I've used Accelerator for years now.. But I think that one of its downsides is it actually makes the ca glue more brittle as opposed to letting the ca air dry itself.. Also it wont really work by spraying it on to the carbon before hand, it will just evaporate !! It needs to be applied to the shaft or vane and then immediately put together..
For me, the process is usually put on CA glue first, spray the accelerator on the other side, then immediately put the object (with CA glue) on. Don't wait for the accelerator to be dried, otherwise, it will have no effect.
Agree with the general consensus, apply glue to the vane, spray and clamp. That said it does become more brittle. Nowadays my fletching routine is to do my arrows in the evening while relaxing in front of the TV at the end of a day. It becomes relaxing in itself that way. Almost a fletching Zen 😜🤣
Luthiers use CA glue with accelerator a lot when both building and repairing guitars. Their process is to do the glue-up and then spray the accelerator immediately afterwards. I’ve never seen them go outside to spray the accelerator, but they work in well ventilated environments. They also use the accelerator very sparingly.
Best glue on the market ive found so far for glueing vanes…stuff is amazing. Only use the accelerator sometimes because i feel it makes the glue more brittle and prone to cracking due to hardening it up
Jake...I used to "assemble" and "set-up" acoustic guitars for Washburn... We used CA glue AND accelerator all the time...but in your vid here, you're using it incorrectly.... You apply your glue and clamp it...THEN you "spritz" your vane with 1-3 squirts...and THAT'S it... We did this "at the bench" as we were using "ZIP KICKER" and it comes in a small "pump bottle"... NO aerosol spray can... it's just a small amount and a very focused spray... so.... get yourself some ZIP KICKER....No need to apply glue to one surface and accelerator to the other surface.... just glue it....clamp / set it...then 1-3 squirts....DONE....VERY fast... not any real need for "ventilated area'.... @BobDorfman is ABSOLUTELY correct.... I've "worked at" what he describes ;-) THIS...is EXACTLY what you're looking for restorationproduct.com/shop/zip-kicker/
How much time do you need to remove the clamp without using the accelerator? Using CA glue on carbon arrows with Elite Plastifletch or Wavs, I remove the clamp after a minute, proceed with the next vane and then with the third. Five minutes later the arrow can be used. If I have to go outside, spray the arrows and then back inside to glue them, no time saving at all for me.
I use accelerator all the time just the standard spray bottle stuff and I put my Fletch on like normal then give it a quick spray pull my clamp and onto the next one, I feel it holds better this way but still can move onto the next quicker
Also if you apply it like this I'd say use a deep container of baking soda dip your arrow in then tap off the residual , it's an accelerator also and no worries of acetone or other additives harming arrows
I use CA glue to put a high gloss finish on my wood pens. I apply the CA glue and then spray it with the accelerate. The CA glue dries almost instantly. However I spray very little. When I spray too much, I find the CA finish cracks.
I thought personally sprayed accelerator bthe accelerator blew your vein put it on not go outside spray and talk for a few minutes come inside talk for a few more minutes and then put the bane on I thought you sprayed it and done it right away like you couldn't wait
Thanks Jake. I use a lot of various kinds of CA for a decades and the best manufacturer is Starbond. CA is available from water thin up through gel. Best application would be with either medium for control in flèche application. The thin version will “wick” along a joint with a capillary action. If I was doing it and want more control, I would use disposable Samco #231 plastic micro Pipettes to apply the thin CA. With the pipette you can literally tape clamp a feather in place at the ends exactly where you want it, then apply a few drops at the middle and near the ends, but not at the ends. The CA will “wick” travel along the length of the quill base. You can see it. Just a little practice on a dowel will prove your control. Once the feather is fairly attached, remove the low tack tape, and CA the ends. Look at both sides of quill to make sure the CA wicked throughout the entire base of quill. Test your application on a wood dowel til you have timing figured out. CA starts setting due to ambient moisture. Have some CA remover for when you quickly glue your fingers to each other or arrow* Tip is that all the CA needs is vapor. Don’t spray til wet or it makes CA bubble. Safety ……. Anything with toluene or acetone are carcinogen through topical or respiration. Wear a gas/vapor mask.
I wonder if there are RUclips videos about hardware store glues that are easy, carbon shaft-friendly and reliable. Pro shops can be a drive away and postage takes time. Interested to know what my options are in a pinch.
I’ve never used that stuff but it seems like the ideal method would be spray outside, then immediately apply the feathers, no? The residue on the feathers from spraying after they were applied would prob bother me aesthetically.
Where I've used it after the fletch has been applied, the excess has become very rough, it would help if I was a little more frugal with the glue, so that there is less to get roughed up !
Hi Jake, something new... Vanes or feathers will straighten the arrowflight (faster). Pointweights affects shaft bending. Now, i shoot 50#, 29.5" arrowlength with spine 400, 120gn points. Shooting at distance 30 meters, my arrows are literally "falling down like a stone". Does a different point weight (100gn) affect that much? With the same spine shaft in relation to the shooting distance? When am I 'overpointed' ? Can this be shown on video?
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Bohning Air Vanes on 3DHVs, Bow is an Obsession Phoenix XL. Everything is in Tuning: me and myself first, the arrowrest (Midas 2)...
I've used CA accelerant while assembling resin parts, to speed up the drying. I've used "micro-brushes" (small sticks with a minute puff/brush on the end) to apply liquid accelerant from a bottle. This way, you have a lot of control over how much and where the accelerant is placed. Typically, you just touch the CA glue and the accelerant sort of crystallizes the glue from that point. Perhaps this would be a way to apply it in a controlled fashion, after attaching the vanes. (I hope this makes sense, if not just ask for more explanation). A big "Thank you!'" for all the info you share!
Jake are you going to review the new XD & Axia limbs?
I've used Accelerator for years now.. But I think that one of its downsides is it actually makes the ca glue more brittle as opposed to letting the ca air dry itself.. Also it wont really work by spraying it on to the carbon before hand, it will just evaporate !! It needs to be applied to the shaft or vane and then immediately put together..
For me, the process is usually put on CA glue first, spray the accelerator on the other side, then immediately put the object (with CA glue) on. Don't wait for the accelerator to be dried, otherwise, it will have no effect.
Agree with the general consensus, apply glue to the vane, spray and clamp. That said it does become more brittle. Nowadays my fletching routine is to do my arrows in the evening while relaxing in front of the TV at the end of a day. It becomes relaxing in itself that way. Almost a fletching Zen 😜🤣
Luthiers use CA glue with accelerator a lot when both building and repairing guitars. Their process is to do the glue-up and then spray the accelerator immediately afterwards. I’ve never seen them go outside to spray the accelerator, but they work in well ventilated environments. They also use the accelerator very sparingly.
GORILLA GLU all the way.
BSI accelerator is better. It can be used indoors with normal ventilation.
Best glue on the market ive found so far for glueing vanes…stuff is amazing. Only use the accelerator sometimes because i feel it makes the glue more brittle and prone to cracking due to hardening it up
Next test would be to use water and baking soda as an accelerator. Perfectly safe for nocks, can be used indoors.
Jake...I used to "assemble" and "set-up" acoustic guitars for Washburn... We used CA glue AND accelerator all the time...but in your vid here, you're using it incorrectly.... You apply your glue and clamp it...THEN you "spritz" your vane with 1-3 squirts...and THAT'S it... We did this "at the bench" as we were using "ZIP KICKER" and it comes in a small "pump bottle"... NO aerosol spray can... it's just a small amount and a very focused spray... so.... get yourself some ZIP KICKER....No need to apply glue to one surface and accelerator to the other surface.... just glue it....clamp / set it...then 1-3 squirts....DONE....VERY fast... not any real need for "ventilated area'.... @BobDorfman is ABSOLUTELY correct.... I've "worked at" what he describes ;-) THIS...is EXACTLY what you're looking for restorationproduct.com/shop/zip-kicker/
How much time do you need to remove the clamp without using the accelerator? Using CA glue on carbon arrows with Elite Plastifletch or Wavs, I remove the clamp after a minute, proceed with the next vane and then with the third. Five minutes later the arrow can be used. If I have to go outside, spray the arrows and then back inside to glue them, no time saving at all for me.
I use accelerator all the time just the standard spray bottle stuff and I put my Fletch on like normal then give it a quick spray pull my clamp and onto the next one, I feel it holds better this way but still can move onto the next quicker
Also if you apply it like this I'd say use a deep container of baking soda dip your arrow in then tap off the residual , it's an accelerator also and no worries of acetone or other additives harming arrows
I use CA glue to put a high gloss finish on my wood pens. I apply the CA glue and then spray it with the accelerate. The CA glue dries almost instantly. However I spray very little. When I spray too much, I find the CA finish cracks.
I thought personally sprayed accelerator bthe accelerator blew your vein put it on not go outside spray and talk for a few minutes come inside talk for a few more minutes and then put the bane on I thought you sprayed it and done it right away like you couldn't wait
My local shop has these vanes, this pleases me.
Thanks Jake. I use a lot of various kinds of CA for a decades and the best manufacturer is Starbond.
CA is available from water thin up through gel. Best application would be with either medium for control in flèche application. The thin version will “wick” along a joint with a capillary action.
If I was doing it and want more control, I would use disposable Samco #231 plastic micro Pipettes to apply the thin CA. With the pipette you can literally tape clamp a feather in place at the ends exactly where you want it, then apply a few drops at the middle and near the ends, but not at the ends. The CA will “wick” travel along the length of the quill base. You can see it. Just a little practice on a dowel will prove your control. Once the feather is fairly attached, remove the low tack tape, and CA the ends. Look at both sides of quill to make sure the CA wicked throughout the entire base of quill.
Test your application on a wood dowel til you have timing figured out. CA starts setting due to ambient moisture.
Have some CA remover for when you quickly glue your fingers to each other or arrow*
Tip is that all the CA needs is vapor. Don’t spray til wet or it makes CA bubble.
Safety ……. Anything with toluene or acetone are carcinogen through topical or respiration. Wear a gas/vapor mask.
Ah. I see. Faster fletching but my arrows speed remains the same? Bugger 😉
I wonder if there are RUclips videos about hardware store glues that are easy, carbon shaft-friendly and reliable. Pro shops can be a drive away and postage takes time. Interested to know what my options are in a pinch.
I built RC airplanes and use CA first then use the accelerator. I find it interesting it works both way before and after.
I glued my first set of arrows, with gorilla glu.. used those arrows about 10 minutes after gluing the last arrow.. still perfect.
I’ve never used that stuff but it seems like the ideal method would be spray outside, then immediately apply the feathers, no? The residue on the feathers from spraying after they were applied would prob bother me aesthetically.
I’ve used the accelerator that comes in the pen version that can be done while the arrow is on the jig. So no spray can.
Where I've used it after the fletch has been applied, the excess has become very rough, it would help if I was a little more frugal with the glue, so that there is less to get roughed up !
Can these vanes be stuck on with fletch tape?
I’ve not tried it personally but most likely.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Got some Wav Pro ordered, will give it a go and report back. Will dot fronts and backs with glue, just to be sure.
You don’t need nearly that much accelerator. A little goes a long long way.
Yeah I’ve found that out. Never used it before.
Hi Jake, something new... Vanes or feathers will straighten the arrowflight (faster). Pointweights affects shaft bending. Now, i shoot 50#, 29.5" arrowlength with spine 400, 120gn points. Shooting at distance 30 meters, my arrows are literally "falling down like a stone". Does a different point weight (100gn) affect that much? With the same spine shaft in relation to the shooting distance?
When am I 'overpointed' ? Can this be shown on video?
What vanes or feathers are you shooting at that distance? And what kind of bow
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Bohning Air Vanes on 3DHVs, Bow is an Obsession Phoenix XL. Everything is in Tuning: me and myself first, the arrowrest (Midas 2)...
What do you mean "falling like a stone"? Are they even making the target? Or all hitting very low?
I've used CA accelerant while assembling resin parts, to speed up the drying. I've used "micro-brushes" (small sticks with a minute puff/brush on the end) to apply liquid accelerant from a bottle. This way, you have a lot of control over how much and where the accelerant is placed. Typically, you just touch the CA glue and the accelerant sort of crystallizes the glue from that point. Perhaps this would be a way to apply it in a controlled fashion, after attaching the vanes. (I hope this makes sense, if not just ask for more explanation). A big "Thank you!'" for all the info you share!