Im a pro solder guy, reparing all kind of stuff. Liked when you said "yikes" when you where done soldering, because it was real. But for a fast job like showing us how its really done, its okay haha.
Sadly i dont think they will add the option of adding an non bambu lab camera. But we have you to show us how its done ! :D Keep going with thies awesome videoes. Sor sure gonna help a lot of ppl!
@@jayjaythezeybork9853 aww thank you so much I really appreciate it! Yeah normally I like my clean solder joints and I do SMT down to 0201s without hot air fairly well but recording it makes it 10x harder, I’ve gained a lot of respect for ones like DosDude that make it seem so easy recorded
Being proudly neurodivergent, it's great to see I'm not the only person that sees the world through these "what-if" eyes. Well done. And as my first stop by your channel, I'll be keeping an eye on your work going forward.
I swore everyone thought this way growing up until I questioned it and explaining my what ifs only to be asked what’s wrong with me… what a strange world we live in
I would be curious as well but unfortunately I don’t have an A1… I have been tempted by the A1 Mini but I don’t really have space for more printers right now
@@AndreiAldeayou can buy a spare camera from bambu directly. Which I might do. I wonder if the camera is the reason the A1/P1 is so bad, or it's something on the motherboard. Would be funny if the camera itself is the issue, and replacing the camera with something else fixed it.
@@into-the-mild If you look at Andrei's footage with the bambu camera wired to usb and being used as a webcam, the FPS issue at least seems to have been solved. I'm actually thinking about using the bambu camera usb'd to a pi zero for this reason. Got to be worth a try.
@johnbeer4963 what I ended up doing, is getting a TPLink C100 or similar cheap camera and mounting it to the side with a bracket you can print. It's a way cheaper and easier solution.
Hmm,. the green reminds me of the older cheap usb camera when you had to change setting for de-interlacing rates. Probably from the bambu camera driver they are using. since it is just linux after all. Now if the driver was UVC compliant it wold be neat to wire up one of my thermal cameras 😂 You could monitor how certain materials cool down to much and warp like nylon PA6
the official reason is, that the P1 has limited processing power, so it can't handle the higher data rate - but maybe the camera still can be replaced the same way, if the camera has a low enough data rate
its literally the same camera module in the P1S as the X1C, as previously stated, you wont get a better frame rate out of it due to processing power limitations.
Yeah if you're trying to do that something like a Logitech C920 is probably your best bet. I would try to pick up a used one off Facebook Marketplace or something for cheap, no sense in paying full price.
@@wscottfunk the Soldering iron is called a Pinecil from Pine64 and for $26 it blows $100+ soldering irons out of the water (just make sure you use a good USB-C PD power supply with it) and the helping hands are called the Omni Fixo and they are by far the nicest, Tested did a video on them a while ago and they’re worth every penny. If I had to get those all over again I would. Don’t bother with the cheaper stuff it will save you a lot of frustration. The soldering iron especially is an absolute bargain
But… when you connected the Bambu camera to the computer there was nothing wrong with the image, so the problem we see is from elsewhere, right? (One of my X1C just started having this issue, hence I’m interested in the reason. Seems more like sw-related)
@@Mr.X3D it could be but for me the issue always happens once the chamber heats up, swapping the sensor with the new one has it working fine so I assume something is cooking that sensor over time….
my camera started to have the same problem , when you First switch on the picture is o.k , but slowly more and more gets added to the image , at First I thought it was something to do with being on a different vlan , but work out it's the camera when heated up.
@@vash469 if it’s usb still it might but work at a reduced frame rate or it will drop frames. Not sure, I don’t have a P1S unfortunately. If you’re fine with not using the native app for monitoring a WiFi camera might be easier/better for that.
@@AndreiAldea I have a tapo c110 I use but trying to find a good position for it all the prints I'm finding aren't very good angles....just good for overall monitoring
same camera module in both. hence, unfortunately, you're right about the lacking processing power. should still be possible to swap in another camera with compatible specs, but you wont get much better output.
@@cowabungacrypto not Sony ones, it would have to be a camera that supports outputting USB Video out in a way that it acts as a standard USB cam. That’s why the Osmo Pocket worked
@@RaleighLittles Yes, USB Type-C has two CC lines that are used for negotiating power transfer in normal Power Delivery applications. Those lines can also be used in a legacy “dumb” mode where you just put a resistor on each line tied to the 5V line to indicate the type of device you are connecting. 56K ohms is “standard” for 500mA default power, while commonly you’ll see 5.1K which tells the power adapter on the other end that the device is a 5V 3A sink. Normally USB-A to C cables have these 2 resistors built-in to make them work since the CC thing wasn’t a thing when USB-A was first created, but USB-C to USB-C cables assume that the device on either end does the signaling. Hence by using an adapter we’re basically just providing those resistors so that the USB-C end can negotiate the correct power. If you’re using only USB Type-A then none of this applies, 5V is just always supplied.
It could be my fault but I don't understand this logic. You change the camera, but you wanna keep the printer's data transfer chain. Why is that? Your camera is outside of the box, and it's an independent device, why would you want to connect it to bambu? Just because you can? Use your own video data transfer method, wifi, ethernet, USB2 or 3 or HDMI or whatever you want.
And another problem is the lighting. Very important in photography, when you want HQ picture/video. Switch off the Bambu's own LED (you don't want to look into the Sun), and build your own LED lighting stripe into the upper frame, you can find many solutions in the Makerworld.
@@telelaci2 There’s a few cases where something like this might make sense to do: 1. Your Bambu camera dies (like mine) and you want to replace it without buying a new Bambu sensor 2. You want a different camera angle and/or better quality (which even the C920 gives you) while still being able to use the native Bambu App for monitoring on your phone remotely and the native Timelapse feature. Using “my own transfer method” would imply having to setup another device to monitor it that’s not tied into the Bambu app, probably a pi or other Linux box whatever. Lighting and camera angle you can play with like anything else, ideally yeah you’d turn off the Bambu light and setup strips optimally for your camera setup, but you can do that with this just fine.
@@AndreiAldea OK but a Bambu Chamber Camera replacement for X1C is 54 EUR/$ 50, it's definitely cheaper than an Logitech C920/C922, not mentioning a GoPro or a DSLR or mirrorless pro cameras you tested. You are not cheaper but more expensive. And you needed many gadgets also, a camera tripod, USB cable, plug converters, dongle. Add it up don't be shy. You will be over $ 100.
@@AndreiAldea The weakest link of the Bambu's Data stream is the bandwitdth, 2.4GHz wifi. You can't change that (maybe later with the Crowdsupply X1Plus for $125). And it limits your quality badly, whatever camera you use. They should've put a gigabit ethernet in the printer, but they wanted to save money. Meh. And I wouldn't name the half green screen a better quality, but faulty instead. Bambu's firmware can't handle that camera properly. So I think the idea was very good, it was worth a try, but it failed, you couldn't achieve the goal. Be honest to yourself. Sorry for the criticism.
The half green is the output of the camera being 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 instead of 4:4:4 that the printer expects. Many USB cameras don't offer 4:4:4/RGB.
What does 4:4:4 mean?
Do you think its possible to make it a 4:2:2 upscale to a 4:4:4
Try webcams that are interlaced. I think it will drop the green area.
A lot of old ones are.
Auto focus having the fight of it's life this video
@@MaxCastles you know, I’m learning people who make videos that involve macro-ish shots are patient saints lol
@@AndreiAldea Or have cameras with manual focus rings lol
@@GridPB I do, shallow focus is a b even at F6+ on a 40ish mm lens full frame
dancing to the music.
Hey dude, thanks for the video, very interesting. Would you be considered to reduce music volume because I can't hear you, it's very loud
I’ll do that in future videos… still getting used to editing sound
THIS is the first time seeing you. absolutely love you knowledge! +1 SUB you are awesome
Im a pro solder guy, reparing all kind of stuff. Liked when you said "yikes" when you where done soldering, because it was real. But for a fast job like showing us how its really done, its okay haha.
Sadly i dont think they will add the option of adding an non bambu lab camera. But we have you to show us how its done ! :D Keep going with thies awesome videoes. Sor sure gonna help a lot of ppl!
@@jayjaythezeybork9853 aww thank you so much I really appreciate it!
Yeah normally I like my clean solder joints and I do SMT down to 0201s without hot air fairly well but recording it makes it 10x harder, I’ve gained a lot of respect for ones like DosDude that make it seem so easy recorded
Being proudly neurodivergent, it's great to see I'm not the only person that sees the world through these "what-if" eyes. Well done. And as my first stop by your channel, I'll be keeping an eye on your work going forward.
I swore everyone thought this way growing up until I questioned it and explaining my what ifs only to be asked what’s wrong with me… what a strange world we live in
I'm pretty sure the green half is due to limited resolution programmed in the bambu lab processor
This is the same with the Creality K series printers. It’s just a USB cam repinned to a JST connector.
What about the camera of the P1 series?
most likely software limited to be crappier than the X series but I'm interested to see if the feed improves with a camera swap
It'd be amazing if you could try with the A1 camera, because im pretty sure its actually just connected by usb c, and that camera isnt very good
I would be curious as well but unfortunately I don’t have an A1… I have been tempted by the A1 Mini but I don’t really have space for more printers right now
@@AndreiAldeayou can buy a spare camera from bambu directly. Which I might do. I wonder if the camera is the reason the A1/P1 is so bad, or it's something on the motherboard. Would be funny if the camera itself is the issue, and replacing the camera with something else fixed it.
@@into-the-mild If you look at Andrei's footage with the bambu camera wired to usb and being used as a webcam, the FPS issue at least seems to have been solved. I'm actually thinking about using the bambu camera usb'd to a pi zero for this reason. Got to be worth a try.
@johnbeer4963 what I ended up doing, is getting a TPLink C100 or similar cheap camera and mounting it to the side with a bracket you can print. It's a way cheaper and easier solution.
Hmm,. the green reminds me of the older cheap usb camera when you had to change setting for de-interlacing rates. Probably from the bambu camera driver they are using. since it is just linux after all. Now if the driver was UVC compliant it wold be neat to wire up one of my thermal cameras 😂 You could monitor how certain materials cool down to much and warp like nylon PA6
Can you do this with a P1S ?
Can you use an X1 camera on a P1 printer?
Great find!
Do you think that this could improve the 1 FPS that the P1 series printers stream at?
I need to try to find a cheap camera to test.
Problem with P1 series is the controller not the camera. The cpu can not process live camera feed
Can u just put a x1 carbon camera in a p1s??
I have a very similar issue of artifacting, but how come when you were able to view it on your pc, the artifacting wasnt there?
@@lpROTC for me the artifacting was happening on/off after reboots but was always guaranteed to happen after the chamber was heated for a little bit.
I have the p1s and there is the camera very bad, I’m think about doing the same thing as you did so I can see with more fps
I doubt as processor is not good enough.
the official reason is, that the P1 has limited processing power, so it can't handle the higher data rate - but maybe the camera still can be replaced the same way, if the camera has a low enough data rate
@@suit1337 The real reason is that most of the frames are sent to China. The 25 frames per minute we see are left so we don't get suspicious.
@@theo3000lmao 😅
its literally the same camera module in the P1S as the X1C, as previously stated, you wont get a better frame rate out of it due to processing power limitations.
what soldering iron do you use
It’s a Pine64 Pinecil, I highly recommend it.
And then I wonder ... is the P1S camera also USB? I expect not, but who knows?
Mine is currently blurry, out of nowhere. Currently looking into replacing it with something other than the stock camera, which sucks to begin with.
Yeah if you're trying to do that something like a Logitech C920 is probably your best bet. I would try to pick up a used one off Facebook Marketplace or something for cheap, no sense in paying full price.
What soldering iron and helping hands are you using? Could you provide a link? I'm in the market for both. Thank you!
@@wscottfunk the Soldering iron is called a Pinecil from Pine64 and for $26 it blows $100+ soldering irons out of the water (just make sure you use a good USB-C PD power supply with it) and the helping hands are called the Omni Fixo and they are by far the nicest, Tested did a video on them a while ago and they’re worth every penny.
If I had to get those all over again I would. Don’t bother with the cheaper stuff it will save you a lot of frustration. The soldering iron especially is an absolute bargain
interesting video, you should reduce the volume of the background music tho
But… when you connected the Bambu camera to the computer there was nothing wrong with the image, so the problem we see is from elsewhere, right? (One of my X1C just started having this issue, hence I’m interested in the reason. Seems more like sw-related)
@@Mr.X3D it could be but for me the issue always happens once the chamber heats up, swapping the sensor with the new one has it working fine so I assume something is cooking that sensor over time….
my camera started to have the same problem , when you First switch on the picture is o.k , but slowly more and more gets added to the image , at First I thought it was something to do with being on a different vlan , but work out it's the camera when heated up.
Commenting for the engagement
Would I be able to swap my p1s camera with one from the x1c directly?
no its a different connector
Thank you!
@@mikechu01 what is to change the connector ?
wont matter. whilst they might have different connectors, they use the same camera.
this wouldn't work with the p1s would it ?....they say the camera is limited on the p1s be cause of lower power cpu on p1s vs x1c
@@vash469 if it’s usb still it might but work at a reduced frame rate or it will drop frames. Not sure, I don’t have a P1S unfortunately. If you’re fine with not using the native app for monitoring a WiFi camera might be easier/better for that.
@@AndreiAldea I have a tapo c110 I use but trying to find a good position for it all the prints I'm finding aren't very good angles....just good for overall monitoring
same camera module in both. hence, unfortunately, you're right about the lacking processing power. should still be possible to swap in another camera with compatible specs, but you wont get much better output.
could you use the native camera port on the machine to plug in a DSLR to film a timelapse and have the machine activate the shutter?
No, he tried with the a7 and zv in the video
@@cowabungacrypto not Sony ones, it would have to be a camera that supports outputting USB Video out in a way that it acts as a standard USB cam. That’s why the Osmo Pocket worked
Would this work with the A1 mini
I’m not sure what the processor board is like on the A1, don’t have one myself but it’s certainly possible
did you try? i am keen to know
I have not tried it yet
Can you explain the resistor level thing? Specifically what resistor value are we supposed to use to connect?
@@RaleighLittles Yes, USB Type-C has two CC lines that are used for negotiating power transfer in normal Power Delivery applications. Those lines can also be used in a legacy “dumb” mode where you just put a resistor on each line tied to the 5V line to indicate the type of device you are connecting. 56K ohms is “standard” for 500mA default power, while commonly you’ll see 5.1K which tells the power adapter on the other end that the device is a 5V 3A sink.
Normally USB-A to C cables have these 2 resistors built-in to make them work since the CC thing wasn’t a thing when USB-A was first created, but USB-C to USB-C cables assume that the device on either end does the signaling.
Hence by using an adapter we’re basically just providing those resistors so that the USB-C end can negotiate the correct power. If you’re using only USB Type-A then none of this applies, 5V is just always supplied.
@@RaleighLittles there’s a good Hackaday Article called “ALL ABOUT USB-C: RESISTORS AND EMARKERS” if you want to read further
clean the printer :O
@@dennis8019 I can happily say I vacuumed and did a full maintenance pass on it this morning :D
@@AndreiAldea thanks for that.. have a good day there
Crazy that the c920 is considered a potato webcam now. Very interesting.
@@gerthddyn Compared to newer sensors it’s definitely getting long in the tooth, it behaves like a 30ish dollar camera at most but its a classic
+1 USB. Sorry +1 SUB 😂😂😂
Salutare domnule😊😊😊
@@bucurionutrusu3260 haha saluter si mersi 🥳
Love the info. The music is way too loud and awful 😢
I thought it was a perfect printer.. why are people trying to modify it from every angle.😂
Sadly p1s probably does not use usbc
neither does the x1. You didn't see the connector he chopped off?
@@spusuf I effed up, i ment p1 does not use usb protocol
It could be my fault but I don't understand this logic. You change the camera, but you wanna keep the printer's data transfer chain. Why is that? Your camera is outside of the box, and it's an independent device, why would you want to connect it to bambu? Just because you can? Use your own video data transfer method, wifi, ethernet, USB2 or 3 or HDMI or whatever you want.
And another problem is the lighting. Very important in photography, when you want HQ picture/video. Switch off the Bambu's own LED (you don't want to look into the Sun), and build your own LED lighting stripe into the upper frame, you can find many solutions in the Makerworld.
@@telelaci2 There’s a few cases where something like this might make sense to do:
1. Your Bambu camera dies (like mine) and you want to replace it without buying a new Bambu sensor
2. You want a different camera angle and/or better quality (which even the C920 gives you) while still being able to use the native Bambu App for monitoring on your phone remotely and the native Timelapse feature.
Using “my own transfer method” would imply having to setup another device to monitor it that’s not tied into the Bambu app, probably a pi or other Linux box whatever.
Lighting and camera angle you can play with like anything else, ideally yeah you’d turn off the Bambu light and setup strips optimally for your camera setup, but you can do that with this just fine.
@@AndreiAldea OK but a Bambu Chamber Camera replacement for X1C is 54 EUR/$ 50, it's definitely cheaper than an Logitech C920/C922, not mentioning a GoPro or a DSLR or mirrorless pro cameras you tested. You are not cheaper but more expensive. And you needed many gadgets also, a camera tripod, USB cable, plug converters, dongle. Add it up don't be shy. You will be over $ 100.
@@AndreiAldea The weakest link of the Bambu's Data stream is the bandwitdth, 2.4GHz wifi. You can't change that (maybe later with the Crowdsupply X1Plus for $125). And it limits your quality badly, whatever camera you use. They should've put a gigabit ethernet in the printer, but they wanted to save money. Meh.
And I wouldn't name the half green screen a better quality, but faulty instead. Bambu's firmware can't handle that camera properly. So I think the idea was very good, it was worth a try, but it failed, you couldn't achieve the goal. Be honest to yourself. Sorry for the criticism.