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No, I only do the videos. You will need some basic electronic tools. This video gives you the minimum set of tools you will need to change out a DualSense joystick: ruclips.net/video/slxgHcYHnm8/видео.htmlsi=HcuH5kglAe2OJe80

No, that was my last video on it. I'm still using it like that. I just did a Porter-Cable 20V battery pack rebuild with it. I do still want to build a power supply for it I just haven't had the time to mess with it. So I still power it with the bench power supply. It takes about a second between pulses for the power supply to charge the capacitors. Maybe come first of the year I will get to the power supply for it. So stay tuned.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Are any of the boards available on PCBway or JLCPCB? I have a 6x MOSFET Chinese welder. It a GX591, whatever that means. It's not quite strong enough for anything over .02 strip. Yours looks fun to build, and have the power for thicker strips.

I'll look and see; it may take me a few days. I think most of the PCBs came from OSH Park, and I'm pretty sure they have a way to make them public to order. The thickest nickel strip I've used is 0.21 mm. Well, that's what it was sold as. When I measured it, I got a reading closer to 0.2mm, but it does a very good job at it.

If that is the ones being called V5S now, I've got some coming.

Yeah that's the one, thank​@@metalplasticelectronics354

Then you got a good one. I think between family members probably had like 8 or 9 DualShock4s and I'm pretty sure there wasn't one of them that I didn't change at least one of the joysticks out in. At the same time, none of them had any problems in the first year or two of use. Can't say that about the DualSense.

DualSense and DualShock4 last I checked.

No, sorry.

Every Alps joystick I've looked at does.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 should I just accept it? I will probs get used but take me a few weeks to get over it and the money I spent. I love the controller otherwise.

It doesn't seem to go away but it also doesn't seem to be a problem. It's just how the Alps joystick are made.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 I’ll keep it since the controller looks so nice. I’ll get used to it.

Check the solder connections and the traces around the 4 switch leads. They seem to be some of the easiest to damage solder pads.

Can you give me the name of who sells them? Can't post a link in the comments but you can email me at mike@mlplel.com.

Thanks

It could be either. You might try doing a hardware reset of the controller and then calibrating it.

I'll see what I can do.

It could be a defective sensor on the up-down axis or a bad connection to the sensor. Is the up-down axis all the way in one direction or in the middle? You will need a multimeter to track down the problem. Take a look at this video: ruclips.net/video/cWUnZ7KjUIQ/видео.htmlsi=y2IzGct5nrjXyxaC

Thanks

Thanks

You use this site for the DualSense: dualshock-tools.github.io/ . The edge is not yet supported, at least since I last checked. Someone may need to start a pressure campaign on Sony to get them to release the info for the calibration codes for the controller.

I'm pretty sure the GuliKit TMR kits are out now for the PS4. And it probably won't be long before the K-Silver TMR joysticks are available for the PS4. I would go with one of those 2.

Did you take yours apart to get it to start working? I still don't know why it wasn't seen on the USB bus till I took mine apart.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 No, just fiddled with drivers, settings, restarts... etc. etc. until it started working. Not exactly confidence inspiring.

Mine's been great once it started working.

Is the Battle Beaver a Sony DualShock4 or is it a second party? If it's a second party I doubt the Calibration site will recognize it. If it is recognized and will power up without the batter it will probably work. But if something were to fail on the USB VBus line it could brick the controller. It is just a matter of how much risk you want to take. I would put a batter in it, if just for the calibration.

It seems to run quite cool when at idle. The only time I really notice any heat from it is when rendering a video or stuff like that. But I run Linux so it may behave a bit differently than Windows on this motherboard. But upgrading to DDR5 and one of the newer processors will make for a lot faster machine.

I did the one calibration after installation and they have been fine.

I would go with the TMR joysticks, the GuliKit, or the K-Silver. I would expect the life of the joysticks to be about the same for all 4.

@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for the reply really appreciate

You could contact Scuf's customer support and tell them that you, as a customer, would like to see their controllers supported on the calibration website. It might not do anything but it couldn't hurt.

Yes, the tolerance is so loose on these that a 2.3K might measure below 2K and a 2.1K might measure above 2.3K. But if you are planning on replacing the potentiometers you might want to look at using the new K-Silver or GuliKit TMR joysticks.

@metalplasticelectronics354 oh alright. I have 2 controllers and when I measured the resistance of all potentiometers one controller gave a reading of 520 Ohms while the other only gave 160 Ohms. Is there any reason to explain why the 2 values are so far off from 2k?

​@@metalplasticelectronics354 Im using the fluke 115 multimeter for measurement

Are you measuring them in the circuit? They should all read about 500 ohms in the circuit, not sure why one would read differently. If that is two different controllers one might still have a little voltage on the 1.8 volt line throwing off the resistance reading.

That should give a very accurate reading.

Try and redo the calibration again. There is no going back to the old values once the NVMEMORY has been updated. If that doesn't work, do a hardware reset on the controller and try again.

Yes, a few different sizes. Just depends on what needs to be bent.

I looked at ordering some quite a while back. I know the ads say for the PS5 but the only values I've seen for the joystick potentiometers are 10K Ohm. That is the value for the DualShock 4 controller. If you have a link for some 2.1 or 2.3K Kailh joysticks you can email me at mike@mlplel.com. thanks.

I usually run at 700 to 750 F and it seems to work fine. At that temperature, you don't want to hold the iron on the solder wick for much more than 5 seconds though.

@ thank you so much 👍🏽

You will probably need a higher-wattage soldering iron. Try using some tin-lead solder it has a lower melting point than the lead-free on the controllers.

They all seem to. And it seems to vary even among the same brand and type of joystick. It's just the nature of the way they are made.

They all seem to. And it seems to vary even among the same brand and type of joystick. It's just the nature of the way they are made.

@metalplasticelectronics354 so this ps4 , ps5 hall effect joysticks have smaller deadzone than default?

No, I think it is about the same.

@metalplasticelectronics354 are you sure? Some people say that hall effect is less deadzone and its accuracy is higher

I really haven't noticed much difference.

If your solder wick gets stuck in the solder, it probably means the soldering iron is not supplying enough heat. The MG chemicals solder wick is of excellent quality, it's my 2nd favorite. I would dump the lead-free solder and get some 63/37 tin-lead, it will have a lower melting point. What kind of soldering iron are you using and do you know the wattage of it?

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Hey, thanks for the reply! Yeah, when I saw your video comparing wicks, I tried the MG Chemicals wick and had trouble, I figured it's user error and I was doing something wrong. I also heard it's best not to mix solder types and to have different tips for leaded and lead-free solder. Since the controllers used lead-free I stuck with that type. Is that true or is it fine to mix and match? Iron is a Pinecil V2, google says it's up to 88 watts. I'm powering it via USB-C with a 65W GaN PD3.0 charger and PD3.1 supported USB-C cable. Using a cone tip but recently ordered a D.24 as I heard that's more effective at heat transfer.

I try to get rid of all the old lead-free solder. Flood the joint with leaded solder, wick it off, and most of the lead-free will be gone. I've never used the Pinecil iron. But if you power it with a 65-watt supply, I would expect less than 60 watts of heat from the tip. The bigger tip should help, but you might want a bigger power supply if the iron can handle up to 88 watts.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 Alright, I'll try that. Thank you. The power supply in terms of spec, matches what Pinecil recommend. I did use the bigger tip earlier today and it was a lot better, still got stuck but as I practiced more it was getting stuck less. I'll keep practice and learning, and try some leaded solder. Thank you for the help and all the videos as well! <3

The leaded solder will help with the sticking part. Good luck.

I'll take a look at that.

The only place I know of that sold them was kasynparts.com. But they were too expensive; you might as well buy a new controller.

I don't know if the Xbox version is out yet, I don't see it from where I bought these.

Do you have the name of an aliexpress shop that is selling them?

@@metalplasticelectronics354 also he is the same seller that you left his link in V5 video

@@metalplasticelectronics354 for some reason youtube deletes my links i can DM you the new product or you can ask the seller (VaalPaev Official Store) and ask him for the V6 of the product also he is the same seller as the one that you left in your Ginfull V5 Video

@@metalplasticelectronics354 DUDE why can't i reply to your comment if you can see this i can DM you the product or check the same seller VaalPaev Official Store and ask him for V6 of the product

@@metalplasticelectronics354 for some reason youtube deletes my reply

That's very good.

I feel that Ginfull is the softest of all the joystick brands I've tested.

@@metalplasticelectronics354 So TMR K-Silver would be near similar to the original ALPS than Ginfull??

Yes

​@@metalplasticelectronics354 Ok, thanks for the advice and for make so interesting helpfull videos

Yes

Kind of strange not having the curved magnet. Maybe someone trying to move some old inventory?

@metalplasticelectronics354 Maybe. Was one of those small marketplace sellers under a megastore umbrella. Like Amazon. Don't really know if the higher IC numbers mean newer revision necessarily though. Maybe it's just for another manufacturing line or something. Anyway, it can't possibly make my super erratic controller worse at least. 🥔

I'm reasonably sure it's a manufacture date code, so it's a later-produced Hall sensor. Even with the rectangular magnet, it's still a good joystick.

Congratulations, that was quite an undertaking. And don't sell yourself short, to pull that all apart, fix the rubber diaphragm, and then put it all back together. That requires a very handy person.

I still can't believe it works, everytime I use it. Maybe I'm just good at following instructions. All I know is there was a 0% chance I ever fixed this without your video and finding the answer. Can't appreciate it enough. I've tried to pay it forward to others I saw with the same issue, online, but most are years ago. It was a hell of an adventure and in the end it was incredible you found that small hole as the issue. ​@@metalplasticelectronics354