I have done most of my repairs myself, and THIS IS BY FAR the best DIY video on RUclips I have ever seen. I especially like how you show the magic trick to getting the hub off. Great Video!
These are the type of videos that make watching RUclips worth while. You can see how methodical this mechanic is. I have just had my ass handed to me on a 2001 Dodge 2500 that was rusted over so bad that heat along with pullers and really big hammers could not get this apart. I cut the ball joints with a torch and pulled the whole assembly out and took the unit to a friends shop and used a 30 ton press to separate the hub and backing plate. I suggest that you look at the front end first and if you see rust let someone you don't like do the job, LOL FANTASTIC VIDEO JT
Thanks, there are some good techs out there if you ask around. I have been blessed to work with a few. Also a few that were not such a blessing to work with. haha. Take care
Great to see someone doing it properly. Great camera work and lighting. I’m about to do this whole procedure on my 98 2500 and my 2005 3500 and I’m confident after watching your video.
Just popped out the ball joints on my ‘01 Dodge 2500 . Can’t thank you enough for the help. I used the OTC 7249 kit and I also used the Astro 7868 adapter kit. Also appreciate all the tips you throw in to help speed things up. I’ve realized how inefficient I’ve been after watching your vids.
After watching I did my 2001 Dodge excluding tie rods with SPACER parts as well new hubs,new axle joins replaced in engineering.I like to work on clean car so I pressure wash everything before start unassembling. 2 days job in front of the house at my age of 70. Enjoy you video and inspiration to do it my self.
@@ThecardoctorTV great video, I just did this job, 6 months ago, due to a camber issue, thought I had issue taken care of, DID NOT!! IM in dire need of advice on moogs adjustable ball joints. My truck is 05 3500 dodge, I have been told there is no camber adjustment on these trucks.? Do these adjustable (offset ) Ball joints cure the problem or is it a waste of time?
This reply is quite a few years after you made this video and I noticed this video has been reviewed over 350,000 times. I didn't think anyone would want to take the time do do a detailed, in real time video of rebuilding the front end of a 4x4 Dodge. I own a 2012 dually and just noticed my front tires wearing badly on the outer and inner sides of the tread. Got a quote from a mechanic for $16-$1800 for all the work and parts. I checked on the cost of parts and it appears the shop is getting about 2/3"s of the cost in labor. Now I can see why. This is pretty labor intensive. I'm 70 years old this year and my younger brother only a year and a half younger has said he will help me do this whole job. Even after watching your video I'm reluctant to do it but if I can save $1200, I think I'm going to go for it after watching your "in real time video. I've never done anything this comprehensive before so it'll be a real learning experience. But once we start, unless I want to get a tow truck to take it to the shop, we're committed. Thank you for taking the time to do a very well thought out video and without a camera man to boot.
I got quoted $1,150 for all four ball joints, front alignment and two used tires to be mounted and balanced on my ‘04 Ram 1500...I just decided to do it myself with help from this video! Thanks!
Really, really good video. I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 with the Cummins and I've added this to my RUclips playlist. When the time comes, I'll have this video playing on my laptop as I do the work. Thank you! 👍
This should be required “reading” for Dodge 4wd owners. Very well done & informative for both customers & mechanics. Thanks for sharing the tool info (hub puller, press & adaptors).
very informational video. I own 1996 Dodge RAM 3500 Dually. It's been giving me constant death wobble and I am considering replacing all front end parts. This video really helps me tackling these type of work. Great Job and I appreciate it.
Video helped me too! Did the ball joints and bearings last weekend. I was one of the luck ones that used the power steering method to remove the hub assembly and it worked like a champ. Also, I had the same issue getting the boot on the lower ball joint. I just ended up using one of the cups from the ball joint press and rubber mallet...lightly. It popped those boots on with about 4 taps. Thanks again for walking us through it, excellent work!
Thanks for the video. I have my 06 2500 on jack stands right now. I took a quick attempt to remove the tie rods last night with no luck trying a pickle fork and regular size hammer. Going to try again today with a 32oz hammer and see if I can get them loose, hitting the sides of the tie rods. One other things, I went by harbor freight and picked up an electric impact wrench for $32, the best investment ever. Taking apart my truck was so easy!
This is awesome stuff! One thing I did when I replaced my first hub assembly was I oriented the hub incorrectly to where the ABS slot was facing forward instead of up. Just something for DIY guys to remember when dealing with the hub assembly!
Impressive video. I’ve referenced it a hundred times doing the rebuild of my 2005 2500 diesel. I replaced everything since I had the whole thing apart. Here were the unexpected problems: My truck had a stint on the sea coast and everything was really stuck after 14 years of use. I bent the front axle unjoint yokes pressing out the joints and had to replace both axles. The ball joints were stuck so bad I bent the tool getting them out. The hubs were stuck but, fortunately, the socket-extension-powersteering trick successfully pushed the hubs loose. This project has been a real bear but I figure I’ve saved myself about $3 grand. Thanks so much for the guidance!
Did you replace the steering stabilizer and the tie rods too? What about the control arms? Im not sure what all is worth changing while i have it apart
Great video , I am in the middle of doing this job on my son's truck , refreshing my memory from when I put universals in my 97 1500 ....You made it look too easy ....
At 25.20 I saw the Hitman,,, This is a pro doing what pro's do. High quality work! The flex head 1/2 ratchet and torque wrench is really a tool that should be used on this job and any other that needs the flexibility of movement. That 3/4 air and heavy impact is no lie either. A professional uses "excessive force" to get the job done"mechanically speaking". Pay attention novice installers, this man knows his business! Thanks CAR DOCTOR for the great instruction!
I just wanted to thank you for this video. You are a true PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC and this is an excellent video showing not only your skills, but a great teaching tool. With this said, I've got a 1999 Dodge RAM 2500 but its a 2-wheel drive and I went through a special kind of Hell. Its got different Lower Control Arms from a 4WD and it has Upper Control Arms which this 4WD truck doesn't have. On my Upper Control Arm there is a Pivot Bar with 1 Bushing at each end and a Ball Joint. 2 Bolts go through the Pivot Arm and is used to adjust the Caster/Camber or remove the Upper Control Arm from the vehicle. After removing the Brake Caliper and tying it off, one then has to remove the brake rotor which has 2 axle bearings inside of it. Next, the Steering Knuckle with Axle attached. This is done by knocking out the Tie Rod End Ball Joint from the right side of the Steering Knuckle. Not easy so a Pickle Fork or a Ball Joint Remover tool is necessary and most of the time it will destroy the Tie Rod End's ball joint. Unscrewing the 2 nuts which hold the Upper Control Arm lets one just pull it out to remove it from the vehicle. I noticed my bushings were old and worn (189,000 miles on the truck) so I decided to replace them. Bought Moog Bushings and Moog Ball Joints. I had to burn and cut out the old bushings (a kind of special Hell) and I bought the 2 cheap press kits from Harbor Freight and they were total crap. They didn't even fit the Ball Joints for either Control Arm... and after reading the manual (not the ad on the box which wasn't specific) I noted they weren't for my model truck. I tried renting kits from all of the Auto stores here in my (Big) city but they would work only for certain cars and mostly little Japanese trucks. I then used your recommendation and bought the OTC Ball Joint press kit which is the King of Ball Joint presses. I used it to press in ONE (1) bushing into the Upper Control Arm and slipped in the Pivot Arm then because one cannot use any Ball Joint Press on the last bushing... I pounded it in with a heavy piece of pipe. Wow! I thought I'd break my arm! I did the same on the 2nd Upper Control Arm but pounded the 2nd bushing so hard I ruined the Control Arm. The bushing would just slide out. Therefore I bought 2 complete Upper Control Arms on eBay and returned the Moog Bushings and Ball Joints for a refund. The new Upper Control Arms came with bushings already pressed in and a permanently greased Ball Joint already pressed in. When I compared them to my OEM/Mopar Control Arm's... I couldn't tell the difference. Honestly. The stamped metal was exactly the same as was the metal thickness and quality. Same for the Bushings around the Pivot Bar and the Ball Joints. What was nice is the price was MUCH less expensive than the bushings and ball joints I had bought at the auto store. I did press in Moog Ball Joints into the Lower Control Arms. I also bought a complete set of Inner and Outer Tie-Rod's w/Ball Joints already installed, new Pittman Arm and Idler Arm which were OEM quality but not Mopar. Now I'm sitting on a one-time use OTC Ball Joint Kit which cost me $328.00. It would have been much cheaper (and MUCH, MUCH less headache and work) to have purchased both Upper and Lower Control arms with bushings and ball joints already pressed in than do all of this pressing myself! On a 4x4 like the one you are working on, it seems much easier as you're only pressing Ball Joints into the Steering Knuckle. My Steering Knuckle slips up into the Lower Control Arm then the Upper Control Arm. Thanks for the video and your excellent type of humor. Me? I'll NEVER do this again... or I'll buy a 4x4 next time. ; -)
I'm not sure if I need balls joints or what for my 95 dodge ram 5.2 w/ 224k miles I purchased cheap used earlier this year, the steering wheel is a bit loose, I may try this Rock Solid Ram fix to try and eliminate that before working on front end stuff, I didn't even know you could get stuff with the ball joints already pressed in, that seems like it'd make the job a million times easier, I'll definitely look around for some already pressed in if I do need front end stuff, this bushing in the steering column the Rock Solid Ram thing fixes apparently fixes 95% of steering wheel play alone from what I've read before, many people commented saying they wonder over the years how many people were duped into buying front end stuff like ball joints,etc when that bushing wearing out from the factory is the problem in the 2nd gen rams at least. I'm not in a huge hurry, I don't put very many miles per year on a vehicle anyway, just something to get me around town and to the grocery store occasionally,etc, truth be told if it would be extremely expensive to totally fix the steering/front end I'd likely look for a gently used truck(I really wouldn't mind an 88-98 chevy/gmc, I'm partial to their look on the gmt400) or car and try to sell the ram for what I could, it gets me from point A to B reliably, but, it does have quite a few miles on it, and we all know the infamous auto trans issues these trucks have, as well as the very brittle dashboard plastic resulting in me having a nonexistent dashboard lol. There's other gremlins too(like electric locks not working and having no radio, and probably needing an o2 sensor due to bad mpg or maybe map sensor) but I can sorta forgive them due to the trucks age and cheap price I paid for it. Basically, I don't wanna sink a fortune into essentially a 22 year old gas guzzler with its share of well known design flaws and existing issues, and me having absolutely no history on what repairs, if any, previous owners did or didn't do over the years sadly. The magnum engines were known to last a long time, but apparently have a reputation for getting cracked heads which will eat up coolant many said when I read online before. Anyway, sorry for the bit of a ramble, just contemplating if stuff is worth fixing from an average joe's perspective on a budget lol
OMG, you have done the best work/video on this particular topic, I have a 2009 mega cab that requires ball joints replacement so now I know how to get it done. Awesome, Awesome for sure... thank God for folks like you!!!!
AMAZING FROM BEGINNING TO END, THERES GOOD PEOPLE IN THIS WORLD WILLING TO SHARE THEIR KNOWLEDGE THATS THE REASON THE WORLD WILL SURVIVE, THANK YOU SIR FOR SUCH A GREAT VIDEO
Amazed! Planning to do this myself and now have the confidence thanks to your video. Excellent and complete. Planning to take the u-joints in to a machine shop since they have a press way bigger than mine.
I always like to use Anti seize when putting in Ball Joints and Wheel Bearings ETC. Wheel Bearings where it does into the hub, really helps. But I know a lot of Mechanics don't do that for some reason or another. It sure helps out the next Guy that has to take it apart!. Great video by the way. Thanks for sharing...
Great Video!! Need upper and lower ball joints on my 2002 Ram 2500 but didn't know what was involved now I sure do!! I now know what parts and also what tools and special tools and supplies I will need to complete the job. Wish you were located closer to me as I would sure use you to complete the job. Mechanics such as you are a disappearing breed. Thanks Again!
Wow! You rock! I would travel many miles to have YOU work on my 2014 Ram! Your meticulous in your work! Your attention to detail equals top of the line repairs! Too bad you don't live in East Texas!
Thanks for the video. I took a look at my front end and thought shouldn't be too bad. Came across your video and checked it out. Way easier than I thought. Thank you very much.
Amazing video Sir! Thank you kindly for taking the time to produce it and to show your tips and tricks. It’s so nice to see a true craftsman at work. I just stumbled across your channel trying to find general info on my 96 2500 for ball joint replacement, very glad I did. You got one more subscriber and I look forward to watching your other videos. Thanks again and take care!!
Excellent Video. Although I have a 98' 1500 2wd I bought 2 years ago, you Video and your presentation presents some pretty clear and understandable information. I most appreciate your attention to professional details, ie torque secs. Lighting and Camera perspective Excellent. Have subscribed and will be looking at channel for more useful videos.👍👍👍
Doctor , you are the beat I've seen in a long time. You know your business that's for sure. I've got a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 that need the same kind of work so now I know what they have to do, I wish you could fix my truck. You are Great my friend and you made a great video.
Nice job Doc. Its prolly going to take me 4 times the amount of time it took you 😀 I was surprised you didn't mention the track bar joints, those seem to wear out much faster than anything else, for me at least. Keep on wrenching.
Did this repair on my 1999 2WD Ram 1500. Ball joints came off easier than going on. If you don't have a powerful impact gun you may want to re-think doing it. Used a Craftsman 18" breaker bar with a 4' cheater pipe and they still barely went in. Specially the lower ones.
I didn't know Tom Hanks could turn wrenches!!! Hahaha good vid man I'm doing some ball joints tomorrow and it always helps to go through the process prior to.
Highly appreciate the video! Replacing my 2001 dodges front end and this video will be a tremendous help, even ordered all moog parts lol. Thanks again
That was a well done instructional video. It would be nice if it was always this easy. If you live in the rust belt, the wheel bearing housing will probably be frozen to the steering knuckle. The puller will remove the hub and the outside bearing, leaving the inside bearing and housing in the steering knuckle. You'll have to press the wheel bearing housing out of the steering knuckle and replace the wheel bearings or buy a complete hub and bearing assembly.
Just recently did all that same repairs to my 2003 dodge ram 2500. Did all the steps as you did, however at 412,000 miles the hubs, ball joints, and u-joints at the front hubs were not easy at all. Enjoyed your video.
It's great to see a pro in action, using systematic methods with the right tools. As an added bonus you've got some good camera skills, too. As a long term subscriber, the only request I will make is to ask you to spend a little more camera time on how you make the diagnosis. Learning how to make the diagnosis is always the biggest challenge.
AWESOME VIDEO. Will favorite for working on my dodge 2500 in the future. Not to be safety nut but safety glasses are key man. I've been nagged to use them everyday working at Ryder and they actually have come in handy a few times. never know when something is going to let loose using those impact tools.
Wish you were closer (So CA). You come across as the kind of patient, conscientious professional we all hope we would be fortunate to have work on our vehicles. It's such a crap shoot these days with mechanics. We count on them to know their stuff, but unfortunately many turn out to be boneheads.
If you make it down to Maui, I owe you a beer for the great video! Heads up on protecting and being aware of the axle seal would be the only addition I've got- thanks for the great vid!
I pop the hub off by backing the bolts out a 1/4 inch, then stick a socket backwards against one bolt and part of the differential. Using the power steering, I turn the wheels to push the bolt much like a portapower.
GREAT VIDEO!! I was going to attempt the repair by myself but don't have the necessary tools. Guess I will take it to the shop for the work. At my age the tools will never never be used again. Thanks for the video, extremely informational.
In my case, one of the knuckle holes was out of round and wallowed out. If the tapered knuckle holes are too large or out of round, the ball joint won't seat in the correct position... EMF, (a ball joint vendor), has a vid showing how to check for this.Thanks for your video! Have a great day !
I just did this same thing at the shop I work at the only thing I did different is the ball joints was put in the freezer. When the old one is out I get the new one out of the freezer and it goes in very easy
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
I have done most of my repairs myself, and THIS IS BY FAR the best DIY video on RUclips I have ever seen. I especially like how you show the magic trick to getting the hub off. Great Video!
@@eds.9086 thank you so much.
These are the type of videos that make watching RUclips worth while. You can see how methodical this mechanic is. I have just had my ass handed to me on a 2001 Dodge 2500 that was rusted over so bad that heat along with pullers and really big hammers could not get this apart. I cut the ball joints with a torch and pulled the whole assembly out and took the unit to a friends shop and used a 30 ton press to separate the hub and backing plate. I suggest that you look at the front end first and if you see rust let someone you don't like do the job, LOL FANTASTIC VIDEO JT
You are a flipping pro. You can work on my vehicles anytime. Great job. People like you are hard to find these days. Thanks for the video.
Thanks, there are some good techs out there if you ask around. I have been blessed to work with a few. Also a few that were not such a blessing to work with. haha. Take care
Great to see someone doing it properly. Great camera work and lighting. I’m about to do this whole procedure on my 98 2500 and my 2005 3500 and I’m confident after watching your video.
Just popped out the ball joints on my ‘01 Dodge 2500 . Can’t thank you enough for the help. I used the OTC 7249 kit and I also used the Astro 7868 adapter kit. Also appreciate all the tips you throw in to help speed things up. I’ve realized how inefficient I’ve been after watching your vids.
After watching I did my 2001 Dodge excluding tie rods with SPACER parts as well new hubs,new axle joins replaced in engineering.I like to work on clean car so I pressure wash everything before start unassembling. 2 days job in front of the house at my age of 70. Enjoy you video and inspiration to do it my self.
I am so glad my video gave you the inspiration and confidence to do it yourself. Blessings to you!
@@ThecardoctorTV great video, I just did this job, 6 months ago, due to a camber issue, thought I had issue taken care of, DID NOT!! IM in dire need of advice on moogs adjustable ball joints. My truck is 05 3500 dodge, I have been told there is no camber adjustment on these trucks.? Do these adjustable (offset ) Ball joints cure the problem or is it a waste of time?
This reply is quite a few years after you made this video and I noticed this video has been reviewed over 350,000 times. I didn't think anyone would want to take the time do do a detailed, in real time video of rebuilding the front end of a 4x4 Dodge. I own a 2012 dually and just noticed my front tires wearing badly on the outer and inner sides of the tread. Got a quote from a mechanic for $16-$1800 for all the work and parts. I checked on the cost of parts and it appears the shop is getting about 2/3"s of the cost in labor. Now I can see why. This is pretty labor intensive. I'm 70 years old this year and my younger brother only a year and a half younger has said he will help me do this whole job. Even after watching your video I'm reluctant to do it but if I can save $1200, I think I'm going to go for it after watching your "in real time video. I've never done anything this comprehensive before so it'll be a real learning experience. But once we start, unless I want to get a tow truck to take it to the shop, we're committed. Thank you for taking the time to do a very well thought out video and without a camera man to boot.
I got quoted $1,150 for all four ball joints, front alignment and two used tires to be mounted and balanced on my ‘04 Ram 1500...I just decided to do it myself with help from this video! Thanks!
Very nice! With the savings you could get a nice set of 4 tires and have enough left over to send me a six pack...haha, just kidding. Blessings
One of the best, if not THE best how to video on RUclips. I wish I could like it twice.
Really, really good video. I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 with the Cummins and I've added this to my RUclips playlist. When the time comes, I'll have this video playing on my laptop as I do the work. Thank you! 👍
Excellent!
Finally a video where the work and video quality are top notch!
You couldn't for asked for a better video than this! Great tutorial here! A very professional and well done job! Thank you!
This should be required “reading” for Dodge 4wd owners. Very well done & informative for both customers & mechanics. Thanks for sharing the tool info (hub puller, press & adaptors).
very informational video. I own 1996 Dodge RAM 3500 Dually. It's been giving me constant death wobble and I am considering replacing all front end parts. This video really helps me tackling these type of work. Great Job and I appreciate it.
Just did my ball joints, this video really helped, thank you!
Video helped me too! Did the ball joints and bearings last weekend. I was one of the luck ones that used the power steering method to remove the hub assembly and it worked like a champ. Also, I had the same issue getting the boot on the lower ball joint. I just ended up using one of the cups from the ball joint press and rubber mallet...lightly. It popped those boots on with about 4 taps. Thanks again for walking us through it, excellent work!
Thank you. IM glad it helped
This is what it sounds like when your shop is a concert hall. Awesome video.
Thanks for the video. I have my 06 2500 on jack stands right now. I took a quick attempt to remove the tie rods last night with no luck trying a pickle fork and regular size hammer. Going to try again today with a 32oz hammer and see if I can get them loose, hitting the sides of the tie rods. One other things, I went by harbor freight and picked up an electric impact wrench for $32, the best investment ever. Taking apart my truck was so easy!
This is awesome stuff! One thing I did when I replaced my first hub assembly was I oriented the hub incorrectly to where the ABS slot was facing forward instead of up. Just something for DIY guys to remember when dealing with the hub assembly!
Impressive video. I’ve referenced it a hundred times doing the rebuild of my 2005 2500 diesel. I replaced everything since I had the whole thing apart.
Here were the unexpected problems: My truck had a stint on the sea coast and everything was really stuck after 14 years of use. I bent the front axle unjoint yokes pressing out the joints and had to replace both axles.
The ball joints were stuck so bad I bent the tool getting them out.
The hubs were stuck but, fortunately, the socket-extension-powersteering trick successfully pushed the hubs loose.
This project has been a real bear but I figure I’ve saved myself about $3 grand.
Thanks so much for the guidance!
Did you replace the steering stabilizer and the tie rods too? What about the control arms? Im not sure what all is worth changing while i have it apart
Don't forget about heat. Heat helps things come apart.
Thank you for putting that together. Well done, it helped the wife and I decide that our ball-joint tie rod end replacement will go to a garage.
Great video , I am in the middle of doing this job on my son's truck , refreshing my memory from when I put universals in my 97 1500 ....You made it look too easy ....
How many hours does a project like this take? What would it cost? I wanna get my truck done.
fantastic job! I watch the entire video while my wife eyed me funny the whole time. Great craftsmanship and professionalism throughout.
At 25.20 I saw the Hitman,,, This is a pro doing what pro's do. High quality work! The flex head 1/2 ratchet and torque wrench is really a tool that should be used on this job and any other that needs the flexibility of movement. That 3/4 air and heavy impact is no lie either. A professional uses "excessive force" to get the job done"mechanically speaking". Pay attention novice installers, this man knows his business!
Thanks CAR DOCTOR for the great instruction!
I just wanted to thank you for this video. You are a true PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC and this is an excellent video showing not only your skills, but a great teaching tool.
With this said, I've got a 1999 Dodge RAM 2500 but its a 2-wheel drive and I went through a special kind of Hell. Its got different Lower Control Arms from a 4WD and it has Upper Control Arms which this 4WD truck doesn't have.
On my Upper Control Arm there is a Pivot Bar with 1 Bushing at each end and a Ball Joint. 2 Bolts go through the Pivot Arm and is used to adjust the Caster/Camber or remove the Upper Control Arm from the vehicle.
After removing the Brake Caliper and tying it off, one then has to remove the brake rotor which has 2 axle bearings inside of it. Next, the Steering Knuckle with Axle attached. This is done by knocking out the Tie Rod End Ball Joint from the right side of the Steering Knuckle. Not easy so a Pickle Fork or a Ball Joint Remover tool is necessary and most of the time it will destroy the Tie Rod End's ball joint.
Unscrewing the 2 nuts which hold the Upper Control Arm lets one just pull it out to remove it from the vehicle. I noticed my bushings were old and worn (189,000 miles on the truck) so I decided to replace them. Bought Moog Bushings and Moog Ball Joints.
I had to burn and cut out the old bushings (a kind of special Hell) and I bought the 2 cheap press kits from Harbor Freight and they were total crap. They didn't even fit the Ball Joints for either Control Arm... and after reading the manual (not the ad on the box which wasn't specific) I noted they weren't for my model truck. I tried renting kits from all of the Auto stores here in my (Big) city but they would work only for certain cars and mostly little Japanese trucks. I then used your recommendation and bought the OTC Ball Joint press kit which is the King of Ball Joint presses.
I used it to press in ONE (1) bushing into the Upper Control Arm and slipped in the Pivot Arm then because one cannot use any Ball Joint Press on the last bushing... I pounded it in with a heavy piece of pipe. Wow! I thought I'd break my arm! I did the same on the 2nd Upper Control Arm but pounded the 2nd bushing so hard I ruined the Control Arm. The bushing would just slide out. Therefore I bought 2 complete Upper Control Arms on eBay
and returned the Moog Bushings and Ball Joints for a refund.
The new Upper Control Arms came with bushings already pressed in and a permanently greased Ball Joint already pressed in. When I compared them to my OEM/Mopar Control Arm's... I couldn't tell the difference. Honestly. The stamped metal was exactly the same as was the metal thickness and quality. Same for the Bushings around the Pivot Bar and the Ball Joints. What was nice is the price was MUCH less expensive than the bushings and ball joints I had bought at the auto store.
I did press in Moog Ball Joints into the Lower Control Arms. I also bought a complete set of Inner and Outer Tie-Rod's w/Ball Joints already installed, new Pittman Arm and Idler Arm which were OEM quality but not Mopar.
Now I'm sitting on a one-time use OTC Ball Joint Kit which cost me $328.00. It would have been much cheaper (and MUCH, MUCH less headache and work) to have purchased both Upper and Lower Control arms with bushings and ball joints already pressed in than do all of this pressing myself!
On a 4x4 like the one you are working on, it seems much easier as you're only pressing Ball Joints into the Steering Knuckle. My Steering Knuckle slips up into the Lower Control Arm then the Upper Control Arm.
Thanks for the video and your excellent type of humor. Me? I'll NEVER do this again... or I'll buy a 4x4 next time. ; -)
I'm not sure if I need balls joints or what for my 95 dodge ram 5.2 w/ 224k miles I purchased cheap used earlier this year, the steering wheel is a bit loose, I may try this Rock Solid Ram fix to try and eliminate that before working on front end stuff, I didn't even know you could get stuff with the ball joints already pressed in, that seems like it'd make the job a million times easier, I'll definitely look around for some already pressed in if I do need front end stuff, this bushing in the steering column the Rock Solid Ram thing fixes apparently fixes 95% of steering wheel play alone from what I've read before, many people commented saying they wonder over the years how many people were duped into buying front end stuff like ball joints,etc when that bushing wearing out from the factory is the problem in the 2nd gen rams at least. I'm not in a huge hurry, I don't put very many miles per year on a vehicle anyway, just something to get me around town and to the grocery store occasionally,etc, truth be told if it would be extremely expensive to totally fix the steering/front end I'd likely look for a gently used truck(I really wouldn't mind an 88-98 chevy/gmc, I'm partial to their look on the gmt400) or car and try to sell the ram for what I could, it gets me from point A to B reliably, but, it does have quite a few miles on it, and we all know the infamous auto trans issues these trucks have, as well as the very brittle dashboard plastic resulting in me having a nonexistent dashboard lol. There's other gremlins too(like electric locks not working and having no radio, and probably needing an o2 sensor due to bad mpg or maybe map sensor) but I can sorta forgive them due to the trucks age and cheap price I paid for it. Basically, I don't wanna sink a fortune into essentially a 22 year old gas guzzler with its share of well known design flaws and existing issues, and me having absolutely no history on what repairs, if any, previous owners did or didn't do over the years sadly. The magnum engines were known to last a long time, but apparently have a reputation for getting cracked heads which will eat up coolant many said when I read online before. Anyway, sorry for the bit of a ramble, just contemplating if stuff is worth fixing from an average joe's perspective on a budget lol
OMG, you have done the best work/video on this particular topic, I have a 2009 mega cab that requires ball joints replacement so now I know how to get it done. Awesome, Awesome for sure... thank God for folks like you!!!!
You are the KING! Half the time you were holding the camera (and no goof ball jokes).
Very Down to Earth Presentation. Helpful in many ways as I tackle these mechanical tasks.
You are hands down the best! Very clear an thourough!
AMAZING FROM BEGINNING TO END, THERES GOOD PEOPLE IN THIS WORLD WILLING TO SHARE THEIR KNOWLEDGE THATS THE REASON THE WORLD WILL SURVIVE, THANK YOU SIR FOR SUCH A GREAT VIDEO
Thanks for taking the time to show us how’s it done!
Amazed! Planning to do this myself and now have the confidence thanks to your video. Excellent and complete. Planning to take the u-joints in to a machine shop since they have a press way bigger than mine.
Nice work, Tim. It's so self-satisfying when you get to repair a truck with all new quality parts!
+Corky C Hey, Indeed but I noticed your profile picture basically shows your toes in the sand kind of deal...That looks even more satisfying!
I always like to use Anti seize when putting in Ball Joints and Wheel Bearings ETC. Wheel Bearings where it does into the hub, really helps. But I know a lot of Mechanics don't do that for some reason or another. It sure helps out the next Guy that has to take it apart!. Great video by the way. Thanks for sharing...
One of the best mechanics ever. Really enjoys his work, attention to detail.
Great Video!! Need upper and lower ball joints on my 2002 Ram 2500 but didn't know what was involved now I sure do!! I now know what parts and also what tools and special tools and supplies I will need to complete the job. Wish you were located closer to me as I would sure use you to complete the job. Mechanics such as you are a disappearing breed. Thanks Again!
Fabulous video! You are obviously a pro! I am going to do most of the work you highlighted in your video, to my 2003 Dodge 3500!
Wow! You rock! I would travel many miles to have YOU
work on my 2014 Ram!
Your meticulous in your work!
Your attention to detail equals top of the line repairs!
Too bad you don't live in East Texas!
Drive on up I’ll help you out. Hehe
You are a very good mechanic.
thank you for the video. you are a professional. you showed the proper tools to use it and do it the right way.
Thanks for the video. I took a look at my front end and thought shouldn't be too bad. Came across your video and checked it out. Way easier than I thought. Thank you very much.
Great. Check out the updated steering linkage. I didn't use the updated parts in this video however they are highly recommended. Take care.
This is a genuine mechanic. Awesome video!
Thanks for the advice, great video and handy service tools.New Zealand follower and Dodge owner
Amazing video Sir! Thank you kindly for taking the time to produce it and to show your tips and tricks. It’s so nice to see a true craftsman at work. I just stumbled across your channel trying to find general info on my 96 2500 for ball joint replacement, very glad I did. You got one more subscriber and I look forward to watching your other videos. Thanks again and take care!!
You are a Excellent mechanic Alaska should be glad to have a Mechanic like you. Aloha
Excellent Video. Although I have a 98' 1500 2wd I bought 2 years ago, you Video and your presentation presents some pretty clear and understandable information. I most appreciate your attention to professional details, ie torque secs. Lighting and Camera perspective Excellent. Have subscribed and will be looking at channel for more useful videos.👍👍👍
Doctor , you are the beat I've seen in a long time. You know your business that's for sure. I've got a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 that need the same kind of work so now I know what they have to do, I wish you could fix my truck. You are Great my friend and you made a great video.
Nice explainer, nice pace and good details. Thank you.
Nice job Doc. Its prolly going to take me 4 times the amount of time it took you 😀 I was surprised you didn't mention the track bar joints, those seem to wear out much faster than anything else, for me at least. Keep on wrenching.
My nephew will be grateful for this
Best Video I have seen on RUclips
Great video ! Wish I could a professional mechanic like you to work on my Dodge Ram
Bring it over I’ll be happy to take care of it for you.
The f250 ball joint axle seal video was great thanks for showing your excellent videos yes I slam those puppy's to
Good detailed info for the do it yourselfer with moderate mechanical skills. Nicely done Sir.
thanks for taking the time to video this job. appreciate the direct to the point instructions. people like you make america great!
Thanks a lot!
Excellent video, the way you put it up leave no room for questions. Very well explain. Thank you Sir
Torque on hub bolts ?????? What's the lbs?
Did this repair on my 1999 2WD Ram 1500. Ball joints came off easier than going on. If you don't have a powerful impact gun you may want to re-think doing it. Used a Craftsman 18" breaker bar with a 4' cheater pipe and they still barely went in. Specially the lower ones.
Excellent presentation on how to do the job right- job well done !!
Great video. Very informative. Now I know why my 05 2500 ram cost so much for the front end repair last year. Whew that's a lot of labour and parts.
I didn't know Tom Hanks could turn wrenches!!! Hahaha good vid man I'm doing some ball joints tomorrow and it always helps to go through the process prior to.
Thank you!
Highly appreciate the video! Replacing my 2001 dodges front end and this video will be a tremendous help, even ordered all moog parts lol. Thanks again
Good choice! Thanks for watching.
That was a well done instructional video. It would be nice if it was always this easy. If you live in the rust belt, the wheel bearing housing will probably be frozen to the steering knuckle. The puller will remove the hub and the outside bearing, leaving the inside bearing and housing in the steering knuckle. You'll have to press the wheel bearing housing out of the steering knuckle and replace the wheel bearings or buy a complete hub and bearing assembly.
THANKS DR. FOR POSTING THIS TERRIFIC WORK!!! THIS IS PRICELESS!!!
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching
always hits your big toe. And that’s when you know he’s a good mechanic
Just recently did all that same repairs to my 2003 dodge ram 2500. Did all the steps as you did, however at 412,000 miles the hubs, ball joints, and u-joints at the front hubs were not easy at all. Enjoyed your video.
Wow, nice job. Bet that cost a pretty penny. Professionally done. Like to watch a guy that knows what the hell he's doing.
You have the patience of Job and are an excellent teacher! Subscribed.
man you got one strong impact wrench..nice work as usual..
+Twolf125 It's an oldie but a goodie. Just the standard IR 2131 TNT Max 1/2" gun. Worth every cent you pay. Thanks for dropping by.
him "we'll just lighty tighten these lugnuts down" *brings out the ugga dugga*
That is a good video, you're a true pro, calm, prepared and well executed plan. very helpful to us home mechanics .
Great video, watched the complete job. You made it look easy. You obviously take pride in your work.
It's great to see a pro in action, using systematic methods with the right tools. As an added bonus you've got some good camera skills, too. As a long term subscriber, the only request I will make is to ask you to spend a little more camera time on how you make the diagnosis. Learning how to make the diagnosis is always the biggest challenge.
Great video! Thank you Car Doctor!
Awesome video helped me alot with the ball joints on my 04 ram 2500 thanks!
Great video I have a 2 wheel drive so I think I will be doing a little bit more research before I take on this project myself.
Best video I have found so far on here. Thanks
Thanks, glad it helped.
Just want to say that your video was awesome. Thanks so much for what you do. Tackling 3/4 of this tomorrow.
AWESOME VIDEO. Will favorite for working on my dodge 2500 in the future. Not to be safety nut but safety glasses are key man. I've been nagged to use them everyday working at Ryder and they actually have come in handy a few times. never know when something is going to let loose using those impact tools.
Wish you were closer (So CA). You come across as the kind of patient, conscientious professional we all hope we would be fortunate to have work on our vehicles. It's such a crap shoot these days with mechanics. We count on them to know their stuff, but unfortunately many turn out to be boneheads.
This was an excellent video by a true craftsman which was very helpful. Thank you!
If you make it down to Maui, I owe you a beer for the great video! Heads up on protecting and being aware of the axle seal would be the only addition I've got- thanks for the great vid!
Thanks, ill be by in the next year to take you up on the offer. Aloha!
Extremely good explanation.
By far the best video well explained on how to do the job man
Thank you so much.
Great video this is a real mechanic good job.
Thanks brother am going to replace the universal joints but you just cover everything am going to change upper and lower bearings too.
Thank you so much LOL you made it so much easier
Great video. Thanks for all the tips that help us DIY guys immensely. You’ve definitely saved me a lot of time on this job!
Thank you.
Thanks for a thorough Video...
I pop the hub off by backing the bolts out a 1/4 inch, then stick a socket backwards against one bolt and part of the differential. Using the power steering, I turn the wheels to push the bolt much like a portapower.
Would like see if could do video on a 2005 dodge ram 2500 4×4 change the rear hub assembly. Showing bearings,seal,etc. ..
GREAT VIDEO!! I was going to attempt the repair by myself but don't have the necessary tools. Guess I will take it to the shop for the work. At my age the tools will never never be used again. Thanks for the video, extremely informational.
Some parts stores like oreilly will rent or loan the pullers and such.
Damn that was quick. It took me four days to remove the hub on my 02, but the puller tore the hub apart.
YOUR THE MAN! Awesome show of your skill! Your my new hero!
Doing the same job in my shop today. Thanka for the video. Helped out alot
Excellent video.! God bless you.
Very good tech nice to see not a hack and slash like most 👍👍👍👍👍
Wow! Your a real pro,!
I learned a lot in this type service.
Thanks, glad you found it helpful
Sunnyvale877
In my case, one of the knuckle holes was out of round and wallowed out. If the tapered knuckle holes are too large or out of round, the ball joint won't seat in the correct position... EMF, (a ball joint vendor), has a vid showing how to check for this.Thanks for your video! Have a great day !
excellent video! I look forward to watching all of your others
Thanks and welcome!
Your the man! Best I've seen! New sub here from Kentucky!!!
Thank you
I just did this same thing at the shop I work at the only thing I did different is the ball joints was put in the freezer. When the old one is out I get the new one out of the freezer and it goes in very easy