I've been using budget soldering irons pretty much my entire life. I've used them on everything from electronics to automotive, etc and it always seemed like a fight. Tearing off pads with solder wick. Trying to unsolder components through eyelets. It was all just so time consuming and difficult. Trying to replace the sticks on my PS5 controller was the last straw. I bought a Hakko FX-888DX and a FR301-82 Desoldering Tool. OMG, I can't believe the difference. Sounds advice from MPE here. Buy the best you can afford. It'll be worth the money to save the frustration and the damage you can inflict by using sketchy budget irons.
I stopped using using soldering irons that don't have the heating element and temp probe built into the tips. The style of these cheap irons use "dumb tips" (no heating element, no temp probe) their heating element is mounted in the handle, same place the temp probe is located. I highly recommend the FNIRSI HS-02A you can get it for around $30 or more depending on the accessories you add. Powered through USB type-C (doesn't use a internal battery) You can use a phone charger, laptop charger or power bank to power it.
12:28 This was exactly what I did! Sure the tip is more expensive that the iron itself BUT total up both will be STILL much cheaper than a proper iron. I bought a hakko T18 C1 for $10 which makes it $15 total, it did micro-soldering like a champ! Modded my switch oled using this combo. The tips they give for free are just trash.
I would look at some reviews for soldering stations. And if you can afford it go with one that has the tip, heater, and thermocouple as one piece. I've seen some listings for stations that used Hakko T12/T15 tips but I haven't tried any of them. But something along that line would be better than a standalone soldering iron. In my opinion.
Would be curious to see you try these tests with a Hakko FX600. It's certainly not under $20, but for (as of this writing) USD $38 on Amazon for a genuine Hakko with temperature control and a 67 W advertised rating when fed 120 VAC, it seems promising at a much lower price point than a full fledged $140 FX-888DX.
I believe the FX600 is like a 50-watt iron. Being Hakko I expect it will deliver about that much heat. I'm also quite sure it would outperform any of the irons I tested in this video, But 50 watts would be a bit low to use on multi-layer PCBs like the DualSense board.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 The FX600 is 50 W when run on 100 VAC as in Hakko’s home country of Japan. On 120 V it’s rated at 74 W. (67 W is for the 601 and 600D.)
KSGER t12 v3.1s (not the mini) from AE. Grab extra T12 BC2 soldering tip if not included. Soldering tip cleaner, the copper one not the sponge. Low melting solder, Mechanic TY-866 or TX-100 should do the job. Good desoldering wick like Mechanic R300/R350. A flux, no idea about this one. Got one while back from Mechanic it do the job and there is other one, kingbo rma218 for half the price but didn't test it yet.
@@SmokedBarbecue Thanks, I will check out that ksger. I have good solder, flux, and wick (the wick I actually got based on an MPE video where he compared the wicks) and even a tip cleaner, but my iron sucks.
Somewhere I have some Hakko 900M tips, I couldn't find them so I put a T18 tip on it to try. The tips are probably the weakest point of all these irons. Any good quality tip would improve the usability of these irons.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I bought the kernowo 68 watt soldering kit with the solder, flux, pump, stand, tweezers, different tips, and sponge as well as a carrying case for $20
Great video!
I've been using budget soldering irons pretty much my entire life. I've used them on everything from electronics to automotive, etc and it always seemed like a fight. Tearing off pads with solder wick. Trying to unsolder components through eyelets. It was all just so time consuming and difficult. Trying to replace the sticks on my PS5 controller was the last straw. I bought a Hakko FX-888DX and a FR301-82 Desoldering Tool. OMG, I can't believe the difference. Sounds advice from MPE here. Buy the best you can afford. It'll be worth the money to save the frustration and the damage you can inflict by using sketchy budget irons.
I stopped using using soldering irons that don't have the heating element and temp probe built into the tips. The style of these cheap irons use "dumb tips" (no heating element, no temp probe) their heating element is mounted in the handle, same place the temp probe is located.
I highly recommend the FNIRSI HS-02A you can get it for around $30 or more depending on the accessories you add. Powered through USB type-C (doesn't use a internal battery) You can use a phone charger, laptop charger or power bank to power it.
Yes, once you use an integrated tip and heater you don't want to use anything else.
Any difference between the 02A and the 02B
The 02B is for smaller micro soldering like phone repair. They use slightly smaller tips.
@@syn80 thanks mate
12:28
This was exactly what I did! Sure the tip is more expensive that the iron itself BUT total up both will be STILL much cheaper than a proper iron.
I bought a hakko T18 C1 for $10 which makes it $15 total, it did micro-soldering like a champ!
Modded my switch oled using this combo. The tips they give for free are just trash.
Then what's a good recommendation for an iron that's gonna be used for mostly joystick repair?
I would look at some reviews for soldering stations. And if you can afford it go with one that has the tip, heater, and thermocouple as one piece. I've seen some listings for stations that used Hakko T12/T15 tips but I haven't tried any of them. But something along that line would be better than a standalone soldering iron. In my opinion.
I have some of Favor Unions new modules that are found online yet. They have much better circularity and lower power consumption
Maybe cheap cartridge type iron test next? t12/15 and whatever type jbc is using
Do you know of any cheap models? I would be interested in taking a look at them.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 There's quite a few. Yihua, quicko, KSGER, OSS and a few more.
Would be curious to see you try these tests with a Hakko FX600. It's certainly not under $20, but for (as of this writing) USD $38 on Amazon for a genuine Hakko with temperature control and a 67 W advertised rating when fed 120 VAC, it seems promising at a much lower price point than a full fledged $140 FX-888DX.
I believe the FX600 is like a 50-watt iron. Being Hakko I expect it will deliver about that much heat. I'm also quite sure it would outperform any of the irons I tested in this video, But 50 watts would be a bit low to use on multi-layer PCBs like the DualSense board.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 The FX600 is 50 W when run on 100 VAC as in Hakko’s home country of Japan. On 120 V it’s rated at 74 W. (67 W is for the 601 and 600D.)
Thanks, I'll have to look closer at it might have to order one.
Ok, so since all of these are not very good, what are some good ones to get?
KSGER t12 v3.1s (not the mini) from AE.
Grab extra T12 BC2 soldering tip if not included.
Soldering tip cleaner, the copper one not the sponge.
Low melting solder, Mechanic TY-866 or TX-100 should do the job.
Good desoldering wick like Mechanic R300/R350.
A flux, no idea about this one. Got one while back from Mechanic it do the job and there is other one, kingbo rma218 for half the price but didn't test it yet.
@@SmokedBarbecue Thanks, I will check out that ksger. I have good solder, flux, and wick (the wick I actually got based on an MPE video where he compared the wicks) and even a tip cleaner, but my iron sucks.
@@DonaldWymanif you have not yet bought one he just released a video on a really good one. That’s what I would recommend.
@@originsmaster8140 I got one of the ones @smokedbarbecue recommended, but I will check that video out.
Just the introduction is forcing me to buy a new iron
Don't buy any of these as an upgrade. These are the bottom of the barrel.
@@metalplasticelectronics354oh no I meant because you said don’t use cheap ones such as this if you’re going to be using more than once a month.
Oh, then yes get a new iron by all means.
You need test it with good tips, those tips are ass, test it with (mechanic) brand tips they good tips ,and do a new vídeo pls
Somewhere I have some Hakko 900M tips, I couldn't find them so I put a T18 tip on it to try. The tips are probably the weakest point of all these irons. Any good quality tip would improve the usability of these irons.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 yes You can try with t18 tips and try it on all this irons
This explains why I have such a hard time swapping potentiometers to hall sensors on the 6 controllers I have done.
If you are using any of these irons, then yes. The Meakest brand one might work but I would want something better.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 yeah I’ve done 6 controllers now and sometimes it feels like I can’t even melt the solder.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I bought the kernowo 68 watt soldering kit with the solder, flux, pump, stand, tweezers, different tips, and sponge as well as a carrying case for $20