I can’t believe it. I changed front discs on front of wife’s Mini. She didn’t like the look of rust on the old discs so I smeared plenty of copper grease on the new discs to prevent rust. Now she’s saying the brakes don’t work too well. Do you think I have got air in the system?
Hello A F. Lots of good info thanks. Doing the same task on 2018 Countryman JCW. Btw, you would like it. My wife ordered cloth sport seats, manual `box, no cursed sunroof, in Lapis Blue, no other colour on roof, no model name on rear hatch, black light surrounds. One little issue. On dozens of sport or race bikes and some Porsches, we have always done the pad running -in as follows: Drive around trying to avoid hard braking. At the same time while just cruising, gently apply the brakes for two seconds, repeat 4 times then let brakes cool a few mins. Repeat routine about 5 times. That's it. I should mention I always lightly use 600 grit sandpaper on the disks to freshen the surface, then wash the disc and calliper with brake cleaner. I like to clean callipers before retracting pistons. Works every time, even on top level race bikes. I'm sure your system works, I just can't cook new brake pads with all that heavy stopping. Good luck.
Leon, thanks for sharing your technique. I have also heard of people sanding down the initial layer or new brake pads to help with the bedding process. Perhaps the next time, I will try your technique.
Thank you for watching. I reused the caliper bolts. I would suggest replacing them if you're frequently changing out pads. Otherwise, a one-time reuse isn't going to cause issues.
great video - if you are replacing the pads, you can push the piston back using a screwdriver, by carefully wedging it between the rotor and pad. push into the pad, not the rotor. this will make getting the caliper off easier also. for breaking in, do nothing but drive normally. most pads and rotors these days have an initial coating that does the break with normal driving. i did not see any lube for the pins - is this not needed for the rears?
Thanks for the input John. There's definitely more than one way to complete this DIY. As far as lube for the pins go, you're 100% correct. That's a minor part of the process that I left out. I can also add that in conjunction with greasing the pins, you should also sand them down with a fine grit rated sand paper.
I just did my 2017 Mini Countryman All4S... took me about 3 hours... hahaha. First time changing pads. BMW/Mini wants $1K. Nope. Second wheel took me 2 hours. Part of the time is thinking out loud so that I don't make a mistake etc. Part of the time was figuring how to jack up the mini without a catastrophe. The brake pads I bought for the front looked identical to the ones that I am replacing and it took a while for me to push them into the caliper bracket. I don't know if that is normal... but it is pretty snug. It took me a while before the pads were in place. A little late now but I have needed to take bracket off and clean the pad area with a wire brush etc. I will need to understand about "bed the pads". My front brakes were from Duralast. I got the same caliper set from Harbor Freight; cost me $39 in the east coast. I like that it is in a case but if you want to go cheap you can use a big C clamp up against the back of the cylinder and screw handle put an old brake pad push the screw part up against the piston that way. Another thing I did also was short out the brake sensor..
Hey Sam, it looks like you learned a few things here and there for your 1st pad change. Trust me, I went through the same processes when I started working on cars.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Thanks for your reply. Yeah ... putting the car on the lift is great...but if $1K motivates someone to do the brakes themselves... ALL GOOD. One other question for you: I have wheel locks from BMW and it appears I (as I took off the 2 front ones before going to the back tires) must have stripped the key as the key now slips. Mini/BMW wants $69 for a new matching key... and yet the whole set of wheel lock nuts and key will cost you $40. Anything you can think of to help me there?
@@samsnow7370 I'm sorry to hear about the stripped wheel bolt lock. A local friend of mine had the same issue. The only thing I could think of, was to drill a hole into the lock and back it out with a reverse bit. Otherwise, you'll be stuck paying $69 for a new set.
Thank you for the video! PS. I haven’t found a mechanic who will replace my brake pads for less than $400. Everyone wants me to pay $700 (small shop) to $1,100 (dealer) to replace my pads and rotors.
Fantastic video! I will say, though; if it's your first time wrenching, you're not gonna be done in 30 minutes. Plan in a good few hours, just to be sure. You're likely to come across some rusted fasteners.
Thanks Michelle for the input. You're right...in any automotive DIY, something always seems to come up. Can this DIY be completed in 30mins, yes...could you run into any issues, absolutely so prepare.
Thanks for sharing video! I noticed looks like you have coilovers what brand and is there any rubbing on rear fender? I have a 15mm spacer and running 19x8 oz racing thanks
Hello Andrew, on the Countryman that I performed the pad change on, the coilovers are GodSpeed MonoMaxx. With the OEM rims, there is no rubbing. With your current setup, it really depends on the rim's ET. If you have a higher offset, say ET40, you might be able to get away with a 19x8 rim running 15mm spacers.
C R, I generally do not replace my sensors as I am careful when they are being removed. However, to a new DIYer who's never replaced the rear pads before, this could prove to be tough. If the wear sensor needs to be replaced, you have to dig into the side panels as it's well protected.
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Your voice is very soothing and reassuring that I will not mess anything up.
Thanks for watching and the support!
Two or three things you said about this job in this video saved me life while retracting my pistons! Thanks man!
I am glad you found some advice to help you. Cheers!
By far the most professional well put together mini repair video!!!! Thanks for doing this, really helped me out a lot!!!
I appreciate you watching and the support! Cheers!
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
I can’t believe it. I changed front discs on front of wife’s Mini. She didn’t like the look of rust on the old discs so I smeared plenty of copper grease on the new discs to prevent rust. Now she’s saying the brakes don’t work too well. Do you think I have got air in the system?
Thank you .I looked at 4 others , Yours was the most helpful.
I'm glad you found my video useful. Cheers!
Hello A F. Lots of good info thanks. Doing the same task on 2018 Countryman JCW. Btw, you would like it. My wife ordered cloth sport seats, manual `box, no cursed sunroof, in Lapis Blue, no other colour on roof, no model name on rear hatch, black light surrounds.
One little issue. On dozens of sport or race bikes and some Porsches, we have always done the pad running -in as follows: Drive around trying to avoid hard braking. At the same time while just cruising, gently apply the brakes for two seconds, repeat 4 times then let brakes cool a few mins. Repeat routine about 5 times. That's it. I should mention I always lightly use 600 grit sandpaper on the disks to freshen the surface, then wash the disc and calliper with brake cleaner. I like to clean callipers before retracting pistons. Works every time, even on top level race bikes. I'm sure your system works, I just can't cook new brake pads with all that heavy stopping. Good luck.
Leon, thanks for sharing your technique. I have also heard of people sanding down the initial layer or new brake pads to help with the bedding process. Perhaps the next time, I will try your technique.
Did you have to do any resurfacing on the rotors?
No, nowadays, rotors are so cheap, people opt to buy new ones instead of resurfacing them and decreasing the minimum safety width.
Hi there, great video. Any information on what the original issue with the driver side rear pads was? You mentioned they wore down prematurely.
Sorry, I never figured out what caused one of the pads to wear faster than the other side.
Definitely thanks for the video, huge help!!
I'm glad my video was of some use to you.
Thanks for the video. Did you reuse the caliper bolts or is it important to replace them with new ones?
Thank you for watching. I reused the caliper bolts. I would suggest replacing them if you're frequently changing out pads. Otherwise, a one-time reuse isn't going to cause issues.
No brake pumping required after the pads replacement?
Thank you for that question...Yes, PUMP your brake pedal a few times to build pressure before driving off.
great video - if you are replacing the pads, you can push the piston back using a screwdriver, by carefully wedging it between the rotor and pad. push into the pad, not the rotor. this will make getting the caliper off easier also. for breaking in, do nothing but drive normally. most pads and rotors these days have an initial coating that does the break with normal driving. i did not see any lube for the pins - is this not needed for the rears?
Thanks for the input John. There's definitely more than one way to complete this DIY. As far as lube for the pins go, you're 100% correct. That's a minor part of the process that I left out. I can also add that in conjunction with greasing the pins, you should also sand them down with a fine grit rated sand paper.
Thank you🤙🏻
Can I use a c clamp to push the piston back or no?
Yes you can, but I would suggest placing a thin, flat piece of wood between the piston and your clamp.
Or just use the old pad instead of a piece of wood.
Thank you awesome video you the man
Thank you for watching and the support!
Can I try this technique on 2010 Mini Cooper clubman S and what’s a good source to order parts please?
Jillian, this technique will work on your Clubman. As far as parts go, if you're in the States, try ECS Tuning or FCP Euro.
Will this work for a 2013 Cooper 2D, that isn’t an S? I have a regular Mini Cooper and my back left brake pad is basically none existent.
Yes, this DIY should work fine for your 13' Cooper 2D.
I just did my 2017 Mini Countryman All4S... took me about 3 hours... hahaha. First time changing pads. BMW/Mini wants $1K. Nope. Second wheel took me 2 hours. Part of the time is thinking out loud so that I don't make a mistake etc. Part of the time was figuring how to jack up the mini without a catastrophe. The brake pads I bought for the front looked identical to the ones that I am replacing and it took a while for me to push them into the caliper bracket. I don't know if that is normal... but it is pretty snug. It took me a while before the pads were in place. A little late now but I have needed to take bracket off and clean the pad area with a wire brush etc. I will need to understand about "bed the pads". My front brakes were from Duralast. I got the same caliper set from Harbor Freight; cost me $39 in the east coast. I like that it is in a case but if you want to go cheap you can use a big C clamp up against the back of the cylinder and screw handle put an old brake pad push the screw part up against the piston that way. Another thing I did also was short out the brake sensor..
Hey Sam, it looks like you learned a few things here and there for your 1st pad change. Trust me, I went through the same processes when I started working on cars.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Thanks for your reply. Yeah ... putting the car on the lift is great...but if $1K motivates someone to do the brakes themselves... ALL GOOD. One other question for you: I have wheel locks from BMW and it appears I (as I took off the 2 front ones before going to the back tires) must have stripped the key as the key now slips. Mini/BMW wants $69 for a new matching key... and yet the whole set of wheel lock nuts and key will cost you $40. Anything you can think of to help me there?
@@samsnow7370 I'm sorry to hear about the stripped wheel bolt lock. A local friend of mine had the same issue. The only thing I could think of, was to drill a hole into the lock and back it out with a reverse bit. Otherwise, you'll be stuck paying $69 for a new set.
Where did you buy the brake pad at what website please ?
I simply bought these pads from my local auto parts store; Autozone, O'Reilly, Advanced Auto, etc.
C-clamp and the old pad has worked for me forever.
I've heard others using the same method with great success.
Thank you for the video! PS. I haven’t found a mechanic who will replace my brake pads for less than $400. Everyone wants me to pay $700 (small shop) to $1,100 (dealer) to replace my pads and rotors.
I hope this video does help you as paying close to $1K for a pad/rotor job is highway robbery!
Fantastic video! I will say, though; if it's your first time wrenching, you're not gonna be done in 30 minutes. Plan in a good few hours, just to be sure. You're likely to come across some rusted fasteners.
Thanks Michelle for the input. You're right...in any automotive DIY, something always seems to come up. Can this DIY be completed in 30mins, yes...could you run into any issues, absolutely so prepare.
Thanks for your video! 🙏🏾
Thank you for watching and the support!
This is what you got after an s3?
Jon E, no. Check out videos from last year and you'll see what I own.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic I saw some Porsche vids after the fact?
@@Raudi_5pot you got it! And a separate Track Weapon.
Thanks for sharing video! I noticed looks like you have coilovers what brand and is there any rubbing on rear fender? I have a 15mm spacer and running 19x8 oz racing thanks
Hello Andrew, on the Countryman that I performed the pad change on, the coilovers are GodSpeed MonoMaxx. With the OEM rims, there is no rubbing. With your current setup, it really depends on the rim's ET. If you have a higher offset, say ET40, you might be able to get away with a 19x8 rim running 15mm spacers.
Not helpful if the sensor wasn't replaced.
C R, I generally do not replace my sensors as I am careful when they are being removed. However, to a new DIYer who's never replaced the rear pads before, this could prove to be tough. If the wear sensor needs to be replaced, you have to dig into the side panels as it's well protected.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Excellent point