OMG YOU BLEW MY ENTIRE FREAKING MIND RIGHT NOW. I just had my brakes changed and the mechanic was telling me, you can't do it yourself cuz you don't have this tool to move the circle thing you just turned with needle nose pliers!! I have a whole bunch of needle nose pliers. Thank you so much for this video!!! I don't even want to get into the nightmare it was to change the brakes on that car. Ended up needing a new caliper and he broke the rear brake sensor. Which is why I'm here. I plugged in my ODB2 and it's telling me I have low brake fluid and something about the brake sensor not being present. So I'm gonna do the work myself cuz at least I give a fuck about my car and not about making the most amount of money on an easy job.
Great video. The needle nose pliers trick to turn in the brake piston was genius. I watched several other videos and yours was the only one that mentioned this. Saved me the time and money of having to buy the tool that other videos recommended. One note: I was able to remove my wear sensor without issue, but it still needs to be replaced as the metal loop will be worn through activating the brake replacement light.
@@markevans2427 Don’t knock it until you try it. The needle nose pliers worked perfectly for me, but I would agree with you if the pistons were seized or stuck. Worth noting is my Mini is a 2012, so it’s got quite a few years in it, though I confess I take very good care of it.
Thanks! I didnt know that brake piston needed to be screwed back in to get clearance for the new pads. I kept trying to push it back in before looking here. ;)
Great video, thanks so much! I did my rear right break pads and rotor. rewind the piston back was a night mare! After re connect the sensor, the light on dashboard didn't goes off. does it need any other reset? Cheeers
Seen other videos that says that you do not need to remove the parking brake cable, and others where there was a spring at the back that needed removal, kind of confuse
Hey guys. So I'm getting a use mini Cooper 2012 is my first mini it has 100 miles after seeing to many reviews some are bad and some are good. Any tips ?
no rotor sanding or change need it? maybe was just the sensors that brought the brakes lights on? in other words, should we replace sensors, pads, and rotors. or avoid as you did. Maybe I didn't see it. Thanks for your video
36K on the rear would be premature unless it was raced and aggressively barked, someone "rode" the brakes, or the pads were inferior--you would know this because of excessive brake dust. I use ceramic. Depending on who you consult, front/rear brake bias can be as high as 70/30%. So premature rear brake wear could be indicative of stiff or stuck sliders.
When I did my brake pads I realized too late that one of the front four is different. It has a slot designed to allow a sensor to fit into it. I have to take the pads off the first wheel I did in order to find it and put it in the right spot. Which is on the inside pad of the left front wheel. I also noticed that a small container of lubricant (kind of like a ketchup packet) came with the pads. It is for lubricating the slot in which the pads move.
Thanks for the great video you made :) just one question. You just screwed the piston in? Or did you removed some brake fluid before, to make some room? Thank you very much
Great question. I this case no brake fluid was removed, because it has never been added to this car. In your case, if your fluid have been topped off by your service dealer you may need to extract some fluid from the reservoir when turning the piston into the Caliper to prevent some spillage.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech hello again. Today I managed to finish the work, but was no that easy as it seems. The right side went through perfectly, but the left rear side made me some troubles. Screwing the piston in is ok only for the rear right side where the sensor is. The left rear one did not went in with turning. So I was forced to open the valve, leave some fluid out and than press the piston in, mm by mm. Maybe this would be useful for others who will try to do the work.
Lol. The fluid will fill the reservoir back up unless you added fluid. Notice the level before you start. It’s a tool to show brake wear. Low equals pad wear. Full equals good pads. Never add fluid. It’s for changing only. Always change fluid about every 30-50 k. Saves calipers.
Hey man you didn't clean or copper grease the slider pins or shims. It should have been done on that motor because there is rust build up on the shims & more than likely the pins will be filthy too! I'd be fumming if a garage did that to my brakes...that's why I always do my own.
And also on the caliper where it contacts the outer pad back plate. I've watched several videos on this subject and not one of them use grease. If you're doing a video on how to do a task, then do it properly!
Super useful video. thanks. I'll be changing my wife's mini brake pads and your video was an eye opener, since I didn't want to damage the sensors. btw What kind of camera do you use. the image is super crisp and sharp.
Great Vid in real world - Thanks. Question - After refitting does the system rewind the piston to take up the slack by itself, or do you pull handbrake or just pump pedal please?
OMG YOU BLEW MY ENTIRE FREAKING MIND RIGHT NOW.
I just had my brakes changed and the mechanic was telling me, you can't do it yourself cuz you don't have this tool to move the circle thing you just turned with needle nose pliers!! I have a whole bunch of needle nose pliers.
Thank you so much for this video!!!
I don't even want to get into the nightmare it was to change the brakes on that car. Ended up needing a new caliper and he broke the rear brake sensor. Which is why I'm here. I plugged in my ODB2 and it's telling me I have low brake fluid and something about the brake sensor not being present. So I'm gonna do the work myself cuz at least I give a fuck about my car and not about making the most amount of money on an easy job.
Great video. The needle nose pliers trick to turn in the brake piston was genius. I watched several other videos and yours was the only one that mentioned this. Saved me the time and money of having to buy the tool that other videos recommended. One note: I was able to remove my wear sensor without issue, but it still needs to be replaced as the metal loop will be worn through activating the brake replacement light.
👍
should only use the correct tool.that was total abuse to the pliers and may have damaged the piston so the correct tool can no longer be used
@@markevans2427 Don’t knock it until you try it. The needle nose pliers worked perfectly for me, but I would agree with you if the pistons were seized or stuck. Worth noting is my Mini is a 2012, so it’s got quite a few years in it, though I confess I take very good care of it.
Nicely shot, narrated and edited, thank you my friend.
Wipl be attempting this tomorrow. Thanks for the video. Will watch a few more times to document the steps.
Open your Brake Reservoir, it will release pressure and make things easier for you.
Thanks for the video. First time doing mini brakes and did not want to damage the sensor. Thanks again!
Very useful thank you ! Is there also another sensor on the left rear brake?
Thanks! I didnt know that brake piston needed to be screwed back in to get clearance for the new pads. I kept trying to push it back in before looking here. ;)
me too
Why did you take the handbrake cable off? Why did you unclip the other sensor?
Thank you brutha; great tutorial video, especially the trick with screwing the brake caliper back in with the needle nose pliers. Kul jams!
Before anyone attempts this buy a wind back tool for the Piston in the rear caliper. Makes the job x10 times easier
Be aware the aluminum cube wind back blocks are quite fragile and can break.
Great video, thanks so much! I did my rear right break pads and rotor. rewind the piston back was a night mare! After re connect the sensor, the light on dashboard didn't goes off. does it need any other reset? Cheeers
There is a procedure to reset the light, off the top of my head I cant remember it.
So the electronic brake pad sensor only goes on the passenger side?
Seen other videos that says that you do not need to remove the parking brake cable, and others where there was a spring at the back that needed removal, kind of confuse
Hey guys. So I'm getting a use mini Cooper 2012 is my first mini it has 100 miles after seeing to many reviews some are bad and some are good. Any tips ?
no rotor sanding or change need it? maybe was just the sensors that brought the brakes lights on? in other words, should we replace sensors, pads, and rotors. or avoid as you did. Maybe I didn't see it. Thanks for your video
Pad sensors worn = brake lamp. Rotors where within thickness specifications.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Thank you.
I have a 2014 Mini Cooper Countryman JCW and the link to Amazon says it doesn't fit my car
My wife's 2017 Mini has 36k miles on it and the rear brake pads need changing out. Is this normal wear?
Totally normal. You should be on your second set of tires .
36K on the rear would be premature unless it was raced and aggressively barked, someone "rode" the brakes, or the pads were inferior--you would know this because of excessive brake dust. I use ceramic. Depending on who you consult, front/rear brake bias can be as high as 70/30%. So premature rear brake wear could be indicative of stiff or stuck sliders.
Pushing in doesn't it work or what happens if you push it on any idea?
If your talking about the rear caliper , it has to turn. Pushing it will or forcing it will break it.
Where can I get the tool
Is this the same for the F56?
Is it the same on both rear wheels? No sensor up front?
When I did my brake pads I realized too late that one of the front four is different. It has a slot designed to allow a sensor to fit into it. I have to take the pads off the first wheel I did in order to find it and put it in the right spot. Which is on the inside pad of the left front wheel. I also noticed that a small container of lubricant (kind of like a ketchup packet) came with the pads. It is for lubricating the slot in which the pads move.
its for the bolts anti lock lube
@@carsandtrains6366 Your response would have been helpful six months ago when I posted my comment.
Did you grind the rotors? If not did you have an issue with pulsing at all?
Rotors did not need to be resurfaced. No brake pulsation
Nice tutorial. Thanks man.
Thanks for the great video you made :) just one question. You just screwed the piston in? Or did you removed some brake fluid before, to make some room? Thank you very much
Great question. I this case no brake fluid was removed, because it has never been added to this car. In your case, if your fluid have been topped off by your service dealer you may need to extract some fluid from the reservoir when turning the piston into the Caliper to prevent some spillage.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech thank you very much :)
@@Donnythelatemodeltech hello again. Today I managed to finish the work, but was no that easy as it seems. The right side went through perfectly, but the left rear side made me some troubles. Screwing the piston in is ok only for the rear right side where the sensor is. The left rear one did not went in with turning. So I was forced to open the valve, leave some fluid out and than press the piston in, mm by mm. Maybe this would be useful for others who will try to do the work.
@@goraninox maybe the other piston turns the opposite way. Often they do.
Lol. The fluid will fill the reservoir back up unless you added fluid. Notice the level before you start. It’s a tool to show brake wear. Low equals pad wear. Full equals good pads. Never add fluid. It’s for changing only. Always change fluid about every 30-50 k. Saves calipers.
Hey man you didn't clean or copper grease the slider pins or shims. It should have been done on that motor because there is rust build up on the shims & more than likely the pins will be filthy too! I'd be fumming if a garage did that to my brakes...that's why I always do my own.
And also on the caliper where it contacts the outer pad back plate. I've watched several videos on this subject and not one of them use grease. If you're doing a video on how to do a task, then do it properly!
Only thing i would grease would be the slide pins. These are fine. Again brand new cars dont have grease anywhere but on the slide pins.
Very helpful indeed! Thank you
Super useful video. thanks. I'll be changing my wife's mini brake pads and your video was an eye opener, since I didn't want to damage the sensors. btw What kind of camera do you use. the image is super crisp and sharp.
Most welcome. Camera is a Panasonic g7.
Great Vid in real world - Thanks. Question - After refitting does the system rewind the piston to take up the slack by itself, or do you pull handbrake or just pump pedal please?
It's automatic .👍
You dont have to move the parking brake cable
Ahh the sensor pad is slotted to accept the the sensor and it's on the inside pad. thanks..
🤘
Just pull that brake wear sensor out of the brake pad. Its so much easier
🤙
Good job. Thanks.
or.... $200 at the dealer and you saved yourself half a day of hustle and got OEM components ;)
For a couple of hours and $160 in my pocket I don't mind, of course I know how to work with tools.
Love it, thanks sammy for commenting.
@@kccryptkeeper4874 agree it's a simple task. by the way if sensor isn't worn it's pretty easy to save it and re-use.
I literally just back from the dealer and they quoted me over $700 +tax to replace rear brakes & sensors.... which is why I am watching this video :)
I can't use the restroom at my mini dealer for under $200
👍💪