Ford Escort MK1 MK2 Classic Ford DIY RWD Zetec Sump inc Plans
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- Ford Escort MK1 Restoration Project. In this episode we fabricate a RWD Zetec conversion sump and show plans to.
Throughout the project we will build tools to help us along the way, the custom tools we build, we will upload our how-to videos
👉🏻 Subscribe to our channel ✅: / @davesgarageuk
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🛠️By the way: Ade (a.k.a Adrian) also has a RUclips channel where him and his wife are converting a minibus to an off-grid camper: / @sammyadeadventures
#FordEscortMK1Restoration #DavesGarage #SammyAdeAdventures
Top job dave
Well, Dave. I take my hat off to you. Fantastic work 👏 👍
Thank you 😊
I didn't realize so many people were converting the 2.0 zetec to rear wheel drive. When I went online to maybe get an idea, I was slammed with videos.
I really appreciate these kind of videos. Actual how to instructions. Thanks for this.
Yep, it's a popular upgrade, cracking engines too, much better than the duratec that replaced it
Love watching your craftsmanship mate. Even your square is custom made!
Fantastic work very clever
Top job Dave 👍👍👍
great work dave
So finally here is something, I’m a truly expert on.
First, I would say that you did an excellent job of planning out both the shape, and the sequence along with the appropriate features.
Here are some things to know when building liquid tight sheet metal weldments.
The welds should be bubbling through on the backside in a continuous blue streak. This takes practice but it is an indication of good penetration. If you can achieve this, then it will be OK to carefully buff the welds smooth, being careful not to get into the parent metal as this will weaken the joint. Fine grits are the order of the day.
The welded corners don’t have to be square. Make a simple welded dolly with a half inch diameter bar as the mandrel portion. First, take a cut-off wheel and slit a single pass through the tacked joint to be welded. Place your homemade dolly tightly against the inside of the joint and hammer the edges over. This will create a quarter inch radius on the corner. Re-tack the corners.
The best joints have a definite gap but no wider than the metal thickness. This makes for good penetration. The joint should be backed-up with a close-fitting aluminum rod.
Warming the piece before welding will tend to minimize warpage. 200°F is about right. I use a digital thermometer but a 203°F Tempilstik (a.co/d/gld7biN) is probably a better choice. The Tempilstiks are consumable so I prefer the digital thermometer. The heating process should be done uniformly. Otherwise it’s possible to warp the piece with the preheating, itself.
The process of making cold rolled steel crushes trash into the surface. This trash will compromise the quality of the weld. To remove this, buff lightly with a fine grit disc. This is almost impossible with the 20 gauge steel used in this oil pan. It’s so thin as to make it very possible to grind the edge to nothing.
So here’s the coup de grace on leak proofing welded steel containers. Loctite 290 is not only a thread sealer but it also seals weld porosity when applied correctly. The proper temperature is 180°F. I monitor the temperature with the digital thermometer until it gets below 200°F and then take an acid brush and paint all the welds. Painting one side is adequate. I’d prefer to do this after all the welds are polished which requires reheating the piece to 180°F. I do all my preheating with a propane weed-burner (www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-with-push-button-igniter-91037.html).
The Loctite 290 is good to about 500°F. So if your pan leaks, you’ve got bigger problems than the leak itself.
I have used the Loctite 290 with 100% success both at work and at home. A pressure test is still a good idea though. For an oil pan I would use 3-5psi. Much more than that, you’ll permanently deform the oil pan.
One final note, modifying the factory oil pan will not likely work out as the stress induced in deep-drawing the part to shape is so great that cracking of the parent metal is almost a done deal if you mess with it. The only way to get around this would be to heat the oil pan to about 1100°F to stress relieve the piece. Pretty much a nonstarter.
Fantastic, good to have an expert view, thank you 😊
Lovely job, Dave,
You're a brave man, Dave. I walked into my garage last week, turned around, and walked out. It was freezing lol
It is freezing 🥶
Nice one Dave 👍
Great work Dave!
Dave that was incredible.
Thank you 😊
Your a mate for sharing the dimensions! Thanks!
Fantastic 👍
Lovely job Dave saved some pounds 👏👏 put some red diesel in the sump just to check for leaks. done it in past when repaired sumps you can see it weep out pin hole's 👍
Thanks Sid, good idea, but I've almost completed a test rig now 🤣🤣
@@DavesGarageuk clad to help Dave . Bet you spent hours on the test rig 👍
Nice job👍
Another "thinking out of the box" idea Dave, inspiring. Amazing how you formed the recesses to avoid big end caps collision, that part looks machine made. Well done mate
Thank you 😊
Your a clever lad. I have finally solved the Halfords weld through primer spray cap blocking up issue...simply use a Hammerite one.
🤣🤣 why didn't I think of that
Well done Dave brilliant work as always. Thanks for doing these videos 👍
Thank you, and you're very welcome
Absolute quality craftman ship inspiring me to do a st170 conversion
They're a brilliant engine
This is just great!
Another brilliant example of your home garage engineering dave loved the talking explanation and tuition thankyou, your channel is entertaining as well as teaching..every episode I'm learning and being inspired more and more with my own projects..cant wait to see finished product escort..❤
Thank you Tony 😊
Thanks for taking the time out to so us all how it can be done many thanks for sharing and good luck with the rest of the build.
Thank you 😊
Well done Dave it’s nice to see parts being made from scratch I cannot weld myself but find it interesting watching a finished product
Thank you William 😊
Thanks Dave, another really enjoyable episode.
Glad you enjoyed it
Amazing skills Dave, you are a legend!!!!!!
Thank you 😊
Absolutely Amazing, so pleased you are kneeling on something, please keep warm whilst in there, maybe wear a hat more often to keep away any chill..
Ah, thanks for caring 😊
Lovely job Dave. Those big end reliefs are mint.
Thank you, how's the MK1 Transit coming along, love those 😍
@Dave's Garage coming on but it's one of those situations where you do a bit more, then a bit more lol, you'll see in the next couple if vids which are from this year.
And, if I didn't have enough projects already we just picked up a new one. Keep up the great work mate, your subs are really growing now I see.
Brilliant work. Just goes to show what can be done with basic tools and ingenuity.
I your version of !CAD is using Stella as the packing case of choice again
😊 it's the perfect card of course
Morning Dave. You ok 👍🏻 That was absolutely amazing 🤩 I loved every minute and sad when it finished lol 😆
Thanks Stevie, more coming 😋
Incredible skills Dave it’s nice to see some proper fabrication going on I really enjoy these sort of vids nice work my good man 👌👍
Glad you enjoyed it 😊
awesome work dave i can not believe it looks so good by using basic tools can not wait to see the rest the sump coming togeter
Thanks Robert 😊😊
saved yourself a few hundred there dave! I always jigsaw on a thick piece of polystyrene, its keeps the noise down & can cut some really accurate shapes, I notice you have the pendulum on high, you don't need it at all on metal, also you can get some very tight curves if you grind a few mil off the back of the blade.
All good advice, thank you 😊
Great video Dave , l would say one of the best on you tube .
Wow! Thank you 😊
The wobbly end on a steel tape measure is there on purpose. It compensates for internal and external measurements. That’s a lesson I used to teach my apprentices on their first day on site. 45 years ago every new school leaver could use a tape and do simple maths in their head. From around 15 years ago we had to start from scratch and teach measuring and simple maths to prevent excessive wastage of materials. BTW I could still kneel down like that but I do t think I could stand up again on my own!!!
Thanks Tim, I did not know that!! Been a plumber for over 30yrs too 🤣. Never too old to learn something new, or in my case, I should have already known!
@@DavesGarageuk something else I have just remembered re tapes. When working with a helper make sure you check each others tapes side by side for accuracy. You would be surprised how often they are out.
Great work as always Dave. I'm always amazed by the different techniques you come up with for shaping
Thank you David 😊
Really nice job there Dave, may be worth keeping the formers for the strengthening lip at the end of vid and using them when installing sump, will spread the load on the gasket more evenly and stop any possible distortion and guarantee an oil tight joint??
Hi Dave, I'm still watching your sump fabrication, very nice job 👍.
I did a hybrid sump using a 1600 Kent sump and some inch wide strap for the mountings, it was quite a easy mod until I decided to make a windage tray and baffles !
Interesting 😊
Once again fantastic work ...have you everthought of using a oil temperature mockup in the sump...
I've done that with aircooled VW engines I've had, but not with a water cooled. I'll give it a thought though.
That looks like a lot of work but what a great finish you have have just as good if not better than a retro Ford item in my opinion
Thank you, I think Retroford would disagree 😉
great stuff dave,i have a pinto 2.0l to fit into a mk1,i've never made a sump and now i've seen you do it im gonna wave paying 600+ for an rs2000 sump and have a bash at it,so is this pretty much the same as it would be for the pinto,some just bash the hell out of the sump till it clears the crossmember and steering rack.
Have a go mate, nothing to loose really, just time in trying it out
Amazing work Dave it’s like going back to college listening to your advice and seeing your skills mate
Can’t wait for the next part. Are you going to use a 1.8 flywheel, there lighter than a 2L’s
Yep got one already 👍
Bloody awesome series you're doing. Any chance of doing a similar video on engine mounts (all the key angles and what not) if you haven't already?
I'm doing the same as you but can't put a motor in the car yet.
Thank you, I will be doing engine mounts, but won't be until I'm trial fitting the engine.
awesome job dave! greetings from finland with a question! do you or anyone in the comments know if this design fits the mk2 sierra?
I don't know, sorry, but the design is easy to change to suit your needs I guess?
@@DavesGarageuk yea thats true. thanks for the reply👍
I have no idea how the curved bit each end will be oil tight once fitted? I can see that the bolted sides will have a gasket between the two surfaces but the unbolted curved ends? (Excuse my ignorance, I’m electrical not mechanical!!)
Hi, thanks for your question, it'll be sealed with an RTV silicone, a lot of new vehicle sumps are now.
I must admit I was thinking about the swarf.....
😊
Loved that video Dave,looks just like the real thing.
😊😊
Nice work but not to throw stones in your gears you’ll going to hate the sheet metal pan. They all leak on the zetec, every one sooner or later.
Hi, if your comment on throwing stones into the gears, refers to the crud going into the block, don't worry, its a scrapper I use for mocking up. 😉
@@DavesGarageuk No not about that, but to dampen your spirits about the pan. Unfortunately all the sheetmetal pans tends to leak on the zetecs. The aluminum counterparts don't for some reason.
Could u make me one for a cvh
I hate the sump gaskets on them an would seal it instead
What is the engine in?
@DavesGarageuk it's in a escort rs turbo
@@danielbaker4820 can you ditch the sump gasket and use RTV sealant instead?
Hie whats the thickness of the metal sheet you used
1.2mm for this pal
@@DavesGarageuk l admire your work will have to follow throu and try to build my own gotta see how its going to come out
Why don't u fill it with white shirts to test it if its gonna leak that will
Show u without doing a rig
I've built the rig now, was simple enough as it happens. I have previously used diesel etc to test, but it didn't get right up into the corners.
Bit of a long slog videos over 20 minutes, the perfect length recommend by RUclips.
I'm happy with the longer vids, dave has an ASMR quality about him 😄
Watch it in three bites
I did intend to have the sump, pick up pipe and testing all.in one video, but it would have been way too long, so I've split it up. Thanks for your comment 😊
Does that mean I send you to sleep 🤣🤣
Dave ,a bit of advice,You need to have more content for your-videos more often than you do as you have the chance of making it really big ,invest more time to do it as I wish I had your chance
Thanks for the advice, I work full time, and have a busy private life, so can only do so much, I wish I could spend more time on it tbh.