Nice Build. The good, 1) you have a nice healthy low mileage motor; 2)you are likely making 360whp since a mustang dyno is about 15% low reading, compared to the correct reading dynojet, so, you could even call it 360whp; and 3)you seem like a straight up honest guy(s), giving the real cost, not BS. The bad, there is actually no equivalent to the K20A2 (RSX-S motor) in Japan except the red top JDM K20A-R (DC5-ITR motor), while the base model K20A3 equivalent is the Silver top JDM K20A. Therefore, since it's a silver top JDM K20A, it's a base motor with low mileage. Nothing more. No different. Maxing out that motor, is about 350whp, which is about what you are at. So, you're good. I'm sure there are people that have taken it to 400whp, but that's a huge risk. Some corrections: 1) 3:01 There is no Type-S wing on the 02-04 from the factory, the dealer optional wing is lower than the Type-R wing, not the other way around. Maybe you meant the A-Spec wing, which came out in 2004 as an option, and it was called the factory performance wing, which was later changed to be called the A-Spec Wing. 2) 5:27 It's 400lph, not 400cc, fuel pump (never mind, I think that's an old product of DW, called the 400c, which may have been 440lph actually); 3)4:04 The steering wheel column plastic cover does go back on nicely, you just have to take some time to study how it goes back together, broken tabs or not, it will lay flat back together, nicely. You can put some small slits in it, and put zipties if you want it nice and tight, but it's not noticeable if you put it together correctly. 5:59 I would not do the lightweight flywheel with a turbo setup, as you will get more clutch chatter with the increased clamping force pressure plate. The flywheel will flex more easily, than stock, basically. So, stock 14lb Type-S flywheel is best... till you go to a twin disk, but that's for around 550whp. The fuel return line, braided lines, etc is overkill for your setup, but you have that out of the way for when you go with a non-base model engine, larger turbo, larger intercooler, 4bar map sensor, etc etc. The stock fuel lines, can handle 380whp. So, stock would have been just at the limit. 6:57 Lastly, I'm impressed that you have an EM2 clutch master cylinder. I thought only geniuses knew about the fix/swap to that CMC, from the garbage oem. It fixes all manual transmissions for Hondas/Acuras, from after the EM2 all the way to brand new Honda Civic Type-Rs, including Accords, Elements, CRV, etc etc. Next to do... I recommend getting a nice paint job on it. Make it look nice! The base model 5speed tranny has very very long gears, you might want to look for a good deal on an EP3 5speed tranny (about $600) which is longer than an 02-04 RSX-S tranny, which is longer than an 05-06 RSX-S tranny. It's what most people with 400whp go with. So, technically an 02-04 RSX-S tranny would also work, but very expensive ($1600). The more power you have, the longer the gears you want, 02-04 RSX-S tranny is good for under 400whp, EP3 for 400-550whp, base RSX tranny for over 550whp. Again, nice build! Congrats on completing the build!
I have a base rsx. Just got it. It has clutch slip I am waiting for a new one to come in. But I didn't think the gears were all that long. Then again I can't really go past 4k without it slipping besides in 4th and maybe 5th but I'm not trying to max it out yet. Just making sure it runs alright.
@Lenny Tate Just think... if you had an RSX-S motor it it, it can go 9200RPM all day/month/yr long, with no mods but a retune/adjustment of the rev limiter. That's more than twice the RPMs you are currently going to. So, your gears are really, really long. The transmission doesn't know what engine you have. So, technically, if you turbo a base RSX motor (or JDM equivalent), and you're at 360whp, the transmission is OK, since you are going to 7800rpm at the most. EP3 transmission, at that hp and rpms, would be better. Definitely don't go 02-04 RSX-S tranny, too short of gears for that setup. Then, when/if you swap your base engine w/turbo setup with a RSX-S motor, the higher hp and rpms will also be good for the EP3 tranny.
Actually it is. There is actually no equivalent to the K20A2 (RSX-S motor) in Japan except the red top JDM K20A-R (DC5-ITR motor), while the base model K20A3 equivalent is the Silver top JDM K20A. Therefore, since it's a silver top JDM K20A, it's a base motor with low mileage. Nothing more. No different.
@@copperkeyracing6167 This is a Base RSX, in the USA that means an Acura RSX. The RSX came with a K20a3 base engine. Making a reference to a Base RSX states it is a base model RSX. Nothing more, nothing less. A lot of people drive a base RSX and get a lot of smoke because it is not a "type-s" so when you see people boosting a base model you'd want to see a k20a3 turbo.
@Daniel Pacheco That's exactly the point I'm making about what car and engine this is. If you were to go to Japan, you couldn't get a base RSX because they don't call it that. They call it an Integra, Integra iS, or an Integra Type-S. All three have the same motor. They have a base model motor, a motor that is different from their Integra Type-R. There are only two k20s for the DC5 integra in Japan. So, if you buy a motor out of one of those, and not out of the Integra Type-R, all the internals are EXACTLY the same as our base RSX motor. The valve cover is also silver, just like on our base RSX. Our DC5 RSX Type-S has a silver valve cover, but its JDM equivalent is the red valve cover k20a out of the DC5 Integra Type-R. Many people don't realize that the motor is stamped K20A on both the JDM DC5 base(integra/integra iS, Integra Type-S) model motor and on the JDM DC5 Type-R motor. The only difference from the outside is the valve cover. So, no, it doesn't say k20a3 on the block, but it's internally EXACTLY the same. It's like, "Cool stamping, bro, but it's [essentially] still a base RSX motor."
@@Sauczi Read it again. I never said that a base RSX motor is the same as a DC5 Type-R motor. All K20a[_] motors in Japan are stamped K20A. So a k20a3 here in the USA [out of a base RSX or EP3] has an equivalent in Japan, and it is stamped a K20A in Japan. A K20A2 does not exist in Japan, so there is no exact equivalent, but the K20A DC5/EP3 Type-R motor is the nearest equivalent. To summarize USDM=>JDM equivalent K20A3=>K20A with equivalent eternals out of DC5, DC5 iS, DC5 Type-S, but not DC5-R K20A2=>K20A out of DC5/EP3 Type-R, but with half point extra compression from different pistons & K20Z1/DC5-R/EP3-R cams
REAL PRICE? About $5-6k.. Like 90% of people dont do their own labor.. And boosting a Honda is alot more involved than it seems.. And u also gotta consider fuel. If you dont do the installation, u are looking at like $1000 minimum for labor, running fuel lines, piping, tapping oil return, gauges... Then you got tuning. And its probably $5k minimum using cheaper parts.. U want to a run a good Turbo kit with a good garrett or Precision with all Vband, and a good fuel system like a full Radium setup with great injecters, with all proper heat coating and protections, you looking like $10k..
@@illiwashere bro what is your problem? I own a motorsports shop and have been modifying and tuning dc5's for about 15 years now. I was simply giving my advice and my experience of cost, because many people look for videos like this, but they arent really realistic. For reasons I explained above.
@@JonHop1 He one of those Spanish dudes prob with an ebay ricer Honda and got offended that you gave a realistic take and scenario on how much modding these cars actually costs. Like you said, most people dont do their own work and labor, so its important people have ballpark numbers of what it takes to have a turbo kit installed and work properly and reliably.
The biggest things are the battery and air box. Some kits don’t require you to relocate the battery but for our set up, we did relocate the battery. Everything else is dependent on your turbo kit.
@@copperkeyracing6167 ahh okay.. I spent a small fortune on my build. Got the Type R head and TSX bottom end(built motor). Garrett g30-990 and AWD kit from S1.. Took over a month but had the turbo housing and Sheepey manifold head shielded by Thermo Met in the Uk.. Saw Jamie from OG do it on his Type R and had to try it out. Bay temps our insanely low. Suspension is Bilstein ep3 b16's on the Porsche/BMW damptronic system. Whole chassis was professionally sound deadened as well so its super quiet and comfortable in-cabin. Made 591 on 93 and and 730whp on e85.
Nevermind they should of said Kswap since the beginning I thought they meant a boosted k20a3 which is possible to keep a A3 stable with boost without blowing it up, I got clickbaited😂
Nice Build. The good, 1) you have a nice healthy low mileage motor; 2)you are likely making 360whp since a mustang dyno is about 15% low reading, compared to the correct reading dynojet, so, you could even call it 360whp; and 3)you seem like a straight up honest guy(s), giving the real cost, not BS. The bad, there is actually no equivalent to the K20A2 (RSX-S motor) in Japan except the red top JDM K20A-R (DC5-ITR motor), while the base model K20A3 equivalent is the Silver top JDM K20A. Therefore, since it's a silver top JDM K20A, it's a base motor with low mileage. Nothing more. No different. Maxing out that motor, is about 350whp, which is about what you are at. So, you're good. I'm sure there are people that have taken it to 400whp, but that's a huge risk.
Some corrections: 1) 3:01 There is no Type-S wing on the 02-04 from the factory, the dealer optional wing is lower than the Type-R wing, not the other way around. Maybe you meant the A-Spec wing, which came out in 2004 as an option, and it was called the factory performance wing, which was later changed to be called the A-Spec Wing. 2) 5:27 It's 400lph, not 400cc, fuel pump (never mind, I think that's an old product of DW, called the 400c, which may have been 440lph actually); 3)4:04 The steering wheel column plastic cover does go back on nicely, you just have to take some time to study how it goes back together, broken tabs or not, it will lay flat back together, nicely. You can put some small slits in it, and put zipties if you want it nice and tight, but it's not noticeable if you put it together correctly.
5:59 I would not do the lightweight flywheel with a turbo setup, as you will get more clutch chatter with the increased clamping force pressure plate. The flywheel will flex more easily, than stock, basically. So, stock 14lb Type-S flywheel is best... till you go to a twin disk, but that's for around 550whp.
The fuel return line, braided lines, etc is overkill for your setup, but you have that out of the way for when you go with a non-base model engine, larger turbo, larger intercooler, 4bar map sensor, etc etc. The stock fuel lines, can handle 380whp. So, stock would have been just at the limit.
6:57 Lastly, I'm impressed that you have an EM2 clutch master cylinder. I thought only geniuses knew about the fix/swap to that CMC, from the garbage oem. It fixes all manual transmissions for Hondas/Acuras, from after the EM2 all the way to brand new Honda Civic Type-Rs, including Accords, Elements, CRV, etc etc.
Next to do... I recommend getting a nice paint job on it. Make it look nice! The base model 5speed tranny has very very long gears, you might want to look for a good deal on an EP3 5speed tranny (about $600) which is longer than an 02-04 RSX-S tranny, which is longer than an 05-06 RSX-S tranny. It's what most people with 400whp go with. So, technically an 02-04 RSX-S tranny would also work, but very expensive ($1600). The more power you have, the longer the gears you want, 02-04 RSX-S tranny is good for under 400whp, EP3 for 400-550whp, base RSX tranny for over 550whp.
Again, nice build! Congrats on completing the build!
I have a base rsx. Just got it. It has clutch slip I am waiting for a new one to come in. But I didn't think the gears were all that long. Then again I can't really go past 4k without it slipping besides in 4th and maybe 5th but I'm not trying to max it out yet. Just making sure it runs alright.
@Lenny Tate Just think... if you had an RSX-S motor it it, it can go 9200RPM all day/month/yr long, with no mods but a retune/adjustment of the rev limiter. That's more than twice the RPMs you are currently going to. So, your gears are really, really long. The transmission doesn't know what engine you have. So, technically, if you turbo a base RSX motor (or JDM equivalent), and you're at 360whp, the transmission is OK, since you are going to 7800rpm at the most. EP3 transmission, at that hp and rpms, would be better. Definitely don't go 02-04 RSX-S tranny, too short of gears for that setup. Then, when/if you swap your base engine w/turbo setup with a RSX-S motor, the higher hp and rpms will also be good for the EP3 tranny.
I feel cat fished, this is not a base RSX motor lol.
Actually it is. There is actually no equivalent to the K20A2 (RSX-S motor) in Japan except the red top JDM K20A-R (DC5-ITR motor), while the base model K20A3 equivalent is the Silver top JDM K20A. Therefore, since it's a silver top JDM K20A, it's a base motor with low mileage. Nothing more. No different.
@@copperkeyracing6167 This is a Base RSX, in the USA that means an Acura RSX. The RSX came with a K20a3 base engine. Making a reference to a Base RSX states it is a base model RSX. Nothing more, nothing less. A lot of people drive a base RSX and get a lot of smoke because it is not a "type-s" so when you see people boosting a base model you'd want to see a k20a3 turbo.
@Daniel Pacheco That's exactly the point I'm making about what car and engine this is. If you were to go to Japan, you couldn't get a base RSX because they don't call it that. They call it an Integra, Integra iS, or an Integra Type-S. All three have the same motor. They have a base model motor, a motor that is different from their Integra Type-R. There are only two k20s for the DC5 integra in Japan. So, if you buy a motor out of one of those, and not out of the Integra Type-R, all the internals are EXACTLY the same as our base RSX motor. The valve cover is also silver, just like on our base RSX. Our DC5 RSX Type-S has a silver valve cover, but its JDM equivalent is the red valve cover k20a out of the DC5 Integra Type-R. Many people don't realize that the motor is stamped K20A on both the JDM DC5 base(integra/integra iS, Integra Type-S) model motor and on the JDM DC5 Type-R motor. The only difference from the outside is the valve cover.
So, no, it doesn't say k20a3 on the block, but it's internally EXACTLY the same. It's like, "Cool stamping, bro, but it's [essentially] still a base RSX motor."
@@copperkeyracing6167Integrea dc5 type r is not the same as a RSX base bro
@@Sauczi Read it again. I never said that a base RSX motor is the same as a DC5 Type-R motor. All K20a[_] motors in Japan are stamped K20A. So a k20a3 here in the USA [out of a base RSX or EP3] has an equivalent in Japan, and it is stamped a K20A in Japan. A K20A2 does not exist in Japan, so there is no exact equivalent, but the K20A DC5/EP3 Type-R motor is the nearest equivalent.
To summarize
USDM=>JDM equivalent
K20A3=>K20A with equivalent eternals out of DC5, DC5 iS, DC5 Type-S, but not DC5-R
K20A2=>K20A out of DC5/EP3 Type-R, but with half point extra compression from different pistons & K20Z1/DC5-R/EP3-R cams
REAL PRICE? About $5-6k.. Like 90% of people dont do their own labor.. And boosting a Honda is alot more involved than it seems.. And u also gotta consider fuel. If you dont do the installation, u are looking at like $1000 minimum for labor, running fuel lines, piping, tapping oil return, gauges... Then you got tuning. And its probably $5k minimum using cheaper parts.. U want to a run a good Turbo kit with a good garrett or Precision with all Vband, and a good fuel system like a full Radium setup with great injecters, with all proper heat coating and protections, you looking like $10k..
No one asked you.
@@illiwashere bro what is your problem? I own a motorsports shop and have been modifying and tuning dc5's for about 15 years now. I was simply giving my advice and my experience of cost, because many people look for videos like this, but they arent really realistic. For reasons I explained above.
@@JonHop1 He one of those Spanish dudes prob with an ebay ricer Honda and got offended that you gave a realistic take and scenario on how much modding these cars actually costs. Like you said, most people dont do their own work and labor, so its important people have ballpark numbers of what it takes to have a turbo kit installed and work properly and reliably.
@@illiwashere never seen a dude get triggered over someone simply explaining the cost of a turbo installation before. You gotta be like 16 years old.
@@JonHop1 Again… No one asked
K20a less then 2k? Wow rsx typer engine, i paid around 6k for a k20a from a FD2 4 door civic, u guys had a great deal getting that engine
whyd you guys have to open the plastic park on the steering wheel? for the pushstart?
looking good
Man got willowood but rep wheels that’s wild
Rip drone struck down in cold blood 🕊
She’s being repaired! Drone clips are the best clips🛸
Fuck i need to boost mine
@@rudyramirez2850 highly recommend😁
What things would I need to relocate If I wanna boost a base rsx
The biggest things are the battery and air box. Some kits don’t require you to relocate the battery but for our set up, we did relocate the battery. Everything else is dependent on your turbo kit.
wait so did u tune on the stock ecu ??
Damn yall been busy. Looking good 👍
Nah cuz why was the drone so low😭
Cant say i didn’t warn you dude😭
I have a cold air intake on mine but wanna put a small turbo but the car is already at 280km anyone got any tips or anything
best bet would be to engine swap for lower mileage if you have forced induction plans. Either a K20A2 or a K24 imo for better torque
I need the build list NOWWWW
FULL BUILD LIST
Suspension
- ktuned tie rods
- god speed maxx coilovers
- ktuned roll center adjuster
- hotchkins adjustable sway-bar endlink
- wilwood big brake kit
- AVID1 AV6 17x8 17x9 (Staggered)
- 215/40/17 nitto neo gen
Body
- new oem front bumper
- a-spec body kit
- lip
- wing
- side skirts
- diffuser
- spec d headlights
- spyder led tail lights
Interior
- glow shift A pillar gauge pod
- afr
- boost
- oil pressure
- Wood floor trunk
- nrg quick release
- push start button
Drive train
- base rsx 5 speed
- action stage 3 clutch
- act throwout bearing
- Yonaka Stage 2 RSX 5 speed axels
- ktuned slave cylinder
- em2 civic si master
Management
- kpro v4
- stock wiring harness
- Flex fuel kit
Bolt-ons
- Buddy club spec 2 cat-back exhaust
- Skunk2 pro K series intake manifold
- Skunk2 74mm throttle body
- PLM hardened motor mounts
- PLM upper water neck
- Catch can
Fuel
- DW 400c pump
- Southbay 1000cc injectors
- DW fuel return kit
- DW Pressure Regulator
- Hybrid Racing Fuel rail
Turbo Kit
- Tsp performance Custom turbo kit
- down pipe
- dump pipe
- intercooler piping
- Ebay gt35 gen I turbo
- Plm sidewinder manifold
- rev 9 intercooler
- vs racing bov
- vs racing 6lb wastegate
- mac 3 boost controller
@@Blackrosemotors K20A from a Type R?
@@JonHop1 silver top JDM K20a, so it's not from a Type-R, its from a base, or a JDM Type-S, which has a base motor.
@@copperkeyracing6167 ahh okay.. I spent a small fortune on my build. Got the Type R head and TSX bottom end(built motor). Garrett g30-990 and AWD kit from S1.. Took over a month but had the turbo housing and Sheepey manifold head shielded by Thermo Met in the Uk.. Saw Jamie from OG do it on his Type R and had to try it out. Bay temps our insanely low. Suspension is Bilstein ep3 b16's on the Porsche/BMW damptronic system. Whole chassis was professionally sound deadened as well so its super quiet and comfortable in-cabin. Made 591 on 93 and and 730whp on e85.
Nevermind they should of said Kswap since the beginning I thought they meant a boosted k20a3 which is possible to keep a A3 stable with boost without blowing it up, I got clickbaited😂
W vid🔥
get rid of those godspeeds, they snap on rsxs.
Nooooo the drone
Forza content when⁉️