Excellent; superb. You now have me scared, no, terrified, and concerned enough to get off my butt and go through these procedures on my ‘87 Carrera. Thanks for posting details on the equipment used. I would have been asking here.
@@GreasyFingers It’s rewarding enough to know that you’ve done what you could to delay the inevitable and given yourself more time to enjoy what is now a classic.
I thought about tape too, but noticed some holes seemed just wide enough to allow the hose in. I considered the tape might bind so I recommended color coating which would possibly be thinner than tape.
Very good video again! When protecting my Alfa this way, I did put a piece of colored tape around the tube a couple of centimeters from the nozzle. This to avoid the spray in your face every time the nozzle pop’s unexpectedly out of the hole.
OH MY GOD!!!!! I had my car in the restoration/changes shop about 4 years ago getting lots of things done for a year, and while they were mucking about they found a couple of places where there was rust, and they cut out the decay and welded in new metal at the spot. Then just last week when I had my Carrera at my new mechanic shop it was on the lift waiting for suspension parts to arrive. Dan the owner of the shop didn't mind me coming over and very very slowly looking at everything under my P- car. Most shops would not let you do this. I went on several different occasions to see the progress of the suspension and so other upgrades. How many P-car owners have ever had a chance to be under their car as long as they wanted? The second I was other there all 4 tires were off the car and I looked where the jack hole is and then toward toward where the driver's seat is and there it was... FKING rust eating my metal slowing like 50 metal-eating ants in one spot. One of the sports you brought up in this video. I am not one to be awed by HUge work projects/problems but the corrosion program you have is SO eloquently and succinctly said and showed; it's far beyond my comprehension... even if someone else would be doing the work ($$$$$$$). It's just TOO FKING much to comprehend. In 15 years I will be 92 yrs. old. My wife and I have no kids, my brother has no kids and never will, same with my wife's brother, and none of them care a hoot about cars. So do I pick the current number from the machine and wait for a time when my car MIGHT have a chance to see my mechanic and stop the corrosion ? I owe it to my car, but how long will they even let these older cars be on the road (you can see I am starting to rationalize the situation). Don't get me wrong, EVERYTHING you said and did in this video is SO right it is just "what will I do with that information?" Instead of getting a number -which is a metaphor not an actual thing at Dan's shop- I will put a sticky tag on my wall calendar for December 2022 and it will say, YES or NO - corrosion protection. Thanks again for showing and telling something that NO other P-car site has ever gone into in such depth, and with actual solutions to the problem. "A garage without a Porsche is just a dark hole" -Walter Rohrl - Porsche Development
I would suggest putting tape on the spray tube about 3 inches (7.5cm) from the end so you know when its about to come out of the panel. This way it won't spray all over your face and car as it comes out of the body panel.
More ASMR content :-) thanks. I am interested in your single post lift. I assume the preparation of the surface to which it is attached is extensive. I am looking at 2 post but that single post gives such good access.
I think you must have added 5 kilos of oil and grease 🙂. FLUID Film is available in spray cans here in the US and I have used it on my pick-up truck frame. I had not thought about applying this to my Carrera, but now thanks to you, I will be following in your footsteps. Thank you very much for the time you put into your videos and for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Thanks for commenting, Jack. If it does it in Michigan, it does it everywhere. In fact I pour in a lot and just let it drip out again into jars. (In order to have enough jars at hand, I need to eat a lot of Marmelade and Nutella.)
Great videos on this channel I find myself watching multiple times. I could not find however the links for the equipment you used. Need to do this on my 77 911 S, hopefully no hidden surprises!
Yeah, that’s right, unfortunately the links are broken. When the time has come to start your project, please send me a PM and we discuss the right products.
Thank you this video and explanation. We're restoring a 1972 Volkswagen Super Beetle and this gives me ideas. I might suggest color coating your tubing so that you can recognize the "end of line" to prevent over-spraying.
@@anangelshero0410 Hallo Robert. Verstehe. Ich habe den Tank von meinem 77er Elfer mal ersetzt, weil er mir innen zu rostig war. Damals habe ich mich gegen eine Reparatur mit Chemie entschieden, weil die K-Jetronic jede Menge kleine Ventile usw hat, die leicht verstopfen. Aber das ist ja bei Deinem Käfer kein Problem.
Rust is reality . A very real reality for older cars - and particularly Italian cars. I’d say your approach makes sense. Anything that prevents oxidation has to be good. And too may waxs clearly don’t have the penetrative ability. Of course , money no object , zinc galvanization or zinc spraying etc etc are probably perfect. But then again let’s be real .
@@GreasyFingers I’m totally happy for you to do that. It has a certain ring to it. And it is so relevant to old cars . And let’s be honest, for all their faults, old cars are us. Far from perfect , indeed absolutely imperfect, and yet for all of that, an honest representation of who we are. Striving to be better, but constantly constrained by our own realities
I clicked "Like" first and then watched the video. In my view there was no doubt it would be interesting, well filmed and have some amusing comments too. All true. Thank you for sharing. PS - maybe put a marker on the flexible tube at 50mm from the end so you know when you have the nozzle nearly out of the panel hole?
@Greasyfingers. Very nice and informative video! 8:36 you put fluid film in each of the 3 service holes along the floor pan. I have an 88 carrera myself and have put an endoscope camera in there and there seems to be some road dirt and very minor rust pitting. Nothing major but you can start to see tiny little rust Color spots. What could be the cause of this? And should I spray the fluid film even if there is dirt or don’t put any? I guess the only way to clean it out would be to drill a big enough hole to put a small vacuum? Thanks Appreciate any answer 😎
Even if there is very minor rust Color in there that’s seems to be just surface should fluid film be applied ? Is it bad to put cavity wax on top of rust, wouldn’t it trap moisture within or eliminate the moisture ? Thx
Hi Lucas. Yes, these little rust spots are normal and they are not much to worry about. Steel does corrode and when the thin zinc layer on the surface is eaten up, atmospheric oxygen is all it takes to start the process. I personally think that some thin oil-based product is best for cavities, because it penetrates the rust that’s already there, rather than covering it like wax would do. If you go for fluid film, take their product with the highest viscosity. Removing dirt from in there is obviously impossible and drilling a huge whole would be far over the top. Though it doesn’t sound very appetising, a mixture of oil and dust protects steel quite well. hth
@@GreasyFingers Thank you for the quick response . Greatly appreciated!!! One side seems to be just dust and the other side seems to be road dirt, small rocks/ pebbles and much more build up. I believe that side had a small kidney bowl repair. Even if there is not just dust but road dirt and small pebbles should I spray the oil film in there regardsless ? Again, very helpful videos and I truly appreciate that you took the time to answer. Cheers 😎
I know these videos are 3-4 years old but have you noticed any stone guard flaking/cracking that you applied/fixed yourself ? Has any of the stone guard you added bubbles at the top of the front fenders or kidney bowls? I’m just curious that’s all :)
This is an old but excellent thread. I have a couple of questions regarding a 1973 911S. Have you considered the effect of Fluid Film on the Heater Duct Silencers inside the inner rocker panel? Mine are made of a paper material, could they deteriorate? You mentioned extra access holes in the floor plan later SC model. I have 4, two on each side towards the front on either side. Can you identify where the others are on the SC? Thanks.
Thanks, Charles. Fluid Film is lanolin-based, I don’t think it will harm paper material, but to be sure, I’d try in the open. As much as I know, Porsche has permanently modified the position of these holes. Just try to find all of them and use the tube to find out into which cavities they bring you.
@@GreasyFingers Thanks, I'm more concerned with odor in the cabin when the heat is on. Have you noticed a change? The 4 outside holes in the floor pan of my 73 enter the inner rocker area. There's also oval slots inside the cabin that open to the same area. I have the inner rocker panels removed therefore have multiple ways to prime & protect. Thanks again for posting your process.
@@GreasyFingers Thats good to know. I've only tested the aerosol version & didn't find it too smelly. I may rely on epoxy under the heater tubes & apply Fluid Film just to the "Hot Spots" as you call them. This should also reduce the leakage I assume you can expect on hot days. Thanks again, Charles
Great episode as usual ! Very informative and leading to how to do things that scratches your head. I'm restoring a classic 911 and got many holes that are left open or with old rubber caps. Where did you buy the rubber cap box we can see at 11:17 ?
@@GreasyFingers Checked Amazon and the right terminology found it straight ! I was looking for caps or grommets and would'nt find anything suitable ! Thanks and greetings from Strasbourg !
@@GreasyFingers Will you do a video on your rustproofing techniques on a 993? Are the access points the same as in this video? I'd love to see a diagram of where to spray ( and also what water channels to clear and how) Thank you.
@@Laguna2013 Sorry, mate, can’t help you there. I don’t have a 993 to play around with. If, however, anyone reads this who lives in Munich area and owns a 993 in need of some cavity protection, feel perfectly free to reach out.
@@GreasyFingers ich hab einen 1994 993 C2 und bin nicht so weit weg von München. Den würde ich dir gerne ausleihen für ein Video! Natürlich kann ich dir auch bezahlen für deine Zeit, etc. Lieber Gruss, Christian
great video. Thanks. It might be just me but I can't see the description in the details for the spray applicator you recommend. I think I need to do this to my 115 Spider
Thanks! In fact the links to matoopa don’t work any longer. I have to remove them from the description but haven’t yet found time. The product you’re looking for is the Vaupel 3300.
15:30 you mention Vaupel gear and a collaboration with Matouba I think - but I Can not find the link in the description - please Can you also provide what product you use for inspection - it connects via Bluettoth
Hi Christian, yes Matoopa unfortunately didn’t make it through the years, here’s the Amazon Link: amzn.to/3U1w8W8 The endoscope is just a simple Amazon no name.
@@GreasyFingers not sure, typical spot at the corner of the windshield....the sunroof drain pipe is in there. Don't remember if it's accessible from the trunk, difficult . Tschüss 64 TI and 87 Carrera
Having not long ago fought the good battle (and won!) against rust on my 911SC - including around the rocker panels, I have yet to protect the internals as you've depicted in this video. Is there any logic perhaps in using a coating such as Fertan's rust converter first in these tight quarters. It leaves a protective Zinc coating. Then to follow up with a protective film, such as the one you've used? I appreciate your thoughts and great video!
Hi Daniel, thanks for commenting. Rust converters like Fertan create stable iron compounds from iron oxides. That’s all they do, you can’t create any Zinc coating with them. In case you don’t have any rust, they don’t do much, but unless you rinse them out with water they remain inside and though I don’t see any specific issue with that, I don’t very much like the thought. I recommend to only use Fertan if you really have proof for rust. You might want to check with an endoscope first.
@@GreasyFingers I will definitely give the endoscope a shot! With Fertan, I was only quoting their blurb: "It also leaves a protective zinc coating that prevents rust from coming back for up to 6 months." I've used Fertan on other things before getting around to properly applying a painted top coat, but the internals are another story. Thanks for your input.
@@dra911 Thanks, Daniel, and apologies, that is in deed more then I knew. I have a hard time understanding the chemistry behind it, but maybe they have some clever zinc-based additives that come with their actual rust converter.
Hier mein Tip: Für solche Fälle nehme ich Ausbesserung von WS Zink mit hohem Zinkanteil gegen Rost. Es wird bei Verzinkereien für Fehlstellen nach der Verzinkung eingesetzt.
Thanks, Bryan. You can order them on Amazon. Here’s the link to the German Amazon, I guess it will lead you to your country’s. Yuhtech Gummidichtungsset für Kabel, 200 Pcs Gummitülle Kabeldurchführung Gummi Unterlegscheiben Sortiment Set für Draht, Stecker und Kabel www.amazon.de/dp/B08Y1F4TT5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_CTJRQ3JKEE474VJRGKZY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I currently have my rear torsion bars out of my car. I guess it would be a good idea to corrosion protect the inside of the tube but for once it seems like Internet don’t have an answer. Do you have a sugestion?
Servus Herr Fingers. Haben Sie wirklich nur 2x 1l Fluid Film an der 911er benutzt? Alles noch OK in BY? Keine Corona oder Putin probleme? Ich frage aus interesse an weitere info über Ihre 105. Alles gute. Der Insel Affe.
2 sollte heissen eine schwehr u. eine dünne? Ich bin seit 'C' nicht mehr auf der Insel gewesen. Ist natürlich überfällig. Die Queen vermisst mich! Bin zeit 10 Jahre jetzt im Nordschwarzwald zuhause. Alles gute Mike.
Great video. Unfortunately, I have had the pleasure of seeing the inside of all the areas you are applying Fluid Film on my F-Body, '72. Where I have gained access I have been cleaning out the rust with brushes and metal conditioner and then applying a cavity primer. What I have been worried about is where I applied the primer to two panels that I have welded to together. As I know that the cavity primer where the welds are has burned away. I'm thinking when I am all done to go ahead and apply the fluid film as you have done for extra protection. Do you have any idea of what fluid film would do to a cavity primer? Would it eat it away or just stay on its surface? Also, I have had the pleasure of rebuilding the entire jack point area with all new pieces. That was fun, but now I am confident that is was all done right. Same with the interior rocker panels. Again, right before I welded everything up, I applied the cavity primer/sealer to the inside sections.
Hey Rodney! I could discuss that with you all night long. I do think that cavity primer is the right choice, I use exactly that in my projects. The parts where I do spot welding I mask off because as you say, welding will burn the paint. I apply so called Inox spray to the welding surfaces which is basically stainless steel particles embedded in some synthetic binder. It’s supposed to melt during spot welding, but not burn off and solidify again and as it’s electroconductive it allows to nicely ignite an arc. I think I had the camera on when I applied this method during the upcoming GT project. Now Fluid Film. I‘m quite sure it won’t harm the primer. It’s basically wool grease, totally organic and natural. Not sure whether it penetrates the spot weld seams, but that could easily be found out with some model. Talk to you soon, Johannes
New to your channel. Fascinating info and soothing narration. Regarding this video-is this technique of shooting this fluid into the dark recesses of cars something you’ve come up with or is it “a thing” people do?
Thanks, Adam. It’s definitely a thing people do. From the mid eighties on manufacturers even started doing it at the production line. Look at this ruclips.net/video/MF49JtXAGO8/видео.html from 10:15 on …
I'm using FF on my classics for almost 25 years. Can't recommend it high enough, very, very good product. Can you share a link for that endoscope? Thanks!
Fantastic episode. thank you very much. I could not find the time to view this till this morning-I normally see your stuff day 1. THanks for the links to products used. Do you have any thoughts about spraying the interior regions with a rust encapsulator before you apply Fluid Film. Also, I'm thinking any area that had been welded in a spot repair needs to be hit again The boroscope is an essential tool. I'd never buy another car without using it. BTW-I'm finally picking up a TIG welder this week. I want to get going on my 66TI. Bought an engine last month so the parts are coming together. Cheers and thanks
Thanks, Steve. Frankly, I was waiting for you already. I touched on the point rust protection of interior regions in a conversation with Rodney the other day. Please scroll down just a bit to find it. My next film will contain more details. Cheers for you TI project! Looking forward to hearing how it goes.
Thanks, Nick. It took me about a day, but I had to think about the where and how. If you you cover all the Liquid A with NAS, it should be okay for 5 years.
Stop using brunox it is worth nothing just marketing. Do some research on it or look at some others test. use fertan where you can it is better but not so easy to use... or look for other rust converter. Your effort is worth more than brumox.
Thanks for sharing your opinion, Adam. To my experience rust conversion is too complex a topic to cover it with simple terms. To my experience, Brunox is good in converting thin layers of rust and conserving the result, but doesn’t penetrate rust deeply. It’s advantage lies in the very good adhesion of further layers of paint. Major rust attack is better to be treated with more penetrating fluids such as Fertan, but if there’s major rust in my cars I prefer to remove the panels completely.
@@GreasyFingers ok your choice. I dont trust it. Used it and stopped. If it is not deep penetrating converting rust how do you know when it is too much... would not trust such product. Any way love your videos gonna keep watching.
I still think about this video and it worries me. I need someone outside of NYC who can do this for me even though the car never sees even the rain I know the evil redox rxn is lurking
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent; superb. You now have me scared, no, terrified, and concerned enough to get off my butt and go through these procedures on my ‘87 Carrera. Thanks for posting details on the equipment used. I would have been asking here.
Thanks, Bob. Yeah, it drives like before, so it’s not very rewarding to have it done, but it saves you money on the long run.
@@GreasyFingers It’s rewarding enough to know that you’ve done what you could to delay the inevitable and given yourself more time to enjoy what is now a classic.
@@RleogPhotog So true!
Nice work... I put a tape near the nozzle so I know when it almost comes out...
Thanks for the tip, mate!
I thought about tape too, but noticed some holes seemed just wide enough to allow the hose in. I considered the tape might bind so I recommended color coating which would possibly be thinner than tape.
Great episode, sir. Took a lot of over spray in the face, I expect you won't rust either.
That’s why I’m getting fatter all the time, now I know! 😆
Very good video again! When protecting my Alfa this way, I did put a piece of colored tape around the tube a couple of centimeters from the nozzle. This to avoid the spray in your face every time the nozzle pop’s unexpectedly out of the hole.
Thanks! That would have been definitely better.
So informative, one of my favourite channels. Nicely done
Thanks Timothy.
You are back!!!!Great episode!!
Yeah, survived the GT-project, now back at making films.
Fluid Film is amazing stuff.
Great job! On top, your voice is calm and your narration is so relaxing! Thank you for this quality content!
Thanks, Aziz. ☺️
OH MY GOD!!!!!
I had my car in the restoration/changes shop about 4 years ago getting lots of things done for a year, and while they were mucking about they found a couple of places where there was rust, and they cut out the decay and welded in new metal at the spot. Then just last week when I had my Carrera at my new mechanic shop it was on the lift waiting for suspension parts to arrive. Dan the owner of the shop didn't mind me coming over and very very slowly looking at everything under my P- car. Most shops would not let you do this. I went on several different occasions to see the progress of the suspension and so other upgrades. How many P-car owners have ever had a chance to be under their car as long as they wanted?
The second I was other there all 4 tires were off the car and I looked where the jack hole is and then toward toward where the driver's seat is and there it was... FKING rust eating my metal slowing like 50 metal-eating ants in one spot. One of the sports you brought up in this video. I am not one to be awed by HUge work projects/problems but the corrosion program you have is SO eloquently and succinctly said and showed; it's far beyond my comprehension... even if someone else would be doing the work ($$$$$$$). It's just TOO FKING much to comprehend. In 15 years I will be 92 yrs. old. My wife and I have no kids, my brother has no kids and never will, same with my wife's brother, and none of them care a hoot about cars.
So do I pick the current number from the machine and wait for a time when my car MIGHT have a chance to see my mechanic and stop the corrosion ? I owe it to my car, but how long will they even let these older cars be on the road (you can see I am starting to rationalize the situation). Don't get me wrong, EVERYTHING you said and did in this video is SO right it is just "what will I do with that information?" Instead of getting a number -which is a metaphor not an actual thing at Dan's shop- I will put a sticky tag on my wall calendar for December 2022 and it will say, YES or NO - corrosion protection.
Thanks again for showing and telling something that NO other P-car site has ever gone into in such depth, and with actual solutions to the problem.
"A garage without a Porsche is just a dark hole" -Walter Rohrl - Porsche Development
Another high quality instructional Video. Thanks.
Top work as always, thanks for sharing!!
Thank you, Jiri!
Now that was impressive!
As always…. So good. Love the attention to the details. A lovely car. Well done
Many thanks!
I would suggest putting tape on the spray tube about 3 inches (7.5cm) from the end so you know when its about to come out of the panel. This way it won't spray all over your face and car as it comes out of the body panel.
Wunderbares Video! Bin immer wieder beeindruckt, mit welcher Liebe und Genauigkeit die Arbeiten gemacht werden! 👍👍👍
Danke fürs Feedback!
Excelent work!!! I very much appreciate the time, effort and details of your work.
Thanks, Mark!
Put a spot of red paint 5cm before the nozzle.
And thank you for great video....
Grear series !!!! thank you for the valuable information you are providing . Safe travels .
Thanks, mate!
Loved this video great looking car as well.
Thanks, Liam.
Please recommend it to friends. 🙂
More ASMR content :-) thanks. I am interested in your single post lift. I assume the preparation of the surface to which it is attached is extensive. I am looking at 2 post but that single post gives such good access.
Hi David. Actually not. It’s mounted on wheels, so you can move it around.
Yeah go verify information from producer twinbusch there are all information about the concrete it should be used on.
Great. Thanks all.
I think you must have added 5 kilos of oil and grease 🙂. FLUID Film is available in spray cans here in the US and I have used it on my pick-up truck frame. I had not thought about applying this to my Carrera, but now thanks to you, I will be following in your footsteps. Thank you very much for the time you put into your videos and for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Thanks for commenting, Jack.
If it does it in Michigan, it does it everywhere.
In fact I pour in a lot and just let it drip out again into jars. (In order to have enough jars at hand, I need to eat a lot of Marmelade and Nutella.)
Zu schön die Gesichtskonservierung mit Fluid Film am Ende des Videos. Absolut Bio übrigens, weil Lanolin :)
👱🏿♂️
Great videos on this channel I find myself watching multiple times. I could not find however the links for the equipment you used. Need to do this on my 77 911 S, hopefully no hidden surprises!
Yeah, that’s right, unfortunately the links are broken.
When the time has come to start your project, please send me a PM and we discuss the right products.
Valuable knowledge. Thanks!
Great content as usual. Thanks
Thank you, George.
Thank you this video and explanation. We're restoring a 1972 Volkswagen Super Beetle and this gives me ideas. I might suggest color coating your tubing so that you can recognize the "end of line" to prevent over-spraying.
Thanks for the feedback & suggestion, Robert.
I really need to do something about it next time …
@@GreasyFingers I've subscribed and I'm watching more of your work. What are your thoughts on POR15?
@@anangelshero0410 Glad you like my channel.
I personally don’t have experience with POR15, but some US guys I know tell me it’s great.
@@GreasyFingers I'm stationed in Germany and just ordered some from Berlin. I want to restore the '72s gas tank.
@@anangelshero0410 Hallo Robert. Verstehe. Ich habe den Tank von meinem 77er Elfer mal ersetzt, weil er mir innen zu rostig war. Damals habe ich mich gegen eine Reparatur mit Chemie entschieden, weil die K-Jetronic jede Menge kleine Ventile usw hat, die leicht verstopfen. Aber das ist ja bei Deinem Käfer kein Problem.
Rust is reality . A very real reality for older cars - and particularly Italian cars.
I’d say your approach makes sense. Anything that prevents oxidation has to be good. And too may waxs clearly don’t have the penetrative ability.
Of course , money no object , zinc galvanization or zinc spraying etc etc are probably perfect.
But then again let’s be real .
Thanks for commenting, Hugo.
„Rust is reality“ … I’m moved to print this out and nail it to the workshop wall.
@@GreasyFingers I’m totally happy for you to do that. It has a certain ring to it. And it is so relevant to old cars . And let’s be honest, for all their faults, old cars are us. Far from perfect , indeed absolutely imperfect, and yet for all of that, an honest representation of who we are. Striving to be better, but constantly constrained by our own realities
No, that’s a misunderstanding. External surfaces must be cleaned before they are sealed. I was talking about the cavities.
I clicked "Like" first and then watched the video. In my view there was no doubt it would be interesting, well filmed and have some amusing comments too. All true. Thank you for sharing. PS - maybe put a marker on the flexible tube at 50mm from the end so you know when you have the nozzle nearly out of the panel hole?
Thanks, James. That is such a cool feedback.
PS: Yeah, but then it wouldn’t splash in my face! 😆
@Greasyfingers. Very nice and informative video!
8:36 you put fluid film in each of the 3 service holes along the floor pan. I have an 88 carrera myself and have put an endoscope camera in there and there seems to be some road dirt and very minor rust pitting. Nothing major but you can start to see tiny little rust Color spots. What could be the cause of this? And should I spray the fluid film even if there is dirt or don’t put any? I guess the only way to clean it out would be to drill a big enough hole to put a small vacuum? Thanks
Appreciate any answer 😎
Even if there is very minor rust Color in there that’s seems to be just surface should fluid film be applied ? Is it bad to put cavity wax on top of rust, wouldn’t it trap moisture within or eliminate the moisture ?
Thx
Hi Lucas.
Yes, these little rust spots are normal and they are not much to worry about. Steel does corrode and when the thin zinc layer on the surface is eaten up, atmospheric oxygen is all it takes to start the process.
I personally think that some thin oil-based product is best for cavities, because it penetrates the rust that’s already there, rather than covering it like wax would do. If you go for fluid film, take their product with the highest viscosity.
Removing dirt from in there is obviously impossible and drilling a huge whole would be far over the top. Though it doesn’t sound very appetising, a mixture of oil and dust protects steel quite well.
hth
@@GreasyFingers Thank you for the quick response . Greatly appreciated!!! One side seems to be just dust and the other side seems to be road dirt, small rocks/ pebbles and much more build up. I believe that side had a small kidney bowl repair. Even if there is not just dust but road dirt and small pebbles should I spray the oil film in there regardsless ?
Again, very helpful videos and I truly appreciate that you took the time to answer. Cheers 😎
I know these videos are 3-4 years old but have you noticed any stone guard flaking/cracking that you applied/fixed yourself ? Has any of the stone guard you added bubbles at the top of the front fenders or kidney bowls? I’m just curious that’s all :)
@@lucasbourgault9434No, that’s a misunderstanding. External surfaces must be cleaned before they are sealed. I was talking about the cavities.
Great video and videos 👏🏻. Surprised you didn’t make a mark on the tube a inch or so from the end to warm you it’s about to come out!?
Thanks!
I’m surprised too. Sometimes the obvious is hard to see. 🙄
This is an old but excellent thread. I have a couple of questions regarding a 1973 911S. Have you considered the effect of Fluid Film on the Heater Duct Silencers inside the inner rocker panel? Mine are made of a paper material, could they deteriorate?
You mentioned extra access holes in the floor plan later SC model. I have 4, two on each side towards the front on either side. Can you identify where the others are on the SC?
Thanks.
Thanks, Charles.
Fluid Film is lanolin-based, I don’t think it will harm paper material, but to be sure, I’d try in the open.
As much as I know, Porsche has permanently modified the position of these holes. Just try to find all of them and use the tube to find out into which cavities they bring you.
@@GreasyFingers Thanks, I'm more concerned with odor in the cabin when the heat is on. Have you noticed a change?
The 4 outside holes in the floor pan of my 73 enter the inner rocker area. There's also oval slots inside the cabin that open to the same area. I have the inner rocker panels removed therefore have multiple ways to prime & protect. Thanks again for posting your process.
@CharlesLArbez Oh yes, absolutely. The lanolin is quite smelly. If you don’t like that, it’s not the right product for you.
@@GreasyFingers Thats good to know. I've only tested the aerosol version & didn't find it too smelly. I may rely on epoxy under the heater tubes & apply Fluid Film just to the "Hot Spots" as you call them. This should also reduce the leakage I assume you can expect on hot days. Thanks again, Charles
Hallo ein Super Video top Arbeit 👍👍👍Mit freundlichen Grüßen aus dem Ruhrgebiet Kai
Danke, Kai!
Kommst mit dem Lada voran?
@@GreasyFingers ja Stück für Stück b fange jetzt auf der rechten Seite an
Great episode as usual ! Very informative and leading to how to do things that scratches your head. I'm restoring a classic 911 and got many holes that are left open or with old rubber caps. Where did you buy the rubber cap box we can see at 11:17 ?
Thanks, Nicolas.
The box is simple Amazon stuff. “Rubber plug” will bring you there.
@@GreasyFingers Checked Amazon and the right terminology found it straight ! I was looking for caps or grommets and would'nt find anything suitable ! Thanks and greetings from Strasbourg !
🇫🇷 🇩🇪
Will a shop in the US be able to do this for me to a 993? I also think about these things. Thank you for this video.
Yeah, it’s time to tackle this. 993‘s have that certain age …
@@GreasyFingers Will you do a video on your rustproofing techniques on a 993? Are the access points the same as in this video? I'd love to see a diagram of where to spray ( and also what water channels to clear and how) Thank you.
@@Laguna2013 Sorry, mate, can’t help you there. I don’t have a 993 to play around with. If, however, anyone reads this who lives in Munich area and owns a 993 in need of some cavity protection, feel perfectly free to reach out.
@@GreasyFingers ich hab einen 1994 993 C2 und bin nicht so weit weg von München. Den würde ich dir gerne ausleihen für ein Video! Natürlich kann ich dir auch bezahlen für deine Zeit, etc. Lieber Gruss, Christian
@@caknaus Hi Chris. Kannst Du machen. Kontaktiere mich bitte per Mail, die Adresse findest Du im „About“ meines Kanals.
great video. Thanks. It might be just me but I can't see the description in the details for the spray applicator you recommend. I think I need to do this to my 115 Spider
Thanks!
In fact the links to matoopa don’t work any longer. I have to remove them from the description but haven’t yet found time. The product you’re looking for is the Vaupel 3300.
15:30 you mention Vaupel gear and a collaboration with Matouba I think - but I Can not find the link in the description - please Can you also provide what product you use for inspection - it connects via Bluettoth
Hi Christian, yes Matoopa unfortunately didn’t make it through the years, here’s the Amazon Link: amzn.to/3U1w8W8
The endoscope is just a simple Amazon no name.
Don't forget the base of the A pillar.
Exactly!!
You mean that sort of pocket that is covered by the fender, right? Good point. I did that while the fenders were off.
@@GreasyFingers not sure, typical spot at the corner of the windshield....the sunroof drain pipe is in there.
Don't remember if it's accessible from the trunk, difficult .
Tschüss
64 TI and 87 Carrera
@@flyingarts6765 You have a 64 TI and an 87 Carrera? Are we twin brothers separated after birth?
@@flyingarts6765 Have I a film for you: ruclips.net/video/0OKqx6VL0n0/видео.html
Having not long ago fought the good battle (and won!) against rust on my 911SC - including around the rocker panels, I have yet to protect the internals as you've depicted in this video. Is there any logic perhaps in using a coating such as Fertan's rust converter first in these tight quarters. It leaves a protective Zinc coating. Then to follow up with a protective film, such as the one you've used? I appreciate your thoughts and great video!
Hi Daniel, thanks for commenting.
Rust converters like Fertan create stable iron compounds from iron oxides. That’s all they do, you can’t create any Zinc coating with them. In case you don’t have any rust, they don’t do much, but unless you rinse them out with water they remain inside and though I don’t see any specific issue with that, I don’t very much like the thought.
I recommend to only use Fertan if you really have proof for rust. You might want to check with an endoscope first.
@@GreasyFingers I will definitely give the endoscope a shot! With Fertan, I was only quoting their blurb: "It also leaves a protective zinc coating that prevents rust from coming back for up to 6 months." I've used Fertan on other things before getting around to properly applying a painted top coat, but the internals are another story. Thanks for your input.
@@dra911 Thanks, Daniel, and apologies, that is in deed more then I knew. I have a hard time understanding the chemistry behind it, but maybe they have some clever zinc-based additives that come with their actual rust converter.
Hier mein Tip: Für solche Fälle nehme ich Ausbesserung von WS Zink mit hohem Zinkanteil gegen Rost. Es wird bei Verzinkereien für Fehlstellen nach der Verzinkung eingesetzt.
Danke für den Tip!
As usual, great video.
Where can I get a box of grommets like the one at 11.23 minutes?
Thanks, Bryan.
You can order them on Amazon. Here’s the link to the German Amazon, I guess it will lead you to your country’s.
Yuhtech Gummidichtungsset für Kabel, 200 Pcs Gummitülle Kabeldurchführung Gummi Unterlegscheiben Sortiment Set für Draht, Stecker und Kabel www.amazon.de/dp/B08Y1F4TT5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_CTJRQ3JKEE474VJRGKZY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I currently have my rear torsion bars out of my car. I guess it would be a good idea to corrosion protect the inside of the tube but for once it seems like Internet don’t have an answer. Do you have a sugestion?
I took Fluid Film Liquid A.
Thanks!
Could not see a link for the gun and fluid film. Approximately how much liquid is needed? Read all the posts and now have my answers😁
Yeah, I’m sorry, Nigel, the company I used to work with is no longer in business.
@@GreasyFingers found a company it Germany who supply it but they won't ship to Spain but will ship to Slovakia. 😁
Servus Herr Fingers. Haben Sie wirklich nur 2x 1l Fluid Film an der 911er benutzt? Alles noch OK in BY? Keine Corona oder Putin probleme? Ich frage aus interesse an weitere info über Ihre 105. Alles gute. Der Insel Affe.
Hallo Mike, ja, zwei sind genug.
Wie geht’s auf der Insel?
2 sollte heissen eine schwehr u. eine dünne? Ich bin seit 'C' nicht mehr auf der Insel gewesen. Ist natürlich überfällig. Die Queen vermisst mich!
Bin zeit 10 Jahre jetzt im Nordschwarzwald zuhause. Alles gute Mike.
Great video. Unfortunately, I have had the pleasure of seeing the inside of all the areas you are applying Fluid Film on my F-Body, '72. Where I have gained access I have been cleaning out the rust with brushes and metal conditioner and then applying a cavity primer. What I have been worried about is where I applied the primer to two panels that I have welded to together. As I know that the cavity primer where the welds are has burned away. I'm thinking when I am all done to go ahead and apply the fluid film as you have done for extra protection. Do you have any idea of what fluid film would do to a cavity primer? Would it eat it away or just stay on its surface? Also, I have had the pleasure of rebuilding the entire jack point area with all new pieces. That was fun, but now I am confident that is was all done right. Same with the interior rocker panels. Again, right before I welded everything up, I applied the cavity primer/sealer to the inside sections.
Hey Rodney!
I could discuss that with you all night long.
I do think that cavity primer is the right choice, I use exactly that in my projects. The parts where I do spot welding I mask off because as you say, welding will burn the paint. I apply so called Inox spray to the welding surfaces which is basically stainless steel particles embedded in some synthetic binder. It’s supposed to melt during spot welding, but not burn off and solidify again and as it’s electroconductive it allows to nicely ignite an arc. I think I had the camera on when I applied this method during the upcoming GT project.
Now Fluid Film. I‘m quite sure it won’t harm the primer. It’s basically wool grease, totally organic and natural.
Not sure whether it penetrates the spot weld seams, but that could easily be found out with some model.
Talk to you soon,
Johannes
New to your channel. Fascinating info and soothing narration. Regarding this video-is this technique of shooting this fluid into the dark recesses of cars something you’ve come up with or is it “a thing” people do?
Thanks, Adam.
It’s definitely a thing people do. From the mid eighties on manufacturers even started doing it at the production line.
Look at this ruclips.net/video/MF49JtXAGO8/видео.html from 10:15 on …
@@GreasyFingers glad to know I shouldn’t need to do an intravenous intervention in my 987.2, then!
@@JuanAdam12 well, you see, the stuff doesn’t stay in there forever. I’d consider 10 years as a reasonable age to fresh it up for the first time.
@@GreasyFingers I see. But do newer Porsche’s have access holes like the ones you drilled for re-injection of the fluids, or is it still a DIY-thing?
Yeah, they have factory-made access holes.
I'm using FF on my classics for almost 25 years. Can't recommend it high enough, very, very good product. Can you share a link for that endoscope? Thanks!
Thanks for the testimonial!
The endoscope is not a product that one would recommend. „Second cheapest in Amazon“ kind of buy.
Hey Greasy Fingers, I saw a inner window sticker from your channel onto your car...where can we get one of these ?
Hi Gerald. Please drop me a mail with your address and I’ll send you some.
Your comment reminds me I wanted to make them available in a shop too.
@@GreasyFingers mail sent !
many thanks so far
Fantastic episode. thank you very much. I could not find the time to view this till this morning-I normally see your stuff day 1. THanks for the links to products used.
Do you have any thoughts about spraying the interior regions with a rust encapsulator before you apply Fluid Film. Also, I'm thinking any area that had been welded in a spot repair needs to be hit again
The boroscope is an essential tool. I'd never buy another car without using it. BTW-I'm finally picking up a TIG welder this week. I want to get going on my 66TI. Bought an engine last month so the parts are coming together. Cheers and thanks
Thanks, Steve. Frankly, I was waiting for you already.
I touched on the point rust protection of interior regions in a conversation with Rodney the other day. Please scroll down just a bit to find it. My next film will contain more details.
Cheers for you TI project! Looking forward to hearing how it goes.
@@GreasyFingers Johannes-you never cease to amaze. Thanks for all the guidance
Great video as always, how long did it take you to fully coat all of the cavaties and how often do you need to re-coat?
Thanks, Nick.
It took me about a day, but I had to think about the where and how.
If you you cover all the Liquid A with NAS, it should be okay for 5 years.
It doesn't appear the vaupel pressure cup gun is available in the US. any equivalent alternatives?
If you don’t buy the cheapest Chinese rubbish, you’ll be alright.
Great Video! What amont of Liquid Film did you need for the whole vehicle?
Thanks!
I used about 1,5 litres Liquid A and about 0,5 litres NAS.
the link to the air sprayer is not in the description how do I spell the brands name ? thanks
Sorry, mate. The company from the link went belly up. The name of the brand is Vaupel.
hi, I know this is old but can you spell the brand name of the pressure cup sprayer please.
Hi Ian. That’s Vaupel.
Sauber. Interessant ist tatsächlich, dass sämtliche hinteren Löcher in meinem 84er nicht vorhanden sind.
Das ist in der Tat interessant! Hintere = am Unterboden hinten?
@@GreasyFingers genau, weder die seitlichen, noch die hinten im Radhaus
Kinda crazy... I just found your channel. We have the exact same two cars in the same spec.(911 and Giulia) Drop a line. This is bizarre:))
In deed it is.
Where are you from?
Great work….. But this is why I don’t own old cars
It only makes sense if you enjoy working on them. 😊
The drilling does not make me happy though
Didn’t make me happy either.
Stop using brunox it is worth nothing just marketing. Do some research on it or look at some others test. use fertan where you can it is better but not so easy to use... or look for other rust converter. Your effort is worth more than brumox.
Thanks for sharing your opinion, Adam.
To my experience rust conversion is too complex a topic to cover it with simple terms. To my experience, Brunox is good in converting thin layers of rust and conserving the result, but doesn’t penetrate rust deeply. It’s advantage lies in the very good adhesion of further layers of paint. Major rust attack is better to be treated with more penetrating fluids such as Fertan, but if there’s major rust in my cars I prefer to remove the panels completely.
@@GreasyFingers ok your choice. I dont trust it. Used it and stopped. If it is not deep penetrating converting rust how do you know when it is too much... would not trust such product. Any way love your videos gonna keep watching.
Very meticulous, this car will have a great chance of surviving for years and years with plenty of road use. Great work
Thanks, David. Yeah, when it comes to corrosion, I thing we’re good for some years now.
I still think about this video and it worries me. I need someone outside of NYC who can do this for me even though the car never sees even the rain I know the evil redox rxn is lurking
Yes, I think you do.
But with my film, I guess even lesser skilled mechanics should be able to get this done. 😆