Blackmagic Gyro Stabilisation | How To Get The Best Results
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- #blackmagicdesign #gyroscopic #pocket6k
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00:00 Intro
00:40 The Gimbal Walk
01:03 High Shutter Speed
02:06 High Frame Rate
02:47 Level Guides
03:39 Frame Guides
05:04 Manual Lens Data
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Кино
![FAQ: How to Use Gyro Stabilization for Perfectly Stabilized Video Footage [Gyroflow Free Plugin]](/img/1.gif)
I bought a bmpcc 6k pro a couple of months ago and it’s so refreshing to see a company do firmware updates on all their cameras instead of forcing you to buy the newest camera to get a new software feature
Yeah it’s amazing the 4k still getting these updates
Thanks. Actual information on how to get the best results and how it might effect the outcome of your shot.
Worth noting also: turn off image stabilization on your lens. Otherwise your footage won't record the gyro data.
That’s true if your using a stabilised lens.
That said I think I’d almost always prefer to use the lens stabilisation over relying on the gyro. Just because you can see what you’re getting in camera.
@@JonathanPalfrey would be cool to do a comparison
I believe the data is still there but the adjustments don’t consider what your lens sees, only what the sensor feels.
@@HikingWithCooper The data may be there in the footage, but I doubt it. Either way, Resolve won't show the option in the Stabilization menu.
very helpful information, thanks..
Thanks for this important information
Thanks!
Great video
The only solution that works for me is a combination of a steadicam plus gyro stabilization done with Gyroflow. Thank you for the tips, I did not know about the horizon marker line in BMCC cameras.
I shoot handheld with a manual lens. I don't want my footage to be too smooth I just want a little steadiness.
Thanks
Hi Jonathan, great video. I was wondering what kind of recording media yr using with this method. I’m finding that most struggle.
Excellent tutorial, worked very well for me. However I do have one question, I never entered date for the distance as I’m not sure how to calculate a 7.5mm on a micro four thirds sensor, do you know how I work this out? Thank you
Any comparisons on stabilized lens versus non stabilized with the gyro stabilization?
Would a solution for the zoom lens issue be to purchase one with I.S. PLUS shoot on a gimbal PLUS use regular old digital stabilisation in post? Main problem I have with these cameras is the rolling shutter which can be greatly corrected with gyro data..
For the manual lens data, is it necessary to enter in Iris and Distance data or is Focal Length enough? thank you
Thank you for these excellent tips!:) Should I type the lens original focal length or I should multiply it by camera's sensor crop factor?
Thanks. Just use the lenses original focal length.
@@JonathanPalfrey thank you!:)
Most of time I shoot 60 fps. And I use 1/120 shutter speed. So what the best shutter angle for 60fps?
Great video. Just a question, how do you do if you use a manual lens and a metabones speedbooster ?
Thanks, you’d need to multiple the focal length by the reducer. E.g if it’s a 0.71 speed booster times that by the focal length of the lens
You have no idea how grateful I am for tNice tutorials series
Amazing video! Off topic question, how do you process your Rode Podmic audio? I have the same microphone but yours sound amazing! Thank you in advance!
Haha thanks. I’m still figuring out how to get the best from it. So far just a bit of playing around with the noise gate and equaliser to try and get rid of some of the noise.
run a compressor in your audio chain
Use it with a rodecaster
What about the distance in the lens data? What do I set that to? is 3980mm to 4710mm specific to this example lens or to the scene?
Got a 6k G2 for 7.9 film ware, shot raw when I try the new version 18 studio for Gyro Stabilisation at the end a get a jellow image output.What I am I doing wrong?
I wish you had given some examples as to why 180 degree doesn't work with the gyro. Could you do another quick video on this? thank you
Shaking = movement, therefore motion blur. So even if you stabilize it, you will have the blur.
@@DeeDammersOfficial Yeah I get it. That's a shame. Was hoping to use this feature a bunch, but uncomfortable having to only use it with 75 degree shutter speed
It’s pretty obvious why. Look how jittery 24p is when you pan sideways. It’s not easy for software to guess whats in between those frames. Faster shutter speed is less jittery.
U could leave it at 180 and shoot a 30 fps. And if you want that 24fps look you can slow the 30fps by 80% it gave me super smooth shots with the gyro. Gimble level
There would still be quite a bit of motion blur doing that, I’d probably still go to at least 90 degrees just to be safe
do you find the high shutter speed makes it too jittery? if not, in which situations does it work best?
The jitter problem is normally it shooting past nearby objects or with water.
BMPCC Firmware 7.9
How do the focal length settings work if you're using a speedbooster? Should we input the actual focal length of the lens or the focal length after the crop factor is applied?
Yeah you need the focal length after crop factor is applied as it will need to know the perspective. Multiple by the speed booster e.g by x0.71 or x0.64
@@JonathanPalfrey and what about non speedbooster adapters? I've got 17-55mm from nikon with classic manual adapter. If I'm using 17mm do I need to type 17mm in menu or 34mm because of crop factor of the camera?
I really thought the lens data was to capture some metadata for editors , like the other slate , take etc.. Are you sure Lens data also works for gyro?
I actually cut this from the film but someone at blackmagic confirmed on their forums that if no lens data is added then it defaults to 18mm.
Like you I was a bit sceptical of it as you can you can write anything into the lens data box!
It does make senses that it would need to know how much to compensate, IBIS systems require you to enter a focal length for manual lenses
Should we consider the Crop Factor while we enter the focal length data?
Depends if you are using a speed booster or not. If you are then you’d want it what every it works out to be as effectively that’s what the sensor is seeing
Hello! I have the latest davinci 18.1.2. with a license, BM 4K is also updated to the latest firmware, but the gyro stabilization function is stupidly not in the list of stubs. I shot in braw, turned off the stub on the lens, turned on the optics stabilization function, the camera automatically entered the parameters of the lens (panasonic 12-35). What is the matter, comrades? Help!
Where did you find the info that the lens data is used?
If I use a manual zoom lens and zoom from 16-28 with a focal reducer chaning to x1.1 crop and set lens data to 100mm i don't get a noticeable change in results from staying at 28mm without focal reducer and setting lens data to 28mm.
It was mentioned by a blackmagic employee on their forum
forum.blackmagicdesign.com/viewtopic.php?t=163135&p=863565
I guess it would depend on the amount correction it needs to do
Is it possible to add the lens data after recording?
I’m not sure. In theory the metadata should be editable.
No matter what i do i cant get the option camera gyro to appear in resolve 18
You need update camera as well
you have to shoot BRAW
maybe you used a lens with is?
Gyro only works in braw, with lens stabilisation off. And when you have a fast enough storage option.
I suppose a nice update for BMCC users. For me, this workflow seems cumbersome for fake IBIS
Title template animation need the yellow block to be stretched to fit the text
clicking a "gyro" button in resolve is cumbersome?
@@flipnap2112Yes . Shooting on set, without knowing how the final shot will look and not knowing whether or not the shot will stabilize properly, is a hack and it’s unprofessional.
On a A73 or Canon R5 or similar , you can shoot all day with stabilization , bring all your footage into edit and it’s done. This workflow requires a whole extra layer of admin and processing.
How is that not cumbersome?
@@sebvontas9446 “Hack” is a subjective word (painters and illustrators from the early 1800’s called photography a “hack.”) And “Professional” simply refers to generating revenue from your art, not your process or equipment.
“Hack?” Many people would say using IBIS is in itself is a hack, along with onboard light metering, autofocus, white balancing, etc. Some would even suggest using a reflex camera and not not a tape measure is a “hack”. Not me, whatever it takes to make great art is perfectly fine.
Setting up a Cinema camera is in itself a “cumbersome” task. Most “professional” Cinematographers do not use IBIS. Most “professional” high end cameras do not offer it. Most “Professional” Cinema lenses do not offer it. Me? I do whatever it takes. Being a “Professional” is not tied to gear, nor process
Ultimately, any piece of the puzzle that helps my fellow cinematographers achieve their goal is good. This is why I dont go to forums and call people “unprofessional”. Thats usually reserved for behavioral problems around colleagues. Just go out, shoot great work and enjoy your gear. Have a great life
@@flipnap2112 Please dont lose any sleep over my comment. Nobody was mocking your gear, or attacking your integrity as a DP.
Dont understand your comparison between a reflex camera and a tape measure. (and im not inviting you to have another rant during a pensive, sleepless night because of another one of my comments)
Shooting and hoping it will work out in post after some stabilisation is simply not professional, I was not calling you or anyone else unprofessional. I was weighing-in on the conversation here.
PS. Saying "Have a great life" is very schoolgirl.
@@sebvontas9446 no thanks
yeah, i rather avoid gyro then slow shutter speeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeed
Fast shutter speed
Thanks