Sir I don't have a budget yet to get a ball for light to medium oil. Would it be okay to polish one of my heavy oil ball? So I have a ball when it's no longer wet. Thank you so much and God speed.
i noticed on a video a while back you use so fresh so clean and a ctd pad. what would the advantages/disadvantage be using so fresh so clean vs trucut conditioner?
I just purchased a spinner and some TruCut pads. What would be the process if I were to try to get the Zen Master solid back to near OOB? (3000 grit Abralon Factory Finish) Same question for Storm Phase III. (1500 grit polished factory finish) - I have the Storm Step 2 finishing compound Storm says for PHASE III to do this 1500-grit Polished Factory Finish 1. 500-grit pad - Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides. 2. 1000-grit pad - Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides. 3. 2000-grit pad - Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides. 4. 4000-grit pad - Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides. 5. Storm® Step Two™ - Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side. And for the Zen Master they told me 3000-grit Factory Finish 1. 500-grit pad - Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides. 2. 3000-grit pad - Sand lightly for 10 seconds on all four sides. What would be the TruCut method for these? Thanks in advance for your response.
@@Ctdbowling Thank you for the information. Very helpful. Do you have a chart that shows the difference in Abralon vs TruCut? For example, my Zen Master is said to be 3000 Abralon. In one article you mention that if a manufacturer recommended 500/2000 Abralon, then use a 3000 TruCut. This is very confusing to many. Especially since in the same article you previously said "When using TruCut, you would go right to using 2000 grit only 5 seconds on 4 sides." So obviously there is a formula of sorts, but I'm not seeing how you get there. Many of us don't have the luxury of a ball scanner, so we are relying that doing as suggested will us to where we want to be. I want to surface my Zen Master on my spinner, so I need to know which way s best. Especially since I will not have a spinner lane-side. I know I could do by hand at the lanes, but that is not what I want. Thanks in advance for your response!
@@CyJobes it's not straight forward because of how fast Abralon loads. Roughly it's best to go 1000 grit higher when using TruCut to convert from Abralon, but again how you use the pads matter there as well. Specifically for the Zen Master I would go 2000 TruCut, 3000 then P5000D by hand (4000 grit) to get the reaction back to what the factory intended. We will have more videos next week on this topic so make sure you subscribe and if you aren't already consider joining our staff as we have more details there as well. ctdbowling.com/collections/staff-inquiries
That’s my argument with other people, put a surface on the ball that you think is close to factory , at least you can replicate the finish you put on not what the factory put on
Well you should probably try the ball first but yeah. I usually buy stuff that is for house shots like shiny peral covers. So some polish and fine sand will work great later on and it'll be close to stock. If you need something that hooks early then definitely resurface the ball but if not you might as well try a game or something first
I have a new Hammer Obsession Tour Pearl (I have 12 games on the ball) which its finish is 500, 1000, 1500 Siaair / Crown Factory Compound. I have the CTD sanding pads and True Cut polish, how should go about getting the ball back to factory? 500, 1000, 1500, True Cut? or should I use Crown Factory Compound (which I have)? I have a ball spinner.
Did they provide any proof that is the case? Our polish is made not to clog the pores of a bowling ball. Check out our blog section on the website for details.
Thanks! Great video and the explanations are spot on!
To make sure I heard correctly, if doing by hand to get the “1500 grit polished” I would need to use trucut 3k, 4k and then the hand applied polish🤔
Sir I don't have a budget yet to get a ball for light to medium oil. Would it be okay to polish one of my heavy oil ball? So I have a ball when it's no longer wet. Thank you so much and God speed.
Do you put the polish on the pad?
I need to do this to my Zen as well.
Why do it if the ball is working?
If my ball has the storms reactive gloss & i want It at 4000. What pads would I need to achieve that?
i thought thats why storm started using the 4k fast? becasue its repeatable
Funny thing is I did this to my zen when I got it
i noticed on a video a while back you use so fresh so clean and a ctd pad. what would the advantages/disadvantage be using so fresh so clean vs trucut conditioner?
Conditioner is a much better product for sanding pads. ruclips.net/video/B7iP07VEX4I/видео.html
How would you do that by hand as i do not have a spinner?
Type in RUclips "Ronald Hickland how to polish a ball by hand"
I just purchased a spinner and some TruCut pads.
What would be the process if I were to try to get the Zen Master solid back to near OOB? (3000 grit Abralon Factory Finish)
Same question for Storm Phase III. (1500 grit polished factory finish) - I have the Storm Step 2 finishing compound
Storm says for PHASE III to do this
1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad - Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad - Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad - Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad - Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ - Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.
And for the Zen Master they told me
3000-grit Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad - Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 3000-grit pad - Sand lightly for 10 seconds on all four sides.
What would be the TruCut method for these?
Thanks in advance for your response.
Read this and your answer is at the bottom. ctdbowling.com/blogs/news/an-understanding-of-polish-and-bowling-balls?_pos=3&_sid=d8254a0ee&_ss=r
Read this as well. ctdbowling.com/blogs/news/an-understanding-of-sanding-and-bowling-balls?_pos=1&_sid=d8254a0ee&_ss=r
@@Ctdbowling Thank you for the information. Very helpful.
Do you have a chart that shows the difference in Abralon vs TruCut?
For example, my Zen Master is said to be 3000 Abralon. In one article you mention that if a manufacturer recommended 500/2000 Abralon, then use a 3000 TruCut. This is very confusing to many. Especially since in the same article you previously said "When using TruCut, you would go right to using 2000 grit only 5 seconds on 4 sides." So obviously there is a formula of sorts, but I'm not seeing how you get there. Many of us don't have the luxury of a ball scanner, so we are relying that doing as suggested will us to where we want to be. I want to surface my Zen Master on my spinner, so I need to know which way s best. Especially since I will not have a spinner lane-side. I know I could do by hand at the lanes, but that is not what I want.
Thanks in advance for your response!
@@CyJobes it's not straight forward because of how fast Abralon loads. Roughly it's best to go 1000 grit higher when using TruCut to convert from Abralon, but again how you use the pads matter there as well. Specifically for the Zen Master I would go 2000 TruCut, 3000 then P5000D by hand (4000 grit) to get the reaction back to what the factory intended. We will have more videos next week on this topic so make sure you subscribe and if you aren't already consider joining our staff as we have more details there as well. ctdbowling.com/collections/staff-inquiries
Question: Should you to this to Hybrid balls as well?
Yes
@@Ctdbowling thank you sir
That’s my argument with other people, put a surface on the ball that you think is close to factory , at least you can replicate the finish you put on not what the factory put on
Is it fine to drop an out of the box finish down to like 2000?
Yes you can change the surface to whatever environment you need. In this case we wanted to keep it shiny just something we could repeat.
Well you should probably try the ball first but yeah. I usually buy stuff that is for house shots like shiny peral covers. So some polish and fine sand will work great later on and it'll be close to stock. If you need something that hooks early then definitely resurface the ball but if not you might as well try a game or something first
I have a Mix that says it’s 3500 polished- what steps could I use to get that result?
That ball will scan at 5500 grit. So 2000,3000, P5000D and TruCut Hand Applied Polish Powered by Turtle Wax
@@Ctdbowling Thank you for the feedback sir!
So how would I modify the finish on my RST X-2?
It's the same as the Zen
So you can't repeat the factory finish, but you can put your own repeatable finish on the ball.
Pretty much, you can't get that "factory finish" back, but you can always get the surface grit back
That is correct
Y'all need to come out with a chart.................desired result/sequence of pads/end result.....................
We have one on our website
I have a new Hammer Obsession Tour Pearl (I have 12 games on the ball) which its finish is 500, 1000, 1500 Siaair / Crown Factory Compound. I have the CTD sanding pads and True Cut polish, how should go about getting the ball back to factory? 500, 1000, 1500, True Cut? or should I use Crown Factory Compound (which I have)? I have a ball spinner.
So you would go 2000, 3000 then the TruCut Polish.
Sir I was told that True cut 5500 will Is We'll clog the pores on a bowling ball
Did they provide any proof that is the case? Our polish is made not to clog the pores of a bowling ball. Check out our blog section on the website for details.
I’ve used both the 5500 and the new 6500 polish with 0 clogging issues. Hope this helps!
That's true cut 5500 Polish clock the poors on the ball.