Dust Collection CFM Test
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- We did a dust collection cfm test on our dust collection system before and after we rearranged our shop.
I heard that you shouldn't have longer than a 40 foot run of dust collection pipe. I wanted to find out the difference. Turns out the length of run didn't make much difference, but having bends and hose instead of pipe are air flow killers.
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Great video man!! Love the chatter between you guys.
Stone and Sons Workshop It's like that every hour he's awake.. Thanks Shawn!!
Hi Jake, I just came across your video. Very educating, thank you. I have the same dust collector. Have you ever thought of venting your dust colector outside, doing away with filter bag and filter all together? I myself am considering installing it outside in a dedicated enclose first to avoid hearing it roaring in my ears and also to vent it outside. Granted, one has to have the right neighborhood to do it.
Guy I have thought about venting outside, and I would if it weren’t for the noise.. when my shop is closed you can’t hear it from the yard.. it’s nice to be able to be in the shop and not worry about the noise!! 👍👍
thanks for the work. IT would have been nice to know the before and after distance for each machine. OF course you moved some closer so higher CFM... did the CNC or downdraft table stay at the same distance? It would have been nice to test with and without that 5" initial 5' run. I'm also wondering if a vacuum measurement at each location would be jsut as, or more meaningful as a measure of imroved performance
This is a pretty old video at the beginning of my video making journey.. I would have done lots of things differently and tested this different… it would be nice if I could go back in time 😂😂
@@JakeThompson its a complicated subject. From your video I learned the bit about the 5' of smooth straight run into the blower fan blade... sounds logical.
Good video Jake , Learned a lot ..Stay well my friend
Protect your DIGITS Creations Thank you sir.. We learned a lot as well!!
Cool man. Good dust colector is important for your shop. I have older 3phase dust colector with 3kw motor and 3,500 m3/h or around 2000 cfm. Nice video as always. I'm finishing my editing so I can finally upload:-) Regards
Slovenian Woodworker Can't wait to see your video!!!
dont see your dust video?
Throw the dust collector away man, just open a window or something, much easier LOL .....AWESOME VIDEO!!
Good video and test data to show the difference. Would like to ask about your Table saw. How do you like it/ rate it with that slide table on it. Thanks.
First Last Love the Table saw... hate the sliding attachment..
Get rid of the metal elbow coming out of the motor going into the filter and dust bag. And just bolt the filter and dust bag assembly straight to the motor housing. One less bend restricting air flow
Brendan Refalo Great idea!! 👍👍
Awesome videos, guys. Just subbed your channel. Very informative about the net (mostly positive gains) on the CFM at the various tools. I was surprised that you still had plenty of air flow at the farther ends of the run. I would not have guessed you could have that much 4" pipe and good air flow.
With regards to your band saws: Would a 3" hose from the blast gate to the tool help you (higher velocity of air) to better scavenge the dust? I know that with router tables, they usually have 2.5" ports to move the heavier chips produced. Band Saws don't seem to produce a bunch of real fine dust, and the FASTER air might help move it better. Just a thought.
Thanks for including the link for the Air flow tool. I can't pronounce anemometer correctly, either. Maybe that word should be used as a part of the roadside sobriety testing !
Andrew Bieger Thanks for watching, and the Sub!! I was surprised also about the airflow at 70 foot of pipe, but I had to find out.. lol as far as the band saws, I really think that a shop vac going directly to the blade right under the table would probably be best. Changing to smaller hose will be something I try in the future. The Dust collection as it is, keeps the inside of the machines spotless anyway. The outside of the machines need help. Once again, thank you for watching and subbing!! It’s very much appreciated, Andrew.👍👊
With clothes dryer vents, there are limits on how long the pipe can be. I was told by an HVAC dude that one elbow is the equivalent of 5ft of straight duct pipe. It's all air flow, so I wonder if that same rule (about elbows) applies to vacuum duct.
Framerite Airdrie I’m not sure, but the things I did worked pretty well, with plenty of improvement left to do. Larger pipe, bigger bust collector, etc. more improvements in the future. Thanks for watching!!👍👊
I wonder how much cfm is lost with the dust seperator.. is it really needed? Would you be able to just get rid of that and just use the plastic bag below the filter?
The dust separator is needed to keep your filter clean. I’m not sure how much is lost but I have great dust collection at all the tools like the video shows.
great video . Get rid of the dust deputy and its convoluted cross air flow and create your own and add at least 200 cfm to each tool . (2hp grizzly is rated at 1550 cfm and you can be sure that cyclone toy is stealing 200-300 cfm !! FIVE times worse than an extremely sharp right angle .
Good to know.. Thanks for stopping by, glad you enjoyed the video.👍👍
Do you have plans or any recommendations on a cyclone?
Informative as always. Keep on making videos, and I'll keep on watching.
NTexRob Thanks Rob, there is no end in sight. Thanks for following along!!
nice northside
Steve Smith Thank you for watching Steve, glad you enjoyed the video.
I like your shop movies ✌🏻😎🇧🇷
Alessandro ramalho dos santos Thank you very much. I'm happy you like our videos!!😄
I have a question. What is the height from the floor to the top of your grizzly filter with this set up? Curious to see if I can run it like this with the dust deputy. Thanks. Love you videos!!
I’m glad you enjoy the videos.. I will go measure it tomorrow morning and let you know.. the building has 12 foot walls if that helps.
I mounted my Super Dust Deputy XL directly to the fan intake , save space ,no flex hose needed.
Aside from that,I have the same set up, and it works great.
Jake. Enjoy your videos a lot. I'm looking at setting up the same system that you have there. I do have a question though. According to Grizzly's Web site and Catalog the Grizzly G0548ZP is rated at 1700 CFM. Your readings don't come close to that. Do you believe the degradation is due to connecting it to the Super Dust Deputy.
Bill Meyers I Happy you like my videos. There will be a loss due to the Super Dust Deputy., how much, I’m not sure. The meter I used is consistent with the readings every time, but I don’t think it was exactly accurate. Just by the way that it would go out of limits at 575 or so. When I contacted the meter company and said it was going out of limits, they told me that I probably had way more air flow than I thought.. I don’t believe it, but it was consistent none the less.. so I just wanted to show the positive or negative gain by making certain adjustments to the system. The 1700 cfm is probably perfect conditions, kind of like fuel mileage estimates on vehicles.. Adding a cyclone, every length of pipe, every turn, every foot of hose vs. pipe, will hurt the cfm. With this being said. I’m very happy with the system for the money I spent. When you take a step up in hp. There’s a significant step up in price. I hope this helps you Bill.
Appreciate the quick response. I think I will try this system. Thanks
on some videos it looks like the dust deputy 4/5 on a HFDC drops is 300 cfm right away. But i does seem to separate very efficiently
Good video. I'm curious, I have the same DC as you, how long have you had the DC set up with the motor vertically with a cyclone?
I'd considered pretty much the same thing but was advised by Grizzly against using a cyclone as well as orienting the motor vertically because it wasn't designed for the force but I'd much prefer this set up.
Must be nice to have helping hand too.
Kbo The helping hand is pretty good to have.. lol I have had it in this orientation for almost 2 years with no problems. I like it a lot.. lots of people do the same thing with their harbor freight D.C.'s with no problems.. I like mine so much better like this.. Thank you for watching!!
as an engineer this was my first thought to... people putting heavier turbofans on the HFDC and these motors probably dont have thrust bearings in them. I'm going to do a 90 from the cyclone to the inlet and keep the shaft horizontal.
that big sweeping 90 on that grizzly looks very low friction loss.
Great video, Jake! Are you using 4" pipe for the main run with a section of 5" going into the SDD? Is that just a "standard" HVAC piece of pipe? If so, are you not worried about it crushing?
Steven Baker it’s 30 ga pipe.. it hasnt crushed yet.. it doesn’t even buckle the least bit.. but if it did.. I would just get a legit thick metal pipe.
@@JakeThompson Thanks Jake, I may give it a try too then. Are you using 4" for the main run and then 5" into the Dust Deputy? I'm trying to figure out if I should use 4" or 6" mains.
Steven Baker it is 5 inch to 4 inch.. you should use the largest pipe you can get.. 4 inch was the biggest I could go and run them through the braces for the walls of the shop
I’ve been wanting to measure my CFM around my shop, do you really think the Anemometer is the tool to use? I ask, because I’ve had two people so far say it’s not for measuring in that fashion. I don’t who to go with yet. Anything you’ve heard about this method on your end? Thx
Hey, yes the anemometer is the correct instrument for the job, it is a device made purposely to measure the speed of the wind, or of any current of gas
Tundra Whisperer My anemometer is a cheaper one.. but that is what it’s for.. and you can calibrate it for different diameter pipe. In my situation I just wanted to see a difference after moving things around. .. I’m not sure how else you would measure it.. but an anemometer is the tool to use.
It's the correct tool if you're wanting to measure the capture velocity at the dust generation point. If you hold the anemometer at the saw blade and measure 100-200 ft/min air speed, you have adequate velocity to extract the dust. It's not the correct tool for measuring CFM in the duct though. For that, you want a pitot tube to measure the velocity pressure in the duct itself by sticking the pitot tube through the duct wall and pointing it upsteam. This will measure the velocity pressure, which translates to air velocity. For dust collection, this should be 3500-4500 ft/min in the duct. By knowing the air speed and the duct diameter, you multiply them to get the actual CFM in that leg.
Source: I design industrial dust collection system for a living.
Hey man... I like those tables!
Where would I go to get the legs for those!
I like them too... Heres a link to them www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006XD1ZKM/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=jakethom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B006XD1ZKM&linkId=58bdcb289a25e27482235b255ae4c2fd
Hi, Jeff. Without coming off a a total jerk, I'd like to share with you the information provided by Bill Pentz, who is broadly considered the guru of dust collection. On the question of how much CFM is required to provide for a safe shop environment, he says " we need about 1000 CFM at most larger hobbyist tools and dustier operations. Most small shop tools get OSHA air quality with 800 CFM, ACGIH air quality with 900 CFM and EPA air quality with 1000 CFM. " Your readings tell me you're falling far short of this.
Again, I'm happy to see that you're concerned about improving your dust collection arrangement, but if appears that you're still a long way off in providing a safe working environment.
Marty Schlosser You are exactly correct and don’t sound like a jerk at all. I’m constantly improving upon things. The video was just to show the improvements I made just with straighter lines and pipe vs. hose. A bigger hp dust collector with bigger pipe is in the works. We can’t have everything we want overnight, and I have fun tweaking the system.. thanks for watching the video. I hope you were at least entertained by watching it, and I do appreciate your concern. 👍👍
@@JakeThompson Keep in mind, these CFM numbers are very "hand wavy". Required CFM is a calculated number based off the hood area and how far the dust generation point is from the hood face. In the dust collection industry, if equipment isn't pre-engineered for dust collection and we have to fabricate hoods, we always do the calculations manually. The CFM range could be anywhere from 400-1500 CFM usually. It's not a one size fits all.
WildcatEngineer15 and that’s why I said don’t pay attention to what the number is, but to see if the number goes up or down. Indicating if we helped or made it worse.
@@JakeThompson Absolutely, by doing that you are just testing to see if you helped/hurt the static pressure required to run that leg. My point was directed at the claim that 1000 CFM will give you EPA air quality which is a completely bogus claim. It's tool dependent. A CNC router may take 1000CFM, but a table saw for example would never take that much and you'd choke your system if you tried.
WildcatEngineer15 You are very knowledgeable on this subject.. you should do a video on it.