I installed the EGR cable and my economy went through the roof and the power is amazing, my engine is finally awake, for $80 it's brilliant, no faults on the dash, love it, and also get a throttle controller, you won't believe the difference in your car.
MrIsak786 In Germany you not only loose any warranty by the manufacturer, you also loose all insurance coverage when you manipulate EGR rates. Not to speak about NOx emissions. California e.g does real live over the street measuring of exhaust gases, e.g with IR-beams and reports it by cameras directly to the DMV, that's why they found the VW cheating - by the way, as brand new cars were always measured as "Polluter"! So take care what you do with your car and what is legal! Simply use Diesel cars normally with maximal 2/3 of full gas, this will first reduce particle production at there fore reduce particulate filter clogging, so you exhaust won't work against the engine, it will also reduce heat and with less heat less NOx build up and therefore will reduce AGR rate and is by the way completely legal, and saves you diesel fuel additionally.
Brit, I just bought a vw sportswagen dti 2015. And just subscribed to your channel. I'm really enjoying all the information and learning so much on tuning on these smaller diesel engines. Being a heavy duty technician for so many year's this vehicle is my retiement gift to enjoy and play with for year's to come! Cheers...
Thanks TheLsdAddicted The best way to prevent turbo and egr faults is to make sure you rev it and keep it over 2500rpm, this way the turbo engages and runs long enough to spit out almost all deposits......2.2cdi, over 400k miles, still original egr and turbo, still pulls like a monster for a 116hp engine on an almost 2t vehicle
Bisogna tenere la geometria variabile del turbo aperta, seconda e terza marcia in città, 2500 giri al minuto. Purtroppo stanno imponendo il limite di 30km h e secondo me vorrebbero che le persone andassero o in bicicletta o con il bus😂 il cambiamento climatico😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂😂😂
On my 4jj1 it was a case of a 6k ohm resistor replacing the iat sensor to electronically shutoff the EGR solenoid (doesn't affect air:fuel ratios on my engine as it is determined via the maf and map sensor). Next a blanking plate on the exhaust side of the EGR cooler. Then clamp the coolant hoses on the cooler. Next step is blanking plate on the solenoid side. After that install a catch can or vent to atmosphere. Then finally do a proper intake manifold clean and your car will love you to bits.
I have a RZ4E engine and eliminated the EGR by ECU modification and put a blank plate to the exhaust side of the EGR cooler. Why to put another blank plate and why to clamp off the coolant hoses?
I have a diesel SH forester and to prevent soot build up is to not use it on short trips but if you do then stay in 2nd or third gear around town to make engine work harder and revs stay higher. Diesel engines as we know are designed to travel huge distances like lorries/trucks do. This is what I was told by a seasoned Subaru mechanic.
Saggio consiglio, in città si usa molto la seconda e terza marcia, motore al giusto regime, pochi problemi. Ma appena possibile, è bello fare lunghe percorrenze, guidare una Subaru rende felici, purtroppo la questione del DPF e del CVT ha intaccato il piacere di guida. In Europa stanno creando limitazioni assurde. E penso anche da voi
The air temperature plug he was talking about can generate fault codes, instead just place a 3.6ohm resistor on the blue/black wire to trick the temp sensor without changing the flow sensor
Did some work on a BMW 335D and the inlet manifold had so much carbon build up, i think the EGR system is so stupid, im glad my friend did the EGR delete but cleaning the intake manifold took a full day. Its a pain cleaning all the carbon build up
The best way to prevent turbo and egr faults is to make sure you rev it and keep it over 2500rpm, this way the turbo engages and runs long enough to spit out almost all deposits......2.2cdi, over 400k miles, still original egr and turbo, still pulls like a monster for a 116hp engine on an almost 2t vehicle
Fact dude these modern engines need to be driven on no faffing around driving them handy is death to them, ppl are too conserved with mpg so they accelerate like granny's and keep the revs low, death to the engine
I have a MK5 Golf 2.0 GT TDI! I had the engine management light on and displaying emissions fault! I basically stripped off the EGR valve and throttle body and cleaned them both using white spirit! Reassembled everything and engine management light disappeared!!
I put an egr blank on my 3.2 4m41 from new . no probs ever .. less than 2 mm build up of soot at 222000 kms when I dismantled to do Tappett adjust and new timing chain guide. I also have been using Penrite hpr 15w 40 engine oil from new changing every 7500 kms instead of 5 w 30 as recommended....Zero chain guide wear noted .i think the key is thicker oil to decrease oil misting and limit or stop the egr.
Don’t know about the Tritons but on the pajero the thermistor in the MAF is only used by the EGR. There’s a second temp sensor on the manifold that is used for all the other stuff.
Hi good information, I had a engine management light & restricted performance on my 2.7d xf jaguar, I was fed up with my car I was ready to sale it, my mechanic cleaned the air flow sensor, air filter box & pipes, sprayed Wynns egr valve turbo and inlet manifolds cleaner down the intake, blanked off the egr with blanking plates and finally retuned my ecu which increase my bhp by about 40hp and cleared fault codes. I took my car on the motorway for a clean out, Wow best visit ever to a mechanic my car runs beautifully 70000 miles on the clock, mpg is about 32, take off is smooth but the magic happens once rolling the pull/pick-up is awesome. I would never sale my car now.
I have a VW CFCA T5 Trsnsporter. I’ve just blanked my EGR cooler with a Tafmet system bypass unit. Works a treat makes the engine a lot cooler. Had to do it as with the EGR in the CFCA fail and send shards of the cooling fins into the engine.
Same let her warm.up , turbo cool down b4 switch off, change gears at 2000 but every now and then flog her thru the gears blow all the shit out the back 👍🏻
PocketRocket1 I have a 2.0 tdi i just wanna know how to keep it running as good as when I bought it. What do you mean thrashing? Like take it out and floor it?
@@birdvalenchez Yes. It's just as if you were doing an "Italian Tune Up", like back when people would really wind out the gears before shifting, in order to blow the carbon off the valves of their often Italian, sports cars, but in this case, you'd be blowing the sticky build up out of your EGR valve and intake manifold. You may even see a few big puffs of black smoke coming out of your exhaust, as globs of the sticky mess detach and recirculate through the engine. For automatic transmissions, you can just shift manually. If for some reason, you are unable to shift manually, you can accelerate up a steep hill, so the automatic transmission has no choice, but to shift at higher rpm's.
I bought a SAAB 93 1.9TDI a couple of years ago and in just a few weeks, it went into Limp mode and upon inspection, I saw that there were these weird things hanging out of their holes, and the holes were so badly worn, that they were fairly much rounded off squares and egg shaped instead of circular. I had to replace the inlet manifold and the EGR valve was clogged up to buggery. Im not a diesel mechanic, Im not any kind of mechanic if I am honest and so I got my mate to sort it out. The engine light kept coming back every time we clear it ( still does ) and so, as a suggestion, what we did at first was simply blank it off... then he suggested drilling a small hole, so I put an 8mm hole into the blanking plate, then a 10mm and now its got a 12mm hole. I have, for the last month maybe a bit more, been using the best diesel that I can get locally and that is Shell optimax, and this has done 3 things that have made me decide to never go back to cheaper fuel. 1 - My car is purring like a very contented kitten 2 - It is all of a sudden doing hugely better mileage per gallon 3 - Buying the expensive fual has saved me a small fortune already In fact, while filling the tank was 17 quid more expensive than the Supermarket crud I was using previously, ( Thats a shocker I admit ), my mileage has shot up and so instead of filling the tank every 5 or 6 days, I am already on day 7 and I still have well over half a tank of fuel left. The engine warning light is still there but it is early days, plus, I have the 12mm hole and so I am going to just take the plate off completely and see how it goes from there! - I will reset the warning light, it always comes back after only a mile or two, but lets see if it stays off for any longer... Again, Im not expefcting miracles, but I certainly have had them in this last month or so. Anyway, what I am saying is that to not have your engine fill up with sooty crap, just stop buying cheap supermarket fuel and splash out on good quality fuel... It will be much better in the long run. I used to put Shell in every 4th or 5th tank, just to treat it, but now Im putting nothing but the best in. I know that many say that it makes no real difference and sure, that may well be true in most cases, but it has albsolutely made a massive difference to my car... It now runs smooth, quiet, cleaner, and is cheaper to run. Oh and one thing I do admit to, is that the first time, I did put in a bottle of redex Diesel treatment into the tank.
Question my zafira 1.9 cdti was hissing after blanking at the top , so blanked it at the manifold aswell did a oil change 5w -30 car was running good till today when i heard a big Puff sound lost power and its ticking while driving like a lollipop stick against a moving bike wheel ,I inspected it its blew the manifold blanking plate gasket and black Soot is on my engine ,I'm back to square 1 any help please ?
Gli additivi per il gasolio del brand tedesco Tunap fanno miracoli sui motori diesel, tunap183 e gasolio Q8 fanno miracoli❤ complimenti per il bel motore Fiat montato sulla Saab❤
The cable adds resistance to the air temp for EGR to keep it closed, that's its only function. The MAF has a separate temp sensor for all air fuel mixtures on most modern diesels .
Mass air flow(for operation related to egr valve)read air flow difference between open and closed egr valve and that is only how ecu monitor egr flow.Air temperature sensor is only for air what is comming in engine..
BTW that dongle obviously wouldn’t have a capacitor inside. They usually have resistors to reduce the standard 5 volt signal down to a level that tricks the ECU...but as noted, while it might trick EGR activation it’s also feeding incorrect IAT data which will affect fueling...bad idea, especially on later models.
Hi Brett, my understanding of these engines is the charge air inlet temperature sensor that is used by the ecu for precise fuel delivery is downstream of the turbo due to temp differences created by the turbo. The temp sensor as part of the mas is for the EGR only and the module/resistor just fools the ecu that the air is extremely cold and thus keeping the valve closed in all operating parameters except for lift off where excess intake pressure is vented to exhaust. The only real difference from factory ( apart from it being illegal) is that the charge air is now entirely air, and not a mixture of air and exhaust gases, which results in a slightly leaner mix..ok for diesels, not ok for petrols as they will run too hot. The Egt is not really effected by this mod. The best solution is your remapping of the ecu but for the home mechanic who has cleaned his own inlet manifold the EGR off module and a catch can is a pretty good and safe solution
@@jackthornton3496 yes the 'egr off module' or cable delete as you call it for the Mitz engines, i have a Pajero, is an effective solution for these prone intake blocking motors. I took the intake off and cleaned before doing this years ago and running faultless with good power and economy since. Interestingly when these engines are suffering chocked inlets the soot and nitrous oxide emissions go through the roof defeating the original reasons behind Egr. Not to mention poor performance and bad fuel economy, and the dreaded Mil (money light). Engineering gone wrong it seems!
@@ajcuthy1945 Engineering gone wrong Lol with an EGR it reduces clean air and replaces it with dirty non air 50%( and that's wasting fuel because more right foot is needed,to make the same power and an added bonus a dirtier engine Lol
@@jackthornton3496 yep spot on...a feedback loop that chocks the intake at an ever increasing rate. Also its an expensive exercise to have a mechanic pull everything off an clean it. A defibrillator may be required when presented the bill😁. Having done it myself its a big job as everything is bolted to the intake manifold including the common rail. The intake runners in the head are almost impossible to clean as well. Best to fit erg off and catch can from new I'd suggest.
In the last five to ten years the reliability of turbos (for diesel or gasoline engines) have improved measurably but being such a precise component their life expectancy is still limited, with the repairing (good luck finding someone with that knowledge) or replacement cost I believe would be fairly expensive.
Bull. There was nothing more reliable than a 2.4 D Toyota engine of the 80's, or the 2.5 D Isuzu engine. And that Isuzu engine used less diesel than the best of today. Some of the newer engines, like the Ford 3.2, can not even be fixed. Not that the 3.2 is a Ford engine.
You could probably make your own, very large catch can using a toilet roll in a good sealed screw top container, cheap to make and cheap to throw away the old toilet roll.
By the time you take off pipes, make and add blanks, you could have cleaned the egr and achieved another 50,000 trouble free miles without trying to reinvent the wheel.
and if you get rid of the EGR you don't have to do the job more than once..... not every year or two cleaning everything out... Also better fuel economy, more power to the wheels,
@@qwertyui90qwertyui90 except in most places you have to replace it before vehicle inspection as the emissions test will return a failure. Better just keeping it clean, as it will do itself if you drive a diesel properly.
@@johnb8956 YEAH, NAH. Exhaust is cleaner without the EGR, i get a better testing score without the egr, also better fuel economy and the engine inlet isn't choking on soot.
Get rid of the EGR and the particulate filter. Diesel comes from the ground, refined from one of natures products. Its only right the exhaust is given back to nature once the diesel is used.
Crisp mods do a plug in solution. Works fine for me. Temp sensor in the maf sensor controls egr only. Fueling is controlled by other sensors. A good catch can is good too.
Patrick Sproule Well said fellas, this is my exact understanding too. I have taken the inlet off my Pajero and cleaned it and I can tell you its a difficult complex job for the non mechanic with many bits to be removed and rubber fingers required. Involves removing injector lines and common rail and replacing copper washers etc. The black shit downstream of the EGR was significant causing restrictions particularly at the elbow. Researched this problem intensely and have installed quality oil Catch can and EGR off module. Ecu remapping is definitely an option as Bret is offering but it's 1: not for the do it yourself mechanic. 2: much more expensive. The only issue for the EGR off module is that is does not allow for no exhaust gas in the air mix calculations or charge air and fueling is slightly lean. This perfectly ok for diesel engines being the opposite of petrol where lean mix creates excessive exhaust gas temps. In the real world the engine performance is as good or better with slightly improved fuel economy now without the intake blocking problems. New oil stays significantly cleaner for longer.
just get a blanking plate but leave the egr valve in place ,then get a basic remap and they will usually delete the prog that powers the warning light and the egr cycle cost me £150 uk pounds plus a couple of pounds for the blanking plate ,you get a slight heat increase but its running like a bird on my landy 110 tdci 2.4
I have'nt watched it yet, but this could be one of your highest viewed videos yet, if the content is good. This is one of those topics I have been looking forward to hearing your input on. whats your thoughts on the blanking plugs for the egr? worth doing?
Block the EGR. put in a tiny resistor of the value you need to make it not throw a code... done. Then plug it all back together hiding the resister within the plug. and put the EGR back on, but with a gasket with no hole in it so the exhaust gas can't be recirculated. EGR = Engine killers
@@matthewfarrell317 I understand it stops the oil but once the oil mixes with the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) at the inlet manifold both mixtures turn into soot buildup...
ive blanked off a couple of ERG's now, run better, cleaner, better MPG and no valve jamming and no dash lights, the euro emissions are so stringent that engines are choking in dirty intake air via exhaust manifold recirculation, take plate off for MOT if needed,
If the soot has no where to stick, like oily inlet manifolds, it passes straight through the engine without issue, politeness stops you looking like an idiot.
whorayful you clearly know squat about soot. Buy a nice politically correct expensive diesel for your self and try that trick. Then get back to me in 500k or less when you realize how foolish that statement is on diesels.
Bradford Ramm I did try that trick and it’s working great. Straight from factory I fitted both oil catch can and secondary fuel filter/water separator and I haven’t had a single drama. We all know the new emissions controls they put in place are shit, but if you do the correct things to counter them, they won’t cause any issues
I defer to your obvious superior knowledge, I offer my inferior experience in deference. Personal drives, 1983 Mitsubushi 4D55 diesel, owned for around 7 years about 120,000K, 1990 Toyota 2L diesel owned for round 20 years, 260,000K, 2004 Kia Pregio diesel owned around 10 years, 120,000K currently have a 2010 Hyundai CRDi 80,000K. Did I mention I worked for Detroit Diesel for over 20 years from the late 70's thru 2000s? They were the Australian agents for GM, Isuzu, Perkins and numbers of other brands. So you are correct I obviously have no idea what I'm talking about. Tool.
I have deleted my E.G.R on a 2003 TDi direct injection, with 127, 900 miles on it why? because it was clogging up and causing too many issues.M.A.F sensor going down and Turbo not working correctly. Since deleting my E.G.R I have had no issues and it passes the emissions test yearly for over 4 years now. I just disconnected the vacuum hose off the actuator and plugged it with a small bolt and job done so simple, no more clogging up with carbon preventing the butterfly valve from closing and opening correctly to the point I could not start the engine. For my next emissions test I shall reconnect the vacuum hose onto the actuator and see what difference it makes to be reconnected.
If you can name "all" the other problems that the plug causes, I'd be more inclined to listen. I installed a resistor of the correct value to fool the ECU, cost me less than 10c and half an hour. Car's been running perfect for 4 years, fuel economy didn't change, no soot in the inlet.
Mess with the EGR and your engine will no longer know the gas composition in cylinder. You could end up in limp mode but will certainly have higher emissions than your vehicle was tested at. EGR cleaning IMO is a serviceable and plannable maintenance item. The engines should be designed for easier maintenance in this department. I had a sticky EGR valve and from 2200 to 2800 RPM performance was dreadful. The ECU reported Implausible EGR values and it seemed to me that I was getting backpressure from unburned fuel hitting my DPF. A $2 OBD scanner confirmed that it wasn't opening and closing when expected. Best $2 I spent. I have 250,000 KM on my little 1.1L Hyundai.
i have a jeep commander diesel. i have had the dpf cleaned out professionally but now it wont turn over and run., there is pressure and fuel, tried a jump kit, but it starts and just peters out. wont idle. thoughts ?
This is the result of deliberate excessive EGR strategy of operation in combination with crank case blow by recirculating back to the intake manifold. All of this is only to achieve reduced NOX emissions, rather than a better or reliable engine.
That is incorrect. EGR is not just for emissions, it actually increases the efficiency of the engine when power is not demanded. You need to read up on the way EGR changes the volumetric efficiency of each cylinder by pumping inert exhaust gases back into the cylinder when power is not demanded from the engine.
Aussie. You guys more clever than us Europeans who was pushed into dervs/ diesels. Odd even think diesel a thing in Aussie. Guess it is , trucks larger pick ups.
$1500 just to clean something that comes off by removing 4 bolts, that's ridiculous. I have an MQ 60k service coming up I may take it off and have look not that there is anything wrong with the EGR. What model do have and dis you take a video?
So reprogramming the Engine ECU is the best way to fix the problem of soot build-up? Can one assume that your reprogramming of the ECU will not introduce other issues, and you provide a written guarantee that any issues which may arise will be repaired by you, even up to repair or replacement of an engine which has a catastrophic failure as a result of the reprogram?
i rum all my diesels with a taste of fully synthetic two stroke oil in them ,, never ever had a pick of bother only a taste ,, about 150 to 1 ish ,, , infact , i run all my petrols the same too.
tom thompson , sounds interesting! I got Holden 4x4 1996 TD. I suspect there is sutt issues... Could you please elaborate on the " taste" and the measurements for that, was that 150 millilitre to 1 liter,...or ounces,... ? And would you mix it in with the fresh mineral oil that is in the motor?... Thank you🙂
My Chinese ute engine magagement software only available at dealership workshops..I get random unwarned stoppages to do particle filter burns..and occassional random beeping
Geese its pretty simple!! The way u explained it nearly confusing yourself 3-4 times over the 4 min it took u to explain it doesn't make it seem simple lol wouldn't want you to give me directions if I was lost haha
New to diesels,, Bought a 3ltr ,t. 2007.. 260 000 K,s.. This soot build up has me worried.. With EGR you get soot.. How does a tune , more power and taucht stop sooting..?? Does it increase fuel economy..??
In theory, blanking off an EGR might affect emissions - but doesn't it occur to you that feeding air contaminated with CO2, CO, and soot into an engine is going to make it burn the fuel less efficiently - so increasing pollution? Further, the annual Ministry of Transport test for all vehicles in the UK sets very stringent limits on emissions. After I blanked off the EGR on my car, it passed the MoT test every year for the following fice years (40,000 miles) until I scrapped it due to body rot. Driving an unroadworthy vehicle in the UK invalidates your insurance, but high levels of emissions don't make the car unroadworthy - the laws that you're breaking relate purely to emissions.
I’ll give you short version of what should be done and what shouldn’t. Don’t ever let anyone ‘chip or remap’ your ecu, if it goes wrong you then have to hope that same person or garage can deal with it. Don’t delete or blank the egr as it cools the combustion temperature as well as other things. Most definitely fit a good quality catch can/separator as this will prevent the sludge buildup.
Reply to Dino Shed - See my comments above - following on - I removed my 2007 C4 Picasso inlet manifold and scrapped away at it and removed approx 1ltr of oily crud - unbelievable - its now soaking in DPF filter solution to try and remove crud trapped in internal nooks etc, ideas anyone? Dino - your solution to fit an extra/post market oil separator is I think a good idea cos my crankcase PCV floppy diaphragm had cracked in several places making it inoperative ( Q how does this work) which must have contributed dramatically to the oily/carbon mix build-up in the inlet manifold - where can you get one of these oil separators I suppose it is not unlike the demister in an oil industry separator vessel - the bigger the vessel the more retention time for the oily mist to drop out methinks...joe
Hey mate. Is it possible to completely remove the EGR system and trick the vehicle into thinking it’s still there to you don’t have engine lights coming on? Cheers.
Question my zafira 1.9 cdti was hissing after blanking at the top , so blanked it at the manifold aswell did a oil change 5w -30 car was running good till today when i heard a big Puff sound lost power and its ticking while driving like a lollipop stick against a moving bike wheel ,I inspected it its blew the manifold blanking plate gasket and black Soot is on my engine ,I'm back to square 1 any help please ?
Sorry, this response comes so late after your initial comment but noticed no one replied. I have the same engine in my Astra twintop. I would recommend in this situation, giving the engine a 3-direction seafoam treatment and re-check your oil level. These engines do not like being over-filled. So first check you haven't put too much oil in... It can pull it into the turbo system and cause excessive turbo wear or even complete failure. The ECR systems on these engines are vile and spew gunk all over the injectors nearest the recovery pipe. If I were you, knowing how temperamental these engines are with this system is give it a good seafoam treatment, set up your engine back to stock and install a relatively inexpensive Oil Catch can. This takes the recovered air (with its oil-mist gunk) and separates the oil mist out of the recovered exhaust air fairly well. I'd also recommend the temperature trick sensor (look for a good one, if a cheap one fails it can have bad results) I would recommend the Purvent catch can designed by Mann+Mummel (OEM Air intake manufacturer and put a new OEM air filter on at the same time) If you spend this 100-200 on your engine it will keep going forever with normal servicing. Sorry if this is too late a reply but hopefully it will help someone at least.
I just want to get rid of the time bomb that is the EGR cooler in the 2016 ranger , already got rid of the transmission heat exchange for a twin cooler rads up front just so I don’t have that Bomb go off at any given time and stuff my gearbox
Hi Brett. I have a 2004 Mercedes Sprinter 313cdi. It has had a head gasket & skim due to coolant loss internally. I have noticed that the power & torque has dropped. Do you think l have a egr problem? Thanks
Or rebuild the turbo, so no oil is thrown on intake, buy new EGR and new throttle actuator, and you're done. $200 for the turbo, $80 for EGR, $100 for throttle actuator (the whole body). Do this every 5 years if you keep the car, and it's cheaper than fuel bought. I have a 325000 km Opel Vectra C from 2005, 1.9 turbo diesel, and i just did these things, now the engine is like new.
IN A DINOSAUR ENGINE LIKE YOU HAVE ON THERE. You can blank off most engines up to EDC15 controller and problem solved ECU won't throw any errors. Most cars with EDC16 controller will come up with error either due to no pressure in EGR pipework or higher temperatures in the exhaust. In some, blocked EGR with alter map so it will burn more fuel and will be smokey not showing any errors, but higher temperature exhaust gases will kill catalytic converter and exhaust( if steel) prematurely, in EDC16 you can't alter EGR activity using VAG-COM for a pound of ebay as it was in EDC15 controller. EDC17 controllers will throw immediate MIL on the dash, PEUG/CITR will drive unaffected, but other makes will go to limp mode. EGR is also fitted on petrol engines- GDI, FSI and other DI users know the valve cleaning procedure...
Hi Brett, nice to watch your videos . I am enjoying your content thoroughly and hope you make more videos featuring the Triton. My 2010 MN has 120,000 ks on it, taking ownership at 70 thousand and assuming the previous owner didn't have any inlet manifold clean schedule... Do you think it would be okay to do the spray cancer while the car is running method every 20,000 ks from here on? My mechanic is offering it to me here in central QLD without the manual clean which seems too good to be true. Don't get me wrong.. he is a very honest guy and a great mechanic, you Brett are a lot like him so i thought I'd ask. There's a few louts up here it seems to get second opinions on this kinda stuff.
![[TESTED] LIQUI-MOLY vs PENRITE Diesel Intake Cleaners - WHICH ONE IS BEST??](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M6zJUXVhHSI/mqdefault.jpg)
![[TESTED] LIQUI-MOLY vs PENRITE Diesel Intake Cleaners - WHICH ONE IS BEST??](/img/tr.png)
I installed the EGR cable and my economy went through the roof and the power is amazing, my engine is finally awake, for $80 it's brilliant, no faults on the dash, love it, and also get a throttle controller, you won't believe the difference in your car.
Link?
What car was it
How are your EGT'S
Wishful thinking …
Egr cable on 8.4 klms per 100klms
No cable 7.4 klms per ltre
This guy seriously knows his way around a vehicle engine. I wish my local Garage was as good.
MrIsak786 In Germany you not only loose any warranty by the manufacturer, you also loose all insurance coverage when you manipulate EGR rates. Not to speak about NOx emissions. California e.g does real live over the street measuring of exhaust gases, e.g with IR-beams and reports it by cameras directly to the DMV, that's why they found the VW cheating - by the way, as brand new cars were always measured as "Polluter"! So take care what you do with your car and what is legal! Simply use Diesel cars normally with maximal 2/3 of full gas, this will first reduce particle production at there fore reduce particulate filter clogging, so you exhaust won't work against the engine, it will also reduce heat and with less heat less NOx build up and therefore will reduce AGR rate and is by the way completely legal, and saves you diesel fuel additionally.
Brit, I just bought a vw sportswagen dti 2015. And just subscribed to your channel. I'm really enjoying all the information and learning so much on tuning on these smaller diesel engines. Being a heavy duty technician for so many year's this vehicle is my retiement gift to enjoy and play with for year's to come! Cheers...
Not much to play with i guess since everything is electronic..
Thanks TheLsdAddicted
The best way to prevent turbo and egr faults is to make sure you rev it and keep it over 2500rpm, this way the turbo engages and runs long enough to spit out almost all deposits......2.2cdi, over 400k miles, still original egr and turbo, still pulls like a monster for a 116hp engine on an almost 2t vehicle
Bisogna tenere la geometria variabile del turbo aperta, seconda e terza marcia in città, 2500 giri al minuto. Purtroppo stanno imponendo il limite di 30km h e secondo me vorrebbero che le persone andassero o in bicicletta o con il bus😂 il cambiamento climatico😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂😂😂
Good video. This is a common challenge with all turbo diesels.
Yes. I have a large V8 Amarican the F350 6.4 I have been 200cc of 2 stroke mix for every 65 leters of fuel or 17 gallons
On my 4jj1 it was a case of a 6k ohm resistor replacing the iat sensor to electronically shutoff the EGR solenoid (doesn't affect air:fuel ratios on my engine as it is determined via the maf and map sensor). Next a blanking plate on the exhaust side of the EGR cooler. Then clamp the coolant hoses on the cooler. Next step is blanking plate on the solenoid side. After that install a catch can or vent to atmosphere. Then finally do a proper intake manifold clean and your car will love you to bits.
I have a RZ4E engine and eliminated the EGR by ECU modification and put a blank plate to the exhaust side of the EGR cooler. Why to put another blank plate and why to clamp off the coolant hoses?
I have a diesel SH forester and to prevent soot build up is to not use it on short trips but if you do then stay in 2nd or third gear around town to make engine work harder and revs stay higher. Diesel engines as we know are designed to travel huge distances like lorries/trucks do. This is what I was told by a seasoned Subaru mechanic.
That’s extreme, just be sure to drive it long enough to get to full operating temp often enough.
You need a new mechanic.
Yes short journeys for any diesel does more harm than good,
Ok foresterboy
Saggio consiglio, in città si usa molto la seconda e terza marcia, motore al giusto regime, pochi problemi. Ma appena possibile, è bello fare lunghe percorrenze, guidare una Subaru rende felici, purtroppo la questione del DPF e del CVT ha intaccato il piacere di guida. In Europa stanno creando limitazioni assurde. E penso anche da voi
The air temperature plug he was talking about can generate fault codes, instead just place a 3.6ohm resistor on the blue/black wire to trick the temp sensor without changing the flow sensor
All good info good luck trying to tune the egr on a vw amarock
Nah, the best way to delete the EGR operation on an Amarok is actually getting into the program and disable it through the ECU.
Did some work on a BMW 335D and the inlet manifold had so much carbon build up, i think the EGR system is so stupid, im glad my friend did the EGR delete but cleaning the intake manifold took a full day. Its a pain cleaning all the carbon build up
The best way to prevent turbo and egr faults is to make sure you rev it and keep it over 2500rpm, this way the turbo engages and runs long enough to spit out almost all deposits......2.2cdi, over 400k miles, still original egr and turbo, still pulls like a monster for a 116hp engine on an almost 2t vehicle
Fact dude these modern engines need to be driven on no faffing around driving them handy is death to them, ppl are too conserved with mpg so they accelerate like granny's and keep the revs low, death to the engine
Or just delete egr?
I have a MK5 Golf 2.0 GT TDI! I had the engine management light on and displaying emissions fault! I basically stripped off the EGR valve and throttle body and cleaned them both using white spirit! Reassembled everything and engine management light disappeared!!
I put an egr blank on my 3.2 4m41 from new . no probs ever .. less than 2 mm build up of soot at 222000 kms when I dismantled to do Tappett adjust and new timing chain guide. I also have been using Penrite hpr 15w 40 engine oil from new changing every 7500 kms
instead of 5 w 30 as recommended....Zero chain guide wear noted .i think the key is thicker oil to decrease oil misting and limit or stop the egr.
Whoah!! They need that thin oil to pass through the galleries in the variable Vein turbo. Probably not wise
Video very well explained and generally put togeather. top man.
Really useful information and very well explained.
Thank you
Don’t know about the Tritons but on the pajero the thermistor in the MAF is only used by the EGR. There’s a second temp sensor on the manifold that is used for all the other stuff.
So, a long way round to advertise your Services???
It was informative thought!
Gud way of generating interest without too hard a sell! 😎👍
Hi good information, I had a engine management light & restricted performance on my 2.7d xf jaguar, I was fed up with my car I was ready to sale it, my mechanic cleaned the air flow sensor, air filter box & pipes, sprayed Wynns egr valve turbo and inlet manifolds cleaner down the intake, blanked off the egr with blanking plates and finally retuned my ecu which increase my bhp by about 40hp and cleared fault codes. I took my car on the motorway for a clean out, Wow best visit ever to a mechanic my car runs beautifully 70000 miles on the clock, mpg is about 32, take off is smooth but the magic happens once rolling the pull/pick-up is awesome. I would never sale my car now.
I have a VW CFCA T5 Trsnsporter. I’ve just blanked my EGR cooler with a Tafmet system bypass unit. Works a treat makes the engine a lot cooler. Had to do it as with the EGR in the CFCA fail and send shards of the cooling fins into the engine.
rolph bluesky if you blank it off you need to get it coded out of the system, but the Tafmet bypass eliminates the need to get it coded.
I give my 2.0 CR TDI a good thrashing every now & then. Seems to keep the EGR & DPF clean.
Same let her warm.up , turbo cool down b4 switch off, change gears at 2000 but every now and then flog her thru the gears blow all the shit out the back 👍🏻
PocketRocket1 I have a 2.0 tdi i just wanna know how to keep it running as good as when I bought it. What do you mean thrashing? Like take it out and floor it?
Lmfao
@A C Yes! A good thrashing! Just like Basil Fawlty did to his car on "Fawlty Towers"!
@@birdvalenchez Yes. It's just as if you were doing an "Italian Tune Up", like back when people would really wind out the gears before shifting, in order to blow the carbon off the valves of their often Italian, sports cars, but in this case, you'd be blowing the sticky build up out of your EGR valve and intake manifold. You may even see a few big puffs of black smoke coming out of your exhaust, as globs of the sticky mess detach and recirculate through the engine. For automatic transmissions, you can just shift manually. If for some reason, you are unable to shift manually, you can accelerate up a steep hill, so the automatic transmission has no choice, but to shift at higher rpm's.
I bought a SAAB 93 1.9TDI a couple of years ago and in just a few weeks, it went into Limp mode and upon inspection, I saw that there were these weird things hanging out of their holes, and the holes were so badly worn, that they were fairly much rounded off squares and egg shaped instead of circular. I had to replace the inlet manifold and the EGR valve was clogged up to buggery.
Im not a diesel mechanic, Im not any kind of mechanic if I am honest and so I got my mate to sort it out.
The engine light kept coming back every time we clear it ( still does ) and so, as a suggestion, what we did at first was simply blank it off... then he suggested drilling a small hole, so I put an 8mm hole into the blanking plate, then a 10mm and now its got a 12mm hole.
I have, for the last month maybe a bit more, been using the best diesel that I can get locally and that is Shell optimax, and this has done 3 things that have made me decide to never go back to cheaper fuel.
1 - My car is purring like a very contented kitten
2 - It is all of a sudden doing hugely better mileage per gallon
3 - Buying the expensive fual has saved me a small fortune already
In fact, while filling the tank was 17 quid more expensive than the Supermarket crud I was using previously, ( Thats a shocker I admit ), my mileage has shot up and so instead of filling the tank every 5 or 6 days, I am already on day 7 and I still have well over half a tank of fuel left.
The engine warning light is still there but it is early days, plus, I have the 12mm hole and so I am going to just take the plate off completely and see how it goes from there! - I will reset the warning light, it always comes back after only a mile or two, but lets see if it stays off for any longer... Again, Im not expefcting miracles, but I certainly have had them in this last month or so.
Anyway, what I am saying is that to not have your engine fill up with sooty crap, just stop buying cheap supermarket fuel and splash out on good quality fuel... It will be much better in the long run. I used to put Shell in every 4th or 5th tank, just to treat it, but now Im putting nothing but the best in.
I know that many say that it makes no real difference and sure, that may well be true in most cases, but it has albsolutely made a massive difference to my car... It now runs smooth, quiet, cleaner, and is cheaper to run.
Oh and one thing I do admit to, is that the first time, I did put in a bottle of redex Diesel treatment into the tank.
Question my zafira 1.9 cdti was hissing after blanking at the top , so blanked it at the manifold aswell did a oil change 5w -30 car was running good till today when i heard a big Puff sound lost power and its ticking while driving like a lollipop stick against a moving bike wheel ,I inspected it its blew the manifold blanking plate gasket and black Soot is on my engine ,I'm back to square 1 any help please ?
@@GG-nz7vd use gasket maker next time 🤷♂️
Gli additivi per il gasolio del brand tedesco Tunap fanno miracoli sui motori diesel, tunap183 e gasolio Q8 fanno miracoli❤ complimenti per il bel motore Fiat montato sulla Saab❤
Great video Brett, very informative, thanks for sharing mate.
The cable adds resistance to the air temp for EGR to keep it closed, that's its only function. The MAF has a separate temp sensor for all air fuel mixtures on most modern diesels .
install the plug, if you dont mind looking at an MIL lamp. In an emissions testing jurisdiction, a check engine light is an automatic fail.
Brilliant, thank you from England!
What are the negative side effects from fitting one of those pug in solutions? I have one fitted to my Colorado
If he knew he would have said. There are none.
Mass air flow(for operation related to egr valve)read air flow difference between open and closed egr valve and that is only how ecu monitor egr flow.Air temperature sensor is only for air what is comming in engine..
Just clean the egr with oven cleaner.. Job done..
on NZ tritons the buildup is more like the consistency of Marmite...
No, Bovril.
BTW that dongle obviously wouldn’t have a capacitor inside. They usually have resistors to reduce the standard 5 volt signal down to a level that tricks the ECU...but as noted, while it might trick EGR activation it’s also feeding incorrect IAT data which will affect fueling...bad idea, especially on later models.
4.7kohm
See how convoluted the engine is now that the epa got their hands on it.
Hi Brett, my understanding of these engines is the charge air inlet temperature sensor that is used by the ecu for precise fuel delivery is downstream of the turbo due to temp differences created by the turbo. The temp sensor as part of the mas is for the EGR only and the module/resistor just fools the ecu that the air is extremely cold and thus keeping the valve closed in all operating parameters except for lift off where excess intake pressure is vented to exhaust. The only real difference from factory ( apart from it being illegal) is that the charge air is now entirely air, and not a mixture of air and exhaust gases, which results in a slightly leaner mix..ok for diesels, not ok for petrols as they will run too hot. The Egt is not really effected by this mod. The best solution is your remapping of the ecu but for the home mechanic who has cleaned his own inlet manifold the EGR off module and a catch can is a pretty good and safe solution
I run an oil catch can and cable EGR delete ..drives fine to me and remove the cable at service time 7 year warranty 2019 MR triton
@@jackthornton3496 yes the 'egr off module' or cable delete as you call it for the Mitz engines, i have a Pajero, is an effective solution for these prone intake blocking motors. I took the intake off and cleaned before doing this years ago and running faultless with good power and economy since. Interestingly when these engines are suffering chocked inlets the soot and nitrous oxide emissions go through the roof defeating the original reasons behind Egr. Not to mention poor performance and bad fuel economy, and the dreaded Mil (money light). Engineering gone wrong it seems!
@@ajcuthy1945 Engineering gone wrong Lol with an EGR it reduces clean air and replaces it with dirty non air 50%( and that's wasting fuel because more right foot is needed,to make the same power and an added bonus a dirtier engine Lol
@@jackthornton3496 yep spot on...a feedback loop that chocks the intake at an ever increasing rate. Also its an expensive exercise to have a mechanic pull everything off an clean it. A defibrillator may be required when presented the bill😁. Having done it myself its a big job as everything is bolted to the intake manifold including the common rail. The intake runners in the head are almost impossible to clean as well. Best to fit erg off and catch can from new I'd suggest.
@@ajcuthy1945 what year pajero do you have
In the last five to ten years the reliability of turbos (for diesel or gasoline engines) have improved measurably but being such a precise component their life expectancy is still limited, with the repairing (good luck finding someone with that knowledge) or replacement cost I believe would be fairly expensive.
Bull. There was nothing more reliable than a 2.4 D Toyota engine of the 80's, or the 2.5 D Isuzu engine. And that Isuzu engine used less diesel than the best of today. Some of the newer engines, like the Ford 3.2, can not even be fixed. Not that the 3.2 is a Ford engine.
You could probably make your own, very large catch can using a toilet roll in a good sealed screw top container, cheap to make and cheap to throw away the old toilet roll.
what would happen if u removed the pintle out of the solenoid, it would ultimately just stay closed like a blanking plate
By the time you take off pipes, make and add blanks, you could have cleaned the egr and achieved another 50,000 trouble free miles without trying to reinvent the wheel.
and if you get rid of the EGR you don't have to do the job more than once..... not every year or two cleaning everything out... Also better fuel economy, more power to the wheels,
@@qwertyui90qwertyui90 except in most places you have to replace it before vehicle inspection as the emissions test will return a failure. Better just keeping it clean, as it will do itself if you drive a diesel properly.
@@johnb8956 YEAH, NAH. Exhaust is cleaner without the EGR, i get a better testing score without the egr, also better fuel economy and the engine inlet isn't choking on soot.
@@johnb8956 Oh no not qa whole 60 minutes to put the EGR in.
Reprogramme ecu for egr parameters and maybe others 👍
Notes blowby gases may have water humidity filter and keep away from oil return
Get rid of the EGR and the particulate filter. Diesel comes from the ground, refined from one of natures products. Its only right the exhaust is given back to nature once the diesel is used.
🇬🇧 Most helpful, thank you.
Cost comparison to retune ?
Crisp mods do a plug in solution. Works fine for me. Temp sensor in the maf sensor controls egr only. Fueling is controlled by other sensors. A good catch can is good too.
This is correct. There is actually a second IAT sensor after the turbo on the Mitsu's that it uses for fuelling.
Patrick Sproule Well said fellas, this is my exact understanding too. I have taken the inlet off my Pajero and cleaned it and I can tell you its a difficult complex job for the non mechanic with many bits to be removed and rubber fingers required. Involves removing injector lines and common rail and replacing copper washers etc. The black shit downstream of the EGR was significant causing restrictions particularly at the elbow. Researched this problem intensely and have installed quality oil Catch can and EGR off module. Ecu remapping is definitely an option as Bret is offering but it's 1: not for the do it yourself mechanic. 2: much more expensive. The only issue for the EGR off module is that is does not allow for no exhaust gas in the air mix calculations or charge air and fueling is slightly lean. This perfectly ok for diesel engines being the opposite of petrol where lean mix creates excessive exhaust gas temps. In the real world the engine performance is as good or better with slightly improved fuel economy now without the intake blocking problems. New oil stays significantly cleaner for longer.
Need to rename this vid. It informs how to prevent it, not how to fix it.
No it fixes it.... the names fine, the only way to "fix" EGR is to - A) Remove B) Delete or C) Block
I have installed 1.5mm thick aluminium plate, Is it ok to use aluminium plate ?
Can this be done on a 2012 Audi Q3 TDI? Thanks for the informatiopm. Very usefull.
Does an oil catch can help?
just get a blanking plate but leave the egr valve in place ,then get a basic remap and they will usually delete the prog that powers the warning light and the egr cycle cost me £150 uk pounds plus a couple of pounds for the blanking plate ,you get a slight heat increase but its running like a bird on my landy 110 tdci 2.4
How do you then control the combustion temperature, NOx production and ozone layer people health etc
Lol
Good question.
EGR valve closes when engine is working hard anyway I.e. the temp range that NOx is produced
@TryABaconSlice actually it's not when the engine is working hard NOx it's when you cruising they say
@IsambardKingdom 😅that verson of me was fresh out of trade school forgive him 😂, block the EGR, delete DPF, FIT catch cans 😂
I have'nt watched it yet, but this could be one of your highest viewed videos yet, if the content is good. This is one of those topics I have been looking forward to hearing your input on. whats your thoughts on the blanking plugs for the egr? worth doing?
Peter, what did you think?
I find whrong this option.
What happens to the temperature inside the cylinders?
That are made for the temperature that the egr manipulate.?
Block the EGR.
put in a tiny resistor of the value you need to make it not throw a code... done. Then plug it all back together hiding the resister within the plug. and put the EGR back on, but with a gasket with no hole in it so the exhaust gas can't be recirculated.
EGR = Engine killers
I got a 2005 mitsubishi Triton 3.2 did 4 X 4 looking for the exhaust O2 sensor
What about a catch can I noticed this vehicle didn't have one... I'm sure less oil inside the manifold is a good starting point
Won't stop the soot just the oil
@@matthewfarrell317 I understand it stops the oil but once the oil mixes with the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) at the inlet manifold both mixtures turn into soot buildup...
ive blanked off a couple of ERG's now, run better, cleaner, better MPG and no valve jamming and no dash lights, the euro emissions are so stringent that engines are choking in dirty intake air via exhaust manifold recirculation, take plate off for MOT if needed,
Touched on everything except the thing you should do first and foremost which is a good quality oil catch can to stop the oily vapours
Cl4rky that don’t help with the soot fool
If the soot has no where to stick, like oily inlet manifolds, it passes straight through the engine without issue, politeness stops you looking like an idiot.
whorayful you clearly know squat about soot. Buy a nice politically correct expensive diesel for your self and try that trick. Then get back to me in 500k or less when you realize how foolish that statement is on diesels.
Bradford Ramm I did try that trick and it’s working great. Straight from factory I fitted both oil catch can and secondary fuel filter/water separator and I haven’t had a single drama. We all know the new emissions controls they put in place are shit, but if you do the correct things to counter them, they won’t cause any issues
I defer to your obvious superior knowledge, I offer my inferior experience in deference.
Personal drives, 1983 Mitsubushi 4D55 diesel, owned for around 7 years about 120,000K, 1990 Toyota 2L diesel owned for round 20 years, 260,000K, 2004 Kia Pregio diesel owned around 10 years, 120,000K currently have a 2010 Hyundai CRDi 80,000K.
Did I mention I worked for Detroit Diesel for over 20 years from the late 70's thru 2000s?
They were the Australian agents for GM, Isuzu, Perkins and numbers of other brands.
So you are correct I obviously have no idea what I'm talking about. Tool.
I have deleted my E.G.R on a 2003 TDi direct injection, with 127, 900 miles on it why? because it was clogging up and causing too many issues.M.A.F sensor going down and Turbo not working correctly. Since deleting my E.G.R I have had no issues and it passes the emissions test yearly for over 4 years now. I just disconnected the vacuum hose off the actuator and plugged it with a small bolt and job done so simple, no more clogging up with carbon preventing the butterfly valve from closing and opening correctly to the point I could not start the engine. For my next emissions test I shall reconnect the vacuum hose onto the actuator and see what difference it makes to be reconnected.
If you can name "all" the other problems that the plug causes, I'd be more inclined to listen.
I installed a resistor of the correct value to fool the ECU, cost me less than 10c and half an hour.
Car's been running perfect for 4 years, fuel economy didn't change, no soot in the inlet.
Resistor of the correct value ?
How did you achieve that ?
@@juerbert1 Some other guy on the New Triton Forum worked it out, I can't remember how many ohms it was now.
6k resistor
Mess with the EGR and your engine will no longer know the gas composition in cylinder. You could end up in limp mode but will certainly have higher emissions than your vehicle was tested at. EGR cleaning IMO is a serviceable and plannable maintenance item. The engines should be designed for easier maintenance in this department.
I had a sticky EGR valve and from 2200 to 2800 RPM performance was dreadful. The ECU reported Implausible EGR values and it seemed to me that I was getting backpressure from unburned fuel hitting my DPF. A $2 OBD scanner confirmed that it wasn't opening and closing when expected. Best $2 I spent.
I have 250,000 KM on my little 1.1L Hyundai.
The EGR System is like taking a shit then turning around and eating it, just for the engine. fuck that
Very informative video thank you
i have a jeep commander diesel. i have had the dpf cleaned out professionally but now it wont turn over and run., there is pressure and fuel, tried a jump kit, but it starts and just peters out. wont idle. thoughts ?
I have a RRS love it but this egr stuff is a real concern for me. If it destroys the engine you scrap the car
This is the result of deliberate excessive EGR strategy of operation in combination with crank case blow by recirculating back to the intake manifold. All of this is only to achieve reduced NOX emissions, rather than a better or reliable engine.
That is incorrect. EGR is not just for emissions, it actually increases the efficiency of the engine when power is not demanded. You need to read up on the way EGR changes the volumetric efficiency of each cylinder by pumping inert exhaust gases back into the cylinder when power is not demanded from the engine.
Ah HA! I finally found someone that can tune my Jeep diesel!
thanks . loved your informative case
Please help does this Triton have a exhaust O2 sensor
Drill a three millimetre hole in the blanking plate and the ECU will operate ok, as it's getting a sniff of the exhaust gases.
The ECU can't tell if the thing is blocked. Not the basic systems anyway.
Top man excellent explanation
It’s a great informative video but to remap ecu is way to expensive
Well we can't understand the cause and effect of the plug n pray option , please tell us the down sides !
As not everyone can afford a tune
Aussie. You guys more clever than us Europeans who was pushed into dervs/ diesels. Odd even think diesel a thing in Aussie. Guess it is , trucks larger pick ups.
Hi there , I have a question about my triton 2007 for Brett . ? My name is George .
They sold the business years ago
Thank you for that info. Please enlighten us on the Mercedes 518 Sprinter turbo cutting off and gushes off black every now and then.
good job, cheap at $1500 to clean out, last time we rang and got a quote. good job mrt
I actually removed the intake manifold an cleaned it myself and a few hrs later saved the 1500.
$1500 just to clean something that comes off by removing 4 bolts, that's ridiculous. I have an MQ 60k service coming up I may take it off and have look not that there is anything wrong with the EGR. What model do have and dis you take a video?
2014 triton so blanking is better or standard build
So reprogramming the Engine ECU is the best way to fix the problem of soot build-up? Can one assume that your reprogramming of the ECU will not introduce other issues, and you provide a written guarantee that any issues which may arise will be repaired by you, even up to repair or replacement of an engine which has a catastrophic failure as a result of the reprogram?
Paul, we guarantee all our work 100%
i rum all my diesels with a taste of fully synthetic two stroke oil in them ,, never ever had a pick of bother only a taste ,, about 150 to 1 ish ,, , infact , i run all my petrols the same too.
tom thompson , sounds interesting! I got Holden 4x4 1996 TD. I suspect there is sutt issues... Could you please elaborate on the " taste" and the measurements for that, was that 150 millilitre to 1 liter,...or ounces,... ? And would you mix it in with the fresh mineral oil that is in the motor?... Thank you🙂
Use castor oil it will smell nice i used to do this when i was 17/18 years old for fun !
@@antsfur nope ,,, too sticky and horrid , fully synthetic two stroke ,, but you can get it with smells added too ,,
My Chinese ute engine magagement software only available at dealership workshops..I get random unwarned stoppages to do particle filter burns..and occassional random beeping
Is this the cause of 2003 Ford Transit Van motor only 86 kilometres and no power going up hill. Getting weak all the time.
Doesn’t an oil catch can help?
Interesting and informative. To be pedantic, the word is 'electronic' not 'alectronic'.
Geese its pretty simple!! The way u explained it nearly confusing yourself 3-4 times over the 4 min it took u to explain it doesn't make it seem simple lol wouldn't want you to give me directions if I was lost haha
New to diesels,,
Bought a 3ltr ,t. 2007..
260 000 K,s..
This soot build up has me worried..
With EGR you get soot..
How does a tune , more power and taucht stop sooting..??
Does it increase fuel economy..??
Wouldn't messing with the EGR affect emissions, therefore make your vehicle unroadworthy? Doesn't an unroadworthy vehicle have no-insurance?
Most cars are unroadworthy in some way or another if they really wanted to nitpick.
That is a stupid comment. They have to prove cause.
In theory, blanking off an EGR might affect emissions - but doesn't it occur to you that feeding air contaminated with CO2, CO, and soot into an engine is going to make it burn the fuel less efficiently - so increasing pollution?
Further, the annual Ministry of Transport test for all vehicles in the UK sets very stringent limits on emissions. After I blanked off the EGR on my car, it passed the MoT test every year for the following fice years (40,000 miles) until I scrapped it due to body rot.
Driving an unroadworthy vehicle in the UK invalidates your insurance, but high levels of emissions don't make the car unroadworthy - the laws that you're breaking relate purely to emissions.
Brett would an EGR oil catch can be a good addition?
EGR has no oil to catch.
Colin Walker you may be thinking about the PCV.
I’ll give you short version of what should be done and what shouldn’t. Don’t ever let anyone ‘chip or remap’ your ecu, if it goes wrong you then have to hope that same person or garage can deal with it. Don’t delete or blank the egr as it cools the combustion temperature as well as other things. Most definitely fit a good quality catch can/separator as this will prevent the sludge buildup.
EGR is closed at higher speeds. The cooler is used to cool the hot exhaust gasses before it goes back into the intake.
Reply to Dino Shed - See my comments above - following on - I removed my 2007 C4 Picasso inlet manifold and scrapped away at it and removed approx 1ltr of oily crud - unbelievable - its now soaking in DPF filter solution to try and remove crud trapped in internal nooks etc, ideas anyone?
Dino - your solution to fit an extra/post market oil separator is I think a good idea cos my crankcase PCV floppy diaphragm had cracked in several places making it inoperative ( Q how does this work) which must have contributed dramatically to the oily/carbon mix build-up in the inlet manifold - where can you get one of these oil separators
I suppose it is not unlike the demister in an oil industry separator vessel - the bigger the vessel the more retention time for the oily mist to drop out methinks...joe
In the uk it is illegal to blank a egr ?when you go for your annual mot test it will fail on emissions better to clean the egr out or renew
If the engine is EURO III no one would know, but EURO IV and newer you're spot on. It'd throw up a MIL which is an immediate MOT failure.
Why would it fail on emissions? Is cos the nox will be too high? I thought the egr only worked when the engine is at idle and shut off when reving ?
Can you guys custom tune a 2016 Range Rover sport td6???
Hey mate. Is it possible to completely remove the EGR system and trick the vehicle into thinking it’s still there to you don’t have engine lights coming on? Cheers.
you can get an EGR delete kit
Question my zafira 1.9 cdti was hissing after blanking at the top , so blanked it at the manifold aswell did a oil change 5w -30 car was running good till today when i heard a big Puff sound lost power and its ticking while driving like a lollipop stick against a moving bike wheel ,I inspected it its blew the manifold blanking plate gasket and black Soot is on my engine ,I'm back to square 1 any help please ?
Sorry, this response comes so late after your initial comment but noticed no one replied.
I have the same engine in my Astra twintop.
I would recommend in this situation, giving the engine a 3-direction seafoam treatment and re-check your oil level. These engines do not like being over-filled. So first check you haven't put too much oil in... It can pull it into the turbo system and cause excessive turbo wear or even complete failure.
The ECR systems on these engines are vile and spew gunk all over the injectors nearest the recovery pipe. If I were you, knowing how temperamental these engines are with this system is give it a good seafoam treatment, set up your engine back to stock and install a relatively inexpensive Oil Catch can.
This takes the recovered air (with its oil-mist gunk) and separates the oil mist out of the recovered exhaust air fairly well.
I'd also recommend the temperature trick sensor (look for a good one, if a cheap one fails it can have bad results)
I would recommend the Purvent catch can designed by Mann+Mummel (OEM Air intake manufacturer and put a new OEM air filter on at the same time)
If you spend this 100-200 on your engine it will keep going forever with normal servicing.
Sorry if this is too late a reply but hopefully it will help someone at least.
MRT Performance So what can I do about the egr issue on an older diesel with out a ECU.
Block your erg valve.
Remove it and burn it
Thank for your video 03-01-2023
I just want to get rid of the time bomb that is the EGR cooler in the 2016 ranger , already got rid of the transmission heat exchange for a twin cooler rads up front just so I don’t have that Bomb go off at any given time and stuff my gearbox
Hi Brett. I have a 2004 Mercedes Sprinter 313cdi. It has had a head gasket & skim due to coolant loss internally. I have noticed that the power & torque has dropped. Do you think l have a egr problem? Thanks
Wished you do a video like this on 2012 y61 gu patrol 3.0 ltr td. Cheers
No mention of a catch can?
Nice person tank for you help my brother respect good man for your widio .
Or rebuild the turbo, so no oil is thrown on intake, buy new EGR and new throttle actuator, and you're done. $200 for the turbo, $80 for EGR, $100 for throttle actuator (the whole body). Do this every 5 years if you keep the car, and it's cheaper than fuel bought. I have a 325000 km Opel Vectra C from 2005, 1.9 turbo diesel, and i just did these things, now the engine is like new.
200 bucks for a turbo must be a ripper.
IN A DINOSAUR ENGINE LIKE YOU HAVE ON THERE. You can blank off most engines up to EDC15 controller and problem solved ECU won't throw any errors. Most cars with EDC16 controller will come up with error either due to no pressure in EGR pipework or higher temperatures in the exhaust. In some, blocked EGR with alter map so it will burn more fuel and will be smokey not showing any errors, but higher temperature exhaust gases will kill catalytic converter and exhaust( if steel) prematurely, in EDC16 you can't alter EGR activity using VAG-COM for a pound of ebay as it was in EDC15 controller. EDC17 controllers will throw immediate MIL on the dash, PEUG/CITR will drive unaffected, but other makes will go to limp mode.
EGR is also fitted on petrol engines- GDI, FSI and other DI users know the valve cleaning procedure...
Hi Brett, nice to watch your videos . I am enjoying your content thoroughly and hope you make more videos featuring the Triton.
My 2010 MN has 120,000 ks on it, taking ownership at 70 thousand and assuming the previous owner didn't have any inlet manifold clean schedule... Do you think it would be okay to do the spray cancer while the car is running method every 20,000 ks from here on? My mechanic is offering it to me here in central QLD without the manual clean which seems too good to be true. Don't get me wrong.. he is a very honest guy and a great mechanic, you Brett are a lot like him so i thought I'd ask. There's a few louts up here it seems to get second opinions on this kinda stuff.
Will it work on American made diesel trucks?