Appreciate your hard work. I just recieved my pkg. Took 1 week from China to California. I will be installing it tonight. You should email the vendor posting there links. Without your knowledge, i wouldn't have bought this. Thanks
Been trying these out myself in two separate controllers and the stick feel/tension is very close if not the same as the standard ALPS potentiometer joysticks, which I like. The ginful v5's seem to use a slightly softer spring by comparison. I did have to do the extra calibration using a spacer similar to what you did because mine also weren't reaching the corners fully in the circularity test. I designed little removable spacers and 3D printed them for each stick. Worked great. One negative I noticed is they have a good amount of jitter even though they were advertised as not having any (both sets I have exhibited jitter), but this hasn't affected gameplay that I could tell. If favor union upgrades their magnet similar to what ginful did on their v5 to get the circularity better on the corners and gets rid of the jitter, these might be the perfect replacement joysticks for me.
3D printed spacer, very nice. The Ginfull joysticks do seem to be a bit softer mechanically. I'm working on a setup to test the different tensions, maybe in the next few months I'll get it finished.
@@OmeliGaming Probably the Ginful v5's depending on which types of games you play. For context, I don't play competitive FPS games on console. I can live with the slightly lighter stick tension on the Ginful vs the Favor Unions. They've been the closest to drop in replacements without the need for the extra spacer calibration, yet still came up 5-9% circularity after the software calibration. Zero jitter and no issues with reaching the corners either as the circularity was actually a circle unlike the Favor Unions. They're not the fastest like the Favor Unions as this video showed, but probably the least hassle out of all the ones I've tried in terms of getting them up and running. The K Silvers had the same issue for me with not reaching the outer bounds and square corners that the Favor Unions did fwiw, so you'd need a physical spacer for calibration on those too if not using one of those solder on calibration boards.
I like the fact that hall effect thumbsticks are starting to take off, but the main issue for me is the centering mechanism. The centering mechanism when it starts to wear stick drift will still eventually happen as the centering mechanism stops returning back to its original center. The potentiometer was only one part of the problem with stick drift (and other issues).
Yes but that issue can be fixed with calibration. The stick drift issue weird toggling of drift and changing rate and non-linear responses were the main cause of stick drift you see as a user as controller firmware normally is able to filter most kinds of stick drift already
@@land_and_air1250 That and typically stick drift from slop as a result of a weakening spring is usually fixable by just replacing the apring or even doing something like changing the deadzones slightly. Slop has to get REALLY bad for it to be really noticeable, and that typically takes upwards of 5-6 YEARS of hours of daily use, so long as you aren't giving your controller the mario party treatment on a regular basis. Normal use case, the difference in time it takes for slop to be an issue vs 'potentionmeter problems' making themselves known is so long it's not even really worth considering.
@@jtnachos16 this really depends on your environment. If you have any pets that shed hair, or have sand around your controllers, your potentiometers will degrade much faster as not only will those items get in the wipers and screw it up and make it nonlinear, they will result in non-uniform wear patterns which cause permanent damage to the potentiometers as the scratches change the surface resistance. I’ve had controllers develop issues within a year of use and were unclean-able
@@land_and_air1250 I was specifically talking about drift in the framing of stick-slop drift, not potentiometer drift. Most MODERN potentiometer sticks will last maybe 2 years before they start developing some level of issue, even in 'optimal' conditions, assuming an hour or two of use per day. A hall effect stick, I'd estimate a minimum of 5 years, assuming there isn't some sort of QC fault not related to typical wear, or an abnormally bottom-tier stick. Both of them are roughly on par when it comes to centering issues related to the centering springs, which is what I was talking about primarily, and is what sets the minimum of 5 years on hall sticks. I'll also add that sticks like on the joy-cons have additional issues due to how they interact with the board itself, which can't really be solved via third-party sticks. It has to do with them using a shorter more compact stick design, meaning more lateral force on the housing and especially at the edges of the stick housing, wearing out the contacts on the board. Which was why one of the early, sometimes working fixes for joycons, was to stick a bit of foam, layered E-tape, or cardboard in the housing opposite the side of the board with the stick, to provide more sturdy structure and stop flexion from allowing the stick to dig into the contacts on the board it was attached to. Most the other controllers aren't using sticks that have to have as compact a housing, and thus end up with different issues. There's also the occasional QC problem where a slightly mis-molded shell can cause pressure on the board or stick in an odd location where it's not REALLY noticeable to the user, but will over time create abnormal wear. Usually that is seen on the cheaper third party controllers ,but those also often use normal screws, so getting it solved is often as simple as loosening one of the screws near the location of issue to remove the rubbing contact.
Nah it’s not tbh you can mechanically and softwarely calibrate it. So nah centering won’t be the problem but you should keep your joysticks clean and probably relube it every 2 years or sum
@@metalplasticelectronics354 they come in both ways, circularity is bad with error rate around 19-20%. However ginful released a newer yellow modules with optimized magnets. After calibration with AL's software, i got 3.6% error rate
Great video with tons of info, thanks! I'm an FPS gamer so I've been looking into getting halls in my dualsense, I just can't do it myself. I have high anxiety and even with pills, I shake so I don't trust myself with small parts let alone soldering
I like the tention in these sticks. The speed is impressive. I have these behind calibration boards. Circularity is a bit annoying. But its pretty decent.
Heads up: at 1:06 you've got an extremely high pitched whine in the audio. Check your audio spectrum and you'll likely see a spike you need to filter out
Great video as always, thank you! Would you mind making a video about how you test these joysticks before you install them (like at 2:41)? What values you look for and what those values could possibly mean after installation? Thank you again
A perfectly centered joystick axis would read 900 millivolts on the output. Of course, each axis has a range of resting positions. So I consider a near-perfect joystick axis to read about 880 mV to 920 mV through its resting range. If it's out by more than 60 millivolts it will start to affect range circularity.
I'm pretty sure the GuliKit TMR kits are out now for the PS4. And it probably won't be long before the K-Silver TMR joysticks are available for the PS4. I would go with one of those 2.
Not sure if i missed it in a previous vid but could you please explain how to pre test the joysticks with a multimeter. Like multimeter settings and best joystick to use out the pack with numbers please. I'm planning on buying the ginful v2s but with 10 in the pack, i want the first two to be the last two.
Take a look at this video at the 1:20 mark: ruclips.net/video/B9fJFDNpYD8/видео.htmlsi=LpHxx6NTzB4-UMnW . You are looking for the output voltage from each sensor to be as close as possible to 0.900 volts. If it reads over 0.970 volts or under 0.830 volts, I wouldn't use that joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks for the reply. Just ordered some and i want to make sure i don't install faulty hardware. That vid definitely did help.
Thank you for this! Have you considered taking the favor union sensor and placing it on the ginful v5 body? I wonder if the longer curved magnet will provide a better range.
Man, getting so close. I'm still not ready to ditch potentiometers, but we're almost there... One thing that is really important to me is aiming resolution. Do these sensors match the DualSense bit resolution?
You use this site for the DualSense: dualshock-tools.github.io/ . The edge is not yet supported, at least since I last checked. Someone may need to start a pressure campaign on Sony to get them to release the info for the calibration codes for the controller.
my joystick is starting to fail and i'm at a bit of a loss, what's the ideal hall sensor to buy today? are these and the oranges comparable to ones that include a pcb board?
Shouldn't need one with a PC board for the DualSence now that calibration software is available now. These Favor Union are faster than the Ginfull V5 but the Ginfull have better circularity.
Hello, I used to have a Gamesir T4 Pro gamepad but the joysticks started to drift. Now I want to build a new gamepad using the circuit board. Size doesn't matter because I'll use a cable, but I'm not sure if it will work properly if I replace the old potentiometer analog joystick with a Hall Effect one. Can you help me?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I tested it specifically with my controller. There are 3.3 volts on + and -, and 1.65 volts on the middle pin when the stick is stationary. However, voltage values are not given on sites such as Aliexpress. There are statements such as PS4 PS5 Xbox compatible
Here is a video on the K-Silver Hall effect joysticks: ruclips.net/video/B9fJFDNpYD8/видео.htmlsi=xLaVvCaOrW_QLt5t . I've got a set of the new K-Silver TMR joysticks on order. So hopefully in a couple of weeks, I'll have a video up about them.
Hi there, I finally decided to install the hall effect analogs on my controllers, but I just can't find yet a good tutorial that explains how to calibrate them after the installation. Did you do anything like this? That would be very helpful, thank you.
Depends on what sensor IC is in it. If it is 93L35 then I wouldn't use it. This sensor has an extremely long fall time, I measured over 200 milliseconds. If the sensor IC is either 93L41 or 93L43 then should be ok to use. The 41 is just 20 to 30 milliseconds slower than the 43. Both have a slightly smoother feel than a potentiometer joystick. Of course, you will have to buy the joysticks to see what sensor IC is in it. I sure wish the companies selling them would list the sensor IC.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you. I need bought it first to see the sensor name. The label is L-8J (I see on v5 is L-4B). Hope it have 93L41 or 93L43
Can you use the same joysticks on a duckshock 4 controller? I know, they've different version on their website but I was just wondering if anyone has tried it. I have four left overs that I can put in a duckshock controller.
I don't think so. I need to pull apart a DualShock 4 and see how the potentiometers are hooked up. Looking at some pictures for the PS4 Hall effect joysticks makes me think there is a difference. I'll try and pull one apart this week.
I checked and no the DualSense version will not work in the DualShock 4, at least not in the version of the DualShock 4 I have. Vcc and ground are reversed for one sensor on each joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you so much for your response. I have a few duckshock controllers laying around. I am thinking about getting some favor union hall effect sticks for them.
When can we expect you to have a speed test video up on the TMR sticks? I’m also in the beta and waiting for my sticks. I want to find out whether the TMR or favor union sticks are faster
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I didn’t know they were available to order. If you get into the test group like the past comment here, you’ll get it within a week
So basically at the moment there is not any real equivalent (or near to) replacement to a potentiometer joystick. It seems that ginfull v5 is on the right path if they will reduce delay on their units.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I rewatched your videos and I think I will take those Ginfull units to fix one of my unusable controllers. Then I will test it on FPS games (mostly XDefiant and COD) to see if delay could have any sensible impact.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I've used the Ginfuls and they are great. But the one thing these HE sticks have not defeated is actual centering drift. Sure they defeat ur common potentiometer drift but the actual stick mechanism at the smallest movement still doesn't always centre at 0 and will slightly drift. This is evident in games that have pure 0 inner deadzones like Apex Legends. Won't notice it in COD or Xdefiant as they have built in deadzones in the game engine.
@@OfficialMyMindset I think most of that has to do with the mechanical design of the joystick mechanism. I think the old joysticks from Favor Union with the metal shaft did a better job of returning to a consistent position.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 True it’s def the mechanical design and cheap parts I think. Let’s hope someone redesigns it one day with better materials.
They have the Favor Union logo stamped on the frame. And these are very new from Favor Union. It would be hard and pointless for someone to try knocking them off, they are just so cheap.
Seems like you are experienced with these analogs, so I'd like some advice, please: I buyed a pair of PS4 Ginfull modules from Aliexpress (the cheapest ones, expecting some trial and error) and I'm wondering if there are differences between prices. And about the magnetic "potentiometers", are Ginfull ones compatible with ALPS? I've many Dualshock 4's with good analog modules and bad potentiometers, and I'm looking for a cost-effective solution, trying to reuse everything I can. That being said, thanks in advance, and I'm looking forward for more content. Keep it up!
Here is a video on the Ginfull V5s: ruclips.net/video/5eDPQaIi0yg/видео.htmlsi=ca63bl8atc64QBNY . But neither these Favor Union nor the Ginfull V5s in the linked video will work in a DualShock 4. The DualShock 4s I've looked at require a joystick with one of the Hall sensors VCC and Ground pins to be reversed. So a Hall effect joystick for the PS5 is not interchangeable with one for the PS4 controllers.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks for the info; and yes, I know that Dualshock 4 needs a special kind of sensor (yellow/black) and that's the one I've got. However, my desoldering skills are far from good and only managed to install just one. It seems to work, but need more testing.
Yes, The data sheet for the Favor Union lists a minimum of 1.7 and a maximum of 5.5 volts. The Hall sensor data sheet for the Ginfull joystick lists up to 5 volts as well.
hello dear! how I can calibrate hall sensors without gamepad? because xbox calibration is dead I want to setting up sensors outside of gamepad and istall it after
Without calibration software, the only thing I know of is deforming the joystick shaft to shift the center position. There are some add-on boards for the joystick to help with center and circularity, but I've never tried them.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 @metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for the answer dear! i mean what a electrical circuit i can made to callibrate sensors with multimeter. and i purchased boards to calibrate, but simple, just with two vari resistors, but doubt that it helps me with hall effect
I've been eyeing a lot of these hall effect joysticks, but I'm seeing that a lot of them have parts that could be interchangeable... So my question would be... Cos I'm a rookie on this department... Could you technically change some of the parts from 1 hall effect stick with another one, and assemble the frankenstein of hall effect joysticks that's got the best chips and best capacitors from each to make one that's essentially the best of all worlds?
I'm applying 1.8 volts across the sensor and then measuring the voltage at the center lead. A perfectly centered axis will have 0.90 volts on the center lead.
@@metalplasticelectronics354Oo , right, my dumb ass thought it was 0.9 microseconds instead of 996, lol. So they are like 40 time faster right, or is it the fall time not a good way to determine their latency ?
My favorite ATM is the Ginfull V5, I like the extra smoothness. There shouldn't be any drift with any of them. They should stay just as they are until something breaks. Not really anything that wears other than the plastic parts in the joystick themselves.
It's a Rigol DHO804, and it is about the cheapest thing I could find with an HDMI output. I've only had it for a few months and am still getting adjusted to it.
Depends on what you want. I like the feel of the Ginfull V5s, but they fill a bit differently than the potentiometer joysticks. I can't tell the difference between the Favor Union and a potentiometer joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for your response. I want the best accuracy. I think I can wait a bit to see if there is a better hall effect joystick soon
The Ginfull V5s feel different, they have a bit of smoothness. That smoothness has to do with the rise and fall times of the sensor output. I'm still working on a setup to get a good accurate reading of those times.
It's not the circularity that I like, it's that bit of smoothness. I don't play any games where a few percent off in circularity would have any effect, I just like the feel of the Ginfull V5s. I think if you are looking for something as close to a potentiometer joystick as possible then the Favor Union is the way to go.
Yes, they work well. If you want the feel of a potentiometer joystick these are the best I've tried. I just like the smoothness of the Ginfull V5s. But the Ginfulls do feel a little different.
By putting tape on the stick you have reduced the percentage of errors in the corners, but now you have empty stick travel in the extreme positions on the axes, which is not better. Who needs those numbers in the game if his stick is already in 100% position before reaching the edge. And it's okay if it's the left stick. But if it's the right stick, you're shirking the stick's sensitivity by depriving it of part of its working stroke.
this review are ... so great. thanks for in depth testing/ review on each component.
Glad it was helpful!
Very much appreciated for doing in depth testing, subbed.
Thanks for the sub!
Appreciate your hard work. I just recieved my pkg. Took 1 week from China to California. I will be installing it tonight. You should email the vendor posting there links. Without your knowledge, i wouldn't have bought this. Thanks
Thanks. It was very fast service, I was surprised.
Been trying these out myself in two separate controllers and the stick feel/tension is very close if not the same as the standard ALPS potentiometer joysticks, which I like. The ginful v5's seem to use a slightly softer spring by comparison. I did have to do the extra calibration using a spacer similar to what you did because mine also weren't reaching the corners fully in the circularity test. I designed little removable spacers and 3D printed them for each stick. Worked great.
One negative I noticed is they have a good amount of jitter even though they were advertised as not having any (both sets I have exhibited jitter), but this hasn't affected gameplay that I could tell. If favor union upgrades their magnet similar to what ginful did on their v5 to get the circularity better on the corners and gets rid of the jitter, these might be the perfect replacement joysticks for me.
3D printed spacer, very nice. The Ginfull joysticks do seem to be a bit softer mechanically. I'm working on a setup to test the different tensions, maybe in the next few months I'll get it finished.
If you were to continuously pick one install in all future controllers would you pick the Ginfull V5 or Favor Union he tested in this video?
@@OmeliGaming Probably the Ginful v5's depending on which types of games you play. For context, I don't play competitive FPS games on console. I can live with the slightly lighter stick tension on the Ginful vs the Favor Unions. They've been the closest to drop in replacements without the need for the extra spacer calibration, yet still came up 5-9% circularity after the software calibration. Zero jitter and no issues with reaching the corners either as the circularity was actually a circle unlike the Favor Unions. They're not the fastest like the Favor Unions as this video showed, but probably the least hassle out of all the ones I've tried in terms of getting them up and running.
The K Silvers had the same issue for me with not reaching the outer bounds and square corners that the Favor Unions did fwiw, so you'd need a physical spacer for calibration on those too if not using one of those solder on calibration boards.
can you please share your spacer? i have been looking for a stl file to do something like this!
I like the fact that hall effect thumbsticks are starting to take off, but the main issue for me is the centering mechanism. The centering mechanism when it starts to wear stick drift will still eventually happen as the centering mechanism stops returning back to its original center. The potentiometer was only one part of the problem with stick drift (and other issues).
Yes but that issue can be fixed with calibration. The stick drift issue weird toggling of drift and changing rate and non-linear responses were the main cause of stick drift you see as a user as controller firmware normally is able to filter most kinds of stick drift already
@@land_and_air1250
That and typically stick drift from slop as a result of a weakening spring is usually fixable by just replacing the apring or even doing something like changing the deadzones slightly.
Slop has to get REALLY bad for it to be really noticeable, and that typically takes upwards of 5-6 YEARS of hours of daily use, so long as you aren't giving your controller the mario party treatment on a regular basis.
Normal use case, the difference in time it takes for slop to be an issue vs 'potentionmeter problems' making themselves known is so long it's not even really worth considering.
@@jtnachos16 this really depends on your environment. If you have any pets that shed hair, or have sand around your controllers, your potentiometers will degrade much faster as not only will those items get in the wipers and screw it up and make it nonlinear, they will result in non-uniform wear patterns which cause permanent damage to the potentiometers as the scratches change the surface resistance. I’ve had controllers develop issues within a year of use and were unclean-able
@@land_and_air1250 I was specifically talking about drift in the framing of stick-slop drift, not potentiometer drift.
Most MODERN potentiometer sticks will last maybe 2 years before they start developing some level of issue, even in 'optimal' conditions, assuming an hour or two of use per day. A hall effect stick, I'd estimate a minimum of 5 years, assuming there isn't some sort of QC fault not related to typical wear, or an abnormally bottom-tier stick.
Both of them are roughly on par when it comes to centering issues related to the centering springs, which is what I was talking about primarily, and is what sets the minimum of 5 years on hall sticks.
I'll also add that sticks like on the joy-cons have additional issues due to how they interact with the board itself, which can't really be solved via third-party sticks. It has to do with them using a shorter more compact stick design, meaning more lateral force on the housing and especially at the edges of the stick housing, wearing out the contacts on the board. Which was why one of the early, sometimes working fixes for joycons, was to stick a bit of foam, layered E-tape, or cardboard in the housing opposite the side of the board with the stick, to provide more sturdy structure and stop flexion from allowing the stick to dig into the contacts on the board it was attached to.
Most the other controllers aren't using sticks that have to have as compact a housing, and thus end up with different issues. There's also the occasional QC problem where a slightly mis-molded shell can cause pressure on the board or stick in an odd location where it's not REALLY noticeable to the user, but will over time create abnormal wear. Usually that is seen on the cheaper third party controllers ,but those also often use normal screws, so getting it solved is often as simple as loosening one of the screws near the location of issue to remove the rubbing contact.
Nah it’s not tbh you can mechanically and softwarely calibrate it. So nah centering won’t be the problem but you should keep your joysticks clean and probably relube it every 2 years or sum
Fantastic video. Very detailed.
Thanks.
There are Ginfull hall sensors that will replace the ALPS sensors without having to replace the joysticks. They are a aqua color.
Do they come as an entire joystick or just the sensor and magnet?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 just the sensors.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 You can get just the sensors (aqua in color and it says "GINFULL" at the bottom of each sensor.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 they come in both ways, circularity is bad with error rate around 19-20%. However ginful released a newer yellow modules with optimized magnets. After calibration with AL's software, i got 3.6% error rate
Can we replace them without any soldering?
Great video with tons of info, thanks! I'm an FPS gamer so I've been looking into getting halls in my dualsense, I just can't do it myself. I have high anxiety and even with pills, I shake so I don't trust myself with small parts let alone soldering
I like the tention in these sticks. The speed is impressive. I have these behind calibration boards. Circularity is a bit annoying. But its pretty decent.
It's not bad at all.
I use these sticks and during range calibration I do 1 circle not pushing half a centimetre and it work great
Heads up: at 1:06 you've got an extremely high pitched whine in the audio. Check your audio spectrum and you'll likely see a spike you need to filter out
Thanks, I didn't even hear that when doing the video.
Great video as always, thank you! Would you mind making a video about how you test these joysticks before you install them (like at 2:41)? What values you look for and what those values could possibly mean after installation? Thank you again
A perfectly centered joystick axis would read 900 millivolts on the output. Of course, each axis has a range of resting positions. So I consider a near-perfect joystick axis to read about 880 mV to 920 mV through its resting range. If it's out by more than 60 millivolts it will start to affect range circularity.
New SUB, here! Thank you for this type of reviews, very detailed and instructive!
Thanks for the sub!
i feel like the hal sticks with a full metal housing for shielding would be the best and worth installing in everything
Do you know what the brand name is?
@@metalplasticelectronics354he was suggesting what would be good
Your videos are very informative.
I would like you to try the Gulikit hall effect when it comes out.
I'll check it out!
great vid. any suggestions for ps4 controller sticks?
I'm pretty sure the GuliKit TMR kits are out now for the PS4. And it probably won't be long before the K-Silver TMR joysticks are available for the PS4. I would go with one of those 2.
Not sure if i missed it in a previous vid but could you please explain how to pre test the joysticks with a multimeter. Like multimeter settings and best joystick to use out the pack with numbers please. I'm planning on buying the ginful v2s but with 10 in the pack, i want the first two to be the last two.
Take a look at this video at the 1:20 mark: ruclips.net/video/B9fJFDNpYD8/видео.htmlsi=LpHxx6NTzB4-UMnW . You are looking for the output voltage from each sensor to be as close as possible to 0.900 volts. If it reads over 0.970 volts or under 0.830 volts, I wouldn't use that joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks for the reply. Just ordered some and i want to make sure i don't install faulty hardware. That vid definitely did help.
basicamente, no se recomienda comprarlos, o estoy en lo incorrecto?, saludos desde México
Super great detailed video. Ty for making it.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this! Have you considered taking the favor union sensor and placing it on the ginful v5 body? I wonder if the longer curved magnet will provide a better range.
I haven't tried, but I will.
@@metalplasticelectronics354I'm looking forward to that test! What do you think after using these sticks for a bit?
Man, getting so close. I'm still not ready to ditch potentiometers, but we're almost there... One thing that is really important to me is aiming resolution. Do these sensors match the DualSense bit resolution?
Seem to, seem to put out an analog signal.
How do you calibrate these once installed on a dualsense or dualsense edge?
You use this site for the DualSense: dualshock-tools.github.io/ . The edge is not yet supported, at least since I last checked. Someone may need to start a pressure campaign on Sony to get them to release the info for the calibration codes for the controller.
my joystick is starting to fail and i'm at a bit of a loss, what's the ideal hall sensor to buy today? are these and the oranges comparable to ones that include a pcb board?
Shouldn't need one with a PC board for the DualSence now that calibration software is available now. These Favor Union are faster than the Ginfull V5 but the Ginfull have better circularity.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you!
can we swap this sensor with ginfull mechanics for better center dead zone?
I plan on testing it on the Ginfull V5 with the shaped magnet.
Take a look at this: ruclips.net/user/shortsSCEM8DuNlMQ
Hello, I used to have a Gamesir T4 Pro gamepad but the joysticks started to drift. Now I want to build a new gamepad using the circuit board. Size doesn't matter because I'll use a cable, but I'm not sure if it will work properly if I replace the old potentiometer analog joystick with a Hall Effect one. Can you help me?
You will have to see how the potentiometers are hooked up. Have to know how much voltage is going to which pin to see if these will work.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I tested it specifically with my controller. There are 3.3 volts on + and -, and 1.65 volts on the middle pin when the stick is stationary. However, voltage values are not given on sites such as Aliexpress. There are statements such as PS4 PS5 Xbox compatible
hey man can you do vid hall effect vs tmr
What do you think about the k silver?
Here is a video on the K-Silver Hall effect joysticks: ruclips.net/video/B9fJFDNpYD8/видео.htmlsi=xLaVvCaOrW_QLt5t . I've got a set of the new K-Silver TMR joysticks on order. So hopefully in a couple of weeks, I'll have a video up about them.
Hi there, I finally decided to install the hall effect analogs on my controllers, but I just can't find yet a good tutorial that explains how to calibrate them after the installation. Did you do anything like this? That would be very helpful, thank you.
Take a look at this video: ruclips.net/video/0fK1sapv0YI/видео.htmlsi=uP942-chTiECG8n9
I will go with Ginful V5
It is my favorite.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 is V3 still good enough? It's hard to buy the new V5 in my country
Depends on what sensor IC is in it. If it is 93L35 then I wouldn't use it. This sensor has an extremely long fall time, I measured over 200 milliseconds. If the sensor IC is either 93L41 or 93L43 then should be ok to use. The 41 is just 20 to 30 milliseconds slower than the 43. Both have a slightly smoother feel than a potentiometer joystick. Of course, you will have to buy the joysticks to see what sensor IC is in it. I sure wish the companies selling them would list the sensor IC.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you.
I need bought it first to see the sensor name. The label is L-8J (I see on v5 is L-4B). Hope it have 93L41 or 93L43
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Depending on the seller you can send the store a message asking more details before you commit to buy.
Can you use the same joysticks on a duckshock 4 controller?
I know, they've different version on their website but I was just wondering if anyone has tried it. I have four left overs that I can put in a duckshock controller.
I don't think so. I need to pull apart a DualShock 4 and see how the potentiometers are hooked up. Looking at some pictures for the PS4 Hall effect joysticks makes me think there is a difference. I'll try and pull one apart this week.
I checked and no the DualSense version will not work in the DualShock 4, at least not in the version of the DualShock 4 I have. Vcc and ground are reversed for one sensor on each joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you so much for your response. I have a few duckshock controllers laying around. I am thinking about getting some favor union hall effect sticks for them.
When can we expect you to have a speed test video up on the TMR sticks? I’m also in the beta and waiting for my sticks. I want to find out whether the TMR or favor union sticks are faster
I just ordered them so maybe in a few weeks.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I didn’t know they were available to order. If you get into the test group like the past comment here, you’ll get it within a week
So basically at the moment there is not any real equivalent (or near to) replacement to a potentiometer joystick. It seems that ginfull v5 is on the right path if they will reduce delay on their units.
I would now consider these a potentiometer replacement.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I rewatched your videos and I think I will take those Ginfull units to fix one of my unusable controllers. Then I will test it on FPS games (mostly XDefiant and COD) to see if delay could have any sensible impact.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I've used the Ginfuls and they are great. But the one thing these HE sticks have not defeated is actual centering drift. Sure they defeat ur common potentiometer drift but the actual stick mechanism at the smallest movement still doesn't always centre at 0 and will slightly drift. This is evident in games that have pure 0 inner deadzones like Apex Legends. Won't notice it in COD or Xdefiant as they have built in deadzones in the game engine.
@@OfficialMyMindset I think most of that has to do with the mechanical design of the joystick mechanism. I think the old joysticks from Favor Union with the metal shaft did a better job of returning to a consistent position.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 True it’s def the mechanical design and cheap parts I think. Let’s hope someone redesigns it one day with better materials.
amigo, una pregunta, no hate, como sabes que esos potenciómetros son originales favor union? 👍
They have the Favor Union logo stamped on the frame. And these are very new from Favor Union. It would be hard and pointless for someone to try knocking them off, they are just so cheap.
Seems like you are experienced with these analogs, so I'd like some advice, please:
I buyed a pair of PS4 Ginfull modules from Aliexpress (the cheapest ones, expecting some trial and error) and I'm wondering if there are differences between prices.
And about the magnetic "potentiometers", are Ginfull ones compatible with ALPS? I've many Dualshock 4's with good analog modules and bad potentiometers, and I'm looking for a cost-effective solution, trying to reuse everything I can.
That being said, thanks in advance, and I'm looking forward for more content. Keep it up!
Here is a video on the Ginfull V5s: ruclips.net/video/5eDPQaIi0yg/видео.htmlsi=ca63bl8atc64QBNY . But neither these Favor Union nor the Ginfull V5s in the linked video will work in a DualShock 4. The DualShock 4s I've looked at require a joystick with one of the Hall sensors VCC and Ground pins to be reversed. So a Hall effect joystick for the PS5 is not interchangeable with one for the PS4 controllers.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks for the info; and yes, I know that Dualshock 4 needs a special kind of sensor (yellow/black) and that's the one I've got.
However, my desoldering skills are far from good and only managed to install just one. It seems to work, but need more testing.
This video might help with the joystick replacement: ruclips.net/video/slxgHcYHnm8/видео.htmlsi=8ZgkFY8MvC__eKQO
there is no link to the ginfull v5 ... where can i find them? pls if some one could provide link would be awsome :D
www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806825046849.html is where I ordered them from.
Can this hall sensor works with 5v power supply?
Yes, The data sheet for the Favor Union lists a minimum of 1.7 and a maximum of 5.5 volts. The Hall sensor data sheet for the Ginfull joystick lists up to 5 volts as well.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks alot dude
hello dear! how I can calibrate hall sensors without gamepad? because xbox calibration is dead I want to setting up sensors outside of gamepad and istall it after
Without calibration software, the only thing I know of is deforming the joystick shaft to shift the center position. There are some add-on boards for the joystick to help with center and circularity, but I've never tried them.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 @metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for the answer dear! i mean what a electrical circuit i can made to callibrate sensors with multimeter. and i purchased boards to calibrate, but simple, just with two vari resistors, but doubt that it helps me with hall effect
I've been eyeing a lot of these hall effect joysticks, but I'm seeing that a lot of them have parts that could be interchangeable... So my question would be... Cos I'm a rookie on this department... Could you technically change some of the parts from 1 hall effect stick with another one, and assemble the frankenstein of hall effect joysticks that's got the best chips and best capacitors from each to make one that's essentially the best of all worlds?
Not really, the magnet assembly needs to go with the sensor it's matched for.
How do you do the test with the muiltmeter?
I'm applying 1.8 volts across the sensor and then measuring the voltage at the center lead. A perfectly centered axis will have 0.90 volts on the center lead.
You read the ic upside down its P391
Found the ali link but i guess its not available in amazon ty
So basically they are like 40 thousand times faster than the ginfull v5 sticks or even faster ?
I'm still working on a setup to get a good measurement of the Favor Union. They are a lot faster but not 40000 times.
@@metalplasticelectronics354Oo , right, my dumb ass thought it was 0.9 microseconds instead of 996, lol.
So they are like 40 time faster right, or is it the fall time not a good way to determine their latency ?
@@moisesmendoza5998 Using fall time is a fair reference, I believe that is why these have a little bit of a smooth feel.
Is there a solution if one of the openings burns? Because the temperature was increased
Yes, it's a matter of finding where the pad goes to, and running a wire. You might look up some videos on PC board trace repair.
So what's the best one to get and use for a main controller? Keep in mind, I'm trying to go for the long term
My favorite ATM is the Ginfull V5, I like the extra smoothness. There shouldn't be any drift with any of them. They should stay just as they are until something breaks. Not really anything that wears other than the plastic parts in the joystick themselves.
What oscilloscope do you use?
It's a Rigol DHO804, and it is about the cheapest thing I could find with an HDMI output. I've only had it for a few months and am still getting adjusted to it.
Hello, do you think Optical joysticks could be a reality? I kind of imagined it in 2 ways I even want to draw schematics.
I'm sure it could be done, but cost and power consumption might be the big problems.
These work for dual shock 4 controller ?
Not in the DualShock 4 version I've looked at. Vcc and ground are reversed for one sensor on each joystick.
Do these work in an Xbox One/Series controller?
No
Are they better than ginfull V5 ?
Depends on what you want. I like the feel of the Ginfull V5s, but they fill a bit differently than the potentiometer joysticks. I can't tell the difference between the Favor Union and a potentiometer joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for your response. I want the best accuracy. I think I can wait a bit to see if there is a better hall effect joystick soon
So is this the ones to get? I want one that feels like the original ps joystick without that overly smooth feeling the HE have
I can't tell a difference between these and the standard potentiometers. But keep in mind I'm not a gaming aficionado.
What about the ginfull v5? Does it feel different or is it close to oem as well like this ones? I see those have a better circularity
The Ginfull V5s feel different, they have a bit of smoothness. That smoothness has to do with the rise and fall times of the sensor output. I'm still working on a setup to get a good accurate reading of those times.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok, you think the circularity is a must have?
It's not the circularity that I like, it's that bit of smoothness. I don't play any games where a few percent off in circularity would have any effect, I just like the feel of the Ginfull V5s. I think if you are looking for something as close to a potentiometer joystick as possible then the Favor Union is the way to go.
Basically, it is not recommended to buy them, or am I wrong? Greetings from Mexico
Yes, they work well. If you want the feel of a potentiometer joystick these are the best I've tried. I just like the smoothness of the Ginfull V5s. But the Ginfulls do feel a little different.
This available in an already made controller or do I have to mod my own?
These are pretty new, might give it a few months and see what comes out.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 cool, thanks for the info. You have plans to mess with it review them once they’re out to test the tech?
No, not the controllers. I'm not a big gamer so I couldn't offer much insight into how well a controller performs.
You a bit shaky bud, neurologic issues?
Man i wish i could modify my PS5 controllers 😢
If you have some old controllers lying around could practice on them.
Get one second hand that has drift and try fixing it.
Do hall effect joysticks drain the battery faster?
No
By putting tape on the stick you have reduced the percentage of errors in the corners, but now you have empty stick travel in the extreme positions on the axes, which is not better. Who needs those numbers in the game if his stick is already in 100% position before reaching the edge. And it's okay if it's the left stick. But if it's the right stick, you're shirking the stick's sensitivity by depriving it of part of its working stroke.
Aliexpress link doesn't work
Maybe AliExpress was having problems. I just tried and it went right to the page. Give it another try.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 It doesn't
@@metalplasticelectronics354 no it's really don't
The AliExpress store name is Vaalpaev official store. Should be able to get to it from vaalpaev.aliexpress.com and should be able to find them there.