@@metalplasticelectronics354 I seen 1 review but the person tried them on a Edge controller without a calibration board. And you know the calibration can't be changed yet by the user using the calibration website. fingers crossed you get the correct version. If you have to get a refund then I would use the store from the email I sent since they have a lot of good ratings.
@@metalplasticelectronics354I've got the latest model of Ginfull with L-4C printed on it with 93L43 IC still, but they bring back the rectangular magnet for best circularity movement I guess..
5:05 Seems to relate to the factory set response curve but they penned it out for some reason, off set reprogramed parameters maybe 🤷🏼♂️. Considering DS4 pots where primarily 3 coded then Dualsense was 8 coded. Its like the batch coding has been scrambled now the reprogramming software is available 🕵🏼♂️. L & R was colour coded to the side pot polarity but super seeded if you can flip the magnet. Im so suspicious it feels like an active atempt to make it harder for the general public to know what there doing with repairs, like there scrambling the ☯️🙃 code 🤦🏼♂️. Suspicion & paranoia are on the same end of the wave form no like being woke the right way or ignorant & asleep lol. Anyway circularity over the line consistently to 10% is fine as long as you dont experience rapid menu 📜 scrolling or over shoting menu options. It grants a good buffer zone overlap of the 2 axis in the diagonals for games that use throttle & steering on the same stick. BF4 F35 jet hover throttle maximised control when steering sharp is a prime example of it. Besides if your stick clip in friction rings are worn down then you replace them your tilt range will reduce a bit 🤏🏼. Case stick centres & solder leveling physical tolerances are never exact across all case moulds nor is the analog stick hole 🕳️ depth for tilt range. I would not worry about Avg Error 0% based on that logic i prefer the outer 100% zone slightly bigger for physical recalibration not having access to a PC.
Bought the tomsin Hall effects a while back and installed on joystick on the right stick of my ps5 controller. Found out of the calibration software from your video and used it. Circularity went from 20% to 7.5% max.
I only have the DualSense and DualShock controllers. From the testing I've done the K-Silver has a pretty fast response time. If you want to use a Hall effect joystick I would go with those.
I would say a beginner needs a better soldering iron than someone with lots of soldering experience. A soldering iron that can't transfer enough heat is a very frustrating thing to deal with. My main use iron is a Hakko FX-951 soldering station. It is the best soldering iron I've ever had. Unfortunately, it's not cheap. If soldering is something you want to do regularly I would get the best iron you can afford. I'm currently looking at some of Amazon's very cheap soldering irons. A couple of them might work for a small one-off job. But I wouldn't recommend that any of them be used to learn soldering.
Have you encountered any defective hall effect sticks in your tests? I replaced my original, drifting sticks with hall effect ones. The right stick is reading correctly; but the left stick is stuck at -1 on axis 0. Thought the stick might be defective, so I replaced it with another one and got the same issue. So not sure if I got unlucky with 2/3 sticks being bad, or if I've just messed something up.
So far I have not run across any defective ones. That would be the left-right axis outputting close to 0 volts. I would look for a short or open trace around the left-right sensor pins. Could be a bit of solder shorting out the center pin. If you have a meter I would check for that first. Can look at this video for some ideas ruclips.net/video/cWUnZ7KjUIQ/видео.htmlsi=O0b3WH3HM92Bpzs9 .
Have you tried the ksilver sticks with the calibration software yet? I have some sitting tlhere with the calibration board that i want to install without the board, but if if doesnt play nicely on its own i dont want to waste time.
I bought these Hall Effect Joystick from AliExpress and and theyre magnetic is different from the others. I felt like them are way better once you calibrate through the website you show us. Is there a way i can send you a picture?
You can email me at mike@mlplel.com. I just got in some of the later versions of this joystick with the different magnets and I'm testing them out now. I'll get a video up in a few days if all goes well.
Very cool video. Could you try and make some for the Switch? I just got an used one and the right stick is making some noise so I´m thinking about changing them to hall sensors
@@chamsv3448 I know, that's not the issue. But there are some different options then Gulikit and I was thinking he could test them. Anyways, I installed a Gulikit pair on mine and works fine.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you.. been trying to search for something like you had in the video since I watched it yesterday.. excellent video! Please keep them coming and if you do end up fabricating something please make a few of them.. I would be interested in purchasing one.
Strange the v5 ginfull have completely vanished, can't find them on ali, there was a video of the v5 on youtube but that also got wipe. Not a good sign
@@metalplasticelectronics354Yup the link is dead, good thing you got them before they completely disappear. Listing is gone on ali is somewhat normal for site like that but even the video (presumably taken from the ali listing and then got uploaded on youtube) is also gone. And all of that happened in just a week too. Anyway, looking forward to see your testing video.
@@metalplasticelectronics354maybe it's ali's problem or my geo location problem. Using the direct link gives "can't find product" but manually search ali with "hall effect joystick ps5 v5" did show the seller. Anyway glad it wasn't gone, looking forward to your testing👍
Looking forward to the V5 review. Easiest way to tell if they are the updated V5 is the magnet will be bigger and not rectangular in shape.
I hope I get them in a few weeks and they are the correct ones.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I seen 1 review but the person tried them on a Edge controller without a calibration board. And you know the calibration can't be changed yet by the user using the calibration website. fingers crossed you get the correct version. If you have to get a refund then I would use the store from the email I sent since they have a lot of good ratings.
@@metalplasticelectronics354I've got the latest model of Ginfull with L-4C printed on it with 93L43 IC still, but they bring back the rectangular magnet for best circularity movement I guess..
5:05 Seems to relate to the factory set response curve but they penned it out for some reason, off set reprogramed parameters maybe 🤷🏼♂️.
Considering DS4 pots where primarily 3 coded then Dualsense was 8 coded.
Its like the batch coding has been scrambled now the reprogramming software is available 🕵🏼♂️.
L & R was colour coded to the side pot polarity but super seeded if you can flip the magnet.
Im so suspicious it feels like an active atempt to make it harder for the general public to know what there doing with repairs, like there scrambling the ☯️🙃 code 🤦🏼♂️.
Suspicion & paranoia are on the same end of the wave form no like being woke the right way or ignorant & asleep lol.
Anyway circularity over the line consistently to 10% is fine as long as you dont experience rapid menu 📜 scrolling or over shoting menu options.
It grants a good buffer zone overlap of the 2 axis in the diagonals for games that use throttle & steering on the same stick.
BF4 F35 jet hover throttle maximised control when steering sharp is a prime example of it.
Besides if your stick clip in friction rings are worn down then you replace them your tilt range will reduce a bit 🤏🏼.
Case stick centres & solder leveling physical tolerances are never exact across all case moulds nor is the analog stick hole 🕳️ depth for tilt range.
I would not worry about Avg Error 0% based on that logic i prefer the outer 100% zone slightly bigger for physical recalibration not having access to a PC.
Bought the tomsin Hall effects a while back and installed on joystick on the right stick of my ps5 controller. Found out of the calibration software from your video and used it. Circularity went from 20% to 7.5% max.
Nice
i have the gamsir t4 and i get 0.1-0.5% whatever modules they have they are insanely good
came home for shopping, thought: wonder if theres any updates about hall effect sticks, boom uploaded 17 min ago
Can you make a video about all analogs, to test them all and find out one of the best for FPS games, sensor lag, sensitivity etc.
I only have the DualSense and DualShock controllers. From the testing I've done the K-Silver has a pretty fast response time. If you want to use a Hall effect joystick I would go with those.
What soldering iron do you recommend for a beginner? One that will work with PS5 solder
I would say a beginner needs a better soldering iron than someone with lots of soldering experience. A soldering iron that can't transfer enough heat is a very frustrating thing to deal with. My main use iron is a Hakko FX-951 soldering station. It is the best soldering iron I've ever had. Unfortunately, it's not cheap. If soldering is something you want to do regularly I would get the best iron you can afford. I'm currently looking at some of Amazon's very cheap soldering irons. A couple of them might work for a small one-off job. But I wouldn't recommend that any of them be used to learn soldering.
There's V5 now? Damn, might really playing this waiting game until a really good version show up
The V5 is going to be the best currently of the Ginful type. Can't wait and see his review.
Does anybody know what gauge wire is in the dualsense?
Have you encountered any defective hall effect sticks in your tests? I replaced my original, drifting sticks with hall effect ones. The right stick is reading correctly; but the left stick is stuck at -1 on axis 0. Thought the stick might be defective, so I replaced it with another one and got the same issue. So not sure if I got unlucky with 2/3 sticks being bad, or if I've just messed something up.
So far I have not run across any defective ones. That would be the left-right axis outputting close to 0 volts. I would look for a short or open trace around the left-right sensor pins. Could be a bit of solder shorting out the center pin. If you have a meter I would check for that first. Can look at this video for some ideas ruclips.net/video/cWUnZ7KjUIQ/видео.htmlsi=O0b3WH3HM92Bpzs9 .
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I will take a look. Thanks for the reply!
Have you tried the ksilver sticks with the calibration software yet? I have some sitting tlhere with the calibration board that i want to install without the board, but if if doesnt play nicely on its own i dont want to waste time.
This video ruclips.net/video/0fK1sapv0YI/видео.htmlsi=_VaKT4x5zs3KbHZJ at 7:44 is a controller with a K-sliver joystick and the calibration software.
I bought these Hall Effect Joystick from AliExpress and and theyre magnetic is different from the others. I felt like them are way better once you calibrate through the website you show us. Is there a way i can send you a picture?
You can email me at mike@mlplel.com. I just got in some of the later versions of this joystick with the different magnets and I'm testing them out now. I'll get a video up in a few days if all goes well.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok than that might be the ones I have. But I'll send you pictures
Very cool video. Could you try and make some for the Switch? I just got an used one and the right stick is making some noise so I´m thinking about changing them to hall sensors
I don't have a Switch, sorry.
just change them like a basic joystick module
@@chamsv3448 I know, that's not the issue. But there are some different options then Gulikit and I was thinking he could test them. Anyways, I installed a Gulikit pair on mine and works fine.
Where do you buy the leads that connects to your multimeter that can test the leads on the joystick? Do you have a url
I made them using the female pins from this kit: a.co/d/c1wE38y. I'm still looking for a better socket pin for them. But can get by with these.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you.. been trying to search for something like you had in the video since I watched it yesterday.. excellent video! Please keep them coming and if you do end up fabricating something please make a few of them.. I would be interested in purchasing one.
Strange the v5 ginfull have completely vanished, can't find them on ali, there was a video of the v5 on youtube but that also got wipe. Not a good sign
I ordered 10 of these a couple of weeks ago: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806825046849.html?channel=twinner Have them and working on testing atm.
@@metalplasticelectronics354Yup the link is dead, good thing you got them before they completely disappear. Listing is gone on ali is somewhat normal for site like that but even the video (presumably taken from the ali listing and then got uploaded on youtube) is also gone. And all of that happened in just a week too.
Anyway, looking forward to see your testing video.
I would check back on the link now and then, I have seen items come back.
@@metalplasticelectronics354maybe it's ali's problem or my geo location problem. Using the direct link gives "can't find product" but manually search ali with "hall effect joystick ps5 v5" did show the seller. Anyway glad it wasn't gone, looking forward to your testing👍
Do these increase the sticks input lag compared to the potentiometer ones?
Yes, all will have a bit more lag than a potentiometer joystick. But It could be such a small amount as to not matter.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I see, so that time difference measure in the video I assume is that delay, so like 4ms
Yes, but I'm working on a better test setup to distinguish between propagation and slew delays.