The Inside of a Surfer's Brain
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Another mic'd up session that ended up being one of the best of the year! Learned a ton and am so fired up for the next one lol! Enjoy
Brian James
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@longboard_sessions
Location: New Jersey, Longboard Surfing
Board: Clean Ocean Surfboards: 9'6" Chingona
Culture of longboarding of traditionalist, will always Humble the newbie. It's not whether you agree with Trent who carries Truth!! It is about relaxing your brain 🧠😜, less chatter,, no Analytics, otherwise your missing the true coach, the Ocean, wind, sun, which speaks volumes, you can't hear it!! If your only in your Head...I do enjoy your videos Judty a Hawaiian perspective. Mahalo
haha nice!! Yea I do see both sides to it.. I think I'll mix em for now
Here's the happy medium (and my system): Nine times out of ten, analyze and work on specific things. One time out of ten, just surf.
That's a great system. I'd say it's about my ratio as well
I love these mic'd up sessions! It's great to hear your thought process and self-talk. I tried a new 9.75" single fin on my 9'4" this past weekend, and it was too fast, the board sliding out from under me. Oh, well. No one got hurt, just my ego. In any case, it was a lovely beachday w/a full moon serenade at the end.
As a 50+ yr-old, I do tend to overthink everything. (Last year, I retook LGT and WSI, and older swimmers are focused on details as well.) If I didn't, I wouldn't be watching your vids and Ben's.
Even as I write this long-ss comment, I try to remember the wise words of Kunu: Less is More. This is only true, though, when one has learned and practiced something enough that it's intuitive and second nature. Anyway, those SanO waves in NJ are beautiful!🌊
Awesome thanks so much!!
Yes, I also tend to over think and sometimes simple is best. BUT, sometimes overthinking works too haha!
Im like you I analyze and want to know the steps, there are also moments where you have to just not think about it but feel it. But I can only feel it if I understand the reasons and some mechanics. Great video love the mic on the water, havent seen that before. Awesome. btw jersey is where I learned to surf, down in Seaside and Island Beach State Park. Keep rocking man.
Awesome thanks bro!! Yea I'm in the exact same boat as you. Most of those surfers who say 'just feel it bruh' have surfed since they were babies and forget what it's like to learn!
Great session! Since I started to focus on one thing each time in the water, my longboard surfing improved a lot. I like your scientific method!
That's great to hear! Glad it works for others and not just me
had to comment again, "I think somethings coming" thats me every time Im surfing lol.
hahaha yes!!
Love these, find them very helpful. I'm new to longboarding and at the point where I consintently catch waves and just sort of carve down the line. What longboarding moves should i learn first?
Oh awesome! I mean... I would jump straight to taking a couple steps and stepping straight back afterwards haha. But this is hard to say without seeing you on a wave first
Ohhhhh... glub glub glub glub. You always see it coming... just a second too late! XD
haha so true!
Thanks bro! Your vids have made this kina fit kina fat non surfer turn into a middle aged surfer thats getting better at all sorts of long board shenanigans. Howzit from Waikiki!
haha great to hear!! You got it.. keep rippin
i absolutely love your videos and you do remind me so much of Ben Constadine! Your excitement is so contagious and it encourages me to try more and improve!!
awesome thanks so much! Yea, Ben is the best!
It'd be interesting if you did a video with a shaper seeing what they do to make a noserider v a performance mal... and maybe take them out for a spin when ready
Oh yea that wuold be real fun!
Great video. I feel like if we also have your POV with a gopro I'd be perfect
Yea that could work.. gopros are just so annoying haha
I’ve not seen any of your videos for quite a while now, you have really improved so much! Looking really good
Thanks so much! Yea sometimes it's hard to see improvement. But a nice pair of fresh eyes can spot it
There were so many times that I was cheering for you as you hit the nose or did that turn. But I definitely think 19:29 was the most exciting! Really enjoyed this mic'd up episode!
haha thanks so much!! Yea I was really happy with that last turn. Not my best turn, but such a good spot FOR a turn.
Don’t think just flow
Sometimes that's the way it goes!
Hi, it's an impressive video and explanations. Thank you!
Would you tell me what microphone are you using now?
Thanks!! Zoom f2
Thanks for your answer!
I hope you have a great new year in 2024!
This video is just straight up beautiful, I’m a longboarder from South Africa and seeing other surfers in unique places is so cool
Awesome thanks so much!
You’re too hard on yourself! Those were all good rides with great fading cutbacks. Those were not nose riding waves
hehe thanks!! I am critical, but i do always have fun atleast hehe
You have more fun than anyone I’ve ever seen!
Love your videos and (as I’ve mentioned before) you took my longboarding to the next level.
Ok so my next issue (that I’m hoping you can help me with 🙏).
I’m having long waves like a boss and nose riding as and when I need to (also like a boss).
But I do shuffle steps to get there (as opposed to cross stepping).
Everytime im going surfing I’m telling myself that I WILL try to cross step, but I don’t want to risk ruining some lovely caught waves when I know I can boss it with my little shuffle.
Aaaaaaaargh!
Oh and I’m also goofy, and like to surf backhand (like you seem to). And I surf the UK which looks very similar to NJ (that last bit just for interest)
oh dang you're in a tough position haha! Sadly, I think you already know the answer to your dilemma. You must work out your cross stepping and you WILL ruin waves. But it's a process worth going through, trust me
I’m trying next time out, no matter what. Thanks as always 🤝
Thats the spirit hehe
What fin were you using this time? Thx
This was the Solo fins 'pivot fin'
Favorite new series 🤠
Yew! You may or may no be in the next one... was it you that I mic'd up the other day?
@@LongboardSessions I can't remember....it may have been another obnoxious greek italian. Maybe it was a fever dream
@@LongboardSessionscan't wait to see Anthony and Gilad mic'd up!
Beautiful edit my friend. Mic'd up Monday is gonna be a hit. Your gonna make "real time learning" a thing!
Thanks Billy! Yea I hope so.. having fun doing it that's for sure. Couple kinks to work out hehe
Wow you are really getting good. Unfortunately I don't have your footwork, but I'm learning to make my move to the nose more quickly while the wave is still lifting. Great session.
wow thanks!! Yea the footwork is tough.. it seems to take awhile to get good at it. I'm still learning
I hope this was a Solo Session! Otherwise, with all that chat and laughter the men in white suits may have been waiting for you on the beach to take you away - Joker vibes 😂
Great content as always, and it looked like a lovely session in fun waves!!
hahaha! Yea this was only me and my buddy, but iv'e done it a few times now in crowds. Def get some weird looks lol
Love these mic'd sessions. Holding the turn longer than you expect might also be a good thing to consider. That way your also going down the wave.. get some speed from gravity and setup for the next section.
Oh that's a great idea to hold the turn for longer. Maybe I'll try that next session!
Lovin’ the live mic’d stuff🤙
Awesome!!
This is so awesome!!! Love every minute of it! Thanks for such amazing content :)
Wow awesome! You got it, thanks
1st
This is awesome, glad that you show your pop up elements of the techniques
Thanks so much!! You got it
I’m avoiding practicing backside so much cuz everytime I surf I just wanna enjoy it and go front side sense my backside sucks 😂
Ah i hear ya. However, if you practiced backside and got better at it, you'd have just as much fun backside. I'm sure you already know this tho haha!
@@LongboardSessions haha yeah that’s what’s been on my mind. Just surfed Saturday. Typically it’s a right point break but the swell direction was weird and offered nice lefts while the rights closed out so I ended up just riding these short right close outs and I was just like ugh. I gotta get to practicing lol
Let me add a little incentive for doing the work. When to learn both directions more opportunities open up for you. There's nothing better that splitting a peak with a friend in the water who says "which way you going?"And you can chose to open up half the wave for your buddy. Or, on a crowded day you can move to the backside peelers that no one in riding. ...play with it. Have fun! Stay stoked!
@@billytuchscher absolutely agree most the time at a break there’s plenty of rights but typically lefts to and the goofy footers always enjoy the lefts with like 1/4 the competition. Plus it is annoying seeing a sick wave come and it be a left and I let it go. I don’t suck back side that bad but I can only rlly cruise back side. Not turns no tricks or anything
@@w.coast_piano6404 ....it sounds like you've set an intention. 😁😎 It'll happen!
what!!!! Looked so fun!!! Another great video! Love it❤
awesome, thanks so much!!
I LOVE these. Don't stop doing these plssss
haha excellent! Ok you got it
Where in NJ is this?
monmouth county!
Love the last turn into the impact zone... wish the wave kept going
Thanks!! Yea me too.. the wave wasn't very long at all, but really fun while it lasted hehe