Verbal typo at 19:52. To clarify: THIS induction heater won't heat non-ferrous metals. It's just not powerful enough. For heating non-ferrous metals like alloy, brass.etc you need a more powerful induction heater and also the coil frequency plays a major role when heating non-ferrous metals. Sorry for any confusion! - SCHEMATIX -
Nice build.. I am a noob on the matter and its more the concept that appeals to me... so pick up a cheap edition that cost around 3.5USD and been playing with it the last couple of days,. i.imgur.com/6lMr8mP.jpg Was planning to make some recording with thermal to show how the heat transfers and I atm I run it on an adjustable power bank that tops out around 80watt, but for proof of concept and small metal pieces its work brilliantly.. form a 3.5USD product it is able to make fx a 5mmAllen Key completely red glowing, solely from a USB(DC) powerbank.. DP my bad. Have you validated what kind of watt you are able to deliver with your setup and if it's loyal to spec' hence 1000w. would be very easy to put a basic watt-screen in your big casing and also give you a good indication when its in fact heating and when your holding it ideally on the mark' as that can vary greatly and here that amp current-info value is a good indication, for when its done heating and close to topvalue as it will then start to go down' and you don't have to hang butt naked in no mans land, if its heated or not or start looking for glowing identification' that can be difficult to see under some scenarios.
sooo much better to simply buy an induction cooktop and transform it into a gun. Get one second-hand, it's commercial grade and often 1800W or more. Also you get power control built into it . . . these "build" videos just dont make sense
Those inductive heaters were just coming on the scene when I retired from being an automobile mechanic 11 years ago. Would have loved to try one. Being a Technician in Michigan, a torch is an essential tool.
Same here. We had one made by OTC. Was like $3500 back then. I was a full time mechanic in Wisconsin and it worked like a dream on brake fittings. Faster and safer than a gas touch.
pro tip to make this just a tad bit better, move the capacitors closer to the coil at the handle bar, the current resonates between capacitor and coil, only a little gets added by the mosfets, the way you have it right now, all the current is circulating in the cableling to the handle aswell! if the capacitors are right next to it, it will work better and be more efficent. also edit, at these frequencies (likely around 100khz, the more caps the lower the frequency) 10sqmm wire isnt the same as 10x1sqmm (skin effect) use multiple thinner strands.
You can certainly induction heat non-ferrous metals like brass aswell. While not as effective as iron or steel because of no heating due to hysteresis losses and relatively low resistance in the material itself, it's definitely possibly, what really matters is if the work piece is conductive or not.
This is great. These things are commercially available at a very high price. If memory serves they are called nut busters or something equally creative.
Not sure why I've never had the thought to build one of these. I can't tell you how many times I've anxiously used the torch in an area on a vehicle that I shouldn't have. Great video!
You could crimp a ring terminal onto your 24 volt output wire for connecting to the power supply and not have to "split" the wire, more secure connection as well. Nice job!
I am working on ways to switch the ZVS on and off. I have found two simple methods which need only low current/voltage (100mA range) to turn the driver on and off with a low-power bjt (TO-92) transistor. Testing will be finished in a few days. Thanks for the tip on the fiberglass sheathing. BTW: the output of the ZVS is PI x Vin. GREAT VIDEO!!!
not sure if were on teh same wavelength but i modified the ZVS itself with some 2n2222 drivers, slam the gates hard and keep them saturated. rather than the lousy 5w resistor they standardly use. problem with ZVS is they dont like suddenly changing component values. things like, perhaps, sticking large bolts into coils whilst running. that ALWAYS resulted in fets EXPLODING on me... no smoke. no heat. just shards of epoxy encapsulation suddenly sprayed across the room. putting stuff in the coil THEN powering up was fine. they only like steady constant loads. abrupt changes whilst running... BOOM.
I'm literally in the process of making my own. I got a 48v version and a big psu. And a 48v relay. Nice handle. I'll be stealing that. Mine heats up an m10 bolt I about 10 seconds. You I've got it so my psu is always on and then the relay applies the power to the circuit board when I press the button. The problem with leaving the circuit board constantly connected is in the few seconds it takes for the psu to fully turn on. The circuit kicks in, doesn't have enough power to start oscillating and pretty much makes a direct short and blows itself up. Just in case anyone is thinking of making their own.
I have had the same problem and the cure is t have an instant 24 volts available. A two stage relay is the cure. The first stage engages when the power supply turns on and the second engages when the voltage reaches 24 volts.
Seems to me that you could take a thrift store induction cooker (usually 1800w) and just run the output intended for the original coil to a handset/coil setup.
Looks like just the thing to remove the bolts holding a vintage pickup bed to the chassis - after fifty years the originals won't budge and better than a torch near the fuel lines. Just the perfect amount of demonstration and explanation too!
Hi mate. The buck converter was a bit of overkill where a single resistor would have done just as well. Great project, I like the fibre glass sleeve idea.
So basically you created an electrical short which heats up like a vehicles cigar lighter? A few years ago I rebuilt the suspension on my vintage truck, it took a week of torching, lubricating and using long cheater bar to break loose one big rusted 60 year old bolt on the panyard bar in freezing cold winter outside.
A cigar lighter heats up due to the coil resistance when 12vdc is applied, and it's coil is specifically made to withstand repeated heating. Induction heaters have no physical contact to the target material, and only heat up slightly. As seen in the video (17:50), the bolt reached nearly 800 deg F and the coil only 150 F.
Caution: One thing I have found is that some of these Chinese induction heaters use an IRFP064N (as well as IRFP260N) mosfets...these are only rated at 55v. With a 24v input, you will be applying over 75v to the mosfets, and they will blow! The 260's can handle an input to the ZVS driver of 60v. GREAT videos... how much trouble do you have with blown mosfets in your work???
Really love it. Watched my nephew a few weeks ago strip the head on his drain plug while refusing any advice. He couldn't have resisted a tool this cool though. Adding to the to do list now.
I like it! Very cool design. Living in the north eastern US, everything automotive is rusted solid in a matter of hours. If I made one myself, I'd like to integrate a momentary switch into the handle to throw the relay as I'd be afraid forgetting it was running might cause a meltdown.
Good video, I don't think though you need to be so precise with decimals when telling the temp since it doesn't look like you changed emissivity between IR measuring a shiny bolt and then the insulation. It is more like temp on bolt = "pretty hot", and the insulation "not so hot"
you could turn that into resistance heater gun if you make the target area coil with thinner wire, or really hot metal glue gun if you have heating target or metal wire passing through the center
Use pan head screws in your handle instead of flat head screws in countersunk holes. Those screws will split your housing. Either counterbore or build up walls around your screw heads.
This is a fantastic little tool. I could do with something similar when replacing the AFR sensor on the car. I would add protection to the Relay to prevent Back EMF from damaging the Buck Converter. Unfortunately this is not a good DIY project in Australia due to our laws about mains power and requiring a qualified electrical contractor to do any wiring. Unfortunately, no matter how talented someone is, this makes it prohibitive to do as DIY here. Thanks for the informative and well laid out presentation video. That insulation twisting trick works really well on finer gauge cable as well. I recommend it as not only does it twist the cable well, it avoids oils from the skin getting on the cables.
@@godfreypoon5148It sucks a bit, especially when I know what I am doing. Everything, whether it be a simple light switch or a full re-wire, needs a certificate from a 'qualified' electrician and is registered with the appropriate authority. That's the way it works in Australia. Even bloody putting a plug on an extension lead needs a qualified electrician, though most wont do it due to laws about needing molded plugs now.
@@EsotericArctos Ah, I thought you were referring to the garbage about non-sparky-ticket-persons not legally being able to touch anything that operates at mains voltages (i.e. appliance internals). This one they can enthusiastically install where the sun does not shine.
Great video mate, I was wondering if maybe you could make one of these that work of say a ready available 18v tool battery? It could maybe make a good video idea.
What are your thoughts RE: insulation on copper tubing in these designs? Do you have favorite brands? What about silicone-coated sleeves? Do you water-cool the tubing by circulating water through it? What about the diameter of the tubing? Is there an advantage/disadvantage to larger diameter copper tubing and why?
RE: 12V relay for 24V system, just measure the resistance of the coil and put a resistor of the same value in series with the coil. Make the resistor has the appropriate power rating though!! e.g. If the coil measures 200 ohm, put a 200 ohm/1W resistor in series.
Question: On your handle the square aluminium is exposed so what is the voltage across them and is there danger of electrocution ? I should of course preface that with "excuse my ignorance"
If I were to eliminate the ac/DC inverter and for example use an 18v milwaukee big battery pack wich is straight DC, would I need to put a register or anything other than a fuse in between the battery and Moffett for induction? I want to build a mobile version that uses my milwaukee battery's from work, I already have the battery socket piece to adapt straight into Moffett.
The wire connection between a 'gun' (handle) and the circuit, ist safe?, Coz it becone a coil it self, how about when you turn on the circuit and put a metal on it (cable) will it heat up???
i dont understand how u can change the coil without changing the caps... i suppose it would just change the working frequency but whats the ideal freq for these induction heaters? my homemade one seemed to be quite finnicky
Nice video, I've been thinking of making something similar for a while. One thing you could have done differently is use a resistor instead of that buck converter for the relay power supply, as you are going 24->12 you just need a resistor the same impedance as the relay coil in series (of sufficient wattage).
Might be just very slightly maybe beneficial to put the tank capacitance up there in the gun right close to the coil. (edited for a milder, more soothing tone)
Hey Clive what about modifying a potable induction cooktop to do the same thing by removing the induction element and connecting your modified gun/cable setup?
Alternatively you could have strung two relay's together in series for the coil and parallel for the contacts and doubled the amp rating of your control circuit or not hooked in the other relay up and effectively use it as a ballast.
New to induction since I got an induction cook top. I was curious if this was used for wheel bearing removal. And came across ur video. Just wondering how many coils needed to go over the 77mm hub that's rusted in. I'm learning this now to build one.
Reminds me of a farmer making a utility equipment! why go through all this work and just modify a induction table top heater! Just disconnect the factory coil and add your homemade ray gun! your done!
good morning dear friend... I love your presentations which are very profitable for everyone ... My most sincere congratulations for this excellent and kind work .. Good continuation
Hello fellow viewer its a glorious day for everyone who's still breathing this delicious air.. Your comment is very excellent and deserves a brief round of applause from everyone watching this... amazing ... video. ..... Lmao i cant continue this over joyous comment to make fun of Assad. its cramping my fingers and i hate everything...
Nice video!!! I have often thought of making this from an old induction kitchen oven; do you know if this is possible please? Where I live, sometimes old induction kitchen ovens with still functional plates are thrown away for other faults. I would very much be interested in you comments to this. Thanks.
You are talking about heating head of the bolt but you did not show heating the bolt head instead you are heating the whole bolt, why you did not put the bolt all the whey in like it is screwed into engine and then heated only head of the bolt sticking out ?
Yes. Induction heaters work by inducing an electric current (eddy current) in the work piece. It should heat aluminium or copper faster than steel or stainless. Keep your gold and silver rings well away from it, especially if on your finger. SERIOUSLY that is DANGEROUS!. Also, the cables leading up to the trigger should be twisted and held tight together or you will lose a lot of energy from magnetic loop losses.
I have a similar project (box of parts) pending where I selected to use "Litz" wire for a light and flexible heating coil cable that should be more efficient having less transmission loss. I'd like to hear your thoughts.
You mention that the coil doesn't get significantly hot - so why make it out of such thick copper ? A more tightly-wound coil of thinner copper would be easier to get into difficult places and onto protruding nuts.
You need to heat the nut not the bolt because heating expands the metal. I would need to try it, but i still think a torch is better for automobiles. There is situations it is critical you get the bolt out successfully without damaging the threads in the tapped hole. And if you melt the head of the bolt off, you're screwed. If there is something in the way that will burn, then remove it, or put heat shield between it and the heat.
I want to build an induction heater to heat 3' OD tubing to say 4-500 degree F, would that be possible? How would I have to step up your unit, and build myself a coil?
Tons of useful information here. Would you have any insight into what it would take to heat brass bar? Less turns on the coil? Higher frequency? edit: I know you mention in the end it won't heat brass, but induction heaters are used to anneal brass bullet casings, and used to heat copper pipe for creating clean solder joints. I would guess by the use of eddy currents?
While you certainly can use induction to heat those metals. The induction gun I built in the video has little on brass/copper. I think it's just not powerful enough. The manufacturer claims the unit is rated for 1000w. However, I've only got it to draw around 300w. If I stuffed the coil to the point it's bursting with metal then perhaps I'd be closer to the claimed 1000w. So in summery, I think a more powerful induction heater would be required for metals like copper/brass.etc Perhaps a future video?
@@Schematix I was looking at ads for these inverters and noticed that the more honest of the so-called 1000w units claim to be usable at 53volts. That tells me that it will only deliver ~1000w if you use a ~50v supply. It also suggests that at lower voltages you are unlikely to need a 20a capable supply - as your own measured 300w consumption confirms.
@@rhiantaylor3446 The induction heater I bought is rated for up to a max of 36v. So I think you'll be looking at a different model. I do feel that the power ratings are overinflated on most of these affordable induction heaters. And yes you probably could run a smaller SMPS. However, I prefer to run a 30amp SMPS @ 50% duty, rather than a 15amp SMPS @ 100% duty.
I am thinking you could use a repurposed soldering gun. If you could not 3D print one! You could wire in the trigger on it to control the induction heater 🧐
Hi, great video by the way. I was curious as to why the induction heater you built here is so much bigger than the commercially sold ones for automotive mechanics and I’ve seen the commercial ones work and they get both glowing within a minute or so.
Hi this video is some years old, but if you (or others) still read, I have a question about this.I have an induction stove with a broken glass top, can I connect two wires from the input on the induction element to a smaller coil to make it flexible, like yours? Or is it dangerous since it's 240 volts?
@@laconcongrelos4545 There is the danger of setting the gun down flat on a conductive surface and shorting it. Quick fix would be nylon bolts, "production" fix would be recessed screws with a plug cover, with only one on each side of the gun, OR, internally bonding the bus bars to the gun body with epoxy or other suitable adhesive.
@ schematix. ive been trying to source parts. the ZVS heater has a input voltage range of 12-30 volts and a current rating of 20 amps. You utilized a 24v 33amp power supply. i have only been able to source a 12 volt 33amp power supply. was there a reason electrically to use a 24 volt supply vs a 12volt? better functionality?
I have a question for you as you seem to know a lot about heating wire. I've seen many nichrome wire foam cutters on youtube, but nichrome wire stretches when heated and breaks after a bit. Is there a way to keep that wire from stretching and/or make it a bit stronger ? Can I for instance coat a hacksaw blade with nichrome coating and mount that between two bolts ?
I love the idea of this project BUT the problem seems to be that when looking at induction heaters on Amazon (which I presume are the same as Ebay), the reviews as to quality and reliability are quite poor. The better alternative is the induction heater you made from components, but a smaller version would be better suited to a workshop environment. Thoughts?
Theoretically yes, but I think it would be a somewhat large project. Impressive, nonetheless, and I'd like to see you try it. I'm fairly certain the old stove would tick all the right boxes on the periodic table.
I was going to implement this feature but decided against it for simplicity sake. If I was planning on using it regularly I definitely would have (I'm only going to use it probably 2 times a year)
@@Schematix I suppose the most complicated bit of including one would be sourcing a trigger switch and modifying the STL file for the handle. Other than that, add +12 and the trigger line to your wire bundle and you're done.
Did you ever find any formula to making your own coils for it, I know you recycled the original coil, i have been testing making my own coils out of standard 110v solid core I am causing the coil to heat up. how is your coil temp with nothing in it.? have you tried making smaller bolt sized coils? also your extension cable I found if it gets twisted up i pull more current and make eddy in the loop which isnt good..
If a bolt is stuck in a threaded hole, how would expanding it with heat make it come out??? Unless you first heat it up , then wait until it cools and hope the diff broke the bond...
You got it! As the threaded shank of the bolt heats up, it expands. If there is rust of other oxidation in the threads, it can be crushed by the expansion.Usually, the oxidation/corrosion can be a poor conductor of heat, which can keep the surrounding threaded hole from expanding along with the bolt. "Crunch" and the bond is loosened. Sometimes it can multiple applications to get it to work. Some folks squirt their favorite "juice" under the bolt after the first application of heat, then go at it again later.
You've nailed how it works. So in most situations, bolts are seized due to corrosion/rust. If you can break the corrosion you stand a much better chance of removing the bolt. As the bolt heats up, it "grows" and breaks free from the corrosion (hopefully). Most cases the bolt can be removed while it's hot. However, letting it cool can also work in your favor.
Verbal typo at 19:52. To clarify: THIS induction heater won't heat non-ferrous metals. It's just not powerful enough. For heating non-ferrous metals like alloy, brass.etc you need a more powerful induction heater and also the coil frequency plays a major role when heating non-ferrous metals. Sorry for any confusion! - SCHEMATIX -
Nice build.. I am a noob on the matter and its more the concept that appeals to me... so pick up a cheap edition that cost around 3.5USD and been playing with it the last couple of days,.
i.imgur.com/6lMr8mP.jpg
Was planning to make some recording with thermal to show how the heat transfers and I atm I run it on an adjustable power bank that tops out around 80watt, but for proof of concept and small metal pieces its work brilliantly..
form a 3.5USD product it is able to make fx a 5mmAllen Key completely red glowing, solely from a USB(DC) powerbank..
DP my bad.
Have you validated what kind of watt you are able to deliver with your setup and if it's loyal to spec' hence 1000w.
would be very easy to put a basic watt-screen in your big casing and also give you a good indication when its in fact heating and when your holding it ideally on the mark' as that can vary greatly and here that amp current-info value is a good indication, for when its done heating and close to topvalue as it will then start to go down' and you don't have to hang butt naked in no mans land, if its heated or not or start looking for glowing identification' that can be difficult to see under some scenarios.
I'm pretty sure it will heat up the brass and aluminium. Please do a follow up video testing it.
@@jameswright528 q
@@jameswright528 àbbaßongß
sooo much better to simply buy an induction cooktop and transform it into a gun. Get one second-hand, it's commercial grade and often 1800W or more. Also you get power control built into it . . . these "build" videos just dont make sense
Great job, 30g of steel from 20 to 400 grades C for 60 sec . Excellent power: 450J kg-1 K-1 for 60 sec = 5400J (Ws)/60sec= dizzying 90W.
Those inductive heaters were just coming on the scene when I retired from being an automobile mechanic 11 years ago.
Would have loved to try one.
Being a Technician in Michigan, a torch is an essential tool.
i still carry a blow torch (often i dont have access to power)
What!? It's not like you are driving around in salt water... Actually in Fl we do, but Yankeemobiles are rolling Rust.
Same here. We had one made by OTC. Was like $3500 back then. I was a full time mechanic in Wisconsin and it worked like a dream on brake fittings. Faster and safer than a gas touch.
Are u gay?
Yes they do work great on brake fittings
pro tip to make this just a tad bit better, move the capacitors closer to the coil at the handle bar, the current resonates between capacitor and coil, only a little gets added by the mosfets, the way you have it right now, all the current is circulating in the cableling to the handle aswell! if the capacitors are right next to it, it will work better and be more efficent.
also edit, at these frequencies (likely around 100khz, the more caps the lower the frequency) 10sqmm wire isnt the same as 10x1sqmm (skin effect) use multiple thinner strands.
You can certainly induction heat non-ferrous metals like brass aswell. While not as effective as iron or steel because of no heating due to hysteresis losses and relatively low resistance in the material itself, it's definitely possibly, what really matters is if the work piece is conductive or not.
Yep, you could even induction-heat salt water if you really really wanted to.
I think he said that didn't he? You would just need more heat.
Yup, you really want a lossy or slightly resistive conductor and it just happens that many ferromagnetic metals fit this description.
This is great. These things are commercially available at a very high price. If memory serves they are called nut busters or something equally creative.
$188, so you are saving something, but the parts he is using would cost well over $100.
👍👍👍👍👍
Not sure why I've never had the thought to build one of these. I can't tell you how many times I've anxiously used the torch in an area on a vehicle that I shouldn't have. Great video!
You could crimp a ring terminal onto your 24 volt output wire for connecting to the power supply and not have to "split" the wire, more secure connection as well. Nice job!
Yeah, they are over $400
I am working on ways to switch the ZVS on and off. I have found two simple methods which need only low current/voltage (100mA range) to turn the driver on and off with a low-power bjt (TO-92) transistor. Testing will be finished in a few days.
Thanks for the tip on the fiberglass sheathing. BTW: the output of the ZVS is PI x Vin.
GREAT VIDEO!!!
not sure if were on teh same wavelength but i modified the ZVS itself with some 2n2222 drivers, slam the gates hard and keep them saturated. rather than the lousy 5w resistor they standardly use.
problem with ZVS is they dont like suddenly changing component values. things like, perhaps, sticking large bolts into coils whilst running.
that ALWAYS resulted in fets EXPLODING on me... no smoke. no heat. just shards of epoxy encapsulation suddenly sprayed across the room.
putting stuff in the coil THEN powering up was fine. they only like steady constant loads.
abrupt changes whilst running... BOOM.
Good job, I like the project and the fact you kept the video simple. You did not waste time on explaining the entire theory.
I'm literally in the process of making my own. I got a 48v version and a big psu. And a 48v relay. Nice handle. I'll be stealing that. Mine heats up an m10 bolt I about 10 seconds.
You I've got it so my psu is always on and then the relay applies the power to the circuit board when I press the button.
The problem with leaving the circuit board constantly connected is in the few seconds it takes for the psu to fully turn on. The circuit kicks in, doesn't have enough power to start oscillating and pretty much makes a direct short and blows itself up.
Just in case anyone is thinking of making their own.
I have had the same problem and the cure is t have an instant 24 volts available. A two stage relay is the cure. The first stage engages when the power supply turns on and the second engages when the voltage reaches 24 volts.
would a capacitor large enough and rated for the voltage remedy this? it would be able to hold the charge and then release it on demand.
Good stuff. I love that everyone across the world speaks fluent Dremel :)
I highly recommend your clear presentation of this video .
Very clear voice , nicely done ✅
Thanks , keep up the good work
David Malik
Seems to me that you could take a thrift store induction cooker (usually 1800w) and just run the output intended for the original coil to a handset/coil setup.
that's what I'm going to try this afternoon...
@@grandenauto3214 so what happened ?
Talon Mckay it’s still sitting there waiting for me.... I’m going to do it!
@@grandenauto3214 tell us how it goes please.
Are you talking about a heat plate?
Looks like just the thing to remove the bolts holding a vintage pickup bed to the chassis - after fifty years the originals won't budge and better than a torch near the fuel lines. Just the perfect amount of demonstration and explanation too!
Glad to hear you found the video helpful :)
Brilliant idea. I was enthralled throughout this entire video. Subscribed!
Measure the resistance of the 12v relay coil, put an equal resistor in series with the coil, presto now you have a 24v relay.
can i use an automotive 12v relay for 110 vac at 2a on the contacts? also thanks for the tip
@@pipercolt1963 Most likely not a good idea, no!
Hi mate. The buck converter was a bit of overkill where a single resistor would have done just as well. Great project, I like the fibre glass sleeve idea.
Are you cooking that egg or deep frying it?
Kewis...... Need some pommes to cook a decent brekkie
Thought something similar
paused it as soon as the egg hit the frying pan to see if anyone else thought it lmao
@@andrewsmall6568 Apples!? With fried egg? Snorkers surely?
You can use the power suply as an induction heater after removing the rectfire and step down the transformer and making the resonator. Thanks.
So basically you created an electrical short which heats up like a vehicles cigar lighter? A few years ago I rebuilt the suspension on my vintage truck, it took a week of torching, lubricating and using long cheater bar to break loose one big rusted 60 year old bolt on the panyard bar in freezing cold winter outside.
A cigar lighter heats up due to the coil resistance when 12vdc is applied, and it's coil is specifically made to withstand repeated heating. Induction heaters have no physical contact to the target material, and only heat up slightly. As seen in the video (17:50), the bolt reached nearly 800 deg F and the coil only 150 F.
Caution: One thing I have found is that some of these Chinese induction heaters use an IRFP064N (as well as IRFP260N) mosfets...these are only rated at 55v. With a 24v input, you will be applying over 75v to the mosfets, and they will blow! The 260's can handle an input to the ZVS driver of 60v.
GREAT videos...
how much trouble do you have with blown mosfets in your work???
Really love it. Watched my nephew a few weeks ago strip the head on his drain plug while refusing any advice. He couldn't have resisted a tool this cool though. Adding to the to do list now.
I like it! Very cool design. Living in the north eastern US, everything automotive is rusted solid in a matter of hours. If I made one myself, I'd like to integrate a momentary switch into the handle to throw the relay as I'd be afraid forgetting it was running might cause a meltdown.
Good video, I don't think though you need to be so precise with decimals when telling the temp since it doesn't look like you changed emissivity between IR measuring a shiny bolt and then the insulation. It is more like temp on bolt = "pretty hot", and the insulation "not so hot"
you could turn that into resistance heater gun if you make the target area coil with thinner wire, or really hot metal glue gun if you have heating target or metal wire passing through the center
Use pan head screws in your handle instead of flat head screws in countersunk holes. Those screws will split your housing. Either counterbore or build up walls around your screw heads.
Just watched this , I must say, thank you very much ..... and now for the shopping list....... subscribed .keep up the good work , thanks again 👏👏👍
This is a fantastic little tool. I could do with something similar when replacing the AFR sensor on the car. I would add protection to the Relay to prevent Back EMF from damaging the Buck Converter.
Unfortunately this is not a good DIY project in Australia due to our laws about mains power and requiring a qualified electrical contractor to do any wiring. Unfortunately, no matter how talented someone is, this makes it prohibitive to do as DIY here.
Thanks for the informative and well laid out presentation video.
That insulation twisting trick works really well on finer gauge cable as well. I recommend it as not only does it twist the cable well, it avoids oils from the skin getting on the cables.
Ha. How about fck that regulation for a joke.
@@godfreypoon5148It sucks a bit, especially when I know what I am doing. Everything, whether it be a simple light switch or a full re-wire, needs a certificate from a 'qualified' electrician and is registered with the appropriate authority. That's the way it works in Australia. Even bloody putting a plug on an extension lead needs a qualified electrician, though most wont do it due to laws about needing molded plugs now.
@@EsotericArctos Ah, I thought you were referring to the garbage about non-sparky-ticket-persons not legally being able to touch anything that operates at mains voltages (i.e. appliance internals).
This one they can enthusiastically install where the sun does not shine.
Can this coil heat inner hole for make the hole more bigger??
Where did you get the main enclosure from?
Great product, seen these before and for mecahnics they're awesome. Seized bolts are a nightmare and saves you messing around with a torch
Great video mate, I was wondering if maybe you could make one of these that work of say a ready available 18v tool battery? It could maybe make a good video idea.
Nice project and presented very informative and entertaining. I can say in all honesty that I've learned something by watching your video.
Thanks for your encouragement! :)
What are your thoughts RE: insulation on copper tubing in these designs? Do you have favorite brands? What about silicone-coated sleeves? Do you water-cool the tubing by circulating water through it? What about the diameter of the tubing? Is there an advantage/disadvantage to larger diameter copper tubing and why?
RE: 12V relay for 24V system, just measure the resistance of the coil and put a resistor of the same value in series with the coil. Make the resistor has the appropriate power rating though!!
e.g. If the coil measures 200 ohm, put a 200 ohm/1W resistor in series.
I love ZVS drivers and induction heating!
Wonderful... Please, if it possible, share the STL file .
Nice work, but 80°c isnt anywhere near hot enough to remove a bolt here in the uk unfortunately
Question: On your handle the square aluminium is exposed so what is the voltage across them and is there danger of electrocution ? I should of course preface that with "excuse my ignorance"
If I were to eliminate the ac/DC inverter and for example use an 18v milwaukee big battery pack wich is straight DC, would I need to put a register or anything other than a fuse in between the battery and Moffett for induction? I want to build a mobile version that uses my milwaukee battery's from work, I already have the battery socket piece to adapt straight into Moffett.
The wire connection between a 'gun' (handle) and the circuit, ist safe?, Coz it becone a coil it self, how about when you turn on the circuit and put a metal on it (cable) will it heat up???
i dont understand how u can change the coil without changing the caps... i suppose it would just change the working frequency but whats the ideal freq for these induction heaters? my homemade one seemed to be quite finnicky
Nice video, I've been thinking of making something similar for a while. One thing you could have done differently is use a resistor instead of that buck converter for the relay power supply, as you are going 24->12 you just need a resistor the same impedance as the relay coil in series (of sufficient wattage).
Or, put a diode in series with the 24vac and half wave 24ac=12vdc
I appreciate the way you use the heat-shrink to close off the soldering. You never see that in these videos \m/
And then the crimp-joint XD - spot on
Might be just very slightly maybe beneficial to put the tank capacitance up there in the gun right close to the coil.
(edited for a milder, more soothing tone)
Hey Clive what about modifying a potable induction cooktop to do the same thing by removing the induction element and connecting your modified gun/cable setup?
Alternatively you could have strung two relay's together in series for the coil and parallel for the contacts and doubled the amp rating of your control circuit or not hooked in the other relay up and effectively use it as a ballast.
I thought about that myself.
New to induction since I got an induction cook top. I was curious if this was used for wheel bearing removal. And came across ur video. Just wondering how many coils needed to go over the 77mm hub that's rusted in. I'm learning this now to build one.
I have a portable induction cooktop that I don't use anymore. Do you think I could re-purpose it to make an induction gun?
have a simple question. is it possible to make such a heater from induction stove top?
Well, I'm going to try it - just using the power supply, the coil would be too cumbersome.
What was the total cost to build this? 1.5kw ones go for under $200 on ebay.
Sure. Maybe, maybe. Look here:
! New: Apocalypse Coilgun, Fallout Coilgun
ruclips.net/video/G9-jKWPyMFo/видео.html
See also: Portable Super Coilgun:
ruclips.net/video/rclLsQ9nyeg/видео.html&feature=youtu.be
ruclips.net/video/-mjDqp_oWZk/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/YLOYxsqvjw0/видео.html
Sure. Maybe, maybe. Look here:
! New: Apocalypse Coilgun, Fallout Coilgun
ruclips.net/video/G9-jKWPyMFo/видео.html
See also: Portable Super Coilgun:
ruclips.net/video/rclLsQ9nyeg/видео.html&feature=youtu.be
ruclips.net/video/-mjDqp_oWZk/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/YLOYxsqvjw0/видео.html
Reminds me of a farmer making a utility equipment! why go through all this work and just modify a induction table top heater! Just disconnect the factory coil and add your homemade ray gun! your done!
good morning dear friend...
I love your presentations which are very profitable for everyone ... My most sincere congratulations for this excellent and kind work ..
Good continuation
Hello fellow viewer its a glorious day for everyone who's still breathing this delicious air.. Your comment is very excellent and deserves a brief round of applause from everyone watching this... amazing ... video. .....
Lmao i cant continue this over joyous comment to make fun of Assad. its cramping my fingers and i hate everything...
A water pump with a heat exchanger would a be cool (no pun intended) addition
Superb!
Excellent video!
Very informative, no nonsense just pure information.
Thank you! :)
Yes indeed,
Excellent presentation and a nice clear speech .
Those Asians cold learn from this guy how to make videos .
Nice video!!! I have often thought of making this from an old induction kitchen oven; do you know if this is possible please? Where I live, sometimes old induction kitchen ovens with still functional plates are thrown away for other faults.
I would very much be interested in you comments to this. Thanks.
Where can I obtain that enclosure?
Induction heaters are able to heat up any conductive meterial. Not just magnetic materials.
You are correct, however, this induction heater isn't powerful enough to heat non-magnetic metals.
How much would something like this cost to make?
You are talking about heating head of the bolt but you did not show heating the bolt head instead you are heating the whole bolt, why you did not put the bolt all the whey in like it is screwed into engine and then heated only head of the bolt sticking out ?
Nice video and good explanations. I got a chuckle out of your shudder to mention an imperial dimension. You could have stated 12.7mm. LOL
Induction should work on any conductor even gold or graphite
Yes. Induction heaters work by inducing an electric current (eddy current) in the work piece. It should heat aluminium or copper faster than steel or stainless. Keep your gold and silver rings well away from it, especially if on your finger. SERIOUSLY that is DANGEROUS!.
Also, the cables leading up to the trigger should be twisted and held tight together or you will lose a lot of energy from magnetic loop losses.
Nick knows his stuff! Schematix should see this.
I have a similar project (box of parts) pending where I selected to use "Litz" wire for a light and flexible heating coil cable that should be more efficient having less transmission loss. I'd like to hear your thoughts.
You mention that the coil doesn't get significantly hot - so why make it out of such thick copper ? A more tightly-wound coil of thinner copper would be easier to get into difficult places and onto protruding nuts.
And here, we make an induction heater, using only a power supply, some 3d printed parts, and an induction heater.
Excellent teaching style sir.
You need to heat the nut not the bolt because heating expands the metal.
I would need to try it, but i still think a torch is better for automobiles. There is situations it is critical you get the bolt out successfully without damaging the threads in the tapped hole. And if you melt the head of the bolt off, you're screwed. If there is something in the way that will burn, then remove it, or put heat shield between it and the heat.
Could one use a power supply from an old desktop computer for this project?
I want to build an induction heater to heat 3' OD tubing to say 4-500 degree F, would that be possible? How would I have to step up your unit, and build myself a coil?
I have an induction hob with a smashed glass top. could the parts from the hob be used to make a induction heat gun?
Tons of useful information here. Would you have any insight into what it would take to heat brass bar? Less turns on the coil? Higher frequency?
edit: I know you mention in the end it won't heat brass, but induction heaters are used to anneal brass bullet casings, and used to heat copper pipe for creating clean solder joints. I would guess by the use of eddy currents?
While you certainly can use induction to heat those metals. The induction gun I built in the video has little on brass/copper. I think it's just not powerful enough. The manufacturer claims the unit is rated for 1000w. However, I've only got it to draw around 300w. If I stuffed the coil to the point it's bursting with metal then perhaps I'd be closer to the claimed 1000w. So in summery, I think a more powerful induction heater would be required for metals like copper/brass.etc Perhaps a future video?
@@Schematix
I was looking at ads for these inverters and noticed that the more honest of the so-called 1000w units claim to be usable at 53volts. That tells me that it will only deliver ~1000w if you use a ~50v supply. It also suggests that at lower voltages you are unlikely to need a 20a capable supply - as your own measured 300w consumption confirms.
@@rhiantaylor3446 The induction heater I bought is rated for up to a max of 36v. So I think you'll be looking at a different model. I do feel that the power ratings are overinflated on most of these affordable induction heaters. And yes you probably could run a smaller SMPS. However, I prefer to run a 30amp SMPS @ 50% duty, rather than a 15amp SMPS @ 100% duty.
@@Schematix It has to do with the frequency at which the induction is run at to which metals it will heat...
Do you think an old transformer welder would be a suitable power supply
I am thinking you could use a repurposed soldering gun. If you could not 3D print one! You could wire in the trigger on it to control the induction heater 🧐
Looks like you did just fine with that "inch" stock. Are you sure that's not 1/4" tubing? 😉
Great project....
Great video on this...Could you supply the dimensions of the main enclosure you used please?
link to the abs encloser or a size of it would be nice
Hi, great video by the way. I was curious as to why the induction heater you built here is so much bigger than the commercially sold ones for automotive mechanics and I’ve seen the commercial ones work and they get both glowing within a minute or so.
Reloaders use induction heaters for annealing brass cases all the time.
Can't tell if you were using the oil to lubricate the egg, or the egg to lubricate your oil...
Hi this video is some years old, but if you (or others) still read, I have a question about this.I have an induction stove with a broken glass top, can I connect two wires from the input on the induction element to a smaller coil to make it flexible, like yours? Or is it dangerous since it's 240 volts?
Can I just use a 100 watt solder gun?
Hello, what's type this power supply? Is possible to me make a frayed comercial whit this induction?
if it only heats metals that can stick to a magnet , then how does it heat gold powder and melt it to a button
I think screws holding terminals on the gun are live aren't they ?
That's only 24V. There is no danger.
@@laconcongrelos4545 but still not touching 24 v ac is better than touching it
@@laconcongrelos4545 There is the danger of setting the gun down flat on a conductive surface and shorting it. Quick fix would be nylon bolts, "production" fix would be recessed screws with a plug cover, with only one on each side of the gun, OR, internally bonding the bus bars to the gun body with epoxy or other suitable adhesive.
is this induction heater board self tuning? thanks, Doug
@ schematix. ive been trying to source parts. the ZVS heater has a input voltage range of 12-30 volts and a current rating of 20 amps. You utilized a 24v 33amp power supply. i have only been able to source a 12 volt 33amp power supply. was there a reason electrically to use a 24 volt supply vs a 12volt? better functionality?
I have a question for you as you seem to know a lot about heating wire. I've seen many nichrome wire foam cutters on youtube, but nichrome wire stretches when heated and breaks after a bit. Is there a way to keep that wire from stretching and/or make it a bit stronger ? Can I for instance coat a hacksaw blade with nichrome coating and mount that between two bolts ?
so i need to buy induction heater to make induction heater?
Gonna make one for my car workshop. It will remove easily bushings and old rusty bolts and nuts. better than using a torch. great video
Milthon Chambi - A propper one cost 400 dollars new .
luv the mousecateer ears whilst you were talking ----- sorry that's the background behind you.
haha, I noticed that.
I love the idea of this project BUT the problem seems to be that when looking at induction heaters on Amazon (which I presume are the same as Ebay), the reviews as to quality and reliability are quite poor. The better alternative is the induction heater you made from components, but a smaller version would be better suited to a workshop environment. Thoughts?
rough estimate on price of materials?
can I recycle an old stove to make this?
Theoretically yes, but I think it would be a somewhat large project. Impressive, nonetheless, and I'd like to see you try it.
I'm fairly certain the old stove would tick all the right boxes on the periodic table.
Can this technique be used with an electric welder?
A ON button on that gun would be really handy, expected to see one after seeing the relay.
I was going to implement this feature but decided against it for simplicity sake. If I was planning on using it regularly I definitely would have (I'm only going to use it probably 2 times a year)
@@Schematix I suppose the most complicated bit of including one would be sourcing a trigger switch and modifying the STL file for the handle. Other than that, add +12 and the trigger line to your wire bundle and you're done.
Did you ever find any formula to making your own coils for it, I know you recycled the original coil, i have been testing making my own coils out of standard 110v solid core I am causing the coil to heat up. how is your coil temp with nothing in it.? have you tried making smaller bolt sized coils? also your extension cable I found if it gets twisted up i pull more current and make eddy in the loop which isnt good..
Is it cheaper to just buy an induction cooker and get your parts from there?
Good idea. I also think same. But how to convert?
@@sys6350 que question ultimately is will the circuit have the wattage for it to work. I think it should be a matter of chaning the shape of the coil.
@@nelsonsiliezar3961 really good idea. If work it can save alot of money.
If a bolt is stuck in a threaded hole, how would expanding it with heat make it come out???
Unless you first heat it up , then wait until it cools and hope the diff broke the bond...
You got it! As the threaded shank of the bolt heats up, it expands. If there is rust of other oxidation in the threads, it can be crushed by the expansion.Usually, the oxidation/corrosion can be a poor conductor of heat, which can keep the surrounding threaded hole from expanding along with the bolt. "Crunch" and the bond is loosened. Sometimes it can multiple applications to get it to work. Some folks squirt their favorite "juice" under the bolt after the first application of heat, then go at it again later.
You've nailed how it works. So in most situations, bolts are seized due to corrosion/rust. If you can break the corrosion you stand a much better chance of removing the bolt. As the bolt heats up, it "grows" and breaks free from the corrosion (hopefully). Most cases the bolt can be removed while it's hot. However, letting it cool can also work in your favor.
Does anyone have an estimate of the prices of the materials needed to make this?