Best Method To Bleed Mustang Clutch (05-14)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- This is the most successful method of clutch bleeding for the S197 that I've found. Quick and easy. Steps are:
1) Get firmness in clutch pedal
2) Disconnect line from brake/clutch reservoir
3) Plug reservoir to prevent leaks
3) Connect vacuum pump to CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER line
4) Pump vacuum pump to 20
5) Let sit for 1 minute
6) Press the trigger to release all air
7) Clutch pop 15 times
Repeat the above process about 3 times
Please consider subscribing if this helped you at all!
Always feel free to leave a comment and follow me on social media:
Instagram: @CarsAndDrums_
Twitter: @CarsAndDrums
Facebook: @CarsAndDrums
God Bless
"Terminology is very important." - Penis pump! Hilarious! :-) Good job! In any fluid system like cooling that can trap air bubbles, applying a vacuum causes the bubbles to run to the vacuum source. Also in this case, the slave cylinder will collapse, pushing fluid and bubbles up toward the master cylinder. That bleeds the slave cylinder and the line, while popping the clutch pedal helped bleed the master cylinder as well as replacing fluid in the slave cylinder so it could re-extend toward the clutch fingers. Being that much of the clutch line is vertical, gravity helps bubbles make their way from slave to master. With any new master or slave cylinder, it's a good idea to pre-bleed those on the bench before installation, to get as much air out as you can before starting the final bleeding procedure. McLeod also sells a little bleed screw which attaches between the slave and the line to make that part easier/more effective. Again, good job! If one day car repair isn't your thing, you can always do "malaprop" comedy at stand-up!
What kind of Pump did you say that was? A What kind of pump?
Butterville Music vacuum pump. Idk what else you could think I said...
I was thinkin the same thing 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Almxghtykp issa joke
😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣
I’m almost done.. I’ve repeated 4x..
Great video, only part I’m missing is when you disconnect that hose from the reservoir do you plug it or something so the fluid is not just pouring out and 2nd when do you connect back to reservoir and how is that process go without re-introducing air into the system?
I'm with you. It doesn't make sense. Pulling vacuum doesn't make sense without fluid
Did u ever figure it out? Or get an answer?
@@tylergray6308u ever figure it out?
Funniest guy 🤣🤣 was frustrated and finally got the good vid for it
Xavier Mendoza 🙌🙌🙌
I don’t get why you would make a video without actually doing the process
You are going to show us how to do this right and use the correct terminology? I pressed my clutch unit abt 100 time let it sit for 4 hours and did it again, gravity did the work for me. I popped the lid on the master cylinder so it would breath better. I then started the car and slowly engaged the clutch. Turned it off and repeated the process the next morning I had some clutch pedal, so I took it for a road test. Starting in second gear cause 1st would not go it. After 20 miles of stop and go it was much better. Next morning I repeated the clutch process abt 100 times and took it for a drive, after abt 20 more miles it was fine. Gravity will work it just takes time
James Moore that’s a lot more work than the method used in my video lol
James Moore when you drove the car did you put the lid back on?
You had me cracking up man thanks
Love this. Thank YOU!
I replaced my clutch and when I start the car and have the clutch in and go to put it into 1st on jack stands btw the wheel just start spinning?!? I’m so confused any ideas?
Ps 2011 mustang gt btw
Make sure you got all air out. Also there’s a plastic pin that mates the pedal assembly to the master cylinder. If that pin is loose/bent it won’t allow you to fully disengage the clutch
You are not accidentally saying that
My clutch is just slammed down.ll
I think I ordered the wrong pump bro
dang
@@CarsAndDrums I used ur tips and feels good so far just need to break in the clutch but I don’t feel like driving it 😅
Imma try this tomorrow on my ‘06 MX5 (3rd gen, aka NC) Miata. It has a similar setup with a shared reservoir (there’s actually a small section inside with a baffle), and a hose running sideways to the master cylinder. (Previous Miatas from ‘90-05 have a wholly separate clutch reservoir.)
I replaced my master and slave cylinders today for the first time; I struggled for hours today because I didn’t know about this method. I did the traditional method of pumping from underneath at the slave cylinder, but just kept letting air and old fluid.
Wish you would do another demo video when you actually do this again.
BTW did you use any check valve or any other piece / attachment?
Good luck!
Why did you disconnect the bottom line ?
😅😂your penis I mean vacuum pump, I'm dying bruhhh
What if I can’t get enough pressure to 20? That was my issue doing this and I had to pump super slow to
Get up to 20
My clutch pedal is still soft and not letting me go into gear help, and yes it has brake fluid
Thanks, brother very helpful Goode Anya
My 06 has no signs of leaks when i turn on the car it doesn’t go into any gears at all even reverse ,and my clutch pedal has good pressure. Does anyone know what it could be?
ANGEL KØØŠH how old is your clutch and throw out bearing?
@@CarsAndDrums idk to be honest I bought the car about 4 months ago the mustang has 125,000 miles
@@angelksh567 might need a new clutch man!
@@CarsAndDrums update: yeah it was my clutch I replaced it 👍🏼 works butter now
Like he said in the video you must pump your clutch pedal first before disconnectomg any lines. Then you can go ahead and do this procedure.
Engaging at the “very top”, as in the top of the pedal when you have the clutch pedal down? Or do you mean AFTER you’ve released the clutch pedal and going UPwards?
I’m assuming you mean the prior, as I have a Camaro, with a Tremec TR-6060 (works fairly similar, if not identical), and the clutch biting point is maybe half an inch right after letting the clutch pedal back up, from depressing it down FULLY (for all you “half clutchers”).
I still have the stock master cylinder and all, with the rubber (EPDM) clutch line(s), and the engagement end point is probably somewhere around 3/4 - 7/8” roughly, as you let the clutch pedal UP from the very BOTTOM pedal travel. It’s rather spongy imo and a bit hard to tell; but if you have hard soled shoes or thin shoes where you can really feel, then you can kinda tell where you can let the pedal up quickly past the bite point, into the engagement point or right after it, and it will kinda “smack” into engagement, to show you where the engagement end travel is. There’s quite a fair amount of upward pedal travel after that, so.
Why did you remove the bottom line on the clutch master cylinder? you go from saying that you disconnected that to then later saying that the only line you disconnect is the top line on the clutch master cylinder.
Watch the video again. Pay more attention.
What if I added a new hydraulic slave cylinder do I have to connect it to the master Also??
Yes it’s the same process. Bench bleed the slave cylinder first though
What do u do when u undo the line and the master cylinder starts leaking the fluid
plug it with something
When i pump the vacuum pump and let it sit it just goes Down by itself and the clutch pedal gets soft with no pressure which leads me to not be able to do the clutch popping technique
Is everything done with the car off or on?
ALJ Tv car off. Sounds like you have a leak or something else isn’t right
Cars And Drums it worked once but i tried to do it again just to be on the safe side then that’s when it started doing it
Cars And Drums the vacuum pump sucks the fluid into the clear thing before the min is up
ALJ Tv if the pump is losing pressure you need to make sure your lines aren’t leaking
Hey bro! Can I just top off my clutch fluid or do I have to bleed it. 2014 ford mustang 73000 miles
Depends on what you did. If you exposed the clutch line to air, then you have to bleed the air out.
@@CarsAndDrums appreciate the response bro! I haven’t done anything yet I’m just gonna take it to the shop.
When my car gets warm My clutch slips in first gear at about 2000 rpm’s. Got any suggestions on what it might be?
@@danimal0126 could be clutch, trans, master or slave cylinder. Gotta diagnose it
@@CarsAndDrums that’s what I figured thanks man
My clutch pedal is hard when the car is off but gets soft when I turn it on what could that be?2012 Ford Mustang
Michael Alvarado sounds like you need a new line
Do you reconnect the hose to the master cylinder reservoir before pumping the clutch?
no sir!
@@CarsAndDrums I bought a vacuum pump and for the mustang, the way the clutch hose works, you don't have to vacuum pump the line. Just mine back from the shop s d they didn't have to do that to bleed the system because of the new configuration of the newer line. It has a loop in in the line that prevents the need of a vacuum pump
eric gawan is it a Ford part or aftermarket?
Thanx
bro...youre doing this wrong
Then why did it work?
Penus Pump!!!
Thank you for the information.
It was so flawless to like a genuine accident it was so well delivered the I think he might actually have a penis pump somewhere in his house and he really accidentally misspoke
I just did this after a shop replaced my clutch they told me I need to replace the clutch master cylinder also. So I did and while I was bleeding it and something popped inside the transmission and now fluid is leaking out of the bellhousing 😬
Jordan Ball it’s probably the clutch line. The slave cylinder connects to clutch line just outside of the transmission. Make sure it isn’t loose
@@CarsAndDrums That was it thanks!
Jordan Ball my pleasure!
Quick question, did you leave the fluid reservoir open or close the lid while doing this after filling up with fluid? 😁 Thanks, this is a big help!
closed but watch fluid level
@@CarsAndDrums awesome thanks! Yes everywhere I've seen they say watch the level. 👍👍
Thank you for the video. I'm installing the stainless steel clutch fluid line and separate reservoir.
Could this help a sticking clutch or slow returning clutch??
Kenny Jenkins idk man. I would first check your clutch lines.
Did you put a cap over the nipple on the master cylinder reservoir after connecting the master cylinder line to the vaccum pump? I have a 2015 GT btw, it seems to be the same concept.
Heath Manas sure did. Don’t wanna lose all that fluid!
Cars And Drums cool cool, appreciate the fast reply! I recently replaced my Clutch master cylinder and I’m having issues with the clutch sticking to the floor and locking me out of gear when high in the RPM range (7k plus) i tried this same method except with a suction cup where the reservoir cap is and still having the same issue. Any clue to what else it might be if this doesn’t work? My last effort would to bleed the slave but I really don’t wanna drop the trans!
Heath Manas no problem. Happy to help
Cars And Drums my bad i edited my comment above^ looking for all the info I can get!
High rpm lockout is caused from the remote mount shifter the cars come with
When I use the vacuum pump I can’t get it to 20 psi. Liquid just comes straight out and fills the bottle part of the pump
make sure all your lines are connected and not leaking anywhere!
will air bubbles in the clutch line cause a squeaking sound when releasing g the clutch pedal slowly?
Jeffrey Lombardi I don’t think so. Air in the line would more than likely cause the clutch to not fully disengage
BUTTER! I bought this pump😏 like two years ago, and I had never actually used it until today. Would add that instead of one minute at 20 psi, I pumped the clutch while under the 20 psi until the bubbles stopped coming out. Now it feels like butter. Thank you sir.
Jose R glad to hear man! Yea that pump works wonders and you know there’s always more than one way to do something. I appreciate the comment my man!
so your clucth was hard before?
Where did you get that tool from bro?
eccentric aquarius 85 Autozone!
The sex shop apparently. LoL
Nice vid, how can you tell if the master cylinder for the clutch is bad? My clutch gets stiff after highway driving, trying not to drop the trans, but looking it may be that way. Was hoping to just change the master, but will change out the whole system, clutch and all, if need be. Do you think it's the slave cylinder causing the stiffness? If I drop the trans, I'll just do the clutch and all the hydraulics at once, was just trying to keep it simple.
SykoEsquire I knew mine was bad because it was leaking, allowing air to get into the lines. Not sure on the stiffness issue you’re having
@@CarsAndDrums thanks for the reply! Guess I'll have to get down and dirty to get to the bottom of my issue.
SykoEsquire for sure! Let me know if there’s anything else I can help with. Shoot me a dm on instagram if so
Thats the exact same thing thats happening to me, getting of the highway, clutch is super stiff
@@marcanthony9659 For me, the fluid was bad. I bled the whole system, brakes and clutch. The stiffness went away. Long story short, brake fluid adopts water/moisture over time. Ruining its ability to work. Bleed your system, should get back to normal.
How did you get off the bottom tube on the clutch master cylinder?
DrewEverything there’s a u-shaped little clip you have to pull out
Cars And Drums dang thanks for the fast response! I’m replacing the clutch master cylinder and this is the only think I need left to do so. So just pull it straight out?? Not the tube that is connected to the reservoir, the one under it
Cars And Drums nvm just re-read your comment lol
Cars And Drums thanks a million times bro!! You got my sub 👍🏽
DrewEverything I appreciate that my man! Let me know if you need anything else!
I’ve tried this and now I have no clutch at all. Any ideas?
kortny moore did you replace any parts?