How to wire LED lights on a snow blower or tractor
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- Опубликовано: 3 дек 2016
- I show an easy way to install LED lights to your tractor or snow blower. I used Nilight LED lights which are 18 watts a piece and a Uxcell KBPC5010 single phase Bridge Rectifier for the job. For under $40 bucks you could have this set-up on your tractor or snow blower. Thanks for watching!
Good video. I am a little leery of wire nuts on a vehicle application so I will solder and use shrink wrap. I am going to be installing an 18W LED light on my Ariens snowblower. You explain thing very well BTW. John
Great video,very helpful. If I ever want to add brighter lights on one of my machines I will refer back to this. Thanks for making it.
Thank you for taking the time to post , very helpful information.
I will have lights on my blower now
The factory light is just awful. Thanks for watching.
Thx for a good video - now I can try making this on my snowblower!
You will find the small LEDs are a great mod. They shine where you want them and not into your eyes. Ariens sure screwed up with that awful dash light. You will be happy after you do yours. Thanks for watching!
Great explanation
Excellent 💡 Informative -> thanks much 👍
I just added LED lights to my 34 year old Toro snowblower. There is no stator to produce juice for them, so I just got a recepticle for one of my Milwaukee drill batteries and that's what powers the lights. It also powers heat grip warmers I installed. It's amazing how long a battery will last with heated grips and lights on!
Is it still working? What size battery are you using?
@@davidburris120 Mine works just fine. I'musing a Milwaukee 6 amp hour battery. Last time I cleaned out the driveway (took about 2 hours) the battery didn't run down much at all, and that was using my heated grips constantly. I didn't need the LED light because it was during the day. I don't use the light much because I don't use the blower much in the dark.
Thanks nice video tutorial.
Excellent video. Im adding an LED bulb onto my current headlight. I have a Tecumseh, should be okay to hook a rectifier to mine too. I'll let you know how it all goes.
Thanks for making this informative video.
so, how did it go? does it still work with the described set up?
"I almost said Damn"... lol... however you did :) Good instructions. Thanks.
Thanks.
Thanks
Can you provide the wiring diagram (or just comment) for a snowblower that already has a line coming from the stator. I have a Simplicity snowblower, no light. So I want to add a light. From another video I watched they said if that line is available, it's most likely for a light (or at least supplying power from the stator). My snowblower has that. Questioning if I need to go from that positive output, to a fuse (5A?), then to the rectifier, then to a switch (which I might skip...I don't care if they're on during the day) and then to the light. I plan to install a single LED light bar. Any input would be appreciated.
Is it possible to add led lights and continue to run the old bulb along with it?
I have a JD TRS26, it has a light in the handlebars, will this LED light project work on my machine?
Yes.
One suggestion I would offer is to add a two 2200uF 50V capacitors to filter the ripple out on the DC side of the rectifier.
Those capacitors will work wonders on the LEDs' life span !
Is there a way to ADD a headlight to a snowblower that didn't come equipped with one? I have a MTD 22" snowblower that was never equipped with a headlight but I would like to add one.. .so far the only RUclipss I have seen show replacing a standard headlight with an LED, not adding one... any suggestions?
I should add this unit has the ability to be started by plugging in an extension cord to a plug located on the top of the engine to start it electrically... not sure if this information is helpful to my question above
If you have a wire coming out of the engine, then you have a lighting circuit, so it could be done. If no wire then the only option is to add a tractor battery to the machine then you can attach lights straight off the battery. Attach a battery charger to the battery between uses. Look at how I added a new battery to my generator movie to get some ideas.
What wire comes from the snowblower to connect to the light
Look by the right handle bar, you have 2 wires on a modern machine that feed up into the light / hand warmers. That's the wires from the stator. You have a plastic connector near the engine to unplug it for service when you pull the engine. Either wire connects to the light because they are AC. DC like what a car uses has a positive and negative wire.
Thanks to your video, I will be adding these lights to my new blower - once it arrives. Since you have a season under your belt now, is there anything you wish you would have done differently? (I.E. positioning of the lights, etc) Thanks again!!
Make sure the light housing is waterproof.
yes it was my phone
007connecticut.....thanks for the video. I followed this process on my Platinum 30 SHO......the leds light (17w cree pods) but the barely light...... barely. Super dim. Any idea what may be the problem?
I'd try the light off of a 12v car battery. Maybe you have a defective light? If the light is good, check that the engine is putting out voltage.
Another Idea if the light is good, maybe there is very high resistance in the wiring, ie bad or dirty connections?
Could you add a dab of white grease in the marret, fo added corrosion resistance?
OCD, I know.
Sure white grease is good, but I think WD-40 would be even better for repelling water and keeping it rust free. I spray WD-40 on my switches on the dash without issues.
I only have one wire coming of the engine, what do I hook to the other side of the bridge rectifier?
If you only have 1 wire, then the other must be grounded on the frame. So that one wire put it on the bridge, then make another wire up that is screwed in to the frame someplace, then attach it to the other corner of the bridge. From there run the DC side to your lights.
Thank you so very much sir, I appreciate the help... Mike
Could you please provide a parts link to the lights and bridge rectifier?
www.amazon.com/Nilight-1260lm-Driving-Lights-Warranty/dp/B00EA0ZB7I/ref=sr_1_10?
keywords=18W+Nilight+LED+lights&qid=1577301062&sr=8-10www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Single-Phase-Bridge-Rectifier-KBPC50-10/dp/B00CFSVB7G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Uxcell+KBPC5010+single+phase+Bridge+Rectifier&qid=1577301216&sr=8-3
Hi man. Your video is good! I wonder what kind of wire should i buy for 2x 27 watt led light for my snowblower and what kind of switch do i need? Thanks
The electrical draw is so little (3A or so) 18 gauge wire would work fine. Buy an automotive toggle switch from a parts store as they are heavy duty and not likely to snap off the dash if you bump it moving the machine round.
007connecticut thanks a lot man...
Do i need a capacitor?
I thought this video was for installation for machines that was not equipped with lights.
Hey, need some advice I have an old snapper 824 series 1 snowblower. I got an LED light which I mounted to the snowblower and ran the wires to a fuse and bridge rectifier. The LED light comes on for about 15-20 seconds then shuts off. Did some checking with the bolt meter and for. From the motor 22 volt Ac at 349 hertz? And on the dc side, it's 22 volts. Do you know if the bridge rectifier is overloaded? The fuse didn't blow and the light still works when hooked up to a 20v drill battery.
Help please.
I don't think the bridge rectifier would burn out. The voltage off of the engine is low enough. I would check all your connections again. maybe you have a short or a wire came un-done under the vibration of the machine running. You can always swap out that bride rectifier for another it's cheap enough to replace.
Check the fuse going out of the harness, I had a bad one once that did what yours did. I ended up replacing that fuse holder for another and the problem went away.
I looked over it nothing seemed loose. So I have to mount the bridge Rectifier to the frame because I have a zip-tied not touching metal. ?
@@baronftballit was working. I would use a test meter to see where the voltage stops. Fire it up and test it out of the engine, then after your fuse etc. It's something stupid. Maybe the Bridge Rectifer is bad?
So after taking everything apart again putting it back together or use the pliers to squeeze the clips onto the bridge rectifier and I replaced the Capacitor that I have for 25 V and it started working. So I’m guessing the capacitor wasn’t doing its job to keep a steady voltage and putting the light into safe mode maybe. But it fired up working three times in a row.
Thanks for your advice and thanks for what you do with your youtube channel!
Stay safe!
I have toro snowblower no battery or lights currently. Where would I find the a/c wires????
One wire is the ground, so any screw off of the frame is your negative. Look around the top of the engine were the flywheel is. There should be a wire capped off. If you have a modern engine it will be there, That would be your positive wire. Connect the 2 points with more wire and add a bridge rectifier with a LED light and when the engine is running you will have lights!
I just bought these two lights from Amazon for my snow blower.... thanks for the tip. What part of CT are you from
Will get back to you soon
I've seen on a number of posts that they also used 2200 mfd 50v capacitors wired paralle...do you think you need them....
No. I think the light is fine. Capacitors will delay the electrical current and smooth it out. On a snowblower running a light, you won't see the difference. If you are making a power supply, sure that would make the power cleaner and safer for computers etc.
Your computer monitor blinks as you use it. But your brain doesn't see it blinking. The same for LED's.
Thanks...I think people like to make things more complicated then they need to be!!!
I must have a bad pod cause I can't get a 5 or 10 Amp fuse to hold. 15 and it's good nothing getting warm I just don't understand it! Wired just as you explained! Extra ground! 2017 Ariens professional 28 with EFI. I'm pulling about 13.69 ac volts out of my yellow line coming out. I also tapped into the original wire harness for the oem light (just deleted oem light)
Test that light on a battery to see if it's any good. LEDs draw so little current, you should not be popping fuses. Something is shorting out. Maybe a bad light. If light is ok, then look at the bridge rectifier.
I see there is different size bridge rectifiers 25 amp,50 amp extra . I am guessing 25 amp is fine ?
When I cut the yellow and black wire from my headlight and install them on the rectifier the yellow is a positive and the black is a ground to the frame the other two pins are positive and negative for the light so is the black wire from the light the only ground that needs to be done thank you for this video also I hear a lot of people saying I should use 2 capacitors so there is no flickering of the light do you know where I would install them
I'm on my phone but will try to type this out. 2 wires from your original headlight are both ac. So it don't matter what color goes on the bridge. What matters is you put both those wires on the ac side of bridge. Other 2 leads on bridge is the DC + and -. This is the critical side. If you have the DC wires going to your led light backwards the light won't work. I don't use a capacitor on LED lights because your eyes don't see the flicker. Maybe if you were building a power supply or something, then the capacitor would be needed.
Let me know if this helped you
@@007connecticut this was PERFECT! now just have to decide if im still buying the ariens platinum 24 369cc blower. It only has 1 problem BUT its HUGE to me.....its a beast of a machine with a child of a gas tank! I cant believe they wouldnt put a 1.25 or 1.5 gallon tank,i keep hearing people running out of gas 1/2 way thru there driveway/a hour after working....i want a 24" tank and thought that was it with its 369cc motor! THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!
@@eddiekytia the new machines don't burn gas. Either of mine run two hrs and I don't run out. The smaller 30 platinum machine has a small? tank and I never ran dry The pro machine has a motorcycle sized tank on it. Almost too big. I guess it matters how big your walks are. Glad I helped you out!
Hey buddy you've been a big help. My brother bought me a nice quality LED it is a 20 watt nox lux and it came with a harness that has a 5 amp fuse and a switch built in at one end is a plug for the LED light which is waterproof and the other end has a little ring 4 red positive and black negative I'm assuming those are the two ends I connect to the bridge rectifier DC out all I need to know is if that is correct.... and the led is rated 10v-30v so thats fine correct?
@@eddiekytia yes sir, the red wire fits on the bridge rectifier DC + side, the black wire goes to the dc negative post on bridge rectifier.
Thank you most kindly for this video and all of your clarifications in the comments section. I'm gonna be hooking up a window regulator motor to operate my chute rotation - figuring on powering it via the single power wire from the engine that feeds the light on my snowblower. I already ordered a 20A momentary dpdt switch to operate the motor, and haven't ordered yet, but had picked out a 25 Amp - 400 volt bridge rectifier, and a 20 Amp inline fuse to go before the rectifier - does that all sound feasible to you, or would you change out any of those components in order to wire up the motor? I noticed the rectifier you purchased was a 50 Amp - 1,000 volt unit...just wondering if I need to go with a higher amperage rectifier also, due to the motor likely drawing more current than the LED's you're using? Thanks for any input you might have on this.
I guess the rectifier will safely convert what is rated on it before burning up. They say they get hot, but just running lights it don't get warm at all. Your fuse might be bigger than you need. You need to know wattage from what your drawing and voltage. Watt divided by voltage is the fuse size (amps) For example your motor draws 40 watts and your lights draw 20, 60 total. 60 divided by 12 is 5A (so you need a fuse 1 bigger say 10A fuse).
Everything should be marked what the wattage is. Then you know your 12-14V on the system so it's easy to know the fuse size needed. Thanks for watching!
@@DEEPMOODYPURPLEBLUES Maybe google the motor brand to get an idea what it draws. If you have a volt meter hook it up to the snowblower to see what max voltage AC is. I bet around 14 or so.
Remember the machine only puts out X amount of voltage. So the worst case is the motor will turn slow or the lights dim when you flip the switch. I don't believe you can burn out anything. But I could be wrong.
Option 2 is to hook up a small 12V battery on the back side of the bucket and you will have all the power you need to run the items you want.
I enjoy messing with machines. It's a hobby of mine. It keeps me out of jail... LOL
@@007connecticut Lol...I hear ya there! I have a TBI, so sometimes this kinda stuff is quite challenging for me to grasp, but it is kinda therapeutic at the same time, and helps keep our family afloat. So, if I decide to go this route, aside from going with a 10A fuse instead, you think the bridge rectifier would likely suit this project, albeit with the possible dimming of the light or slow operation of the motor? Would opting for the rectifier you're using make any difference in my case?
@@DEEPMOODYPURPLEBLUES Not knowing the wattage of the motor I just don't know for certain. But get the bridge rectifier I bought and wire the lights up to it. Then run another set of wires from the DC side and try the motor. I have the hand warmers and a pair of lights and everything runs fine on both my machines. The hand warmers draw current, anything that generates heat uses a lot of electricity. I bet it will work fine. It's only a motor once it spins there is no load on it providing the chute spins freely.
@@007connecticut Will do. Thanks again for all your help and patience with my questions! I'll update you and or post a video of the finished project if it comes to fruition. The postal service "lost" the dpdt switch that was supposedly delivered today, so I'm hampered at the moment until I straighten that out. Take care.
Nice modification. Can we see them on? Maybe with low daylight?
I don't know how good this camera is at night, but I will try it soon. :)
Great video. I'm running into an issue. I have a craftsman snowblower with a Tecumseh engine. It did not come with a light but has the yellow wire hanging down by the starter - I used that and grounded to the frame. I used the same light and rectifier as you and wired exactly as you have but when I turn on the switch the light blows out immediately. Any idea what could be causing this issue?
is it a 12 volt light? The rectifier won't run backwards so that is wired correctly. The light also won't work backwards so that is wired correctly.
Maybe you have a loose wire somewhere or your ground wire is dirty. Clean the screw that goes to the frame. Polish it bright then reattach the wire.
The engine only puts out so much AC voltage so you can't over drive the electrical system. Only thing will happen is the lights will dim if the voltage or current is too low.
@@007connecticut Thank you for the reply. Yes. The light is exactly the same Nilight you have in the video and I used the same bridge rectifier as well. The ground wire is new and connection is clean. I have a switch wired in. When I turn on the switch the light goes on for a second and appears to have burned out. When I try connecting the light to a 12 volt battery - nothing. Not sure what could be shorting out the light.
Maybe it's a defective light? try another light to see if it cuts out like the one is now.
@007connecticut
Great video
I have the 824E Tecumseh 8hp (I believe) with electric start and without existing factory light. I want to do this modification. I searched everywhere for a positive wire on the machine and can only find the negative wire to the kill switch. Can you please help me with where to wire my lights? Thanks
Some engines have a power lead coming out of the flywheel cover of the engine. It will be just 1 wire (the other is the ground to the frame of the machine)
If you can't find the ac wire capped off the only other easy option is to add a small tractor battery / battery box to the machine like I did on my newer video here ruclips.net/video/1AyQioFYUfM/видео.html
007connecticut Thanks for taking the time to reply. The only exposed wire is a green ground wire and it links to the kill switch. I saw your video with the battery, but I don’t want to go that route. I will keep searching on how to add an accessory wire. I don’t mind having to do take apart the flywheel housing or remove the starter. I just need to know where to tie in to the system. Thanks
@@agbrown308 Look on donyboys channel. He is a small engine mechanic in Canada where he works a lot on Tecumseh engines. If anyone would know he would.
007connecticut Ok thanks. I actually wrote him as well and waiting to see if he responds.
im planing get a husqvarna ST427 a 369cc 17hp27'' or a husqvarna ST430 414cc 20hp 30'' or a ST430T 420cc 21hp30'' with a key start wich has a battery to add lights
Watching you work is like watching water evaporate. And there's something about your voice that makes me want to hammer some long ass drill bits into ear of my ear drums.
I see some people use capacitors in conjunction with the rectifier. Why did you choose to leave it out or should it be used?
I don't see any flicker. So I leave it out. IMHO you don't to waste your time for a light. If you were making a power supply or powering a radio with delicate electronics then yes you need a capacitor in line to smooth out the current. Look down my video channel I fire it up in my garage at night (someone wanted to know how bright the led lights are or something) so I made a quick video to help that guy out, There is no flicker on either of my snowblowers using this led light.
ruclips.net/video/_l4AVfsPqz4/видео.html
@@007connecticut Thank you, I appreciate you getting back to me so soon. Excellent video!
@@robertphillips3992 The only thing I could think of is a snowblower engine is running slightly faster than a typical lawn mower engine, that might be enough to minimize the flicker in a led light? so you don't see it with your eyes. I doubt the cheap lights I use are the reason.
Other videos say you need capacitors on the LEDs. I hope that's not true. I think I can find a rectifier in an old power supply.
And Hello from Maine.
My family came from Maine. I want to go back. You don't need capacitors running at full RPM. Yes at idle the lights blink. I don't see the lights blinking at full RPM. Capacitors smooth out the amps running thru a radio or something that needs a nice steady current flow. A $10 Led light would care less. Put one in line if you want but I don't see the need for it on a snowblower. Thanks for watching!
Sorry for the confusion... if mine does have a 12v battery, can I skip the rectifier? So confusing :)
If you have a 12v battery you don't need a rectifier. Just wire your lights red to + battery and black to frame. Easy! The bridge Rectifier is for machines that produce AC voltage out of the motor windings.
Sir ? The factory light, did uou just paint it gloss black or is that a wrap in black ?
I painted it black
My Snow Blower Didn’t Come With Any Lights So How Can Hook In Light On To It ?
Look on your engine if you have 1 wire hanging out near the flywheel. If you have a wire that is your power. The frame of the machine is your ground. If no wire, than the easiest way is to add a battery somewhere on your machine for your lights. Last year or 2 years ago I added a 12 volt battery to that machine for more lights look at my channel and you will find out how I did it to give yourself ideas on what I did.
@@007connecticut Thank You For Being So Help Ful I’m Going To Do That
Orange caps are "wire Nuts". What if I don't have any lights on my snow blower. I need to ask you when I order these lights, what do I ask for. You have a good video, I will need to check my Ariens 24 inch. This is very Helpful.
Some snowblower engines without lights still have a wire coming out of the engine. If you have a wire coming out of your engine that is capped off, you still can put LED lights on your machine. Create one wire that connects to the frame, the other is the wire sticking out of the cover. Now you have 2 wires a positive and a negative lead.
Dumb question: Why is a rectifier necessary? The engine already puts out DC voltage hence the 1156 automotive bulb in the OEM headlight.
No. The engine coils put out 12V AC current. The halogen bulb will work on AC or DC current.
But A LED (light emitting diode) won't work on AC. Well they will work but flicker on and off as the current changes on the AC line. That's why I had to wire in the bridge. This is very easy to test this. Put a volt meter on your blower ( without a battery) and you will see the meter only reads AC voltage. :)
007connecticut
Good point. Thanks for the tip!
You dont need a rectifier just brake the circuit and ground it to the chassis
ragingbullhcwf e
You have inspired me to add a LED light to my snowblower. It did not come with a light. It is an MTD with a single wire coming out of the engine. From a response you gave to an earlier comment, I think I need to run that wire to a fuse, then from the fuse to one of the AC prongs on the bridge rectifier. For the other AC prong on the rectifier, I need to run a wire from it to a grounding screw. Then after that I believe I need to run a wire from the rectifier's DC positive to the red wire of my LED. Do I have it right up to this point?
That leaves me with the DC negative prong and the black wire on the LED. I don't know if I need to run a wire from the rectifier's DC negative prong to the black wire of the LED or if I can just ground the rectifier's DC negative prong to a grounding screw and then also ground the LED black wire to its own grounding screw. If grounding them both separately will work, that will save some work because I'm adding the LED to the front of my snowblower and I'm mounting the rectifier in the back between the handlebars to keep it dry and close to the switch. If I don't need to run the negative all the way to the front, I'll ground to rectifier close to where it is mounted and also ground the LED close to where it is mounted. (I realize I need to run the positive wire up to the LED, but I want to avoid running the second wire if possible.)
I would appreciate any insight you can provide.
Yes you have it exactly.
Before you start, simply connect a volt meter (set on AC) to the wire coming off of the engine, then connect the other lead of the meter to a screw on the machine, If you have power, then you can connect your lights.
Ground (screw on machine) to bridge AC side. Other wire from engine to bridge AC side.
Then both DC prongs out of the bridge go to your LED light.
OK. I'll give it a try. Thank you!
Hmm. After reading your second reply, I'm a little confused. I interpreted your first response to mean that I could use separate grounding screws for the black LED wire and the bridge DC negative prong. I'm reading your second reply to mean that I must connect the bridge DC negative to the black LED wire and that I cannot ground them separately. Is that right or would either way work?
Johnny OnTheSpot I'm on my phone now so if you don't understand my short response, I will write back in detail. DC positive out of rectifier and DC negative out of rectifier attach to LED light. on AC side of rectifier, snowblower wire connects to AC and a ground wire from machine attached to other AC prong on AC side of rectifier.
First test of my Snow Joe was a massive blizzard that dropped 20+ inches of snow with drifts well over 3ft. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxoHYZbq5g9fkcAtinlTqstNlje-UQkCHN This snow thrower is definitely not designed for this much snow but it powered through it. We did have to knock down taller drifts with a shovel and at times the chute was awkward because snow banks were much higher than it could throw, but still much easier than shoveling. The plus side of the small size is the maneuverability. Easy to lift up to walkways and works in tight spaces near cars. Highly recommend.Note: after assembling it started but did not turn. The belt wasn't in place. Easy fix.
I have an Ariens 1128 Pro machine. Is it worth tapping into the headlight circuit built in (and how would I connect it through that) or is it better to connect it through the battery, and how best would you connect it to the battery?
If you have a 12v battery on the machine currently then that's the easiest way because you don't need the Bridge rectifier, The Bridge rectifier converts AC (off the engine) to DC.
Have anyone noticed that CUB CADET handle is a bit low makes you walk leaning down
for people 6 foot and higher, I wish there was adjustment to make it
higher.
They say the Honda machines are the same way...
I have a JD TRS26, I stand 6'6" and their handlebars are perfect height. I had an old Toro 521 & 421 and their handlebars were a little shorter. Also, I really like not having to reach down to adjust the chute. Everything is controlled from the handlebars now.
What about adding a light to a snowblower that has no light to begin with,
See on your engine if there is a wire coming out of it and it's capped off. Then you can add a light to it easily. That wire is your positive, the chassis of the machine is your negative wire. If there is no wire you can attach a 12v lawnmower battery to the blower housing, then just attach a light straight off your battery.
I don't want to be one of those guys, wire nuts are never supposed to be used on mobile applications. They are made just for stationary purposes. The MECP book says to only use crimps, or solder with dielectric grease and heat dhrink on the crimp, and heart shrink on the solder. I know that 95% of the time wire nuts work for a long time But think if say 1000 people use wire nuts then 50 people will have a failure. and one that could cause a fire. In the automotive world it's strictly solder, or crimp. I hope I don't sound design like a know it all, just that I've actually had an electrical fire in my power wagon because of wire nuts.
Thanks for your video, and your time.
You are experienced with this so I'm not going to defend my ways.
I always pull the wire to make sure it's together and secure, then I tape up the wire nut to keep it there. I never had problems doing it this way. Soldering under a dash is always better but found it over kill sometimes. Thanks for watching my video.
@007
Sorry to clutter up your comment board. I have no idea what Fearless' problem is. He has a bunch of really normal videos posted, and looks and sounds like a normal, rational adult. But then he comes to other peoples boards and gets belligerent picking fights. Idk, glad he doesn't live near me.
@ 5:35 I hear the oil burner turning on! Can you do a video on the furnace?
The heater is above the rear door. The piping runs across the wall near the ceiling then down the wall into the basement and it's connected to the furnace, The furnace has 3 zones, 2 for the house and 1 for the garage. I have a cold temp thermostat in the garage and I set it year round at 40F if I'm in there I turn it up to 68F so I can play with the truck, play on the mill. or mess with the snow blowers. You have good ears, I thought I turned it down so it wouldn't come on!
007connecticut Is the furnace a forced air or water boiler?
It's an oil fired boiler. So water is heated and the hot water goes thru the radiator and that heats the house or garage.
007connecticut Is it a zoned system?
Yea but what if it doesn't take have a headlamp to begin with, damn it
If it does not have a headlight, take the 12V battery from your garden tractor.
Skip the convertor and wire with switch. I don't use a fuse.
I use that plus I adapted an old 12V drill to run the chute from side to side using a DPDT toggle switch. I have a rotating Blue light on top of the canopy (a fantastic addition) and a HCSL set of leds for red light at the back, also on top of the canopy.
Hello 007connecticut - I found your video very interesting. I am going to do this on my 9 H.P. Craftsman Snow Thrower. I have a 12 volt halogen light bulb in there now. Could you tell me what are my limitations for the LED light/lights, that is, how big or how many watts of led lighting can I use?
It all depends on the output coils of your engine. I'd assume your halogen light is 35 watts, so 2 18 watt LED lights should work fine as the wattage is only 1 watt more for for the new lights. The new Briggs and Statton engines put out around 80 watts of power. The older tecumseh engines put out less, but still the two LEDs will work fine.
I have a Briggs and Stratton Engine Snow Series 11.50 - 250 CC snow thrower, not sure if that qualifies for 80 watts of power. Will shoot for two 18 watt lights, I think that should be better than my current halogen bulb CEC1295
It's going to awesome when you get it wired up! Those 18 watt LEDS are bright.
What gauge wire did you use?
LEDs draw so little current you can use smaller than 18g. But I used 18gauge because I had a roll of it on my bench. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the quick reply and awesome video!
You left out one key piece of info.
Your snow machine must already have a conventional headlight and alternator preinstalled from the manufacturer.
The old Tecumseh Snow Kings had an inexpensive little alternator capped on top of the recoil. If your machine didn't have one, it was a cheap, easy kit with an alternator and light. It fit 99% of the 2 stage snow blowers. But all these new Chinese engines, though. Who knows. I just bought a new MTD snow machine with some Chinese bastard engine I never heard of. Up til 10 years ago it would have been a Tecumseh made in Wisconsin or Ohio.
I just replaced the old 1156 Incadescent bulb that was in my snowblowers headlight with an LED bulb. Did not have to add other lights or any hardware.
The new bulb goes right in where the old bulb was on my snapper with a Tecumseh 8 hp engine.
I do not notice any flicker or any issues other than the vibration already made by the machine. Its a 400 Lumen natural white LED. It worked fine.
The bulb has a 30,000 hour lifespan. Unless a flicker does start or if the bulb burns out prematurely I wont have to add a rectifier or capacitor/fuse.
The bulb should last longer than the lifespan of the machine.
The bulb was $12.95
Now I can see everything very clear and bright.
www.superbrightleds.com
www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1156-led-bulb-27-smd-led-tower-ba15s-retrofit/2622/
Fearless p
Electrical tape is far from being waterproof
couldnt anything else to complain about?
@@earthenergyhex Hmmm 3 years ago but okay, i would rather use hockey tape
Wire nuts are for household 110 240 ac inside dry walls. Using these on a motive application in the weather is a guaranteed repeat failure If you live in the shit I do 6 months salt brine.Sealed soldered or crimped is the only way. May work for you not for me. Just saying.
just do it. you talk a lot.
All this time used showing how to use a Mariette, electric tape, cut wire, why use a 5 amp fuse, etc. and NO time spent showing the actual installation of the wires on the posts, connecting the lights, installing on the blower/ tractor.... you called it both, or showing how it looks as the job progresses, etc. Poor incomplete video. Don't give up your day job.
Ever consider that its not going to be the same for different makes and even models within the same make? If he did it that way all you'd learn is how to do it on his blower.