I just killed my Cobalt SS engine ... dunno what exactly happened - cracked piston maybe. So probably will be getting this LDK block to swap it over my broken LNF (small aluminium pieces in the oil filter). This video helped a lot even that's different platform 👌
fwiw, 'balts are easier to swap by dropping through the bottom rather than cherry picking through the top of the bay if you have a lift available. IIRC it's also how they are assembled. but not everyone has a lift at their disposal.
My 07 solsice block just blew a fist size hole out the side so after some helpful advice from the solstice forum im going to be doing the Ldk swap and findimg this video is honestly a godsend. I might make a video of it but dont think I'll have that kind of time and commitment, not too mention being seen lose my shit on camera 😅
I plan on picking up a solstice relatively soon. Really enjoy the amount of time put into this video, def gonna use this video for reference if i have any block issues.
You im wondering if i can get any help, i did the swap and the engine started but the turbo started smoking and the pil aint returning to the drip can, do you know what can be causing this?
Be sure you have all of your oil and water lines hooked to the turbo and engine correctly. Also check the oil return isn't clogged or kinked and has a straight shot back to the oil pan.
looking at the clutch kit if you look up the exceedy part number it doesn't fit the LNF or LDK??? also it looks like RAM 6 puck clutches are really aggressive. How does the clutch feel? any chance you have a part number off the ram friction disk?
This is a kit DDM works pieced together. I dont have the number on the disk. The clutch was very agressive, it took 2,000 miles or more to get completly broken in. The engagement was sudden but not to bad once you got used to it. Also the lightweight flywheel really hepled with downshifts.
@@LateralGs any idea what the part number for the slave cylinder is? it is not the stock one this one is taller? maybe in some of your source video you could see it? I would call ddm but they dont open until monday. pretty sure its 24249818 the one out of the 2.4L but hoping to verify before I buy one.
@@moltenmotorco.7135 The part number you listed is the same as the one provided by DDM. I didn't even notice the part number was different than the one I took off until I reviewed the footage just now. For anybody wondering 24234308 is the part number of the one I took off.
@@LateralGs yep found out today the original is too short. DDM provides the 2.4l slave that has a taller casted part .. and yes I learned the hard way. went to test it after getting a few bell housing bolts. luckily I did not assemble the whole thing before figuring it out but the engine to transmission mating celebration was short-lived when we figured it had to come back out.
Yes, but at the time of posting this everything I read online was that you needed to use a LNF head with the LDK block because there was one forum member in particular that said the LDK did not fit in the Sol/Sky.
Installed my ldk on my ss, missed the step of checking for the pilot bearing if it had it or not. I did spin my intermediate shaft and I can hear transmission rotate idk if this helps.....
It took me several months just working a little bit on the weekends. Something I didn't show in the video was I messed up the throw out bearing the first time around so I had to pull the engine back out to fix it. So that added quite a bit of time to this. Also I was ordering parts as I went. I had to wait 3 weeks on the clutch kit to come in once I saw how poor of condition the original was in.
I have an air compressor for filling up my tires haha. Since this project I have bought some Dewalt battery tools but I end up hardly using them because I just prefer hand tools.
I took the thermostat housing off of the LNF and put it on the LDK with the stock thermostat in it. I never changed it once the engine was back together. I don't think it would be anymore trouble to get to it than it already was.
The reason I chose the LDK is because I didnt see any new LNFs for sale for the price of a new LDK. I paid $2,150 shipped. Also I believe all LNFs are gen II Ecotec and the LDK/LHU are gen III Ecotec but I could be mistaken.
@@LateralGs this is correct (gen2 vs gen3), and has always been the case. the reason LNFs fell out of production was their casting method left huge HOLES inside the block walls (many people misunderstand the "porousness" to be the surface of the block, when it is not, people have slice the blocks down and found huge half-inch air pockets inside the block walls.) -- that and they can be reasonably swapped with three other engines (two others at the time the Gxp/Redline were discontinued) and the LDK became the most ideal from a performance and bottom-end strange perspective. one note on the tstat housing is once you have the engine installed and everything connected the conduits and "rain gutter" get in the way of one of the bolts (it's a pain even with the LNF head, and worse with the LDK head.) but if you're willing to pull off the plastic shield and unplug some of the conduits back there, it becomes super easy.. this is why people swap to an LNF head, in general, because servicing becomes harder than it normally would be. it's not that "LDK head doesn't fit" it's specifically that "LDK head once fitted limits your access, requiring extra work for servicing." somehow i think this was reduced by the masses into "LDK head doesn't fit" which is simply not true... +1 for calling this out in your video, as this was something that was noted by the first group of people to do LDK swaps, but somehow the masses began interpreting it as "requires LNF head" (and the way ZZP describes block options these days doesn't help, makes it seem like you "need" an LNF head swap which comes with an additional cost of $500 over the LDK engine itself.) RE: vacuum (brake boost) assembly deletion. i've been told ZZP sells a part to block it off, have no experience with that though.
I worked on it several nonconsecutive weekends. I ordered parts as I went so some I had to wait a while on. 3 weeks for the clutch and flywheel for example. Also everything takes longer when you video it.
How difficult was it to disconnect the transmission and get the engine mated up again on reinstall? You're the only person I've seen swap the engine without pulling the transmission on this car. This looks like a lot less work as getting the transmission out potentially involves removing the rear diff, pulling out an axle etc. depending on who you ask.
Yes I have heard varying degrees of thing needing to be removed to get the trans out and I didn't want to attempt it. There are two bolts on the top side of the bell housing that are hard to get to. You have to move some of the coolant hoses out of the way. The rest of the bell housing bolts are facing the opposite way and are easy to get to from under the car. Getting it disconnected was hard because of the way the engine mounts are shaped. I found it best to disconnect the engine mounts. Then lift the engine as high as possible and remove the mounts from underneath. After that lower the engine down to make the trans level and put a jack under the trans. Adjust the height of both the engine and trans as needed using the jack and the engine hoist. It took a good deal of force pulling the engine towards the front of the car to separate the two. Once a gap was formed I was able to use a pry bar and get them completely detached from each other. You will need to loosen the steering rack mounts to have enough room to get the engine completely off the input shaft. Putting it back in was fiddly just trying to get everything lined up but not impossible.
@@LateralGsExcellent. Great tip on the engine mounts. Hopefully I won't end up with one of the weaker castings. Just putting together contingency plans as I get ready to push things with the EFR6758.
I pulled them as a unit (all three times). I found it a lot easier to do it that way. The axles stay in the car. The driveshaft just slides off the the transmission output shaft, and goes back on pretty easily. I also installed the manifolds, turbo, etc. when the engine was on the stand. It's a little easier than doing it with everything in the very-cramped engine bay.
Which LDK option did you purchase? The three options on zzp website is Regal, Cobalt/HHR or Sky/Solstice. Since yours has the LDK head instead of the LNF head, I'm assuming you got the Cobalt /HHR version. Would I be correct?
I didn't buy it through their website. I bought it off of ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/111144122862 But yes mine was for the Cobalt/HHR because it had the block off plate installed. With the vacuum pump installed it won't fit in the kappa platform.
Hey quick question bud. Just bought a ldk swap cobalt ss. Was wondering if you kniw if the lnf and ldk engine parts luke spark plugs coils etc are interchangeable? Thanks
I lost my first engine at 26K, 8 years after production, it was not my daily driver -- my failure was a combination of running 26psi boost in the middle of summer and my water pump failed, didn't notice until i felt a "lurch" while racing someone and a distinct power loss, then lots of smoke out the rear, looked at the dash and was showing a temp of 242 -- replaced the pump just to rule out there being another issue with temps, ran nice and cool despite blowing gobs of smoke out he tailpipe. IMO the LNF will last a very long time if left stock, but the moment you start running an aggressive tune all bets are off, you will break everything from the airbox to the downpipe at some point.. where most people bolt-on upgrades to gain power, DIY tuners eventually have to bolt-on upgrades because they broke what was there (or know that they WILL break it.) "Build it, race it, break it, repeat." For example the head bolts on an LDK will stretch under high-perf applications, and the connecting rods will bend, both before you hit the theoretical max of 500hp various people regurgitate about the LDK. If you're going to do a swap, might consider getting in there and upgrading rods, pistons, and bolts while you're at it. if you EVER plan on upgrading the turbo (since the K04 drops out hard at around 6K rpm) then you might also consider some heavier valve springs so you're not floating/knocking your valves at higher RPMs (but who is really building their GXPs and Redlines to put down 400-500bhp?) the same is true if you are swapping cams to something with higher lift, but if you're game enough to swap cams you don't need to be told to upgrade springs.
@@LateralGs and the word spec you saw was for the flywheel conforming to the SFI Flywheel specification version 1.1. Kind of like an ISO certification for a company. Not made by SPEC flywheels tho. By chance do you happen to have the model number of the pressure plate??
I have a really low mileage 08 sky redline...like 3475...i never even heard of the block cracking problem..gulp!..maybe i need to sell my car and look into a vette.
Awesome vid Where did you get the engine I have 08 GXP just pulled the looking at replacing it and was wondering if it’s better to upgrade Looking at ZZ performance
Thanks. I bought mine from a ZZP ebay ad. www.ebay.com/itm/111144122862 The reason to get the LDK over the LNF is the different casting method used for the engine block. Plus I dont think the LNF is avaliable as a long block anymore.
8:36 On zzperformance's website it says that they will swap the LDK head for an LNF head (if you select the sky/solstice LNF option) before they ship the engine to you. So that's probably why you didn't have clearance issues at the time.
I didnt order from their website and I never contacted them to say I had a Sky or Solstice. They had engines listed on ebay at the time and thats were I purchased this one from. Also I demonstrate in the video that the heads on the engines are different but it still fits.
they should "feel" like they have more torque outside of boost, there is a slight compression change, but it's so small it won't be like a night vs. day experience.. the LDK requires minor retuning (will run an LNF tune like nothing changed, but anything "fit-like-a-glove" to an LNF will need to be tweaked and your only indicator will be the data -- for example if you eat-sleep-breath HPT you'll notice your AFRs/trims will be slightly different, but little else will change.) there is a negligible improvement in fuel delivery and something head-level is changed which results in audible "chatter" sounds under extreme boost and high RPMs that doesn't happen with the exact same tune and a stock LNF. i think there may be a negligible difference in the cam profiles, but i've never actually checked so not 100% sure. i have had an LNF and LDK (both 2008 sky redlines) side by side, stock blocks with the same tune to note the differences. it's very minor, but when you're jumping between them (literally) and testing tune changes you can tell they aren't the same engine.
Don't know how you have the energy to film all of that while working. If my daily goes down I spent most of my spare energy glaring at my truck and swearing.
At 0:22 you have this nice shot of the new block where one can see the sandcasting finish outside. Do you have also a close-up shot of the old block? At my Opel GT (same as yours) there was also this crack and the outside of the block looked like styrofoam, which will probably come from the casting process. Oh and, Great Work, filming this and putting it up on YT, Thank You Sir! :-)
I made some shots... ;) Old one c1.staticflickr.com/5/4749/25316169437_cb72956c0a_b.jpg New one c1.staticflickr.com/5/4608/26314912868_54b5be9d25_b.jpg Does this fit with your shots?
Great! I saw, you filled coolant in with the DDM-Works-method with the hose disconnected. Does it really work? I tried it several times, but sometimes I get temperatures like 220F, then after a short period of time, the temp drops again to the normal 180-185F. Don´t know, what I should do about it... :(
Yes it works but you have to do it multiple times. I had to bleed the coolant 3 or 4 times after this engine swap. Normal temp of my car is 190-200. Sometimes it goes as high as 210 but that is normal. If you are seeing 220 there is still an air bubble in your coolant system.
Short answer no. I mean theoretically you could I guess but you shouldn't. I'm fairly certain the engine mounts and bell housing are the same. So any of the Ecotec engines could physically fit in the engine bay but you would have to modify the engine wire harness. And even if you did I don't think the Redline ECU would run a non turbo port injection engine. So you would need a standalone ECU and there goes your budget. I paid $2,150 including shipping for my engine. And they have them listed $100 cheaper now. Not a bad deal for a new long block. www.ebay.com/itm/111144122862
They sell one with the exhaust manifold and turbo. www.ebay.com/itm/131328205748 You are still gona need the intake manifold and related sensors, throttle body, p/s pump, a/c compressor, alternator, all the induction pipes with related sensors, oil pan, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and maybe a couple small things I'm forgetting. Also the picture shows a dipstick tube but mine didn't come with one and I reused my old one. A junkyard engine is a gamble but if you could fine a wrecked low mile engine complete it might be worth it. If I was in your position I would try and buy a wrecked donor car from somewhere like Copart and take everything you need from it. Then try and sell the remaining good parts to recoup some of your cost.
@@LateralGs How many miles did you have? I have 83,000 on my 2.4L base model solstice and it still runs perfect. I had to replaced the valve cover gasket a few weeks ago because it was seeping oil.
Looking to getting my first kappa soon. I am honestly thinking about finding a cheap redline or base with a blown motor. And replacing it with ZZPs short block with built internals. And using the stock turbo for the time being. Figure it would be a pretty straight forward swap, and for the same price of a good red line, all i would need is to upgrade the turbo for some major power in the future.
Sounds like a fun project. One thing to keep in mind is the base LE5 and redline LNF are very different when it comes to wiring and ECU. If you are wanting to get a LDK engine I would stick to only looking for a Redline or GXP model.
about to do the same thing myself...in the exact same midnight blue/black ragtop Thanks for the video!
Good luck on your swap but mine was a Carbon Flash not blue
Ah looks close. Mine almost looks black at night
I just killed my Cobalt SS engine ... dunno what exactly happened - cracked piston maybe. So probably will be getting this LDK block to swap it over my broken LNF (small aluminium pieces in the oil filter). This video helped a lot even that's different platform 👌
Thanks. Good luck on your swap.
fwiw, 'balts are easier to swap by dropping through the bottom rather than cherry picking through the top of the bay if you have a lift available. IIRC it's also how they are assembled. but not everyone has a lift at their disposal.
What a daunting task, well done! How many miles did your LNF last?
Thanks. I had 109,000 miles on the engine when the coolant started draining into the oil pan.
@LateralGs what a shame. Sorry to hear that.
Yeah it was a good car other than the engine problem haha
My 07 solsice block just blew a fist size hole out the side so after some helpful advice from the solstice forum im going to be doing the Ldk swap and findimg this video is honestly a godsend. I might make a video of it but dont think I'll have that kind of time and commitment, not too mention being seen lose my shit on camera 😅
The filming does take up alot of extra time. You can always just edit out the parts of you throwing tools haha.
Did you need a spacer for the slave cylinder since the new flywheel was thinner?
No. DDM provided a slave cylinder with the kit from the base model Sol/Sky that is the correct size.
I plan on picking up a solstice relatively soon. Really enjoy the amount of time put into this video, def gonna use this video for reference if i have any block issues.
Thank you.
Excellent video. Very well done. Nice car.
Thank you
You im wondering if i can get any help, i did the swap and the engine started but the turbo started smoking and the pil aint returning to the drip can, do you know what can be causing this?
Be sure you have all of your oil and water lines hooked to the turbo and engine correctly. Also check the oil return isn't clogged or kinked and has a straight shot back to the oil pan.
@@LateralGs everything looks perfect, ill try to reconnect them i suppose, thanks
A good video ,very well edited .would of liked to see the F/P roller bearing.
I'm not sure what bearing you are referring to.
What happened with the throwout bearing that you had to fix?
The original one was fine but I replaced it with the one that came in the DDM Works kit.
looking at the clutch kit if you look up the exceedy part number it doesn't fit the LNF or LDK??? also it looks like RAM 6 puck clutches are really aggressive. How does the clutch feel? any chance you have a part number off the ram friction disk?
This is a kit DDM works pieced together. I dont have the number on the disk. The clutch was very agressive, it took 2,000 miles or more to get completly broken in. The engagement was sudden but not to bad once you got used to it. Also the lightweight flywheel really hepled with downshifts.
@@LateralGs any idea what the part number for the slave cylinder is? it is not the stock one this one is taller? maybe in some of your source video you could see it? I would call ddm but they dont open until monday. pretty sure its 24249818 the one out of the 2.4L but hoping to verify before I buy one.
@@moltenmotorco.7135 The part number you listed is the same as the one provided by DDM. I didn't even notice the part number was different than the one I took off until I reviewed the footage just now. For anybody wondering 24234308 is the part number of the one I took off.
@@LateralGs yep found out today the original is too short. DDM provides the 2.4l slave that has a taller casted part .. and yes I learned the hard way. went to test it after getting a few bell housing bolts. luckily I did not assemble the whole thing before figuring it out but the engine to transmission mating celebration was short-lived when we figured it had to come back out.
Pretty straight forward..take off stuff and put in new stuff.. there's no modifications..simple swap really
Yes, but at the time of posting this everything I read online was that you needed to use a LNF head with the LDK block because there was one forum member in particular that said the LDK did not fit in the Sol/Sky.
Ty for sharing. If my new old 2007 26K Sky needs a new engine, you getting a message.
Thanks for watching.
Installed my ldk on my ss, missed the step of checking for the pilot bearing if it had it or not. I did spin my intermediate shaft and I can hear transmission rotate idk if this helps.....
My understanding is none of the LDK engines come with a pilot bearing so you should be good
@@LateralGs I msg zzp customer service and said if I want it to shift properly I need it.
Well Im not sure then. I thought fwd cars didnt need to pilot bearing.
@@LateralGs same
@@LateralGs also in this video the fins shrink as his tigten them, mine didn't do so, I guess cuz of the cltuch brand? I got stage 5 masters
How long did this project take ?
It took me several months just working a little bit on the weekends. Something I didn't show in the video was I messed up the throw out bearing the first time around so I had to pull the engine back out to fix it. So that added quite a bit of time to this. Also I was ordering parts as I went. I had to wait 3 weeks on the clutch kit to come in once I saw how poor of condition the original was in.
@@LateralGs Geez, don’t ya have an air compressor? So much ratchet use wasting time. Air ratchet…zzzzzip zzzzip zzzzip zzzzip! 😉
I have an air compressor for filling up my tires haha. Since this project I have bought some Dewalt battery tools but I end up hardly using them because I just prefer hand tools.
ill be doing this soon my timeing chain broke at 68 k miles book says to change at 150 k guess im just not luckey
I haven't heard of the chain breaking before. Usually it is the chain guides that are the problem.
Did you experiencing any trouble changing thermostat when not swapping the LNF head in?
I took the thermostat housing off of the LNF and put it on the LDK with the stock thermostat in it. I never changed it once the engine was back together. I don't think it would be anymore trouble to get to it than it already was.
Lateral G's thank you for the response! Also, was there any reason that prompted you to choose the LDK over the gen 3 LNF?
The reason I chose the LDK is because I didnt see any new LNFs for sale for the price of a new LDK. I paid $2,150 shipped. Also I believe all LNFs are gen II Ecotec and the LDK/LHU are gen III Ecotec but I could be mistaken.
@@LateralGs this is correct (gen2 vs gen3), and has always been the case. the reason LNFs fell out of production was their casting method left huge HOLES inside the block walls (many people misunderstand the "porousness" to be the surface of the block, when it is not, people have slice the blocks down and found huge half-inch air pockets inside the block walls.) -- that and they can be reasonably swapped with three other engines (two others at the time the Gxp/Redline were discontinued) and the LDK became the most ideal from a performance and bottom-end strange perspective.
one note on the tstat housing is once you have the engine installed and everything connected the conduits and "rain gutter" get in the way of one of the bolts (it's a pain even with the LNF head, and worse with the LDK head.) but if you're willing to pull off the plastic shield and unplug some of the conduits back there, it becomes super easy.. this is why people swap to an LNF head, in general, because servicing becomes harder than it normally would be. it's not that "LDK head doesn't fit" it's specifically that "LDK head once fitted limits your access, requiring extra work for servicing." somehow i think this was reduced by the masses into "LDK head doesn't fit" which is simply not true... +1 for calling this out in your video, as this was something that was noted by the first group of people to do LDK swaps, but somehow the masses began interpreting it as "requires LNF head" (and the way ZZP describes block options these days doesn't help, makes it seem like you "need" an LNF head swap which comes with an additional cost of $500 over the LDK engine itself.)
RE: vacuum (brake boost) assembly deletion. i've been told ZZP sells a part to block it off, have no experience with that though.
This video is awesome! Pretty impressive to see the entire engine swap. How long did the actual process take?
I worked on it several nonconsecutive weekends. I ordered parts as I went so some I had to wait a while on. 3 weeks for the clutch and flywheel for example. Also everything takes longer when you video it.
How difficult was it to disconnect the transmission and get the engine mated up again on reinstall? You're the only person I've seen swap the engine without pulling the transmission on this car. This looks like a lot less work as getting the transmission out potentially involves removing the rear diff, pulling out an axle etc. depending on who you ask.
Yes I have heard varying degrees of thing needing to be removed to get the trans out and I didn't want to attempt it. There are two bolts on the top side of the bell housing that are hard to get to. You have to move some of the coolant hoses out of the way. The rest of the bell housing bolts are facing the opposite way and are easy to get to from under the car. Getting it disconnected was hard because of the way the engine mounts are shaped. I found it best to disconnect the engine mounts. Then lift the engine as high as possible and remove the mounts from underneath. After that lower the engine down to make the trans level and put a jack under the trans. Adjust the height of both the engine and trans as needed using the jack and the engine hoist. It took a good deal of force pulling the engine towards the front of the car to separate the two. Once a gap was formed I was able to use a pry bar and get them completely detached from each other. You will need to loosen the steering rack mounts to have enough room to get the engine completely off the input shaft. Putting it back in was fiddly just trying to get everything lined up but not impossible.
@@LateralGsExcellent. Great tip on the engine mounts. Hopefully I won't end up with one of the weaker castings. Just putting together contingency plans as I get ready to push things with the EFR6758.
I pulled them as a unit (all three times). I found it a lot easier to do it that way. The axles stay in the car. The driveshaft just slides off the the transmission output shaft, and goes back on pretty easily. I also installed the manifolds, turbo, etc. when the engine was on the stand. It's a little easier than doing it with everything in the very-cramped engine bay.
Great Job !! Amazing work !!
Thank you
Which LDK option did you purchase? The three options on zzp website is Regal, Cobalt/HHR or Sky/Solstice. Since yours has the LDK head instead of the LNF head, I'm assuming you got the Cobalt /HHR version. Would I be correct?
I didn't buy it through their website. I bought it off of ebay.
www.ebay.com/itm/111144122862
But yes mine was for the Cobalt/HHR because it had the block off plate installed. With the vacuum pump installed it won't fit in the kappa platform.
what's the part number for the roller bearing?
12590679
I reused the original one though.
Thank you! also you don't need to remove the A/c compressor and turbo (just the cat) in order to pull the engine out
I pulled the turbo because it made it easier to unbolt the power steering pump and the engine mount on that side.
Hey quick question bud. Just bought a ldk swap cobalt ss. Was wondering if you kniw if the lnf and ldk engine parts luke spark plugs coils etc are interchangeable? Thanks
I would assume they are the same. I didn't take them out to check though.
Whelp, I'll be next to do this. Lost compression on cylinder 4. Only 37k miles too.
Wow, such low miles. Mine was at 109k when this happened. Good luck with your swap.
I lost my first engine at 26K, 8 years after production, it was not my daily driver -- my failure was a combination of running 26psi boost in the middle of summer and my water pump failed, didn't notice until i felt a "lurch" while racing someone and a distinct power loss, then lots of smoke out the rear, looked at the dash and was showing a temp of 242 -- replaced the pump just to rule out there being another issue with temps, ran nice and cool despite blowing gobs of smoke out he tailpipe.
IMO the LNF will last a very long time if left stock, but the moment you start running an aggressive tune all bets are off, you will break everything from the airbox to the downpipe at some point.. where most people bolt-on upgrades to gain power, DIY tuners eventually have to bolt-on upgrades because they broke what was there (or know that they WILL break it.)
"Build it, race it, break it, repeat." For example the head bolts on an LDK will stretch under high-perf applications, and the connecting rods will bend, both before you hit the theoretical max of 500hp various people regurgitate about the LDK. If you're going to do a swap, might consider getting in there and upgrading rods, pistons, and bolts while you're at it. if you EVER plan on upgrading the turbo (since the K04 drops out hard at around 6K rpm) then you might also consider some heavier valve springs so you're not floating/knocking your valves at higher RPMs (but who is really building their GXPs and Redlines to put down 400-500bhp?) the same is true if you are swapping cams to something with higher lift, but if you're game enough to swap cams you don't need to be told to upgrade springs.
Excited to see the rest of the integra. Just bought an 87 RS myself
Nice.
That is not a spec flywheel. Spec does not rivet the friction plates to the flywheel because they are changeable.They are bolted on.
Could be. I just remember seeing the word spec on it somewhere
@@LateralGs did your kit come with the HOB??
@@LateralGs and the word spec you saw was for the flywheel conforming to the SFI Flywheel specification version 1.1. Kind of like an ISO certification for a company. Not made by SPEC flywheels tho.
By chance do you happen to have the model number of the pressure plate??
If you are asking about the hydraulic throw out bearing, yes it came with that. The only part number I have is the one visible in the video. FMC502
What happen with the integra???
We are still working on it.
Great Vid! Will this engine fit the 2007 GXP Solstice? If so, Link to Engine? Thanks!
Thank you. Yes.
www.ebay.com/itm/111144122862
Very cool video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks
I have a really low mileage 08 sky redline...like 3475...i never even heard of the block cracking problem..gulp!..maybe i need to sell my car and look into a vette.
I think this problem wasn't really that common. After owning both I preffered the Sky over the Corvette.
Awesome vid
Where did you get the engine
I have 08 GXP just pulled the looking at replacing it and was wondering if it’s better to upgrade
Looking at ZZ performance
Thanks. I bought mine from a ZZP ebay ad.
www.ebay.com/itm/111144122862
The reason to get the LDK over the LNF is the different casting method used for the engine block. Plus I dont think the LNF is avaliable as a long block anymore.
8:36 On zzperformance's website it says that they will swap the LDK head for an LNF head (if you select the sky/solstice LNF option) before they ship the engine to you. So that's probably why you didn't have clearance issues at the time.
I didnt order from their website and I never contacted them to say I had a Sky or Solstice. They had engines listed on ebay at the time and thats were I purchased this one from. Also I demonstrate in the video that the heads on the engines are different but it still fits.
@@LateralGs Ohhh ok, thanks.
Seems the V8 would be intereybut it's a much more intensive swap. The car was actually designed to take a LS V8, but the rest of the work is tough.
Yes a V8 would have been nice. But due to money and time constraints I stuck with the Ecotec.
How do you properly torque something that is still rotating? You, sir are cool?!
Just get it goodntite and hope it works.
That's not dexcool in your cooling system is it?
I used Prestone orange coolant. It says dexcool approved on the label.
Are you guys still gonna finish the integra?
Yes. New video should be out soon.
I cant wait!
How does the engine feel compared to the LNF before the crack?
It felt the same
they should "feel" like they have more torque outside of boost, there is a slight compression change, but it's so small it won't be like a night vs. day experience.. the LDK requires minor retuning (will run an LNF tune like nothing changed, but anything "fit-like-a-glove" to an LNF will need to be tweaked and your only indicator will be the data -- for example if you eat-sleep-breath HPT you'll notice your AFRs/trims will be slightly different, but little else will change.) there is a negligible improvement in fuel delivery and something head-level is changed which results in audible "chatter" sounds under extreme boost and high RPMs that doesn't happen with the exact same tune and a stock LNF. i think there may be a negligible difference in the cam profiles, but i've never actually checked so not 100% sure. i have had an LNF and LDK (both 2008 sky redlines) side by side, stock blocks with the same tune to note the differences. it's very minor, but when you're jumping between them (literally) and testing tune changes you can tell they aren't the same engine.
Don't know how you have the energy to film all of that while working. If my daily goes down I spent most of my spare energy glaring at my truck and swearing.
Haha I wasn't planning on filming it but once I got started I decided I couldn't do all this work and not put it on the channel.
Hilarious brother, my thoughts exactly! Thank God for these energetic RUclips guys
😥😢 sorry your ecotech cracked... Hope mine stays good
From what I understand it was only a problem with the 2008 LNF engine.
At 0:22 you have this nice shot of the new block where one can see the sandcasting finish outside. Do you have also a close-up shot of the old block? At my Opel GT (same as yours) there was also this crack and the outside of the block looked like styrofoam, which will probably come from the casting process.
Oh and, Great Work, filming this and putting it up on YT, Thank You Sir! :-)
The lost foam casting method is why the block looks like styrofoam. Give me your email address and I can send you some pictures.
I made some shots... ;)
Old one c1.staticflickr.com/5/4749/25316169437_cb72956c0a_b.jpg
New one c1.staticflickr.com/5/4608/26314912868_54b5be9d25_b.jpg
Does this fit with your shots?
Yes that is how mine look.
Great!
I saw, you filled coolant in with the DDM-Works-method with the hose disconnected. Does it really work? I tried it several times, but sometimes I get temperatures like 220F, then after a short period of time, the temp drops again to the normal 180-185F. Don´t know, what I should do about it... :(
Yes it works but you have to do it multiple times. I had to bleed the coolant 3 or 4 times after this engine swap. Normal temp of my car is 190-200. Sometimes it goes as high as 210 but that is normal. If you are seeing 220 there is still an air bubble in your coolant system.
i have a 08 redline shell that needs a engine could i go with a non turbo engine? im on a budget
Short answer no. I mean theoretically you could I guess but you shouldn't. I'm fairly certain the engine mounts and bell housing are the same. So any of the Ecotec engines could physically fit in the engine bay but you would have to modify the engine wire harness. And even if you did I don't think the Redline ECU would run a non turbo port injection engine. So you would need a standalone ECU and there goes your budget.
I paid $2,150 including shipping for my engine. And they have them listed $100 cheaper now. Not a bad deal for a new long block.
www.ebay.com/itm/111144122862
cool, do they complete? i dont have any engine parts at all, i found a few engine's on Ebay for like 2200 but not sure about junk yard pulls
They sell one with the exhaust manifold and turbo.
www.ebay.com/itm/131328205748
You are still gona need the intake manifold and related sensors, throttle body, p/s pump, a/c compressor, alternator, all the induction pipes with related sensors, oil pan, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and maybe a couple small things I'm forgetting. Also the picture shows a dipstick tube but mine didn't come with one and I reused my old one.
A junkyard engine is a gamble but if you could fine a wrecked low mile engine complete it might be worth it. If I was in your position I would try and buy a wrecked donor car from somewhere like Copart and take everything you need from it. Then try and sell the remaining good parts to recoup some of your cost.
So does that new engine out out more power or is it the same?
It's the same
@@LateralGs
How many miles did you have? I have 83,000 on my 2.4L base model solstice and it still runs perfect. I had to replaced the valve cover gasket a few weeks ago because it was seeping oil.
109,000. This problem is only with the 2.0 engine.
@@LateralGs ahh ok. Now I am reconsidering trading in my base for a GXP...lol maybe I will just install a stage 1 turbo kit on the 2.4
Looking to getting my first kappa soon. I am honestly thinking about finding a cheap redline or base with a blown motor. And replacing it with ZZPs short block with built internals. And using the stock turbo for the time being. Figure it would be a pretty straight forward swap, and for the same price of a good red line, all i would need is to upgrade the turbo for some major power in the future.
Sounds like a fun project. One thing to keep in mind is the base LE5 and redline LNF are very different when it comes to wiring and ECU. If you are wanting to get a LDK engine I would stick to only looking for a Redline or GXP model.
Where's your homie at?
Couldn't make it for this project but we are still working together on the Integra.
2jz swap it
More than I can afford pal