Hi Sam, great video and very informative, I think I have a problem with the salts, until I found you in RUclips I thought I had a problem with either chimney pointing or flashing etc, every time the weather gets damp or something brings moisture into my attic bedroom patches show on the chimney breast wall, the dehumidifier running greatly improves but now the wall even when dry is permantely marked. My question is, is the only solution to use the dry flex or hack off the original plaster and start again, could I just like clad over the wall and make a nice panelled wall instead or would I be trapping in the problem and causing other issues down the line, thanka in advance for any thoughts on this. 👍
@dampsam thanks, what are the isolation options, it would be great if I could apply something as a barrier to the existing plaster and then maybe batten the wall out and create a new surface of some kind, maybe cladding/panelling or brick slips or am I barking up the wrong tree. 🤔
Damp Sam, thank you for your informative videos! I'm trying to help my parents get damp spots on the chimney wall fixed. They had a leak from the chimney , which has been fixed, but that took time to get done. So I think the chimney got wet inside. So after a drying out period the builder came and re plasterboarded and plastered.... and low and behold the damp spots appeared. I got a damp surveyor out and he diagnosed the salt dampness. I resisted saying Damp Sam told me this! He has proposed removal of recently installed plasterboard, install Delta PT System and re-plastering at a cost of £1,200. I don't think it involves any drainage system so I'm concerned any moisture from the chimney ( Residual wetness from the leak; any penetrating damp from old chimney bricks) might condense behind this and cause dampness down the bottom. I clearly think I'm an expert after watching your videos! Far from. I wonder if the treatment above would work instead of the more extensive treatment. I would be *very* grateful for your advice! Jen
Hi jan, there are different methods of isolating the salts and a large proportion of damp contractors do use the cavity drainage membrane, it is designed so air will flow across the surface of the masonry evaporating any ingress.. not many know how to use the dry flex system but it is an option if the plaster is sound.
For weeks I've been searching for something like this video and knowledge of products. Thanks for sharing, we've been trying to use damp stop or zinsser paint but the staining is still coming through on the top of the chimney breast and top of the ceiling with the heavy heavy rain we've seen recently! (Chimney has a cowl fitted, house built in 1880 so definetly would have had heavy fossil fuel use pre being blocked up)
Without seeing at least some pictures I can’t really comment, you need to make sure the right system is used for the right type of damp problem. At this time of year it could be a number of types of dampness affecting the wall.
Yes your right they are a chemical based fluid but in plastering terms they are referred to as a mechanical key as opposed to a physical key when you scratch render or use a comb scratch.
Great video as always damp Sam is your man who can FIX IT
Thank you 🙏
Hi Sam, great video and very informative, I think I have a problem with the salts, until I found you in RUclips I thought I had a problem with either chimney pointing or flashing etc, every time the weather gets damp or something brings moisture into my attic bedroom patches show on the chimney breast wall, the dehumidifier running greatly improves but now the wall even when dry is permantely marked. My question is, is the only solution to use the dry flex or hack off the original plaster and start again, could I just like clad over the wall and make a nice panelled wall instead or would I be trapping in the problem and causing other issues down the line, thanka in advance for any thoughts on this. 👍
The wall needs an isolation system if it’s sulphate salts or you will keep getting issues
@dampsam thanks, what are the isolation options, it would be great if I could apply something as a barrier to the existing plaster and then maybe batten the wall out and create a new surface of some kind, maybe cladding/panelling or brick slips or am I barking up the wrong tree. 🤔
Damp Sam, thank you for your informative videos! I'm trying to help my parents get damp spots on the chimney wall fixed. They had a leak from the chimney , which has been fixed, but that took time to get done. So I think the chimney got wet inside. So after a drying out period the builder came and re plasterboarded and plastered.... and low and behold the damp spots appeared.
I got a damp surveyor out and he diagnosed the salt dampness. I resisted saying Damp Sam told me this! He has proposed removal of recently installed plasterboard, install Delta PT System and re-plastering at a cost of £1,200. I don't think it involves any drainage system so I'm concerned any moisture from the chimney ( Residual wetness from the leak; any penetrating damp from old chimney bricks) might condense behind this and cause dampness down the bottom. I clearly think I'm an expert after watching your videos! Far from. I wonder if the treatment above would work instead of the more extensive treatment. I would be *very* grateful for your advice! Jen
Hi jan, there are different methods of isolating the salts and a large proportion of damp contractors do use the cavity drainage membrane, it is designed so air will flow across the surface of the masonry evaporating any ingress.. not many know how to use the dry flex system but it is an option if the plaster is sound.
@@dampsam Thanks so much Sam for taking the time to reply! Can you please come to Glasgow for a job and I'll feed you haggis and whisky?
For weeks I've been searching for something like this video and knowledge of products. Thanks for sharing, we've been trying to use damp stop or zinsser paint but the staining is still coming through on the top of the chimney breast and top of the ceiling with the heavy heavy rain we've seen recently! (Chimney has a cowl fitted, house built in 1880 so definetly would have had heavy fossil fuel use pre being blocked up)
Great stuff thanks for watching
Cool. Great tips mate 👍
Thanks for watching 👌
Will the new plastering on top be level, if you don't hack off the old plaster?
Yes a good plasterer can blend in anything
Great idea.
Thank you 🙏
If you wss to patch up plaster knocked off bottom of an internal wall that had salts ( no leak) what would you use for a house in 1930s? Ta.
Without seeing at least some pictures I can’t really comment, you need to make sure the right system is used for the right type of damp problem. At this time of year it could be a number of types of dampness affecting the wall.
I thought bonding agents were chemical and not mechanical
Yes your right they are a chemical based fluid but in plastering terms they are referred to as a mechanical key as opposed to a physical key when you scratch render or use a comb scratch.
covering just about all bases there damp Sam, almost like you're guessing .. 😂