I have an older Predetor identical to that one. It seems to have little or no compression. This is a great video as it shows me exactly how to access the valves.
I bought my Predator 2000 new in March. After following all the break in instructions and only running good gas I was disappointed when it wouldn't start. I was really scratching my head when I confirmed spark and fuel, but it still wouldn't fire. Thank you for posting this video it saved me a ton of "trial and error" trouble shooting!
Damnit. Not the problem. A couple notes. My 2000 has maybe 1000 hours. 4 years of hard use. My rockers were snug enough to move on to find the problem. The gaskets on both the air intake and the vavle cover are very brittle. I broke both quickly. Be vey careful. Good stuff man you gave me the inspiration to check under the cover.
@@small_engine_repair not yet. But since you asked I'll give it another go today. My next to do is swap the coil from a working machine. It's a crappy winter day and I need to do it. I'll let you know.
I had similar issue. Was hard to start and would surge up and down while running. Did the spark arrestor clean, and carb clean. Seemed to still surge, but would work. Finally wouldnt start and overload light would blink with nothing plugged in while pulling the starter rope. Seems my valves were too tight. Loosed both a bit and she runs. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the video. I got mine fixed. Had to adjust the choke. I'm not sure why it just started acting up during the cold weather when I had it running 3 months ago
I have a predator 2000 I changed the oil and the spark plug, drained the gas and put fresh gas in it and when I started it, it run really rough and flashed to overload with no load on it. It didn't do this before changing everything. I took it to a small engine place, he did tell me they don't work on electrical. On the note it said Predator side can call so and so, they don't work on things until the fall. When I tip it a little to the side fuel is coming out of carburetor. Do you have a video of something like this. I know this is a shot in the dark. Of course letting you know I really don't have a clue just trying to learn.
Is there a trick to getting the valve cover OUT? I pulled the rubber plug off that plastic frame strut, got the hose off the valve cover, and it still doesn't want to clear the frame and come out. Update: pulling the plastic strut and pushing the engine against mount slop gave enough clearance to rotate the valve cover clockwise, and weasel it out. 😊
I had trouble starting my predator but discovered it was because the choke wasn't closing all the way. The off, on, choke knob was loose. Problem solved after tightening the 10mm bolt!
Yes I was off grid at that point of my life and this generator was my fill in when solar panels were not changing batteries I’m out west Out here generator aren’t use as much as other places
@@Steve-xl2mn I think that there is some confusion here , when a rocker arm is pressed down that valve is ..." OPEN ".....the valve is being held open by the camshaft , pushrod , and rocker arm , as the cam, turns the rocker arm lifts , as it lifts the valve closes , ....SO to set the clearance .." lash " tuen the engine over untill a rocker arm is fully depressed ( that valve is now FULLY OPEN )....now adjust the other valve , the other valve is now fully closed , ....the rocker arm should be loose/rattle slightly , it is that valve that you set the clearance (lash ), .....on single cylinder four stroke engines it is not necessary to get the piston T.D.C. ...hope this helps
Interesting. You are not the first person to make this comment. I agree that as long as the valve is closed you can set the lash. I just learned that you always set the engine to TDC.
@@small_engine_repair there are two T.D.C.'s , ....the piston is at the top twice in the four stroke cycle , starting with it at the top on its firing stroke , the plug fires, the piston travels downwards ( both valves are closed ), as it reaches the bottom and starts to rise the exhaust valve opens, it stays open as the piston rises ( the piston forces the the exhaust gases out ) just as the piston is about to reach the top the exhaust valve closes and the piston is now at its second T.D.C., just as the piston starts to move downwards the inlet valve opens , it known as the " valve rock" T.D.C, because one valve closes, T.D.C the other valve opens , allowing fuel/ Airton be sacked into the cylinder as the piston reaches it lowest point the inlet valve closes and the piston travelling upwards compresses the fuel/ air mixture as it reaches the top we are back to where we started from , ...so setting the lash on T.D.C ( firing stroke ) would be fine , ...but to many people set it at T.D.C.....when the valves are rocking ,, and horrible things happen if they get it wrong
I have an older Predetor identical to that one. It seems to have little or no compression. This is a great video as it shows me exactly how to access the valves.
Glad it helped
Great job as always Robby ! Good call on checking the valve lash . Until your next one ,take care sir.
Thanks
Excellent video. Great explanation and repair. Going to get one of these generators this week. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Just for your information, the current Predator's have carbon monoxide detectors that are a real pain if you want to run it in a small enclosure..
Thanks, this is the first helpful video I've seen for troubleshooting these smaller generators!
Welcome
I bought my Predator 2000 new in March. After following all the break in instructions and only running good gas I was disappointed when it wouldn't start. I was really scratching my head when I confirmed spark and fuel, but it still wouldn't fire. Thank you for posting this video it saved me a ton of "trial and error" trouble shooting!
Glad it helped.
Damnit. Not the problem. A couple notes.
My 2000 has maybe 1000 hours. 4 years of hard use. My rockers were snug enough to move on to find the problem. The gaskets on both the air intake and the vavle cover are very brittle. I broke both quickly. Be vey careful.
Good stuff man you gave me the inspiration to check under the cover.
Did you get it running?
@@small_engine_repair not yet. But since you asked I'll give it another go today. My next to do is swap the coil from a working machine. It's a crappy winter day and I need to do it. I'll let you know.
I had similar issue. Was hard to start and would surge up and down while running. Did the spark arrestor clean, and carb clean. Seemed to still surge, but would work. Finally wouldnt start and overload light would blink with nothing plugged in while pulling the starter rope. Seems my valves were too tight. Loosed both a bit and she runs. Thanks for the video.
Glad you got it running.
Thank you for the video. I got mine fixed. Had to adjust the choke. I'm not sure why it just started acting up during the cold weather when I had it running 3 months ago
Glad it helped
We’re can I find the replacement parts for the same generator ? Push Rods, or the whole valve kit ?
I would just search online for them. Yes they can be impossible to find.
Valve lash every 300 hrs, oil every 100 hrs. I put an hour meter on mine so there is no guesswork.
Thank you for sharing that information.
Great video great job!
Thank you!
I have a predator 2000 I changed the oil and the spark plug, drained the gas and put fresh gas in it and when I started it, it run really rough and flashed to overload with no load on it. It didn't do this before changing everything. I took it to a small engine place, he did tell me they don't work on electrical. On the note it said Predator side can call so and so, they don't work on things until the fall. When I tip it a little to the side fuel is coming out of carburetor. Do you have a video of something like this. I know this is a shot in the dark. Of course letting you know I really don't have a clue just trying to learn.
Gas will come out when you tip it. Dont do that. Otherwise I am not sure how I can help.
Is there a trick to getting the valve cover OUT?
I pulled the rubber plug off that plastic frame strut, got the hose off the valve cover, and it still doesn't want to clear the frame and come out.
Update: pulling the plastic strut and pushing the engine against mount slop gave enough clearance to rotate the valve cover clockwise, and weasel it out. 😊
Glad you got it.
I had trouble starting my predator but discovered it was because the choke wasn't closing all the way. The off, on, choke knob was loose. Problem solved after tightening the 10mm bolt!
Glad you got it working.
Mine came loose as well once.
I have one of these
It quit working ( no spark and output was down to 1000 watts) at 30,000 hrs
Hopefully other people see this and comment as well. I wonder what the average life is for one of these.
Yes
I was off grid at that point of my life and this generator was my fill in when solar panels were not changing batteries
I’m out west
Out here generator aren’t use as much as other places
You didn't show how you got the hidden bolt off the valve cover.
Hidden? There are four.
Use a swivel on socket, for the upper left bolt.
I find it hard to believe that this is genuine , even if it is , there is no need to put the piston T.D.C. to set the valve clearance ( lash )
Champion recommends putting one valve fully closed, and setting the other. Repeat and get the other side.
@@Steve-xl2mn I think that there is some confusion here , when a rocker arm is pressed down that valve is ..." OPEN ".....the valve is being held open by the camshaft , pushrod , and rocker arm , as the cam, turns the rocker arm lifts , as it lifts the valve closes , ....SO to set the clearance .." lash " tuen the engine over untill a rocker arm is fully depressed ( that valve is now FULLY OPEN )....now adjust the other valve , the other valve is now fully closed , ....the rocker arm should be loose/rattle slightly , it is that valve that you set the clearance (lash ), .....on single cylinder four stroke engines it is not necessary to get the piston T.D.C. ...hope this helps
Interesting. You are not the first person to make this comment. I agree that as long as the valve is closed you can set the lash. I just learned that you always set the engine to TDC.
@@small_engine_repair there are two T.D.C.'s , ....the piston is at the top twice in the four stroke cycle , starting with it at the top on its firing stroke , the plug fires, the piston travels downwards ( both valves are closed ), as it reaches the bottom and starts to rise the exhaust valve opens, it stays open as the piston rises ( the piston forces the the exhaust gases out ) just as the piston is about to reach the top the exhaust valve closes and the piston is now at its second T.D.C., just as the piston starts to move downwards the inlet valve opens , it known as the " valve rock" T.D.C, because one valve closes, T.D.C the other valve opens , allowing fuel/ Airton be sacked into the cylinder as the piston reaches it lowest point the inlet valve closes and the piston travelling upwards compresses the fuel/ air mixture as it reaches the top we are back to where we started from , ...so setting the lash on T.D.C ( firing stroke ) would be fine , ...but to many people set it at T.D.C.....when the valves are rocking ,, and horrible things happen if they get it wrong
Pull my valve cover off had the same problem
Did you get it running?
Brah the low idle switch is on. It needs to be off to start.
I did not know that.
Good call bruh, but it will start tho.
The Predator will start with the switch in either position.
Id just get a new generator
Give the old one to James Condon when you do! 😄
Why do that if you can fix it?
Turn off the switch high rpm
Why?