I heard what Brad said about 4k grit. I used to have my pso put 4k on every strong asym ball I had drilled before even rolling it. Then before a sport shot tournament/sweeper I would go with 500 on my stronger equipment. Always worked great for me.
Is it possible that you guys could have a video where you explained the different terms you use? Use terms like reading the lane and a lot of other different terms. I would think a lot of people would learn some more. Especially me! Lol
i would like a video about what characteristics different conditioners have on ball motion and transition. unfortunately here in australia low volume of ice seems to ruin every centre with balls stuck. i personally like navigate as it stays on the lane , terrain and curve is just to early , what do you find is the fun combination to really enjoy the game?
Lot of power there looks very dialed in on that shot. You guys should make a video for the people who crossbody, weather it be a problem at the line or on the way to the line.
How much does being rev dominant (no thumb bowler) impact this? Often I struggle with too much hook. Would adding surface smooth out the transition or would it hook even more? I love my ion pro when it works, but sometimes it's difficult to control the pocket.
I bowl on very old wooden lanes. I’ve been struggling with a typical 1000 abralon pad finish averaging 173. This past week I tossed on 3,000 and I bowled a 600 series that was a lot less work.
I always joke that the more surface the less ball (on account of the material removal). I'll be honest I have shied away from surfacing on account of feeling like I might mess up a good thing. Is there a limit or number of times using pads either higher or lower becomes the point where replacing the ball comes time?
Great video but just to clarify I’m still not the best with executing! To me no matter what you’re throwing if you don’t execute, you’re not gonna get a good score but having said that after your executing well, what is most important ball change, moving your feet and or your eyes or surface or polish?
Look at it this way, you want the ball that allows you to hit the pocket the most. This then frees up your swing and allows the execution to be better because you have more miss room.
If the ball is hooking late or not enough, why can't you just move your target in by a few feet? Slow down your shot? Move right a little? Am I missing something?
Just a question - isn't it more correct to say that a ball with more surface hooks SOONER than a shiny ball and that both balls actually hook the same amount since it's the same ball, just the shiny ball hooks later?
When you increase surface on a bowling ball (use low grit pads), the ball has more "teeth" to dig into the lane. This causes the ball to hook sooner - so instead of the ball hooking around 40ish ft (house shot), the ball starts to hook more towards 37-38ft. This causes the ball to roll out, which is why those corner pins are a pain. I would suggest giving your ball more time in the oil (move in), but play a more direct line to the pocket.
The ball won't roll out if you use the right surface on the right conditions. Lots of new balls are coming out of the box at 2000 so they hook sooner and more. .
@@SirJoelsuf1 that's if your center has hold. Literally subbed Monday night on two completely different lanes. Every player on both teams agreed. Zero hold on lane 1. Way more oil on lane 2. I had high series of the 10 bowlers and was still slightly under 600. Your theory works better in tournaments - especially local scratch tournaments on challenge patterns. Many centers now put as little out as possible to save money.
See this is what frustrates me about bowling, or certain centers I guess I should say. Once practice starts and you throw any ball down the lane, you can not do anything to that surface because it is against USBC rules. The houses here in the south are not what people call a "house shot" in league because the weather has an affect on the shot. When it gets cold here they crank up the heat (ugh) and when its later in the evening with it being 30 degrees outside the center but inside it is 70 degrees I swear it makes the shot screwy. I think the shot is never the same even though it is a league but it is hard to decide if I want more surface or less and I don't have multiples of the same ball to where I can have one shined up and polished and the other hit with 2000 or 1000 surface. It is a struggle for real. I think that rule should be tossed and you should be allowed to change surface in practice but I know that'll never happen.
You can adjust surface as long as nobody on the pair has thrown a ball for score... you can adjust surface throughout practice until the first ball for score is thrown by either team
Whatever surface is on your ball, it changes during bowling. To be consistent, you need to repeat the process regularly. I bought a ball spinner several years ago. It makes the process faster and easier. Also, you can use automotive grade wet or dry sandpaper. It works well and is a lot cheaper than pads. I use the paper 3 times, then toss it, because the paper or pad surface changes as you use it.
@@Cincy_B I don't remember the brand. Out of town right now. It was about $250. I bought it rather than buying a new ball that year. It brought some of my old balls back to life, so it was well worth the money. I'll check when I get home and reply.
I change my surface on my summit almost every week. Depending on the pattern, I may throw reactagloss on it to give it a bit more skid. But usually I immediately bring it back down to 2000 grit.
I heard what Brad said about 4k grit. I used to have my pso put 4k on every strong asym ball I had drilled before even rolling it. Then before a sport shot tournament/sweeper I would go with 500 on my stronger equipment. Always worked great for me.
I have to say Brad and Kyle i enjoy all your videos, you never make a bad video.
Merry Christmas, Brad and Kyle! 🎄
Is it possible that you guys could have a video where you explained the different terms you use? Use terms like reading the lane and a lot of other different terms. I would think a lot of people would learn some more. Especially me! Lol
i would like a video about what characteristics different conditioners have on ball motion and transition. unfortunately here in australia low volume of ice seems to ruin every centre with balls stuck. i personally like navigate as it stays on the lane , terrain and curve is just to early , what do you find is the fun combination to really enjoy the game?
Cool video talk tech bowling ball Brad and Kyle
500 grit Jackal Ghost and 500 grit (16 pound)Purple Hammer is the key to having a really fun time!!!!
I sanded my IQ 78 with a 220 grit drywall pad and it now looks amazing!!
Drywall pads are not the same grit as abralon pads. They use a different scale, just a heads up.
Lot of power there looks very dialed in on that shot. You guys should make a video for the people who crossbody, weather it be a problem at the line or on the way to the line.
Thanks for the video. Looks like I have some experimenting to do.
How much does being rev dominant (no thumb bowler) impact this? Often I struggle with too much hook. Would adding surface smooth out the transition or would it hook even more? I love my ion pro when it works, but sometimes it's difficult to control the pocket.
Thanks for all the great videos, Merry Christmas guys! 🎄🎁🎳
I bowl on very old wooden lanes. I’ve been struggling with a typical 1000 abralon pad finish averaging 173. This past week I tossed on 3,000 and I bowled a 600 series that was a lot less work.
Yep, tons of friction on old authentic wooden lanes.
I always joke that the more surface the less ball (on account of the material removal). I'll be honest I have shied away from surfacing on account of feeling like I might mess up a good thing. Is there a limit or number of times using pads either higher or lower becomes the point where replacing the ball comes time?
Best explanation of slowing ball down.
Great video but just to clarify I’m still not the best with executing! To me no matter what you’re throwing if you don’t execute, you’re not gonna get a good score but having said that after your executing well, what is most important ball change, moving your feet and or your eyes or surface or polish?
Look at it this way, you want the ball that allows you to hit the pocket the most. This then frees up your swing and allows the execution to be better because you have more miss room.
Is Kyle using Easy Slide or rosin on his thumb?
If the ball is hooking late or not enough, why can't you just move your target in by a few feet? Slow down your shot? Move right a little? Am I missing something?
Yes, the point. Have a prosperous 2025. Bowl well.🎳
You can use those methods of adjustments as well but this is just another option. Personal preference.
If you use the grit can you un-do it later?
yes
Is the Ion with the white font a new ball????
The white font is from not cleaning out the polish from the logo/name engraving
How do you subtract surface? I want to try taking my ball from ootb to 2000, 1000, 500 in practice but then go back "up" to ootb
I’ve found that using a 2000 grit helps me control the ball on most patterns.
I think it might be easier to demonstrate what the balls are doing with a white board too.
how do you make ball shiny?
Just a question - isn't it more correct to say that a ball with more surface hooks SOONER than a shiny ball and that both balls actually hook the same amount since it's the same ball, just the shiny ball hooks later?
So True
What's up with one red ion logo and one white ion logo?
Red = Default logo White = Polish that wasn't cleaned out of the Ion logo
The big issue with sanding a ball to 1000, 800, or 500 is that you may leave a lot of weak 10 pins because the ball will hit the pins with no energy.
When you increase surface on a bowling ball (use low grit pads), the ball has more "teeth" to dig into the lane. This causes the ball to hook sooner - so instead of the ball hooking around 40ish ft (house shot), the ball starts to hook more towards 37-38ft. This causes the ball to roll out, which is why those corner pins are a pain. I would suggest giving your ball more time in the oil (move in), but play a more direct line to the pocket.
@@pasurferjr good tip!
The ball won't roll out if you use the right surface on the right conditions. Lots of new balls are coming out of the box at 2000 so they hook sooner and more. .
That's cuz you're feeding to the dry. If you fed the ball to the hold, you'd get the corners out.
@@SirJoelsuf1 that's if your center has hold. Literally subbed Monday night on two completely different lanes. Every player on both teams agreed. Zero hold on lane 1. Way more oil on lane 2. I had high series of the 10 bowlers and was still slightly under 600. Your theory works better in tournaments - especially local scratch tournaments on challenge patterns. Many centers now put as little out as possible to save money.
Doesn't the type of ball, symmetrical vs asymmetrical matter as well?
Indeed it does
See this is what frustrates me about bowling, or certain centers I guess I should say. Once practice starts and you throw any ball down the lane, you can not do anything to that surface because it is against USBC rules. The houses here in the south are not what people call a "house shot" in league because the weather has an affect on the shot. When it gets cold here they crank up the heat (ugh) and when its later in the evening with it being 30 degrees outside the center but inside it is 70 degrees I swear it makes the shot screwy. I think the shot is never the same even though it is a league but it is hard to decide if I want more surface or less and I don't have multiples of the same ball to where I can have one shined up and polished and the other hit with 2000 or 1000 surface. It is a struggle for real. I think that rule should be tossed and you should be allowed to change surface in practice but I know that'll never happen.
You can adjust surface as long as nobody on the pair has thrown a ball for score... you can adjust surface throughout practice until the first ball for score is thrown by either team
Be aware that dulling a ball only has a temporary effect. The lane friction polishes up the track nullifying the dulling.
Whatever surface is on your ball, it changes during bowling. To be consistent, you need to repeat the process regularly. I bought a ball spinner several years ago. It makes the process faster and easier. Also, you can use automotive grade wet or dry sandpaper. It works well and is a lot cheaper than pads. I use the paper 3 times, then toss it, because the paper or pad surface changes as you use it.
what type of spinner did you buy? I’ve browsed a bit in the past and they can be quite pricey
@@Cincy_B I don't remember the brand. Out of town right now. It was about $250. I bought it rather than buying a new ball that year. It brought some of my old balls back to life, so it was well worth the money. I'll check when I get home and reply.
I am a 2000 kind of guy on house patern
Should that really be "early hook | late hook" ?
Why not put power edge instead of reacta gloss the power edge changed my dna coil to an absolute monster
Yet another demonstration of why Reacta Gloss is so hated.
Some of us love it, but you have to use it when the lanes have some games on it.
I change my surface on my summit almost every week. Depending on the pattern, I may throw reactagloss on it to give it a bit more skid. But usually I immediately bring it back down to 2000 grit.
All my balls are out of box finish
A gutter ball sure hooks 🪝 lol
Power gloss kinda poo
Placko