First injector shown was an EV-6 (narrow body) with a USCAR type connector (rounded corner connector shape with side clip guide). They can also come with Jetronic connector (sharp edge rectangle). EV-1 injectors are "fat body" types with Jetronic connectors.
Thanks! Weve done a few of these injector upgrades on 4.0Ls and its confusing (or maybe I confused them) however here's a link to where we bought our injectors. They offer all the adapters and pigtails to get you the right end for your specific year. Thanks for watching! www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p8/Remanufactured%3A_4_Port_Upgraded_Fuel_Injectors_XJ%2FMJ.html#/
@@ManleyMachines Your video does justice to the work needed to perform injector swapping. Did mine years ago myself and recently on my '93 XJ. I go to www.injectorplanet.com/ for specs because it's really bothersome when sellers use the wrong terminology. Nick over at nickintimefilms went through the same thing and made a video describing such injector specifications for his RENIX system.
There was a recall on my 2000 TJ 4.0 for that heat shield that lays over the throttle body. 22 years later it still works like its supposed to. How long do recalls last? Can someone take an older car in like that and still have the recall fix or is there an expiration date for that sort of stuff. (Genuinely have no idea)
You can still have it repaired. I have a 2002 TJ 4.0 that also had the heat shield recall and I had it taken care of about 6 months ago. A good way to check is to install the Jeep phone app off iOS and Android’s app store (free) and create an account while adding your Jeep’s vin and look at active recalls. If it’s there a dealer will still fix it free of charge.
I believe you missed the step to reset your computer so that the system recalibrates. Have to disconnect both battery terminals and press them together for 30 secs or so to completely discharge system. Then reconnect terminals and turn ignition to start but not ignition, then pull nob to turn on lights, push back in and turn vehicle off.
Great advice. Shortly after this video we did a "big 3" upgrade, which involved new grounds and power cables. The battery was disconnected for a whole day and no issues arose, but it ran exactly the same as with the other injectors with no reset.
@@ManleyMachines It can take between 10 and 20 cycles (driving) to get the computer to the right tune. Ive seen info that turning the headlight switch off and on several times after reconnecting the battery has an impact but no proof of such. I do it anyways.. My injectors are from a V6 Mustang of the similar era.. 4 hole Get rid of the crush point behind the manifold. I did a Pacesetter header on mine to do that and then a 2.5" pipe and Flowmaster muffler.. My 50-90 speeds are much better and I can take any other Cherokee in the neighborhood up the hill. Ive run 15-40 Delo oil in mine since I purchased it at 136k miles.. 302500 as of today and still not a drop of oil lost between oil changes.. (Oil sender bad twice in time owned and that will leak. Replace it if any oil on that side of block.) Oil filter adapter o rings replaced as well at 140k. Ive seen 75k miles of logging roads in the time Ive had it. (I work at the red lights up on the hill..)
@@chpalmer2007 awesome advice! I run the Rotella 15-40 as well, and never trust that factory oil pressure gage (though the mechanical isn't much better... Lol). Likely we are going with the pacesetter when I do a timing set on it next week. Stay tuned!
@@ManleyMachines i run rotella as well and i went with the banks headers. Lifetime warranty but ive had them for 3 years and zero issues and fit is perfect on them. Besides going with the 24 lb 4 hole injectors i went to a bigger throttle body. 63mm if memory serves me right. A true HEI ignition, Spector intake system and a super 40 flow master muffler. This is all on my 97 TJ and except for the intake ive had it all on for over 4 years and it runs like a dream at 200k miles. I hope this all helps.
I've literally never a issue like that either. I have had a leaky exhaust manifold and a BAD misfire, drove it on the highway to go hunting basically 1000miles (live in Alaska). And still got like 21mpg.
Honestly that's just what comes with the kit we bought. They felt that the Ford injectors were better, or maybe they were cheaper. It's been 3 years since we put them in and they've been running great.
Next get the ignition off that rail and get the kit for the spark control of a dodge pickup. Cant remember the name of the company i got the whole kit from. Made my LJ purr
Honestly...you probably won't realize any extra atomization past the 4 hole, but it couldn't hurt. We had a smoother idle and better off idle throttle response, but no real gain in MPG that was seen.. Of course, 33's and a teenage foot will do that...
@@ManleyMachines I have a 4.7 Dakota with over 230k miles, still runs like brand new. But on hot days I have to prime the system 2x, even then it doesn't start until the second attempt sometimes. New fuel pump so ik that's not the problem. Also I've noticed the 4.7 likes to run hot, so I flushed the coolant system, removed the weak clutch fan, installed 2 huge 16inch electric fans, an upgraded radiator and a new water pump, runs cool AF now. Maybe that will help with head gasket issues idk.
The ones I link two in the description are the correct for the 1999 to 2000 models , we have done a few and mostly EV1 since the newer 4.0 is unreliable due to 0331 head castings
Lol... it was a fuse. We were tracing a turn signal issue a few weeks back, pulled out 3 blown fuses. After replacing them the airbag, turn signal and an unknown accessory were back to functioning.
@@ManleyMachines the airbag light in my jeep is still on, the previous owner cover up the accident when the airbag was deployed, I just checked the car fax, so I think that I need to change the airbag module, I cant erase the airbag code, and the 98 doesnt have the key for turn off the passanger airbag
@@ManleyMachines if you already have the 4 hole it’s not worth buying.I have Both,the only difference I could tell is the 12 hole have a rock steady idle in my wj
The injector came from KSuspensionFab , they are reman 4 hole 19lb/hr www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p8/Remanufactured%3A_4_Port_Upgraded_Fuel_Injectors_XJ%2FMJ.html#/
Berryman B12 Chemtool. Available at most Autozone or Walmarts stores. But you can use whichever carb cleaner you can grab, just be sure to lube the injector seal with Vasoline before trying to reinstall them.
@@ManleyMachineshe is saying that another common problem is the check valve in the fuel pump module can cause the fuel pressure to bleed down and cause hard starts.
@@bobbysenterprises3220 good point. The heat soak in a 4.0 fuel rail is a commonly known issue however. More importantly it has no trouble during a cold start which is when the rail would be completely empty. It only has trouble starting when it has run and reached full temperature, then sits for a short amount of time turned off. Fuel in the rail boils and causes a vapor barrier.
Petroleum products are never a good choice for lubing o rings. Silicone or Teflon lubes don't distort rubber. I would use butter and crisco before I used vasaline. Put an o ring in it and come back in a few days and see what you have.
@@ManleyMachines yeah man, scratch the vasoline or home products. I just use grease or engine oil. When choosing a grease, google "lubricant compatibility chart" to find what plastics are safe with what lube. its a good habit.
That DEI kit instantly fixed my misfire at piston #3 and check engine light from going on constantly (due to vapor lock in my fuel rail). Thanks👍.
First injector shown was an EV-6 (narrow body) with a USCAR type connector (rounded corner connector shape with side clip guide). They can also come with Jetronic connector (sharp edge rectangle). EV-1 injectors are "fat body" types with Jetronic connectors.
Thanks! Weve done a few of these injector upgrades on 4.0Ls and its confusing (or maybe I confused them) however here's a link to where we bought our injectors. They offer all the adapters and pigtails to get you the right end for your specific year. Thanks for watching! www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p8/Remanufactured%3A_4_Port_Upgraded_Fuel_Injectors_XJ%2FMJ.html#/
@@ManleyMachines Your video does justice to the work needed to perform injector swapping. Did mine years ago myself and recently on my '93 XJ. I go to www.injectorplanet.com/ for specs because it's really bothersome when sellers use the wrong terminology. Nick over at nickintimefilms went through the same thing and made a video describing such injector specifications for his RENIX system.
@@electronicsworkbench Nickintimefilms is great, and a local to where I am in NJ. More Jeep content on the way, we have a Comanche as well now.
Nice work. Y’all in ocala ?
There was a recall on my 2000 TJ 4.0 for that heat shield that lays over the throttle body. 22 years later it still works like its supposed to. How long do recalls last? Can someone take an older car in like that and still have the recall fix or is there an expiration date for that sort of stuff. (Genuinely have no idea)
You can still have it repaired. I have a 2002 TJ 4.0 that also had the heat shield recall and I had it taken care of about 6 months ago. A good way to check is to install the Jeep phone app off iOS and Android’s app store (free) and create an account while adding your Jeep’s vin and look at active recalls. If it’s there a dealer will still fix it free of charge.
If its a issue from their end they have to repair it. My legacy gt limited has a airbag recall and its an 05
I have that heat shield kit as well. Solved my problems.
We still have a few issues, but it is MUCH better. The kit wasn't expensive either.
I believe you missed the step to reset your computer so that the system recalibrates. Have to disconnect both battery terminals and press them together for 30 secs or so to completely discharge system. Then reconnect terminals and turn ignition to start but not ignition, then pull nob to turn on lights, push back in and turn vehicle off.
Great advice. Shortly after this video we did a "big 3" upgrade, which involved new grounds and power cables. The battery was disconnected for a whole day and no issues arose, but it ran exactly the same as with the other injectors with no reset.
@@ManleyMachines It can take between 10 and 20 cycles (driving) to get the computer to the right tune. Ive seen info that turning the headlight switch off and on several times after reconnecting the battery has an impact but no proof of such. I do it anyways..
My injectors are from a V6 Mustang of the similar era.. 4 hole
Get rid of the crush point behind the manifold. I did a Pacesetter header on mine to do that and then a 2.5" pipe and Flowmaster muffler.. My 50-90 speeds are much better and I can take any other Cherokee in the neighborhood up the hill.
Ive run 15-40 Delo oil in mine since I purchased it at 136k miles.. 302500 as of today and still not a drop of oil lost between oil changes.. (Oil sender bad twice in time owned and that will leak. Replace it if any oil on that side of block.) Oil filter adapter o rings replaced as well at 140k.
Ive seen 75k miles of logging roads in the time Ive had it. (I work at the red lights up on the hill..)
@@chpalmer2007 awesome advice! I run the Rotella 15-40 as well, and never trust that factory oil pressure gage (though the mechanical isn't much better... Lol). Likely we are going with the pacesetter when I do a timing set on it next week. Stay tuned!
@@ManleyMachines i run rotella as well and i went with the banks headers. Lifetime warranty but ive had them for 3 years and zero issues and fit is perfect on them. Besides going with the 24 lb 4 hole injectors i went to a bigger throttle body. 63mm if memory serves me right. A true HEI ignition, Spector intake system and a super 40 flow master muffler. This is all on my 97 TJ and except for the intake ive had it all on for over 4 years and it runs like a dream at 200k miles. I hope this all helps.
Had several jeeps never had a heat shield or a vaporlocking problem. Lucky guy right?
I've had several, Wranglers and Cherokees. Only one didn't have some sort of heat soak or vapor lock issue.
I've literally never a issue like that either. I have had a leaky exhaust manifold and a BAD misfire, drove it on the highway to go hunting basically 1000miles (live in Alaska). And still got like 21mpg.
@@simonsays582 21 mpg with a 4.0?
What kind of fairy dust did you sprinkle on that thing?
@@2S1L3NT Manual transmission. My 88 xj got 24-25 on the highway, and yes, it was a 4.0.
@@2S1L3NT i got 25 Highway in my 98 4.0 today pretty much going 80mph the whole time
But usually city i get 12-15 and its a auto
How did you guys end up liking those four port injectors? Thinking about doing it on my 95 XJ
So far they have been great. Noticeably smoother idle, and a snappier throttle response.
Worth the upgrade! I did it on my ‘95 XJ as well. Go with the 12 hole injectors, if you can.
@@w00tplayaw00t Installed the 12 hole injectors this morning, and damn is so much smoother!
Could you message me the parts list you replaced/installed on here.
Why the Ford injectors over neon injectors?
Honestly that's just what comes with the kit we bought. They felt that the Ford injectors were better, or maybe they were cheaper. It's been 3 years since we put them in and they've been running great.
Next get the ignition off that rail and get the kit for the spark control of a dodge pickup. Cant remember the name of the company i got the whole kit from. Made my LJ purr
If you remember the name of the company please let me know
@@ManleyMachines Found it: www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p149/TJ%2FLJ_Viper_Coil_Mod.html#/
@@ManleyMachines Sorry was a viper coil not a dodge truck
@@ManleyMachines RIPPS Supercharger Dodge Viper coil pack
Vent your hood if you get a chance. It really helped my TJ run cooler.
I've been considering installing 12 hole injectors, any thoughts?
Honestly...you probably won't realize any extra atomization past the 4 hole, but it couldn't hurt. We had a smoother idle and better off idle throttle response, but no real gain in MPG that was seen.. Of course, 33's and a teenage foot will do that...
I wish they made these heat wrap kits for the 4.7.
Does the 4.7 suffer from the same vapor lock? I have a 4.7 in my commander, and I'm dealing with head gasket issues.
@@ManleyMachines I have a 4.7 Dakota with over 230k miles, still runs like brand new. But on hot days I have to prime the system 2x, even then it doesn't start until the second attempt sometimes. New fuel pump so ik that's not the problem. Also I've noticed the 4.7 likes to run hot, so I flushed the coolant system, removed the weak clutch fan, installed 2 huge 16inch electric fans, an upgraded radiator and a new water pump, runs cool AF now. Maybe that will help with head gasket issues idk.
Nice video guys. What part of Jersey?
Right in the middle, Somerset county
@@ManleyMachines, got it…I’m from Sussex county. Stillwater/Fredon area.
Which heat shield kit did you use and where did you find it?
DEI kit - here's an Amazon link, thanks for watching!!
www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_G8XHGAM4PH5DARY5FCVH
ev6 injectors go in update models you said ev1?
The ones I link two in the description are the correct for the 1999 to 2000 models , we have done a few and mostly EV1 since the newer 4.0 is unreliable due to 0331 head castings
Did you yet fixed the airbag Light?
Lol... it was a fuse. We were tracing a turn signal issue a few weeks back, pulled out 3 blown fuses. After replacing them the airbag, turn signal and an unknown accessory were back to functioning.
@@ManleyMachines Neat! Was the fuser behind the glove box? or the fuser under the hood?
@@anhoantoniotaylor2288 that's the problem, it was behind the globe box. I never thought to look there... you learn something new everyday
@@ManleyMachines the airbag light in my jeep is still on, the previous owner cover up the accident when the airbag was deployed, I just checked the car fax, so I think that I need to change the airbag module, I cant erase the airbag code, and the 98 doesnt have the key for turn off the passanger airbag
This f light is driving me crazy, so annoying
Check Valve, fuel pump.
well clean out the garge put a/c in it and pull your jeep in
At this point, we are looking to add a heater! #gettingcooler
You can also buy 12 hole injectors.
Yes, Ive seen reviews on the 12 holes and I'm not sure there's any benefit, or diminishing returns.
@@ManleyMachines if you already have the 4 hole it’s not worth buying.I have Both,the only difference I could tell is the 12 hole have a rock steady idle in my wj
What injectors did you guys use
The injector came from KSuspensionFab , they are reman 4 hole 19lb/hr www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p8/Remanufactured%3A_4_Port_Upgraded_Fuel_Injectors_XJ%2FMJ.html#/
What did you spray into the injecter bore holes?
Berryman B12 Chemtool. Available at most Autozone or Walmarts stores. But you can use whichever carb cleaner you can grab, just be sure to lube the injector seal with Vasoline before trying to reinstall them.
Good video funny narrator
Im putting a vent on my hood.
We may need to do that as well. It still has some vapor lock on the hottest days.
@@ManleyMachines chech your hood when its hot with a thermal gun to see where the heat buildup is the worst then add your vents.
It’s a fuel pump if no fuel in rail it bled back into the tank !
Not quite sure what you're saying.. but thanks for the comment!
@@ManleyMachineshe is saying that another common problem is the check valve in the fuel pump module can cause the fuel pressure to bleed down and cause hard starts.
@@bobbysenterprises3220 good point. The heat soak in a 4.0 fuel rail is a commonly known issue however. More importantly it has no trouble during a cold start which is when the rail would be completely empty. It only has trouble starting when it has run and reached full temperature, then sits for a short amount of time turned off. Fuel in the rail boils and causes a vapor barrier.
Count the o rings…
Doesn’t count them and can’t figure out if he’s got them all…
yup, the joys of parenting & teaching, both with ADHD.
Petroleum products are never a good choice for lubing o rings. Silicone or Teflon lubes don't distort rubber. I would use butter and crisco before I used vasaline. Put an o ring in it and come back in a few days and see what you have.
Thanks for the tips!
@@ManleyMachines yeah man, scratch the vasoline or home products. I just use grease or engine oil. When choosing a grease, google "lubricant compatibility chart" to find what plastics are safe with what lube. its a good habit.