Fix HDMI Input 1 Not Working - ATEM Mini Pro YUV Color Space Issue
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- Опубликовано: 14 мар 2022
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If you have an ATEM Mini Pro or ATEM Mini Extreme and you're having trouble getting Input 1 to work with your HDMI cable, check this video out because a lot of ATEM users make this big mistake.
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Thank you for this!! I was losing my mind trying to figure this out. Sincerely appreciate you!
THIS WORKED! Thanks so much, Zephan. I'm going to follow your channel.
Glad that helped!
your just one video , and a small hint in this video solve my big problem which i have been trying to figure out for weeks. Thankyou
Thanks for watching
Yet again, saved by another ZMB video! Ran into the green screen on input 1 when using a VGA to HDMI cable to show slides from a projector. Remembered this video, switched inputs and problem solved. Thanks
Thanks for sharing and clarifying this @Zephan! 🙏
OMG thank you so much for the explanation. You got a new subscriber.
Thanks for watching!
You are the best!!! I'm setting up a system at work and haven't run into this issue before. Thank you!! Subscribed!!
Glad that helped!
Thanks for this
When I saw this a several times it freaked me out. Unplugging solved the problem. However it is the first time that I here about the gaming purposing of the Atem. Thanks for the explanation.
Thanks for watching
Great video...When I need 4 cameras on the ATEM mini, my Sony Z150 and Z100 Camcorder work perfectly in channel 1.
A good clear explanation. I notice that hdmi-1 is also the default for the PiP window presets on the Atem Minis, though with the Extreme you can change it quickly using the Select Bus feature. Having to buy a Decimator MD-HX to change the colour space and fix this is an expensive PITA!
I’ve seen some people use HDMI splitters to fix the color issue too but I always keep decimators on hand anyways so I haven’t bothered to experiment.
This is a scam and this influencer was paid off to say “different perspective” and “not a problem”. AND if you call customer service they try to tell you the same thing! But guess what I found out…. Units built before a certain period of time didn’t have this issue. Then ATEM made a massive defective run of them. And guess what, units they are making now ALSO don’t have this problem. So it’s really just the poor saps that purchased from the defective run of production that only have 75% of their inputs working. Honestly, this is class action law suit worthy. But, in the meantime, return your unit, demand a refund and get a new one because the new ones work. #CoverUp
thank so much zephan
thank u so much! i thought my device was broken at first
Followed!
Hi! That happens to me from time to time with Canon 5D Mark IV and the Hollyland 300 Pro Enhanced. I resolve this changing the hdmi cables, or turning on/off the camera or Hollyoand and also, chaging Auto Resolution on the Atem Mini Pro to the same resolution of the camera.
Yep I’ve seen this happen with a lot of wireless transmitters!
In our church set up of 6 cameras and a projector for some reason camera one doesn't work when I plug in my laptop via hdmi but when I plug in the desktop hdmi all the cameras work... I hope this is video is why thats happening.
So why is it 2,3,&4 aren’t working with my canons? Only input one… blackmagic said it’s the color science on the canon m200 and r7? But shouldn’t they work on those 3?
im having the SAME issue and cant find any help
Me too
Im having the same problem as well. When I spoke tech support, they said it was something more made for gamers. That makes no sense, surely they must have known that people doing any type of videography, would plug multiple cameras in.
Hi Zephan, I love your tutorials and I'm hoping you can help me with an issue I'm having with the ATEM Mini Pro. I have a Panasonic DVX 200 that will not connect to the unit. The audio through the camera comes through the ATEM, but not the video. Any ideas?
I’m not familiar with the camera but are you able to find out if the camera has “clean” hdmi output? Also check the cables you are using. Try different cables, use cables under 10m in length and be sure to try different inputs on the atem.
Thank you for the info i had a problem with my ATEM Mini Pro ISO and my Hollyland 400s feed, do see green on HRMI 1 and 2 on ATEM Mini Pro ISO , Thankx to you i do use HDMI 3 and 4 Thank you
Glad that helped you
The Accsoon Cineview HE transmitter outputs YUV422 as told by customer support and has this exact issue. You just saved me from returning my unit to B&H thank you man!!! This was so helpful 🙌🏼 I'm subscribing the fuck out of this channel!
Hey, thanks for the tips, kind of a silly questions, the whites on my output look blown out, if I connect the source directly to a monitor, it looks good, but through the switcher blown out. I can't find the controls for camera brightness/gain in the software, or more specifically I see some things called gain, but adjusting them doesn't seem to have any affect on the picture...
The camera controls are only going to control Blackmagic cameras and will not work for other cameras. If you are streaming using the USB-C cable, it is a compressed feed, and therefore might lose detail in the highlights and the shadows.
The camera control settings are in the camera control tab in the atem software control.
I had the same problem with 2 PTZ cameras. I solved the problem by using SDI cables and an eSynic SDI/HDMI converter. This converter can convert the camera's RGB to YUV. Note that not all converters are capable of this conversion.
@@pierredubois203 oh that’s nifty and good to know! I haven’t heard of those before.
nice
Hi Zephan, I can't find any documentation in the ATEM manual that confirms what you're saying here - that the first two HDMI inputs are YUV (for extreme iso). Could you please let me know where you saw this? Thank you!
You can search any atem group on Facebook and you’ll find hundreds of posts about it or contact Blackmagic like I did directly and it’s well documented. Here’s one of many posts on the Blackmagic forum: forum.blackmagicdesign.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=166274
Thank You so much, you solved the unsolvable. Now that leaves me with another impossible question. Is it possible to use an input other than #1 for the preset PIP? I am brand new to ATEM Extreme ISO, or ATEM in general. This is my first video switcher.
You’re answer is in the manual 😀 which I recommend checking out if you’re brand new. Just google atem extreme manual and you’ll find it on blackmagics website.
We have a Mac book pro and plugged it into channel one like we had done with our PC. It distorted the screen like you showed in the video. Is there a setting on the Mac to fix the issue?
I usually run it through a decimator Md-hx and that fixes most issues. Admittedly I have to read more into this one. It could be an EDID issue in which case you could try an EDID emulator but I don’t have experience in using them.
you are the best
Thanks for watching
The thing I don't get though is, I use (d) channel 1 for lyrics to overlay in the PIP and it worked perfectly fine for about a month and then all of a sudden one day everything's hulked out. And now it's PERMANENTLY like that. Why would it have worked properly for a while but not now with no changes on my end?
Perhaps your lyrics going into input one are coming from a different computer, cable or the software that runs them was updated an outputs a signal differently.
@Zephan, the first time I plugged a camera into input 1, I got good output from the Atem mini pro iso, then later when I plugged in other devices into inputs 2, 3 and 4, I started having problems with input 1 which became green and pink as you described. When I could not get input 1 to work correctly, I watched this your video and purchased the Decimator MD-HX you suggested as a solution if I needed all inputs on the Atem mi I pro ISO because I needed all four inputs. The problem is I do not know what happened but input one is now working and I have no need for the Decimator MD-HX. I'm using all canon DSLR cameras that do not have a yuv output. I believe input 1 works with rgb as is the case right now. I believe it is not accurate to say input 1 does not work with rgb color space. I'm not sure why input 1 worked with my DSLR and then stopped working and became green/pink and then afterwards started to work again. Maybe you need to test again but input does work with the rgb color output from my DSLR cameras. I'm using the Atem Mini Pro ISO. Thanks!
George M.
Thanks George but this information comes directly from Blackmagic. You may have used a different camera, different cable or sent a different type of signal at some point but this is well documented across the atem communities.
I wonder is this why I can't get the color correct on the ATEM Switcher Board windows and live feed?
You can only use color correction with Blackmagic cameras that have CCU. What type of cameras are you using?
I have ATEM Extreme ISO and Accsoon Cineview HE and get this problem when connecting them on HDMI1&2 and ok on HDMI 3-8. Just as explained in this video. But now to my observation. When recycling the power in the ATEM (still having the Accsoon connected), HDMI 1&2 work fine upon boot. But if I then recycle the power on the Accsoon im back with the issue. In my view it means that the Atem can adopt to the HDMI signal from the Accsoon on HDMI 1&2, but its a matter of startup procedure. This is of course a problem if I need to recycle the power on any of my Accsoon connected to HDMI 1 or 2 during a live show. I cant then recycle the power of the Atem to get the camera signal correct again. There should be a configuration option to solve this, hardcoding the HDMI ports. Anyone with any idea?
I think the best path forward is simply to only use inputs 3-8 with the Accsoon for safest operation.
The Sony cameras I'm using don't seem to be affected by this problem. I'm sending the hdmi out of an a6600 to input 1 and a Sony camcorder to input 2 on an extreme iso and they show up fine. I am using 100' and 50' fiber hdmi cables respectively on those cameras if that makes a difference. I also use an original atem mini and run an old a5000 into the #1 input with no problems on a short regular hdmi cable.
Correct. This is not an issue that plagues all cameras. In fact longer cable runs have been known to be more successful with these inputs 1 and 2.
@@zephanmoses That's strange that longer cable runs would be more successful.
@@toby9815 not really. Like I mentioned in the video these inputs are designed for lowest latency so they have a little extra juice for the signal it’s receiving.
Hi very new user to ATEM MINI PRO ISO- When I first plugged in my SONY EV-10 (Port 1) and SONY ZV 1-F (HDMI PORT 2) they worked just fine on the output screen, now after 3-4 days of not using the ATEM I can only get either to show up on HDMI input 1. Ports 2,3,4 do not take any input at all. I am wondering if this is because of something that I changed in my settings on the computer. I tried a hard reset and the same problem persists...HELP :( I am dumb.
Have you changed the hdmi cable out or any other things? I would test other hdmi cables first. What length of hdmi cable were you using? Did you change the resolution in the camera to 4K? There is a setting where it might output 4K instead of HD and the atem is only compatible with HD.
I'd love to see how you use the Decimator MD-HX with input 1! I would love to us it to present a powerpoint pip while keeping the other 3 inputs free for cameras. I've been playing around with it and I'm stuck on a black screen. Thanks!
Typically just converting SDI to hdmi or hdmi to SDI depending on the switcher. Tell me more about your settings, what’s going in, what’s going out, resolutions/framerates and settings on the decimator.
@@zephanmoses I've tried a few things: MacBook directly into input 1 (black screen), MacBook to Decimator to input 1 (black screen) - Decimator says the input (from the laptop) is 3GA 1080p60. I've selected nearly every output setting... nothing seems to work. Oddly... I did get input 1 to work with an old Canon T3i DSLR.
Any thoughts... you mention at 3:05 that this is the tool to convert a signal to the correct color space. Is it as simple and selecting the correct output settings so that I can use Input 1 with my MacBook? (I ran out to buy this tool... and massively overpaid because they seem to be out of stock everywhere and I need to ward off my inner panic that says I bought a tool that won't work for the task!)
@@user-tl5qm7bj2w there are more settings on the decimator that I’d need for you to share with me in order to know if you set it up properly. I would make sure that you are using hdmi from the MacBook to the decimator input, make sure that the decimator is set to output the scaler to the hdmi output and not the SDI output, make sure that the DUC setting is set to 1080p29.97 or whatever frame rate you are hoping to use, make sure that the scaler is applied to the hdmi input and not the sdi input, make sure you’re using good high quality hdmi cables. Without knowing all of your settings on the decimator I can’t help. I would also set your time code to free run and select a color to be output when no signal is detected for troubleshooting so you can make sure a color is sent into the atem at least to prove that your settings are correct.
On top of that what MacBook are you using? Does it have hdmi out or are you using an adapter? Need more info.
I have a Atem mini pro and a PTZ optics camera . I have my computer in HDMI port 1 to display easy worship screen and want to put the camera in port 2. It shows up as a black screen. I have a decimator MD-HX. Can you advise me on the settings I should set the decimator to convert the camera to show up on port 2?
You shouldn’t need a decimator on input two. Try swapping the cables to see if the ptz works on input one first. Then, check the length of your hdmi cable. Is it too long?
Hi Zephan: Thank you for the reply. The camera does work with port 1 just perfectly but doesn't show up on port 2-4. My computer HDMI when plugged in port 1 does show up but not in 2-4. The HDMI cable from camera to ATEM is about 25 ft long. I was hoping to keep the computer on 1 and have the camera on 2 but no luck. Would the decimator work to help the computer work on port 2?@@zephanmoses
@@user-ex3je3mi3l yes a decimator would help and 25ft is the max for hdmi I would not use cables that long.
I have two options. 1: put camera in 1 and computer in 2. Any advice you can give me to help connect the computer HDMI cable from the video graphic card to the decimator to the ATEM? What settings can help me do that? Second option is keep the computer in port 1 and get the camera to work in Port 2? Any advice on how to do that since I know the HDMI cable is good since it works in port 1? I would think it should work in 2 as well. Would a SDI cable from camera to decimator SDI input to HDMI output to ATEM be better that a long HDMI cable from camera to ATEM? Please help.@@zephanmoses
@@user-ex3je3mi3l I have a video that explains how to use the decimator. It’s pretty easy. You plug the computer into the hdmi input and then using another hdmi cable from the decimator output send the signal into your atem. Then in the decimator settings, set the decimator to output the scaler over the hdmi output. Then set your scaler to scale the hdmi input (instead of sdi), finally set your desired scaler framerate (24/30/60p).
Longer cables work better in port one due to its low latency nature. That’s why it works in one and not in two.
SDI will always be better than HDMI.
Do old cameras not work in atem mini poro ?
my handycam has a 1 hdml out port but dosen't show atem mini
Is it a high definition camera?
@@zephanmoses Hi dear
My sony is sony handycam hdr-ux1
@@AliHosseinitv is it HD? Check your specifications on your device for what resolution it can output. You may need to find your manual for the device.
Anybody knows how to convert video mp4 with YUV to RGB mp4
I have an BMD extreme iso and I use it for multiple camera mixes. Only Hdmi 1 & 2 worked. The rest didn't until I used a converter. I really wish it was simply 'plug and play'. How can I make this work?
Sounds like you need cameras that output an RGB signal or you need to use different cables. But there’s no way for me to know without knowing what cameras and cables you have.
@@zephanmoses I use Sony A73 and Sony Hx100 cameras. Maybe I'd try other cables.
@@NSW_XUZIA are you using normal length hdmi cables? Typically anything over 10m long is using a chip to boost the signal which may be making them incompatible with your atem inputs.
@@zephanmoses you're right. I'd try shorter cables and get back to you. I also use hollyland transmitters and have the same issue
thanks for helping this audio guy figure out why input 1 made me look like the joker.
Ha yea a lot of people don't know about this!
It was working with any HDMI but now it is working only with ravtron HDMI, why?
I’m sorry I don’t know what ravtron hdmi is. Is that a brand of cable?
Input one and two working perfectly. But why I try to add a new camera on inside it 3 and 4. It doesn’t work
Are you using longer hdmi cables? Inputs one and two tend to work better with cables that are longer than 25ft which is about the maximum length a standard hdmi signal will transmit.
@@zephanmoses the 1 & 2 works perfectly. But 3 & 4 am having issues with. I’m using a 20m cable. I tried putting the cables that work for 1 and 2. But they don’t work for 3 and 4
@@johndestiny3926 HDMI wasn't designed to go longer than 10m. So you're already pushing your luck with a cable that simply wasn't designed to do what you're trying to do. The inputs 1 and 2 are designed for lower latency so they're going to function with those longer cables. Basically, it's doing exactly what it was designed to do. But I highly recommend getting HDMI fiber cables for anything over 10M because HDMI simply wasn't made for that.
@@zephanmoses thank you so much. I’ll buy fiber cables sir 🙏🏽
Are you sure it is YUV only at input 1, and not RGB only? You say that input 1 is meant for computers only, but computers normally outputs RGB, not YUV (or am I wrong). I'm about to buy an Atem Mini to connect four computers, so I'm a bit confused here if it will work for us.
HDMI Input one only supports YUV, so you will get a color space issue when using an RGB video source. This is direct from Blackmagic.
@@zephanmoses Thanks. But you also said that Input 1 was made for gaming (computers) ... And if computers deliver RGB, then ... ?
@@jorgenbjerke gaming systems. Not computers. PlayStation, Xbox, etc. With that said it is meant to be a lower latency input.
@@zephanmoses Ah! I see.
Today I borrowed a Mini Extreme, and tested the input 1+2 with a Chromebox, Apple-TV (HD), A Macbook and a Windows laptop. All of them worked perfectly without any hacks or tricks on both input 1 and 2, and the others as well. Just pure plug&play. I could even change the resolution of the Mac and the PC with no issues. That's awesome! So BMD claims the input 1 (1+2) only takes YUV, and all I have googled so far says that all computers only output RGB. That is very interesting :)
I'm going to use a mini to switch HDMI-sources for a big TV-screen on the stage in our church. Up till now we have used a regular 4x4 HDMI-switcher that costs more than twice the price, is unstable, and takes about 5 seconds to switch, with all kinds of noise on the screen. Annoying. But this is Heaven :)
Bro I can not explain how hard I have been searching for an answer to this issue. I have the ATEM Mini Extreme ISO and no one told me that input 1 & 2 would randomly film in this green color casting until it was too late into my 2 hours of recording SMH. So I now only use inputs 3-8. I have noticed recently the camera quality is very grainy and I have not been able to come up with a solution. I am using 5 foot HDMI cables, and 3x Panasonic G7 cameras for recording. Any feedback would be appreciated!
The G7 is a four thirds sensor so it’s never going to do well in low light situations. It’s most likely grainy because you are bumping up the ISO or you may have it in an automatic mode which will bump up the ISO in dimly lit settings.
@@zephanmoses That makes a lot of sense! I am filming a Podcast but I use very bright studio lights and still deal with the grainy look. Seems to only be like that when plugged into the ATEM Mini Extreme ISO. If it's stand alone it actually looks way better. Any thoughts!? THANK YOU!
@@MikeSicilian does it look that way on the multi view or on the recording or both?
@@zephanmoses first off I greatly appreciate you responding to this cause I've literally contacted Blackmagic and they weren't as helpful so thank you. As soon as I plug the HDMI cable into the cameras, the quality seems to reduce and I even get a warning saying "AF performance may be temporary degraded while down converting HDMI rec output (4K to 1080p)" and then just the quality goes boom and gets super grainy. Soon as I unplug it and use the camera with an SD card standalone the quality looks fantastic. It's a 1K cost machine didn't think I'd have this many issues. Appreciate any guidance!
@@MikeSicilian the G7 shoots 4K but the atem can only receive HD so that’s why. The camera is reducing the quality from 4K down to HD so that it’s compatible with the atem. So it makes sense why it’s doing that. No way around that. You’re using an HD switcher with a 4K camera.
Hdmi 2 isn't working on my mini pro
If it’s the mini pro this wouldn’t apply. It would most likely be a damaged/faulty port, a cable that is faulty or you are sending a resolution like 4K that is not compatible with the atem.
Just saved me from returning the switcher thinking its defective
LOL is a feature... since the rest can do both colors why not do all the same? problem solved. Is like in programing, something behaves not like it should then it becomes a feature and not a bug lol
Hey thanks for the comment, I don't work for Blackmagic so you'd have to take it up with them.