That's about how it went for me. I'd seen guys use varnish or nail polish to seal around the brass insert. That was the lock tite you saw. Thanks for all the work you did in trying to get it working right. And also for making a video on it. Also I'm thankful to you for everything you've done to provide information and help to the public on these old saws. Your IPL's and RUclips videos. I've learned a lot from it. So thanks.
Okay, I feel like a dumba$$ but I've figured this carb out! I appreciate all the comments and suggestions; they did help! The next video shows what was wrong, how I fixed it and a test run!
My dad once told me sometimes its easier to just find a replacement.. its satisfying to find the root cause of a problem and thats useful in solving problems later on .. many years ago when i was a young guy out of trade school. I went to work for gm as a line mechanic.. There was a engine that had a serious problem..The service representative told the shop forman to place a brick on the throttle, start the engine at the end of the day on the back lot . Come back in the morning and you will find the source of the knocking. Order a new engine.. ..Thanks for the video
If only homelite made those airboxes just little big bigger to work in. The xl 12 size box is perfect so somewhere in between for the super ez saws be great
Is it possible it has a crack somewhere and its letting in air? Any of the throttle or choke shafts leaking? Just an idea, really enjoyed the video! Looking into getting a Super Ez Auto sometime, nice to see one here.
Don’t you hate it when you spend so much time on what should be simple problem to fix but the problem still evades you ? Seems like the simplest things get overlooked. Is the idle fuel circuit path clear of obstruction? Is the idle needle the wrong one? (Taper improper) Is the packing disintegrated or hardened on the needle? Anyway thanks for the video
The problem with that is it can't be easily undone if that is done. And also could cause additional problems. If enlarge any hole I'd do the first one, nearest the outside of the carb. Low Idle is what needs correcting. The covered holes are not supplying fuel at low idle. At least that is how I understand it. I could be wrong.
I was just concerned about how the mid and hi circuits would operate if the factory made them all the same size....Chad you are correct...I would try idle hole first....or drill a small hole in the butterfly ....something has to work....
That's about how it went for me. I'd seen guys use varnish or nail polish to seal around the brass insert. That was the lock tite you saw. Thanks for all the work you did in trying to get it working right. And also for making a video on it. Also I'm thankful to you for everything you've done to provide information and help to the public on these old saws. Your IPL's and RUclips videos. I've learned a lot from it. So thanks.
Okay, I feel like a dumba$$ but I've figured this carb out! I appreciate all the comments and suggestions; they did help! The next video shows what was wrong, how I fixed it and a test run!
thats cool thankls
My dad once told me sometimes its easier to just find a replacement.. its satisfying to find the root cause of a problem and thats useful in solving problems later on .. many years ago when i was a young guy out of trade school. I went to work for gm as a line mechanic.. There was a engine that had a serious problem..The service representative told the shop forman to place a brick on the throttle, start the engine at the end of the day on the back lot . Come back in the morning and you will find the source of the knocking. Order a new engine.. ..Thanks for the video
Sometimes its best to just move on and acquire another part.
If only homelite made those airboxes just little big bigger to work in. The xl 12 size box is perfect so somewhere in between for the super ez saws be great
I need that diaphram and screen to fix my carb
On the bright side....the bar oiler is working.
I've seen similar symptoms when the first idle orifice is partially blocked.
When it idles on somewhat higher rpm then it runs on the second orifice.
Is it possible it has a crack somewhere and its letting in air? Any of the throttle or choke shafts leaking? Just an idea, really enjoyed the video! Looking into getting a Super Ez Auto sometime, nice to see one here.
Don’t you hate it when you spend so much time on what should be simple problem to fix but the problem still evades you ?
Seems like the simplest things get overlooked.
Is the idle fuel circuit path clear of obstruction?
Is the idle needle the wrong one? (Taper improper)
Is the packing disintegrated or hardened on the needle?
Anyway thanks for the video
I would enlarge the 3 holes equally....
That is easy for you to say.
The problem with that is it can't be easily undone if that is done. And also could cause additional problems. If enlarge any hole I'd do the first one, nearest the outside of the carb. Low Idle is what needs correcting. The covered holes are not supplying fuel at low idle. At least that is how I understand it. I could be wrong.
I was just concerned about how the mid and hi circuits would operate if the factory made them all the same size....Chad you are correct...I would try idle hole first....or drill a small hole in the butterfly ....something has to work....