►►► Want to fix your lawn for the long haul but don't know where to start? I can help! Click here right now and get started today: turfmech.link/dont-know-where-to-start ◄◄◄
You can use tenacity as a pre-emergent and post-emergent and can literally spray it directly onto your grass seed and it will not harm grass seed in the spring or the fall
Yes, this is correct with the caveat that you shouldnt put it on bermuda zoysia bentgrass ...and you should go lightly on fine fescue too. Also, as a pre-emergent it should be reapplied every 3-4 weeks to get lasting effects.
Worked hard the last few days to get some things done prior to getting drenched! I've got to pump my backyard today, got 6 inches of standing water there right now. French drain is going in in 8 days - can't wait! Video for Monday was filmed just prior to tge storm too. Was a crazy week! Enjoy your weekend!
always love seeing you here in the comments Allen; the last few days have been treating you north-easterners rough! March will fly by - I'm sure of it!
Thanks for the videos. Yard looks great. But i feel like most of your steps are simply solved with lime, iron, and scotts tripple. I didnt know that about the grubs though. Neat
Thank you Brian, good advice and or good reminder to me. I had bad year so I'm desperate and must try some spring seeding. Agreed not the best time. Stay well my friend.
Good luck Martin! It's not impossible to seed in Spring. Get started early and take all the steps and keep your expectations in check...and have fun with the process!
My understanding is that dethatching in the spring may do more harm than good, especially if you did a fall overseed - you may rip out a lot of those young plants that only have a few months of root growth.
Yep, that's a risk for people who did a fall overseed but I would argue only a minority of viewers ever did that. If a lawn owner did a fall overseed the definitely consider skipping the early spring power rake unless you put it up to the highest setting...otherwise just do a manual raking job just prior to spring growth.
I'm not an expert on ants by any stretch but I do know that near the end of winter or beginning of spring is probably the best time to suppress them before they get out of hand later in the season. You could probably add insecticide in with your PE treatment or just fit in a treatment around late March just to prevent infestations before they happen. If others reading this have more experience with ants I would love to hear your opinion too!
I was planting yesterday and lifted up a large flat rock I added last year, and there was a very surprised colony of fire ants under it. I’ve been using equal parts powdered sugar and baking soda since I’ve had them in different places around here. I think it kills off a bunch but the rest just move. I remember reading a comment once where someone took ants from one colony and mixed them with the other. He said they will fight to the death of each. I don’t like killing them but they are not nice. I have the tiny ones but the sting is potent. Edit to add: I found a video from the Dirt Doc, Howard Garrett. He suggests 6oz Garrett Juice (compost tea) 2oz Orange Oil mixed into a gallon of water, poured directly into the center of the mound until it reaches the bottom, killing the Queen. Then finish pouring the rest of the mound in a circle. He says this eliminates rather than pushing them to other parts of the yard.
I've learned that only specific mycorrhizae have specific relationships with specific plants. Bermuda grass likes arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi. Apparently it cannot be anything close to hot outside when applied or they will die off very soon after applying.
If you had a lot of weed pressure last year prior to seeding then I'd say go for it, you may stunt the new grass a bit but probably not enough to notice. If yiu didn't have a heavy weed infestation last year then I'd say skip it and push as much rooting as possible through spring. If any weeds pop up you can spot spray before temps climb high in late Spring.
Hey Brian, if you plan on putting down seed in the spring, after you've power ranked and core areation. Is it recommended to wait to apply your pre emergent? Or not at all.
Probably best to skip it this Spring if applying seed. If you wanted a bit of extra coverage you could consider a few rounds of mesotrione in place of the normal pre-emergents but that is notably more complicated since they were off in less than a month.
@@cpra694 FeHEDTA is an iron based herbicide that is usually safe for all grass types after about 10 days post germination. You could apply a blanket app of fehedta 3-4 times through the spring at 3-4 week intervals to limit weed pressure during grass establishment.
Absolutely! You could apply fehedta to it a day beforehand if you like while temps are still cool otherwise just deal with them later in the season. If you have a weedy lawn then aerating will make pre-emergent more important so probably wouldn't advise skipping that
This could be a good sign that your soil isn't compacted...it could also signal oversaturation meaning you just wait for things to dry out more...it could also mean you have a damaged tine or tines which means fixing the tines or replacing the tool. Last year in my manual aeration video ruclips.net/video/Y92eFREwrvg/видео.html my Yard Butler started clogging on one side. I tried to fix it but couldn't so I just went to home depot and picked up a new one made by Corona. I actually liked the feel of the Corona better but that's besides the point. You can see the switch in the video I linked to. The Corona pulled the cores perfectly without clogs. If your handy enough you could fix it...I apparently wasn't handy enough 🤣
ok, then that might be the issue. I've got a rainy forecast so you probably do too. Wait for the rain to subside and dry out for a few days then give it another try. Also, keep in mind sandy soil won't pull plugs as easily as clay soil. If your soil is sandy as mine is here then you may find it just doesn't need core aeration as much. The machines pull wider cores so they tend to pull cores out while manual tools that are thinner don't so that's always an option. Top-dressing is still helpful if you plan on doing that so possibly spike aeration might work well for you to open channels for topdressing material to get incorporated into the lower soil profile. Enjoy your wet weekend!
My backyard is bare right now (Just dirt) and i want to drop some seed for grass. Is it to late to this process or should i go ahead and do the prep and move forward. I'm in Orange County California.
@@MunsterOC in that case you are not too late by a mile. Here in socal we've had a wet cool February and are sopping wet right now. If it were me I'd take advantage of the wet soft soil and drop seed immediately following next week's rain system coming through. Here in Camarillo ive got rain in the forecast through Wednesday then it will dry out and start warming slightly. Dropping seed in these cool temps will give you slow germination but it should be reliable and easy to keep seed moist with such damp soil. If your planning on dropping fescue, kikuyu, or bermuda (most likely candidates for your area) tye fescue will germinate the fastest but may not be the right option for you depending on watering and summer heat in your exact area. When dropping seed plan on doing three rounds of mesotrione to suppress weeds or just expect to have to deal with weeds in June after your grass has grown for a couple months.
@@TurfMechanic That's awesome news! That was going to be my next question, what seed you would recommend but you answered all my questions. I really appreciate it! This helps me out.
I wouldn't be true to myself if I didn't also suggest buffalograss. It's the lowest water requirement of them all, sacrifice is winter dormancy and less deep green color and probably more seed heads. :)
Great tips! I think the reel mowing community on YT really got everyone thinking shorter is better, me to. I have gradually moved my height of cut up over the past 18 months too. I'm going that high because it's easier for my animals and kids to have shorter cut grass but a middle ground 2-inch is way better than a 1-inch cut. Right now I'm reel mowing as low as possible but only for the sake of a height of cut reset. Front yard later this year will be cut in the 3-inch range most likely.
@@DRTOLLZ that's fine, pretty short for a top setting but tttf fescue can look great at that height. You'll just probably want to cut it slightly more often at that height to keep it looking its best. If you ever get a mower that goes up closer to 3.5 then consider a taller cut at that time. Shorter cut grass is simply harder to make it look and perform at its best.
►►► Want to fix your lawn for the long haul but don't know where to start? I can help! Click here right now and get started today: turfmech.link/dont-know-where-to-start ◄◄◄
You can use tenacity as a pre-emergent and post-emergent and can literally spray it directly onto your grass seed and it will not harm grass seed in the spring or the fall
Yes, this is correct with the caveat that you shouldnt put it on bermuda zoysia bentgrass ...and you should go lightly on fine fescue too. Also, as a pre-emergent it should be reapplied every 3-4 weeks to get lasting effects.
Ya gotta try the GREEN SCOTT aeration wheel works great! Small to medium yards! The best I’d say!
Brian said , well this rain isnt goin to let me sleep , might as well deop this video 😀 . Lol . Stay safe and dry, brother 🙏
Worked hard the last few days to get some things done prior to getting drenched! I've got to pump my backyard today, got 6 inches of standing water there right now. French drain is going in in 8 days - can't wait! Video for Monday was filmed just prior to tge storm too. Was a crazy week! Enjoy your weekend!
I can't wait for 2023 season here in New York city 4 weeks the season starts good to see you always a great show brother thanks
always love seeing you here in the comments Allen; the last few days have been treating you north-easterners rough! March will fly by - I'm sure of it!
Thanks for the videos. Yard looks great. But i feel like most of your steps are simply solved with lime, iron, and scotts tripple. I didnt know that about the grubs though. Neat
Thank you Brian, good advice and or good reminder to me. I had bad year so I'm desperate and must try some spring seeding. Agreed not the best time. Stay well my friend.
Good luck Martin! It's not impossible to seed in Spring. Get started early and take all the steps and keep your expectations in check...and have fun with the process!
Brian!!! I'm so excited!!!!
Down boy, down! 😜
@@TurfMechanic 😄😄😄😄😄
Thank you brother
My understanding is that dethatching in the spring may do more harm than good, especially if you did a fall overseed - you may rip out a lot of those young plants that only have a few months of root growth.
Yep, that's a risk for people who did a fall overseed but I would argue only a minority of viewers ever did that. If a lawn owner did a fall overseed the definitely consider skipping the early spring power rake unless you put it up to the highest setting...otherwise just do a manual raking job just prior to spring growth.
Makes sense. I made the assumption we’re all crazed overseeding lawnatics! 😂
Thank you Maestro!!
🤝
Hi. What’s the best Azomite Granuler or powder? Also, how to apply it? Thanks so much. Great videos.
Also, how to apply Green Sand?
Thanks
Thanks for the tips, always great content. Would you advise applying an insecticide with the group preventative? Ants are the worse
I'm not an expert on ants by any stretch but I do know that near the end of winter or beginning of spring is probably the best time to suppress them before they get out of hand later in the season. You could probably add insecticide in with your PE treatment or just fit in a treatment around late March just to prevent infestations before they happen. If others reading this have more experience with ants I would love to hear your opinion too!
I was planting yesterday and lifted up a large flat rock I added last year, and there was a very surprised colony of fire ants under it. I’ve been using equal parts powdered sugar and baking soda since I’ve had them in different places around here. I think it kills off a bunch but the rest just move. I remember reading a comment once where someone took ants from one colony and mixed them with the other. He said they will fight to the death of each. I don’t like killing them but they are not nice. I have the tiny ones but the sting is potent. Edit to add: I found a video from the Dirt Doc, Howard Garrett. He suggests 6oz Garrett Juice (compost tea) 2oz Orange Oil mixed into a gallon of water, poured directly into the center of the mound until it reaches the bottom, killing the Queen. Then finish pouring the rest of the mound in a circle. He says this eliminates rather than pushing them to other parts of the yard.
Thanks for all of those ideas; you know I'll take some time to research them eventually! :D
I am a cool season lawn, is it OK if I use the grub treatment in May and do it only once for the year or do you have to do it twice for the year?
I've learned that only specific mycorrhizae have specific relationships with specific plants. Bermuda grass likes arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi. Apparently it cannot be anything close to hot outside when applied or they will die off very soon after applying.
Do these steps apply to Centipede in south Alabama?
What are your thoughts on pre emergent on a newly seeded lawn that is 5 months old?
If you had a lot of weed pressure last year prior to seeding then I'd say go for it, you may stunt the new grass a bit but probably not enough to notice. If yiu didn't have a heavy weed infestation last year then I'd say skip it and push as much rooting as possible through spring. If any weeds pop up you can spot spray before temps climb high in late Spring.
Links to these products pleeeease!
Hey Brian, if you plan on putting down seed in the spring, after you've power ranked and core areation. Is it recommended to wait to apply your pre emergent? Or not at all.
Probably best to skip it this Spring if applying seed. If you wanted a bit of extra coverage you could consider a few rounds of mesotrione in place of the normal pre-emergents but that is notably more complicated since they were off in less than a month.
@@TurfMechanic Unfortunately in Canada you can't get mesotrione. Any other recommendations?
@@cpra694 FeHEDTA is an iron based herbicide that is usually safe for all grass types after about 10 days post germination. You could apply a blanket app of fehedta 3-4 times through the spring at 3-4 week intervals to limit weed pressure during grass establishment.
Hey turf mechanic. Can I still core aerate my bermuda even if I have weeds after it comes out of dormancy. Thanks
Absolutely! You could apply fehedta to it a day beforehand if you like while temps are still cool otherwise just deal with them later in the season. If you have a weedy lawn then aerating will make pre-emergent more important so probably wouldn't advise skipping that
So for spring you should be mowing shorter correct?
just for the initial mow or two, by third mow you can set the mower back up where you normally want it for the season.
Okay great thanks!
When I manually aerate, the plugs never come up! They just get stuck in the tool. Any tips?
This could be a good sign that your soil isn't compacted...it could also signal oversaturation meaning you just wait for things to dry out more...it could also mean you have a damaged tine or tines which means fixing the tines or replacing the tool. Last year in my manual aeration video ruclips.net/video/Y92eFREwrvg/видео.html my Yard Butler started clogging on one side. I tried to fix it but couldn't so I just went to home depot and picked up a new one made by Corona. I actually liked the feel of the Corona better but that's besides the point. You can see the switch in the video I linked to. The Corona pulled the cores perfectly without clogs. If your handy enough you could fix it...I apparently wasn't handy enough 🤣
@@TurfMechanic thank you! Yes we have had quite a bit of rain here. I’m just a little south of you.
ok, then that might be the issue. I've got a rainy forecast so you probably do too. Wait for the rain to subside and dry out for a few days then give it another try. Also, keep in mind sandy soil won't pull plugs as easily as clay soil. If your soil is sandy as mine is here then you may find it just doesn't need core aeration as much. The machines pull wider cores so they tend to pull cores out while manual tools that are thinner don't so that's always an option. Top-dressing is still helpful if you plan on doing that so possibly spike aeration might work well for you to open channels for topdressing material to get incorporated into the lower soil profile. Enjoy your wet weekend!
My backyard is bare right now (Just dirt) and i want to drop some seed for grass. Is it to late to this process or should i go ahead and do the prep and move forward. I'm in Orange County California.
Did you have grass at any point last year or has it been basically bare dirt for more than a full season?
@@TurfMechanic Its been bare dirt the full season. I killed off what was left of my grass last season.
@@MunsterOC in that case you are not too late by a mile. Here in socal we've had a wet cool February and are sopping wet right now. If it were me I'd take advantage of the wet soft soil and drop seed immediately following next week's rain system coming through. Here in Camarillo ive got rain in the forecast through Wednesday then it will dry out and start warming slightly. Dropping seed in these cool temps will give you slow germination but it should be reliable and easy to keep seed moist with such damp soil. If your planning on dropping fescue, kikuyu, or bermuda (most likely candidates for your area) tye fescue will germinate the fastest but may not be the right option for you depending on watering and summer heat in your exact area. When dropping seed plan on doing three rounds of mesotrione to suppress weeds or just expect to have to deal with weeds in June after your grass has grown for a couple months.
@@TurfMechanic That's awesome news! That was going to be my next question, what seed you would recommend but you answered all my questions. I really appreciate it! This helps me out.
I wouldn't be true to myself if I didn't also suggest buffalograss. It's the lowest water requirement of them all, sacrifice is winter dormancy and less deep green color and probably more seed heads. :)
Sound advice. Also sharpen blades and raise them . Cut no shorter than top two highest blade settings. EVERYBODY I know cuts their grass TOO short.
Great tips! I think the reel mowing community on YT really got everyone thinking shorter is better, me to. I have gradually moved my height of cut up over the past 18 months too. I'm going that high because it's easier for my animals and kids to have shorter cut grass but a middle ground 2-inch is way better than a 1-inch cut. Right now I'm reel mowing as low as possible but only for the sake of a height of cut reset. Front yard later this year will be cut in the 3-inch range most likely.
My mower top level is 2.5 inches. Is that high enough for TTTF?
@@DRTOLLZ that's fine, pretty short for a top setting but tttf fescue can look great at that height. You'll just probably want to cut it slightly more often at that height to keep it looking its best. If you ever get a mower that goes up closer to 3.5 then consider a taller cut at that time. Shorter cut grass is simply harder to make it look and perform at its best.
@@TurfMechanic I have a fiskars reel mower that goes up to 4 inches but it doesn’t cut well at that height and I prefer to gather the clippings
Should be as long as top of shoe after cut. Like you, I see way too short a lawn that exposes to all destruction
💪