Shop Projects: New and IMPROVED Dust Collection System
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- In this video I briefly go over a new dust collection system I have built in my new garage shop. Over the years I have learned a lot and in this new system I have taken all my research and lessons learned to build a much more efficient system. Check out my website article for more a more in depth look at the materials and methods used, and some other topics not covered in the video.
Website Article: Coming Soon
+Dust Collection System Components+
Fittings, Accessories: www.kencraftcompany.com/produ... Email them for the best price, shipping quote
6” 26ga Round Pipe: www.zoro.com/greenseam-snap-l... Free shipping, best price
4” Blast Gates: amzn.to/2OdLHpH
4” Hose Clamps: amzn.to/2x65pfr
4” Clear Flex Hose: amzn.to/2x5VZk6
6” Clear Flex Hose: amzn.to/2Nu1u6D
6” Blast Gate: amzn.to/2p6EQn3
6” Hose Clamps: amzn.to/2N41ACm
Foil Tape: amzn.to/2x7BFij
+Tools shown in this video+
Grizzly Dust Collector: amzn.to/2oZxeSZ
Sawstop 1.75 Table Saw: amzn.to/2CJYnmz
Duct Crimper: amzn.to/2Nzmclj
Tin Snips: amzn.to/2oYIkHR
Hand Riveter: amzn.to/2QlsgfT
Electric Rivet Tool: amzn.to/2x9oHAy
Pneumatic Riveter: amzn.to/2N7i3pw
Milwaukee Fuel 18V Drills: amzn.to/2QpFY18
Long Ranger Dust Collector Remote: amzn.to/2oYAaPS (mine is 220V version) 
Хобби
This man speaks the truth so pay attention.
Changing my DC-1200 Jet from a single stage portable to a wall mounted two-stage. Thanks for confirming that my plans are correct. Using 6" duct from my DC to Cyclone to tools. Then reduce as needed. Thanks for the idea of using rivets.
What a great informative video. I am preparing to do a dust system in our church work shop (that I'm building) and have watched numerous videos. YOURS is the best I have seen. Thanks.
Excellent clearly explained tutorial. Worthwhile and instructive, thank you.
Excellent advice . I feel compelled to leave a reference to your video in most of the other videos that I have seen on this subject with the lead in " now that you've seen the wrong way , check out the right "
Nice job !!
Thank you Harry!
Thanks Brian, well done!
Very thorough and clearly explained. Thank you.
Best video when it comes to explaining how to and what to use and options if what type of piping is out there.
Great, informative video. Just as long and detailed as it needed to be.
Great job on the video. I'm glad to see somebody finally do a video on how to do it right instead of CHEAP! Your lungs will appreciate it as well. Very nicely done.
Thank you !
This is great, thank you! We have a lot of work to do but we're no longer searching in the dark.
Great job describing the piping and fittings! I'm struggling with sending all dust and pieces through the impeller needlessly. 2-stage has too many advantages to ignore. When I empty my Brute drums I am seeing plenty of fine dust in them! By keeping "air-out" unclogged, you will get much better and consistent basis suction and less need to perform air-out maintenance. Too many wins!
Really good video man. Thanks for all the info.
Clear, practical, useful information. Nice video.
Thanks Terry!
Hi Brian, Once again a great topic, exceptionally well explained. Its such a shame your not up in the thousands with your views and likes. I really enjoy your content and do really appreciate the time and trouble you go to to produce it for us mere mortals. Thank you. All the best form North London UK.
Thank you Trev, I appreciate your kind words! The challenge with youtube is it's too washed out now. When I started out on youtube there were only a handful of woodworkers sharing videos and now there are thousands constantly posting content. Anyhow, if I can help just a few I enjoy it. Thanks!
Great job, very informative!
Thanks for this, yours is the only reference I could find for the greenseam pipe. I have a 7" inlet and greenseam has 24 gauge available for the 7" (in addition to 26). I think I will get the 24 as you said that 26 is about as thin as should be used. Thanks!
Enjoy the video I'd like to see some more don't know what's going on in your life pray everything is going good you have a blessed day
Great video!
Nice work Brian!
Very good video Brian. Well explained and very clear to understand. I already have my dust collection setup but wish I would of seen this first....
Thanks Jason, always time to improve, I had mediocre system setups for years and I'm still learning and trying to make it better.
GREAT IDEAS
Great video, I learned a lot. I have a shop vac dust collector and want to build one like yours. I subscribed.
Hey, awesome video. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Phil!
Wow. Great video. Don’t know why you don’t have more traction. Keep up the videos.
Thank you!
cyclone with your 2hp is very good,you have beautiful filter your shop will be much clean. i think.
Hi Brian, thank you, thank you, thank you! Finally I have a clear idea in my head of what I've been doing wrong. I've been expecting way too much from my shop vac. And now I know why. For now I'll keep using it but at least I know why it's not working properly on my planer :-) Liked and subbed ! (despite the fact that your name has CNC in it )
Thank you I have the same dust collector, I was thinking of adding a xl dust deputy for my one person basement shop, also using 6" duct do you think by your exp with that its necessary to go to a 2 stage system keep in mind this is not a garage it's a basement and everything is pulled into my hvac system that uses a 36 dollar filter I dont want to have to change once a month its designed to be a years use because it's a merv 8 filter 4" thick and pleated.
Great video lots of good points. One thing I'll say is that you're doing PVC fittings a disservice by representing them as hard to find or having sharp bends. You can find 4 and 6" wyes at all the box stores and they come off at 45 degrees. Basically the exact same as what you have here. Yes, they also sell Tees, but that doesn't mean it's the only option. Just make sure you're looking at SDR35 or D2729 instead of sch 40, that's generally how you find the right stuff for dust collection.
Not to knock your video but I just didn't want anybody to watch your segment on PVC and come away thinking it's not as good when it is just as good, IF you do it right (which seems to be your overall point of the video)
Thanks for your feedback. I wasn't trying to do PVC a disservice, I was just trying to explain the pros and cons, now having used both. 6" fittings aren't easy to find everywhere and the sewer pipe schedule is very heavy in long runs. The 4" duct work is too small for proper dust collection. The 6" sewer pipe and fittings is almost if not more expensive than metal pipe in my area. As you said though 4" PVC is a great alternative and certainly a little bit cheaper than the materials I show, but again, pros/cons. I'm a fond believer in spending the money and doing things right, I started with 4" PVC like most people because I didn't know any better. But again I appreciate your feedback and contributing to the video, thanks for watching!
For anybody looking into it, check out D2729 pipe, it's compatible with all the same fittings (same OD) while being a lot smaller thickness which really brings the weight and cost down. It's sold by HD and Menards though you may need to get them to order some to the store, they don't seem to always stock it. They definitely stock 6" PVC fittings with the 45 degree Wye pretty universally. Menards carries that one for about $19
I hope I haven't come across negatively, just wanted to add a little bit more information to your very helpful and informative post.
Love the video, can you share what CFM you're getting at various points in your system? I'm thinking of purchasing that same collector
This is a great reference. Saving it!
Friendly feedback: I wouldn’t discount static as a non-issue. Minor static is enough to ignite gas fumes if you store any in the work area (like your garage), even if the area is well ventilated (like with the garage door open). This is why you are supposed to only fill canisters at the gas station on the ground.
You can ground pvc systems, but you have to run copper wire along the entire, inner length of the runs and ground the ends, which can be a hassle.
Grounding is also a good idea for tools that have sensitive electronics (like your cnc). For that you can also run anti-static flex hose between the tool and main dust plumbing.
Carlos, for sure and a valid point. I've learned through the years that all my apprehension to use metal instead of PVC was that it was "harder to work with". The cost is about the same and you can get all kinds of fittings in metal that you can't get easily in certain sizes of PVC. While you can run copper wire as you described (done it before on my old system) it does work to dissipate some of the static, it's still there and difficult to get rid of. And the benefit of the metal duct is it's just like BX cable, is a path to ground right at the source. It's good practice to even run a bonding ground wire from the bare end of the end of your duct at the dust collector to the dust collector's chassis ground. Having done it both ways though I would never do it any different. Both upsizing the ducts to move proper airflow and changing to metal ducts, sealing them well, it's a system I'm proud of.
Thanks for watching and your feedback!
BrianCNC Makes a lot of sense. When I set up my own distributed dust collection system Ill be going this route. Thanks again
Of all the dust collection setup videos I’ve watched, yours is one of the most informative, and the fact you provided links to material sources is HUGE! One question, maybe I’m dense: if the crimp is facing the wrong direction, can’t you just turn the pipes the other way and use an adapter or something if you have to at the start? Saying HVAC ducting is crimped the wrong way doesn’t make sense to me. I totally understand why you want the crimped ends facing the DC.
Craig Andresen Could be all the fittings are cramped wrong and not the pipe...?
No, I think I get it now. For the straight sections it’s not a big deal, but you need you wye fittings crimped correctly as you can’t just turn those around. You can try to straighten and recrimp I suppose. Same is true of the adapters.
so agree with your first statement :-)
Instead of rivets, you could use self drilling screws. Use a hex driver in your screw gun and the screws with hex heads. Quick and easy. You can buy them at the big box stores and most hardware stores. The only brand I know is Teks but I'm sure there are others.
Good tip, I've used both ways in the past just decided to follow what most people have done with this thin wall duct. You can get those screws anywhere typically in HVAC aisles too, self tapping screws.
Great video! Where did you get your ducting and fittngs? What gauge is it?
Great information and overview.
I’m wondering whether a a sound insulating closet/cabinet could be utilized to try to tamp down some of the garage noise.
It can be done, many woodworkers / youtubers have done it if you search. I personally haven't done it because of space limitations. I would love to have my compressor and DC in a different room but perhaps in the future. You can damp the sound from the dust collector you just need to make sure there is adequate ventilation and fresh air.
One thing about a separate room, you have to think about, you have to be able to let the air you send into that space back into the rest of the shop at or above the same speed and or volume or the room will pressurize and slow down your cfm. Think about this like it's a hvac system and summer to exchange the cool off the ac coils and remove heat you must move a lot of air over them. The same is true with this type of outside space. If you restrict the airflow it will lower your performance.
Thanks for the video. You look like you have a great system. I am just wondering why you did not go 2 stage with some kind of cyclonic system. Doesn't the filter get clogged? Isn't that the primary reason to go 2 stage?
Mark, thank you for watching! I will add a second stage separator to my jointer/planer branch later, but I haven't found any trash bin lids that port out from 6" duct, only 4". The filter gets clogged with MDF/fine dust over time but it has a cleaning / agitating arm that you can rotate to clean it out. I pull it off about once a year and clean it outside to get all the pleats cleaned well. Most of the time people do a 2 stage separator to get the large heavy chips out of the bag (which is the bulk for milling with a planer, shapers, jointers etc). With this bin you can dump it and only empty the dust collector occasionally of the fine dust particles.
Good video, thanks. Just wondering if you put your rivets in place from the inside, they would be a lot cleaner inside the ducting. One rivet probably doesn't matter much but at 4 per connection it adds up and could cause some turbulence and slightly less airflow. Maybe I'm getting over analytical....
Just wouldn't be practical to do that, and impossible with the large sections. I wouldn't worry about the rivets, if you really want to go high end you go with the clamp duct but it it's $$$$
Do you understand what the static pressure numbers mean for a dust collector? If so, could you please explain it to me? For instance, if a DC says it has 1800 CFM at 4.0 SP, and a max SP of 14, what does that mean? Does it mean that if your system has 4.0 inches of SP that the DC will produce the advertised 1800 cfm but If your system has less than 4.0 inches of SP the cfm will be higher and visa versa? And what about the max sp rating? So confusing to me. Thanks.
You mention that some people gravitate towards HVAC pipes, but they are too high gauge. What pipe would you recommend?
Hello, Those look like expensive blast gates but they appear not to be self cleaning? Have you had any problems with them? By the way although it is much heavier electrical conduit fittings give you the capability of 'sweep' nineties and forty fives both long and short sweeps. They will fit the PVC in my experience but not the ABS. Good video. Take care. Doug
Douglas, they aren't cheap but are much better than the plastic ones I and most people used previously. I so far have had no issues with them not being self cleaning, the slide plate flange never gets clogged up with chips.
Hi Brian what your setup for dust collection at your miter saw?
I will be building a shroud for it soon and post here. I just finished my miter saw station this week and will be posting the video for that project in a few days.
my shop I use two large fans in reverse to suck out fine particles from the air. I see so many people with cyclones running the air through the long filter that usually comes with the system. I never do that. The exhaust if you will I plumb to the outside of the shop to atmosphere. Them filters are so freaking expensive, so i eliminate that all together. I have seen your unit used without that metal downleg from the filter to the impeller motor, making a direct connect and dramatically increasing the suction. I have been looking at the same griz system that has the dual filters for another small shop. Any issues with this grizzly unit??
No issues with this unit it's outstanding. Problem with dumping shop air is without makeup air you're taking all of your conditioned air and throwing it outside. For cold climates with heated or ac shops this isn't practical.
You CAN ground a pvc run to eliminate static, fyi.
Also, youre dogging on pvc because of its 90° fittings.....?
Then just use a 45° pvc fitting. They make 22° fittings as well.
Most important thing for pvc for the budget anyway is to use THIN wall 'cpvc' for your runs if you can find it. "PVC" is generally your thicker, pressure or in-ground rated pipe. (Schedule 40 etc)
Yeah, your metal runs for suction are about the best you can use, but they're also the most expensive option.
You can't ground an insulator. You will at best reduce static charge buildup on the surfaces of the pvc but not eliminate it. I made a clear case for both, starting with PVC systems and transitioning to metal ducts. Many ways to do the same thing but metal duct is the way to go if you want to do it right. You don't need to buy the pricey nordfab stuff with clamp rings it can just be the duct I showed, but the cost delta for the materials I used and PVC isn't that much once you get down to the numbers.
Good job Brian
Thank you Jeff!
qq: since watching this video, I've been considering getting a similar dust collector (here in Ireland). but i'm wondering if there's any benefit to adding a cyclone to it. Brian, from watching this vid, you seem to think there's no need for one. if that's a case, I won't bother, but I just wanted to make sure :-)
Cyclone separators are good for keeping larger chips out of the impeller of the dust collector motor as well as saving your filter. The downside is, you sacrifice airflow. There are a handful of videos that demonstrate this.
Say you start with a 1000 cfm dust collector. Add a cyclone separator and you end up with 600-700 cfm for your tools. That may be adequate for what you need or you may need to start with a stronger motor, like 1500 cfm, so the degradation in airflow keeps you in the 1000-1200 cfm range.
In Brian's case, he has a number of tools that his system services. The DC he has is rated at 1700 cfm. I would guess that the effective airflow at any one tool is in the 1000-1300 cfm range. Adding a separator would have reduced that even more. The alternative is investing in the better filter to maximize airflow and prevent your dust collector from becoming a dust pump.
Question, why silicone duct joints or use foil tape instead of plain old duct tape?
Because duct tape is not meant for air ducts
Seems it would be beneficial to remove the one fitting after the Y going to the sander. Not sure why that one is even there?
The wye is to go to the sander, the vertical run continues down and under to my table saw, it is absolutely necessary.
BrianCNC I understand the Y there to branch off, I am referring to the adjustable elbow piece between the Y and the reducer to their 4”. Maybe I’m missing something?
@@akbychoice oh I see your point, yes absolutely could simplify and just reduce off the wye and connect a hose, each to their own.
Hi Brian, what is the gauge of your 6" ducting?
Kevin, 26ga but part links are in the description above
@@briancnc Thanks Brian. I live in Canada so those links won't help for purchasing, but will for specs. It appears that everything in the big box stores is 30ga so I guess I need to talk to a hvac company. Cheers!
@@kev1nme1er yeah do it, 30ga is too light for dust collection, I would say 26 is the limit. Just make sure you get fittings with the crimps in the right direction, even if it costs more.
I'm not understanding the "crimps in the right direction". Wouldn't you just orient the duct so the crimp is in the direction you want it?
@@kev1nme1er what did you end up using for your dust collection pipe and where did you get it. Cheers a fellow Canuck
In this video I briefly go over a new dust collection system?
15 min of Briefly.
But at least he was right on most points
www.pvcfittingsonline.com/6-sch-40-pvc-long-sweep-90-elbow-soc-406-060lsf.html
This is why you use Metal pipe you can buy Long Sweap elbows in 6" but they are not cheap,
if you go plastic route I'd find a good plumbing supply house to help you with this project and see if they can bring down the price on some of the fittings you won't find a long sweep in vent pipe i don't believe. Slowing down air movement has a drastic effect on air movement
look at the cutaway of a muffler and that drops sound a lot this is what you get with air movement you can say air movement and sound are related, in fact sound pressure is air movement.
Hey Brian. I have the exact Grizzly dust collector in my shop. I was told by all of the “experts” to use 5” galv. pipe. All 90’s are long radius with wye branches to each tool. My total run is a little bit longer than yours but here’s my problem. The collector will hardly move the dust. A lot of money invested. These fittings are not cheap. Thinking of replacing everything with 4”. Thoughts or suggestions.
Thank you for your time.
4" will be worse, how long is your longest run in feet from impeller to machine
@@briancnc 46’ with 5 long radius 90’s.
@@montygamble2843 Monty. You need a bigger dust collector, do you have a large shop with lots of equipment or just running from a far away location?
@@briancnc The shop is small. 24’x30’. 6 pcs. of equipment. Miter saw is the furthest away. It’s not a commercial shop. Retired fabricator / wood worker. Busyer th
@@briancnc busier than ever.
Wait, what about your CNC machine?
Took a break, it's in storage. Life gets in the way but hope to reassemble and use it again going forward.
how hp is this?
2HP
I'm not understanding the "crimps in the right direction". Wouldn't you just orient the duct so the crimp is in the direction you want it?
If you do then the wye fittings would be facing the wrong direction, interrupting air flow. Heating ducts are meant to blow air at the registers, not pull it back in, that's why the fittings need to be purchased such that the crimped ends all feed into the direction of your dust collector.
Ah, yes. Got it.
Upgrade that you can do for this dust collector
ruclips.net/video/XeaiobOFnYQ/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/rojzQyr0pcU/видео.html
I disagree.
A static charge can most definitely build up in PVC pipe, and running a bare copper wire down the inside of the pipe and connecting it to a ground, or driven ground rod can prevent static charge shock.
No doubt that it helps in reducing static charge buildup but you will never properly 'earth' a PVC system (as you can with a metal based system) to reduce all of the static as the primary material is an insulator. As I said it's not a safety concern but rather simply an inconvenience.
and how are your ears using that unit?
Not bad, it's a small shop full of loud machines so it's all relative. I use headphones regularly though to mitigate that.
There is absolutely no way that your dust collector draws 1700 cfm at 10” of static pressure..... none. Period. End of conversation......my 5 HP cyclone doesn’t draw that much
Ron, those are the factory specs. I have an anemometer and I will double check today and report back.
I bet those are the end points of the pump curve.
@@CyrusTabery That's what I believe is the case as well.
@@ronmeadows3153 Sounds like you understand what all those static pressure numbers mean.....I don't. Anyway you could explain it to me? For instance, if a DC says it has 1800 CFM at 4.0 SP, and a max SP of 14, what does that mean? Does it mean that if your system has 4.0 inches of SP that the DC will produce the advertised 1800 cfm but If your system has less than 4.0 inches of SP the cfm will be higher and visa versa? And what about the max sp rating? So confusing to me. Thanks.