YES!!! Another video from you guys!! I cant wait.. i.learn slot from you guys and I hear your one of the best! Please keep these builds of any kind comming. I appreciate what u guys do and the knowledge you share of doing things the right way!!
So glad to see this build. All the Jeeps out there these days are 4.0L. Commenting as I go. Customer just got a rock solid full rebuild. Worth every penny if you don't know what you're doing to build it yourself.
I’ve been a machinist in noco for the last 13 years and even to work part time over there looks like a blast. Y’all seem so relaxed. NOT a hint to come work.
Me Too! Love your videos, shame about the lost footage though. You guys have a good following, so please keep these videos coming. Not that keen on the real short stuff though.
awesome as always - will prob never shop at your store as im on the other side of the world. But my mental support is there. Wish I will ever get half your skills at machining!
Loved it! Brought back great memories when I owned a 69 rambler station wagon and had the same stock work done to the inline six motor. Made such a huge difference in performance. Thanks for the awesome content.
Nice! I just sold my 1969 rambler 440 4 door sedan with the 199 and 3 on the tree last year, I miss it, only had 16k miles but I wasn't driving it enough
Wow very cool... I have just removed my head to send out to get machined.. I noticed when you reinstall the head you have a guide pin. Where can i find this make sure of a good re alginment?
Great work! Now I am not a machinist, so I have a question. When you reinstall the valves, I see you carefully put a tiny amount of assembly lube in the channel where the retainer sits. That seems unnecessarily tedious, why don't you just have a little cap full of lube, say .25" deep and just dip the end of the valve in?
I wanted to be an auto technician so bad after high school that I went to my local Ford dealership and told them that I would sweep the floors or do anything if they’d train me to be a mechanic. They hired me on the spot. That was 30 years ago.
Yes, but it depends on a variety of factors. We don’t have them for every single engine. The plate for this engine is over $1000. For a stock rebuild, the benefits aren’t there. On the flip side, certain engines distort much worse than others, and even on stock rebuilds they MUST be honed with a plate.
He is testing the valves from the intake and exhaust port sides, under vacume. The valve stems ends are within that side of the valve sealing point. If they, some how, tested them from the combustion side of the valve, (under pressure), there would be no leakage issues of the stems.
Where are you guys at? I wish you could have done my last build. I always built with reliability and some performance in mind. So far, I've never had one blow up on me. But I'm done building cars. My last build was a '79 AMC/AMX with a Chevy 355/350 with a R700 backing it up. Can you say "Make it fit"? Seemed like everything was custom from mounts to driveshaft but it worked.
What kind of exhaust seats were those? They machined amazing! We typically use hardened SBI seats I believe they are a high chrome alloy and can be difficult to get a nice finish sometimes.
I note that all the press fittings were done by impact. Do you prefer impact vs a hydraulic or arbor press for a quality reason, or is it more about convenience/setup time?
I've also seen you guys struggle a little on previous videos with some broken fasteners, this video may provide some additional techniques (65ford) ruclips.net/video/-8N0y0jVAng/видео.html
You need to heat that head up before you press in anything. Once that engine gets hot, those seats can literally just pop out! Same with those guides, they can come out. Just ask dodge about dropped valve seats. Not a bad job at all, but you need to heat the head up before you press in anything.
I can see you think you know what you’re talking about, but you don’t. Heating the head for the install has nothing to do with whether or not the seats and guides will stay put during normal operation.
What’s the name of your machine shop? We’ve been in operation over 39 years. We have learned what works and what doesn’t. What is your background on the subject?
Good seat run out is nice, but it's WAY! over rated, pull the vacuum with the head assembled, then torqued to the block with no valve train and you'll see that it went to hell, then finish assembly and run the engine, if you check the seat seal at that point the vacuum will be better than if you put grease on them the first time.
YES!!! Another video from you guys!! I cant wait.. i.learn slot from you guys and I hear your one of the best! Please keep these builds of any kind comming. I appreciate what u guys do and the knowledge you share of doing things the right way!!
I learn slot from them too. Amazing
This is a cool engine to rebuild. Would love to see a late model Ford 4.9/300 rebuild from you guys. Thanks for sharing your experience.
So glad to see this build. All the Jeeps out there these days are 4.0L.
Commenting as I go. Customer just got a rock solid full rebuild. Worth every penny if you don't know what you're doing to build it yourself.
Excellent.
Thanks for sharing.
Great to see that you guys use a runout gauge. Thanks for sharing this video.
Super work
Good work
great job.
Beautiful work. As always.
I always enjoy the videos! Can’t wait for tour dad’s tractor to be finished!
Keep up the good work mate, love to see more videos. From Australia
Your videos are so nice. I lean something every time. More tractor engine videos?
More pls. Much more
Keep up the good work you're doing what I dream to do!
Very nice work, and very informative. Much appreciated!
GREAT VIDEO, AMAZING EDITING, IT'S AWESOME! KEEP EM COMING!!!
💪 💯
I love you videos keep it up. Would love to see bottom end stuff like crank shaft line hone talk through and bearing clearance.
Great content. Keep up the good work. Love from dallas
I’ve been a machinist in noco for the last 13 years and even to work part time over there looks like a blast. Y’all seem so relaxed. NOT a hint to come work.
Love your video's and this one is no exception. Do you ever dyno test run any of your rebuilds? Would love to see some of that action.
Thank you.
Unfortunately I do not have access to a dyno currently. That is a goal for some day though!
It was another great video!
Love the video. Thanks for sharing.
Me Too! Love your videos, shame about the lost footage though. You guys have a good following, so please keep these videos coming. Not that keen on the real short stuff though.
Always looking forward to your videos..
I live in So Cal and I'd send my stuff to Colorado...just like I'd send my Transmission to Amarillo.
Yes, Precision Transmissions is worth the effort too.
I’d like for these guys to do my AMC 304.
I wish we could do everyone’s engine! Unfortunately it’s just the two of us, and we can’t get to everyone 😭
Videos are interesting to watch.They do good work too!
I love this channel. Part of me thinks I missed a calling for a career in machining.
awesome as always - will prob never shop at your store as im on the other side of the world. But my mental support is there. Wish I will ever get half your skills at machining!
Would love to see some Subaru stuff. Great video as always.
Loved it! Brought back great memories when I owned a 69 rambler station wagon and had the same stock work done to the inline six motor. Made such a huge difference in performance. Thanks for the awesome content.
Nice! I just sold my 1969 rambler 440 4 door sedan with the 199 and 3 on the tree last year, I miss it, only had 16k miles but I wasn't driving it enough
Another excellent technological video.
One question...did you lap the valves?
notification squad, Have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥
Would be nice to have a machine shop here in Memphis that's as good as yaw.
Nice video as usual.
I imagined that all these press fit stuff needed heat/cooling to actually go together. But just ”dry driving” is enough?
Wow very cool... I have just removed my head to send out to get machined.. I noticed when you reinstall the head you have a guide pin. Where can i find this make sure of a good re alginment?
1:30 Hello friends, I have a little doubt:
What is the name of the tool used to lower the guide?
And thus be able to use the valve seals
Great work! Now I am not a machinist, so I have a question. When you reinstall the valves, I see you carefully put a tiny amount of assembly lube in the channel where the retainer sits. That seems unnecessarily tedious, why don't you just have a little cap full of lube, say .25" deep and just dip the end of the valve in?
Man.. if I was a young teenager, I would beg to work in a shop like this. I’ll work for free until I learn enough to be useful.
I wanted to be an auto technician so bad after high school that I went to my local Ford dealership and told them that I would sweep the floors or do anything if they’d train me to be a mechanic. They hired me on the spot. That was 30 years ago.
Awesome video, but your website has zero parts for the 258.
👍
Just discovered your channel, its great! I find it therapeutic to watch. I had a question, do you guys ever use honing plates?
Yes, but it depends on a variety of factors. We don’t have them for every single engine. The plate for this engine is over $1000. For a stock rebuild, the benefits aren’t there. On the flip side, certain engines distort much worse than others, and even on stock rebuilds they MUST be honed with a plate.
7:02 if the valves are both closed then why would air leak past the stem? Am I missing something?
He is testing the valves from the intake and exhaust port sides, under vacume. The valve stems ends are within that side of the valve sealing point.
If they, some how, tested them from the combustion side of the valve, (under pressure), there would be no leakage issues of the stems.
Where are you guys at? I wish you could have done my last build. I always built with reliability and some performance in mind. So far, I've never had one blow up on me. But I'm done building cars. My last build was a '79 AMC/AMX with a Chevy 355/350 with a R700 backing it up. Can you say "Make it fit"? Seemed like everything was custom from mounts to driveshaft but it worked.
what machine is that your doing all the guide work on?
I do my guide work on our Peterson TCM-25
@@JAMSIONLINE Nice! Is there a reason you do that on the peterson and then switch to the serdi? or just personnel preference?
What kind of exhaust seats were those? They machined amazing! We typically use hardened SBI seats I believe they are a high chrome alloy and can be difficult to get a nice finish sometimes.
how would you repair an exhaust bolt hole that had stripped?
helicoil
KILLLA💪😎
lol i put Vortec valves in my 258= hot rod stuff
This comment section is like the peanut gallery, I wouldn’t pay too much attention to it
I guess I’m talking about the “experts”, the complainers. 😂
I have this same engine, I know there are many factors to consider but what’s a ballpark price range for this rebuild?
I would like to rebuilt my 1974 J10 258 engine. Where are you located?
I note that all the press fittings were done by impact. Do you prefer impact vs a hydraulic or arbor press for a quality reason, or is it more about convenience/setup time?
I've also seen you guys struggle a little on previous videos with some broken fasteners, this video may provide some additional techniques (65ford) ruclips.net/video/-8N0y0jVAng/видео.html
AMC actually stands for Alcoholics Making Cars. I knew many of the employees at the Kenosha plant, all drunks lol
Most UAW plants are filled with workers that couldn’t pass a piss test if their lives depended on it.
🤣 Never thought of that!!😂 I've had 3 and sometimes the fit and finish was hinky. But overall? Reliable cars.
You think 6-10s run-out is really nice?
What kinda runout do your seats have?
Tell us, worm, what do you know about it?
@@SicarioDistrepo Seriously? I'm looking at the film of your scrawny little bird body and you're calling me worm?
I thought I was talking to an adult.
You need to heat that head up before you press in anything. Once that engine gets hot, those seats can literally just pop out! Same with those guides, they can come out. Just ask dodge about dropped valve seats. Not a bad job at all, but you need to heat the head up before you press in anything.
I can see you think you know what you’re talking about, but you don’t.
Heating the head for the install has nothing to do with whether or not the seats and guides will stay put during normal operation.
@@JAMSIONLINE And I see you lack crucial, long-term experience. You'll learn, in time, from the failures.
What’s the name of your machine shop?
We’ve been in operation over 39 years. We have learned what works and what doesn’t.
What is your background on the subject?
Good seat run out is nice, but it's WAY! over rated, pull the vacuum with the head assembled, then torqued to the block with no valve train and you'll see that it went to hell, then finish assembly and run the engine, if you check the seat seal at that point the vacuum will be better than if you put grease on them the first time.
This isn't live .
Loving this channel mate.
🇦🇺🦘 All the way from Hobart, Tasmania, Australia 🇦🇺🦘
Great video! Those motors are bulletproof!
Thanks for sharing 👍