing down those new brake rotors etc. before finishing the job. There WAS a 'glob' of new grease there at the five o'clock position on the new rotor, leaving that there will contaminate the new pads and possibly reducing brake effectiveness. SAFETY is everybody's business, it doesn't cost,...it saves!
Dont call her a turd man lol. I will say @12:10 the vss and vss connector harness should of been replaced together, also I had an issue with a duralast vss sensor than I tried a napa and they both would grind against the gear looking thing in there it counts for the speedo. Only an Ac delco would work I got off amazon. Just for anyone thinking of doing that vss . My truck would act really weird in overdrive it would kick in and out then go into limp mode . The wiring for the vss I believe got crushed due to a transmission swap the wiring was between the trans and the under body of the truck .
On a car that old, you want to think more holistically. When you start nibbling like that, two things happen. 1.) You have a major failure 2 months AFTER you do a modest service on it. On the trans, say, you replace the filter and fluid, a couple seals, the seeping cooler lines, maybe add a bigger cooler while you're at it. Then 2 months later it starts slipping. Or the valve body has a heart attack. Doh... 2.) You initiate a chain reaction failure that travels throughout a system. You replace a bad thermostat, for instance, and flush the coolant. Then a hose blows. You fix that and the water pump starts leaking. Then the freeze plugs. Each time it happens, you buy more coolant and spend another Saturday re-doing work you did last Saturday. It's wasteful and frustrating. Think very broadly about everything you do. What else should you replace while you're in there? Should you even bother with a service, or simply replace the entire unit? Cars can go for a very long time without any real problems. Once they start, however, they tend to occur all at once. The catalyst often is a well-intentioned minor repair. Just replace everything up front and be done. I'm not hating on Truck Tech; just offering lessons learned from 4 decades of buying very old cars.
Put 697,500+ miles on a 2000 Chevy Astro van over 11.5 years, sold it to a church for $1 and they are using locally for last 3 years. 4.3L vortex engine. Original power train.
I chuckled a little when i saw him installing the retaining springs with pliers.. They have all that expensive equipment in the shop but not a 6$ retaining spring tool?
I did them on my old 98 k1500 5 speed. All I did was put the new shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders on put 2 lugs to hold the drum on started the truck put it in reverse and the pedal went to the floor. I pumped the brakes until the pedal started building up and I could hear the Rpms coming down. I did this until it stalled the truck and the brakes where adjusted great. Driving in reverse and hitting them also adjusts them
ofmyownaccord and is that why my brand new brake rotors and pads squeak when I hit the brake or going cruise mode (35mph) ?? Front brakes on a 96 c1500
Wolfman Jack Detroit axle brand brakes !! And we did not do any cleaning of the new brakes no ... so hopefully that’s why it squeaks and not something more serious
Anyone else get some NAM flashbacks when he had his eye so close to that drum hardware when he was using the pliers? Not even utilizing safety squint.. I also like to live dangerously
I bought one of these with 223k and I had to replace the actual distributor itself to get it to run right. Just doing the cap and plug wires didn't help. The magnets on the shaft itself must have cracked or something, it started running terrible one day. Surprised they didn't do it on that one.
To stop the flow of the fuid, You'll want to use a brake hose clamping tool. If you use clamping pliers there's a good chance it will damage the hose. Here's a link I found on Google. www.amazon.com/Lisle-22850-Hose-Pincher/dp/B0002NYB78/ref=asc_df_B0002NYB78/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312177448019&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6461179899196065781&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014185&hvtargid=pla-436286796225&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61495038909&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312177448019&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6461179899196065781&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014185&hvtargid=pla-436286796225
For the front wheel bearing preload, it does come down to experience. :( It's best to have an old timer show you how it's done in person. But basically do what they did here with tightening it then you back off a bit and then tighten with your fingers as tight as possible. You don't want drag on the bearing and yet you don't want it to be loos. It's hard to explain without a hand on. I wish I can explain it better.
I went to replace axle seals and bearings on my 89 Chevy. The 8mm retaining bolt that holds the pin in twisted off where the smooth part of the bolt meets the threads. How do you get the remaining part of the threads out? I bought and tried a left hand drill bit hoping the cutting edges would cut and hang into the remaining threaded part enough to turn them out but the housing sticks out past the hole so you can't drill straight into it. Drills at an angle and wants to cut into the threads and not into end of bolt. Argghh!!
that many miles and they didn't even replace the distributor gear which is the most common problem with the cam correlation code nor did they replace the fuel filter or the rear axle bearings with that many miles
@lSTICKYFINGERSl I have fixed hundreds of these with worn distributor gears a majority of the time the check engine light will be on with no signs of a problem believe what you want I know I'm right
@lSTICKYFINGERSl because if you are rehabbing a Truck and replacing common failure components that particular part in my experience is the most common and failure prone part.In the late 90s I done these multiple times in a week every week.
@lSTICKYFINGERSl u dont need to worry about tdc. note where the roter is pointing when you pull it and reinstall with it in the same spot. i can have a 12yr old do it
So my cousin installed some new brake pads and rotors on my 96 c1500, but they started to make a squeaking sound when I hit the brake or if I’m going slow .. Detroit axle brand Nd they are organic . Did my cousin miss something or does the organic and semi metallic make a difference as he says it will with the squeaking noises ..? I need answers lol
I do the same with cars or trucks with serpentine belt set up I don't throw away the belt I leave it in the trunk or laying around in the truck bed, even with the v belts I only keep one, the most important one, the water pump and anternator belt that will get me moving home or to the auto parts store
I checked about 15 Fram oil filters at a Pep Boys once, and every single one of them had rust on the exposed metal between the gasket and threads; bad enough that I could scrape some off with more under that. This happened maybe 22 years ago and haven't bought a Fram product since.
Why not clean the speed sensor completely or just replace it? That old it's gonna fail soon anyway. And why didn't they replace that connector? That bare wire is a short waiting to happen.
Yikes! On the front wheel bearing torque or lack thereof. You have to use a torque wrench (something like 10 ft lbs) on the front wheel bearing spindle nut to seat the bearings and then loosen and just go finger tight before inserting the cotter pin. Good way to smoke a bearing and spindle is to skip the torque wrench and just "think you feel" the correct torque. You know like, "using The Force" instead of a torque wrench. Also, the idler pulleys usually go bad before or after 100K miles depending on idle time. Once one of those pulleys lock up, or fall off it will toast the serp belt. No one ever shows adding the rear differential gear oil additive for the limited slip rear ends which is the norm differential in most light trucks. I use the 7 ounce tubes they sell at Auto Zone and other places. Works great with just two quarts gear oil which puts it near full to the fill hole. Noticed if it isn't added, after a drive, you get a huge amount of large gear oil bubbles and foaming that will spill out of the fill hole if you pull the fill plug.
260k miles but let’s not bother replacing the timing chain or water pump or thermostat or rad hoses or do a rad flush...just do the brakes and steering linkage and throw a set of plugs at it!
Must be nice to live down south where you still have a truck to work on after 20+ years. In New England, you'd be able to throw a cat through the rust holes in the bedsides and the cab corners wouldn't exist.
My God you guys worry about damn filters. Are Fram the best? No. Will they cause your engine to explode? No. Millions of cars have driven billions of miles using Fram filters. All of this hand wringing over stupid filters is exactly that, STUPID. Oh, and I'd take the net worth of the guy who owns Fram over the net worth of any of you filter snobs commenting here.
I need to get these fellas a 260k GM rot box from NY... then they'll have a real show haha
Absolutely they would not know what hit them
The master of brakes watching a brake job on a Chevy. First, your just here for the brake clean. Second, I knew you were a closet Chevy lover Mr O.
South Main Auto Repair LLC I'd pay to see that lol.. Looks like you guys see about as much salt as we do up here in Canada.. I can't believe they didn't need a hammer for those drums
Still a good show
Exactly, they have no idea what we go through... When they just magically unscrewed that brake line from the wheel cylinder, I was like yeah right, that never happens here - time to get out the penetrating fluid, blow torch, and probably end up having to bend up new brake lines if I'm lucky. The show would be 4x as long, but would be more accurate for most people.
This show is stuck in the early 2000s, gotta love it
Well this episode is years old. Not early 2000s but if it had to guess 10 years old
@@MoparMadness93 No wonder, I was getting vibes from this lmao
Yet, here we are watching and complaining about it. 🙄🤣🤣
No shit? Perhaps that’s because it’s an old episode.
@@MoparMadness93 lol it says copyright 2014 at the end
There is just something about being a mechanic and watching other mechanics do the work that just makes me happy.
That was actually fun to watch. Sometimes it's good to fix what you have rather than throwing in an LS engine with the matching transmission.
15:27 That tip actually saved my ass one day. I was about 3 hours away from home on the interstate when I noticed a bad misfire and loss of power. Turns out, my cylinder 3 spark plug cable grounded out and melted to the header. I remember I kept the best cables in my truck box and ended up throwing a new one on and hitting the road again. I was thanking myself for actually keeping a few old ones.
Gotta luv those old Chevys
and Fords.
my 92 k1500 runs great still but never put china plugs in a 350 ..
animalcorvair I hate you, you got the 92 K1500 & I got the shitty 92 C1500😩
Why
@@flight2k5 they last thats why
I've owned 3 box Chevy trucks. One a 96 Tahoe, gotten 325,000 miles before I gave to a friend. The other 2 I still have 99 suburban, and 99 Yukon with 260,000 miles and I get alot of compliments with both trucks. All trucks have had schedule maintenance performed and the transmissions have held up even. If there trucks are taken care of they will be extremely reliabile! As a matter of fact among technicians these trucks are known for there super reliability. As Master Auto Technician, I haven't seen this kind of consistent reliability in later model trucks. Not even close!!!
“Something crazy like that”. Before I really knew what I was doing, I did a tune up on my 1980 Caddy. Had the Haynes manual and everything. Yanked all the wires, followed the instructions, and ended up 180* out, with no idea how to fix it. That was the last time I yanked all the wires at once.
With that many miles, I would have replaced the rear axle bearings while replacing the seals. Very cheap insurance.
Doesn't make sense they would replace the front and then skip the back
@Darrin Hart, better replacement axle seals have a slightly reduced inside diameter to help compensate for the wear. Some are even marketed and marked as 'problem solver', or something along that name.
I ran into that very thing on my 82 k10. Axle seals leaked on the brakes, did brakes and seals. 3 months later I was doing the outside bearing cause it was leaking again.
@@danareynolds1786 you are correct about the seal diameter, but he's right about the need to change the outside axle bearing, sloppy bearing will blow the seal right away. Lived it. Learned from the experience
I thought he was talking about wear at the seal. I've seen where the seal has worn through and the inner spring has worn the axle surface requiring attention.
I have 329k on my 03 2500hd. Runs perfect.
LS power!
Duramax power you mean?
Ford never builds a truck that last like a Chevy. I know i had plenty of ford trucks because there cheaper than a Chevy truck rather pay more for a Chevy last alot longer.
@@brysonshires9742 no, it's a 6.0 gas motor.
Shawn Van Meeteren oh baby
Be sure to install the rotors with grease on your gloves
I was just shocked to see anyone wearing gloves.
I love the way you keep it cheap lol it might not be very expensive but with a major repair process repair every penny counts.
you guys made my day with this project. hands down my favorite truck ever.
266000 on my 98 GMC k1500 all orignal drivetrain other than replacing the lower intake and regular maintenance. Great trucks! Very very easier to work on and get parts!
I enjoyed watching this, I’m not driving a 99 truck but my first car is a 15 Impala Limited was used at 37K, doing self maintenance has helped me saving lots of money just doing simple things and I’m at 79K already. Almost 3 years of owning my car, wishing many more years to own.
How is he reinstalling those spring retainers without even squinting, let alone safety glasses. Dude must balls of steel
Yeah, he should have employed the safety squints.
You didn't clean that speed sensor for crap and just ignored the exposed wire on the connector!
Yeah.
And???
Noah P crap on sensor could cause intermittence in the sensor. Exposed wire would short
Thrash It Till You Crash It aaaaaannnnnd the truck is old asf and who ever owns it probably doesn’t give a shit.
Its a chevy. It'l take it. If you leave the Gunk on it will cover the exposed copper and insulate it.
They were under the truck fixing the speed sensor seal. Why didn't they drop the trans pan and change the filter?
thats exacxtly what i said. its cheap like 40 bucks or so
pretty cheap for insurance and knowing the fluid is half changed and filter is good. i just did mine 400 miles ago in my 290k 93 4l80e ran around 45 i even used supertech trans oil which is fine
Exactly what I was thinking..
Because most of your local mechanics will not fix everything even if it needs replaced, I wanted my thermostat changed after a radiator flush on a 30 year old vehicle. Mechanic bitched about “Why” what’s it doing theirs nothing wrong with it. Guess he was never taught preventative maintenance. Stopped going to him and do my own shit now
@@Gabriel.4190 30 yod car? You should have been doing that yourself.
its amazing how these guys can do all this in one take with no script!
Nice instructional video,..BUT, for folks just staring into this kind of repair, please bear SAFETY in mind,..Ryan was NOT wearing safety glasses when he was installing those
new drum brake parts, and it's really easy for a piece of dirt to fly off those spring and put your eye(s) into a world of hurt!
Also, he cleaned all the dirt/dust from the backing plates that holds all the brake stuff, BUT he neglected to show washing down those new brake rotors etc. before finishing the job. There WAS
a 'glob' of new grease there at the five o'clock position on the new rotor, leaving that there will contaminate the new pads and possibly reducing brake effectiveness.
SAFETY is everybody's business, it doesn't cost,...it saves!
Doing all of this with an abused 2010 f150 platinum. Previous owner wasn’t kind to her... Thanks for the vid!
These trucks make a good project. Had a 97’
I learned some new tricks here thanks you specially the magnet on the spider gear.
Dont call her a turd man lol. I will say @12:10 the vss and vss connector harness should of been replaced together, also I had an issue with a duralast vss sensor than I tried a napa and they both would grind against the gear looking thing in there it counts for the speedo. Only an Ac delco would work I got off amazon. Just for anyone thinking of doing that vss . My truck would act really weird in overdrive it would kick in and out then go into limp mode . The wiring for the vss I believe got crushed due to a transmission swap the wiring was between the trans and the under body of the truck .
My favorite kind of truck, I have an extended cab Silverado that is the same year..
Chevy never dies obs till the end of time
@Barry you right brother blessings to you and your family glad you chevy family forever
I'll never sell mine. 1995 GMC Suburban 454
GMT400 may be the best truck chevy ever made.
Wow, didn't even use slotted and cross drilled rotors. Happy to see it wasn't a high end build for this episode
Damn the drums were shot and you didn't have a rotor conversion kit!!
Drove a 2000 Chevy Astro van 697,543 miles over an 11.5 year period.
On a car that old, you want to think more holistically. When you start nibbling like that, two things happen.
1.) You have a major failure 2 months AFTER you do a modest service on it. On the trans, say, you replace the filter and fluid, a couple seals, the seeping cooler lines, maybe add a bigger cooler while you're at it. Then 2 months later it starts slipping. Or the valve body has a heart attack. Doh...
2.) You initiate a chain reaction failure that travels throughout a system. You replace a bad thermostat, for instance, and flush the coolant. Then a hose blows. You fix that and the water pump starts leaking. Then the freeze plugs. Each time it happens, you buy more coolant and spend another Saturday re-doing work you did last Saturday. It's wasteful and frustrating.
Think very broadly about everything you do. What else should you replace while you're in there? Should you even bother with a service, or simply replace the entire unit? Cars can go for a very long time without any real problems. Once they start, however, they tend to occur all at once. The catalyst often is a well-intentioned minor repair. Just replace everything up front and be done.
I'm not hating on Truck Tech; just offering lessons learned from 4 decades of buying very old cars.
This is a show from 2014. copyright MMXIV.
They mentioned over a 1/4 million miles like alot, here I am with 96 k1500 suburban with 335000+ miles on it...no issues anywhere, guess I got lucky
Damn there's so many world class gm master techs in the comments
Yes.
Yeah, CHEVY! AMERICA!
Put 697,500+ miles on a 2000 Chevy Astro van over 11.5 years, sold it to a church for $1 and they are using locally for last 3 years. 4.3L vortex engine. Original power train.
Stephen Drummer That is unreal! Did you do deliveries with it?
Yup, I’m an expedited freight courier, averaging 250 miles per day, 5 days a week, 250 days a year, got photo’s and plenty of witnesses and records.
Stephen Drummer wow, I have an 02 with 133k on it. What kinds of issues did you have with it? Wheel bearings? Any seals go out?
Watch those springs, one let go while I was looking at it and nearly took my left eye. Get your safety glasses on man
I'd wear a welding helmet or a deep sea diving helmet.
@@BigEightiesNewWave nah, EOD equipment, maybe an airstrike. Can't be too careful
I was squinting during that part..😖
my thoughts exactly, that part made me cringe
I chuckled a little when i saw him installing the retaining springs with pliers.. They have all that expensive equipment in the shop but not a 6$ retaining spring tool?
Cute tune up
Great video! I wish you guys would have shown how to adjust the new rear brake shoes after installation.
I did them on my old 98 k1500 5 speed. All I did was put the new shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders on put 2 lugs to hold the drum on started the truck put it in reverse and the pedal went to the floor. I pumped the brakes until the pedal started building up and I could hear the Rpms coming down. I did this until it stalled the truck and the brakes where adjusted great. Driving in reverse and hitting them also adjusts them
Chevy front end is loose. Its all good 👌 1/4 turn on the steering wheel is oe spec.
Didn’t mention cleaning the new rotors off with brake clean
Mason Green yeah he got the axle grease on them
Mason Green why is that important? Serious question no smart ass remarks please lol
ofmyownaccord and is that why my brand new brake rotors and pads squeak when I hit the brake or going cruise mode (35mph) ?? Front brakes on a 96 c1500
MexiKingiCon possibly? Depends on the brake as well. Will usually squeak early if they weren’t washed like comments say above.
Wolfman Jack Detroit axle brand brakes !! And we did not do any cleaning of the new brakes no ... so hopefully that’s why it squeaks and not something more serious
fell like more work got done in this episode then the last 5 combined
Good truck...and good job guys
Anyone else get some NAM flashbacks when he had his eye so close to that drum hardware when he was using the pliers? Not even utilizing safety squint.. I also like to live dangerously
"Truck Tech" is said to be the spiritual successor to "TRUCKS!".
Man. I wish this vid would have came out 2 weeks ago. Just did all this on my 92, and I needed some help lol
Great video you guys r bad ass technicians
Boutta do a ton of front end work. Did all the time up stuff myself it’s so easy to work on these trucks
Same with me. It's all I have left to do.
Yupp gotta love old chevys . Been working on a 00 sonoma recently . As simple as it gets .
@@dailydoseofpwnage ha! Been a minute since I left that comment. I rebuilt my front end with ACDelco professional and Proforged chromoly steel parts.
I would wear safety glasses around those brakes
Argh!!! Fram filters E3 spark plugs and lowering!!!! Makes me turn away!
I dont mind the lowering but the E3 garbage and Fram crap really soured my taste for this project
2014.
Its just a example obviously everybody has their preference
They lost me when they said they were lowering it.
my 90’s model got 362k😂 everything leaks and the tires are bo’ed out sittin on 12 wides. i think it’s fine
My 96 Chevy S1- ZR2 has 275000
My 99 Chevy Astro 4.3 has 360000
both are still daily drivers
Have nothing but respect they still running strong blessings to you and your family and the chevys
96 S10 4.3 265K
My 95 K-1500 has 273,220 miles and wifes 92 K-1500 has 210,000. Both are Z-71 one owner trucks.
Treat your car well, it will treat you well. Always amazes me that people lay out 30k+ for a car/truck, and treat it like it's disposable.
96 chevy Astro 4.3 Vortec has 260,000 daily it runs like a monster
You gotta love the bee gees
Did the pigtail for the speed sensor have bare wires showing?
Terance Yahize Yes
these guys do a good show
I have 350k on my 96 1500 with the 350 in it. The damn things just don’t die
Bryan Williams my 92 350 has a fracture in the block and still won’t leak😂 fucker just keeps going☠️
Didn't do that truck any justice using those pos fram filters.
Hastings & Wix are way better for econo brands. I've been using Royal Purple oil filters for the past 20 years, along with Valvoline full-synth oil.
Spot on.
Might as well screw an empty beer can on it.
@@ImTheJoker4u hell, an empty beer can would have been a better choice...Lol
You ain't kidding.
I've been using Fram for years and never had any issues.
It hurts me that right off the bat he calls it a turd.
At what point do you bleed the air from the wheel cylinders ?
After the drum is on the axle hub holding the shoes from spreading too far out.
Did it just bother me or did not cleaning the speed sensor and adjacent area not sit well, didn't even clean the electric connection?
That sensor should have been replaced and the connector cleaned.
Meta World Peace I would just do rear disk brakes make it easier
Nick webb where is the cheapest kit for rear disc brake conversion. I can't find anything cheaper than $1200
kevin Pratt if you search 88-98 cK truck rear disk conversion you can find them for under 500 dollars
No way what sites??
So , E3/Fram paid for this episode.
Buff Barnaby and autozone
I bought one of these with 223k and I had to replace the actual distributor itself to get it to run right. Just doing the cap and plug wires didn't help. The magnets on the shaft itself must have cracked or something, it started running terrible one day. Surprised they didn't do it on that one.
Chevy used a funky pick up there.. The ready to run MSD distrib is a really nice upgrade.
Lmfao he said " befor we modify anything on this TURD !!!!!"
It must be an old english word for Chevy I guess.
Hey the 93 Silverado was already a great truck.
How do I plug the brake line so it won't leak?
What is the proper preload on the front wheel bearing, "until your happy", makes no sense to a newbe?
To stop the flow of the fuid, You'll want to use a brake hose clamping tool.
If you use clamping pliers there's a good chance it will damage the hose.
Here's a link I found on Google.
www.amazon.com/Lisle-22850-Hose-Pincher/dp/B0002NYB78/ref=asc_df_B0002NYB78/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312177448019&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6461179899196065781&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014185&hvtargid=pla-436286796225&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61495038909&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312177448019&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6461179899196065781&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014185&hvtargid=pla-436286796225
For the front wheel bearing preload, it does come down to experience. :(
It's best to have an old timer show you how it's done in person.
But basically do what they did here with tightening it then you back off a bit and then tighten with your fingers as tight as possible. You don't want drag on the bearing and yet you don't want it to be loos. It's hard to explain without a hand on.
I wish I can explain it better.
A B thanks for the help, I really appreciate your answer.
Great video
Imma take notes for my obs with 300k
i wouldnt take many they did a piss poor job
I like these host better than the new ones. But nothing beats stacey David's laff
Or his mullet.
I went to replace axle seals and bearings on my 89 Chevy. The 8mm retaining bolt that holds the pin in twisted off where the smooth part of the bolt meets the threads. How do you get the remaining part of the threads out? I bought and tried a left hand drill bit hoping the cutting edges would cut and hang into the remaining threaded part enough to turn them out but the housing sticks out past the hole so you can't drill straight into it. Drills at an angle and wants to cut into the threads and not into end of bolt. Argghh!!
that many miles and they didn't even replace the distributor gear which is the most common problem with the cam correlation code nor did they replace the fuel filter or the rear axle bearings with that many miles
@lSTICKYFINGERSl I have fixed hundreds of these with worn distributor gears a majority of the time the check engine light will be on with no signs of a problem believe what you want I know I'm right
@lSTICKYFINGERSl p1345 1994 up
@lSTICKYFINGERSl OBD1 flash codes 12,17 or 41
@lSTICKYFINGERSl because if you are rehabbing a Truck and replacing common failure components that particular part in my experience is the most common and failure prone part.In the late 90s I done these multiple times in a week every week.
@lSTICKYFINGERSl u dont need to worry about tdc. note where the roter is pointing when you pull it and reinstall with it in the same spot. i can have a 12yr old do it
So my cousin installed some new brake pads and rotors on my 96 c1500, but they started to make a squeaking sound when I hit the brake or if I’m going slow .. Detroit axle brand Nd they are organic .
Did my cousin miss something or does the organic and semi metallic make a difference as he says it will with the squeaking noises ..? I need answers lol
I do the same with cars or trucks with serpentine belt set up I don't throw away the belt I leave it in the trunk or laying around in the truck bed, even with the v belts I only keep one, the most important one, the water pump and anternator belt that will get me moving home or to the auto parts store
i cut some of those fram filters in half one half and each one had rust in it
I checked about 15 Fram oil filters at a Pep Boys once, and every single one of them had rust on the exposed metal between the gasket and threads; bad enough that I could scrape some off with more under that. This happened maybe 22 years ago and haven't bought a Fram product since.
I was diggin this resto video until they threw in the lowering kit.
Do it right and clean off the speed sensor, and repair the exposed wire. C'mon guys, do it right!
You never see c/k1500s that clean in Minnesota.
nice repairs
You need safety glasses or a face shield with the springs and crud that can fly in the eye...
Or at least deploy the safety squint.
they didnt do the universal joint or rear tailshaft seal
Why not clean the speed sensor completely or just replace it? That old it's gonna fail soon anyway. And why didn't they replace that connector? That bare wire is a short waiting to happen.
Yikes! On the front wheel bearing torque or lack thereof. You have to use a torque wrench (something like 10 ft lbs) on the front wheel bearing spindle nut to seat the bearings and then loosen and just go finger tight before inserting the cotter pin. Good way to smoke a bearing and spindle is to skip the torque wrench and just "think you feel" the correct torque. You know like, "using The Force" instead of a torque wrench. Also, the idler pulleys usually go bad before or after 100K miles depending on idle time. Once one of those pulleys lock up, or fall off it will toast the serp belt. No one ever shows adding the rear differential gear oil additive for the limited slip rear ends which is the norm differential in most light trucks. I use the 7 ounce tubes they sell at Auto Zone and other places. Works great with just two quarts gear oil which puts it near full to the fill hole. Noticed if it isn't added, after a drive, you get a huge amount of large gear oil bubbles and foaming that will spill out of the fill hole if you pull the fill plug.
intake gaskets tend to b prone to coolant leaks
Would it have killed you to put on new dust caps.
Didn't lube backing plate?
Where was this 2 years ago. You don't know how sunken in I already am.
260k miles but let’s not bother replacing the timing chain or water pump or thermostat or rad hoses or do a rad flush...just do the brakes and steering linkage and throw a set of plugs at it!
Do yall have a video on how to replace the ignition switch and steering wheel on a 95 Chevy 1500 or know of the best video on here?
End of the axle shaft usaully the trick the first time with removing seal.
Don't worry about the grease and oil on the drums and rotors that stuff won't hurt a thing. 🙄
I will watch this any day over those clowns from roadkill. So tired of hearing “because roadkill!” And “mint”
Sounds like the announcer finally got a throat lozenge. He sounds much better. Lol
they still make e3 spark plugs!?!? jeesus thought they went under ear year year ago
Old video
Oh God why would they put Fram filters and e3 spark plugs in it
Must be nice to live down south where you still have a truck to work on after 20+ years. In New England, you'd be able to throw a cat through the rust holes in the bedsides and the cab corners wouldn't exist.
Truck Tech - How can we ruin this nice old Chevy worktruck? Lowering kit of course.
Puts on spring with no safety glasses. Haha no safety glasses for anything.
First thing, change out those TBI heads......
i see so many 90's Chevy pickups being used by DOT workers.
No need to take out the spider gears.
First thing I thought too, that c-clip will come right out of there, leave those gears alone!
Not a big deal. Sometimes they fall out with the shaft. It's idiot prof on install as well.
What that truck do to yall to deserve those fram filters? Dont use fram
Why and why am I seeing lots of negative comments about Fram? Been using it since 1994 with zero problems.
My God you guys worry about damn filters. Are Fram the best? No. Will they cause your engine to explode? No. Millions of cars have driven billions of miles using Fram filters. All of this hand wringing over stupid filters is exactly that, STUPID. Oh, and I'd take the net worth of the guy who owns Fram over the net worth of any of you filter snobs commenting here.
They use whatever company that will pay the sponsorship for the show.
That bare wire at the speed sensor
Those 350s don’t like e3 spark plugs
I had a physical reaction to "Duralast"
Putting in seals with a hammer ? SAFETY GLASSES !!! FUCK IT . Recorded in Cuba