I just wanted to say thank you! I have been working on consoles for a few years now, but am just starting with micro-soldering. I have also been watching your videos and methods very closely, trying to learn before I dove in head first. Tonight I successfully replaced my very first HDMI port on an Xbox One S using your method! I about screamed when the screen popped up the Xbox logo! I couldn't have done it without you!
I like that you put your tool settings on the screen when you start using a tool. I appreciate you sir. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience
Another great video Joey! Editing is perfect also. Don’t change a thing and keep them coming 😊 sometimes the sense of achievement is worth more than a profit as odd as it sounds especially when it comes to fixing electronics🤣
I love your super fast editing style without unnecessary disassembly and that only emphasizes the salient parts, your fast speaking puts my English a bit in crisis, but it's worth it :P
Awesome video. BTW, about bad sectors: Current pending sector count (logical bad sectors) - Number of unstable sectors which have been flagged as possibly damaged. If the hard drive encounter errors again on that sector, it will be moved to reallocated sector count. Current pending sector can also be false flagged due to unexpected power loss while transferring data and/or communication errors. Reallocated sector count (physical bad sector) - These are actual bad sectors which were at some point of time flagged in the pending sector count and later on moved here since the hard drive faced errors again trying to access that particular sector.
While it’s sad that all that work for £25, at least you’re getting invaluable experience, making great YT content, and giving new life to otherwise broken tech!
dude u got a sub...free feedback love the narration just jumped over from odd tinkering but i find the narration and the fails so much more relatable.. cheers man
Excellent video and content, xbox #2 of particular interest - as I have same fault, just waiting on ESD filter to arrive...then to hopefully fix. Do you use your microscope on its original stand or have you upgraded? Thanks and keep up the awesome videos!!
Great job on those! Also, have you ever been able to figure out why the retimer chips go bad so often? Is it heat? If so, I wonder if a small passive heatsink added to them would help?
I really want to know why those chips failed a lot!!! Almost every Xbox One console for repairs is because that chip!! I'm an Xbox One Fat and Xbox One X owner and it freaks me out just to think that someday it's gonna happen to me lol
Epic! This is inspirational and motivational. Thank you for sharing Joey. Really appreciate the time and effort that you spend recording and editing these fixes for our education 👍
Great job Joey!! Looks to be getting easier and faster. I’m sure you have been asked this about a thousand times what microscope are you currently using?
With a thin flat tool most of the white connector housings can be lifted off the pins and replaced later, if it's being difficult apply a little heat Good video...
Hey joey , decided to start trying repair stuff , got all the gear but no idea. I'm learning from you though . I'm working on a xbox one x - beep on then off. So far I've discovered all the caps next to APU are shorted to ground. APU bad ?
You shouldn't mix leaded and unleaded. Weaker joints. It's best to remove leaded solder when you're reworking components. When dealing with corrosion, you really should be using acetic acid solution to neutralize the corrosion before attempting to rework the area. Similarly, contaminated solder should be removed and not reused. Cleaning with IPA isn't good enough, and applying heat to the affected area can accelerate the corrosion.
First of all..... That HDMI change in the Xbox #2 was amazing! Looks so perfect ☺️ But you know what causes that chip failed a lot? I mean, almost every Xbox One console for repairs is because of that chip, what causes to fail? Do you have any information about that?
16:11 - I know this is a slightly older vid now, but pin 18 on the HDMI port is the 5V output from the console to the display. But pin 19 is "Hot Plug Detect" which is coming back from the display. (ie. the console only supplies pin 18, but that then comes back down to pin 19 from the display, AFAIK.) So I think the "ESD filter" is also more of a current-limited voltage reg for 5V to HDMI pin 18. That 5V supply is used mainly to power the EDID EEPROM in the TV, so the console can read the EDID info. Also, a *lot* of displays won't even enable their HDMI input without first seeing 5V on pin 18. (and if the console can't read the EDID EEPROM in the display, then it probably won't output anything either.) Not sure if any of that info is useful for future repairs? lol
I bought my first faulty Switch Lite last week, after being inspired by vids like yours. I think I found the main fault... The listing said the HDMI port and M92 chip were replaced, and they indeed were. The soldering looked fine on both, but I did remove and replace the M92 chip, just to be sure. (I kept thinking the M92 is the "charging IC", but it's really the USB-C PD chip. The BQ chip is the actual battery charger.) The Switch was showing the Nintendo logo then powering back off. I had to hold the Power button to do a reset, before tapping it again to show the logo, and so-on. It didn't seem to be charging the battery, the fuse was OK, there were no obvious shorts on any of the caps around the M92, BQ, nor either of the MAX switching regs. (aside from one cap next to one of the MAX chips measuring only 14 Ohms to ground, which I strongly suspect is the main SoC Vcore anyway.) So I bought a new battery and cheapo 5.2V USB-C charger. The Switch only ever pulled a current of 0.47A. Anyway, I noticed the SoC was always warm, so it was clearly mostly running, but in a low-power state. Then I noticed a tiny component next to the ALC5639 Realtek audio codec getting hot. I checked the caps around the Realtek, and sure enough, one was a dead short. That cap was on the DBVDD pin on the Realtek, which is normally a 1V8 supply. On a hunch, I removed the Realtek chip instead of any of the caps, and the short is now gone. ;) (That same 1V8 supply also powers the STM32 chip on the opposite side of the board.) Now it boots to the Switch logo, then shows the 2101-0001 error code, which is apparently an "I2C bus error". Which makes total sense, since it can't talk to the Realtek chip atm. I've ordered a new chip. Fingers crossed it will then boot fully.
This is an amazing breakdown, thankyou for spending the time to explain! Also great news about your Switch Lite below :) Thanks for watching the videos!
@@JoeyDoesTech Update: The new Realtek audio chip arrived... I hadn't soldered QFNs in a while, but was usually OK at it. This time, the whole chip slid off the pads a bit when I was holding it down with the tweezers for the "squidge" stage. lol Managed to line it up again, hot air station (Aoyue 852D) at around 400C, and soldered fine. Tidied up the blobs / bridges with the iron (Metcal). It verks! Switch Lite is working perfectly now. ;) I put it back together, minus the usual one screw spare. lol I bought Mario Kart 8. First time buying a game since probably Project Cars (PC) several years ago. MK8 has been quite fun already. It's a very neat handheld. Only shame is the Lite can't display HDMI via a dock/cable. I realize the Lite is the "cost reduced" version, but I thought maybe they'd keep HDMI since it can still pair to external Joycons / controllers. Seems a bit silly to not have HDMI for the sake of a PI3 chip and a few passives. btw, all the sellers call it the "P13" chip, but the full part number is PI3USB30532, so "P I 3". hehe
Anywho, thanks for the vids. It inspired me to try fixing my first Switch. I only paid £50 for the Switch Lite (yellow) on eBay (UK), plus £5 P&P. £7.50 for a new charger, but I got conned into buying a 5.2V-only version, 'cos I had too many tabs open. lol £14.85 for a third-party battery (which very likely wasn't needed, but oh well.) £3.99 for the ALC5639 audio codec. And I bought one of the USB-C PD testers for £10.79, which will come in very handy anyway for other stuff. Not too bad overall. Even playing Tetris 99 has been fun. lol
Stick a ssd in the machine. I have 2 Xbox one s with ssd. Only the load time and fast start up its worth it. Its easy to do. Just use a 512GB or a 1Tb . Only those will work easy with the original recovery tool from Microsoft self Do not use a 960Gb it will not work you have to usa a 3 party software and make custom install Yes you can use a ssd on usb and use that . Problem is the swapfile will still.use the internal old drive. Openworld and online shooters will have a fast loading with a ssd internal .
The 5v line should be off, the hotplug should be "on" and the cec will be "on" too if one of the 2 devices wants to communicate. In theory. And by the documentation. But depends on the manufacturer.
Damn. what repairing these can also gain on money. I should start doing stuff like this but on like robot vacuums or such. Something thats for me easy to repair.
So… would be interesting to know final profit if you take into account your RUclips Rev, but also a video where you explain any skills or info you learned from a specific video, and also how much you’d make if you put the hours on that job to say, your real life job!
@@JoeyDoesTech I had a Hakko 880fx, not worth the money. I got the micro pencil also but sold it. I have an axiom that take genuine JCB nozzles…best soldering iron I’ve ever had, and a 3rd of the price of a. Hakko, and easier to source.
If you couldn't fix one so it becomes a doner board it's written as a loss which i get. I don't understand why a loss that fixes a new project would count against the profit though
I never sell working units . I always strip after repair as they sell for more in parts. You say the 500gb will sell for 60 yet I sell just the boards for that. This gives you everything else to sell as profit
Very good point Hamza. I like doing them to be honest. Nice to take apart and put back together. I'm also trying to get better with them, so it's nice practice :)
A technician doesn't necessarily pick there own work, however once you have experience with a console it makes sense to stick to what you are comfortable working with.
Thankyou for watching 😁 If you enjoyed this video join me over here for something similar ▶ ruclips.net/video/m7wGUX5PvCQ/видео.html
That hdmi port on the second was a work of art!
Agreed!
And it was the first try
Your videos are getting better and better, clear and precise. Nice work mate!
Thankyou Raggi!
I just wanted to say thank you! I have been working on consoles for a few years now, but am just starting with micro-soldering. I have also been watching your videos and methods very closely, trying to learn before I dove in head first. Tonight I successfully replaced my very first HDMI port on an Xbox One S using your method! I about screamed when the screen popped up the Xbox logo! I couldn't have done it without you!
Yes let’s go Nick! This is amazing to see! Congratulations!!!
Always a joy to hear you say "Lets go man" and fistpump when you fix one.
Lovely video's mate !
Thanks :)
I like that you put your tool settings on the screen when you start using a tool. I appreciate you sir. Thank you for sharing your skills knowledge and experience
Another great video Joey! Editing is perfect also. Don’t change a thing and keep them coming 😊 sometimes the sense of achievement is worth more than a profit as odd as it sounds especially when it comes to fixing electronics🤣
I love your super fast editing style without unnecessary disassembly and that only emphasizes the salient parts, your fast speaking puts my English a bit in crisis, but it's worth it :P
Haha thanks :)
Loving the longer videos joey. Great vid as alway 👍🏽
Awesome video. BTW, about bad sectors:
Current pending sector count (logical bad sectors) - Number of unstable sectors which have been flagged as possibly damaged. If the hard drive encounter errors again on that sector, it will be moved to reallocated sector count. Current pending sector can also be false flagged due to unexpected power loss while transferring data and/or communication errors.
Reallocated sector count (physical bad sector) - These are actual bad sectors which were at some point of time flagged in the pending sector count and later on moved here since the hard drive faced errors again trying to access that particular sector.
Really cool having come from your newer videos seeing how much more efficient you are now
While it’s sad that all that work for £25, at least you’re getting invaluable experience, making great YT content, and giving new life to otherwise broken tech!
Amazing how far your skills have come. Good on ya.
Thanks :)
Your excitement gets me excited when you're waiting for the consoles to boot, great job!
dude u got a sub...free feedback love the narration just jumped over from odd tinkering but i find the narration and the fails so much more relatable.. cheers man
Good to hear! Thankyou and welcome, hope you enjoy the vids :)
Your videos always inspire me because of the patience and time you put into fixing these xbox
Thankyou :)
Superb repairs, I wonder why the re-timer chips seem to be a common fault on a lot of these Xboxes, Even the new X it seems they're still an issue.
Thankyou! Yes, it baffles me why haha
Good work mr joey! That 2nd Xbox was particularly interesting 🙂
Great video, your skills are definitely improving all the time - top work!
The pins on the second Xbox HDMI port looked amazing. Literally better than factory. Great stuff Joey
3 out of 3! Amazing! Very good job! Thank you for the good entertainment, as always.
Thankyou Leon!
Thanks so much legend !! Literally the only tutorial that actually WORKED!
Great job! Loved the technique on the HDMI swap. Very nice work!
Outstanding, Joey. 3 out of 3 fully working consoles. Bonus time
Thankyou!
Nice and smoothly. First fix was wicked
Thanks bud :)
Nice work... enjoying your journey! Would love to see you revisit some of your Switch failures!
Thanks! Good vid. Here's helping get a bit back on the purchase. Keep it up
I’m so sorry I never saw this! Thankyou so much :) ❤️
@@JoeyDoesTech ah sure. No worried
Excellent video and content, xbox #2 of particular interest - as I have same fault, just waiting on ESD filter to arrive...then to hopefully fix.
Do you use your microscope on its original stand or have you upgraded?
Thanks and keep up the awesome videos!!
Awesome video - those Toshiba drives (the 500GB and 1TB flavors) are notorious for this.
Great job on those! Also, have you ever been able to figure out why the retimer chips go bad so often? Is it heat? If so, I wonder if a small passive heatsink added to them would help?
I really want to know why those chips failed a lot!!! Almost every Xbox One console for repairs is because that chip!! I'm an Xbox One Fat and Xbox One X owner and it freaks me out just to think that someday it's gonna happen to me lol
Joey and his Xbox hat trick! Get in dude! Tech Man of the Match! Back of the Net!
LETS GOOOOO! :D
Nice videos Joe, I'm watching all of them. Can you drop the link for the Andonstar microscope arm you are using. Thanks
I think i had my eye on the same lot as you! I did a few One X's at the start of the year..sold one too.
Epic! This is inspirational and motivational. Thank you for sharing Joey. Really appreciate the time and effort that you spend recording and editing these fixes for our education 👍
Great job Joey!! Looks to be getting easier and faster. I’m sure you have been asked this about a thousand times what microscope are you currently using?
This that was a great lot well done my only attempt of that kind of work ended in disaster I tried to replace the analogue stick on my ps4 controller
I’d say it was more likely that it was the open line causing the first not to start
With a thin flat tool most of the white connector housings can be lifted off the pins and replaced later, if it's being difficult apply a little heat Good video...
What can I say joey your the man! Just love it great video
Just found your channel and have subscribed. Great video. Do you mind sharing where you found the information for what the diode readings should be.
Thankyou and welcome! :) Honestly it's just experience working on them!
Awesome content you really come a long way sir and you are really helping us guys with repairs you the man joey respect.
Dam bro, you got some skills. I wouldn't have the patience to do this.
Do you resell on Ebay? If not, where can I find them. Thanks.
Hey joey , decided to start trying repair stuff , got all the gear but no idea.
I'm learning from you though .
I'm working on a xbox one x - beep on then off.
So far I've discovered all the caps next to APU are shorted to ground.
APU bad ?
Hardly seems worth it for $28 but at least you didn't lose money. Excellent work
Once again some great fixes, top job Joey well done
Thanks Matt!
Great job as always joey
Thankyou Dak :)
You shouldn't mix leaded and unleaded. Weaker joints. It's best to remove leaded solder when you're reworking components.
When dealing with corrosion, you really should be using acetic acid solution to neutralize the corrosion before attempting to rework the area. Similarly, contaminated solder should be removed and not reused. Cleaning with IPA isn't good enough, and applying heat to the affected area can accelerate the corrosion.
I've not fixed an xbox in awhile, the local market used price vs broken price is nearly identical
It's very similar here at the moment, but I need them to make some content haha
@@JoeyDoesTech I'd buy them as well if I was recording my repairs, since I am not I will just have to continue watching your repairs instead :D
First of all.....
That HDMI change in the Xbox #2 was amazing! Looks so perfect ☺️
But you know what causes that chip failed a lot? I mean, almost every Xbox One console for repairs is because of that chip, what causes to fail? Do you have any information about that?
Sync (sink) button for the water damage ha ha ha.
hi joey where do you sell your electronics you fix?
16:11 - I know this is a slightly older vid now, but pin 18 on the HDMI port is the 5V output from the console to the display.
But pin 19 is "Hot Plug Detect" which is coming back from the display.
(ie. the console only supplies pin 18, but that then comes back down to pin 19 from the display, AFAIK.)
So I think the "ESD filter" is also more of a current-limited voltage reg for 5V to HDMI pin 18.
That 5V supply is used mainly to power the EDID EEPROM in the TV, so the console can read the EDID info.
Also, a *lot* of displays won't even enable their HDMI input without first seeing 5V on pin 18.
(and if the console can't read the EDID EEPROM in the display, then it probably won't output anything either.)
Not sure if any of that info is useful for future repairs? lol
I bought my first faulty Switch Lite last week, after being inspired by vids like yours.
I think I found the main fault...
The listing said the HDMI port and M92 chip were replaced, and they indeed were.
The soldering looked fine on both, but I did remove and replace the M92 chip, just to be sure.
(I kept thinking the M92 is the "charging IC", but it's really the USB-C PD chip. The BQ chip is the actual battery charger.)
The Switch was showing the Nintendo logo then powering back off. I had to hold the Power button to do a reset, before tapping it again to show the logo, and so-on.
It didn't seem to be charging the battery, the fuse was OK, there were no obvious shorts on any of the caps around the M92, BQ, nor either of the MAX switching regs.
(aside from one cap next to one of the MAX chips measuring only 14 Ohms to ground, which I strongly suspect is the main SoC Vcore anyway.)
So I bought a new battery and cheapo 5.2V USB-C charger. The Switch only ever pulled a current of 0.47A.
Anyway, I noticed the SoC was always warm, so it was clearly mostly running, but in a low-power state.
Then I noticed a tiny component next to the ALC5639 Realtek audio codec getting hot.
I checked the caps around the Realtek, and sure enough, one was a dead short.
That cap was on the DBVDD pin on the Realtek, which is normally a 1V8 supply.
On a hunch, I removed the Realtek chip instead of any of the caps, and the short is now gone. ;)
(That same 1V8 supply also powers the STM32 chip on the opposite side of the board.)
Now it boots to the Switch logo, then shows the 2101-0001 error code, which is apparently an "I2C bus error".
Which makes total sense, since it can't talk to the Realtek chip atm.
I've ordered a new chip. Fingers crossed it will then boot fully.
This is an amazing breakdown, thankyou for spending the time to explain! Also great news about your Switch Lite below :) Thanks for watching the videos!
@@JoeyDoesTech Update: The new Realtek audio chip arrived...
I hadn't soldered QFNs in a while, but was usually OK at it.
This time, the whole chip slid off the pads a bit when I was holding it down with the tweezers for the "squidge" stage. lol
Managed to line it up again, hot air station (Aoyue 852D) at around 400C, and soldered fine. Tidied up the blobs / bridges with the iron (Metcal).
It verks!
Switch Lite is working perfectly now. ;)
I put it back together, minus the usual one screw spare. lol
I bought Mario Kart 8. First time buying a game since probably Project Cars (PC) several years ago.
MK8 has been quite fun already. It's a very neat handheld.
Only shame is the Lite can't display HDMI via a dock/cable.
I realize the Lite is the "cost reduced" version, but I thought maybe they'd keep HDMI since it can still pair to external Joycons / controllers.
Seems a bit silly to not have HDMI for the sake of a PI3 chip and a few passives.
btw, all the sellers call it the "P13" chip, but the full part number is PI3USB30532, so "P I 3". hehe
Anywho, thanks for the vids. It inspired me to try fixing my first Switch.
I only paid £50 for the Switch Lite (yellow) on eBay (UK), plus £5 P&P.
£7.50 for a new charger, but I got conned into buying a 5.2V-only version, 'cos I had too many tabs open. lol
£14.85 for a third-party battery (which very likely wasn't needed, but oh well.)
£3.99 for the ALC5639 audio codec.
And I bought one of the USB-C PD testers for £10.79, which will come in very handy anyway for other stuff.
Not too bad overall. Even playing Tetris 99 has been fun. lol
Stick a ssd in the machine.
I have 2 Xbox one s with ssd.
Only the load time and fast start up its worth it.
Its easy to do.
Just use a 512GB or a 1Tb .
Only those will work easy with the original recovery tool from Microsoft self
Do not use a 960Gb it will not work you have to usa a 3 party software and make custom install
Yes you can use a ssd on usb and use that .
Problem is the swapfile will still.use the internal old drive.
Openworld and online shooters will have a fast loading with a ssd internal .
The pin 19 is not a constant voltage, but the 5v line is 5v :D
Ah okay :) Is it meant to have 5v on standby though?
The 5v line should be off, the hotplug should be "on" and the cec will be "on" too if one of the 2 devices wants to communicate.
In theory. And by the documentation. But depends on the manufacturer.
The Hard Drive In The Second One Looks Like A Replacment
Damn. what repairing these can also gain on money. I should start doing stuff like this but on like robot vacuums or such. Something thats for me easy to repair.
Did good job on that joey 👏
So… would be interesting to know final profit if you take into account your RUclips Rev, but also a video where you explain any skills or info you learned from a specific video, and also how much you’d make if you put the hours on that job to say, your real life job!
Love your vids
Thankyou :)
Keep up the good work my man love the videos also first
Thankyou! :)
I was shocked at the hdd stats on Xbox #3 almost 26,000 power ons and only 918 power on hours how is that even possible 🤯
nice work..no rudeness and straight forward repair..unlike the others..
nice work!!!! 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
Mt xbox one s is staying on the green screen most the time but if it passes that it tries to sign it but just keeps loading...any suggestions?
another nice fix
Nice job 😁
You need a better soldering iron. Good job though 😊
I would love a Hakko! :)
@@JoeyDoesTech I had a Hakko 880fx, not worth the money. I got the micro pencil also but sold it. I have an axiom that take genuine JCB nozzles…best soldering iron I’ve ever had, and a 3rd of the price of a. Hakko, and easier to source.
Lovin it 👍🏻
i bet that chip was good, it was the trace on the first xbox
yes
Brilliant!
The funny thing is you can get more money just by trading them in to cex.
Does anyone know how I fix a squeaky fan on my xbox one s at all please? Thanks
Three. Faulty Xbox’s from eBay can. l. Fix. Them
amazing im relaxed
If you couldn't fix one so it becomes a doner board it's written as a loss which i get. I don't understand why a loss that fixes a new project would count against the profit though
How careless does someone have to be to spill water into a console? Any smart person would keep liquids FAR away from anything electronic.
Excellent wow
Better yet, they didn't end up on a landfill.
Exactly!
Airflow speed 99%.
The last 1 % will Destroy the hole Xbox immediately.
Make sure U check that when replacing your HDMI Port FOLKS 😆
Haha the unit only goes up to 99% for some reason!
Liked b4 i even saw
Thankyou :)
crazy they still use shitty 2.5inch disks lol ok maybe its a secondary disk but still crap
I destroyed the evil in here by giving like 667. 😊
I appreciate you haha
Duck 13:24
I never sell working units . I always strip after repair as they sell for more in parts. You say the 500gb will sell for 60 yet I sell just the boards for that. This gives you everything else to sell as profit
So what you are saying is Buying and fixing xbox's are not worth it. Gotcha.
Nice 😃
£25 profit. What's the point.
It's fun, makes content for the channel and i assume he makes money of youtube aswell.
Hobby. Buzz. Adrenalin, when it works after all day trying.
Why you always try to fix Xboxs?
Very good point Hamza. I like doing them to be honest. Nice to take apart and put back together. I'm also trying to get better with them, so it's nice practice :)
@@JoeyDoesTech Yes, I noticed that , when I watched all your videos, Keep it up 👍
A technician doesn't necessarily pick there own work, however once you have experience with a console it makes sense to stick to what you are comfortable working with.
You talk fast. Real fast. Just saying.