I have changed a few of these out over the years and work with turbine engine sensors all the time for the last 30 years. This is a very good tutorial.
Try this: O2 sensors don't usually "fail" per se (except in the case of an "open heater circuit") - they get "fouled". They won't handle being dropped or banged around, but they ARE made to withstand extreme temperatures, so take advantage of that property... Use a propane torch on the end of that sucker until it glows cherry red. Monitor the output voltage as you take the tip in and out of the flame (I put them in a vise), and when it starts responding rapidly (instead of sluggishly), you have "cleaned and defouled" it. (Narrow-band sensors generate their own voltage when sufficiently warm). Reinstall, and presto.... I make no guarantees (I've had at least one this didn't work on...it stayed sluggish no matter what), but this has worked for me at least 1/2 dozen times over the years, and if the next step is replacing it anyway, what do you have to lose? FWIW, I have had NO LUCK using this procedure on WIDEBAND sensors... And yes, use anti seize to reinstall.
Something told me to RUclips what that Denso grease was before I installed it. You explained what it is and why it's important perfectly. Thank you so much.
The number one only way that always works to remove a stuck 02 sensor, egt sensors, knox sensors is to have a friend rattle the bung with an air hammer while turning the sensor gently with a wrench. I do this at work every time i get one and it works every time. Obviously you need to be an experienced air hammer operator or be able to use common sense and not ruin the bung, the exhaust or anything else but if you can operate your tools it works.
Or just have your engine run a couple of minutes to heat up the pipe and hoala. Heated metal expands and softens and you can loosen like a girl. Isn't it easy? Just don't mind the heat though. 🤣🤣🤣
#1 rookie mistake DIY enthusiasts make on an o2 sensor change: removing the sensor from a manifold/header at ambient temperature. Always preheat the sensor bung, either with a torch or by running the engine until the manifold/header is at operating temperature, unless you enjoy torn knuckles & stripped threads.
Thank you for being so thorough & very informative on important points! 💯👍..I am a female & I work on my own vehicles since I was young w/ older mechanic brother!
That’s why I’m all in on RUclips creators. So useful in so many ways. Thanks a bunch for the warnings and proper care on replacing O2 sensors for us folk who need help! I have been using RUclips to replace a lot of thing on my car and it helped a ton. I saved so much time(&mulah) and learned a whole lot without having to go through trail and error.
Very good video on this topic, one note others may have added but thought I would also, use a hose clamp around the O2 sensor to zero out the flex in the socket. May be the difference between an O2 sensor socket working for you or not.
To ease removal of O2 sensors; When engine is hot from driving, operating temp, squirt some PB Blaster or other good penetrating oil at the base where the threads are. Let it set for an hour, then remove. If that doesn't work, heat the area around the base of the sensor with a propane touch if you can or a good heat gun and squirt more Penetrating oil. Let it work a while and try again. I've never had to reheat more than twice.
Great advice! Have over 117K miles on my Tahoe. Used PB on B1S1 02 while quite warm (too hot to work on), let sit an hour and she came right out with, literally, no fuss- or busted knuckles- at all.
Some form of quality penetrating oil is likely necessary. I used Lucas brand, I believe. Irking me that I can't remember the brand I used for sure, but it worked.
@@JustAGuy85 Haven't seen that in Lucas brand but PB Blaster is widely recognized as one of the best, "CRC freeze off" works great with heat on O2 sensors too.
You can heat up the old sensor carefully around its base (threads) where it meets the header or exhaust pipe using an acetylene torch. That will help to back it out safely if it is stuck in there. If you don't have that torch, take your car to a garage and have them do it for you. Coat the sensor liberally with anti-seize being careful not to clog the holes and reinstall. Do scheduled maintenance and that will help avoid this install issue. Have an extra sensor on hand so you have it as they can go out of stock. Good video TY!
Agreed, the prior owner didn’t put anti seize on my Mitsubishi 3000gt vr4 and it was so seized that I had to but aftermarket pre-car delete pipes it actually took the threads with it. Anti seize is definitely your friend.
@@tahoma6889 I don’t think it is.. after it dries that is👋. NEVERMIND I JUST CHECKED IM RONG YOUR RIGHT - I GOOGLED IT, ‘it’s BOTH a conductor &&& an insul8r.’.. wtf🤨?
yeah it’s true, dielectruc grease is insulator but NOT a conductor, not Yz to get it on any of the connections, but only the plug not touching connections, even after pushing plug together.. silicone is a semiconductor which means it can conduct once in a while, so that’s a risk of a short in plug, therego ergo, nothing should tough connections, & diaelectric grease is less of risk than silicone👋
I have also heard never to use dielectric grease. If the factory don't use it then why should a DIY person use it ? It's a very confusing topic with many points of view. I think one should keep it simple. Remove the old sensor, apply copper anti seize to the threads of the new sensor, install and tighten, clean the car's female socket end with some electrical contact cleaner, then plug it in. The socket has a very good multi strata rubber seal so no water or dust should ever enter. If you have to add dielectric grease, then just add to the outer part of the socket to form an outer cushion.
Be careful adding anything in the plug of a o2 sensor, depending on the sensor there is a small oxygen port that supply’s the internals with fresh oxygen that helps it get actuate readings. Other then that I am a big user of dielectric grease on plugs. Great video!
No offense but don't offer advice on hi temp electric parts without knowing the science. Never use dielectric grease on anything that exceeds 350 unless it's rated for 500. But still exhaust exceeds that. Furthermore dielectric grease is Non conductive
Rusted sensor or rusted bolt? Try using Hoppys #9 or military grade bore cleaner on the sensor or bolt. Be patient, soak it for 15 50 20 minutes. Then TIGHTEN the unit until it breaks loose. Then back it out. Be careful. I am 75 years on this planet and with patience this system works!
Just few says ago on my 95 toyota avalon with original o2 sensors , changed the downstream cat. ALWAYS wait for exhaust is way cooled off, prespray sensor with wd 40 or equivalent and let sit for few hours at least, overnight is best. Then the correct socket for these is also best. To beeak sensor loose is to use a shot blow hammer to initially break rust loose, then probably only jand loosen feom then on. I did custom exhaust for 15 of my 35 years as a mechanic and i swear by, done properly, this method proved to by far be the best with fewer stripped threads than any other method we tried.
@@snugglygollo9103 thats the torque to tighten the o2 and thats done with a torque meter in this case its 30 foot pound you will neeed a torque meter in range 10-90 foot pounds
@@maxguod If you know it needs to be replaced, it doesn't matter what you do as long as you can get it off. I have used a cut off wheel and that works.
Very well done. I would add that the silicone dielectric grease *must* be kept away from the business end of the sensor. Silicone is like cyanide to O2 sensors. I do agree with using dielectric grease in the connector, though. The O2 sensor is a high impedance voltage source, and will not do well if any water finds its way inside the connector. (50 years in electronics)
Thanks, finally someone with experience in electronics on here. Yea a little dielectric grease will help in the connector like I've been saying. Definitely install it into the exaust first then put the grease in the connector that way you don't mess up the sensor end.
I don’t understand what you were saying, can you clarify? You were saying keep it away from the business end of the sensor but then put it on the sensor? Can you explain it a little further please ?
Do not put dielectric grease in the connector - it creates resistance. It's strictly for putting on the rubber boot only to help create seal. The metal connectors must stay clean.
I sprayed all four with Freeze-Off . Bank 2 downstream was the worse( passenger side rear). I finally had to used a pipe wrench , positioned my foot on the handle and pushed slowly. Success. 😊
A tip for breaking out to old sensor. Soak them with wd-40 or liquid wrench or something a couple of times a day for a few days before you change them. The consistent soaking with the heating up and cooling off usually makes a big difference in breaking them out. Also, put an open end wrench on it and wack it with a hammer a few times before trying to break it out.
Agree!! Comment from an OLD mechanic/plumber, etc. If you can tap lightly with a hammer on the wrench, pipe or part itself while pulling on the wrench, without damaging the part, sometimes it is all it takes to "jar" the part loose.
Not sure if it's in here but another quick tip is when you crack it loose don't just unscrew with force but tighten and loosen with ease back and forth all the way until you get it out. Seen a lot of people just unzip them out and screw the thread up.
You don't need no special socket to remove a bad o2 sensor. Just cut the dam old wire off, take a deep socket and hammer it in. If that doesn't work, just break the end off the O2 so you only are left with a nut flush on the pipe. Hammer on a 6 point socket and go to town on that Mfer
I like it but some are saying they save the old upstream one that's still working and use it as a downstream sensor if one of those ever goes bad. Could save you $50+ but that may not be worth the headache.
Very helpful, even though I have a 2007 Mini Cooper. The codes all indicate O2 sensor, so I will replace it, but I will definitely follow your expert suggestions.
I have replaced a lot of 02 sensors and sometimes the 02 sensors are froze to the bung hole threads in the exhaust pipe and removing the old 02 sensor strips out the threads, when that happens you need to take the vehicle to a muffler shop to replace the bad section with a new one, and if it's a catalytic converter that bolts directly to the head then you have to replace the converter.
*@**2:28* Yes, COPPER anti seize is very important- it operates with millivolts- and it needs the best ground connection possible. A _heated_ O2 has a ground for the heater circuit and sensor, so no attention to ground is necessary. I had to edit this 4 year old post, another viewer named WhiteCollarRedneck pointed out my previously incorrect post.
That is the main reason copper anti seize was formulated. It's also advisable to use on spark plugs, too. The other advantageous use of it is for exhaust fasteners (manifold nut & bolts, pipe connections, etc.) The old silver stuff (Molybdenum Disulphide) is terrible at conducting electricity, so it's pretty much unused now, but still good for general use.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP I can never remember which one, copper or silver is used for what purpose. The silver stuff is a lot more common. I would use the copper stuff on high heat nuts and bolts. You are saying to use it on spark plugs too instead of the silver stuff?
Yes. The "silver stuff" contains no Silver. It is basically a slippery mineral (Molybdenum Disulfide) that has very poor conductivity in high heat applications. In comparison- Copper is far superior. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide There are reasons why companies do things. Most reputable O2 & AFR sensors come with Copper now.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Wow, thanks for the lesson on anti sieze. I know it's not actually silver, but I didn't know that it has Molybdenum in it. They say aluminum on the packaging. Must be just marketing. Yea, I have noticed that the O2 sensors come with the copper verson. Which kind do you like to use with spark plugs?
Never never use dielectric grease on the connector. The sender samples out side air and the air is brought in through the connector. Grease will clog the passage. Air is going to sender through the wires and insulation
He didn't say it, but you can rent those removal kits that have those special sockets for the wire to fit through. You don't have to buy them. No need to.
Just because you get an HO2S lean code does not necessarily mean the sensor is bad. You should definitely test it first. In my case I just hooked up my scanner so I could monitor the data stream in real time as I drive. If the HO2S voltage is fluctuating between 0 and .9 Volts as you drive the thing is working like it should, and your problem is elsewhere, most likely a vacuum leak
I had a real nice Snap-On that died and I could not afford to replace, then I had a great Auto X-Ray that died and the company went out of business. I currently use an Actron 9660 which is not as good as the previous scanners but one of the few that will do pre OBDII systems. And of course a versatile multi-meter is always handy.
Love your straight forward information no nonsense. This will help me be a better mechanic. Thank you very much my friend. Very informative. People like you is what RUclips was really made for. Not these other yuppie nonsense floating about. Take cate.
Great clip mate very thoughtful to think of the people who might buy your car not having trouble with parts removal , awsome tips too good one mate ,cheers
I've only replaced like five of these in my life, and the first three I got out with the special deep split socket, but then I had one that was really stuck and I ended up cracking the special deep split socket. I ended up just taking a hammer and breaking off the end of the old O2 sensor, cutting the wire and using a regular 6-point socket to break it loose. The deep split socket or a wrench works good for installing them.
Comment from an OLD mechanic/plumber, etc. If you can tap lightly with a hammer on the wrench, pipe or part itself while pulling on the wrench, without damaging the part, sometimes it is all it takes to "jar" the part loose.
I'm not a mechanic and have a dumb question. If you're replacing the old O2, would it be possible just to cut the wire off and use a regular impact socket and wrench on it to remove it?
NOTES FROM THIS VIDEO: - DON'T TOUCH THE SENSOR METAL - REMOVE WITH A BREAKER BAR (POSSIBLY WITH A IMPACT WRENCH?) - BEFORE YOU INSTALL NEW O2 SENSOR: +APPLY DIALECTRIC GREASE +APPLY ANTI-SEIZE +DISCONNECT BATTERY - LOOK UP TORQUE FOR O2 SENSOR AND REAPPLY WITH A TORQUE WRENCH
Torque wrench really you torque your O2 sensors. Just use common sense it needs to be tight not 100 foot pounds. Anti-seize yes high temp of coarse. Dielectric grease yes leave the torque wrench in the toolbox just tighten it up .
I have changed out multiple o2's out over the years and never had a problem. I use a cut in half 7/8 wrench. Heat half of the bung red hot and use the box end of the wrench and tap it loose with a hammer. Tighten the new one down with the open end. Doesn't even have to be that tight. Pretty easy.
Yes. Once the wrench is on it's usually just one hit to break it free. The shorter cut in half wrench helps because most often there is not enough room for a long wrench. The heat with a torch is the biggest help.
I had the same problem with it being hard to take it I just cut the old one and put the wrench on there easy and used a breaker bar and it came off easy
Great video. There is a lot of total misinformation out there and mechanics making videos that make working on your car look impossible. You kept it simple and this alone let me locate my O2 sensor. I took my car to a place and was told that you have to take the engine out to replace it. I figured that was a lie and searched RUclips and after your video I looked under the hood and sure enough there it was. Thanks again. You saved me thousands.
These slime ball auto mechanics is the reason i took a mechanic course and only buy simple cars that i can work on They are so dumb they dont realise that the consumer is on to them and eventually they will go out of business.Especially with the information you can pick up on youtube about you vehicle.
Changed mine on 05 Corolla yesterday. Looked to be original….totally cooked and covered w carbon. PB blaster soak on a warm exhaust manifold for 20 min and a crescent wrench and came out easy. Thanks for dielectric grease tip! I’ll add that today.
Nice video However instead of running out to buy new O2 sensors, everyone should try to clean them by burning off the carbon and other deposits O2's collect over time. Easy to do with a bench vise and a propane torch. Simply carefully put the O2 sensor in the vise by the wrench flats, sensor end upwards, be very careful of the wires! Then heat up the end with the torch until the end is GLOWING bright red. Once it is a nice more or less even red (including the parts inside the slotted holes (peek in there and try to get that red as possible too). Then let it all cool down naturally and reinstall. (DO NOT use any sort of water or chemical cleaning on these!) Chemicals dont work anyway for this, and can leave more deposits as well! I do the Burn thing when I have a little time to kill and it works 90% of the time too! Save you a bunch of cash. You cant really hurt the O2 sensor doing this so dont be afraid, sensors like 600F and more in normal operation, the heat is what keeps them clean. Stop and start trips in cold weather is what makes them get dirty, also spraying chemicals on them! Of course eventually the platinum catalyst in them does wear away, but the burn cleaning is worth a try at least once (or twice sometimes.)
I've been watching a handful of videos and other commenters say cleaning can make them read better but they might not still work. The ones in my 04 truck have never been removed much less cleaned or replaced, so it's likely cleaning is a waste of time.
If you already know your 02 sensors are shot and already have the new ones,you can just cut the old cables and use a large enough deep well socket,no special socket needed. You can use a regular wrench to put the new 02 sensor in,once you finally get the impossibly tight 02 sensor out. A cheap 02 split socket for removing the 02 sensor will flex,slipping on the shoulder of the 02. Making a home made socket by noching an old socket will also result in slipping.
Yea, someone else mentioned this too. It is a great idea if the split sockets keep slipping and flexing. Although, it might not be the sensor that's the problem and once you cut the old one you no longer have a spare.
Walter Sopchak Could you please explain how you do that? I cannot fathom how a pipe clamp can keep one from slipping. I sadly sold my socket designed for removing those...I still dont know what I was thinking. Generally, you always test the 02 sensor anyways before cutting the cord. Using a simple multimeter can tell you if it is bad. Testing the wire to the unit can be done with a 12volt headlight from a garden tractor. Use the bulb holder and solder wires with alligator clips to the ends of the connectors. You dont need a fancy oscilloscope to test an 02 sensor. if it doesnt heat up, its dead. if it showes open circuit, its dead, yes its that simple.
Matt's Shop You would test the 02 sensor BEFORE cutting the cord. It is so simple to test them. An open ground,dead. if it doesnt heat up, dead, use a 12volt garden tractor bulb holder with alligator wires to test the wires to the 02 sensor first. 90 percent of 02 failures is corroded wires. They cannot be repaired, ever. The wires are special, like a toaster wire. I never chop wires on anything until I know its dead.
Tip: If you got four sensors (upstream/downstream) it only makes sense to install new upstream sensors which control air/fuel ratio. Keep the two old upstream sensors as spares for the downstream sensors which only monitor the oxygen in the converters.
That's right, passing knowledge you learned to others is our true purpose in this world, you might know this, and if you don't, well here some more knowledge for you little brother, not all vehicles have four O2 sensors, some just have two, the upstream and downstream
Rocky Nelson I would say that true, although I don't know for sure, I'd guess you would be talking about older cars and the new electric vehicles, perhaps you would like to pass your knowledge along, It would be good for the purpose of not knowing.
Good info! Riddle me this ; I have a 2000 S10 2.2L. Very well maintained. About 85,000 it threw 2 o2 sensor codes (up and downstream). I replaced them with Bosch o2 sensors since that's what my auto parts store sells. A few months later the codes came back. The store replaced them. A few months later same issue. More than a few techs have told me for some reason they can't figure out G.M. vehicles only like G.M. o2 sensors. (made by N.T.K.) I thought this was CRAZY but replaced them with O.E.M. and its been 5 years and 35,000 miles with no problems. Thoughts?
+Shepperd November There was a mechanic on here that had a ton of experience. He said that Bosch O2 sensors were trash. Look through the comments. You'll find it.
Matt's Shop Thanx. That has not been my experience. I have installed Bosch O2 sensors and Chrysler, Ford, and imports. However, I will agree with you that I prefer either nippondenso or ntk sensors. Cars just seem to perform better with them.
Good job! I take one exception though. The application of dielectric grease is not an insulator as it does conduct a small abount of current. For some appllications this would not make any noticeable difference however, the signals from O2 sensors are very small and in the cases where the feedback signal is in millivolts this could be a problem. In fact electronic and computer manufacturers specifically provide instructions on how to properly use this grease. Believe it or not they suggest using a toothpick or something of that diameter to very sparingly apply the grease on the edge of the connector around the pins and then more liberally on the gasket surrounding the connector. Now I've been in the tech sector for over 30 years and I have to admit up until just a few years ago I didn't know this but when you get down to it, I haven't vetted this with doing my own experiments. I've learned to just follow directions as manufacturers usually spend much effort in developing the data and writing their spec sheets. Plus it takes specialized equipment to try and prove them wrong and to what avail? Great job on the video though. Appreciate your efforts.
You definitely saved me from catching a shit show! 2009 pontiac g6 gt 02 sensor. I got the same brand. My replacement I have to splice and crimp to the plastic connector piece. Gonna do it tomorrow morning. Thanks for your very helpful advice!
Doesn't matter if you touch the end of the sensor or not, the actual reactive sensor part of it is protected inside of it. So as long as you don't dip it in goop or cake it with crap then it'll be fine. And like the many comments say, heat up the area where the sensor threads into. Whether it's with a torch or running the car for a few minutes it'll help considerably. Also changing just the one causing the code is fine but if you have the bux & like a good running ride then it doesn't hurt to change them all. Work smarter not harder.
+john green I agree with working smarter not harder, but I still think it's best to not touch the sensor. Why touch it? Theres a reson they tell you not to touch it. It's a rather sensitive and expensive part. What happens if a piece of dirt or hair gets down into the sensor's end. My guess is that it would mess it up.
@@MattsShop my new o2 sensor came seized and capped. As I was pulling off the cap the seize tapped the end of the o2 sensor very slightly leaving some seize on the tip. I wiped it off with a clean rag and installed it. Really considering pulling out that new o2 swap it out for another one. Do you think it’ll make a huge difference? Thanks in advance!
I buy dielectric grease in a red tube that is pressurized. I just squeeze the little handle on the side and I usually don’t have to touch it afterwards. It has a slide on the outside that increases/ decreases the output flow.
Many O2 sensors (zyrconium based) works comparing INSIDE gas with OUTSIDE athmosphere. The opening for the outside side of the sensorr is the plastic isolator of the wires, in particular the opening in that external isolator near the plug. Putting any substance on the plug CAN affect and contaminate the sensor leading to wrong readings.... So be careful with that dieletric grease!
I always use my MAP gas torch to remove. Spray some PB Blasters on em, wait a while. Try to crank on em, if they don’t come off, grab a MAP gas torch and heat up The O2 sensors. They’ll break off after you do that. I just did this today on my new vehicle.
Yea, people are saying that small gas torches help A LOT. MAPP gas is better anyway because it gets hotter than propane! Most guys said they use a propane torch if I remember correctly.
Great video and it is great that you included the links. I already have bought mine, but that is a nice touch for sure. Your explanation was good even though I would have enjoyed watching the work but probably hard to edit.
+Cheryl Shady Thanks, I figured the info on how to do it was more valuable than 1 minute of changing a sensor. I have a lot of other videos working on stuff. Thx for the positivity!
Awesome. I learned a lot. My 97 cougar 4.6 will NOT pass inspection. All kinds of codes! I'm replacing those and the catalytic converter. next. As far as touching, I never even thought of that. I guess the oil on the fingers? Exelent video 👍
Why is the video called: Never change another 02 sensor, when you're showing to replace sensors? Thought it would be a tutorial on how not to replace them. Great video though.
I used anti seiz on my Denso. 160k miles later, I couldn't take it out. I had to use a cordless impact wrench to take it out. It was due to excessive speed, the sensor thread melted.
Heat the bung that it threads into with a propane torch then it should come out. If you aren't trying to save the sensor just cut the wires and put a 22 mm wrench or socket on it you will get a better bite on the flats of the sensor. Less chance of it rounding off.
All good and true info. Appreciate the video. Hope this helps someone. I’ll just add that you can rent that tool at most auto parts stores for a fully refundable deposit. Rental might be a $200 deposit but they can refund it back to your credit card if you just use that. Call and reserve it too, very important.
Last ones I did I used a breaker bar and slipped a fence post over the breaker bar. It was like an 8’ pipe. Came out like cake, but yes they’re stuck like shit every time
Auto Zone offers a free loaner for the sensor sockets. They have a kit that includes 3 of them. At my local Auto Zone, the deposit was $30 + tax (about $33 total), which was 100% refundable when the tool was returned.
Chris Chiampo: I have been a mechanic for more then 30 years and in the Retail parts business for more then 6. I would not use Vaseline for anything other then a sore. Dielectric Grease is formulated to give you better voltage "Pass Through" to the circuits then Vaseline can. Also, dielectric grease will last longer and being a "grease" it lubricates the electronic connectors. keeping them from rusting for a longer period of time. By the way, good video.
+John La Frieda You heard the man, haha. Yea, I would always use the right product for the job. Saying vaseline is the same as dielectric grease is like saying 10W-30 is the same as 140W oil. It's all oil right?
LOL.... Absolutely. One never wants to turn to something "similar" because you may save a few pennies. "Penny wise is dollar foolish." Save a few cents now, spend allot of bucks later to correct your a problem that YOU caused. After all, we all know that rust FOLLOWS an electric current, causing rust to follow the wire loom under the insulation. IE: Battery Corrosion.
I assumed he meant after its connected to seal the connection after its together, like spark plugt boots etc, connections already have a crush ring seal the grease is so moisture can not infiltrate as readily if immersed or wet.
Liked for the simple fact you say y’all !!
Haha nice
And “these ones”
TD-us . . Haha! Same here.
TD-us hey y'all!
What up y'all!!!
I have changed a few of these out over the years and work with turbine engine sensors all the time for the last 30 years.
This is a very good tutorial.
Try this: O2 sensors don't usually "fail" per se (except in the case of an "open heater circuit") - they get "fouled". They won't handle being dropped or banged around, but they ARE made to withstand extreme temperatures, so take advantage of that property... Use a propane torch on the end of that sucker until it glows cherry red. Monitor the output voltage as you take the tip in and out of the flame (I put them in a vise), and when it starts responding rapidly (instead of sluggishly), you have "cleaned and defouled" it. (Narrow-band sensors generate their own voltage when sufficiently warm). Reinstall, and presto.... I make no guarantees (I've had at least one this didn't work on...it stayed sluggish no matter what), but this has worked for me at least 1/2 dozen times over the years, and if the next step is replacing it anyway, what do you have to lose? FWIW, I have had NO LUCK using this procedure on WIDEBAND sensors... And yes, use anti seize to reinstall.
Thanks for this info ❤
Something told me to RUclips what that Denso grease was before I installed it. You explained what it is and why it's important perfectly. Thank you so much.
You are not lying! The hardest part is removing the old sensor(s). This is a quality video, for certain.
spray some liquid wrench on it and use the socket.
@Broa-y3z or you can apply PB Blaster on the nut and let it sit for 30 minutes in a warm climate or an insulated garage, if you live in the midwest.
This was not a click bait, it was actually useful. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Believe it or not (!) sometimes it helps to try to tighten a stuck bolt/nut/O2 sensor(?) THEN try to loosen it.
The number one only way that always works to remove a stuck 02 sensor, egt sensors, knox sensors is to have a friend rattle the bung with an air hammer while turning the sensor gently with a wrench. I do this at work every time i get one and it works every time. Obviously you need to be an experienced air hammer operator or be able to use common sense and not ruin the bung, the exhaust or anything else but if you can operate your tools it works.
Or just have your engine run a couple of minutes to heat up the pipe and hoala. Heated metal expands and softens and you can loosen like a girl. Isn't it easy? Just don't mind the heat though. 🤣🤣🤣
Yeah I am trying everything I can
So true.. also sometimes tapping it lightly
It works for me every time
#1 rookie mistake DIY enthusiasts make on an o2 sensor change: removing the sensor from a manifold/header at ambient temperature. Always preheat the sensor bung, either with a torch or by running the engine until the manifold/header is at operating temperature, unless you enjoy torn knuckles & stripped threads.
That's what the auto tech at Auto Zone said when I bought an 02 sensor took kit. He said to heat it up - first.
I just raced my truck for a few minutes they still didn't come out easy
I did that, burned the heck out of my hands, stupid to do it hot!!
My fixer said opposite. He said if you remove O2 sensor when its still hot/warm, it breaks easily even with a little tap
In theory, heat makes things expand
So I would tend to think, cooler would be better. 🤯
I'll have to do more research on this.
Thank you for being so thorough & very informative on important points! 💯👍..I am a female & I work on my own vehicles since I was young w/ older mechanic brother!
That’s why I’m all in on RUclips creators. So useful in so many ways. Thanks a bunch for the warnings and proper care on replacing O2 sensors for us folk who need help! I have been using RUclips to replace a lot of thing on my car and it helped a ton. I saved so much time(&mulah) and learned a whole lot without having to go through trail and error.
Yep...RUclips is my Cookbook😊on Anything, Car, Truck, House!!👍💯🦅
Very professionally described. Especially those experienced tips of handling care NOT to touch the tip 5:40. Great heads-up. Thanks.
You are welcome! Thanks for the positive comment!
Very good video on this topic, one note others may have added but thought I would also, use a hose clamp around the O2 sensor to zero out the flex in the socket. May be the difference between an O2 sensor socket working for you or not.
To ease removal of O2 sensors; When engine is hot from driving, operating temp, squirt some PB Blaster or other good penetrating oil at the base where the threads are. Let it set for an hour, then remove. If that doesn't work, heat the area around the base of the sensor with a propane touch if you can or a good heat gun and squirt more Penetrating oil. Let it work a while and try again. I've never had to reheat more than twice.
Thank u my brother I needed this information
Great advice! Have over 117K miles on my Tahoe. Used PB on B1S1 02 while quite warm (too hot to work on), let sit an hour and she came right out with, literally, no fuss- or busted knuckles- at all.
@@larrywatson9400 The CRC "Freeze Off" works well with heat also.
Some form of quality penetrating oil is likely necessary. I used Lucas brand, I believe. Irking me that I can't remember the brand I used for sure, but it worked.
@@JustAGuy85 Haven't seen that in Lucas brand but PB Blaster is widely recognized as one of the best, "CRC freeze off" works great with heat on O2 sensors too.
You can heat up the old sensor carefully around its base (threads) where it meets the header or exhaust pipe using an acetylene torch. That will help to back it out safely if it is stuck in there. If you don't have that torch, take your car to a garage and have them do it for you. Coat the sensor liberally with anti-seize being careful not to clog the holes and reinstall. Do scheduled maintenance and that will help avoid this install issue. Have an extra sensor on hand so you have it as they can go out of stock. Good video TY!
I hear them say run car for 1 minute first so maybe that is why?
Agreed, the prior owner didn’t put anti seize on my Mitsubishi 3000gt vr4 and it was so seized that I had to but aftermarket pre-car delete pipes it actually took the threads with it. Anti seize is definitely your friend.
Thank you!! Finally someone that gets it and likes to keep their threads in place and not ripped out.
Maybe u coulda use heat? Micro torch the o2. While car is hot
Also cool car
WARNING! Dielectric grease has insulating properties and putting it on the contacts of low power sensors or their fuses can cause the circuit to fail.
Good note. At the opposite end, a friend of mine was pretty surprised to learn that Silicon is conductive.
ik i watched cameron niemela and his bike wouldnt start
@@tahoma6889
I don’t think it is.. after it dries that is👋. NEVERMIND I JUST CHECKED IM RONG YOUR RIGHT - I GOOGLED IT, ‘it’s BOTH a conductor &&& an insul8r.’.. wtf🤨?
yeah it’s true, dielectruc grease is insulator but NOT a conductor, not Yz to get it on any of the connections, but only the plug not touching connections, even after pushing plug together.. silicone is a semiconductor which means it can conduct once in a while, so that’s a risk of a short in plug, therego ergo, nothing should tough connections, & diaelectric grease is less of risk than silicone👋
I have also heard never to use dielectric grease. If the factory don't use it then why should a DIY person use it ? It's a very confusing topic with many points of view.
I think one should keep it simple.
Remove the old sensor, apply copper anti seize to the threads of the new sensor, install and tighten, clean the car's female socket end with some electrical contact cleaner, then plug it in. The socket has a very good multi strata rubber seal so no water or dust should ever enter.
If you have to add dielectric grease, then just add to the outer part of the socket to form an outer cushion.
Be careful adding anything in the plug of a o2 sensor, depending on the sensor there is a small oxygen port that supply’s the internals with fresh oxygen that helps it get actuate readings. Other then that I am a big user of dielectric grease on plugs. Great video!
Ee4
Yes I always have a tube of dielectric grease in my kit it's a must have in my opinion.
@@NCpanther01 Ee4 ?? What is that ?
That's the reference port and it's usually where the wires go into the sensor.
No offense but don't offer advice on hi temp electric parts without knowing the science. Never use dielectric grease on anything that exceeds 350 unless it's rated for 500. But still exhaust exceeds that. Furthermore dielectric grease is Non conductive
this guy killed it, super detailed and spot on, great job!
Rusted sensor or rusted bolt? Try using Hoppys #9 or military grade bore cleaner on the sensor or bolt. Be patient, soak it for 15 50 20 minutes. Then TIGHTEN the unit until it breaks loose. Then back it out. Be careful. I am 75 years on this planet and with patience this system works!
Great tips! I like PB Blaster and acetone. The acetone thins and carries the oil into the threads.
Just few says ago on my 95 toyota avalon with original o2 sensors , changed the downstream cat. ALWAYS wait for exhaust is way cooled off, prespray sensor with wd 40 or equivalent and let sit for few hours at least, overnight is best. Then the correct socket for these is also best. To beeak sensor loose is to use a shot blow hammer to initially break rust loose, then probably only jand loosen feom then on. I did custom exhaust for 15 of my 35 years as a mechanic and i swear by, done properly, this method proved to by far be the best with fewer stripped threads than any other method we tried.
Nice. I just learned how to remove an O2 sensor from the box (and plastic) it was shipped in.
Spray stuck/tight sensor(s) thread with PB Blaster, over night, if need be. Helps to easily remove sensor without stripping threads.
Thank you!!
Great video! Did this once before and got lucky, as I did not know about the dielectric grease or not touching the sensor tip!-John in Texas
What does he mean by pounds?
@@snugglygollo9103 thats the torque to tighten the o2 and thats done with a torque meter in this case its 30 foot pound you will neeed a torque meter in range 10-90 foot pounds
I really like how specific you are when it comes to describing every step and hint thank you you were very helpful.
yeah its great
*_That's one clear camera. The !ighting was perfect. Just subbed. 👍🏼_*
Thanks for the sub!
Good advice on many parts,I've been using anti seize for many years on advice from a co- worker.
FYI If your going to replace the O2 Sensor then cut the pigtail wire at the sensor and use a deep socket to remove the old one.
Exactly! Those O2 sockets will slip. I found that out two bloody knuckles later.
Sometimes I bust the top part of the 02 sensor off and use a short socket/breaker bar to make it easy in tight spots -
@@maxguod If you know it needs to be replaced, it doesn't matter what you do as long as you can get it off. I have used a cut off wheel and that works.
Man up- muscle baby... lol j/k these are a bitch sometimes. Just replaced mine recently and all 5 came out easily.
Make sure the engines warm put the 02 socket on and try to break lose if unsuccessful break off and get a socket to take off
Very well done. I would add that the silicone dielectric grease *must* be kept away from the business end of the sensor. Silicone is like cyanide to O2 sensors.
I do agree with using dielectric grease in the connector, though. The O2 sensor is a high impedance voltage source, and will not do well if any water finds its way inside the connector.
(50 years in electronics)
Thanks, finally someone with experience in electronics on here. Yea a little dielectric grease will help in the connector like I've been saying.
Definitely install it into the exaust first then put the grease in the connector that way you don't mess up the sensor end.
,,
L
@@rudyzoller3682 Grow Up
I don’t understand what you were saying, can you clarify? You were saying keep it away from the business end of the sensor but then put it on the sensor? Can you explain it a little further please ?
Do not put dielectric grease in the connector - it creates resistance. It's strictly for putting on the rubber boot only to help create seal. The metal connectors must stay clean.
There is low voltage grease which is suppose to be OK. I have not found any in the auto marts I have been to.?
Yep. Dielectric grease will transmit an electric field, but not allow charge to flow.
I sprayed all four with Freeze-Off . Bank 2 downstream was the worse( passenger side rear). I finally had to used a pipe wrench , positioned my foot on the handle and pushed slowly. Success. 😊
A tip for breaking out to old sensor.
Soak them with wd-40 or liquid wrench or something a couple of times a day for a few days before you change them.
The consistent soaking with the heating up and cooling off usually makes a big difference in breaking them out.
Also, put an open end wrench on it and wack it with a hammer a few times before trying to break it out.
Agree!! Comment from an OLD mechanic/plumber, etc. If you can tap lightly with a hammer on the wrench, pipe or part itself while pulling on the wrench, without damaging the part,
sometimes it is all it takes to "jar" the part loose.
I touch it with my wifes 12 speed vibrator for a few minutes to loosen it ....a rabbit vibrator is good for hard to reach areas
I feel like slow and evenly applied torque would reduce the chances of the hex rounding off.
Not sure if it's in here but another quick tip is when you crack it loose don't just unscrew with force but tighten and loosen with ease back and forth all the way until you get it out. Seen a lot of people just unzip them out and screw the thread up.
You need a good torque bar and work it really slowly. I did the two lower and it worked out nice and threads were good.👍
You don't need no special socket to remove a bad o2 sensor. Just cut the dam old wire off, take a deep socket and hammer it in. If that doesn't work, just break the end off the O2 so you only are left with a nut flush on the pipe. Hammer on a 6 point socket and go to town on that Mfer
I like it but some are saying they save the old upstream one that's still working and use it as a downstream sensor if one of those ever goes bad. Could save you $50+ but that may not be worth the headache.
And if that don't work just drive the mofo as is.😂
I’m working at denso just had my orientation and I’ll be making these
Thank you bruddah 🦅💯🇺🇸 Americans always willing to help
Love that very , precise, clear, easy to hear talking...👍
Thx thats what I go for.
Very helpful, even though I have a 2007 Mini Cooper. The codes all indicate O2 sensor, so I will replace it, but I will definitely follow your expert suggestions.
Yea, man do it this way!
I have replaced a lot of 02 sensors and sometimes the 02 sensors are froze to the bung hole threads in the exhaust pipe and removing the old 02 sensor strips out the threads, when that happens you need to take the vehicle to a muffler shop to replace the bad section with a new one, and if it's a catalytic converter that bolts directly to the head then you have to replace the converter.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I really appreciate it .
You're welcome!
It's good and helpful.... It's important to know "Do and Don't" "Should & SHould Not".
Thanks
*@**2:28* Yes, COPPER anti seize is very important- it operates with millivolts- and it needs the best ground connection possible. A _heated_ O2 has a ground for the heater circuit and sensor, so no attention to ground is necessary. I had to edit this 4 year old post, another viewer named WhiteCollarRedneck pointed out my previously incorrect post.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Great points, I didn't even think about getting and keeping a good ground by using anti-seize.
That is the main reason copper anti seize was formulated. It's also advisable to use on spark plugs, too. The other advantageous use of it is for exhaust fasteners (manifold nut & bolts, pipe connections, etc.) The old silver stuff (Molybdenum Disulphide) is terrible at conducting electricity, so it's pretty much unused now, but still good for general use.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP I can never remember which one, copper or silver is used for what purpose. The silver stuff is a lot more common. I would use the copper stuff on high heat nuts and bolts. You are saying to use it on spark plugs too instead of the silver stuff?
Yes. The "silver stuff" contains no Silver. It is basically a slippery mineral (Molybdenum Disulfide) that has very poor conductivity in high heat applications. In comparison- Copper is far superior. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide There are reasons why companies do things. Most reputable O2 & AFR sensors come with Copper now.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Wow, thanks for the lesson on anti sieze. I know it's not actually silver, but I didn't know that it has Molybdenum in it. They say aluminum on the packaging. Must be just marketing.
Yea, I have noticed that the O2 sensors come with the copper verson. Which kind do you like to use with spark plugs?
Never never use dielectric grease on the connector. The sender samples out side air and the air is brought in through the connector. Grease will clog the passage. Air is going to sender through the wires and insulation
He didn't say it, but you can rent those removal kits that have those special sockets for the wire to fit through. You don't have to buy them. No need to.
Tip...sometimes the part is only $5-$10 more to buy than to rent. So definitely ask for both prices before making decision.
@@ThePokerStreets916 where do you rent them from? Auto parts store?
@@TheRakuman yes. I've rented tools from autozone before. Most auto parts stores should have them, you can always call and ask before driving there.
Dude, i went to autozone in maine. $30 to rent, $30 to own. kinda a no brainer on that one. Its gonna gather a lot of dust! 🤪
This was extremely helpful. I appreciate you going the extra mile to make sure we get it right.❤
Just because you get an HO2S lean code does not necessarily mean the sensor is bad. You should definitely test it first. In my case I just hooked up my scanner so I could monitor the data stream in real time as I drive. If the HO2S voltage is fluctuating between 0 and .9 Volts as you drive the thing is working like it should, and your problem is elsewhere, most likely a vacuum leak
Good info! Most people are not able to do this. They don't have a scanner that can monitor this stuff so they just replace them.
Nice, because the codes I have have a small vac leak, that could be awesome if the vac leak is the real issue....tks for that info
Hi Utwo,
What tools do you use for scanning etc?
I had a real nice Snap-On that died and I could not afford to replace, then I had a great Auto X-Ray that died and the company went out of business. I currently use an Actron 9660 which is not as good as the previous scanners but one of the few that will do pre OBDII systems. And of course a versatile multi-meter is always handy.
Yea I bet that Snap On scan tool was real nice. The Actron ones are pretty basic aren't they?
Love your straight forward information no nonsense. This will help me be a better mechanic. Thank you very much my friend. Very informative. People like you is what RUclips was really made for. Not these other yuppie nonsense floating about. Take cate.
I'm glad I watched your video. It helped. I'm getting ready to attempt this in a few weeks with my car. Thanks!
Same here!! Only thing is.. Im really not wanting to buy the tools to remove it!😑uhh
@@wendylucas9628 Me neither, but for my SUV it might save me $300 to buy the tools and do it.
@@joharinichols2652 ok.. Yeah..thats clearly a, "GOTTA GO GET THE TOOL!"😏 $300 IS ALOT
Great clip mate very thoughtful to think of the people who might buy your car not having trouble with parts removal , awsome tips too good one mate ,cheers
I've only replaced like five of these in my life, and the first three I got out with the special deep split socket, but then I had one that was really stuck and I ended up cracking the special deep split socket. I ended up just taking a hammer and breaking off the end of the old O2 sensor, cutting the wire and using a regular 6-point socket to break it loose. The deep split socket or a wrench works good for installing them.
Y’all and Holy Mackerel is an everyday part of my vocabulary.🤠🤘
Heating up your exhaust for a couple minutes before trying to remove o2 sensors helps a bit. At least in my experience it has helped.
👌👌👌
Yup change it after a drive just wear welding gloves and it comes out pretty quick
Wd40 no heat needed
Comment from an OLD mechanic/plumber, etc. If you can tap lightly with a hammer on the wrench, pipe or part itself while pulling on the wrench, without damaging the part,
sometimes it is all it takes to "jar" the part loose.
I'm not a mechanic and have a dumb question. If you're replacing the old O2, would it be possible just to cut the wire off and use a regular impact socket and wrench on it to remove it?
But then, how do you torque it back on if you can’t get a regular socket over the wire
NOTES FROM THIS VIDEO:
- DON'T TOUCH THE SENSOR METAL
- REMOVE WITH A BREAKER BAR (POSSIBLY WITH A IMPACT WRENCH?)
- BEFORE YOU INSTALL NEW O2 SENSOR: +APPLY DIALECTRIC GREASE +APPLY ANTI-SEIZE +DISCONNECT BATTERY
- LOOK UP TORQUE FOR O2 SENSOR AND REAPPLY WITH A TORQUE WRENCH
Darren c just do it the old school way righty tighty not too much crap basic grandpa mechanic skills is all you need
Torque wrench really you torque your O2 sensors. Just use common sense it needs to be tight not 100 foot pounds. Anti-seize yes high temp of coarse. Dielectric grease yes leave the torque wrench in the toolbox just tighten it up .
A good mechanic should have an elbow torque accuracy within 20%
I have changed out multiple o2's out over the years and never had a problem. I use a cut in half 7/8 wrench. Heat half of the bung red hot and use the box end of the wrench and tap it loose with a hammer. Tighten the new one down with the open end. Doesn't even have to be that tight. Pretty easy.
Good idea to hit a cut in half wrench with a hammer. Could even use a air hammer if you have one.
Yes. Once the wrench is on it's usually just one hit to break it free. The shorter cut in half wrench helps because most often there is not enough room for a long wrench. The heat with a torch is the biggest help.
Yea, that's a good idea to cut it in half for more room.
I had the same problem with it being hard to take it I just cut the old one and put the wrench on there easy and used a breaker bar and it came off easy
Great video. There is a lot of total misinformation out there and mechanics making videos that make working on your car look impossible. You kept it simple and this alone let me locate my O2 sensor. I took my car to a place and was told that you have to take the engine out to replace it. I figured that was a lie and searched RUclips and after your video I looked under the hood and sure enough there it was. Thanks again. You saved me thousands.
Thanks, comments like this are why I keep making videos. I am glad I saved you all that money!
These slime ball auto mechanics is the reason i took a mechanic course and only buy simple cars that i can work on They are so dumb they dont realise that the consumer is on to them and eventually they will go out of business.Especially with the information you can pick up on youtube about you vehicle.
@@76kamikazi what are the "simple" cars?
@@ricomajestic Ford Crown Vic.
Thank you , Sir! Very informative, especially since I've done nothing like this before.
Anytime!
dude thank you for making this helped so much!
You are welcome! That's exactly why I made this video. Glad I could help out!
Changed mine on 05 Corolla yesterday. Looked to be original….totally cooked and covered w carbon. PB blaster soak on a warm exhaust manifold for 20 min and a crescent wrench and came out easy. Thanks for dielectric grease tip! I’ll add that today.
You REALLY are SO RIGHT ABOUT everything you said ABOUT ANY O2 sensor I AM a REAL ASE certified Master auto technician what about 60 years experience
THANK YOU! Some who actually knows!
Nice video However instead of running out to buy new O2 sensors, everyone should try to clean them by burning off the carbon and other deposits O2's collect over time. Easy to do with a bench vise and a propane torch. Simply carefully put the O2 sensor in the vise by the wrench flats, sensor end upwards, be very careful of the wires!
Then heat up the end with the torch until the end is GLOWING bright red. Once it is a nice more or less even red (including the parts inside the slotted holes (peek in there and try to get that red as possible too). Then let it all cool down naturally and reinstall. (DO NOT use any sort of water or chemical cleaning on these!) Chemicals dont work anyway for this, and can leave more deposits as well!
I do the Burn thing when I have a little time to kill and it works 90% of the time too! Save you a bunch of cash. You cant really hurt the O2 sensor doing this so dont be afraid, sensors like 600F and more in normal operation, the heat is what keeps them clean. Stop and start trips in cold weather is what makes them get dirty, also spraying chemicals on them!
Of course eventually the platinum catalyst in them does wear away, but the burn cleaning is worth a try at least once (or twice sometimes.)
I've been watching a handful of videos and other commenters say cleaning can make them read better but they might not still work. The ones in my 04 truck have never been removed much less cleaned or replaced, so it's likely cleaning is a waste of time.
@@Born-Again-Warrior If you are not getting any O2 sensor errors then leave them alone.
If you already know your 02 sensors are shot and already have the new ones,you can just cut the old cables and use a large enough deep well socket,no special socket needed. You can use a regular wrench to put the new 02 sensor in,once you finally get the impossibly tight 02 sensor out. A cheap 02 split socket for removing the 02 sensor will flex,slipping on the shoulder of the 02. Making a home made socket by noching an old socket will also result in slipping.
Yea, someone else mentioned this too. It is a great idea if the split sockets keep slipping and flexing. Although, it might not be the sensor that's the problem and once you cut the old one you no longer have a spare.
You can add a pipe clamp to keep it from slipping if you are trying to remove it to get it out of the way for example and don't want to cut the cord
Walter Sopchak Could you please explain how you do that? I cannot fathom how a pipe clamp can keep one from slipping. I sadly sold my socket designed for removing those...I still dont know what I was thinking. Generally, you always test the 02 sensor anyways before cutting the cord. Using a simple multimeter can tell you if it is bad. Testing the wire to the unit can be done with a 12volt headlight from a garden tractor. Use the bulb holder and solder wires with alligator clips to the ends of the connectors. You dont need a fancy oscilloscope to test an 02 sensor. if it doesnt heat up, its dead. if it showes open circuit, its dead, yes its that simple.
Matt's Shop You would test the 02 sensor BEFORE cutting the cord. It is so simple to test them. An open ground,dead. if it doesnt heat up, dead, use a 12volt garden tractor bulb holder with alligator wires to test the wires to the 02 sensor first. 90 percent of 02 failures is corroded wires. They cannot be repaired, ever. The wires are special, like a toaster wire. I never chop wires on anything until I know its dead.
RC Hobbyist Extreme I saw it on a RUclips video.. I think I searched stuck o2 sensor
Tip: If you got four sensors (upstream/downstream) it only makes sense to install new upstream sensors which control air/fuel ratio. Keep the two old upstream sensors as spares for the downstream sensors which only monitor the oxygen in the converters.
Yes, this is what I do exactly.
I also have 4
Thank you,GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR SERVICES IN THIS WORLD😘👍
You're welcome!
Pretty informational video, thanks. 👍 One additional quick tip, that socket box for O2 sensor, you can loan it free at AutoZone.
That's right, passing knowledge you learned to others is our true purpose in this world, you might know this, and if you don't, well here some more knowledge for you little brother, not all vehicles have four O2 sensors, some just have two, the upstream and downstream
yeah, i'm lucky my celica only has 2
And furthermore some vehicles don't have any at all !!!
Rocky Nelson I would say that true, although I don't know for sure, I'd guess you would be talking about older cars and the new electric vehicles, perhaps you would like to pass your knowledge along, It would be good for the purpose of not knowing.
Good info! Riddle me this ; I have a 2000 S10 2.2L. Very well maintained. About 85,000 it threw 2 o2 sensor codes (up and downstream). I replaced them with Bosch o2 sensors since that's what my auto parts store sells. A few months later the codes came back. The store replaced them. A few months later same issue. More than a few techs have told me for some reason they can't figure out G.M. vehicles only like G.M. o2 sensors. (made by N.T.K.) I thought this was CRAZY but replaced them with O.E.M. and its been 5 years and 35,000 miles with no problems. Thoughts?
+Shepperd November There was a mechanic on here that had a ton of experience. He said that Bosch O2 sensors were trash. Look through the comments. You'll find it.
Matt's Shop Thanx. That has not been my experience. I have installed Bosch O2 sensors and Chrysler, Ford, and imports. However, I will agree with you that I prefer either nippondenso or ntk sensors. Cars just seem to perform better with them.
Could be the voltage.
Some real good and relevant information.. appreciated! However, I wished you'd actually change yours out for us to see.
Buy from you local parts dealer...on line has no support and painful when they send the wrong part. Great advice on this video.
Yea, sometimes it's hard to get the right parts ordered.
Good job! I take one exception though. The application of dielectric grease is not an insulator as it does conduct a small abount of current. For some appllications this would not make any noticeable difference however, the signals from O2 sensors are very small and in the cases where the feedback signal is in millivolts this could be a problem. In fact electronic and computer manufacturers specifically provide instructions on how to properly use this grease. Believe it or not they suggest using a toothpick or something of that diameter to very sparingly apply the grease on the edge of the connector around the pins and then more liberally on the gasket surrounding the connector. Now I've been in the tech sector for over 30 years and I have to admit up until just a few years ago I didn't know this but when you get down to it, I haven't vetted this with doing my own experiments. I've learned to just follow directions as manufacturers usually spend much effort in developing the data and writing their spec sheets. Plus it takes specialized equipment to try and prove them wrong and to what avail? Great job on the video though. Appreciate your efforts.
Thanks for teaching us exactly where grease points are and where not to apply.
You definitely saved me from catching a shit show! 2009 pontiac g6 gt 02 sensor. I got the same brand. My replacement I have to splice and crimp to the plastic connector piece. Gonna do it tomorrow morning. Thanks for your very helpful advice!
The don't touch or meddling with the socket part. Big help thanks again!
You're welcome, good luck!
Doesn't matter if you touch the end of the sensor or not, the actual reactive sensor part of it is protected inside of it. So as long as you don't dip it in goop or cake it with crap then it'll be fine. And like the many comments say, heat up the area where the sensor threads into. Whether it's with a torch or running the car for a few minutes it'll help considerably. Also changing just the one causing the code is fine but if you have the bux & like a good running ride then it doesn't hurt to change them all. Work smarter not harder.
+john green I agree with working smarter not harder, but I still think it's best to not touch the sensor. Why touch it? Theres a reson they tell you not to touch it. It's a rather sensitive and expensive part. What happens if a piece of dirt or hair gets down into the sensor's end. My guess is that it would mess it up.
@@MattsShop my new o2 sensor came seized and capped. As I was pulling off the cap the seize tapped the end of the o2 sensor very slightly leaving some seize on the tip. I wiped it off with a clean rag and installed it. Really considering pulling out that new o2 swap it out for another one. Do you think it’ll make a huge difference? Thanks in advance!
Lots of great detailed info. Thanks a lot for your help.👍
I buy dielectric grease in a red tube that is pressurized. I just squeeze the little handle on the side and I usually don’t have to touch it afterwards. It has a slide on the outside that increases/ decreases the output flow.
I just heat them up with a torch and it comes out like butter
Many O2 sensors (zyrconium based) works comparing INSIDE gas with OUTSIDE athmosphere. The opening for the outside side of the sensorr is the plastic isolator of the wires, in particular the opening in that external isolator near the plug.
Putting any substance on the plug CAN affect and contaminate the sensor leading to wrong readings.... So be careful with that dieletric grease!
Thanks for such an informative video, ready to tackle on this job fully inspired, didn't know how sensitive these units are, good looking out
Thanks man, you're welcome.
Nate Diaz is that you? Good vid bro
It's me!
Thanks bud, really glad I watched this before replacing mine.
I always use my MAP gas torch to remove. Spray some PB Blasters on em, wait a while. Try to crank on em, if they don’t come off, grab a MAP gas torch and heat up
The O2 sensors. They’ll break off after you do that. I just did this today on my new vehicle.
Yea, people are saying that small gas torches help A LOT. MAPP gas is better anyway because it gets hotter than propane! Most guys said they use a propane torch if I remember correctly.
Thanks for all the tips and being really detailed.
Great video and it is great that you included the links. I already have bought mine, but that is a nice touch for sure. Your explanation was good even though I would have enjoyed watching the work but probably hard to edit.
+Cheryl Shady Thanks, I figured the info on how to do it was more valuable than 1 minute of changing a sensor. I have a lot of other videos working on stuff. Thx for the positivity!
Awesome. I learned a lot. My 97 cougar 4.6 will NOT pass inspection. All kinds of codes! I'm replacing those and the catalytic converter. next. As far as touching, I never even thought of that. I guess the oil on the fingers? Exelent video 👍
Thanks, If you have a lot of codes, you need to replace the O2 sensors. It will help.
Great video. Spoke really well and explained everything.
Top tip: use a torch to heat the bung not the sensor itself then quench with BP BLASTER she will pop right out
Why is the video called: Never change another 02 sensor, when you're showing to replace sensors?
Thought it would be a tutorial on how not to replace them.
Great video though.
I meant never change them without this info.
It literally says never change another one until u watch this video....
I used anti seiz on my Denso. 160k miles later, I couldn't take it out. I had to use a cordless impact wrench to take it out.
It was due to excessive speed, the sensor thread melted.
Easy & simple, common sense instructions 👌
Right on man, great job of running that out for folks. thanx
thanks very good info also remind people that they can borrow the tools from the auto parts store instead of buying tools
Yes
Get the engine up to temp first. Comes out no problem.
Lol.....not all of them!
Heat the bung that it threads into with a propane torch then it should come out. If you aren't trying to save the sensor just cut the wires and put a 22 mm wrench or socket on it you will get a better bite on the flats of the sensor. Less chance of it rounding off.
All good and true info. Appreciate the video. Hope this helps someone. I’ll just add that you can rent that tool at most auto parts stores for a fully refundable deposit. Rental might be a $200 deposit but they can refund it back to your credit card if you just use that. Call and reserve it too, very important.
Last ones I did I used a breaker bar and slipped a fence post over the breaker bar. It was like an 8’ pipe. Came out like cake, but yes they’re stuck like shit every time
Very thorough and useful tips. Thanks.
22mm open wrench works great to pop them off
Thank you bro. I was wondering if a wrench would work.
Auto Zone offers a free loaner for the sensor sockets. They have a kit that includes 3 of them. At my local Auto Zone, the deposit was $30 + tax (about $33 total), which was 100% refundable when the tool was returned.
+David Monroe Yea, that's where this kit came from.
cheaper at a better deal on ebay...and u own it forebber
cheaper than free ?? hmmm
and the kit is junk. get a map torch and a crescent x6. that sensor will com out in a minute
You can keep the rental tools for 3 months.
Chris Chiampo: I have been a mechanic for more then 30 years and in the Retail parts business for more then 6. I would not use Vaseline for anything other then a sore. Dielectric Grease is formulated to give you better voltage "Pass Through" to the circuits then Vaseline can. Also, dielectric grease will last longer and being a "grease" it lubricates the electronic connectors. keeping them from rusting for a longer period of time. By the way, good video.
+John La Frieda You heard the man, haha. Yea, I would always use the right product for the job. Saying vaseline is the same as dielectric grease is like saying 10W-30 is the same as 140W oil. It's all oil right?
LOL.... Absolutely. One never wants to turn to something "similar" because you may save a few pennies. "Penny wise is dollar foolish." Save a few cents now, spend allot of bucks later to correct your a problem that YOU caused. After all, we all know that rust FOLLOWS an electric current, causing rust to follow the wire loom under the insulation. IE: Battery Corrosion.
I assumed he meant after its connected to seal the connection after its together, like spark plugt boots etc, connections already have a crush ring seal the grease is so moisture can not infiltrate as readily if immersed or wet.