Thanks MRT , that was a great video. I would like to add my personal story to this video following the theme of soot and EGR issues.I purchased a DID MN Triton (2011 Model) a year and 8 months ago here in SA. After a week it start blowing black smoke so I took it back and they identified the fault as a build-up of soot so they cleaned the manifold and also, or so I been told, changed fuel filter as I have been explained “is very sensitive to fuel deposits”.As per their recommendations I started to buy the diesel additive ( Mitsubishi brand for an outrageous $14 a bottle. What the …..???? it is 500Ml bottle for a full tank of 65 Litres). 2 weeks later, the same issue. ‘This time it is the EGR’ they declared, which they insist is now going to be replaced ….. 4 days later, the same issue again. This time they tried to sell me a story that one of the components was not installed properly while they fixed the EGR so now it is all good ..2 weeks later .. you guessed it, it happens again …. They promised to look at it more closely and they decided it is the Turbo … so they replaced the turbo.6 months ago I took it to a non-Mitsubishi-mechanic for a scheduled service who insisted that the fuel filter is aged and not been replaced…. Go figure !The time has come to do the timing belts (2 months ago) so I went there again and asked them to look at my favourite subject- black smoke, while they are under the hood. During ALL this time I always had that thing where something is also causing the engine to idle poorly and while taking-off slowly, by pressing on the accelerator gently, it causes the car to 'bounce' and or 'hold-back' as if there is a poor flow of air OR some sort 'engine-starving' effect as if something is clogged somewhere or blocked ( of air flow)Guess what …. They found out that after a year and eight months that one of the injectors did not work … will you believe it ????? I was driving with only 3 working cylinders for all this time. How on earth did they not pick up that fault ??? “Very rare” they told me…No wonder they replaced the turbo, the engine simply did not have enough grunt in it to function properly.Anyway , that done, I drove for a couple of weeks and the black smoke started again ! I said , that’s it. You either fixing it or I am going to consumer affairs. Well now, they finally found the fault ( I hope) , it is the AFS (Air flow sensor) which supposed to be replaced with a new designed sensor replacing the original one. According to the Mitsubishi mechanic, the engineers of Australia, Thailand and Japan looked at this issue of AFS faults and decided to redesigned it with a ‘harness type’ about 2 years ago. (This is what I was told, I am not an expert !). The mechanic replaced it and re calibrated the air flow again electronically and it’s all done now. Well, the car is working as it should!! with power, grunt and without ‘dragging’ itself. It changes gears more easily (auto), it sounds smoother, quieter and drive with less effort on my behalf. Black smoke is no longer an issue.Lesson of the story is, don’t give up ( I am very very very lucky that the car was still under warranty). Keep on taking the vehicle to the Mitsubishi mechanics ( especially if it is under warranty) and don’t take ‘No’for an answer. Mechanics also have their faults and some are simply not experienced enough to look beyond set of instructions, steps over a laptop…..If anything, I hope I helped someone out there who is stuck with an EGR issue that his Mitsubishi mechanic cannot figure out… Don’t be shy and insist that they look at all the above issues thoroughly and not just through a laptop… at the end of the day, THEY ARE GAINING EXPERIENCE FROM THESE MISTAKES which hopefully will not affect the other poor Triton-owner who just want a vehicle to work as it should.Cheers, and good luck !Please leave your comments to the next person on these blogs/youtubes, it only help us, as a consumers, to get a better understanding of what is wrong with our vehicles.
your mechanic is very very good..hahhaha..in that case the mechanic should take the engine performance in each cylinder...not by judging.coz it waste of time and money..
I owned a 2014 triton (Strada in the Philippines) pick-up. Appreciated your story, thank you brod. I used to service every pms at my distributor (casa), although it is costly but it was well maintained.
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I've owned diesel 4WDs for 30 years. These new engine no doubt give you more performance these days for your money but also need more TLC. My 2011 Mitsubishi Challenger has the MRT retune by Brett and I can honestly say that the performance and tune of my car is excellent and stable. My car was new and I bought the retune at around 5,000 klms and now I have done 115,000 klms not missing a beat and feels as good as the day it was done. I see less engine timing adjustments needed as well as far as we can tell. EGR is a peace of pollution kit for sure designed to control emissions in which manufacturers are increasingly under pressure to reduce green house gases just like any other industry that pollutes. Beijing's resent smog Red alert is a testament to pollution causes of particulate matter (PM, 2.5 is a type of pollution involving fine particles less than 2.5 microns (0.0025mm) in diameter) of which cars are a major contributor and they have placed restrictions on car use this week. Odd and even days. As we know its these particles mixed with unburnt fuel that causes the eventual restriction in the manifold of all DIDs as show in this video and I'm convinced of the need to limited EGR involvement. I know of a couple of triton owners who have suffered. Don't forget the performance gains Brett brings. I'm installing LPG injection soon which will no doubt give me better economy and performance but even more importantly a more complete burn and less unburnt fuel means an even more cleaner engine and less pollution !! A win win as I see it. Get on board everyone !!
Shout out from Oklahoma USA! I have a 4d55t Mitsubishi powered Ford Ranger! Super rare in these parts, and I love it. I actually order a ton of parts for the old guy from Australia
The best way to disable the EGR Valve (as seen at 2:35) without upsetting the ECU, is to unscrew the four screws connecting the Actuator and insert a 6mm shim between it and the valve body, before reattaching. The Actuator will still perform as usual but there will be insufficient throw to open the valve and all this can all be done with the EGR Valve still in situ. Since the primary function of the EGR Valve is to lower NOX by reducing combustion temperatures, it is possible that the Mitsubishi cylinder head failures could be attributed to the widespread crippling of the EGR Valve which was popular at the time.
This makes so much sense! I recently went to install a boost gauge on my 83' Merc 300SD (OM617.952) and I removed a plug in the intake manifold and there was a good half an inch (no joke) of that black tar built up on the plug, and therefore throughout the intake manifold. I was horrified, and wish there was an easier way to clean her off without letting it sit in an acid bath. after 250,000 miles it really builds up! Darn emissions stuff gumming our engines up.
An easy way to clean it is to get a propane torch & an air compressor, remove the manifold, stick the torch in the manifold to soften up the black crud & use the air compressor to blow the crud out. Look up "cleaning out inlet manifold with blow torch"
Just to clarify EGR. Exhaust gases have already been burnt making them in effect inert. At small throttle openings the reduced air volume causes a lowering of compression pressure and subsequent reduction in combustion efficiency. By recirculating some exhaust gas the combustion pressure can be maintained without effecting the low speed air/ fuel ratio and this gives the improved performance. Problem is exhaust gas also contains particulate matter in the form of carbon residue and oil vapor and this crud blocks the systems over time.
"After 2010, the application of EGR into light-duty gasoline engines was expanded-not for NOx control but for fuel economy purposes. Using EGR in downsized, direct-injected gasoline engines can reduce pumping losses, improve combustion efficiency, improve knock tolerance and lessen the need for fuel enrichment"
Just for reference the EGR will drop your fuel economy regardless of throttle position etc. The more bang you get for the same amount of fuel the more fuel economy you will have. Inert gas in your combustion chamber will reduce the fuel economy as the engine will not burn as cleanly
Well, it will slow it down. As it only controls the crankcase ventilation not the EGR the egr is defined to destroy the internal moving parts of the engine. Carbon is similar to diamond dust. It is an aggressive grinding dust. Let me ask you Would you dump a liter or one Quart of valve-grinding compound into your crankcase with every oil change? I don't believe any sane person would so why would you dump carbon from your exhaust back into your engine never mind the plugging up the total air intake system? Then it starts grinding your piston walls and wearing down the piston rings and getting into your crankcase oil reservoir then your main bearings and seals, the cam bearings timing chain or gears front and rear seals gone
The best thing any of us can do is to become very well acquainted with diesel technology and how and why all the fuss about emissions. Don't forget that the emissions control body is in California and sets the standards for the US and AU and to quite an extent the rest of the world. Their aim to get diesels off the road. How? By making diesels so expensive to own and use, that we go to EV! This is a sort of pie in the sky approach as EVs are even more expensive if the real costs are added up. A replacement battery for a Nissan Leaf EV is $33K in Oz. See John Cadogens site to verify. Thing is that properly maintained diesels and their fuels are pretty clean and the hype around the downside of the emissions is way overstated for political motives. The UN is trying to get everyone to become Vegans. No a problem but should it be done by decree? Nope!
My ML Triton 3.2 DiD has hit 120k's and has been back to mitsubishi 3 times (60k, 90k, 110k) to have the manifolds cleaned out/replaced - remember that these cars carry a 10 year power-train warranty and as this is an existing fault with these engines mitsubishi has to keep warranting the claims up to the 10 year mark!
They should design the EGRs on these cars to recirculate the exhaust gasses _after_ it's been treated by the diesel particulate filter (DPF), that way there would be no soot to mix with the crankcase blowby when going through the intake. Maybe I'm wrong but that's just what makes more sense to me.
The EGR system is designed introduce inert exhaust gas to reduce combustion temperatures and therefore reduce NOx emissions. It doesn't "re-burn" the exhaust gas, it's inert....
Interesting video. Just a quick note, the EGR system is actually designed to reduce emissions. It's designed to add a small amount of inert gas into the combustion chamber at low engine loads to help cool combustion temperatures, thus reducing oxides of nitrogen (NOx).
I don't no about cooling combustion, & don't fully agree with that but lack information to completely disagree. It's about giving the exhaust pollution a second burn & thus reducing Nox. some models have Egr gas coolers some don't. It all came in to reduce pollution & keep buildings in cities less blackened etc like back in the old school days & keep air level pollution below levels gov sets out. The Egr is designed for pollution reduction only. I cannot see how burning soot can give better fuel economy & I think thats a myth pushed by car sales people & the whole industary to say its a good tech for overall performace. There are media folks within gov who have an agenda & must brainwash with false info. Not that cleaner air is a bad thing, they just don't want our cars being more expensive to repair etc by their policies. The truck industary don't have EGR's because they who actually maintain vehicles that make money realised their expensive machines where losing performance & run adblue in the system to make them cleaner in exhaust but not get clogged up.
Chris E en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation Go and do some reading up on it and then come discuss. Soot reduction is the purpose of a diesel particulate filter. A completely seperate system. And trucks do run EGR. Cummins have been running it on their ISX and Signature engines for years
And as for SCR (or AdBlue as you put it, which is just a mixture of 32.5% ureia to water) that again is a completely seperate system to what EGR does. It's utilises a secondary catalyst in the exhaust to further reduce emissions. Again, go and read up on it, then come and discuss. Incase you are wondering, I am a diesel plant mechanic, working in the mining industry. We are currently subject to Euro 4 emission laws for new equipment, but that's due to change very shortly, so most of these emission controls are still fresh in my mind.
Cheers Brett very informative, my daughter just bought a 2.8ltr turbo deisel triton with 100k on the clock, full service history etc, should she be concerned about this issue. Good video mate.
great explanation....thank you I have a doubt...I have Mitsubishi 2L non-turbo diesel engine. Is it possible to integrate turbo with it? If so, will it make any issues in the life of the engine
Hi I have a Mitsubishi l200 63plate keeps cutting out replaced fuel filter and housing,suction control valve starts straight back up then cuts out would really appreciate any ideas that may help Thank you🇬🇧
EGR is to reduce NOx on Diesels as a result it produces more very fine particulates which is why the DPF is required. Because you are putting exhaust gases back into the engine you no longer have the benifits of better scavaging which improves fuel economy. That is why an engine today give a lower MPG than a diesel of forty years ago of the same size and power.
what about a water methanol injection system? i read that it has some kind of steam cleaning effect because of the water vapors... would that help the buildup problem?
Expensive as I would believe.that system are already in existence on ww2 top notch fighter plane.bf109 . MITSUBISHI a6m6.already used it to some extent but not to reduce emissions but to increase the turbo boost and power.if I was not mistaken the ratio is 50part water methanol and 50part high octane gas.these are expensive/complicated way to produce power.back in the days where everything are legal as long as you shot your opponent down.not to mention pollution control ...
Interesting video. Can i ask how many km's this particular vehicle had travelled? The clogging up of inlet valves and inlet manifolds is also a common issue on the VW/Audi engines. On the VW/Audi's its getting popular to use a crushed walnut shell under high pressure (purpose built machine) to clean the valves. This method is also used on BMW/Mini engines. Do MRT intend on using this method down the track?
Very good video, however i must disagree with 1 thing. EGR blanking plates do not have the downsides that he mentioned. In my mk6 ford fiesta 1.4 tdci, it increased torque down low in the rev range and also increased my mpg by 2 or so miles. Myself and the rest of the UK Mk6 owners club thinks the same way
So on a brand new engine with as yet no coking / carbon build up in it's intake tract , EGR system, intake valves/ ports / dual length manifold runner actuator etc etc ...... it will work just well enough to get that tick of approval for emissions reg's. Here in the REAL world when the engine has done 90,000km + and the above components along with the injector pintels are being choked by the same system designed by academics to help make it "clean" (the MN Triton 4D56t 2.5 CRD is a GREAT example here )
DPF has a lifespan of about 200k km at best (but they can last longer if looked after...) They should be cleaned every 100k, professionally. Should be doing a passive regen every tank, 20-40 minutes on the motorway above 50kmh and 2000rpm, a healthy dpf can do it in 20 mins easily enough, and even in traffic (a little) if the right conditions are met, heat wise. DPF isn't considered blocked until it reaches about 20 kpa / 200 mbar of back pressure. This is for all engines making between 50-500kw of power at the flywheel. All diesel engines are helped by installing an oil/air separator with filter media
Would it be better to get away from Direct injection? Contaminated fuel you replace injectors and pump, cannot use diesel mixed with coconut fuel etc. Old diesels can run on coconut fuel, they lose some power but I believe are less polluting.
+still34u I believe that the whole point of an air filter is to stop the really big stuff, like leaves,flies, insects etc from getting anywhere near to the engine
Its here in the states. You can pour it in the brake booster then let the car sit for 10 minutes then start the motor and it blows white smoke out the exhaust for a while supposed to de soot everything.
MRT Performance they have it in the states you pour it in the brake booster while car running. then turn engine off let car sit 10 minutes. Start car and blows white smoke out the tail pipe cleans the head if u search on youtube 100s of videos. Throttle response seems alot sharper after. I do it evry 5000 to 10,000 miles.
On the 4M41 Engine does anyone know if the Vaccum Operated Manifold Butterflys "The ones showen in video" Can be removed from the shaft to increase airflow?? I have completed the Full EGR block & Oul Catch Can.
Hello . Thank you for this video. I am an owner of a 2012 Mitsubishi L200 with an automatic transmission gear box. And here is the problem . As I am driving at a normal speed of 80 km/hour -55 miles/h , often stepping away from the gas pedal and let the car go due to traffic, then the car breaks suddenly 2 times and moves from the 4th gear to the second gear. After that it is stucked on the second and I cannot accelerate, the D indecator flashes, and the only way out is to pull over and switch off the engine and started again. Do you have an idea what is causing it ? Can anyone help ? Thank you The faults are P1782 and P1783
I wonder if an old school upper cylinder lubricant kit fitted to engine to wash the intakes and valves would help . just a thought, I got one in my shed might throw it on after i clean out the intakes on my bt50 and see if this helps.
I have an Engine check light and used a code reader which indicated EGR fault. Would this fault be associated with about 1 second of engine run on when I turn the ignition off? Just to be clear, I am using an '09 Mitsi Pajero NT 3.2L DiD.
Just had one come in with 202000kms on the clock, no previous egr repairs done. Got egr performance and circuit codes will be interesting to see what it looks like....
am thinking of buying a 3.2 pajero 2016 will it have the same issue as mentioned here and is this a serious problem in ehich i should avoid and go for a petrol engine am currently driving a pajero 3.0 2007 and have done 145000 km with no issues up to now
So I'm looking at getting a 3.2L Triton. Should I still get one? is this carbon build up a Triton problem or do thay all have this problem? I need some advice please.
Does the vehicle usage profile have much influence on this soot build-up ? I use my 3.2 DID Pajero mostly for touring with a 1700kg caravan. Most of its travel is at highway speeds and maybe 50% pulling the van. There has been very little use as a low speed commuter. Am I likely to have less of a problem with soot because of this ?
I am loking at getting a 2.5 DT Diesel SWB 92 Pajero, (Japan Import).... will this be a problem on that vehicle? What costs involved to get a full clean up of the internals to restore / improve efficiency and performance overall... i am in Brisbane
The job it's self is just under a days work plus a new manifold gasket, possibly new oil feed turbo seals etc. About 600 usd or so, depends on each garage. I just took my van to a engine rebuild company & they have a mate down the road who can do it, & he uses their chemical bath to clean parts. Dealers won't do it. I invested on a blanking part of ebay.
Below is a comment on a video which lead me to your video. Does this sound like my problem. They have checked the EGR valve and did not find a problem with it, but I don't think they went deep enough.. My car is a MN MY15 2.5 litre ______ I also have the problem. It has been doing it since about the 30,000 service. It has now done 55,000 and still doing it. They have had the injectors out and replaced a solinoid (the name of it escapes me at the moment, down near the radiator), that almost fixed it. They have found that when it does it the turbo pressure is really high around 23psi and does it around1800-2300 rpm. Did the get to the bottom of it.?? _________
My 97 Eclipse GST is blowing black soot out the muffler why is that? The engine was newly rebuilt for performance people say that's natural but I don't think so. This is my first turbo help
Renault 1.5 diesel common rail Euro 4....with engine off unplug EGR power cable and done. Check engine will light up but the motor will run much better and it will also save about 1 liter of diesel/100 km, that's 0.21 gallon/62 miles.
@@afewgoodmornings clean dpf, clean egr and pipe, check valve operation, clean Map sensor, test map sensor, if not within operational range then replace.
Diesel engine NEVER have "fuel flowing through the inlet manifold". also, " Abstract: Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is an effective strategy to control NOx emissions from diesel engines. NOx emissions may be further reduced by cooling of the EGR stream. Drawbacks of EGR include increased PM emissions and increased fuel consumption.".
When did he say fuel is going thru inlet manifold? I heard him say engine oil and PM is via blow by and EGR recovery, and blow by is a known problem seen via catch cans, and it's no secret that exhaust gases have particulate matter, so those will be pushed back into the inlet manifold.
@@vap0rtranz "When did he say fuel is going thru inlet manifold?", maybe from this? "direct injection technology 00:19 whereby engines no longer have fuel whether it's petrol or diesel flowing in through the inlet manifold which has a scouring and a cleaning effect of the inlet side of in the engine"
@@willgeorge5644 your point sounds like you want his English to explicitly say present vs past tense, so never vs no longer. Fine. I took his English to be conversational. Bigger point is EGR was added to turbo diesels and soot is not cleaned up downstream, like with dual injected gassers.
@@vap0rtranz "your point sounds like you want his English to explicitly say present vs past tense", no, it's just true vs untrue. He states the petrol AND diesel clean the inlet manifold, Diesel does not come anywhere near it so it's not true. EGR is another matter, in diesel engines is it not EGR alone that causes this? also not particulatly direct injection. All diesels by definition inject fuel into the combustion or precombustion chanber. I want it to be right, that's all.
@@vap0rtranz No, the meaning is clear, and wrong. So for diesel anyway, it shows that washing with fuel or not is not the problem. It's EGR only. Before even port injection, EGR was limited, It's not my intention to pick holes, just pointing out some realities.
So much wrong info in this video, EGR is not there so unburnt fuel in the exhaust can be burnt. It is there to lower NOX emissions by reducing combustion temperatures. Also the throttle body on a diesel is not there to control engine output. It is there to create suction in the manifold to make the engine draw exhaust gas through the EGR system.
I thought throtte body on diesel was to allow a smooth engine stop. I think an oil catch can could solve this problem of deposits quite well. the egr is not really the problem it's dry. the problem is the oil in blowby gluing soot particles together and to the intake.
On Euro 4 vehicles upwards throttle valves are mainly fitted to increase EGR flow by causing a small vacuum in the manifold and to stop engine shudder on engine shutdown. On DPF equipped cars it will partially close during regeneration and on deceleration to keep exhaust temperatures high for fast DPF regeneration. On my TDI the throttle valve partially closes on deceleration to keep catalyst temps high; even when not performing a regen.
I just watched this interesting video and I own a turbo diesel mitsubishi. It has done only 18k and I would like to get one of your custom tunes so the EGR is not working for 90% of the time. Where do I sign. I live in SE Qld.
Once I idled Dmax RT50 2.5liter for about 3 hours + Later on the highway, I notice the truck makes some smoke on throttle. After a few highway trips, there's no more smoke. I figure you are right EGR is open at low rpm only. p.s. : Truck sips very little fuel on idle....seriously!
How long can I leave the fault on the dash as my Triton light came on like 5 months ago and a mate checked the code and it was egr fault but I've just left it
Saw my neighbour s Triton pulled to bits and could not believe the black grease like shit all through the intercooler and piping. What a pig. Does a catch can fix it??
A diesel with a throttle plate? Is it specifically for the EGR to direct the vacuum there? I don't know why else you'd need a throttle plate other than to choke the engine in case of runaway.
Bene ho capito: con egr si intasa tutto e bisogna pulire ogni tanto, con egr chiusa si spacca la testata e l auto consuma di più e si intasa il dpf, giusto?
Hi I have a Pajero 3,2 DID -2001 Its behaving very strange.In normal idling in Parked mode it works fine, revving clear and strong but When idling in Drive mode, the engine is couging and blowing out black smoke. Even when driving you can feel a jumping in the engine. To find the fault we have found out that the engine is doing this with only a short move of the gearshift lever....so actually it seems like a electric fault. The problem shows when only moving the gearshift a very short distance ( so you see the indicator change on dashboard) even before the automatic gearbox gets into real pressure for driving..............a strange problem. Do youhave any ideas?? i can make a video...appreciate some ideas... Thomas
Hey what do yous think of the mq 4n15 motors. I'm looking at getting an exhaust but thinking it's a waste of time with the dpf.. Am I correct with that
This guy is in the business to sell ecu software upgrades. Eliminating egr will increase combustion temps, pressures and NOx emissions. This will harm the engine and the environment. The oil breather catch can is a simpler way to reduce build up without hurting engine or environment. It extends time before cleaning will need to be done and after original owner is no longer the owner.
wouldnt an air oil separator also help in reducing that black tar'ish buildup? if i understood what you said the black build up is a combination of the diesel gas + the oil blowby making the tar like substance.
+MRT Performance i see and that makes sense, another question for you, do you guys have any experience with the 4g93 gdi turbo engine from mitsubishi? curious if that engine can be tuned in the same manner to improve performance and reliability
wax333 yeaa i've heard that allot myself, was just wondering what could be done as i have one in my possession and as any car enthusiast you look for ways to make things work better or at a higher performance level.
Looks barely like 30-50k. I've seen 4n14 motors 1/3 to 1/2 built up with solid material throughout the whole intake (inc egr and pipe), into the head also, at around 100k. Oil air separator installed with filter media.... 80-100k service intervals, would probably be minimal cleaning needed. Without separator.... I'd be cleaning EGR and intake at 50k, lol I shit you not. DPF (if you have one) should be cleaned every 100k
On egr and pipe, yeah, and check function of valve. Install oil/air separator and you should be good for 80-100k km between cleans of intake and egr (inc pipe for egr)
that black rust..same hilux3000cc d4d and isuzu d max 3000cc black rust..nothing new. but engine still work after that...it mean ...i dont think engine will die
Why post up pics to FB, not everyone has FB or wants it. there are many other options for pic uploads, ie Google is far more secure and less intrusive.
That's it, you do what the car tells you to when it tells you!! Sucker, your being controlled by the government indirectly, through the car manufacturers, they got you type people right where they want you 😂
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Thanks MRT , that was a great video.
I would like to add my personal story to this video following
the theme of soot and EGR issues.I purchased a DID MN Triton (2011 Model) a year and 8 months ago here in SA. After a week it start blowing black smoke so I took it back and they identified the fault as a build-up of soot so they cleaned the manifold and also, or so I been told, changed fuel filter as I have been explained “is very sensitive to fuel deposits”.As per their recommendations I started to buy the diesel additive ( Mitsubishi brand for an outrageous $14 a bottle. What the …..???? it is 500Ml bottle for a full tank of 65 Litres).
2 weeks later, the same issue. ‘This time it is the EGR’ they declared, which they insist is now going to be replaced …..
4 days later, the same issue again. This time they tried to sell me a story that one of the components was not installed properly while they fixed the EGR so now it is all good ..2 weeks later .. you guessed it, it happens again …. They promised to look at
it more closely and they decided it is the Turbo … so they replaced the turbo.6 months ago I took it to a non-Mitsubishi-mechanic for a scheduled service who insisted that the fuel filter is aged and not been replaced…. Go figure !The time has come to do the timing belts (2 months ago) so I went there again and asked them to look at my favourite subject- black smoke, while they are under the hood. During ALL this time I always had that thing where something is also causing the engine to idle
poorly and while taking-off slowly, by pressing on the accelerator gently, it causes the car to 'bounce' and or 'hold-back' as if there is a poor flow of air OR some sort 'engine-starving' effect as if something is clogged somewhere or blocked ( of air flow)Guess what …. They found out that after a year and eight months that one of the injectors did not work … will you believe it ????? I was driving with only 3 working cylinders for all this time. How on earth did they not pick up that fault ??? “Very rare” they told me…No wonder they replaced the turbo, the engine simply did not have enough grunt in it to function properly.Anyway , that done, I drove for a couple of weeks and the black smoke started again ! I said , that’s it. You either fixing it or I am going to consumer affairs. Well now, they finally found the fault ( I hope) , it is the AFS (Air flow sensor) which supposed to be replaced with a new designed sensor replacing the original one. According to the Mitsubishi mechanic, the engineers of Australia, Thailand and Japan looked at this issue of AFS faults and decided to redesigned it with a ‘harness type’ about 2 years ago. (This is what I was told, I am not an expert !). The mechanic replaced it and re calibrated the air flow again electronically and it’s all done now.
Well, the car is working as it should!! with power, grunt and without ‘dragging’ itself. It changes gears more easily (auto), it sounds smoother, quieter and drive with less effort on my behalf. Black smoke is no longer an issue.Lesson of the story is, don’t give up ( I am very very very lucky that the car was still under warranty). Keep on taking the vehicle to the Mitsubishi mechanics ( especially if it is under warranty) and don’t take ‘No’for an answer. Mechanics also have their faults and some are simply not experienced enough to look beyond set of instructions, steps over a laptop…..If anything, I hope I helped someone out there who is stuck with an EGR issue that his Mitsubishi mechanic cannot figure out… Don’t be shy and insist that they look at all the above issues thoroughly and not just through a laptop… at the end of the day, THEY ARE GAINING EXPERIENCE FROM THESE MISTAKES which hopefully will not affect the other poor Triton-owner who just want a vehicle to work as it should.Cheers, and good luck !Please leave your comments to the next person on these blogs/youtubes, it only help us, as a
consumers, to get a better understanding of what is wrong with our vehicles.
your mechanic is very very good..hahhaha..in that case the mechanic should take the engine performance in each cylinder...not by judging.coz it waste of time and money..
Isaac Negev; Excactly what engine do you have in your Triton?
I owned a 2014 triton (Strada in the Philippines) pick-up. Appreciated your story, thank you brod. I used to service every pms at my distributor (casa), although it is costly but it was well maintained.
WELL DONE ...DILIGENCE WON OUT ....
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I've owned diesel 4WDs for 30 years. These new engine no doubt give you more performance these days for your money but also need more TLC. My 2011 Mitsubishi Challenger has the MRT retune by Brett and I can honestly say that the performance and tune of my car is excellent and stable. My car was new and I bought the retune at around 5,000 klms and now I have done 115,000 klms not missing a beat and feels as good as the day it was done. I see less engine timing adjustments needed as well as far as we can tell.
EGR is a peace of pollution kit for sure designed to control emissions in which manufacturers are increasingly under pressure to reduce green house gases just like any other industry that pollutes. Beijing's resent smog Red alert is a testament to pollution causes of particulate matter (PM, 2.5 is a type of pollution involving fine particles less than 2.5 microns (0.0025mm) in diameter) of which cars are a major contributor and they have placed restrictions on car use this week. Odd and even days.
As we know its these particles mixed with unburnt fuel that causes the eventual restriction in the manifold of all DIDs as show in this video and I'm convinced of the need to limited EGR involvement. I know of a couple of triton owners who have suffered. Don't forget the performance gains Brett brings. I'm installing LPG injection soon which will no doubt give me better economy and performance but even more importantly a more complete burn and less unburnt fuel means an even more cleaner engine and less pollution !! A win win as I see it.
Get on board everyone !!
"Brilliant program." I did mine, and is running very fine now.
Shout out from Oklahoma USA! I have a 4d55t Mitsubishi powered Ford Ranger! Super rare in these parts, and I love it. I actually order a ton of parts for the old guy from Australia
The best way to disable the EGR Valve (as seen at 2:35) without upsetting the ECU, is to unscrew the four screws connecting the Actuator and insert a 6mm shim between it and the valve body, before reattaching. The Actuator will still perform as usual but there will be insufficient throw to open the valve and all this can all be done with the EGR Valve still in situ.
Since the primary function of the EGR Valve is to lower NOX by reducing combustion temperatures, it is possible that the Mitsubishi cylinder head failures could be attributed to the widespread crippling of the EGR Valve which was popular at the time.
or just buy 12$ cable, read ecu, disable egr and write it back.
Mut3 12 dollari? 450 i say
This makes so much sense! I recently went to install a boost gauge on my 83' Merc 300SD (OM617.952) and I removed a plug in the intake manifold and there was a good half an inch (no joke) of that black tar built up on the plug, and therefore throughout the intake manifold. I was horrified, and wish there was an easier way to clean her off without letting it sit in an acid bath. after 250,000 miles it really builds up! Darn emissions stuff gumming our engines up.
An easy way to clean it is to get a propane torch & an air compressor, remove the manifold, stick the torch in the manifold to soften up the black crud & use the air compressor to blow the crud out.
Look up "cleaning out inlet manifold with blow torch"
"This makes so much sense", yes, causes more emissions than it fixes.
Just to clarify EGR. Exhaust gases have already been burnt making them in effect inert. At small throttle openings the reduced air volume causes a lowering of compression pressure and subsequent reduction in combustion efficiency. By recirculating some exhaust gas the combustion pressure can be maintained without effecting the low speed air/ fuel ratio and this gives the improved performance. Problem is exhaust gas also contains particulate matter in the form of carbon residue and oil vapor and this crud blocks the systems over time.
"After 2010, the application of EGR into light-duty gasoline engines was expanded-not for NOx control but for fuel economy purposes. Using EGR in downsized, direct-injected gasoline engines can reduce pumping losses, improve combustion efficiency, improve knock tolerance and lessen the need for fuel enrichment"
Just for reference the EGR will drop your fuel economy regardless of throttle position etc. The more bang you get for the same amount of fuel the more fuel economy you will have. Inert gas in your combustion chamber will reduce the fuel economy as the engine will not burn as cleanly
well said
You should mention fitting an oil catch can is also another option to stop this problem from happening
Well, it will slow it down. As it only controls the crankcase ventilation not the EGR the egr is defined to destroy the internal moving parts of the engine. Carbon is similar to diamond dust. It is an aggressive grinding dust. Let me ask you Would you dump a liter or one Quart of valve-grinding compound into your crankcase with every oil change? I don't believe any sane person would so why would you dump carbon from your exhaust back into your engine never mind the plugging up the total air intake system? Then it starts grinding your piston walls and wearing down the piston rings and getting into your crankcase oil reservoir then your main bearings and seals, the cam bearings timing chain or gears front and rear seals gone
The best thing any of us can do is to become very well acquainted with diesel technology and how and why all the fuss about emissions.
Don't forget that the emissions control body is in California and sets the standards for the US and AU and to quite an extent the rest of the world.
Their aim to get diesels off the road.
How?
By making diesels so expensive to own and use, that we go to EV!
This is a sort of pie in the sky approach as EVs are even more expensive if the real costs are added up. A replacement battery for a Nissan Leaf EV is $33K in Oz. See John Cadogens site to verify.
Thing is that properly maintained diesels and their fuels are pretty clean and the hype around the downside of the emissions is way overstated for political motives.
The UN is trying to get everyone to become Vegans. No a problem but should it be done by decree? Nope!
My ML Triton 3.2 DiD has hit 120k's and has been back to mitsubishi 3 times (60k, 90k, 110k) to have the manifolds cleaned out/replaced - remember that these cars carry a 10 year power-train warranty and as this is an existing fault with these engines mitsubishi has to keep warranting the claims up to the 10 year mark!
They should design the EGRs on these cars to recirculate the exhaust gasses _after_ it's been treated by the diesel particulate filter (DPF), that way there would be no soot to mix with the crankcase blowby when going through the intake. Maybe I'm wrong but that's just what makes more sense to me.
The EGR system is designed introduce inert exhaust gas to reduce combustion temperatures and therefore reduce NOx emissions. It doesn't "re-burn" the exhaust gas, it's inert....
+blmech68 excellent comment, yes you are correct, BUT there is some unburnt fuel that is used, however the main aim as you say is to reduce NOX
:)
Interesting video. Just a quick note, the EGR system is actually designed to reduce emissions. It's designed to add a small amount of inert gas into the combustion chamber at low engine loads to help cool combustion temperatures, thus reducing oxides of nitrogen (NOx).
I don't no about cooling combustion, & don't fully agree with that but lack information to completely disagree.
It's about giving the exhaust pollution a second burn & thus reducing Nox.
some models have Egr gas coolers some don't.
It all came in to reduce pollution & keep buildings in cities less blackened etc like back in the old school days & keep air level pollution below levels gov sets out.
The Egr is designed for pollution reduction only. I cannot see how burning soot can give better fuel economy & I think thats a myth pushed by car sales people & the whole industary to say its a good tech for overall performace. There are media folks within gov who have an agenda & must brainwash with false info.
Not that cleaner air is a bad thing, they just don't want our cars being more expensive to repair etc by their policies.
The truck industary don't have EGR's because they who actually maintain vehicles that make money realised their expensive machines where losing performance & run adblue in the system to make them cleaner in exhaust but not get clogged up.
Chris E
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation
Go and do some reading up on it and then come discuss.
Soot reduction is the purpose of a diesel particulate filter. A completely seperate system.
And trucks do run EGR. Cummins have been running it on their ISX and Signature engines for years
And as for SCR (or AdBlue as you put it, which is just a mixture of 32.5% ureia to water) that again is a completely seperate system to what EGR does. It's utilises a secondary catalyst in the exhaust to further reduce emissions. Again, go and read up on it, then come and discuss.
Incase you are wondering, I am a diesel plant mechanic, working in the mining industry. We are currently subject to Euro 4 emission laws for new equipment, but that's due to change very shortly, so most of these emission controls are still fresh in my mind.
Thank you for this information, but if I want to clean this soot without uninstall the engine which product can be useful please?
really good video and explanation! Taking my inlet off tomorrow to fix this issue up. Blanking plate installed and no CEL, so all good there.
thanks
Cheers Brett very informative, my daughter just bought a 2.8ltr turbo deisel triton with 100k on the clock, full service history etc, should she be concerned about this issue. Good video mate.
great explanation....thank you
I have a doubt...I have Mitsubishi 2L non-turbo diesel engine. Is it possible to integrate turbo with it? If so, will it make any issues in the life of the engine
I’d like to ask this I’ve had a induction clean done , but still a lot off black smoke imitation at low speed 80km , what do you think ?
Do fuel additives help this problem?
To those using an old /simple diesel engine with HEALTHY performance :HOW LUCKY
probably why my old ute still goes with never doing oil changes
Hi Brett, so is the solution in fitting an oil catch can system , regards Rob ?
Hi I have a Mitsubishi l200 63plate keeps cutting out replaced fuel filter and housing,suction control valve starts straight back up then cuts out would really appreciate any ideas that may help
Thank you🇬🇧
EGR is to reduce NOx on Diesels as a result it produces more very fine particulates which is why the DPF is required. Because you are putting exhaust gases back into the engine you no longer have the benifits of better scavaging which improves fuel economy. That is why an engine today give a lower MPG than a diesel of forty years ago of the same size and power.
When i had a diesel i blanked off the EGR entirely and all of my rough running problems resolved immediately.
What difference did it make
How did you do that?
My intake manifolds kept getting clogged. I got tried of cleaning them. There's a solution for this problem: EGR delete w/ ECU tune.
what about a water methanol injection system? i read that it has some kind of steam cleaning effect because of the water vapors... would that help the buildup problem?
Expensive as I would believe.that system are already in existence on ww2 top notch fighter plane.bf109 . MITSUBISHI a6m6.already used it to some extent but not to reduce emissions but to increase the turbo boost and power.if I was not mistaken the ratio is 50part water methanol and 50part high octane gas.these are expensive/complicated way to produce power.back in the days where everything are legal as long as you shot your opponent down.not to mention pollution control ...
Interesting video. Can i ask how many km's this particular vehicle had travelled? The clogging up of inlet valves and inlet manifolds is also a common issue on the VW/Audi engines.
On the VW/Audi's its getting popular to use a crushed walnut shell under high pressure (purpose built machine) to clean the valves. This method is also used on BMW/Mini engines. Do MRT intend on using this method down the track?
at present we have no plans but are aware of the process
Crushed walnut shells, dam this brings back memories of de-coking Mitsubishi GDI engines nearly 20 years ago when I was in the dealership
Very good video, however i must disagree with 1 thing. EGR blanking plates do not have the downsides that he mentioned. In my mk6 ford fiesta 1.4 tdci, it increased torque down low in the rev range and also increased my mpg by 2 or so miles. Myself and the rest of the UK Mk6 owners club thinks the same way
unizel101 you may be correct on a ford, but not on a Triton
:(
I blanked and deleted my egr, with a map and it added 100km to a tank of diesel. Instant power, runs smoothly, passes emissions tests. Happy camper!
So on a brand new engine with as yet no coking / carbon build up in it's intake tract , EGR system, intake valves/ ports / dual length manifold runner actuator etc etc ...... it will work just well enough to get that tick of approval for emissions reg's. Here in the REAL world when the engine has done 90,000km + and the above components along with the injector pintels are being choked by the same system designed by academics to help make it "clean" (the MN Triton 4D56t 2.5 CRD is a GREAT example here )
Thanks for the info, and how's MRST going these days?
Are you still using Snake Oil to remove soot from these engines?
EGR is for controlling NOx production, not for burning unburned fuel in exhaust during cold start.
Egr and dpf are the 2 worst rubbish ever put on an engine!!!
Egr can help cold starting and fuel economy. DPF is there to keep your kids from getting cancer. If you don't like them, don't get a diesel
DPF has a lifespan of about 200k km at best (but they can last longer if looked after...) They should be cleaned every 100k, professionally. Should be doing a passive regen every tank, 20-40 minutes on the motorway above 50kmh and 2000rpm, a healthy dpf can do it in 20 mins easily enough, and even in traffic (a little) if the right conditions are met, heat wise.
DPF isn't considered blocked until it reaches about 20 kpa / 200 mbar of back pressure. This is for all engines making between 50-500kw of power at the flywheel.
All diesel engines are helped by installing an oil/air separator with filter media
Would it be better to get away from Direct injection? Contaminated fuel you replace injectors and pump, cannot use diesel mixed with coconut fuel etc.
Old diesels can run on coconut fuel, they lose some power but I believe are less polluting.
so what is the whole point of having an intake air filter, if after the air passes through the filter, it gets mixed in with all this mess..?
+still34u I believe that the whole point of an air filter is to stop the really big stuff, like leaves,flies, insects etc from getting anywhere near to the engine
Totally agree. Tradition maybe lol
Different particles, soot isn't abrasive (engine bi-product), dirt and dust is and will cause damage.
@@johnrichardson544 flies? :DDD they are nothing compared to carbon from exhaust
At least the bug and insect are keep well out.leaving us to deal with only a tiny amount of inert/combusted gases
EGR is for Nox emissions not fuel economy, and EGR is shut off when idleing or at full throttle not the other way around.
Excellent information. Brett is a very knowledgeable man. I am now subscribed.
what happened to you guys, you not at Rhodes anymore
Very cool informative!!! Is seafoam good also for cleaning that stuff out?
never heard of it
Its here in the states. You can pour it in the brake booster then let the car sit for 10 minutes then start the motor and it blows white smoke out the exhaust for a while supposed to de soot everything.
***** I have herd of seafoam for cleaning things.
never heard of it
MRT Performance they have it in the states you pour it in the brake booster while car running. then turn engine off let car sit 10 minutes. Start car and blows white smoke out the tail pipe cleans the head if u search on youtube 100s of videos. Throttle response seems alot sharper after. I do it evry 5000 to 10,000 miles.
On the 4M41 Engine does anyone know if the Vaccum Operated Manifold Butterflys "The ones showen in video" Can be removed from the shaft to increase airflow?? I have completed the Full EGR block & Oul Catch Can.
I love the video
Hello . Thank you for this video. I am an owner of a 2012 Mitsubishi L200 with an automatic transmission gear box. And here is the problem . As I am driving at a normal speed of 80 km/hour -55 miles/h , often stepping away from the gas pedal and let the car go due to traffic, then the car breaks suddenly 2 times and moves from the 4th gear to the second gear. After that it is stucked on the second and I cannot accelerate, the D indecator flashes, and the only way out is to pull over and switch off the engine and started again. Do you have an idea what is causing it ? Can anyone help ? Thank you The faults are P1782 and P1783
I wonder if an old school upper cylinder lubricant kit fitted to engine to wash the intakes and valves would help . just a thought,
I got one in my shed might throw it on after i clean out the intakes on my bt50 and see if this helps.
I have an Engine check light and used a code reader which indicated EGR fault. Would this fault be associated with about 1 second of engine run on when I turn the ignition off? Just to be clear, I am using an '09 Mitsi Pajero NT 3.2L DiD.
Just had one come in with 202000kms on the clock, no previous egr repairs done. Got egr performance and circuit codes will be interesting to see what it looks like....
Is there any solution you can pour in your engine your fuel or oil to help with this problem
am thinking of buying a 3.2 pajero 2016 will it have the same issue as mentioned here and is this a serious problem in ehich i should avoid and go for a petrol engine am currently driving a pajero 3.0 2007 and have done 145000 km with no issues up to now
same problem
There is a definite link between egr and heads cracking as it always happens on cylinder 3 on 4m40
Better clean egr regularly like every 50km?
@@junL7183 yes.
So I'm looking at getting a 3.2L Triton.
Should I still get one? is this carbon build up a Triton problem or do thay all have this problem?
I need some advice please.
they are good value cars, be mindful of the service cost prior to purchase and you get a bargain
:)
Pretty cool video mate, I have one thats switching off even after a manifold replacement, any ideas? I wish you guys were in Melbourne!
Does the vehicle usage profile have much influence on this soot build-up ?
I use my 3.2 DID Pajero mostly for touring with a 1700kg caravan. Most of its travel is at highway speeds and maybe 50% pulling the van. There has been very little use as a low speed commuter.
Am I likely to have less of a problem with soot because of this ?
you problem will be just as bad as the pictures.
BUT get it checked first
I am loking at getting a 2.5 DT Diesel SWB 92 Pajero, (Japan Import).... will this be a problem on that vehicle? What costs involved to get a full clean up of the internals to restore / improve efficiency and performance overall... i am in Brisbane
The job it's self is just under a days work plus a new manifold gasket, possibly new oil feed turbo seals etc.
About 600 usd or so, depends on each garage.
I just took my van to a engine rebuild company & they have a mate down the road who can do it, & he uses their chemical bath to clean parts. Dealers won't do it.
I invested on a blanking part of ebay.
i have L200 and can i permanently close the EGR Value?
As someone who has torn apart diesel engines and know very well how they work, would you recommend EGR blanking?
no, he just made this video to show how much all that carbon helps the engine
Below is a comment on a video which lead me to your video. Does this sound like my problem. They have checked the EGR valve and did not find a problem with it, but I don't think they went deep enough.. My car is a MN MY15 2.5 litre
______
I also have the problem. It has been doing it since about the 30,000 service. It has now done 55,000 and still doing it. They have had the injectors out and replaced a solinoid (the name of it escapes me at the moment, down near the radiator), that almost fixed it. They have found that when it does it the turbo pressure is really high around 23psi and does it around1800-2300 rpm. Did the get to the bottom of it.??
_________
best call us if you can 0297674545
My 97 Eclipse GST is blowing black soot out the muffler why is that? The engine was newly rebuilt for performance people say that's natural but I don't think so. This is my first turbo help
Get rid of it asap
Renault 1.5 diesel common rail Euro 4....with engine off unplug EGR power cable and done. Check engine will light up but the motor will run much better and it will also save about 1 liter of diesel/100 km, that's 0.21 gallon/62 miles.
not on this engine
Thanks for this, there is hope still then
Now I know what I'm doing this Saturday on my 2013 diesel outlander.....
How'd you go? Having similar problems with out 2013 outlander, DPF EGR, MAP range codes etc.
@@afewgoodmornings clean dpf, clean egr and pipe, check valve operation, clean Map sensor, test map sensor, if not within operational range then replace.
Diesel engine NEVER have "fuel flowing through the inlet manifold". also, " Abstract: Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is an effective strategy to control NOx emissions from diesel engines. NOx emissions may be further reduced by cooling of the EGR stream. Drawbacks of EGR include increased PM emissions and increased fuel consumption.".
When did he say fuel is going thru inlet manifold? I heard him say engine oil and PM is via blow by and EGR recovery, and blow by is a known problem seen via catch cans, and it's no secret that exhaust gases have particulate matter, so those will be pushed back into the inlet manifold.
@@vap0rtranz "When did he say fuel is going thru inlet manifold?", maybe from this? "direct injection technology 00:19 whereby engines no longer have fuel whether it's petrol or diesel flowing in through the inlet manifold which has a scouring and a cleaning effect of the inlet side of in the engine"
@@willgeorge5644 your point sounds like you want his English to explicitly say present vs past tense, so never vs no longer. Fine. I took his English to be conversational. Bigger point is EGR was added to turbo diesels and soot is not cleaned up downstream, like with dual injected gassers.
@@vap0rtranz "your point sounds like you want his English to explicitly say present vs past tense", no, it's just true vs untrue. He states the petrol AND diesel clean the inlet manifold, Diesel does not come anywhere near it so it's not true. EGR is another matter, in diesel engines is it not EGR alone that causes this? also not particulatly direct injection. All diesels by definition inject fuel into the combustion or precombustion chanber. I want it to be right, that's all.
@@vap0rtranz No, the meaning is clear, and wrong. So for diesel anyway, it shows that washing with fuel or not is not the problem. It's EGR only. Before even port injection, EGR was limited, It's not my intention to pick holes, just pointing out some realities.
So much wrong info in this video, EGR is not there so unburnt fuel in the exhaust can be burnt. It is there to lower NOX emissions by reducing combustion temperatures.
Also the throttle body on a diesel is not there to control engine output. It is there to create suction in the manifold to make the engine draw exhaust gas through the EGR system.
I thought throtte body on diesel was to allow a smooth engine stop.
I think an oil catch can could solve this problem of deposits quite well.
the egr is not really the problem it's dry.
the problem is the oil in blowby gluing soot particles together and to the intake.
michaelovitch your correct, diesel throttle bodies are to help prevent over run when turned off.
On Euro 4 vehicles upwards throttle valves are mainly fitted to increase EGR flow by causing a small vacuum in the manifold and to stop engine shudder on engine shutdown. On DPF equipped cars it will partially close during regeneration and on deceleration to keep exhaust temperatures high for fast DPF regeneration.
On my TDI the throttle valve partially closes on deceleration to keep catalyst temps high; even when not performing a regen.
Forename Surname
Thank you.
I just watched this interesting video and I own a turbo diesel mitsubishi. It has done only 18k and I would like to get one of your custom tunes so the EGR is not working for 90% of the time. Where do I sign. I live in SE Qld.
would an oil catch can help prevent all this dirty mess???
no
This is why modern diesels are cleaner, all the soot is bunging up the engine!
Ho, where are you based?
Once I idled Dmax RT50 2.5liter for about 3 hours +
Later on the highway, I notice the truck makes some smoke on throttle. After a few highway trips, there's no more smoke.
I figure you are right EGR is open at low rpm only.
p.s. : Truck sips very little fuel on idle....seriously!
short trips and low rpm is the worst thing you can do to your engine ! so drop a gear and keep your engine happy (and your bank account)
Strange that Catch Cans weren’t mentioned.
How long can I leave the fault on the dash as my Triton light came on like 5 months ago and a mate checked the code and it was egr fault but I've just left it
Saw my neighbour s Triton pulled to bits and could not believe the black grease like shit all through the intercooler and piping. What a pig. Does a catch can fix it??
How many Km's on the clock with that Outlander?
i have a 4m40 turbo diesel (pajero) can i blanket the erg valve.
does it affect the turbocharger if i blanket the erg valve
A diesel with a throttle plate? Is it specifically for the EGR to direct the vacuum there? I don't know why else you'd need a throttle plate other than to choke the engine in case of runaway.
not sure
Lots have throttle plates to quieten them down and to pull more egr gas in and help emissions supposedly on idle makes them lot quieter
think ill stick with my old 6g72 after seeing this
jaydon rose amen to that.
Which diesel has ever had fuel injected into the intake manifold?
Old perkins as cold start
Any Detroit 6.5 idi, old international 6.9 idi. All sold in large quantity in ford and Chevy trucks in the 80s and 90s. Also in combines.
Why not walnut blast to remove carbon
Can things like Upper engine cleaner help prevent this build up?
not really, maybe some, but its marjinal
Bene ho capito: con egr si intasa tutto e bisogna pulire ogni tanto, con egr chiusa si spacca la testata e l auto consuma di più e si intasa il dpf, giusto?
2 days in a parts washer lol. more like 2 mins of Mr muscle oven cleaner
Hi
I have a Pajero 3,2 DID -2001
Its behaving very strange.In normal idling in Parked mode it works fine, revving clear and strong but When idling in Drive mode, the engine is couging and blowing out black smoke. Even when driving you can feel a jumping in the engine. To find the fault we have found out that the engine is doing this with only a short move of the gearshift lever....so actually it seems like a electric fault. The problem shows when only moving the gearshift a very short distance ( so you see the indicator change on dashboard) even before the automatic gearbox gets into real pressure for driving..............a strange problem. Do youhave any ideas?? i can make a video...appreciate some ideas...
Thomas
sounds like air flow sensor
Me too, any solution for that?
Throttle body on a diesel?
yust put some block plate betwen exhaust to egr pipe and it is done, the egr will work normaly but no gases from exhaust will go through
if you get a code ,drill a litle hole 5-10mm in a plate...
Hey what do yous think of the mq 4n15 motors. I'm looking at getting an exhaust but thinking it's a waste of time with the dpf.. Am I correct with that
Don't need an exhaust, they flow plenty. Just clean DPF every 100k, professionally.
Install oil/air separator. Ryco make the best all-rounder. RCC351K
The only question I ask is does your software upgrade pass the pollution laws? Otherwise big fines for you and every owner that has it done.
Which WRX engines are impacted by this?
I don't think any WRX uses direct injection.
todorpetrovic the new one does :)
Gr8 explanation.
What car is mileage please? Thanks
the problem starts immediately, after about 50,000 - 100,000 km it is an issue above that its noticeable.
This guy is in the business to sell ecu software upgrades. Eliminating egr will increase combustion temps, pressures and NOx emissions. This will harm the engine and the environment. The oil breather catch can is a simpler way to reduce build up without hurting engine or environment. It extends time before cleaning will need to be done and after original owner is no longer the owner.
wouldnt an air oil separator also help in reducing that black tar'ish buildup? if i understood what you said the black build up is a combination of the diesel gas + the oil blowby making the tar like substance.
correct, but the tune is easier than a catch can as the catch can is not 100%
+MRT Performance i see and that makes sense, another question for you, do you guys have any experience with the 4g93 gdi turbo engine from mitsubishi? curious if that engine can be tuned in the same manner to improve performance and reliability
the gdi engines in the Mitsubishi weren't very reliable in my opinion 4g93 engines used to be in lancer gsr with turos
wax333 yeaa i've heard that allot myself, was just wondering what could be done as i have one in my possession and as any car enthusiast you look for ways to make things work better or at a higher performance level.
This was made 6 years ago. But how many Kay’s would that type of build up take?
Looks barely like 30-50k. I've seen 4n14 motors 1/3 to 1/2 built up with solid material throughout the whole intake (inc egr and pipe), into the head also, at around 100k.
Oil air separator installed with filter media.... 80-100k service intervals, would probably be minimal cleaning needed. Without separator.... I'd be cleaning EGR and intake at 50k, lol I shit you not.
DPF (if you have one) should be cleaned every 100k
Thank you
how many miles are on that engine, do they need cleaning every 50,000, or what
On egr and pipe, yeah, and check function of valve.
Install oil/air separator and you should be good for 80-100k km between cleans of intake and egr (inc pipe for egr)
that black rust..same hilux3000cc d4d and isuzu d max 3000cc black rust..nothing new.
but engine still work after that...it mean ...i dont think engine will die
Could you have a needle valve arrangement just past the air cleaner and bleed a small amount of, say, kerosene at some time to ":wash" things?
👍 Explained well
Why post up pics to FB, not everyone has FB or wants it. there are many other options for pic uploads, ie Google is far more secure and less intrusive.
Do the burn off when the light tells you to do it easy,
That's it, you do what the car tells you to when it tells you!! Sucker, your being controlled by the government indirectly, through the car manufacturers, they got you type people right where they want you 😂
Is it possible to clean without removing manifold?