Thanks for the info. Took me 20 minutes. I spent more time getting tools and setting up then actually doing the job. On a side note this O2 sensor failed about 2 weeks after having the fuel pump replaced. Not sure if the two are related but food for thought.
Loosing up the O2 sensors seems to be a popular way for repair shops to bring in return customers in a week or two for a very expensive repair (for the customer)
@@kf3en Really? I never heard of this. The sensor itself was snug and not loose in any way and they know I can work on my own vehicle's. I just didn't want to do the fuel pump and CV axles myself.
A bad fuel pump can cause the engine to run erratically due to low fuel pressure but a clogged/restricted fuel filter will cause the same symptoms. The sensor works in conjunction with the engine coolant temp thermostat and the vehicle's computer. When the engine is cold the sensor is in open loop allowing the computer to richen the fuel mixture for a cold start. When the engine reaches whatever coolant temp that particular vehicle calls for the computer will cause the sensors to go in to closed loop ending the cold start rich mixture. When the sensor's fail the engine light will come on sensing a problem in most cases but not always. When the O2 sensor system indicates a failure the computer goes in to open loop and stays that way. That rich fuel condition reserved for cold starts remains. This can and will overheat the cat and destroy it if the problem is not corrected.
@@boblamb8421 Thanks Bob for the detailed response. My engine light still comes on periodically and I've ran diagnostics and it yields a plethora of possible causes. Many of those possible causes I had already replaced before doing the fuel pump i.e fuel filter, MAF sensor, cleaning i.a.c valve, etc. Then the light will go off by itself. I still average 17-18 mpg on this 3400 v6.
There appears to be a rubber type support under the male-female electrical plugs that keeps them in place and the wires away from hot exhaust pipes. Do you know how to remove them to replace or reconnect them to the male female connectors on the new oxygen sensors. Also I cannot find any part # for those supports anywhere. I think they would be necessary for this home project. Any info. you have from changing yours would be helpful. thank you so much.
I'm getting a P0420 code. Checking it out it shows that it may be the front (upstream) sensor. It looks easy enough. I'll replace the sensor this weekend. It's the original one and my 4Runner has 377K miles on it.
I was going to replace the O2 sensors, as my 4Runner came close to failing the NOX on omissions. Does this sound right? I don’t actually have a fault light, but many online sources seem to indicate that might be the sensor. And I still can’t figure out how to get to the connector on the upstream sensor.
Man it’s been years but you have to squeeze a little plastic tab that holds the male and the female end together. You may even want a small flat screw driver to help press the plastic tab down
what were symptoms of having the po133 code? i have a 98 4runner same code but dies out or stalls in park and drive i was just wondering if you were experiencing the same
I appreciate these videos help point to the location of the sensors, but most people forget to tell the viewers what the check engine light codes were, the vehicle details and what part numbers were used. The guy has a scanner and doesn't show the codes? What engine is it? 4x4? Manual? All these details matter. The first sensor is an Air/Fuel sensor heater circuit (often mistakenly called an O2 sensor) and its location is called bank one sensor one. My code was P1135 A/F SENSO HEATER CIRCUIT bank 1 sensor 1. Make sure you buy the right part and do not buy brands other than DENSO.
Thanks for the video -- couldn't you just unscrew the sensor and leave the 2 nuts alone? It's threaded... thx. Never-mind did mine - Toyota O2 sensors. Not wrench-able - video is correct! :)
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I’m glad I watched your video. I had the same exact problem, stripping one of the nuts. My new bolt extractor worked perfectly. Thx!
Thanks for the video. Showing the location and possible difficulty with that 1 bolt
Thanks for the info. Took me 20 minutes. I spent more time getting tools and setting up then actually doing the job. On a side note this O2 sensor failed about 2 weeks after having the fuel pump replaced. Not sure if the two are related but food for thought.
Loosing up the O2 sensors seems to be a popular way for repair shops to bring in return customers in a week or two for a very expensive repair (for the customer)
@@kf3en Really? I never heard of this. The sensor itself was snug and not loose in any way and they know I can work on my own vehicle's. I just didn't want to do the fuel pump and CV axles myself.
A bad fuel pump can cause the engine to run erratically due to low fuel pressure but a clogged/restricted fuel filter will cause the same symptoms. The sensor works in conjunction with the engine coolant temp thermostat and the vehicle's computer. When the engine is cold the sensor is in open loop allowing the computer to richen the fuel mixture for a cold start. When the engine reaches whatever coolant temp that particular vehicle calls for the computer will cause the sensors to go in to closed loop ending the cold start rich mixture. When the sensor's fail the engine light will come on sensing a problem in most cases but not always. When the O2 sensor system indicates a failure the computer goes in to open loop and stays that way. That rich fuel condition reserved for cold starts remains. This can and will overheat the cat and destroy it if the problem is not corrected.
@@boblamb8421 Thanks Bob for the detailed response. My engine light still comes on periodically and I've ran diagnostics and it yields a plethora of possible causes. Many of those possible causes I had already replaced before doing the fuel pump i.e fuel filter, MAF sensor, cleaning i.a.c valve, etc. Then the light will go off by itself. I still average 17-18 mpg on this 3400 v6.
nut extractor was so key, thank you
Big help, no surprise that these 3rd gens are still running
There appears to be a rubber type support under the male-female electrical plugs that keeps them in place and the wires away from hot exhaust pipes. Do you know how to remove them to replace or reconnect them to the male female connectors on the new oxygen sensors. Also I cannot find any part # for those supports anywhere. I think they would be necessary for this home project. Any info. you have from changing yours would be helpful. thank you so much.
Thank you for this video. Everything does help. 👍
Thanks. But please tell me what is the indication of the Check light.
And how it can be corrected
Both sensor are the same ?
any different between the upstream and downstream O2 sensor?
I'm getting a P0420 code. Checking it out it shows that it may be the front (upstream) sensor. It looks easy enough. I'll replace the sensor this weekend. It's the original one and my 4Runner has 377K miles on it.
Rhaspun did replacing it take care of the code because I am planning on replacing the sensor tomorrow and I am getting the same code?
@@bailey2597 Yes the code went away. I decided to replace both of them. The upstream and downstream.
Rhaspun , How did you get to the connector for the upstream sensor?
Hey bro i have a Toyota 4Runner 2002 and the nuts are lost do you know what’s size of nuts I can use it to replace this sensor ? Thanks
I was going to replace the O2 sensors, as my 4Runner came close to failing the NOX on omissions. Does this sound right? I don’t actually have a fault light, but many online sources seem to indicate that might be the sensor. And I still can’t figure out how to get to the connector on the upstream sensor.
What codes did you have??
Did the Check Engine light stay off❓ Any difference on how it runs❓
Its still off today. Runs great!
What was the original code?
@@racenuke Ok great I used Marvel's Mystery Oil in my gas & still add 4ounces every fill up & m check engine light went out & never came back on.
Did the check light stay off? My experience has been that a reset will last 100 miles by itself for this problem.
Did your gas mileage improve any?
where did you get your sensors from? Part#? I also need up and down stream for 1999 4Runner. RWD California Driven Automatic Transmission. Help!
I got them off rockauto website. Sorry I don't know the part number
How much do those cost? The sensors? Can they be cleaned rather than replaced? Obviously I’m on a tight budget
Mine cost just a bit over $100.00 from O'reilly
What about removing the downstream sensor? It's one large nut instead of two small nuts on the side
Should we replace both sensors, assuming they will both fail close to each other in time?
If you dont mind spending more money for another sensor, go for it since youre down there already. But its not absoultely necessary
THe one thing you did not show is what I needed to see, how in the world to disconnect the plug from the cable.
Yes that was the most difficult part of the job. I fought with mine for about 10 minutes. Hate those connectors.
Man it’s been years but you have to squeeze a little plastic tab that holds the male and the female end together. You may even want a small flat screw driver to help press the plastic tab down
I have a 1998 4runner and i have p130 and p133 codes which i think means bank 1 sensor 1. is this the same as your video?
thank you
Do you have part number to two sensors?
Do you remember the code that you got?
Things men find easy…but are an absolute “what the holy f did I get myself into” kinda thing a girl says…. Men are underrated !!!
what were symptoms of having the po133 code? i have a 98 4runner same code but dies out or stalls in park and drive i was just wondering if you were experiencing the same
mine was the P0171 code and it was slightly stuttering upon hot re-starts.
Thanks. Save me some time!
I appreciate these videos help point to the location of the sensors, but most people forget to tell the viewers what the check engine light codes were, the vehicle details and what part numbers were used.
The guy has a scanner and doesn't show the codes? What engine is it? 4x4? Manual? All these details matter.
The first sensor is an Air/Fuel sensor heater circuit (often mistakenly called an O2 sensor) and its location is called bank one sensor one. My code was P1135 A/F SENSO HEATER CIRCUIT bank 1 sensor 1. Make sure you buy the right part and do not buy brands other than DENSO.
Just bought a 98
Youhave to run it up too 100 miles to make sure evrything is okay if it doenst have check engine after 100 miles then its okay
wow
Thanks for the video -- couldn't you just unscrew the sensor and leave the 2 nuts alone? It's threaded... thx.
Never-mind did mine - Toyota O2 sensors. Not wrench-able - video is correct! :)
Damn all you non rust belt people...
Agreed. I’m in Iowa and I came to see what you do when the studs are sheared off
@@Midwestrecycledart Some people will grind down and re weld threaded rod.. in my latest issue that might be what i have to do.